Garden plants with a shallow root system. Root systems of hardwood trees

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When planning the garden of your dreams, the most attractive and exciting process is the process of choosing plants. Planting should be in harmony with all elements of the garden. It is the vegetation that is remembered in the garden first of all. It must be borne in mind that each plant has its own characteristics and tendency to a certain type of soil. When all the issues with the preparation of the soil are carried out, we proceed to the selection of plants. This is done taking into account their requirements for light, moisture, soil nutrition and belonging to the climatic zone. It is possible, of course, to create collections and difficult-to-care gardens, but this requires a conscious, responsible decision. Only taking into account the above points, the plants will grow well and delight you with the splendor of greenery and a riot of colors. But, the most important rule is to start working with plants with love. Many experiments have been carried out, proving that plants react to your attitude towards them.

Having a wide range of plants (unless of course you collect a collection) does not mean that the garden is perfect. The main attention is paid to the appearance, texture, leaf shape, color, size, flowering time of plants. It will not be superfluous to get acquainted with the types of the root system. These data should be taken into account when preparing planting pits and determining the location of plants.

In garden centers, plants are now sold in containers (closed root system). It is easier to compose a composition from such plants and they can be planted almost all year round, with the exception of the period when the ground is frozen. It is easier to transport container plants and their survival rate is better. Checking a container plant or not is easy - just get the plant out of the container. The lump must be intertwined with roots and not fall apart. But, if the roots crawled out of the drainage holes, it means that the plant has not been transplanted for a long time and it will be in a depressed state (you need to pay attention to such things). Large specimens are often sold in "balots" - a prepared root ball in burlap, placed in a metal mesh. This is also a closed root system. Burlap in the ground rots in a season, and the mesh decomposes in 3-4 years. Therefore, such plants are planted in a grid, only the upper part is cut off - this is done to allow the trunk to grow. In spring and autumn, plants with an open root system are transplanted and divided - such planting material is cheaper, but planting time is reduced.

Typical root systems of woody plants:
1 - Rod unbranched root system, the main roots during normal development are very deep (fir, ginkgo biloba, larch, pseudohemlock, red maple, field maple, Norway maple, hornbeam, tree-like hazel (bearnut), small-leaved linden, elm, horse chestnut, black alder, birch, beech, lirodendron, yew berry) rice. one
2 - Tap root system unbranched in youth, branched with age, deep on normal soils (European larch) fig. 2
3 - Deep, branched root system. With age, the taproot branches out due to the increase in the mass of lateral roots (pedunculate oak, mountain ash, pseudolarch, hawthorn, plum, pear, common ash) Fig. 3
4 - Tap root system unbranched in youth, branched with age. On normal soils it is deep, on heavy soils it is flat (Scots pine) rice. 4
5 - Superficial root system. Basically, the roots are very superficial, often located radially (warty birch, Griffith pine, red oak, maple, locust, willow, cypress, thuja, hemlock, spruce, turf, magnolia, sumac) fig. 5

You should be aware that not all plants tolerate the influence of the roots and crowns of other trees. There are a number of plants that are still quite unpretentious next to more powerful neighbors. These are: boxwood, sod, hazel, euonymus, ivy, holly, privet, honeysuckle, pyracantha, alpine currant, elderberry, snowberry, yew, mahonia, wolfberry, chaenomeles, lingonberry, periwinkle.

The territory of our sites, as a rule, is small. Therefore, you should be aware of the plants that are inappropriate to use in small areas (unless, of course, a decision has been made to plant one or two large-sized plants). Types of tall plants whose height in adulthood is from 4 to 20 meters: single-colored fir (15m), lawson cypress (5m), larch (18m), Serbian spruce (14m), prickly spruce (15m), Austrian black pine (15m), field maple (15m, crown diameter 12m), common maple (30m), silver maple (30m), horse chestnut (25m), forest or European beech (25m), ash (up to 35m), English oak (40m), red oak (up to 20m), Robinia (12m), white willow (crown diameter and height 20m), European linden (up to 40m), small-leaved linden (up to 20m).

But, at present, our market is very rich dwarf types and varieties of ornamental plants. With their help, you can decorate even very small rockeries and mixborders very beautifully, make a beautiful accent on an alpine hill, replenish a collection or make a single landing in front of a window or in a lawn. When choosing plants, it is very convenient to use Polish catalogs sold in garden centers. Here not only photographs of plants are placed, but also their shape and size relative to the human figure are indicated. Dwarf firs, spruces, arborvitae, junipers, birches, barberries, spireas, columnar oaks and mountain ash, a lot of standard forms of coniferous and deciduous plants can please the eye.


