Homemade seeder with your own hands for precision seeding drawing. Homemade manual seeder: nuances of accurate and simple sowing

A manual seeder is a convenient and simple sowing unit used by small farmers, owners of summer cottages and personal plots. Having simple settings and used for sowing vegetable and herbal crops, it can be either purchased at a specialized store or made independently.

Description

The simplest single-row manual seeder consists of precision seeding from the following parts:

Funnel-shaped seed hopper with a capacity of up to 1 liter (1-1.5 kg);
2 support drive metal wheels with lugs, with protrusions 1-3 cm high;
A sowing hub (drum) with holes with a diameter of 3-5 mm, located on the same shaft with the drive wheels;
Wedge-shaped vomer;
Attachments for cuttings in the form of a tube screwed into the front of the seed hopper.

In addition to this simple design, there is also another, more advanced and reliable one. The single-row model of such a seeder consists of:

Rectangular frame;
Seed hopper with a capacity of up to 2 liters with a tight-fitting lid;
The sowing unit is a bushing mounted on a shaft with an asterisk for chain transmission. In this case, the size of the holes on the bushing ranges from 3-4 to 16-18 mm;
A coulter with a harrow installed behind it for filling a furrow with seeds placed in it;
Front drive wheel;
Drive chain mounted on the sprockets of the front wheel and seeding unit;
A wide rear press wheel with a bracket for cleaning it from dirt and sticky wet soil;
Markers for adjusting row spacing;
Split handle with length adjustment.

Such seeders are used to sow such vegetable crops, How:

Eggplant;
Peas;
Carrot;
Cucumber;
Pepper;
Parsley;
Radish;
Beet;
Tomatoes;
Beans.

Also, with the help of such seeders, you can sow honey-bearing grasses in rows: alfalfa, sweet clover.

Manual seeder

Important! To sow non-standard seeds, many practical gardeners buy bushings without any recesses and make holes of the appropriate diameter in them themselves.

Among the types of manual seeders described above, the first ones are used for sowing small beds small-seeded crops in greenhouses and greenhouses, while the more productive latter ones are used for sowing large-seeded vegetable crops in open ground.

Principle of operation

The mechanical seeder works for precision seeding in the most simple type in the following way:

A sowing bushing with holes for a specific crop is installed on the drive shaft
Seeds are poured into the hopper;
Using a marker (for seeders of the second type described above), the row spacing is set
The seeder is installed at the beginning of the first row of the sown area;
The seeder is set in motion with a smooth and jerkless movement;
The process of sowing seeds, hidden from the human eye, occurs as follows: each seed fits tightly into a hole in the bushing, then when it rotates, it falls into a groove made by a harrow and is filled up.
If there is a press wheel at the back of the seeder, installed exactly in the center of the row being sown, the soil above the seeds is thoroughly compacted. This improves contact seed material with soil, accelerates its germination, absorption by the sprout and its root system nutrients and moisture
When working with such a unit, the sower must periodically check the amount of seeds in the hopper, filling it with new ones if necessary.
After sowing is completed, the remaining seeds are poured out of the hopper, the sowing hub, coulter, harrow, and support wheels are removed and cleaned. The drive chain and sprockets are periodically lubricated with special lubricant.

Important! When operating the seeder, it is necessary to check the coulter, which can become clogged with grass or wet soil. If such an operation is not performed, gaps may appear - unseeded places that can only be discovered when seedlings appear.

When operating the seeder, it is necessary to check the coulter

Characteristics

The manual precision seed drill has the following characteristics:

Number of sowing units (rows) – y modern models it ranges from 1 to 5-7;
Type of sowing device - bushing or brush;

Important! The brush sowing unit consists of a drum with brushes and a calibration disk installed outside the hopper. The principle of its operation is as follows: when the drum with brushes rotates, the seeds fill the space between them and are pushed out into a certain hole in the calibration disk, installed opposite the exit window of the sowing apparatus.

