Blowtorch is a portable burner with a directed flame used to heat parts. This adaptation is widely used in everyday life, and therefore there is a high probability that the lamp may break. This adaptation can be repaired even at home.
You will need
- – screwdriver;
- – needle;
- – wire;
- – oil for lubrication;
- – pliers.
Instructions
1. Every tool used in everyday life has its own “Achilles heel”. The most common malfunctions of a blowtorch include failure of the pump, which builds up pressure in the tank with “fuel,” and clogging of the nozzle. It is somewhat less common to encounter a malfunction of shut-off valves.
2. Observe the soldering area lamp and determine the problem. You will probably find out the reason that led to this breakdown.
3. If, after opening the valve, “fuel” oozes or bubbles, but is not supplied properly, then the problem is rooted in the nozzle. Clean the calibrated hole with a needle. If there is no result, then you will have to clean this component of the portable burner in a slightly different way.
4. Unscrew the jet and try to clean it again. After this, insert a thin wire into the fuel pipe, open the valve and flush this channel with gasoline. After completing the procedure, install the nozzle in place and secure it.
5. A malfunction of the blowtorch may manifest itself in the fact that hissing or other extraneous noise is heard during operation of the burner. The problem in this case is rooted in a malfunction of the inflating device.
6. In order to eliminate a malfunction related to the operation of the pumping device, unscrew the plug and remove the pump out. Remove the spool, the one located on the pump valve, clean this element of the burner structure from blockages and replace its spring. Lubricate the seals on the rod with engine oil.
7. If a flame begins to blaze from under the rod while the blowtorch is operating, extinguish the fire, and later remove the valve handle and plug and then change the gland packing of the intake needle.
On the eve of winter cold, a caring owner is obliged to check the functionality of the blowtorch. In order to avoid incidents related to the fact that precisely at the moment when something urgently needs to be heated, it turns out that it is impossible to do this due to a non-working device.
You will need
- – screwdriver,
- - pliers.
Instructions
1. Particularly frequent failures in the operation of a blowtorch occur due to a clogged nozzle or a malfunction of the pump that pressurizes the gas tank. Failure of shut-off valves is very rare.
2. Let's start in order.
3. First. If, while the pump is pumping air pressure into the fuel tank, a hissing sound is heard from under it or gasoline penetrates inside and is squeezed out by the rod moving upward, then the pumping device is repaired. For this purpose, the plug is unscrewed, the pump is removed out and disassembled. A valve is installed at the air outlet from the pump, consisting of a spring and a ball adjacent to a ground seat. The spool is disassembled, cleaned of debris and its spring is replaced (if it is damaged by corrosion or bent). When assembling the pump, the condition of the cuff on the rod is checked; if satisfactory, it is lubricated with engine oil. Otherwise, it is replaced with a new one, after which the pump is assembled and installed in its original location.
4. Second. The air pressure in the tank is increased, but after the valve is opened, gasoline is not squeezed out of the nozzle in a stream, but bubbles and flows down in drops. Try using the supplied needle to clean the calibrated hole. If this does not work, then the jet is unscrewed and cleaned. After this, you need to slide a thin iron wire into the fuel pipe, then open the valve and flush the channel with gasoline, and screw the nozzle into place.
5. Third. After the lamp flares up, gasoline is squeezed out from under the valve stem and ignites. To eliminate dangerous manifestations, the flame of the device is extinguished, the residual air pressure is released from the tank, the valve handle is removed from the stem, the plug is unscrewed and the stuffing box of the shut-off needle is changed. Later, all previously dismantled parts are returned to their places.
Video on the topic
Note!
When performing work, you need to consider what blowtorch is a source of increased fire hazard. Consequently, during its repair primary means fire extinguishing equipment must be located in close proximity to you.
Household blowtorches are used to heat containers with non-flammable liquids, repair work, soldering and heat treatment. They are systematized by the type of fuel used - gasoline, gas and kerosene. Gas blowtorches or burners are considered the most modern and comfortable to use. But gasoline fans zealously defend their judgment.