   

   

   

   

It would be nice to know that there are concepts of frost resistance and winter hardiness of plants. Frost resistance- this is the ability of plants to withstand low temperatures characteristic of a certain climatic zone. A winter hardiness- the endurance of plants with frequent changes in the environment (either a sharp cold snap with strong wind and frost, then warming, then snowfall, etc.). Each type of plant has its own distinctive characteristics, for example: Horse chestnut does not come from our places, it is frost-resistant and can grow in both sunny and shady places. Black alder requires moist soil and does not tolerate calcareous soils. Beech and hornbeam tolerate pruning well and require fresh soil. Birch tolerates pruning well, but you need to know what time to do it so that it does not dry out from loss of juice, but in general, this plant is unpretentious. Small-leaved linden does not tolerate soil compaction. And the pedunculate oak is thermophilic and grows very slowly.

Exists plant classification in relation to lighting, soil acidity, relation to environmental influences and industrial emissions, soil compaction at the roots, wind-resistant and wind-resistant plants. It is necessary to identify groups of plants that tolerate short-term flooding: field maple, ash-leaved, pseudoplane tree, alder, chokeberry, birch, hornbeam, white turf, holly, magnolia, plum, rhododendron, black elderberry, snowberry, linden, elm, mountain ash, viburnum, aristolochia , clematis, honeysuckle, larch, spruce, Scotch pine, Weymouth, thuja, cypress. But there are very few plants that will endure a constantly elevated water level: the deren will give a weak increase, and the metosequoia will take a long time to rebuild, and this is not our plant.

Heavy clay soils for Belarus is not uncommon. You can completely replace the soil on the site, carry out drainage work, make the necessary slope for water drainage and add a sand cushion, but in this case, we are talking about a 60 cm soil layer. from surface to depth. For annuals and herbaceous perennials, this is a solution to the problem, but for trees and tall shrubs, in which the root system goes several meters deep, this is help, but as long as the plant is young. Therefore, it is better to save yourself from disappointment in the future and study the list of plants suitable specifically for your conditions. Moreover, the list of plants is quite large: maple, alder, hornbeam, turf, hazel, cotoneaster, hawthorn, euonymus, beech, forsythia, ash, ivy, holly, oak, alpine currant, wild rose, blackberry, willow, clematis. From conifers: cypress, larch, microbiota, spruce, pseudo-hemlock. It should be remembered that some varieties of the above plants can be very whimsical, but an individual approach is important here. And species plants calmly tolerate these conditions.

A very important indicator soil acidity. In the past, we have already said that acidic soils prevail in Belarus, but conifers, rhododendrons, hydrangeas and some other plants need a special substrate. It must be added to the planting hole and mixed with the existing soil. Consider many beloved hydrangea- about the physiological origin of the change of colors in these plants. How to get blue hydrangeas? It is very important to choose the right variety. A pure blue color is possible only in a pink-flowered variety, whose flowers contain a sufficient amount of the coloring matter delphinidin. White flowers do not have this coloring matter, so they will never turn blue. Deep pink cultivars such as 'Hamburg' contain small amounts of delphinidin in their flower cells. They are dominated by red, they will give purple, which can also be interesting. Only with sufficient application of aluminum to the soil before flowering will it guarantee a pure blue color. Aluminum can be applied to plants in soil with a low pH value, because. it decomposes sufficiently only at a value less than 5.0 and can be absorbed by plants. Aluminum sulfate is applied from 1.5 to 5 per cubic meter. Hydrangea of ​​the delicate variety "Bouquet of Roses" easily changes color even with slightly acidic soil. But, it should be noted that plants with blue flowers are much lower than those with blue and pink flowers. Mixed-color specimens may be the largest.

Plants for acidic soils: Coniferous - fir, cypress, ginkgo, juniper, spruce, microbiota, low pine or dwarf pine, Weymouth pine, common, Griffith, pseudo-hemlock, yew, thuja, hemlock. Deciduous - broom, dabetia, action, sucker, erica, gorse, hydrangea, holly, willow, magnolia, pachysandra apical, types of cinquefoil, swamp oak, red, some varieties of currants, raspberries, blackberries, roses, red elderberry, blueberries. Mountain ash, viburnum, spirea, lilac, dogwood - withstand acidic soils.

If we are more or less clear with moisture and acidity, then “turn on” sunlight in shady corners and from the north side of the buildings will not work. But nature took care of that too. If such conditions exist, then there are plants for them. Green varieties of barberries feel good without bright sun, they endure shade: boxwood, hornbeam, derain, hazel, cotoneaster, hawthorn, euonymus, forest beech, holteria, witch hazel virginian, ivy, hydrangea, holly, kerria, privet, honeysuckle (flowering will not plentiful), some varieties of magnolia, pachysandra, vesicle, japanese pieris (in our zone winters under cover), bird cherry, rhododendron, some varieties of gooseberries, dog rose, elderberry, mountain ash, varieties of viburnum, large-leaved linden, euonymus forchuna, clematis, aristolochia. From coniferous plants: fir, species and varieties of spruces, cypress trees, hemlock, microbiota, western thuja, folded, chisel-shaped thuja.

