Repair and maintenance of geysers at home. Repairing a geyser with your own hands: fixing problems in the water heater at home Do-it-yourself repair of a dion geyser

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Despite the widest range of electrical heating appliances on the market, the gas water heater still remains one of the most popular means of heating a home and providing it with hot water. This is enough economical option, since it allows you to simultaneously provide several water collection points in the house. Another advantage geysers we can assume that they allow the use of hot water, practically unlimited, without any restrictions.

Essential elements

The structure of a gas water heater looks something like this.

  • Water flow regulator.
  • Connection to the chimney.
  • Power control.
  • Heat exchanger.
  • Water node.
  • Hood for hood.
  • Switch.
  • Back panel.
  • Gas valve consisting of membranes.
  • Ignition.
  • Gas unit.

Two pipes are connected to the gas water heater. The first of them is intended for supplying gas, the second is for supplying cold water. In addition, there is a pair of burners located below, one auxiliary, one main.

Important! The design of a gas water heater can be different, depending on the ignition method - it (ignition) can be electronic, manual, or using a piezoelectric element.

How does a gas water heater work?

Such devices are intended to provide hot water to domestic and industrial facilities. The essence of their work is quite simple: cold water from the pipeline enters the heat exchanger of the column, where it is heated by burners (they are located under the heat exchanger). As you know, fire needs oxygen, so to prevent the burners from going out, the column is connected to the ventilation system of the house/apartment. The exhaust gas is eliminated through a special chimney, which is combined exclusively with a gas water heater.

What you should pay attention to when choosing a water heater

All of the described types of speakers function slightly differently.

So, if the device is turned on manually, that is, the gas has to be ignited with matches, the burner will ignite when you turn the fuel supply valve. Although it is worth noting that similar designs are already outdated a long time ago. Modern designs equipped with either electronic ignition or a piezoelectric element.

New models are activated with one click of a button located on the front panel of the device. Piezo ignition creates a spark that ignites the igniter. In the future, everything happens automatically - the tap opens, the water heater lights up, and hot water begins to flow.

If the geyser is ignited electronically, then it is perhaps the most reliable and durable device. The system is turned on by a pair of batteries that supply the charge necessary to produce a spark. No buttons, no matches, the only thing you need to do to turn it on is open the tap. In most cases, batteries last a very long time, since the energy required to charge is minimal.

Causes of problems and DIY repairs

The use of geysers, however, like any other equipment, is accompanied by malfunctions, frequent or rare. At the same time, there are some malfunctions that can only be eliminated by specialists who have the necessary knowledge and permission to do so. But there are also some that can be easily eliminated with your own hands, so we will consider them.

Video - sensor malfunction

Video - repair of a Chinese gas water heater

Important! You can check the draft of a chimney in the old “old-fashioned” way: bring a lit match to it. If the fire on the match deviates in the direction of the chimney, then everything is fine with it. If this does not happen, then it needs complete cleaning.

It is for this reason that the gas water heater should be inspected annually - this is the only way it will work correctly.

Features of operation

Modern gas water heaters are small in size and compact, so they can be placed in almost any convenient location. Their service life depends largely on how correctly they are installed and used in the future.

As you know, the design of the gas water heater is such that it has to work with quite dangerous fuel. For this reason, during installation, make sure that, God forbid, there is no gas leak. If you cannot, for one reason or another, take care of this, or, worse, cannot eliminate all leaks, then further operation will turn into a dangerous activity, which sooner or later may lead to an explosion.

For this reason, it is strictly not recommended to install a gas water heater with your own hands. It is better for professionals who have all the necessary skills, experience, and appropriate equipment to do this.

So, for installation you need the following tools:

  1. dowels;
  2. magnetic and salt filter;
  3. drill;
  4. required number of taps;
  5. pipeline;
  6. chimney corrugation;
  7. gas pipe;
  8. Mayevsky valve;
  9. actually, the column itself.