Type of harrow - plate harrows are installed on most manual seeding devices;
The type of opener is wedge-shaped (pointed);
Working width – in multi-row (2 or more row seeders) this characteristic on average is 7-8 cm. In single-row units, the row spacing is adjusted by changing the length of the marker and can be up to 50-60 cm;
Seed sowing depth – from 1 to 5 cm;
Capacity (volume) of the seed hopper – the seed hopper of various units can hold from 0.4-0.5 to 2 liters of seed material;
Type of rotation transmission from the drive wheel(s) to the sowing unit - direct (the sowing units are located on the same axis with the drive wheels) or chain (the sowing unit is connected to the drive wheel through two sprockets and a chain);
The recommended speed of the seeder is 3-4 km/h;
Productivity – from 2-3 to 10-12 hundred parts/hour.

Important! When you type in a search for this unit, the service often gives an option such as “sequivalley seeder” in the search prompt. Following this prompt will not bring any benefit to the user, as it relates to the field of dating, erotic videos, and photographic materials for adults.

Manual precision seed drill

Adjustment

In manual seed drills, before sowing the following settings are performed:

Seeding rates;
Seed placement depths;
Row spacing.

These settings are very important for quality sowing.

Seeding rate

Seed rate accuracy various types sowing units are regulated in their own way:

In bush sowing devices, the seeding rate is regulated by selecting a bushing with the corresponding holes and the pitch between them;

Important! In order to make a bushing with non-standard holes and pitch, you can buy a blank and, having marked it according to the given parameters, make recesses (holes for seeds) of the required diameter.

In brush sowing devices, the seed sowing rate is adjusted using a calibration disk with holes. The seeding rate is regulated by installing a corresponding hole on the calibration disk opposite the outlet window of the sowing apparatus.

Planting depth

The depth of seed placement is adjusted in seeders with a chain drive of the sowing apparatus. The adjustment process occurs as follows:

The seeder is installed on a flat area;
Place a board under the rear press wheel with a thickness equal to the planned sowing depth;
Using the adjusting bolts, the coulter is lowered until it touches the floor. In this case, it is not the tip of the opener that should touch the floor, but its entire lower plane.

Row spacing

The row spacing is adjusted by changing the distance between the sowing units or extending the marker. The latter option is more convenient and allows you to create large row spacing when sowing, for example, a crop such as corn.

Manufacturers

Among the manufacturers of manual seeders, the most famous brands are:

"ROSTA";
"GARDENA";
SOLO.

Do-it-yourself manual seeder

You can make a homemade precision seeder with your own hands using the following technology:

A seed hopper of the required volume with a lid is made from tin;
A hole is made in the lower part of the bunker for the shaft of the sowing apparatus;
Two bearings are welded to the outside of the hopper on both sides. They are welded in such a way that the center of their inner diameter coincides with the center of the hole for the sowing apparatus shaft.
An asterisk is welded to a metal axle 4-5 cm longer than the seeding wheel. On the other side of the shaft, a hole is made for a stopper - a cotter pin.
A seed box with a coulter from an old pneumatic seeder is attached to the bottom of the bunker;
Cooked from a corner or plates rectangular frame with two crossbars. The short end sides are not welded.
A convenient two-horned handle with length adjustment is welded to the frame;
A wheel from a clamshell bicycle with an asterisk is mounted in the front part of the frame;
A wide metal wheel is attached to the rear of the frame;
The hopper with the seed box and coulter is welded to the frame crossbars;
From round section from ebonite or dense plastic blanks, sowing bushings with holes for various cultures. A hole of the same diameter as the driven shaft with the sprocket is drilled in the center of the resulting bushing.
The sleeve is inserted into the neck of the hopper, a shaft with an asterisk is passed through it, which is locked with a cotter pin from the outside;
A chain is put on the sprockets of the seeding unit shaft and the drive wheel;
Before starting work, the chain and sprockets are lubricated with a special lubricant.

Important! You can make a spacious and convenient seeder from a separate section of an old corn or vegetable seeder. To do this, you need to make a handle in the rear part and install a wheel with a sprocket in the front part of the section and connect it with a chain to the shaft of the sowing device. Due to its heavy weight, such a seeder is not convenient for a girl, a physically weak teenager, or an old man. At the same time, its reliability and durability will be many times higher than that of other homemade analogues.

