Faulty pedal for sewing machine can cause a lot of trouble when operating this equipment. Even if the car does not stop completely and responds to pressing the pedal, it may not reach the speed, or, conversely, without smooth acceleration, it will break down to maximum speed, and may respond only after several presses on the pedal... Be that as it may, if the pedal breaks It becomes impossible to sew with sewing machines.
The first difficulty is that all of the listed difficulties may not necessarily be a consequence of the fact that it is broken. This could be a motor, wire, contacts. Only after making sure that they are in working condition, the conclusion is obvious: it is the faulty pedal that is to blame sewing machine.
The complexity of the repair depends on the type and design of the pedal itself. They come in two varieties depending on the car model: a pedal with a rheostat and one with electronic filling. You can determine which one is in your sewing machine by its weight. A rheostat pedal is usually much heavier than an electronic pedal. This is due to its internal design.
What is the difference between repairing rheostat and electronic pedals for sewing machines?
A pedal with a rheostat most often fails due to its fragility and careless use by consumers. Repairing the pedal of a sewing machine of this type is usually required after using it for a long time. Moreover, the threat of breakdown can be determined in advance, by the first signs: the sewing machine begins to move only at the end of pressing the pedal. If you do not pay attention to this in a timely manner, the car pedal will simply shatter into fragments and the essence of the repair will be gluing all the particles together with a very good and strong glue or replacing the pedal with a new one. The second option is, of course, more reliable.To avoid problems with the machine pedal, it is advisable to avoid sudden and strong pressing and not leave it plugged in if you are not using the sewing machine.
If the electronic pedal breaks down, it is unlikely that you can repair it yourself. All that a user who is far from electronics can do is to inspect its external integrity, whether the soldering of radio elements is damaged, or whether the wiring is torn off. More detailed repairs can be carried out by an electronics specialist with the necessary knowledge and equipment (oscilloscope, tester). Moreover, in the event of such a breakdown, you should not contact a sewing machine workshop, but rather a radio-electronic equipment adjuster.
The pedal for a sewing machine often causes a “breakdown” of the electric drive. The sewing machine suddenly begins to stop periodically and only after several presses “all the way” on the pedal does it resume its movement.
It happens that the sewing machine stops altogether, and even if you press the pedal with both feet, it will not work. The first thought that comes to mind in such a situation is that the engine has “burnt out.”
In fact, it's broken sewing pedal, not an electric motor. This can be determined if only because the engine lets you know about it before it “burns out”. Appears strong smell burnt electrical wiring, and it itself heats up no less than an iron.
Before deciding that the engine has “burned out,” touch it with your hand, you can even smell it,
Actually, repair sewing machine pedals in many such cases it is not necessary, since the reason may be trivially simple. The contacts of the connecting plugs have oxidized or the wire inside the cord insulation has broken. Contact oxidation is easy to eliminate, you just need to clean the contacts sandpaper. But it is very difficult to find a broken wire inside the wiring, and you will need a tester.
A wire break inside the insulation occurs for various reasons, but mainly due to careless handling of the pedal connecting wiring. This happens when the plug is constantly pulled out of the socket by the cord or angular, heavy objects, such as a chair leg, come into contact with the cord.
You can replace all the wiring without searching for a break. But this can only be done by an electrician, and not always, since the connecting plugs are often not disassembled, since they are cast at the factory along with the contacts and wiring.
The only way out in this case is to buy a new pedal for the sewing machine, and sometimes complete with a motor, which is of course more expensive. See How to disassemble the machine and replace the electric drive.
You will not be able to restore the wiring yourself and, most importantly, it is pointless, since the break may appear after some time in another place. Once one cliff has appeared, another one will soon appear. And in general, we categorically do not recommend repairing electrical appliances with your own hands. Electricity is a “serious” matter and only a specialist should do such work.