Instructions
1. High-tech gas blowtorches combine ergonomic design and high safety in use. They can work independently from disposable gas cylinders and from refillable ones. Punctuatable cylinders without a valve are quite cheap. The body of the lamp itself can be plastic or metal.
2. Universal gas lamps They work on 2 types of cylinders and are connected to them using threads. Such equipment is super compact, which makes it very convenient for storage and transportation. Another advantage of a multifunctional lamp is the likelihood of disconnecting gas cylinder at any moment.
3. Pay attention to the high-tech lamps that operate on the new KEMAP valve cylinders. These aluminum-bodied cylinders contain a special mixture of liquefied petroleum gases (LPG) for high soldering performance. Previously, this was achieved only by using acetylene. If you are a skilled solderer and welder, a lamp running on these cylinders is your choice.
4. Eat gas-burners, which also operate from domestic propane cylinders. They are very strong, loyal and have versatility when choosing a gas source. For work, use a hose of any length. For roofing works pick up lamp, which is equipped with a long nozzle and a lever for rapidly increasing the flame.
5. For those who like to make new electrical appliances, there are gas micro-soldering irons, and the gas container is located inside them. Before use, it is filled with gas from a lighter can. This is also good idea for a gift to a man with skillful hands.
6. Gasoline blowtorches provide hefty high temperature heating - up to 1100 degrees. The strength of its flame can be easily adjusted. Lamps that run on kerosene and second-grade gasoline are used to heat huge soldering irons and to work with hard solders.
7. Both lamps have some pros and cons, but there is a wonderful solution - a multi-fuel universal burner. It runs on any type of fuel from diesel to gas, but such a unit costs about 6-7 thousand rubles.
Energy-saving lamps are designed for lighting not only residential premises, but also social institutions. Their difference from other lamps lies in the content of 5 mg of mercury in the form of vapor, which, if not properly disposed of and processed, poisons the soil and air, which leads to irreversible consequences for human health and environment. Therefore, all users of energy-saving lamps should know the methods of their disposal.
Instructions
1. Burnt out energy-saving lamps take it to the regional DEZ or REU, where containers specially prepared for this must be installed. And from there they are sent to special enterprises, the main activity of which is the processing of energy-saving lamps.
2. If there are a lot of lamps, which is important for offices and enterprises, then it is best to conclude an agreement with a company that is engaged in the reception and subsequent disposal of waste containing mercury.
3. It is advisable to return energy-saving lamps in their original packaging. If it is not preserved, wrap the lamp in paper so that it does not break during transportation.
4. If a lamp breaks, then its fragments cannot be swept away with a broom or collected with a vacuum cleaner, so as not to disperse harmful mercury vapor throughout each apartment. Treat the area where the lamp was broken with a freshly prepared solution of potassium permanganate to bind mercury. After this, thoroughly ventilate the room in order to completely get rid of mercury fumes. Collect the remains of the lamp in a glass container, which will then need to be tightly closed with a lid, and hand it over to a specialized organization.
5. Disposal of energy-saving lamps is carried out in two ways. One of them is to wash, crush and further treat the used lamp with special chemicals that combine mercury into a no longer dangerous compound. Another method is thermal. A previously broken lamp is heated, resulting in the evaporation of mercury. Its vapors are condensed and collected in order to be used in the manufacture of new lamps.
Note!
The main thing to remember is that energy-saving lamps cannot be thrown into a garbage chute or container near your home.
Helpful advice
Mercury-containing waste, including energy-saving lamps, is disposed of, isolating it from the environment. It is under no circumstances possible to do this on your own.
The UV lamp is prepared for health-improving procedures. Ultraviolet irradiation has a positive effect on the processes occurring in the body, and also helps to improve the condition of certain diseases.
Instructions
1. The UV lamp is used to increase the body's resistance to infections (flu, ARVI, etc.), for the prevention and treatment of rickets in pregnant and lactating women, and children. It is used to treat pyoderma, pustular diseases of the skin and subcutaneous tissue, improve recovery processes in fractures, normalize immunity in chronic inflammation, stimulate hematopoiesis (the process of hematopoiesis), and compensate for lack of sun.