Manual seeder for vegetables and small seeds (grass and lawn mixtures) – convenient device, which will greatly facilitate the sowing campaign both small area either in a greenhouse or on medium-sized plots where there are no entrances for tractors. Anyone in the household can use such a seeder, even a teenager. It has no dangerous moving parts and is easy and time consuming to set up. This technique is economically beneficial - each vegetable grown using it will have less labor and cost compared to manual sowing.

Every gardener knows how important it is to sow seeds on time and at the same time correctly. This matter is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. If you have to sow large areas and as quickly as possible, then the usual pain in the lower back will not be enough. Here you also need to remember about the seeds themselves, especially if they were purchased in limited quantities. And in order to solve this problem, I suggest the reader to make a simple design, so to speak, a seeder from scrap material.

This seeder is made from an ordinary plastic can (from fish) mounted on a wooden handle.

But let's talk about everything in order. I took a plastic jar because it was perfect for this task. Firstly, it is easy to work with, and secondly, it is transparent, you can see how many seeds are left in it. Well, the most important detail is that it is light.

To begin with, I drilled a through hole exactly in its center; later a bolt will be inserted into it, on which the can itself will rotate.

Then he removed the cover on the side of the axle hole, cut a triangular slit (window) - the seeds will be poured into it. Well, to close it, I cut out the same triangular strip from a metal can, only a little larger. Using a homemade rivet made of aluminum wire, I secured this metal strip to the lid of the jar at the location of the window - the result was a closing structure. Now the seeds will not spill out of the jar during operation.

In the center of the jar (under the lid), inserted a small scrap plastic pipe, its length is exactly the depth of the jar. Thus, “killing two birds with one stone” - the tube will not allow the seeds to spill out, and at the same time will not allow the jar to shrink inward when the bolt is inserted and tightened.

After the manipulations were done, I picked up a metal tube so that it would fit into the plastic one, cut it to the thickness of the can - it turned out to be something like a bearing. Now you can insert a long bolt of suitable thickness into the scrap and tighten it with a nut. But for better fixation, you need to put two washers on both edges of the can. Now our can rotates freely on the bolt.

Well, the last thing you need to do on the plastic jar is the holes through which the seeds will spill out. To do this on end side jars, I put marks every three centimeters and with a hot nail, I burned holes in it exactly in the center. Here you need to consider what fraction of seeds you will sow; if the holes are large, small seeds will fall out more densely.

Now the seeder is almost ready.

All that remains is to place the jar on a wooden handle of the required length. Having drilled a hole for the bolt at the end of the handle, I decided to play it safe and inserted a piece of metal tube into it (into the hole). In order for the bolt to rotate without any hitches.

Well, in order to completely “automate” the process, the resulting seeder needs a little addition.

Having cut out a strip of metal as shown in the photo and attaching a strip of fastening to it with rivets, I made a so-called “filler” of earth. And secured it on the handle above the can. Now you need to bend it as it is more convenient for you, and the earth itself will be covered with the sown seeds.

By the way, instead of such a filler, you can attach a small piece of chain to the handle, such as is used to tie dogs. Only the chain should be a bit heavy.

The principle of operation is this: make a row with a hoe, as you usually sow seeds. You insert the seeder into the row and drive it to the end of the row - and that’s it, move on to the next row. With this operating principle, seed savings are obvious. Which is very positive for business and your wallet. Good luck!

A good man will always press the button

The greatest difficulty for summer residents is planting small-seeded crops. This includes flowers, lawn grass, and vegetables. Here it is not enough to put the seeds into the ground; you need to place them at the same distance, otherwise the similarity will be poor.

For a long time, the following method of planting such plants was used: rolled out toilet paper, the seeds were glued on and the roll was rolled back. Then on summer cottage, the procedure was repeated in reverse order.

Nowadays, a manual seeder is used for planting small-seeded crops. Some believe that such units are much inferior to their mechanical counterparts. However, it is not. Hand tools show good results on small areas, with complex geometry and relief.

Varieties

Hand-held devices are divided into two types: spreaders and spot planting equipment.

Spreaders

The first type is divided into two categories - manual and mechanical models.

A hand spreader is usually made of durable plastic and has a built-in distributor. To introduce seeds into the soil, you need to twist the handle of the device.
- It is worth noting that such models provide for adjustment of the diameter of the seed tube. Accordingly, the product turned out to be universal; it can be used not only for planting seeds, but also for introducing granular fertilizers into the soil.
Mechanical models need to be pushed in front of you. They are equipped with a chassis, but there is no engine. This feature classifies such seeders as manual modifications. Mechanical seeders are equipped with one or more seed hoppers. The seed fund is planted by pressing a button on the handle.