The device is installed only in the kitchen and only on a wall that is made of fire-resistant material. The distance from the column to the wall surface should be at least 2 centimeters; if it’s larger, then that’s even better. An asbestos sheet should also be laid here, which should have a thickness of at least 0.3 centimeters.

Important! The apartment/house must have a chimney that will remove gas combustion products. It will consist not only of vertical, but also of horizontal sections, and on them it must go at a slope (approximately 0.2 centimeters per linear meter).

To prevent the pipeline from accidentally bursting, the geyser should be installed only when the water is completely drained from the system.

But installation, as we have already said, is not the most important thing. It is also important that the device is used correctly, for which you should follow certain rules operation. If you don’t do this, then even the most expensive and high-quality model will soon break down. So we want to prevent that from happening. Firstly, we should not heat the water to a temperature that would exceed 60 degrees. The fact is that too high a temperature will lead to the formation of salt scale on the walls of the heat exchanger. The result is more frequent cleaning or, worse, replacement of the heat exchanger.

In addition, we can damage the design of the heat exchanger by using too hard water. To avoid this, soften the water using special means, or install a special filter in the system.

The right choice of geysers

If you decide to purchase a geyser device, then pay attention, first of all, to the power of the model you choose. It should be enough to provide all members of your family with hot water. The power of almost all modern models fits into the range from 3 to 60 kilowatts.

Important! The more powerful the gas water heater, the larger volume of water it will be able to heat over a certain period of time.

The average “cell of society”, consisting of four people, needs a device whose power averages 16-24 kilowatts. There is more than enough for the dishes to be washed and everyone to take a shower. Even if the device has a low power of 16 kilowatts, it will be able to produce 10 liters hot water, which is enough to be able to bathe and wash dishes at the same time. Of course, if you can, then buy a column with a power of 24 kilowatts, as it can provide 24 liters of heated water.

In addition, it is advisable to take into account the water temperature that a particular model can provide. To designate it, the Latin letters DT are used. For example, if water already enters the heat exchanger at a temperature of 12 degrees, then it will heat up to 24 degrees. therefore, it can be used even without prior dilution.

Today there are models that can heat water even up to 50 degrees. Their power, as well as their cost, is an order of magnitude higher than conventional models. For this reason, if several plumbing elements are simultaneously connected to the system, then it is better to purchase a more powerful column so that it can provide them all with hot water at the same time.

Also, when buying a gas water heater, check whether it is equipped with safety sensors. They come in the following types:

  • overheating;
  • burner extinction;
  • combustion;
  • low blood pressure;
  • temperature;
  • sudden interruption of water supply.

And remember: geysers are only allowed to be installed in the kitchen! Installing a geyser in the bathroom is prohibited! Unless it (the bathroom) meets all existing requirements.

As a conclusion

So, we have looked at what a geyser is, what its features are, what malfunctions may arise during operation and how to repair them later. Let us only note that similar devices– extremely economical, especially in light of ever-increasing utility tariffs. And lastly: do not forget that preventative maintenance of the column’s performance should be carried out annually.

Professional experts say that gas equipment- This is potentially dangerous equipment, so it must be repaired and maintained by experts. You can figure out which parts are broken on your own, and this will help you quickly restore the functionality of your gas equipment; some problems can be easily fixed with your own hands.

Malfunctions that do not affect the operating principle of the gas water heater can be repaired by home craftsmen themselves. It is important to know the list and description of the most common breakdowns and follow the recommendations from the manufacturer.

Geyser does not light up

When technical device refuses to ignite, there may be several reasons.

Broken igniter. When the igniter is faulty, it cannot burn; in this case, you need to contact the gas service. A qualified specialist will replace faulty element, it is not recommended to replace it yourself - this is a real danger.

Since sooner or later there will definitely come a time when a home hot water heater begins to act up or refuse to work altogether, it would not hurt for users to know what to do in this or that case. Depending on the malfunction, you can carry out some repairs of geysers yourself or call a specialist. The last action is most preferable, since the heater belongs to gas-using installations, and therefore is a source of increased danger. This article will outline what problems you can fix yourself and how to do it correctly.