It is necessary to note one more very important point, which is usually not paid attention to - in nature there are poisonous plants and they are widely used in landscaping. If there are small children in the house, then their attention is often attracted by berries on ornamental plants, they often tear off the bark from branches or take plant parts in their mouths. In the wolf, all parts of the plant are poisonous, and 10-12 berries are a lethal dose for children. In the euonymus, all parts are poisonous, 36 berries are deadly for an adult. The holly has poisonous fruits and leaves, 30 berries are deadly for an adult. In the bean plant - all parts of the plant are very dangerous, 4 beans is a lethal dose for a child. In sumac, bark and milky juice are dangerous. In juniper, all parts of the plant are poisonous, 20 grams are deadly, the ends of the shoots are especially dangerous. Datura, lily of the valley, foxglove are also classified as poisonous plants, but they are not as dangerous as those listed above.

Allergy- an insidious disease and it is necessary to know the allergens of natural origin. The most numerous group of allergens that enter the body mainly from the air and through direct contact with the skin: plant pollen (most of the pollen is emitted by plants in the morning), mold spores, powdery mildew, the juice of some plants, which is released when they are damaged. There are two periods when pollen is constantly in the air - this is spring, when deciduous trees bloom and summer, the time of flowering grasses. You can leave for this period. I don’t want to create an image of enemy plants, each of the following has properties that are unique in beauty. Deciduous trees: goat willow, black and gray alder, poplar, aspen, hazel, birch, ash, jasmine. Lawn grasses should not be brought to flowering and mowed in time. Cereals and herbs: oats, rye, wheat, rice, wheatgrass, timothy, hedgehog, ragweed, meadow grass, chaff, chamomile, fescue, plantain, ryegrass, foxtail, ornamental cereals, yarrow, asters, chrysanthemums, helenium. Many herbs bloom during the flowering of poplars and it is the herbs that cause allergic reactions, and poplars are only a source of fluff. Plants that cause phytodermatosis: nettle, wolf's bast, dandelion, white gauze, quinoa, wormwood, nightshade, ivy leaves, primrose plants.

Root systems should not strongly overlap each other, intertwine and grow together. It is unacceptable that they compete for water and food, or that they run into obstacles as they grow - foundations and communications.

In shape, the root system is not necessarily a mirror image of the outlines of the crown. It may seem that if the crown is even and balanced, then the picture is the same with the root system. This is not entirely true.

Sometimes the roots do not go beyond the projection of the crown (felt cherry). Sometimes the branches are sprawling, and the root is taproot, going deep (some pines, pedunculate oak). And it happens that the crown is columnar, and the root system is superficial (columnar forms and varieties of common spruce).

In addition, the root system of some plants is able to change. Young Robinia pseudoacacia has a fibrous root system, and in adulthood it is similar to a superficial one. Soil and ecological conditions are also important: Scotch pine forms a deep rod system on sands, and fibrous on wet heavy soils.

The root system of plants is just as amenable to formation as their ground part. This is exactly what is done in nurseries - periodically (once every 4-7 years, depending on the species), plants are "transferred" from one school to another. That is, they dig out, form the ground part and cut the root system. The cut roots begin to branch, a compact fibrous system is obtained. It is very convenient for transportation and planting - it can be placed and straightened in any way in the landing pit. And you can’t handle the tap root like that - it does not tolerate bending and twisting.

The tap root system is characteristic of plants living where groundwater is deep (on sandy soils). It provides the plant with high resistance against the wind - the roots go deep, like piles. That is why mast pines on sandy mounds stand under the winds as if nothing had happened. And the mighty forest spruces, with their sailing crown and superficial root system, a strong wind brings down relatively easily - there are many such defeated giants in any forest.

Roots work like water pumps. But this does not mean at all that they are necessarily deepened to aquifers. If the water is close, then the root system can be fibrous, or even superficial - but it performs its task successfully. For example, an adult drooping birch most often has a medium-type root system - between fibrous and superficial, and its roots “pump out” about 200 (!) Liters of water from the soil per day. That is why drooping birch is often blacklisted as "dryers of the earth" and tend to be uprooted before laying out the garden. And in vain - sometimes after that the site turns into a swamp.

The planting site must be chosen according to the type of its root system and according to the individual "relationship" to the level of groundwater. The general rule is simple: plants with a shallow and fibrous root system are relatively tolerant of high standing water, with a rod system they are intolerant. If the water is near the surface, then almost all plants will suffer from wetting of the roots and will soon die (except for especially water-loving species).

Another problem is how to plant plants in developed areas next to structures and buildings. If the root system is superficial, then it can stumble upon the foundation wall, if fibrous and rod - on communications laid in the ground. And not only will it suffer itself, but it will also harm buildings. There are well-known rules that help to avoid this.

The tree is supposed to be planted at least 5 m from the wall of the building and at least 1.5 m from the sewer pipe, the shrub - at least 1.5 m from the wall and at least 1.0 m from the pipe.