Both options are designed for maximum performance. However, given that the seeds fall unevenly, germination leaves much to be desired. If we are talking about a lawn, then such models are optimal solution. And for planting vegetable crops, you will have to look for other options.

Precision seeding technology

When planting vegetables, a manual precision seeder is suitable. A special feature of such models is the mechanism for introducing seeds. It uses a shaft covered with small recesses and connected to the chassis by a drive.

During movement, the shaft rotates inside the bunker, the seeds, falling into the recesses, pass under the wall of the bunker and fall into the ground. Depending on the landing frequency, the shaft may have several rows of recesses.

Precision seeding units have a number of advantages:

Seeds are introduced into the ground evenly, which ensures high percent germination of plants.
A well-thought-out dispenser mechanism eliminates seed loss.
The risk of seed damage is reduced.
The seed fund falls to a given depth. In addition, some models are equipped with a falling asleep device, which reduces the work process.

Manual seeders can be used for a variety of bulk materials. For example, filling paths with sand in winter and scattering fertilizers for agricultural crops. This makes it possible to use the product all year round.

Do it yourself

Making a manual seeder with your own hands is quite simple. As you may have noticed, there are no complex elements in the design, so many summer residents do not spend money on factory models, but quite successfully use homemade mechanisms.

Here is an example assembly diagram.

First you need to make a seed box. Boards 15-20 mm thick are suitable for this. The walls of the bunker are made from boards. To secure the connection, you can use spikes or metal corner. The bottom is made of sheet iron, 1-1.5 mm thick.
Wooden plates with a semicircular cutout are installed on the side walls. They will be needed to install the seeding roller. Racks for installing coulters are mounted to these pads.
To make a sowing roller, a steel roller with a diameter of about 40 mm is used. Holes of different diameters are drilled on the surface of the roller. The holes are arranged three in a row. The roller is fixed in bearings and secured with stoppers.
Wheels from a baby stroller are suitable for making the chassis. Recommended wheel diameter is about 200 mm. If you use wheels of a smaller radius, the device will get stuck on the beds. The openers are attached to the posts. These elements can be made from sheet metal.

Such homemade unit in no way inferior to factory analogues. You can assemble the device from any available materials.

The problem of sowing vegetable crops, especially beets, affects all gardeners. Seeds planted by hand do not always grow in a row, and endless tugging in your area not only harms the root system, but also increases nervous condition. The solution to the problem was an ordinary manual seeder, which will help you plant an even bed in a short time.

A manual beet seeder makes the gardener’s work much easier

Advantages of a manual seeder

If we look at it in detail similar device, you will find that a manual seeder has a number of advantages over other sowing methods, such as:

uniform distribution of seeds along the length of the bed;
beet seeds are sown in a certain amount per 1 square meter;
uniform sowing depth;
the seeds are not damaged.

A manual seeder allows for uniform planting

What is a hand seeder

In terms of mechanical parameters, a manual seeder is no different from a conventional one. The design consists of a rotating sleeve with small recesses into which beet seeds are poured. Moving, the seeder throws seeds into the furrow. The density of the sown area depends directly on the distance at which the seeds are located from each other in the recesses.

There are many types of seeders. Their difference lies in the methods of sowing seeds. But the principle of operation is the same for all, based on the fact that torque is transmitted between the wheel and the shaft. There are recesses on the shaft that act as seed dispensers, and its top is adjacent to the container with the material that is being distributed. The bushings located on the shaft are the size of the diameter of the largest seed. To create a furrow, small plows are used for each row with a step similar to the distance between the sowing bushings located on the shaft.

There are many types of seeders, including wooden ones

Self-design of a seeder

In order to make a seeder with your own hands, you will need to find required material. One of simple designs includes the following necessary components:

an axle with two wheels firmly attached;
the drum is taken by the dispenser;
seed storage;
pusher, in the form of a long handle, designed to make movements of the seeder.

