Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. Homemade machines for home workshops Useful tools for plumbing work

This article discusses homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. Here we describe in detail the features of the most popular and necessary DIY tools, as well as tools for a workshop or garage, step-by-step technologies for their manufacture and other useful recommendations on this topic.

Many home workshop owners create the equipment they need with their own hands.

Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop: general information

Each owner of a garage or workshop, depending on his needs, selects the equipment himself. Many of them know how to make homemade machines and devices for garages, so they make do with their own resources when arranging the premises, customizing the technical features of the structures to suit themselves.

So, when creating metal drawings and the dimensions of the product on them can be adjusted to the parameters of the room and other conditions. Even for a small home workshop, you will need to allocate enough space to accommodate at least the design of a universal folding workbench and a minimum set of tools. The required area for this is at least 3-5 m².

Helpful advice! It is better to set up a workshop in a separate room so that the noise from the operation of a homemade wood grinder and other tools does not disturb the residents. A garage can be allocated for the placement of machines, the area of which is sufficient for comfortable work and installation of equipment.

Manufacturing of tools storage devices: shelves, racks

In fact, it is very difficult to achieve optimal operating conditions. It is desirable that the size of the room be at least 6.5 m. To equip a workshop, you can make an extension to the house or garage. This solution will be the most profitable in any case.

Before designing a drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands, which has the largest design (therefore its dimensions are taken into account first), it is worth deciding on some points:

indicate what types of work will be performed in the workshop;
determine a list of necessary tools and equipment.

By mounting the tool on the wall, you can significantly save useful space in the workshop. Shelves or racks are perfect for this. You can successfully arrange these structures, achieving the most rational distribution of area.

In order to save space, you can get a special device for a circular saw with your own hands, made on the basis of a conventional drill. Such a universal machine can perform several functions at once, combining the following capabilities:

circular saw;
grinding machine;
sharpened;
cutting machine.

The work table can be combined with a carpentry workbench and equipped with drawers to store small tools.

DIY tool shelves: popular designs

Metal structures are more durable and reliable, while wooden ones are affordable.
There are several options for rational storage of tools:

wall shelves;
DIY tool racks;
suspended ceiling shelves;
Shelves-boards for hanging small tools.

Helpful advice! The shield shelf is very convenient for metalworking and carpentry work. You can install holders or hooks for tools, small shelves or containers for fasteners on it. It is most advisable to hang such a structure over a folding carpentry workbench. You can even provide additional lighting. It is better to use a small lamp for this.

Technology for making a shelf for tools with your own hands (shield):

A shield is cut out of a plywood sheet, and the places where the shelves will be installed are marked on it.
Using a jigsaw, shelves with side walls are cut out. The length of these sides must match the length of the shield.
Shelves for tools are assembled and fixed to the surface of the shield using long self-tapping screws.
Hooks are being installed. Holes are made in the shield where dowels are installed. You need to screw special hooks equipped with threads into them. First, you should distribute the entire tool and mark the points where it will hang.
Brackets or lugs are installed on the rear wall of the structure.

All that remains is to fix the shield shelf on the wall. To prevent the lugs from sliding off the anchors, it is recommended to fix them with special washers.

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, videos, technology

The drawing of a carpentry workbench should include the following details:

Working surface - for its manufacture it is recommended to take a board 6 cm thick or more. Suitable wood species such as oak, hornbeam or beech. It is allowed to use several narrow boards pre-treated with drying oil.
A do-it-yourself homemade vice design is attached to the top cover, which should also be included in the drawing. If you intend to install a large-sized product, it is better to use wood for its manufacture. It is allowed to make and subsequently install small metalworking vices made of steel yourself.
Workbench supports can be made from linden or pine. A longitudinal connection in the form of strips must be installed between them. This will increase the stability of the table.
Shelves for storing tools - mounted under the workbench. Designs can be fixed or retractable.

Helpful advice! The linear parameter of the workbench can exceed 1 m. The increased size of the structure can be used to install two carpenter's vices with your own hands.

There are several modifications of workbenches:

mobile;
stationary;
folding (universal).

Having familiarized yourself with the structure of a carpentry workbench, you can begin to manufacture it.

Technology and drawings of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: how to make a simple design

Step-by-step technology for manufacturing the structure:

To make a lid for a wooden carpentry workbench, you will need to take thick boards. The size must be selected so that, as a result of their connection, a shield with parameters of 0.7x2 m is obtained (the length can be less than 2 m). Long nails should be used as fasteners, which must be driven in from the front side and bent from the back.
You can finish the lid by securing a beam with a section of 50x50 mm along its lower perimeter.
Depending on the size of the carpentry workbench (its cover), vertical supports are located. To make them, a timber (12x12x130 cm) is taken. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the height of the working surface, because it should be comfortable. The upper limit of the support should be at the level of your lowered arms. Subsequently, due to the installation of the cover, about 8-10 cm will be added to this indicator. Markings for installing the beams should be applied to the ground and these elements should be dug to a depth of 0.2-0.35 m.
Next, we install the frame part and the cover of the wooden workbench with our own hands. The installed support bars must be connected in pairs. For this, wide boards are used, fixed at a height of 0.2-0.4 m with long screws. The cover is secured to the ends of the supports using the same fasteners.

Note! Do not use nails to install the cover. During the process of driving them in, the frame part of the product may move.

Technology for making a universal wooden workbench with your own hands

Despite the fact that the technology for creating this design is in many ways similar to the previous version, for the manufacture of a composite carpentry workbench, drawings with dimensions will be required. But in this case, bolts are used instead of screws.