However, the norms are given with some reinsurance. If a tree has a spreading crown and a branched root system, then it really should not be planted closer than 5 m from the wall of the house. If this is a columnar tree with a taproot (for example, the form of fastigiata of Scotch pine), and the garden house stands on a strip foundation, then the norm can be observed not so strictly.

It has been established that the average depth of possible winter soil freezing in central Russia is 1.5 m. In fact, this figure is extreme and very conditional. Such freezing is possible only in severe snowless winters in areas where there is no vegetation cover. Usually in winter, only a frozen crust forms on the surface of the earth. And the root systems of woody plants in the ground do not freeze through so much - otherwise there would have been no forests left for a long time. After all, common spruce can withstand freezing of the root system only down to -23 ° C, and at -24 ° C, the root tissues liquefy and the tree dies.

The trouble is that many inexperienced gardeners believe that freezing the ground one and a half meters deep is an annual norm, a common thing for plants. And they begin to thoughtlessly plant them in containers, on retaining walls, in roof gardens ... Naturally, in the open air, without protection of the soil layer, these plantings die from freezing roots.

Firms engaged in winter planting of large-sized trees sometimes dig up trees in advance and leave them to stand in the open air, with an uncovered root ball, waiting for the customer. A week or two of severe frosts - the lump freezes through, the roots die. You can't see it in winter. Only at the beginning of summer it will become clear to the customer that he paid money for planting a "freshly frozen" plant.

If the plant is free from all kinds of interference, then its root system develops normally and reaches the size that is needed to feed the crown. These sizes are different. For example, in a two-meter rhododendron, the root system is superficial and narrow. And at the apple tree, it reaches almost to the edge of the crown projection, and the roots that feed the plant are located further than others. Therefore, a near-trunk circle with a diameter of 1 m, dug in at the trunk of an apple tree with a crown diameter of 5 m, is a pointless business. Neither watering nor top dressing at such a distance from the trunk will give an effect, it is better to apply foliar top dressing along the crown. That's why it's important to know exactly how big the space occupied by the tree's root system is.

“Plant a tree, build a house, give birth to a son...” From time immemorial, life has been inextricably linked with human life. How to place faithful companions so that they feel great and please the eye for many years?

The tradition of planting a tree on significant dates for a person goes back to prehistoric times. Our ancestors revered the "luminaries" of the plant world and attributed magical properties to them. The druids were especially good at this. To this day, it is considered a good sign to plant a tree for a wedding, in honor of the birth of a child and after arranging your own family nest: a living amulet protects from evil, gives strength and health. Entire alleys raise branches to the sky in memory of outstanding people ... What can we say about - a rare owner refuses to plant at least one tree on the site. But in our time, the practical value of these representatives of the flora is a priority - they are key elements. So trees:

  • make the garden three-dimensional,
  • zoning,
  • cover up the unsympathetic
  • or, conversely, serve as bright accents
  • and, of course, give a fertile shadow.
Previously, in the villages, almost sprawling giants towered near every house -, or. Today, not every owner of land "acres" can afford to invite large-sized beauties to the garden for permanent residence. Fortunately, over the past decades, through the efforts of breeders, many compact varieties with columnar or. Trees become more beautiful every year, and their aura that protects the garden is stronger.

autumn leaves palmate maple(Acer palmatum) ‘Aureum’ take on an orange-red hue. This low-growing tree reaches only 3 m in height, so it is great for planting in a small garden.



Jacquemont birch and palm-shaped maple "Aureum"

leafy canopy plane tree(Platanus acerifolia) brings welcome coolness on hot summer days.




Foliage plums serrate(Prunus serrulata) turns reddish-yellow in autumn. The plant in the garden needs a lot of "personal space", since its crown in diameter reaches 5 m.




Choosing a Green Companion, analyze its deco potential: will the “newcomer” fit into the look of the garden? For example, trees with picturesquely falling branches, such as drooping birch(Betula pendula) ‘Youngii’ or forest beech(Fagus sylvatica) ‘Purpurea Pendula’, are ideal candidates for a romantic and natural style site. And trees with geometric crowns are a winning option for modern-style gardens. They take up little space and, as a rule, even without retaining their shape.

The undisputed favorites of the garden there will be trees that retain decorativeness all year round due to bright foliage and bark, lush flowering, abundant fruiting (, mountain ash).

We keep our distance

The tree near the house is a classic of the garden "genre". But in order for this tandem to be harmonious, when landing, you need to carefully verify the distance. Do not plant large trees near the wall of the house. After all, even species with narrow crowns, such as small-serrated cherry, or ‘Amanogawa’ sakura, require a lot of “personal space”.

For narrow front gardens it is better to choose plants that tolerate well (for example, common hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), because they are easy to "fit" to the desired size.


Another important point is the features of the root system.. next to the paved The trunk circle of a tree is not the most suitable place for planting other plants.