Speaker malfunctions

Let’s immediately make a reservation that we will consider the problems of flow-through heaters with an open combustion chamber, of which there are a great many installed in apartments and houses. We will bypass the repair of fully automated turbocharged dispensers with power supply from the mains and ignition from a hydrogen generator. These devices are quite complex and intervention in their design by an ignorant person is contraindicated. Troubleshooting of supercharging units should be carried out by service or gas services.

The list of malfunctions inherent in geysers after several years of operation is as follows:

  • smell of gas;
  • problems with ignition and starting of the main burner;
  • turning off the heater during operation;
  • various leaks.

If you smell gas, whether constantly or periodically, you must immediately turn off the appropriate tap, open the windows and call the emergency service. Explain to the dispatcher the nature of the problem, and he will make a decision - to urgently send a team to your home or simply send a technician on a first-come, first-served basis. There are no other options; fixing methane leaks on your own is strictly prohibited.

Problems with ignition

There are two types of ignition systems for atmospheric heaters; we will analyze them separately:

  • manual, with a spark from a piezoelectric element;
  • automatic, battery powered.

For reference. The most modern models of dispensers are ignited automatically from the energy generated by a hydrogenerator. Everything here is relatively simple: if the ignition does not work, then the reason for this is - weak pressure in the water supply, or the generator itself has failed.

At manual way ignition, sometimes there is a malfunction of the geyser such as failure of the thermocouple. Then, when the regulator or button is released during ignition, the wick that was just burning goes out again. The fact is that the temperature-sensitive element must heat up from the igniter while you hold the handle and apply current to solenoid valve. The latter will hold the mechanism for you when you release it. If this does not happen, then the contact in the circuit is broken or the thermocouple must be replaced. To perform this operation, it is better to invite a specialist.

As for automatic ignition systems, malfunctions of geysers during the ignition process are not limited to low batteries, as is written on many Internet resources. Moreover, any more or less modern model heater, even Russian production, equipped with an electronic low battery indicator. So the user knows when it is time to change them.

The device will not even begin the process of igniting the igniter until the hot water tap opens and the required pressure appears in the network. When there is not enough of it, the column will not show any signs of life. The same thing will happen if there is insufficient gas pressure or after a shutdown as a result of the draft sensor being triggered (until it cools down). It is better for a specialist from the relevant service to deal with poor gas pressure; you will not be able to do this yourself.

Since we are considering internal malfunctions of the column, we can name a clogged mesh at the entrance to the water unit as the culprit of low water pressure. If the battery charge is normal, the water and gas pressure is sufficient, and the heater makes clicking sounds. spark discharge, but things don’t go any further, then move on to the next section.

The main burner does not start

One of the main devices guarding the safety of the unit is the water unit (in simple terms - “frog”). If there is sufficient water pressure, the frog presses with its rod actuating mechanism gas valve and it supplies fuel to the main burner (in conventional columns). In automatic heaters, the water unit allows access of fuel to the igniter, and the supply of gas to the main nozzles is already a function of the gas unit.

When the water unit is faulty, fuel will not be supplied to the burner, and in the case of automatic heaters, to the igniter. It happens that when the hot water valve is opened to maximum, the frog still works, but this only indicates the presence of small cracks in the working diaphragm. You can bring the device back to life with your own hands; to do this, you need to purchase a repair kit and change the membrane, which will be discussed below.

There are often situations in which the wick ignites, but burns poorly and weakly. If you look closely, you will notice that the color of the fire is yellow rather than blue. When fuel is supplied to the main burner, popping noises are heard due to the fact that it does not flare up immediately and has time to fill the combustion chamber. Here, to repair the column, you need to clean the tube and igniter nozzle. The latter in many models can be easily removed and cleaned, as shown in the video:

Important! You cannot insert steel wire into it to clean the wick. It is necessary to use only thread and thin wooden stick, moistened with kerosene.