In addition, you can install drawers for storing tools in a folding universal workbench with your own hands.

Technology for making a folding workbench with your own hands:

Vertical supports are installed in a similar way and are connected to each other using horizontally located jumpers. Before installing the jumpers, grooves should be made on them for nuts and washers. To do this, it is better to use a hammer and chisel.
When the jumpers are set at the required level, through holes are made in the horizontal bar and the vertically installed support. The long bolt will be inserted here. On the side where there is a groove for fastening, put on a nut and washer, after which the element is tightened well.
You will need 2 horizontal jumpers for the frame part of a homemade carpentry workbench. on each of 4 sides. You will also need a couple of jumpers for installation under the work surface (in the center). The elements under the table top are designed for drawers. The distance between these jumpers must correspond to the size of the boxes.
Bolts are also used to fix the working surface. Mounting recesses are prepared at the ends of the supports, and holes for fastening are prepared on the tabletop. The bolts are installed so that their heads are recessed (1-2 mm).

Note! Drawings for a folding workbench are not as complicated as they might seem. The advantage of the design is that any damaged part can be easily replaced with a new one.

DIY carpenter's vice design for a workbench

Usually workbenches are equipped with a vice. Many garage workshop owners know how to make such a device with their own hands. For a homemade design you will need special studs. Such fasteners are sold in hardware stores.

To work, you will need a special screw pin. This threaded part is the main operating component of the structure. The minimum pin diameter is 2 cm, the cutting length is 15 cm. The longer this part is, the wider the vice can be spread. If you take into account exactly these dimensional parameters in the drawings of a vice with your own hands, you can get a design that is set apart by almost 8 cm.

The jaws of the tool are made from a pair of boards. One part of the part will be fixed. To make it you need to take pine. The second part measuring 2x1.8x50 cm will move. In each of these boards you need to make a hole for a screw. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 cm, holes for the studs are formed in all boards at the same time. To prevent the holes from moving relative to each other, you can connect them using nails.

After all the holes are made, the screw and all the studs are inserted into them along with the washer and nut.

Helpful advice! To be able to process workpieces of different sizes, you need to make the studs repositionable. You will need to make a couple of additional holes in each of the boards, located near the screw clamp.

Additionally, you can use the video material posted below to create a vice with your own hands.

Making a metal workbench with your own hands: how to make a metal structure

For plumbing work, it is better to make a metal workbench with your own hands, because a wooden one will not be suitable for this. The fact is that wood is not that durable. In addition, when working with metal workpieces, a tabletop made of this material will be constantly damaged and will quickly become unusable.

In the general drawing of a do-it-yourself bench, you can identify five main components of the design:

For longitudinal rigidity of the product, horizontal beams (3 pieces) measuring 6x4 cm are used. Length – slightly exceeds 2 m.
Rack-mounted small-sized beams (9 pcs.) made of profiled pipes measuring 6x4 cm. They are used to assemble the frame part of the cabinets. In the corner area there are welded spacers made of steel strips. Due to all these elements, the frame is rigid and very durable.
Rack beams (4 pcs.) 9-10 cm long (section 6x4 cm). To do this, it is better to use metal profile pipes with thick walls (more than 2 mm).
Corner No. 50 (4 pcs.), which will be used as vertical posts. The height of these elements is 1.7-2 m. Working tools will be attached here.

Dimensions of the bench:

Helpful advice! In order to make high-quality seams, it is recommended to use a carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine. Experienced craftsmen can use a pulse-type welding machine. If you lack skills in handling this tool, it is better to entrust the work to professionals.

Do-it-yourself workbench manufacturing technology: how to assemble

Making a universal workbench with your own hands begins with assembling the frame. To do this, you need to take a couple of short and a couple of long beams. During the welding process, these elements may become twisted.

To prevent this, you must:

Lay out the parts on a perfectly flat plane.
In the places where the connecting points are located (there are 4 of them), the beams are tacked using the spot welding method.
After this, all welding seams are fully completed. First on one side of the frame, then on its reverse side.

Then the rear vertical racks and the rear beam (long, one of three) are attached. You definitely need to check how evenly they are placed in relation to each other. If there are any deviations, the beams can be carefully bent using a hammer. At the end, the remaining vertical rack elements are assembled, as well as elements that provide rigidity.

When the frame is ready, corners can be welded to it to strengthen the structure. The tabletop is formed from wooden boards. They must first be soaked in a fire-resistant liquid. Then a sheet of metal is laid on top.

A plywood tool shield can be mounted on the vertical rack elements. The same material is used to sew up the cabinets. For boxes, you can use metal boxes or make wooden structures.

You can use the video below to understand in more detail the technology of making a workbench with your own hands:

Features of creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

In the technology of making a wood lathe with your own hands, the bed occupies a special place. The operation of other parts, as well as the stability of the entire structure, directly depends on this part. It can be metal or wood.

Helpful advice! To make a wood lathe with your own hands according to standard drawings, it is better to use an electric motor that can reach a speed of 1500 rpm. The optimal power indicator is 200-250 W. If you plan to process large workpieces, you can increase the power ratings.

To create a wood turning and copying machine with your own hands, you can use an old one that is no longer needed. This tool is placed on a plywood platform 1.2 cm thick and 20x50 cm in size. You must first make holes in it for fastening elements. Stops made of bars will also be mounted here. They are necessary to ensure that the cutter is in a fixed state. The router itself is secured with two nails between the clamps.

In fact, it is absolutely not difficult to make a copy design of a homemade wood lathe with your own hands - there are enough video materials on the Internet.