Only shade-tolerant and drought-resistant herbaceous perennials, such as the:

  • sparrow (Lithospermum),
  • (Duchesnea)
  • epimedium (Epimedium),
  • (Symphytum)

as well as hardy ornamental grass and dwarf shrubs, For example:
  • shadow sedge (Carex umbrosa),
  • (Euonymus fortunei),
  • pachysandra (Pachysandra).

Somewhat easier to find satellites for catalpa, liquidambar, ginkgo, ornamental apple and sakura. Under them you can break a flower garden:

Pests don't like them.

Linden large-leaved(Tilia platyphyllos) often attacks leafy. As a result, a sticky pad appears on the leaves, which makes it very unpleasant to rest under a tree. If you decide to plant such a tree in the garden, give preference to silver linden (Tilia tomentosa): it is more resistant to this scourge.


Sticky pad appears on linden leaves field maple(Acer campestre) often strikes. The situation will be saved by choosing a variety less susceptible to this disease - ‘Elsrijk’.

love horse chestnut(Aesculus hippocastanum), but the contemplation of the leaves turned brown due to the parsley moth does not delight you? Settle your garden more undersized horse chestnut meat-red(Aesculus x carnea) ‘Briotii’ with red flowers - it is not to the taste of the pest.

Photo: Annette Timmermann, Gartenfoto.eu/Martin Staffler, GAP Gardens, Marion Nickig, Ursel Borstell, GBA/Staffler, D. van Dieken, F. Schuberth, F. Siemens, Alamy/Zoonar, Robert Mabic. Production: W. Bohlsen/K. Nennstiel/M. Schacht.A., Georg/K. Wiegert.
Artwork: MSG/Claudia Schick.

In almost every garden you can find ornamental flowering shrubs. They have many advantages. Firstly, they are very beautiful, secondly, many of them are quite frost-resistant, and thirdly, they are high and low (which expands the possibilities of using them for different types of landscapes). But the main thing is that with their correct selection, it is possible to achieve constant flowering of shrubs from the first spring days until late autumn. They are valued not only for their beautiful, often fragrant flowers, but also for their decorative leaves, crown shape and various fruits. There is a great variety of ornamental shrubs.

Most shrubs do not lose their decorative effect throughout the warm season, and some remain attractive even in winter.

There are shrubs that attract with their bright and abundant flowering, they can be called beautifully flowering. And there are those who cannot boast of beautiful flowers, but they have leaves of an unusual color or shape. Such bushes can be called decorative leafy.

The first group includes rhododendrons, lilac, hydrangea, bulldenezh, spirea, hawthorn, buddley, euonymus and some types of barberry. And from the second group, one can name Thunberg's barberry, holly, privet, tannery and others.

It is possible to divide flowering ornamental shrubs into groups according to the time of flowering. In April, we are pleased with forsythia, wolfberry, daphne. A little later they are joined by chaenomeles, low almond, cotoneaster, spirea, barberry. In May, viburnum, wild rose, lilac, and mock orange take over. Summer gives us the flowering of roses, cinquefoil, some varieties of spirea. In July, hydrangeas conquer with their beauty, which adorn the gardens until the very cold. In early autumn bloom: heather, kalmiya. Well, in winter, the decoration of the garden will be holly and its coniferous counterparts.

Autumn gardens look unusually colorful and elegant, thanks to some deciduous types of shrubs. When nothing else is in bloom, barberry, euonymus, chokeberry, spirea, wild rose, skumpia and hybrid azaleas add bright colors of various shades of autumn with their foliage. Most shrubs have fruits that are also very decorative.

Shrubs differ in growth, you can pick up both dwarf - undersized, and high varieties. The shape of the crown is domed, upright (pyramidal), fountain-shaped, creeping.

In addition to beauty and decorativeness, the practical properties of shrubs should also be emphasized. They grow fast enough and are long-lived (up to 5-8 years without a transplant). Most of them are unpretentious in terms of illumination, soil composition, and are quite frost-resistant. Do not require constant care. Thanks to the superficial root system, they can grow on slopes, fixing loose soil.

Barberry (Berberis)- deciduous or evergreen thorny shrubs, the barberry family. The color of barberry leaves is very diverse, in addition to the usual green, it can be variegated - with spots or a border, as well as purple or yellow. The height of the bush is also different, it depends on the variety. The range is from low - up to 30 cm, to high - more than 3 m. Barberry flowers are small yellow bells. Blooms in mid-May. Excellent honey plant.

It will not cause much trouble, because it is a very unpretentious shrub. Loves the light, but grows well in the shade. It is completely undemanding to soils, it does not tolerate only soaking. Not afraid of wind and drought. It is frost-resistant, especially the variety - Thunberg's barberry (Berberis thunbergii), however, in the first three years, a little shelter is needed for the winter. If the variety of barberry is unknown to you, then you need to make a frame of arcs and cover with non-woven material in two layers (as some variegated varieties may be less frost-resistant).

Undersized species of barberry look great on rocky hills and in rock gardens. And tall ones - like tapeworms and in group plantings. This shrub is a leader in use in hedges and borders, both clipped and loose.