Burner switches off during operation

A malfunction of the same water unit can also lead to a cessation of gas supply during the combustion process. With high pressure, a frog with a worn membrane can still cope somehow, but if you open cold water, the pressure drops and the gas water heater goes out. The same consequences occur when the traction sensor fails. The temperature-sensitive element is designed to break the electrical circuit when its surface reaches a certain temperature. The sensor is installed near the exit flue gases and connected to the solenoid valve by wires.

As soon as the draft in the chimney disappears, the temperature of the flue before leaving the duct will increase sharply, the sensor will heat up and break the circuit. The electric valve, in turn, will shut off the fuel supply. The described element does not last forever, sometimes it also needs to be changed. It’s easy to check the functionality of the part: you need to unscrew it from the body and, without disconnecting the wires, hang it outside. Stable operation of the burner indicates that the sensor is working, and the reason lies in the chimney pipe, where for some reason the draft has disappeared.

Deterioration in draft may occur when the fins of the heat exchanger are clogged with soot, and water pressure can drop if its tubes are covered from the inside with a thick layer of scale. The heat exchanger must be periodically cleaned and washed.

In addition to the water unit and the draft sensor, popping noises and unstable operation of the burner can be caused by a malfunction of the temperature sensor, and it cannot be repaired, only replaced. True, it is difficult to detect a malfunction in this case. We will advise you to contact a specialist in a situation where the frog and traction sensor are fully operational, and the symptoms do not disappear.

Water leaks

Inside the flow-through heater, water tubes are connected to various components using union nuts and rubber O-rings. Homeowners who have not maintained their units for years may find water dripping under the unit. If this is discovered, then repairing the gas water heater consists of checking all connections and replacing the seals.

There are other places where water can leak, for example, through the operating rod of the water unit. This suggests that, at a minimum, the seal on the frog rod needs to be replaced, which will require its removal and disassembly. In models equipped with a safety valve, the latter may also leak, especially if it has been released several times. Finally, the most unpleasant situation is a damaged heat exchanger in which a fistula has formed. Buying a new one is very expensive; it’s easier to repair the old one, which is discussed in the next section.

Heat exchanger repair

Important! Do not forget to shut off the gas line during any repair work!

It is quite possible to repair a crack or fistula in the heat exchanger yourself when the damage to the tube is located with front side or from the side. Otherwise, the part will have to be removed, which will require disassembling almost the entire column. Problems with soldering the heat exchanger, when the leak is in the rear part or between the fins of the radiator, should be entrusted to a technician from the service center. To complete the work you will need:

  • powerful soldering iron (at least 100 W);
  • fine sandpaper;
  • white spirit or other solvent;
  • solder and rosin.

To repair a geyser heat exchanger, you must first drain the water from it. To do this, close the common valve, open the nearest hot water tap and slightly unscrew the union nut at the entrance to the water unit. When the water has escaped, the nut is completely unscrewed and the faucet on the mixer remains open.

The next step is to thoroughly clean the damaged area. sandpaper until no oxide film remains. Then, using a rag moistened with white spirit, the area is degreased. Using rosin as a flux, the fistula is tinned with solder so that its layer is smooth and even. It is necessary to ensure that the solder on the copper surface is not loose, this means that the area is not heated enough. The final stage is building up the tin layer to a thickness of 1-2 mm.

After soldering is completed, open the common valve and inspect the repair site for leaks. If everything is in order, close the mixer tap and test the column in operating mode.

A self-repaired heat exchanger will still serve for some time, since the environment in it does not heat up above 100 ºС, and the soldering temperature is 200 ºС.

How to replace the membrane in a geyser

As mentioned above, to carry out an inspection of the water unit, you will need a repair kit designed for this heater model. As a rule, it includes a membrane, a spring and a set of seals. The tool you will need is an open-end wrench and a regular screwdriver. Before starting work, you need to drain the water from the frog, as was described in the case of the heat exchanger.