One version of the homemade planter uses steel wheels. Basic steps for assembling the structure:

Take a two-millimeter a metal sheet, and two even disks with a diameter of 26 cm are cut out.
24 cuts are made on the wheels on each side of the perimeter, with a 1 cm deepening, after which the petals are bent at an angle of 90 degrees.
A hole is drilled in the middle of each disk, which is intended for the axle.
Instead of a drum that plays the role of a dispenser, you can use an old pulley from any washing machine.
Recesses intended for dropping out beet seeds are drilled in the pulley evenly along the entire length with a distance of 0.3 cm from each other.
The recess is made based on the largest grain, its size is 0.2 cm.
The axle is connected to tightly secured wheels and a pulley.
For making a handle wooden will do a rod with a diameter of 1.2 cm. A thread is made on one side of the rod and a nut number 17 is screwed onto it. Two plates prepared in advance rectangular shape in a ratio of 10 to 1.2 cm are welded to the nut. Each plate must have a through hole with a diameter of 1.2 cm and a shaft is threaded through them on both sides. Finally, the side of the plate that is left loose is welded to the nut on the handle.
The storage for seeds is easiest to solder from a thin sheet of tin, to which ears are attached by soldering for a strong connection with the pusher. Screws are used as fasteners. It is also necessary to solder the triangular brackets and the handle for a strong connection to the storage using bolts. The part located at the bottom of the storage should be tapered, tightly fitting the pulley. At this point the work is completed and the simplest manual seeder is ready for use.

Seeder elements: 1) seed hopper, 2) drive wheel, 3) row marker, 4) pressure wheel, 5) chain, 6) handles, 7) coulter, 8) seed adjustment, 9) raker

Technological assembly of a seeder for small beds

What to do if there is no need for a large seeder? After all, the plots of many gardeners are not large in size. For such situations, there is the following option. The design of the seeder is intended for small beds, the length of which is one meter. To make the device you will need the following tools:

Electric drill with a set of drills.
Rubber or wooden mallet.
Pliers.
An engineering protractor, if you don’t have one, you can use a regular one. Epoxy resin is used as a thickener.

To construct a seeder of this type, the following spare parts must be available:

Hollow metal pipe, it is advisable to use steel, as it is stronger than other available metals. The length of the pipe should be half the length of the bed, and have a diameter of 5 cm.
A rod made of plastic or wood, the length of which exceeds the length of the pipe by more than 10 cm, but less than 15 cm. The diameter of the rod should be 1 mm less than inner diameter pipes. If you don’t have plastic or wood at hand, then any easily processed material will serve as a rod.
Bearings in the amount of 2 pieces.
Wheels whose diameter does not exceed 25 cm. A good option Wheels from a tricycle will serve.
Storage made of plastic material. For convenience, you can attach several pieces to the pipe.
A wooden beam, the cross-section of which is 7 to 3 cm, a lath, galvanizing strips, with a width in the range of 0.8–1.5 cm.

Seeder for small beds

Build process:

Bearings are attached to the rod. One of them is attached in the central part, the rest are at the ends of the tube into which the rod is inserted.
The assembled structure is placed on wheels. After fixing on the top of the tube, markings are made under through holes made with a drill. Drilling locations are selected based on the planned distance between seed locations.
A 2.5 mm drill is attached to the drill, and holes are made on top of the pipe. After all the holes have been made, a rod is selected from the inside of the pipe not exceeding 2.5 mm in depth. The procedure for turning the rod is carried out by 45 degrees, after which the recess is selected again. A similar procedure is repeated seven times, taking into account that the distribution of holes on the rod should occur evenly. If desired, the landing step can be reduced by reducing the degree of rotation of the rod.
The drum rod located inside the tube is removed and a hole is drilled in its lower part using a 5 mm drill. When the hole is ready, the rod returns to its original place in the tube.
The storage for seeds, intended for their transfer to the dispenser, is attached to the upper area of the tube. To simplify the situation, we take several plastic bottles with a capacity of half a liter, in the lids of which holes are drilled with a 5 mm drill. After this, we connect the bottles with the tube so that the holes match. The handle for the seeder is made of wooden slats, which is attached in the middle assembled structure. The mounting location is calculated based on the sum of the length of the bar and one and a half diameter of the pipe. After substitution, 0.75 of the diameter is cut off. Based on the size of the pipe diameter, semicircles are selected for it, which must be secured to the handle on both sides using epoxy resin. The rail is galvanized and crimped tightly with pliers. With these simple steps you can design a seeder for small beds.