Common privet (Ligustrum vulgare)- deciduous or evergreen shrub, olive family, 2-3 meters high. In June-August, pretty paniculate inflorescences appear with a pleasant aroma, white or cream. They are replaced by shiny black fruits. The leaves are leathery, most varieties are dark green, but there are also decorative forms with yellow, bluish-silver leaves.

Privet is an unpretentious plant. Can grow in full sun and partial shade. Any soil is suitable (except clayey with an acidic reaction). It is drought-resistant, in very hot weather rare but plentiful watering is recommended. Winter-hardy, easily restored, only some varieties need to be covered.

A feature of privet is that it responds very well to a haircut and can retain its shape for a long time. Therefore, it is great for dense borders. It makes wonderful molded hedges. You can even create unusual living walls. Topiary figures cut from privet are a wonderful landscape decoration.

Spirea (Spiraea)- Deciduous shrub with beautifully curving branches, Rosaceae family. This is a large genus of shrubs, which is divided into spring-flowering and summer-flowering. Flowers are varied in the form of inflorescences and color (from white to deep crimson). Its height does not exceed 2 m.

The plant is very unpretentious. Well adapted to urban conditions. Grows well in partial shade, but prefers full sun. Any soil is suitable, but slightly acidic is best. Watering is moderate. It grows quickly, blooms in the third year. Frost-resistant.

Has gained well-deserved love from gardeners and landscape designers. The vast variety of its varieties provides many opportunities for creativity. The shape of the bush can be pyramidal, spherical, flowing. The color of the leaves varies from green to yellow, orange or purple-red. Numerous small flowers are collected in inflorescences of various shapes. All these features of the crown, leaves and flowers allow you to create wonderful compositions. And if you choose the right varieties, you can admire the continuous flowering of spirea throughout the warm season. It is used in rockeries, hedges, as a frame for green-leaved groups of trees.

Bobovnik (Laburnum)- the legume family, has 6 types of shrubs, valued for their beautiful flowering. The most common are anagyroleaf bean or Golden Rain (Laburnum anagyroides) and Alpine bean (Laburnum alpinum). 'Golden Rain' is a shrub with smooth green and later light brown bark. It can have both pyramidal and dome-shaped drooping crown shape. The leaves are trifoliate, consist of oval leaves, the underside of which is pubescent. At the end of summer they become light yellow. Blooms in May. Inflorescences in the form of a large hanging brush (up to 30 cm), consisting of yellow flowers with moth corollas. They have a weak aroma. The fruits are first pubescent, then become smooth. Alpine beaver is very similar to Golden Rain, although it is more frost-resistant. Its branches and leaves are smaller, the fruits are not pubescent.

The plant is poisonous! The fruits contain alkaloids - laburnine and cytisine. Children should not be allowed near it.

The beaver is light-loving. The soil is undemanding, but good drainage is required. Bobovnik requires constant pruning to avoid turning the shrub into a large (up to 7 m) tree. While the trees are young, they need support. The first three years, young plants should be mulched and covered with agrofibre. After a slight freezing, the crown is quickly restored.

Both in a group and in a single planting, it looks very bright and beautiful, thanks to the large number of huge flower brushes. From the beaver, delightful canopies and pergolas are obtained.

Rhododendron (Rhododendron)- deciduous or evergreen shrub, heather family. In nature, it grows in Western Siberia, the Far East, Mongolia and China. There are many varieties with a variety of foliage: spear-shaped, round, oval. Inflorescence corymbose. The shape of the flowers and their color are also very diverse, in their beauty they can even compete with roses. They bloom from the end of April and almost all summer. They began to grow little by little in gardens, but you need to carefully select frost-resistant varieties that can overwinter in our climate.

The site for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the wind and be in partial shade. The soil is acidic or neutral. Needs regular watering.

In our area, they do not reach large sizes. By choosing different varieties of rhododendrons, you can ensure their constant flowering throughout the season. They look very nice next to coniferous plants. Their undersized varieties are great for rock gardens. Rhododendrons are used to create hedges near water bodies.

Irga (Amelanchier)- deciduous shrub or small tree, Rosaceae family. In the spring, often ahead of the leaves, beautiful white flowers bloom on the irga. Flowering is short, after which small black-purple fruits of a rounded shape appear (similar to tiny apples).

The fruits are tasty, juicy, rich in vitamins (especially P). The green leaves of the shadberry in autumn flash with bright colors: yellow, scarlet.

Irga is a very unpretentious plant. Light-loving, but tolerates shading. Doesn't like waterlogging. Very winter hardy. Not afraid of cold winds or spring frosts. Some species of this ornamental shrub are even suitable for decorating a garden in Siberia and the Far North.

This is not a complete list of frost-resistant ornamental shrubs.

shadow lovers

Many ornamental shrubs can grow and develop normally in moderately shaded areas. True, this may affect the abundance of flowering. Some also tolerate shading well, moreover, direct sunlight is contraindicated for them.