Now you need to remove the water unit itself. The nut at the water inlet has already been unscrewed, all that remains is to unscrew the second one and disconnect the frog from the gas valve. The type of connection depends on the model and manufacturer of the unit; the tool necessary for this purpose must be prepared in advance. Then the screws connecting the two halves of the assembly are unscrewed, and the membrane in the gas column is replaced. It is important to install the diaphragm correctly; its position is best remembered during disassembly.

Before installing a new membrane, you should clean the rod (if there is no new one in the repair kit) and replace all o-rings. When the operation is completed, the parts are connected to each other and fastened with screws. They must be tightened in a star pattern, where one screw is followed by the opposite one, and so on. Starting water and carrying out tests are described in the previous section. Details of the process are shown in the video:

Conclusion

It is possible to repair the column yourself if you correctly identify the fault and make sure that you can do it. The types of work described in the article are available to many users, but if you are unsure of success, then it is better to simply invite a specialist and you will sleep easier.

From the author: Hello, dear readers! Despite the popularity electric water heaters, gas equipment occupies a considerable niche. It is highly efficient, economical and has many other advantages. Of course, like any other equipment, such a heater requires regular maintenance, and sometimes minor repairs, which can be done at home.

In order for you to be able to carry out these operations, you need to know how to disassemble a gas water heater. Today this is exactly what we will talk about. In addition to the disassembly process, you will also learn about methods for descaling the heat exchanger, as well as some repair work.

Regarding the last point, it is worth saying the following right away. Not every repair procedure can be done at home. Blue fuel is a flammable and explosive substance, therefore, if there is even the slightest likelihood of such consequences occurring, you are strictly prohibited from fixing the problems yourself. Moreover, this is not a theoretical ban, but a very official one.

There are several types of problems that can only be resolved by specialists:

  • igniter malfunction- it needs to be replaced;
  • When the speaker is operating, popping noises are heard- this indicates too high or too low pressure when supplying gas; adjustment of the column is necessary;
  • When the burner is running, the flame is yellow, not blue- most likely, the problem is a clogged element;
  • When you turn on the equipment you smell gas.

Since in all four cases we are talking about a malfunction of the elements responsible for the supply and combustion of gas, only specialists from the relevant service should deal with the issue.

It is worth mentioning separately about the fourth case. If you smell gas when you turn on or operate the column, you need to take several actions immediately.

  1. Turn off the equipment.
  2. Close the shut-off valve on the gas supply pipe.
  3. Ensure an intensive level of air exchange in the room - in other words, open the windows for ventilation.
  4. Call the emergency gas service and outline the problem.

Apart from turning off the dispenser and turning off the gas, you cannot do anything else with this equipment until the problem is fixed by specialists. Safety is the most important thing you should remember in this situation.

Well, we've sorted out the prohibitions. Let's now move on to what you can do yourself if your speaker is acting up and doesn't want to work properly.

Equipment disassembly

Before you begin disassembling the equipment, you need to do three things:

  • shut off the water supply;
  • shut off the gas supply;
  • remove the speaker from the wall.

The first two operations are done using shut-off valves installed on the corresponding pipes. As for removal from the wall, there are options. If you just need to carry out a routine inspection of the inside of the device, then the column can be left in place. If any repair work or cleaning is required, it is better to remove the device. As a rule, it is fixed on the wall using special elements and fasteners. To remove, you only need a screwdriver.

Before removing the speaker from its rightful place, be sure to disconnect it from all communications. First, open the “hot” tap at the nearest water tap and drain the remaining water in the heat exchanger. Then close this faucet. Disconnect water pipes, then gas. Don't forget about the chimney pipe.