An example of a homemade wood lathe with your own hands

For the base, it is better to take a steel profile with thick walls. To make the structure reliable, it is recommended to use two supports. A frame will be installed on top of them. To fasten parts, a groove type of connection is used. First you need to make support platforms intended for the headstocks (rear and front).

List of parts for a wood lathe (it’s easy to understand how to assemble the structure yourself based on this list):

Power component - you can use an electric motor from an old pump or washing machine.
Headstock (rear) - a head from a drill with a high power reserve is suitable.
Headstock (front) - to organize this part, it is better to buy a factory spindle equipped with 3-4 pins. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to shift the workpiece relative to the rotational axis.
The supporting element - the table for incisors - can be of absolutely any configuration, the main thing is that it provides comfort during work.
Pulley - is a connecting element between the headstock and the shafts in the electric motor.

Note! To work with this design, you will need to purchase a set of factory cutters. If you have the right tool, you can make them yourself, but you will need tool steel.

As supporting information, you can use a video detailing this process to assemble a wood lathe with your own hands.

The second example of a DIY woodworking lathe

An alternative solution would be to make the design of a simple mini-wood lathe with your own hands based on an electric drill. This example of technology can be used as a test before building a more serious tool.

This type of machine is suitable for processing small-sized wooden workpieces. The material for the frame can be wooden beams. The return headstock can be replaced by a combination of a shaft mounted on a support bearing. To fix the workpiece you will need to get the appropriate one.

This design has its drawbacks, they are associated with:

high probability that errors will occur in milling;
low level of reliability;
inability to process large-sized wooden workpieces.

But you shouldn’t give up this option, because it forms the basis for technologies for creating more advanced and complex turning tools. To correctly calculate the design, determine for yourself the necessary operational properties and technical characteristics.

The principle of making cutters for a wood lathe

The technology in this case is complicated only by the correct choice of workpieces, which not only must have a level of cutting edge hardness that meets the requirements, but also be correctly installed in the clamp - the holder.

Note! In the absence of tool steel, you can make do with improvised means. After the preliminary preparation stage is completed, the material is further hardened.

The rods are steel reinforcement - it is better to use options that have factory original dimensions and a square cross-section.
Files or rasps - worn-out workpieces are suitable, but it is not allowed to use material with deep chips or cracks.
Automotive springs - before using these blanks they will need to be given a square shape, which not everyone can do. A welding machine is useful for this purpose. Autogen will also do.

Turning: A - with a semicircular blade for rough turning; B - with a straight blade for finishing turning; B - shaped; G - machine passage

The machine can provide the ability to change cutters. For this purpose, a special modification of the housing is made with the necessary mounting parts. These elements must be strong enough to withstand the loads during operation and at the same time maintain the original location of the edge part.

When the cutter is made, it is sharpened and the cutting edge is hardened. After the cutting part is heated, the cutter must be dipped into machine oil. Using slow hardening technology, the surface of the product can be made as hard as possible. In this case, the heated workpiece should cool naturally.

DIY knife sharpening devices: drawings and recommendations

To make a sharpener from a washing machine motor with your own hands, you can limit yourself to a motor from an old Soviet design, for example, SMR-1.5 or Riga-17. A power of 200 W will be enough, although you can increase this figure to 400 W by choosing a different engine option.

The list of parts needed for a DIY sharpening machine includes:

tube (to grind the flange);
a nut for fixing the stone on the pulley;

metal for making a protective casing for a sharpener with your own hands (thickness 2.-2.5 mm);
whetstone;
an electrical cable cord having a plug;
starting device;
a corner made of metal or a block of wood (for the frame).

The diameter of the flange must match the dimensions of the bushing on the motor. In addition, a sharpening stone will be placed on this part. On one side, this element is threaded. The indentation should be equal to the thickness of the circle multiplied by 2. The thread is applied with a tap. On the other hand, the flange must be pressed onto the motor shaft using heat. Fixation is carried out by bolting or welding.

Helpful advice! The thread should go in the opposite direction relative to the direction in which the engine rotates. Otherwise, the nut securing the circle will unwind.

The working winding of the motor is connected to the cable. It has a resistance of 12 ohms, which can be calculated using a multimeter. The starting winding for a DIY knife sharpener will have 30 ohms. Then the bed is made. It is recommended to take a metal corner for it.

Some people need . You can make such a structure with your own hands from a frame with 3 supports, two spindles, a stepper motor (2 kW) and pipes used as holders.

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw with your own hands

Creating a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands is the most important stage in creating the machine, since this structure will house the main parts of the equipment in the form of:

power unit;
control block;
cutting component;
other components.

The support bed on the hand tool table doubles as a guide for your DIY circular saw. It controls the direction in which the cut is made and fixes the workpiece.

The sawmill is a modification of the circular saw. The only difference is that the disk is located at the bottom. The design of the table for a circular saw with your own hands is assigned the function of a bed. The power unit, block, fixing disk and control system are also installed here.

At the design stage for DIY circular saw drawings, you should take into account some factors:

The depth to which the material will be cut depends on the geometry of the disk.
The power level of the electric motor - a specific indicator of 800 W will be sufficient.
Control system installation area - the control should be located as far as possible from the disk.
Rotational speed - the minimum acceptable value is 1600 rpm, otherwise color change will occur during the cutting process.

Helpful advice! If the table is made for a manual version of the tool, it is recommended to make the tabletop metal. The metal sheet should be equipped with stiffening ribs at the base.

How to make a circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

First, the tabletop is made from sheet material. Markings are applied to it in accordance with the dimensions of the instrument. Using these markings, cutouts are made to install the saw.