Dogwood (Cornus)- deciduous strongly branched shrub, dogwood family. In spring, dogwood decorates the garden with its flowering. Small white, purple or yellow dogwood flowers are collected in a head or umbrella (depending on the species). There are varieties in which small flowers in inflorescences are unsightly, but are surrounded by large bright petal-like leaves (bractei).

In autumn, dogwood foliage also pleases the eye with bright yellow, orange and crimson colors. The fruits also ripen in autumn. Most often dark red, sometimes light yellow or pink, oblong in shape. They not only add decorativeness to the bush, but are also tasty and healthy.

Dogwood leaves burn easily in the open sun, so shaded areas are suitable for it. Prefers moist soil and air. The composition of the soil is undemanding. Most varieties are hardy, but some require little shelter for the winter. Differs dogwood and durability. In landscape design, dogwood bushes are used as a tapeworm or in mixborders.

Hydrangea (Hydrangea)- hydrangea family, deciduous ornamental shrub. The flowers are collected in large domed or paniculate inflorescences. Most often they are white, but there are blue, red and pink. The color of some plants may vary depending on the chemical composition of the soil. V
Depending on the variety, the height of the bushes ranges from 1 to 3 meters. There are also dwarf varieties.
The plant is moisture-loving, it is better to plant in partial shade. Many varieties of paniculate and tree hydrangeas are frost-resistant. However, protection is needed in the winter: pinning branches to the ground, followed by spruce branches and agrofibre. Frozen branches are pruned in spring and the plant grows quickly.

In landscape design it is used both singly and in compositions with coniferous or other ornamental shrubs, as well as bulbous flowers. The bushes look amazing due to the splendor of the inflorescences and their large number.

Holly (Ilex aquifolium) or Holly- evergreen or deciduous shrub, holly family. In the wild, it grows almost everywhere. It is a beautiful plant with dark green or bicolor leathery leaves. Flowering lasts only two weeks from May to July (depending on the variety). The flowers are small, white and fragrant. Especially decorative with the onset of winter, when modest flowers are replaced by bright seedlings of bead-berries. Holly is an indispensable component of Western Christmas wreaths.

Many varieties of holly have been bred. Some with a white or yellow border around the edges of the leaves, or with a hint of blue. The purely male variety Blue Prince is an excellent pollinator. It should be noted that the holly plant is dioecious and female varieties delight us with red berries only if a male specimen grows nearby.

Holly areas exposed to the sun are contraindicated, as it can suffer from sunburn. You need to plant it in a shady place with forest soil. Does not tolerate drought, requires regular moisture. Most varieties are cold hardy.

Thanks to the dense and prickly foliage, the holly is well used as a hedge. It is a slow growing shrub that responds well to shearing, which is why it makes wonderful topiaries. The beautiful holly leaves make a great backdrop for bulbous or other perennial flowers in summer. Evergreen foliage and red berries make holly a bright accent in a deserted garden in winter.

coniferous shrubs

There is also a type of ornamental shrubs that have neither beautiful leaves nor flowers, but this makes them no less attractive. These are coniferous shrubs.

Juniper (Juniperus) is an evergreen shrub of the cypress family. The needles are needle-shaped or scaly. The fruits are blue-black cones (sometimes red-brown). The plant is dioecious. Exists
many types of juniper. Among them there are also high bushes (more than two meters), there are completely dwarf ones (up to 30 cm). They are also represented by a variety of forms: creeping, pyramidal, domed. Many frost-resistant varieties.

Junipers grow well in bright sunny areas. Undemanding to soils. Drought-resistant. In dry summers, it is required to water them well several times. Even frost-resistant varieties require winter shelter in the first year after planting. Junipers with a pyramidal crown for the winter must be tied up so that branches do not break under the weight of snow.

Low-growing and creeping varieties of juniper are used in alpine slides and to secure slopes and slopes. You can also create very original borders from them. High varieties are used in single and small group plantings.

Thuja- evergreen trees and shrubs, cypress family. Leaves are scaly. The fruits are oblong or oval cones with several pairs of scales. Seeds are flat with two wings. This plant is monoecious. It has many decorative artificially derived forms.

Grows in sunny areas and partial shade. The soil is suitable for any, but well permeable. Need regular watering and mulching of the root zone. Tui are frost-resistant, but young plants in the first two or three years require shelter for the winter. Like junipers, high pyramidal varieties of thuja for the winter must be tied to avoid damage to the branches under the weight of snow.

Due to its durability, winter hardiness and adaptability to urban conditions, thuja is very widely used in ornamental gardening in many climatic zones.

In landscape design, it is used to create picturesque alleys. From densely planted groups, depending on the height of the bush, living walls or hedges are formed. Thuja looks just as good as a tapeworm.

Ornamental shrubs, for the most part, are distinguished by unpretentious care, tolerate winter frosts well and at the same time are unusually beautiful. Everyone can choose the varieties and species that are suitable for his or her garden. Their diversity allows you to make the garden bright, blooming and delightful almost all year round!