  1. Removing the handles. We are talking about regulators that are located on the main panel of the device. They are installed on the same principle as the handles on a regular stove. You can remove them either by simply pulling them towards you, or by prying them with a long flat screwdriver and, again, pulling.
  2. Removing the casing. The front panel is usually secured with screws. Their location depends on the specific speaker model - they can be at the top and bottom, or on the rear panel. In any case, they need to be found and unscrewed. After this you can remove the front panel. Sometimes it is additionally secured with hooks. In this case, you need to lift the lid a little and only then pull it towards you. Do not make sudden movements, as the control panel may internal elements The speakers are attached with wires. They need to be disconnected and only then completely remove the casing.
  3. Removing the heat exchanger. Typically, it is attached to the fume hood and to gas burner using screws. They need to be unscrewed and pulled out, and then the element itself must be removed, being careful not to damage the wires and contacts. Detailed description You can watch the video of removing the heat exchanger:

For all these operations you only need a set of screwdrivers. Be careful: place all removed screws in some container so that they do not get lost later. When it comes to removing the heat exchanger, we recommend photographing the location of the structural elements before each subsequent step. This way you can later easily restore their original position and connect everything correctly.

After the equipment is completely disassembled, you can begin preventive or repair procedures.

Removing scale from the heat exchanger

Scale is very common problem any water heating equipment. It is formed as a result of the interaction of salts contained in water with high temperatures. Accordingly, its main concentration falls on those elements that are simultaneously in contact with both heat and liquid. IN in this case, this is a heat exchanger.

Scale has a rather negative impact for equipment. At a minimum, it clogs the tubes, making them smaller throughput. Because of this, the water circulates worse, and even heats up poorly in the process.

You can determine whether there is a problem even before you disassemble the column and look inside the heat exchanger. Symptoms may include:

  • hot water from the mixer runs much worse than cold water;
  • the gas in the water heater goes out almost immediately after ignition;
  • the column does not turn on;
  • The water began to heat up worse than before.

Fortunately, you can deal with scale yourself, and it will not require any major costs. You only need a certain amount of time, a large basin, a hose, lemon acid and warm water. Just in case, also stock up on a rag - a little liquid may spill on the floor during the process.

  1. Prepare a cleaning solution. To do this, 100 g of citric acid must be diluted in 1 liter warm water. If there is a lot of scale, then it is better to use more radical means. In shops household chemicals various are sold chemical compositions designed specifically to remove such deposits. Of course, this will cost more than citric acid, but this product also works more effectively. If both options are not suitable for you for some reason, you can try a not too concentrated solution of vinegar - you should use the table variety for it, not the essence. In extreme cases, a soda like Coca-Cola or Sprite can pass for a cleaning agent. They contain orthophosphoric acid, which plays the role of a solvent. But use this method at your own peril and risk, since, to put it mildly, it is not recommended.
  2. Place the heat exchanger in a large basin. Pour the prepared solution into the tubes until they are completely filled. To make it more convenient, use a rubber enema bulb or something similar.
  3. If you used vinegar or lemon solution, then the heat exchanger should lie in a flooded state for 15 minutes. If you used store-bought chemicals, the soaking time is indicated on the package.
  4. After the soaking has taken effect, it is necessary to drain the solution and rinse the heat exchanger. For this you will need a hose. Lower one end of it into the nearest sink, and attach the other to the heat exchanger, which must be connected to the cold water supply pipe. Then open the shut-off valve on it. A stream of water will wash away all the solution, draining through the hose into the sink. Do the flushing for a longer period of time so that all the aggressive composition leaves the walls of the heat exchanger. Otherwise, exposure to substances will continue, which may lead to damage to the metal.

After washing, carry out visual inspection heat exchanger tubes. If the walls are clean, great, you can assemble the column to its original state. If there is some scale left in the tubes, then repeat the procedure from the very beginning.

Repair work

Now let's move on to repair work, which you can implement yourself. We remind you once again that some problems can only be fixed by specialists from the gas service. Do not ignore this warning, as this is primarily about your safety.