Considering the complexity of the process of sowing vegetable crops, a manual seeder will become a great assistant this is not an easy matter.

The simplicity of the designs and the need for a small amount of material, which is under the feet of every gardener, will make it possible to create such a useful device on the farm, which is much more useful than sowing beets by hand. No longer unnecessary hassle and worries about your harvest.

A handmade seeder made by yourself will help make it easier and faster to plant seeds in your garden or summer cottage.

This does not require any special materials or special skills, since a self-made sowing unit, in most cases, is a simple device.

1 Benefits of using a manual seeder

Manual labor on the land is always hard work. But, using simple devices, such as homemade seeders, you can turn it into pleasure.

Using a hand-made precision seeding seeder created by yourself, you can achieve the following:

the seeds will be evenly distributed on the beds, forming even rows;
the depth of placement in the soil will be the same for all seeds, which will allow seedlings to appear at the same time;
A homemade do-it-yourself precision seeder will allow you to form even row spacing and ensure an equal distance between future plants, and this will make caring for them easier in the future.

2 Options for homemade seeders

Everyone who is going to make a seeder with their own hands wants to reduce its cost as much as possible. Therefore, most often craftsmen They make those units that can be made from scrap materials.

2.1 The simplest manual seeder

2.2 Usage

For example, such a device can be used as a garlic seeder.

In the area allocated for this crop, furrows are laid using (as with conventional sowing). Then, a hand seeder is placed in the furrow and as it moves, the seeds are evenly distributed along the entire length of the future bed. While moving, the presence of a metal plate that covers the sown grains with soil will make it possible not to go through this area again.

The disadvantages of such a device include limited opportunity sowing (only one row) and sowing only one specific crop, since the seeds are not the same in size different plants. To eliminate this problem, several replacement jars should be used, with different opening sizes for each crop.

In the same way, you can make a lawn seeder with your own hands. The only difference is that wooden handle not one, but several (4 or 6) are attached plastic cans on both sides in equal quantities. Special seeding precision in in this case not needed, but uniform distribution of seeds lawn grass will be ensured with the capture of a larger area.

2.3 Universal hand seeder and its creation

More complex option self-made devices for sowing seeds, which allows you to work with any seed crops.

The main working mechanism is the sowing shaft, which is an aluminum tube with a diameter of 30 mm (plus/minus 2 mm). Holes of different diameters should be drilled in it (according to the size of the seeds different cultures) in three rows (each row for one crop).

The first row of 8 holes with a diameter of 4.5 mm is reserved for sowing such garden plants as parsley, carrots, sorrel, lettuce and others like them.

The second row with 16 holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm allows you to sow onions.

The third row, which consists of 5 holes with a diameter of 8.2 mm, is intended for sowing large seed crops (peas, beets, etc.).

In order to use one of the three rows during operation, the seeding shaft can be moved horizontally in relation to the loading hopper.

The seed hopper is made of sheet (preferably galvanized steel) 0.3-0.5 mm thick, in the form of a truncated inverted pyramid, the upper base of which is 80x70 mm and the height is 40 mm. The lower part of the hopper has an opening for passing seed material to the sowing shaft. There is also a brush located there that regulates the sowing density when moving it vertically relative to the sowing shaft.

To control the filling of the hopper, it is closed with a transparent lid made of plastic or plexiglass. The lid is also necessary to ensure that the seeds do not spill out when moving when the hopper is completely filled or are not blown away by the wind.

2.4 Application of a universal seeder

In the selected area, furrows are made in the soil along its entire length. Having set up the seeder, moving the brush to the position for one of the three rows, the hopper is filled with seed material.

Having placed the seeder wheels in the furrows, they begin sowing, moving it forward. The planting depth is adjusted by adjusting the immersion of the coulter into the ground. The most optimal depth for all seed crops is considered to be planting below the general soil level by 2.5-3 mm.

The advantages of a universal seeder include the ability to seed all types of plants and the ability to pass several rows at the same time.