2. How does a sewing machine pedal work?
The sewing pedal circuit of household machines that do not use electronics is very simple and is a switch, only in the form of a rheostat, which consists of many graphite round plates. The graphite parts of the rheostat “burn out” and a coating appears on their surface, preventing electric current. As a result of many years long work sewing pedal pedal goes out of order, although external signs you won't find it.
The only sign of this is when the machine “disappears” at slow speeds. When you have to press the pedal “all the way” for the sewing machine to start working, and then immediately at the highest speeds. This is a clear sign that you need to buy a new pedal for your machine.
If your machine has a pedal of approximately this type, then you can move the rheostat housing. This can be used to regulate the smooth, jerk-free operation of the machine’s electric drive.
3. Can the sewing pedal be repaired?
Sometimes electronic pedals for a sewing machine cannot be repaired even by a sewing machine repairman. Rather, this needs to be done by a TV technician, since inside it there is a microcircuit and a board of radio components and a circuit and various testers will definitely be required. And by the way, these pedals, which are included in many models of Soviet-made sewing machines Chaika and Podolsk, very often break.
Such a pedal stops working suddenly, but always at the most inopportune moment. By this sign you can easily understand that the pedal is broken forever. But seriously, the main radio component (thyristor) inside the pedal simply fails and therefore it suddenly stops working.
These pedals are easy to distinguish from others. They have a plastic body and are much lighter than other types of pedals because there is only one small circuit board inside. Another difference is that the wire is mounted directly into the pedal body and is not disconnected, like, for example, the sewing pedal to the TUR-2 electric motor.
4. Sewing pedal for electric motor TUR-2
Another sewing pedal, often used in sewing machines that perform zigzag stitches, such as Chaika, Veritas sewing machine, Podolsk. A very good pedal and comes complete with a TUR-2 electric motor, too good quality. True, its fragile body often breaks, but this is not the fault of the pedal, but the owner of the sewing machine, who treats it carelessly.
The body of this sewing pedal is very fragile, and the top cover is held in place by a small shim on the bottom body. Often this protrusion breaks when hit or pressed hard with the foot and the pedal “opens”. This is the moment when you will see how the pedal works.
You can fix this damage yourself, but you will need to restore the limiter in any way convenient for you. For example, glue or screw a small stopper made of plastic or metal.
In order to disassemble this sewing pedal, you need to pull out the bushing that connects both halves of the pedal. It is not difficult to find where this bushing is located, but it is difficult to discover that it is also secured with a screw. There is a hole in the middle of the bottom cover at the level of the bushing, which is sealed with putty. Under the putty is the screw that securely clamps the bushing. Unscrew it and the bushing can be easily removed.
Why is such secrecy necessary? Most likely, not everyone can disassemble a rather unsafe electrical device. I hope you also understand that disassembling electric pedals is dangerous.
5. Do not leave the pedal connected to the network unattended.
After self-repair Do not leave the sewing pedal plugged in for long time unattended. Due to inept adjustment of the rheostat, the sewing pedal may remain in the on mode all the time and overheat.
If you remove your foot from the pedal, there should be no voltage at the output contacts of the plug going to the electric motor, since the electrical circuit is completely disconnected. But, you can break this chain without knowing it.
Even when you take your foot off the pedal, a small current will still flow to the rheostat. The circuit closes, but you will not understand this, since the sewing machine will not move. As a result, both the pedal and the electric motor will gradually heat up and heat up, and then you know what happens...
Therefore, if you cannot check this with a tester, just make it a rule that you should not leave any electric sewing machine, even a new one, plugged into the outlet unattended, especially for a long time.
6. The first models of sewing machine pedals
Well, and the last “rarity” that “our” cars have had since Soviet times. Especially often such a pedal can be found on straight-stitch sewing machines, such as Singer, Podolsk. I don’t know who came up with such a design, but it’s for sure that this sewing pedal is more convenient to use with your thumb than with your foot. Otherwise, this is a fairly reliable and “eternal” sewing pedal. And the wiring does not break inside its insulation. You can't break it if you want, it's such a thick wire. And the rheostat never burns out and even splitting its body is quite difficult. So, if it comes with the electric drive of your sewing machine, don’t expect it to last for a long time.