So let's look at what you can do if the column is:

  • does not ignite;
  • constantly fades;
  • does not heat well;
  • produces a stream of water with low pressure.

Burner does not light

The first thing you should do if such a problem occurs is to check the condition of the igniter. If it is not working, contact your gas service to have the element cleaned or replaced. If everything is in order with the igniter, then another cause of the problem may be the lack of a spark. For example, electronically controlled speakers usually produce it only if there is a power source, which is batteries. for new ones - most often, such a simple action leads to success.

Now let's move on to more complicated reasons. For example, the column may not ignite if there is no normal draft in the chimney. In this case, the sensor that monitors this factor will simply not allow the elements responsible for the fire to work. And he will do the right thing, because without recusal carbon monoxide using a speaker is deadly.

Diagnosing this problem is simple. Unfasten the pipe connecting the column pipe and the ventilation outlet. Then bring several long strips of paper to the latter. The test must be carried out when open window. If the paper is pulled into the channel, then everything is fine. If not, then there is a clear problem with traction.

There are two ways to solve this. The first is to clean the canal yourself. This is done strictly from the apartment side. To work, you will need a long metal brush. Use it to scrape off soot, cobwebs and other deposits from the canal walls. Then clean up the whole thing using a regular vacuum cleaner.

After this operation, check the traction again. If the situation has not changed, then this usually indicates the presence of a blockage somewhere deep in the channel. You can’t do anything about this on your own, so your path lies in an organization that provides home maintenance. Write a request for cleaning there ventilation system, after which a specialist will come and do everything.

The last reason for the lack of normal ignition of the column may be deformation of the membrane, which is located in the water unit. Regardless of the quality and cost of water heating equipment, this element wears out over time. It can serve for at most seven years. The result of deformation is a decrease in sensitivity - the membrane simply does not respond to increased water flow, so the signal for ignition is not given.

To confirm this assumption, open the tap on the mixer so that the water flow is as powerful as possible. If at the same time the column lights up, but does not at lower pressure, then the reason is almost 100% in the membrane.

To get to this element, you need to unscrew two nuts from the water unit, as well as three screws with which it is fixed in the gas unit. Then separate the knot into two halves. Inside you will see a rubber membrane. Ideally, it should be flat. If any deformation is observed, the element must be replaced. When you purchase a new membrane, opt for a silicone one - it will last much longer and more reliably than one made from ordinary rubber.

Since you have already climbed inside the water unit, then at the same time check the condition of the filter - as they say, so as not to get up twice. If the mesh is clogged with dirt, disconnect it and either wash it or replace it with a new one. Then install all the elements in place and reassemble the unit by performing the steps described above in reverse order.

The burner flame constantly goes out

As a rule, burner extinguishing is of protective origin. This is influenced by a sensor that monitors the heating level of the column. If the temperature begins to exceed the permissible value, the protection is activated and the burner turns off.

Normally, this does not happen often. But there are malfunctions in the operation of the equipment, as a result of which attenuation begins to occur constantly. Naturally, it is simply impossible to use the column in such cases. There are two options for how a malfunction of the temperature sensor manifests itself:

  • the burner goes out after a while start of work, then the column cannot be started for about half an hour. After this period, it starts working again, after which everything repeats. This problem is caused by the excessive sensitivity of the temperature sensor. That is, the protective element reacts even to temperatures that are not dangerous for the equipment. As a rule, this malfunction is a consequence of a defect in production;
  • The burner behaves unpredictably. It can spontaneously go out at any time, or even not ignite at all in the first place. The reason is usually as follows. The temperature sensor wire has insulating material. If it wears out, then chaotic short circuits to the housing begin to occur. Reacts to this safety valve, which turns off the burner.

In this case, the gas service will not be able to help with the repairs, but you are unlikely to be able to do it yourself. Of course, if you have experience similar works, then this is not a problem - just replace the sensor with a new one. But if you lack the appropriate skills, it is better to contact service center without trying to fix the problem yourself.