2. Dosed irradiation with a UV lamp has a positive effect on the body. The procedure regulates blood circulation, accelerates metabolism, increases immune activity, and promotes the functioning of protective mechanisms during epidemics of viral infections. The UV lamp has a negative effect on the retina of the eyes, so the procedure must be carried out with special glasses. Instead, you can place cotton pads on your eyelids. Some people, due to the characteristics of their body, are not able to tolerate unnatural radiation; therefore, their condition must be monitored during the procedure. UV therapy sessions are not suitable for people who experience dizziness, headaches, nervous irritation, etc. during irradiation.
3. Before the session, moderately treat the skin with cream or oil, apply it in a thin, even layer. Turn on the lamp and wait 5 minutes for it to warm up. Position work surface device at a distance of 10-50 cm from the body surface. If you need to carry out local irradiation of the skin, limit the diseased area from healthy ones using a towel or sheet. For local irradiation (say, the mucous membranes of the nose, throat), before turning on the lamp, install a special tube in the hole in the device screen.
4. The 1st session should last no more than 1 minute, after which you can begin to gradually increase the duration of the procedures up to 5 minutes. In order to prevent ARVI influenza, carry out ultraviolet irradiation of the mucous membranes of the nose and throat for 1 minute on each area. Every 3 days, increase the duration of the session by 1 minute until you reach 3 minutes. The course consists of 10 procedures. During the acute stage of the disease, irradiation is not carried out. Contraindications to the use of a UV lamp are the following ailments: severe kidney damage, heart damage with circulatory failure in the 3rd stage, coronary artery disease, stage II-III hypertension, severe exhaustion, tendency to bleed, anemia, skin diseases, hyperthyroidism. The UV lamp is not designed for tanning.
Video on the topic
Note!
Follow safety rules when operating and repairing a blowtorch.
Helpful advice
If the condition of the cuff on the rod is unsatisfactory, then be sure to replace it with a new one.
Repairing blowtorches widely used in everyday life is quite possible on our own. The device is intended for soldering metal parts, it is also used to remove paint coatings from the metal surface. Only a working blowtorch should be used, so the device should always be maintained in working order. If a sudden breakdown occurs, you can quickly repair the lamp yourself and continue working.
Why might a lamp fail?
The device is used for rapid local heating and experiences significant loads that can damage it. To prevent serious damage when using a lamp, you must follow safety rules.
Lamps break due to improper use and overheating.
When the appliance is switched on or has not cooled down, do not fill it with fuel or open the lid of its reservoir. It is also necessary to ensure the tightness of the valves and connections of the pump. Correct operation will allow you to avoid complex repairs or purchasing a new device.
Even if you comply preventive measures breakdown may still occur. Therefore, it is advisable to always have on hand the minimum set of tools necessary for repairs. You need to know the device and weak spots device, which will allow you to quickly and efficiently repair a blowtorch. Only after accurately identifying the malfunction and finding out the cause of the breakdown can you begin to self-repair tool.
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Restoring the pump
If hissing or other extraneous sounds appear during operation, you must immediately turn off the lamp, as the operation of the pump may be disrupted. In such a situation, you need to restore stable supply fuel. For repairs you will need tools:
- pliers;
- screwdriver.
Materials:
- spring;
- lubricating oil.
Perform the following actions:
- Unscrew the plug located on the lid and remove the pump from the cylinder.
- Use a screwdriver to dismantle the spool on the valve.
- The element is cleaned of contaminants and the spring is replaced.
- The areas where the pump and housing meet are lubricated with engine oil.
- Assemble the lamp, following the reverse procedure for installing the pump.
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Troubleshooting fuel and air supply problems
To repair a blowtorch you will need a screwdriver, pliers, and thin wire.
If fuel does not flow correctly when the valve is opened, for example, it foams or leaks through the base of the nozzle, the jet may be clogged. Then you should repair the blowtorch using the following tools:
- needle or thin wire;
- straight screwdriver;
- pliers.