Installing a rip fence for a circular saw with your own hands, made from a wooden strip. The element is fixed to the tabletop.
Groove for stop – these elements are formed on the tabletop using the milling method.
Installation of a ruler for measurements - the installation area is located at the leading edge of the cutting element. The ruler will be used to control the dimensional parameters of the workpieces.
Installation of clamps is an additional component for fixing the workpiece.

For a DIY circular saw machine you will need legs. They are mounted taking into account the dimensions of the tabletop made of wooden beams with a section of 4x4 cm. Use is allowed. To provide additional stability, stiffeners should be installed between the supports. A control unit is placed next to the workplace. You should not refuse to install RCDs and devices that protect the engine from overloads.

Technology for creating a wood cutting machine

Manufacturing technology of a homemade cutting machine:

Cutting parts from the corner for assembling the frame (total size - 120x40x60 cm).
Frame assembly by welding.
Fixing the channel (guide) by welding.
Installation of vertical posts (2 pcs.) on the channel (bolt connection).
Assembling a frame from pipes for installing an electric motor and shaft at the required angle (45x60 cm).
Installing a plate with a motor at the rear of the frame.
Manufacturing of a shaft equipped with flanges, supports and a pulley (flange protrusion height - 3.2 cm).
Installation of supports, bearings and pulleys on the shaft. The bearings are fixed to the upper frame in recesses made in the plate.
Installation of the box with the electrical circuit on the lower section of the frame.
Installing the shaft in the area between the posts. Diameter – 1.2 cm. A bushing should be placed on top of the shaft with the minimum possible gap so that these elements slide.
Welding a rocker arm made from a channel (80 cm) onto a bushing. The size of the rocker arms must be within the following ratio: 1:3. The springs must be secured on the outside.

Helpful advice! Experts advise using an asynchronous motor. This motor is not particularly demanding. For networks with 3 phases, a motor with a power of 1.5-3 kW is required; for single-phase networks this figure must be increased by a third. A connection via a capacitor will be required.

All that remains is to mount the motor on the short arm of the rocker arm. The cutting element is placed on the long arm. The shaft and motor are connected using a belt drive. For the tabletop you can use a sheet of metal or a planed board.

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: video on how to make a structure, recommendations

A good drawing of a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands is the main condition for acquiring the necessary tools. To create such a machine, you do not need to use special materials or buy additional components.

Components for the construction of a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:

bed (base);
rotation mechanism (drill);
device for supplying;
vertically located rack for fixing the drill.

In mastering the technology of making a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, video material can provide invaluable assistance.

Guide to creating a drilling machine with your own hands (how to make a simple design):

For the rack, it is better to use DPS to make the part massive or a furniture board with a thickness of more than 20 mm. This will eliminate the vibration effect of the tool. You can use the base from an old microscope or photo enlarger.
The accuracy of the drilling machine from a drill with your own hands depends on the guides (2 pcs.). They serve as the basis for moving the block on which the drill is located. To make guides, it is best to take steel strips. Subsequently, they will be securely screwed to the rack.
For the block you need to take steel clamps, thanks to which the rotation mechanism will be securely fastened to this part.

A self-made mini drilling machine requires a rotary tool feeding mechanism. The classic design scheme involves the use of a spring and a lever. The spring is fixed between the block and the stand.

There are many DIY devices; video material will help you understand this topic.

Features of DIY CNC milling machines

Software is considered an important component in a DIY wood CNC router. Drawings of a conventional design, taking into account this condition, must include additional elements for it:

LPT port;
CNC block.

Helpful advice! To make your own copy-milling machine for wood or metal, you can use carriages belonging to an old printer. Based on these parts, you can create a mechanism that allows the cutter to move in two planes.

Assembling a wood milling machine for a home workshop

At the first stage, drawings are drawn up for a wood milling machine with your own hands, which include information about the placement of all structural components, their dimensions, as well as methods of fixation.

Next, a support frame is assembled from pipes pre-cut into parts of the required size. For fastening you need to use a welding machine. Then the dimensional parameters are checked in order to begin manufacturing the working surface.

You need to act within the following scheme:

Markings are applied to the slab and a tabletop is cut out of it.
If the cutter will be placed vertically, you need to make a cutout for it in the slab.
The spindle and electric motor are being installed. In this case, the spindle should not extend beyond the plane of the working surface.
A limit bar is installed.

Be sure to test the machine before work. When the router is turned on, it should not vibrate too much. To compensate for this drawback, it is recommended to additionally install stiffeners.

Assembling a metal milling machine with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade metal milling machine:

The column and frame are made of metal channel. The result should be a U-shaped structure, where the base of the tool acts as the lower cross member.
Guides are made from the corner. The material must be sanded and connected to the column with bolts.
Guides for the console are made from a profile pipe with a square cross-section. Here you need to insert pins with screwed threads. The console will be moved using a diamond-shaped car jack to a height of 10 cm. In this case, the amplitude to the side is 13 cm, and the tabletop can move within 9 cm.
The working surface is cut out of a plywood sheet and fastened with a screw. The fastener heads need to be recessed.
A vice made of a pipe with a square cross-section and a metal angle welded together is installed on the working surface. It is better to use a threaded pin as a fixing element for the workpiece.

Note! It is better to secure the rotating element in the frame so that the spindle is directed downward. To fix it, you need to weld the jumpers in advance; you will need screws and nuts.

After this, you need to attach a cone (Morse 2) to the spindle and install a collet or drill chuck on it.