How does a modern household electric sewing machine work? Basic malfunctions of components and mechanisms.
The master's opinion about which sewing machine is the best. Learn more about a used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.
What are the advantages of a horizontal shuttle. How such a shuttle works, its possible malfunctions and how to eliminate them.
Just like the pedal, the electric motor should not be repaired yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine either works or it doesn't. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it does not need to be repaired, but replaced. And to figure out when it needs to be changed, read this article.
If you have such a machine, then it can be converted. Instead of manual drive install an electric drive with a pedal. Buy the cheapest kit. Just be careful not to confuse the rotation of the motor, since the overlock motor rotates in reverse side. It is advisable that the pedal for the sewing machine is not the cheapest and has a ceramic body.
The foot drive is difficult to use directly and figuratively. In addition, it knocks a lot, which, as a rule, requires replacing the bearing. The best decision for the broken foot drive- use it as a table, and install an electric motor to the machine. And then you can control the machine using a sewing pedal.
To avoid overloading the electric motor and sewing machine pedal At the same time, use elastic and not too thick threads. You should also not sew fabrics that are not intended for sewing on household sewing machines. This causes the electric drive to experience increased loads and heat up. And the first thing that happens is the sewing pedal.
How can a needle affect the operation of a sewing machine pedal? It is not just one thing that influences, but many factors in combination. For example, thick, rough fabrics, a blunt needle with a curved tip, continuous, non-stop operation of the engine, etc. All this causes the sewing machine pedal to burn out.
Repair of the electric drive of a sewing machine.
Very often, electric drives of sewing machines, both domestic and imported, fail. Replacing such parts costs the consumer a pretty penny. If, for example, a pedal or electric motor fails, you have to buy a complete set; they will not sell you separately.
In such cases, there are two options: give your hard-earned money to the seller or save money and repair it yourself.
Of course, there are complex malfunctions, but if you try, you can do everything.
Recently I came across this unit for repair.
Here's what it is:
ELECTRIC DRIVES types MSh-2 and MSh-2ER FOR HOUSEHOLD SEWING MACHINES General information
Electric drives of types MSh-2 and MSh-2ER are intended for household sewing machines domestic production and some models of imported machines, overlockers and household tools(grinders, etc.).
Symbol structure
MSh-2ER:
MSh - electric drive for sewing machines;
2 - modification number;
ER - electronic regulator voltage.
Climatic modification UHL, placement category 4.2 according to GOST 15150-69.
terms of Use
Nominal values of environmental climatic factors according to GOST 15150-69.
Indoor operation at ambient temperatures from 10 to 35°C.
The environment is non-explosive and does not contain chemically active mixtures that lead to the destruction of metal and insulation.
Operation at a distance of at least 1 m from electric heating devices.
Storage in a dry, heated room at temperatures from 1 to 40°C.
Protecting a person from damage electric shock corresponds to class 2 according to GOST 12.2.007. 0-75.
Electric drives comply with the requirements of TU 16-539.280-78.
Regulatory and technical document
TU 16-539.280-78
Specifications
Rated voltage, V - 220 Supply frequency, Hz - 50 Rated power, W - 40 Rated current, A, no more than - 0.5 Motor shaft speed, min-1 - 6000±1200 Efficiency, % - 45 Rated torque , Nm - 0.0635 Electricity consumption, kWh - 0.1 Weight, kg, no more - 1.8
The operating mode of the electric motor is intermittent and short-term with an on-time duration of up to 40% of the cycle time.
The longest cycle duration is 10 minutes: pause 6 minutes, work 4 minutes. The number of working cycles is not regulated.
Smooth control is ensured when the drive is installed on the sewing machine.
Average time between failures is at least 300 hours.