Materials:
- petrol.
Repairs are carried out by performing the following steps:
- If there is a slight blockage, use a needle to clean the calibration hole of the fuel tube.
- If there is no result, the nozzle is dismantled.
- Then the wire is inserted into the hole in the fuel pipe.
- Then open the valve and thoroughly and carefully flush the channel with gasoline.
- Assemble the lamp by mounting and fixing the jet.
- If a flame appears from under the stem, the fire should be extinguished immediately.
- Then the valve handle with the plug is removed and the stuffing box in the intake needle is replaced.
The lamp's air pressure level inside the chamber may be disrupted. In order to repair the device, remove carbon deposits from the channels used for air supply by washing them with trichlorethylene. Then it is advisable to wash all holes with acid and blow with compressed air to remove rust. After this procedure, the device for a long time will not require repair.
Furnaces and boilers operating on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating devices. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?
The principle of operation of a conventional blowtorch is to ignite gasoline vapors expelled by compressed air out. This effect is achieved by forcing air into the burner fuel tank.
What happens if you pour used oil into a blowtorch?
The oil itself, even under pressure, does not evaporate well - it needs to be heated. Due to poor atomization, the flame will be uneven and it will be difficult to ignite the burner. Oil burns with formation large quantity carbon deposits and soot, so the jet will quickly coke, its cross-section will decrease, and the lamp will fail. Increasing the cross-section of the nozzle will also not give the expected effect - the oil will be sprayed in large drops, which will not allow obtaining a uniform flame of the torch.
In addition, used oil often contains impurities: diesel fuel, gasoline, antifreeze and even water, which can lead to flashes inside the lamp. To use waste as fuel for a blowtorch, you will have to install a filtration system, which will further complicate the task.
Considering all the difficulties, using a gasoline blowtorch as a burner during mining is difficult and unsafe. Therefore, it is necessary to modify or completely change its design.
How to make a burner for mining yourself
For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapor with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs.
An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.
Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch
The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination in this case special significance does not, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.
Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.
The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:
- The Babington burner consists of several functional blocks:
- Fuel - tank, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
- Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
- A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
- A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.
The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency. To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wound around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating.
The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.
Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:
- a wide selection of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food production waste;
- the presence of impurities in the fuel;
- simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.
Flaws:
- difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
- smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
- The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.
DIY Babington burner
You can assemble the burner with your own hands from simple components, for this you will need:
- A hollow ball or hemisphere with such a wall thickness that you can drill a hole with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm. You can use any metal objects similar configuration, for example, brass door handle spherical shape, nuts with plugs. The main condition is the possibility of reliable fastening of the air duct.
- Metal tube for supplying compressed air from the compressor, diameter - 10-15 mm.
- A compressor, for example, from a refrigerator, with an operating pressure of 2 atm, a maximum pressure of 4 atm.
- Fuel tank with a built-in heating element of 0.5-1 kW made of non-corrosion metal.
- Fuel sump and pipe to drain excess oil back into the tank.
- Copper tube, diameter - 10 mm, wall thickness - 1-1.5 mm for the fuel channel.
- Oil pump from a car or motorcycle with an electric motor to drive the pump. It is advisable to equip the pump with a filter with a large mesh at the inlet.
- The nozzle is a 200-400 mm long nozzle with an external thread of 2 inches.
- Crosspiece for two-inch metal pipe with internal thread.
- A 1" threaded drain and a 2/1" adapter to drain excess fuel into the sump.
- Adapters and fittings for connecting the fuel line, air duct and nozzle.
Preparing burner components for assembly
- The main and most important task is to make a hole of a given diameter in a spherical nozzle. The power of the burner depends on its size. For example, a boiler with a thermal power of 10-15 kW requires a burning torch obtained by operating a burner with one hole with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. To obtain more power there is no need to widen the hole - this will result in larger droplets. It is better to make 2-4 holes with a diameter of 0.1-0.3 mm with a distance between them of 8-10 mm, otherwise the torches will be mutually extinguished. Fuel consumption can be calculated as follows: through one hole of 0.25 mm, 2 liters of waste are sprayed per hour.