Features of making a thicknessing machine with your own hands

Do-it-yourself thicknesser drawings with a complex design involve the use of expensive components:

bearings with increased wear resistance;
rolled steel sheets;
cog;
pulleys;
powerful electric engine.

As a result, the cost of producing a homemade surface planer increases significantly. For this reason, many try to limit themselves to the simplest design.

Instructions for a homemade thickness planer for wood:

Design element	Data
bed	Frames (2 pcs.), made using welding based on a corner (4-5 cm). The frames are connected using studs (ground hexagons - 3.2 cm).
Broach	Rubber squeezing rollers from a washing machine. They are machined to the size of the bearings and put on an axle with a diameter of 2 cm. It operates through rotational manual movements.
Table	The sanded board is attached to the frame using a bolted connection; the heads must be countersunk. The boards need to be treated with oil (already used).
Engine	for 3 phases, power – 5.5 kW, rotational speed – 5000 rpm.
Protective cover	Made of tin (6 mm) placed over a frame angle (20 mm).

Assembling a thickness planer from an electric planer with your own hands

To create a homemade thickness planer, you need to place the plane on the block, secure it with a device such as clamps, not forgetting to leave a gap.

Note! The gap size is set taking into account the thickness of the workpiece that will be processed on the machine.

The scheme for making a surface planer from a plane with your own hands is very simple:

the support beam is fixed on a convenient surface;
the required gap size is selected by adding layers of plywood;
The surface planer structure made from an electric planer is attached to the resulting base with clamps.

Two clamps hold the base on the table, the other two hold the plane. After making sure that this fastening is secure, you can start using the tool.

Scheme for creating a wood grinding machine with your own hands

The optimal width of the sanding belt is 20 cm.
The sanding cloth of the tape is cut into strips.
The abrasive tape is applied end-to-end.
To strengthen the seam, you need to place dense material underneath.
It is not recommended to use low-quality glue, as it will cause the material to tear along the seam.
The diameter of the tape shaft in the center should be 2-3 mm wider than at the edges.
To prevent the tape from slipping, it is recommended to wind it with thin rubber (a bicycle wheel).

Calibrating and grinding machines for wood belong to the group of drum structures. This category is broad and includes many varieties of equipment.

To make a drum sanding machine for wood with your own hands, you can choose the following designs:

surface grinding – the workpiece is processed within one plane;
planetary - with its help a flat plane is formed on the workpiece;
cylindrical grinding – it is used to process cylindrical workpieces.

From the video below, you can learn how to make a grinding machine with your own hands.

Rules for operating a wood jointing machine with your own hands

In the designs of a hand-made jointing machine, it is very important to correctly set the equipment settings so that errors do not exceed the permitted values:

perpendicular – maximum 0.1 mm/cm;
plane – 0.15mm/m.

You can familiarize yourself with the technology of making a jointer with your own hands using a video.

If during operation a mossy or scorched effect appears on the treated surface, it means the cutting elements have become dull. To make processing parts with dimensions less than 3x40 cm more comfortable, they need to be held using pushers.

A curved surface of the workpiece after processing has been performed indicates that the correct placement of the knives and the working surface has been disrupted. These elements need to be set again.

All of these machines can be useful for home renovations or basic repairs. Therefore, their presence in the home workshop will be useful. Regardless of how the garage is equipped, all machines require careful and attentive handling. You should never forget about safety while working.

Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop: general information

So, when creating a metal workbench with your own hands, the drawings and dimensions of the product on them can be adjusted to the parameters of the room and other conditions. Even for a small home workshop, you will need to allocate enough space to accommodate at least the design of a universal folding workbench and a minimum set of tools. The required area for this is at least 3-5 m².

Manufacturing of tools storage devices: shelves, racks

Before designing a drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands, which has the largest design (therefore its dimensions are taken into account first), it is worth deciding on some points:

indicate what types of work will be performed in the workshop;
determine a list of necessary tools and equipment.

circular saw;
grinding machine;
sharpened;
mini lathe for wood;
cutting machine.

The work table can be combined with a vice for a carpentry workbench and equipped with drawers to store small tools.

DIY tool shelves: popular designs

Metal structures are more durable and reliable, while wooden ones are affordable.
There are several options for rational storage of tools:

wall shelves;
DIY tool racks;
suspended ceiling shelves;
Shelves-boards for hanging small tools.

Technology for making a shelf for tools with your own hands (shield):

A shield is cut out of a plywood sheet, and the places where the shelves will be installed are marked on it.

Using a jigsaw, shelves with side walls are cut out. The length of these sides must match the length of the shield.

Shelves for tools are assembled and fixed to the surface of the shield using long self-tapping screws.

Hooks are being installed. Holes are made in the shield where dowels are installed. You need to screw special hooks equipped with threads into them. First, you should distribute the entire tool and mark the points where it will hang.

Brackets or lugs are installed on the rear wall of the structure.

All that remains is to fix the shield shelf on the wall. To prevent the lugs from sliding off the anchors, it is recommended to fix them with special washers.

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, videos, technology

The drawing of a carpentry workbench should include the following details:

Working surface - for its manufacture it is recommended to take a board 6 cm thick or more. Suitable wood species such as oak, hornbeam or beech. It is allowed to use several narrow boards pre-treated with drying oil.

A do-it-yourself homemade vice design is attached to the top cover, which should also be included in the drawing. If you intend to install a large-sized product, it is better to use wood for its manufacture. It is allowed to make and subsequently install small metalworking vices made of steel yourself.

Workbench supports can be made from linden or pine. A longitudinal connection in the form of strips must be installed between them. This will increase the stability of the table.