Guarantee period operation - 1 year for the MS-2 electric drive and 1.5 years for the MS-2ER from the date of sale through the retail chain.
Design and principle of operation
The MSh-2 electric drive consists of a single-phase series-excited commutator motor with a bracket, powered by the mains alternating current frequency 50 Hz and a carbon ballast rheostat.
The MS-2ER electric drive differs from the MS-2 in the presence of an electronic voltage regulator.
The engine shaft rotation speed is controlled by changing the voltage that occurs when the force on the pedal changes.
The direction of rotation of the electric motor shaft is left, when viewed from the output end of the shaft.
Dimensional, installation and connecting dimensions Electric drives MSh-2 and MSh-2ER are shown in the figure.
This is an MS-2 electric drive (with a carbon ballast rheostat)
And this is MSh-2ER (with an electronic pedal)
Let's start disassembling the engine.
The first step is to remove the brushes. Try to do this carefully and slowly, the brush itself is connected to a spring and if you don’t hold it, it can fly out and break if dropped.
The brushes are removed using a screwdriver; you need to press on the brush holder and turn it 90 degrees.
The condition of the brushes is normal, there are no cracks or chips.
Now you need to remove the pulley from the motor shaft. This is done simply, as shown in the photo, press the lock and remove the pulley from the shaft. Again, be careful, the latch has a spring and may fly away, then you will have to search for a long time.
And here you can see how to install the pulley in place, insert the lock into the hole on the shaft, press it with a screwdriver and install the pulley. The latch, under the action of a spring, will enter the hole in the pulley and secure it.
All that remains is to unscrew the screws and nuts and remove the housing.
And here is the “heart” of our engine.
The year of manufacture is 1965, the old man is ancient, and apparently it has never been disassembled, perhaps the brushes were changed. Over time, the bearing grease has dried out, so it gets very hot.
If you press on the base of the bearing, it will come off, we get good access for cleaning and lubrication, nothing to say, it’s convenient.
And here you can see what the lubricant has turned into long years operation, the bearing rotates with force. For proper engine operation, all bearings must be kept clean and high-quality bearing lubricant must be regularly used. The following changes will indicate deterioration in the lubrication of the electric motor bearing: slowing down of rotation or stopping of the bearing rings, heating or melting. The lubricant needs to be changed when it becomes dirty and a thicker consistency appears.
Before completely replacing the lubricant, you must:
wash the bearing with kerosene,
fill with fresh grease.
Hands and tools (wooden or metal spatulas) must be clean. Fill the space between the balls and races with lubricant along the entire diameter.
We also lubricate the second bearing on the impeller side.
After some simple operations, the engine started working like new.
And here is the second engine MSh-2ER (with an electronic pedal). Didn't want to work, stopped periodically or wouldn't start.
Upon careful inspection, poor-quality soldering was discovered; there may be a manufacturing defect, or there may be oxidation of the solder as a result of improper operation. The wire was practically dangling, causing the electric motor to operate unstably.
All parts and wire must be well tinned and soldered.
And don't forget about lubrication. It has already thickened greatly. Therefore, first we clean the bearing of old grease and fill in new one.
The motor started working stably, now it has a long life ahead of it.
Repair of the voltage regulator (pedal) of the electric motor of a sewing machine.
The sewing speed is usually controlled by the force of pressing the electric drive pedal. The engine and speed controller are connected to electrical network using an electrical cord. The machine is started by pressing the speed control pedal. More pressure corresponds to a higher sewing speed. After stopping the machine, you must remove your foot from the pedal to avoid inadvertent starting.
There are many types of voltage regulators.
Main types:
- carbon ballast rheostat.
- electronic voltage regulator.
The pedal with a carbon rheostat has an assembly of carbon tablets located in a ceramic housing. When you press on the pedal, the tablets are compressed, as a result of which the resistance drops and the engine starts; the more you squeeze the tablets, the less resistance and the higher the engine speed. The main faults in such regulators, as elsewhere, are faulty cables, connectors, and power plugs. Coal tablets often burn out, in which case it is necessary to replace the burnt-out tablets. If they are not there, you can turn them out of graphite brushes using a turbine and a needle file.