Video about how you can make small diameter holes in a metal hemisphere:
- The tank is made of corrosion-resistant metal. A heating element is built into it with a thermostat set to turn off the heating element at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius.
- It is necessary to make a fuel sump from the same material, equipped with a pipe with an overflow. Through this pipe, oil from the sump will flow back into the tank. To drain dirt from the sump, you can provide a plug in its bottom.
- Assemble the burner body: connect the nozzle from the squeegee to the 2-inch cross in the front part, then adapters: from the top for oil supply, from the back side for air. From below, a 2/1-inch adapter and a squeegee are connected to the crosspiece, through which excess oil will drain into the sump. Adapters are made from plugs with drilled holes, into which the fuel and air channel tubes are inserted.
The housing can also be made from a tee, in which the air duct is inserted into the upper part, having previously drilled a hole of the required diameter.
- The fuel line is made from copper tube, one end of which is wrapped three times around the nozzle, and then through a plug adapter is brought out into the housing in the upper part. The fuel pipe is connected to the pump, installed strainer rough cleaning and lead the other end of the tract into the tank. The fuel path can be equipped with a valve. The pump is connected to an electric motor operating from a 220 V network.
- An air duct made of a metal tube is attached at one end to a hemisphere with a hole, having previously installed a plug adapter at the required distance. The hemisphere should be positioned so that the oil from the fuel tube evenly flows onto the rounded part of the nozzle, and then into the lower part of the housing and into the sump. The other part of the air duct is connected to a compressor, which is also connected to a 220 V network.
- Since the installation will have as many as three consumers of electricity, which are not turned on simultaneously, it is advisable to equip the burner with a control panel: install a separate toggle switch or button to turn on the heating element and a separate toggle switch to turn on the compressor and pump. If desired, you can equip the remote control with a light signaling system made of diode lamps.
- You can equip the burner with a controller that automatically turns on the units in accordance with the selected mode. Electric ignition is realized using spark plugs, and to extinguish the burner it is enough to turn off the oil supply.
Video - burner assembly diagram:
Preparing fuel for the burner
Almost any waste oil can be used in a Babington burner. Automotive waste with a large number of foreign inclusions is filtered before being poured into the tank through a mesh and mixed with cleaner oil. Oils with a small amount of impurities can be poured without preparation.
When using food vegetable oils, for example, deep-frying, it is recommended to let it sit for several hours and carefully drain off the residue. These oils are quite fluid when normal temperature, so they can be heated in the tank only at the moment the burner starts. When using fuel oil and other thick materials, they must be heated to a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees, otherwise the pump will work with overload.
Security measures
- A burner using oils and other GSPs can be dangerous if installed and operated incorrectly. To avoid a fire, a number of measures must be observed:
- floors and walls made of flammable materials are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets;
- fuel reserves are stored at a safe distance;
- oil leaks must be removed in a timely manner;
- electrical elements of the installation must be carefully insulated to avoid sparking in the oil spray area;
- The burner must be placed out of reach of air currents and drafts.
The Babington burner, unlike a blowtorch converted to work in mining, is a reliable and durable unit that does not require complex maintenance. It is enough to periodically clean the fuel system, tank and sump, blow out the air duct in idle mode, and also monitor the serviceability of the compressor and oil pump. A working burner is a reliable and economical unit with long term services.
Hi all!
I came up with a mini blowtorch. To do this you need: 2 compasses, 1 tube from a dropper, glue gun, a needle from a syringe, a stand (I have the back cover from a broken multimeter), a candle and that’s it. Let's get started: you need to glue one compass onto the stand with hot glue.