Shelves for storing tools - mounted under the workbench. Designs can be fixed or retractable.

There are several modifications of workbenches:

mobile;
stationary;
folding (universal).

Having familiarized yourself with the structure of a carpentry workbench, you can begin to manufacture it.

Technology and drawings of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: how to make a simple design

Step-by-step technology for manufacturing the structure:

To make a lid for a wooden carpentry workbench, you will need to take thick boards. The size must be selected so that, as a result of their connection, a shield with parameters of 0.7x2 m is obtained (the length can be less than 2 m). Long nails should be used as fasteners, which must be driven in from the front side and bent from the back.
You can finish the lid by securing a beam with a section of 50x50 mm along its lower perimeter.
Depending on the size of the carpentry workbench (its cover), vertical supports are located. To make them, a timber (12x12x130 cm) is taken. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the height of the working surface, because it should be comfortable. The upper limit of the support should be at the level of your lowered arms. Subsequently, due to the installation of the cover, about 8-10 cm will be added to this indicator. Markings for installing the beams should be applied to the ground and these elements should be dug to a depth of 0.2-0.35 m.
Next, we install the frame part and the cover of the wooden workbench with our own hands. The installed support bars must be connected in pairs. For this, wide boards are used, fixed at a height of 0.2-0.4 m with long screws. The cover is secured to the ends of the supports using the same fasteners.

Technology for making a universal wooden workbench with your own hands

In addition, you can install drawers for storing tools in a folding universal workbench with your own hands.

Technology for making a folding workbench with your own hands:

Vertical supports are installed in a similar way and are connected to each other using horizontally located jumpers. Before installing the jumpers, grooves should be made on them for nuts and washers. To do this, it is better to use a hammer and chisel.

When the jumpers are set at the required level, through holes are made in the horizontal bar and the vertically installed support. The long bolt will be inserted here. On the side where there is a groove for fastening, put on a nut and washer, after which the element is tightened well.

You will need 2 horizontal jumpers for the frame part of a homemade carpentry workbench. on each of 4 sides. You will also need a couple of jumpers for installation under the work surface (in the center). The elements under the table top are designed for drawers. The distance between these jumpers must correspond to the size of the boxes.

Bolts are also used to fix the working surface. Mounting recesses are prepared at the ends of the supports, and holes for fastening are prepared on the tabletop. The bolts are installed so that their heads are recessed (1-2 mm).

DIY carpenter's vice design for a workbench

The jaws of the tool are made from a pair of boards. One part of the part will be fixed. To make it you need to take pine. The second part measuring 2x1.8x50 cm will move. In each of these boards you need to drill a hole for a screw. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 cm, holes for the studs are formed in all boards at the same time. To prevent the holes from moving relative to each other, you can connect them using nails.

After all the holes are made, the screw and all the studs are inserted into them along with the washer and nut.

Additionally, you can use the video material posted below to create a vice with your own hands.

Making a metal workbench with your own hands: how to make a metal structure

In the general drawing of a do-it-yourself bench, you can identify five main components of the design:

For longitudinal rigidity of the product, horizontal beams (3 pieces) measuring 6x4 cm are used. Length – slightly exceeds 2 m.
Rack-mounted small-sized beams (9 pcs.) made of profiled pipes measuring 6x4 cm. They are used to assemble the frame part of the cabinets. In the corner area there are welded spacers made of steel strips. Due to all these elements, the frame is rigid and very durable.
Rack beams (4 pcs.) 9-10 cm long (section 6x4 cm). To do this, it is better to use metal profile pipes with thick walls (more than 2 mm).
Corner No. 50 (4 pcs.), which will be used as vertical posts. The height of these elements is 1.7-2 m. Working tools will be attached here.

Dimensions of the bench:

Do-it-yourself workbench manufacturing technology: how to assemble

To prevent this, you must:

Lay out the parts on a perfectly flat plane.

In the places where the connecting points are located (there are 4 of them), the beams are tacked using the spot welding method.

After this, all welding seams are fully completed. First on one side of the frame, then on its reverse side.

A plywood tool shield can be mounted on the vertical rack elements. The same material is used to sew up the cabinets. For boxes, you can use metal boxes or make wooden structures.

You can use the video below to understand in more detail the technology of making a workbench with your own hands:

Features of creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

To create a wood turning and copying machine with your own hands, you can use an old manual milling machine, which is no longer needed. This tool is placed on a plywood platform 1.2 cm thick and 20x50 cm in size. You must first make holes in it for the cutter and fasteners. Stops made of bars will also be mounted here. They are necessary to ensure that the cutter is in a fixed state. The router itself is secured with two nails between the clamps.

In fact, it is absolutely not difficult to make a copy design of a homemade wood lathe with your own hands - there are enough video materials on the Internet.

The main parts of a simple lathe (on the left - only with a leading center, on the right - with a leading and driven center): 1 - frame; 2 - drive; 3 - leading center; 4 - workpiece; 5 - stop for the cutter; 6 - tailstock; 7 - driven center (center-bolt); a - height

An example of a homemade wood lathe with your own hands

List of parts for a wood lathe (it’s easy to understand how to assemble the structure yourself based on this list):

Power component - you can use an electric motor from an old pump or washing machine.

Headstock (rear) - a head from a drill with a high power reserve is suitable.

Headstock (front) - to organize this part, it is better to buy a factory spindle equipped with 3-4 pins. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to shift the workpiece relative to the rotational axis.

The supporting element - the table for incisors - can be of absolutely any configuration, the main thing is that it provides comfort during work.

Pulley - is a connecting element between the headstock and the shafts in the electric motor.