This is especially true in situations where the equipment is still on warranty service. If you try to fix it yourself and you fail, then even under warranty you will not be able to restore the speaker’s functionality, since there will be interference from outside. Therefore, if the service period has not yet expired, then it is better to immediately send the column to repair specialists.

Poor water heating

There may be two reasons for this phenomenon. The first is burner clogging, as mentioned above. In this case, the flame turns yellow and not blue, as it should be. You cannot remove the blockage yourself, since this falls under the competence of the gas service.

The second reason is the initially incorrect selection of equipment. If the speaker has less power than is necessary for your family, then the result will be obvious. For example, you purchased a device designed for two water points, but in fact it works for three. It is clear that there is simply not enough water for such a volume of water.

There are two ways to solve this problem. Or buy a more powerful speaker that will suit your family's needs. Or hold a meeting of household members, at which you decide that only two water points can be used at the same time, and not three or more.

Poor water pressure

Too little water pressure is usually associated with the heat exchanger being clogged with scale. Its throughput capacity becomes much smaller, and therefore the jet produced is thinner. How you can get rid of scale yourself has already been discussed above. Moreover, it is advisable to carry out this procedure not when the column has already begun to produce a pathetic trickle instead of the normal pressure, but preventively - that is, regularly.

There are especially advanced cases when the heat exchanger tubes are almost completely clogged, and scale cannot be removed. In addition, the presence of a thick stuck layer often affects the condition of the walls. In such a situation, it is better not to bother with cleaning, but to replace the heat exchanger. In this regard, it is advisable to contact specialists who have experience in such work.

Dear friends, now it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, diagnose and fix the existing problem. When deciding on necessary work Remember that the main thing in this case is safety. Therefore, if you have any doubts, it is better to contact specialists. Good luck!

Let’s say right away that repairing a geyser, like any other gas equipment, is a matter exclusively for professionals. But, although repairing speakers with your own hands is not allowed, knowledge is never superfluous. The ability to determine on your own what exactly is broken, what this breakdown threatens, and what the repair could cost will not hurt anyone. What kind of breakdowns of geysers happen, and what “symptoms” are they accompanied by?

How does a gas water heater work?

To begin with, before getting acquainted with the basics of fault diagnosis, it is useful to find out how the gas water heater is designed; repairs will largely depend on the device. We will not delve into the intricacies of the design of many speaker models; we will limit ourselves to just getting acquainted with the general principles.

Centralized hot water supply appeared relatively recently by historical standards. The issue of heating water at home has been resolved different ways, but the most common one we had was a storage solid fuel heater - the so-called titanium. Titanium was heated with coal, less often with wood or fuel oil. The water in the boiler had to be heated in advance. So it took at least an hour to take a bath. Of course, using such a device was very inconvenient. The problem of quickly heating water was solved in geysers.

The operation of the column is accompanied by popping noises

Possible reasons are as follows:

      • The gas pressure is too strong, the burner ignites too actively, causing the flame to fail.
      • The gas pressure is too weak, air gets inside the burner, which is accompanied by a micro-explosion.

The burner needs cleaning and adjustment. In principle, nothing complicated, but you don’t need to take on this work yourself; repairs to the geyser should be carried out by a specialist.

Low water temperature

Insufficient water heating may be due to low power of the column. Do not open the hot tap in the bathtub, sink and kitchen at the same time, or buy a more powerful unit.

Another possible reason the burner may be clogged, as indicated by yellow flame. Call a gas technician, a specialist will solve this problem in an hour.

When you turn on the speaker you smell gas

This is already serious and threatens with the most dire consequences. Immediately turn off the column, turn off the gas supply valve, ensure constant ventilation in the room, call the emergency service (104) and wait for the brigade to arrive.

In conclusion, once again I would like to remind you about safety. Do not attempt to disassemble, clean or repair gas equipment yourself. This work is for qualified professionals only.

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