Pedal for electric drive MSh-2
The design is quite simple; there is a device for suppressing interference from capacitors and chokes.
The electric motor stopped spinning, but not immediately; at first it worked, then it didn’t work.
A very common cause is poor soldering. The photo shows that the enameled wire coming from the inductor was not cleared of enamel and tinned before soldering. They just hung their noses and decided that it would work that way.
I had to correct someone else's mistake, remove solder snot, clean the enamel wire, and solder it normally.
I recently came across a pedal made in China.
It opens easily, just use a screwdriver to pry off the top cover of the pedal.
Voltage adjustment is stepwise, several speeds. Quite simple and reliable, it consists of a choke, a diode and a group of contacts.
There are few parts, and there is nothing to break; the diode may fail, the contacts may burn, or the inductor may break.
Dear Colleague kirich I recently reviewed a holder for an engraver with an inhumane price tag in . In the comments, I promised to describe the holder much simpler and almost an order of magnitude cheaper.
Well, no one pulled their tongue - I am fulfilling my obligation :)
Before the collapse of the ruble, I bought a Dremel “clone” for one and a half thousand rubles, with a full set of attachments and a flexible shaft. Over time, the engraver turned out to be the most frequently used tool - it is so practical and convenient. Only I didn’t use a flexible shaft - I was always afraid that if the attachment got stuck, the engraver would start jumping around the table, destroying everything. Yes, and reaching for the button is inconvenient.
The turning point came when I needed to cut tiles to correct flaws after renovation in the bathroom. The tiles cut like butter, the flexible shaft turned out to be very convenient to use. I realized that something needs to be improved in the design in order to use the flexible shaft permanently.
So, introductory:
- I need the engraver to stand securely while I’m sawing something
- you need a remote button, and ideally a pedal
- I don’t want to cut the engraver’s wire or unscrew the case
The solution to the second problem was a penny pedal from Aliexpress:
As a base, I took a piece of DNT slab left over after installing “adjustable floors” in the apartment. A piece of about 16x20 cm pulled 500 grams - which solved the issue with stability. And here pine board the same size had to be rejected, it turned out to be too lightweight - after all, the glue and sawdust from which DNT is made are much denser. As an alternative, I considered cutting porcelain stoneware or marble, but it was not necessary.
We use plastic plugs from kitchen furniture as “legs”:
We place a patch socket on the same piece of wood (we didn’t want to cut the engraver’s original wire, did we?) We use the socket body as a junction box - we run the wire there to the socket and to the pedal. We tin the twist and insulate it with a couple of layers of heat shrink:
We disassemble the pedal (to do this you just need to push the axle to the side): 
We unsolder the standard wire (it’s still not good for anything, either in cross-section or in length). We connect our wire to the switch using saber connectors:
(There is no marking on the switch, except for the designation of contacts NO and NC, and the manufacturer’s brand - “DAIER”. The closest similar model on the site is 16A, but I would not allow more than 10A through it)
IN assembled form the entire device takes up little space and is very stable - after all, we added half a kilo of mass to the engraver:
The pedal is very sensitive and handles light presses perfectly. Thanks to 4 large rubber feet, it is absolutely non-slip:
The entire assembled unit takes up little space; my engraver with all accessories fits in a standard IKEA tin box:
Let's summarize - for three kopecks we turn a hand engraver from scrap materials into a more solid device, and at the same time increase the safety of use. Additionally, the engraver can be secured on the table with a clamp, which will make the fastening completely reliable.
No changes were made to the design. Removing and installing the engraver on the base is a matter of minutes; there is no need to unscrew or screw anything. The latches hold the engraver absolutely securely.
Since the unit is fixed, it can be used not only with a flexible shaft, but also as a small “machine”. For example, I want to get to a 3D printer and print something like this