As supporting information, you can use a video detailing this process to assemble a wood lathe with your own hands.

The second example of a DIY woodworking lathe

This design has its drawbacks, they are associated with:

high probability that errors will occur in milling;
low level of reliability;
inability to process large-sized wooden workpieces.

The principle of making cutters for a wood lathe

The rods are steel reinforcement - it is better to use options that have factory original dimensions and a square cross-section.

Files or rasps - worn-out workpieces are suitable, but it is not allowed to use material with deep chips or cracks.

Automotive springs - before using these blanks they will need to be given a square shape, which not everyone can do. A welding machine is useful for this purpose. Autogen will also do.

DIY knife sharpening devices: drawings and recommendations

The list of parts needed for a DIY sharpening machine includes:

tube (to grind the flange);
a nut for fixing the stone on the pulley;

metal for making a protective casing for a sharpener with your own hands (thickness 2.-2.5 mm);
whetstone;
an electrical cable cord having a plug;
starting device;
a corner made of metal or a block of wood (for the frame).

Some people need a chainsaw chain sharpener. You can make such a structure with your own hands from a frame with 3 supports, two spindles, a stepper motor (2 kW) and pipes used as holders.

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw with your own hands

Creating a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands is the most important stage in creating the machine, since this structure will house the main parts of the equipment in the form of:

power unit;
control block;
cutting component;
other components.

The support bed on the hand tool table doubles as a guide for your DIY circular saw. It controls the direction in which the cut is made and fixes the workpiece.

At the design stage for DIY circular saw drawings, you should take into account some factors:

The depth to which the material will be cut depends on the geometry of the disk.

The power level of the electric motor - a specific indicator of 800 W will be sufficient.

Control system installation area - the control should be located as far as possible from the disk.

Rotational speed - the minimum acceptable value is 1600 rpm, otherwise color change will occur during the cutting process.

How to make a circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

First, the tabletop is made from sheet material. Markings are applied to it in accordance with the dimensions of the instrument. Using these markings, cutouts are made to install the saw.

Installing a rip fence for a circular saw with your own hands, made from a wooden strip. The element is fixed to the tabletop.

Groove for stop – these elements are formed on the tabletop using the milling method.

Installation of a ruler for measurements - the installation area is located at the leading edge of the cutting element. The ruler will be used to control the dimensional parameters of the workpieces.

Installation of clamps is an additional component for fixing the workpiece.

For a DIY circular saw machine you will need legs. They are mounted taking into account the dimensions of the tabletop made of wooden beams with a section of 4x4 cm. The use of steel corners is allowed. To provide additional stability, stiffeners should be installed between the supports. A control unit is placed next to the workplace. You should not refuse to install RCDs and devices that protect the engine from overloads.

Variant of a circular saw from a drill. Layout diagram: 1 - drive (electric drill); 2 - work table (duralumin, sheet s5); 3 - circular saw; 4 - stand (St3, strip 20?5, 4 pcs.); 5 - support holder of the mandrel shaft; 6 - mandrel; 7-electric drill holder; 8 - base plate (furniture chipboard, s30)

Technology for creating a wood cutting machine

Manufacturing technology of a homemade cutting machine:

Cutting parts from the corner for assembling the frame (total size - 120x40x60 cm).

Frame assembly by welding.

Fixing the channel (guide) by welding.

Installation of vertical posts (2 pcs.) on the channel (bolt connection).

Assembling a frame from pipes for installing an electric motor and shaft at the required angle (45x60 cm).

Installing a plate with a motor at the rear of the frame.

Manufacturing of a shaft equipped with flanges, supports and a pulley (flange protrusion height - 3.2 cm).

Installation of supports, bearings and pulleys on the shaft. The bearings are fixed to the upper frame in recesses made in the plate.

Installation of the box with the electrical circuit on the lower section of the frame.

Installing the shaft in the area between the posts. Diameter – 1.2 cm. A bushing should be placed on top of the shaft with the minimum possible gap so that these elements slide.

Welding a rocker arm made from a channel (80 cm) onto a bushing. The size of the rocker arms must be within the following ratio: 1:3. The springs must be secured on the outside.

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: video on how to make a structure, recommendations

Components for the construction of a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:

bed (base);
rotation mechanism (drill);
device for supplying;
vertically located rack for fixing the drill.

In mastering the technology of making a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, video material can provide invaluable assistance.

Guide to creating a drilling machine with your own hands (how to make a simple design):

For the rack, it is better to use DPS to make the part massive or a furniture board with a thickness of more than 20 mm. This will eliminate the vibration effect of the tool. You can use the base from an old microscope or photo enlarger.

The accuracy of the drilling machine from a drill with your own hands depends on the guides (2 pcs.). They serve as the basis for moving the block on which the drill is located. To make guides, it is best to take steel strips. Subsequently, they will be securely screwed to the rack.

For the block you need to take steel clamps, thanks to which the rotation mechanism will be securely fastened to this part.

A self-made mini drilling machine requires a rotary tool feeding mechanism. The classic design scheme involves the use of a spring and a lever. The spring is fixed between the block and the stand.

There are many devices for sharpening drills with your own hands; video material will help you understand this topic.

Features of DIY CNC milling machines

Software is considered an important component in a DIY wood CNC router. Drawings of a conventional design, taking into account this condition, must include additional elements for it:

LPT port;
CNC block.

Assembling a wood milling machine for a home workshop

You need to act within the following scheme:

Markings are applied to the fiberboard board and a tabletop is cut out of it.

If the cutter will be placed vertically, you need to make a cutout for it in the slab.