Ground covers are low-growing plants with shoots creeping along the ground and a horizontally growing root system. They cover the area with a living "carpet", forming a continuous ground cover. Garden groundcovers include representatives of different types of plants, but flowering perennials of this group look especially decorative in landscape design.

Properly chosen groundcovers have practically no drawbacks, except for an indefatigable desire to capture new territories. The population needs to be controlled.

Choice for dry areas

These are flowering plants that can grow on poor soils without additional watering and top dressing. On the contrary, such additional care can lead to an undesirable increase in the vegetative mass, which reduces not only the intensity of flowering and decorative effect, but also the prospects for wintering.

stonecrops

Honored leader of this group. They belong to leaf succulents - plants adapted to a long absence of moisture due to its accumulation in special tissues of fleshy leaves and stems. Grow where, it would seem, nothing can grow, take root easily and tolerate drought. They have evergreen densely leafy branched shoots that can not only spread horizontally, but also rise to small hills. Due to this, they are indispensable for masking hatches, concrete surfaces, incl. those that are impossible to get out of the ground. Can grow in narrow strips of land between stones or slabs. Not affected by fungus or garden pests.

There are many varieties of stonecrops, differing in the shape and color of flowers and leaves - yellow, burgundy, bluish, bluish-green, purple. They can be planted with a mixture, creating a light and bright calico variegation. Flowering lasts 3-5 weeks in mid-summer. Faded flower stalks to preserve decorativeness should be cut to the general level of the flower bed.

The main danger for stonecrops and other winter-green ground cover is a massive layer of snow, especially in relatively warm winters, causing damping off. Dense plantings are especially affected. Therefore, when choosing a place, areas where snow accumulates should be excluded.

Young (stone rose)

Another ground cover succulent from the "plant and forget" category. The name stone rose perfectly conveys the external image of this plant, which in itself looks like a flower rosette. Unlike other covers, it grows more slowly, but retains its incredible beauty throughout the season, regardless of flowering.

The stone rose is indifferent to drought and frost, in bright sunlight it gives brighter leaf colors in the burgundy-violet spectrum. There are about fifty varieties in an incredible variety of shapes and colors.

Choice for clay soils

For planting on heavy clay soil, preference should be given to either insatiable “water-drinkers” or aggressor plants, which are distinguished by the constant release of air shoots and underground stolons. In addition, they must be frost-resistant and unpretentious. Periwinkle, marsh belozor, Siberian brunner, wild hoof, marsh marigold, hosta, garden forget-me-not and some others are able to withstand the conditions of constant waterlogging and lack of air exchange.

Ground covers you can walk on

We are talking about garden paths with a small "pedestrian stream". A living flower path between bushes and trees is amazingly beautiful and unusual. And much more economical than paving slabs and other paving materials. Flowers are planted between small cobblestones without sharp corners stuck into the ground or large flat stones. The main load will fall on the stone base, and what the flowers will get, they are quite capable of enduring if they are chosen correctly. Also, touching your feet will only enhance their scent.

Thyme

The best varieties of thyme for garden paved paths are Bogorodskaya grass, thyme, creeping thyme. Their fragrant and elastic shoots form a dense cover. They will withstand the load perfectly and will give you their delicious aroma every time. Sunny areas should be preferred.

Laurentia river

But this plant with miniature flower stars will survive in the most shaded corners of the garden, but it will also be happy with the open sun. The flowers are so small that outwardly the planting looks like a pale blue cloud. Flowering begins at the turn of spring-summer. The fast growing Blue Star Creeper is a great alternative to lawn grass.

Ayuga (survivor)

A super tenacious flower that fully justifies its name. Throws out an ear with tiny light flowers, lost against a background of very colorful flowery foliage. It does not impose requirements on lighting and does not require maintenance. Forms a beautiful garden lawn in darkened corners of the garden.

Loosestrife

It will thrive in the poorest soils and under the most spartan conditions, unless it is allowed to completely and completely dry out. Plant him on the path, in the stones by the road, trample on him - just give him the opportunity to freely creep and sprout at your pleasure. At the end of spring it will bloom with a delicate yellowness, and in a mild climate it will retain its color even in winter.

Use instead of lawn

The above and many other flowering ground cover perennials are quite capable of withstanding physical exertion, which means they can replace the lawn. Consider their advantages in relation to lawn grasses.

  • They are unpretentious and do not require regular care activities - haircuts, spring aeration, etc.
  • Sowing them does not require such thorough preparation of the soil.
  • Many species do well in the shade.
  • On sloping areas, lawn grass may require the installation of a special retaining grid, which significantly increases the cost of the process. Ground covers, on the other hand, reinforce the slope themselves.
  • Almost do not require watering, unlike cereal mixtures for the lawn. Can grow in moist soils.
  • They have bright colors.

Walked plants require more moisture. Such plantings need to be watered periodically.

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