We insert the tube from the dropper into the needle from the syringe and attach the compasses to each other as in the photo 
Now you can light a candle, alcohol lamp, or lighter. With the mouth of the head we blow into the tube from the dropper and bring the needle to the flame (in my case, a candle) to get what is in the photo. The flame should be blue. The flame in the photo is yellow, because the camera does not see blue flame, but it sees this one. The yellow flame smokes a little on the object you are working on, the blue flame does not smoke at all. If you blow weakly, you get a yellow flame; if you blow harder, you get a blue flame. The candle flame must be smoky, the candle wick should be about 1 cm. 
In this photo, the wire is heated red hot in 2-3 seconds. 
This can also be used to solder small objects, boards, and SMD components.
Okay, back to the microscope, I made a burner to melt the glass and make a lens for it. I used glass from the center of an incandescent lamp as glass, this piece of glass holds the filament. The candle needle should be placed near the wick. The glass melts (well, it melts like plasticine) in about a minute and a half. Be careful, the glass is very hot. Here is a photo of that lens. 
The microscope didn't work. Well, if it didn’t work, it partially earned. The magnification is greater than a regular magnifying glass, but the onion cells are not visible, the pixels of the tablet screen are visible. It was written there that you need to bring it close to your eye, but this way it merges into one spot and in order to see something you need to move it away by 10-25 cm.
In principle, it is possible without compasses and a stand, but then you have to hold the needle with your hand, your hand gets tired very quickly. And to work, you often need 2 hands.
Well, in general, the microscope did not work for me personally. But I got a mini blowtorch and learned how to bend glass. This blowtorch can also melt thin wires; I personally melted wires up to 0.2 mm. 
OK it's all over Now. Thanks everyone for watching.
With the arrival of cold weather, the issue of heating rooms became acute again. What to do when you need to heat a garage, warehouse, basement or any other room quickly and without hassle? One author developed for these purposes interesting device, allowing you to quickly solve problems. A conventional blowtorch will be used as the basis for generating heat. Take a closer look at how you can assemble such a device with your own hands and forget about the cold.
Materials and tools for making a cannon:
- blowtorch (preferably like the author’s);
- drill with drills;
- Bulgarian;
- metal plates (thickness 2 mm, length 15-20 mm, and width depending on the size of the lid body);
- welding;
- refilling freon cylinders (to create a housing);
- folding fan;
- marker, ruler and other small things;
- a piece of iron pipe (according to the diameter of the lamp ejector).
Gun manufacturing process:
Step one. Disassembling the lamp
First you need to take a blowtorch and disassemble it. For homemade work, you only need an ejector, that is, a device that emits a flame. You will also need an adjustment valve. Next, in order to connect a hose to the ejector, you need to attach an adapter to it. The author makes it from a piece of copper tube. It is important to understand that during operation of the lamp the ejector will heat up to 1200 C, so it will not be possible to place the tube on the glue. At a minimum, you need to use a soldering iron for these purposes, but it is best to use gas or electric welding.
Step two. Refinement of the ejector
Now you will need to do a little work with the drill. The fact is that to start the burner, the diameter of the nozzle hole needs to be made larger. For these purposes, the jet must be drilled out with a 1.5 mm drill. To do this, it is turned out and clamped in a vice. The main thing is to make the hole clearly in the center, otherwise the burner will not work correctly.
Step three. Making a burner extension
Next, you need to find a piece of iron pipe; its diameter should be such that it fits the outlet of the blowtorch. Next, take a grinder and use it to make longitudinal slits in the pipe, then metal plates are inserted into these niches. The author has four of them. Welding is used to fix the plates. The thickness of the plates should be about 2 mm, the length about 20 mm, and the width depends on the diameter of the gun body cover.
Step four: assembly and testing of the gun
On final stage The extension for the burner is welded to the lamp. Next, you can begin assembling the case gas gun.
To mount the fan, the author used a housing from a gas station freon cylinder, it was he who was the best fit for the diameter of the structure. As a result, the system will consist of two parts. One will have a fan, and the other will have a burner with an extension cord and three outlets warm air.
If you need to remove heat to a specific place, then you can weld a piece of pipe to the structure and put a corrugation on it. After manufacturing the housing, an extension cord is inserted into it and secured with a clamp.