The spindle and electric motor are being installed. In this case, the spindle should not extend beyond the plane of the working surface.

A limit bar is installed.

Be sure to test the machine before work. When the router is turned on, it should not vibrate too much. To compensate for this drawback, it is recommended to additionally install stiffeners.

Assembling a metal milling machine with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade metal milling machine:

The column and frame are made of metal channel. The result should be a U-shaped structure, where the base of the tool acts as the lower cross member.

Guides are made from the corner. The material must be sanded and connected to the column with bolts.

Guides for the console are made from a profile pipe with a square cross-section. Here you need to insert pins with screwed threads. The console will be moved using a diamond-shaped car jack to a height of 10 cm. In this case, the amplitude to the side is 13 cm, and the tabletop can move within 9 cm.

The working surface is cut out of a plywood sheet and fastened with a screw. The fastener heads need to be recessed.

A vice made of a pipe with a square cross-section and a metal angle welded together is installed on the working surface. It is better to use a threaded pin as a fixing element for the workpiece.

Diagram of the milling machine device (a - general view, b - kinematic diagram): 1, 5 - guide rulers; 2 - gear sector; 3 - cutter; 4 - fence; 6 - control panel; 7 - additional spindle support; 8 - bracket; 9 - handwheel for lifting the bracket; 10 - belt tension handwheel; 11 - electric motor; 12 - spindle; 13 - handwheel for adjusting the spindle height; 14 - bed; 15 - spindle speed switch; 16 - switch; 17 - table

After this, you need to attach a cone (Morse 2) to the spindle and install a collet or drill chuck on it.

Features of making a thicknessing machine with your own hands

Do-it-yourself thicknesser drawings with a complex design involve the use of expensive components:

bearings with increased wear resistance;
rolled steel sheets;
cog;
pulleys;
powerful electric engine.

As a result, the cost of producing a homemade surface planer increases significantly. For this reason, many try to limit themselves to the simplest design.

Instructions for a homemade thickness planer for wood:

Design element	Data
bed	Frames (2 pcs.), made using welding based on a corner (4-5 cm). The frames are connected using studs (ground hexagons - 3.2 cm).
Broach	Rubber squeezing rollers from a washing machine. They are machined to the size of the bearings and put on an axle with a diameter of 2 cm. It operates through rotational manual movements.
Table	The sanded board is attached to the frame using a bolted connection; the heads must be countersunk. The boards need to be treated with oil (already used).
Engine	for 3 phases, power – 5.5 kW, rotational speed – 5000 rpm.
Protective cover	Made of tin (6 mm) placed over a frame angle (20 mm).

Assembling a thickness planer from an electric planer with your own hands

To create a homemade thickness planer, you need to place the plane on the block, secure it with a device such as clamps, not forgetting to leave a gap.

The scheme for making a surface planer from a plane with your own hands is very simple:

the support beam is fixed on a convenient surface;
the required gap size is selected by adding layers of plywood;
The surface planer structure made from an electric planer is attached to the resulting base with clamps.

Two clamps hold the base on the table, the other two hold the plane. After making sure that this fastening is secure, you can start using the tool.

Scheme for creating a wood grinding machine with your own hands

The optimal width of the sanding belt is 20 cm.
The sanding cloth of the tape is cut into strips.
The abrasive tape is applied end-to-end.
To strengthen the seam, you need to place dense material underneath.
It is not recommended to use low-quality glue, as it will cause the material to tear along the seam.
The diameter of the tape shaft in the center should be 2-3 mm wider than at the edges.
To prevent the tape from slipping, it is recommended to wind it with thin rubber (a bicycle wheel).

Calibrating and grinding machines for wood belong to the group of drum structures. This category is broad and includes many varieties of equipment.

To make a drum sanding machine for wood with your own hands, you can choose the following designs:

surface grinding – the workpiece is processed within one plane;
planetary - with its help a flat plane is formed on the workpiece;
cylindrical grinding – it is used to process cylindrical workpieces.

From the video below, you can learn how to make a grinding machine with your own hands.

Rules for operating a wood jointing machine with your own hands

In the designs of a hand-made jointing machine, it is very important to correctly set the equipment settings so that errors do not exceed the permitted values:

perpendicular – maximum 0.1 mm/cm;
plane – 0.15mm/m.

You can familiarize yourself with the technology of making a jointer with your own hands using a video.

Any owner of a workshop, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly, high-quality work. But nowadays you can’t “get far” with a hand tool. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment comes to the rescue. There are no problems with supply - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out of the situation by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, quite accessible materials are used, often just collecting dust in the barn. And running power tools, usually found in any workshop, are widely used as drives.

This publication will discuss only some homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. It’s time to give this topic a separate site altogether. So this will mostly be a general overview. But we will consider the manufacture of two models, which are probably very important for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for cutting tools, step by step, with all the nuances, from the first outlines to testing.

The basics are a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories.

The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting out of the picture (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for tools, accessories, consumables and other small items necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or made independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

“Classic” carpentry workbench

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long-used and extensively tested general concept for such a workplace. It probably makes sense to stick to it when making your own workbench.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (item 1), which at the bottom, at the base, are usually connected in pairs by support bridges (item 2). There is a cover on top - a workbench board (item 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (item 4) so that during work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall on the floor.

Usually on the right side there is a side or rear clamp (item 5). In essence, this is a screw vice, which has a wedge that extends upward (item 6). Along the line of this wedge along the bench board there is a row of slots (item 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these slots or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fasten a wooden workpiece for processing between the wedges of the table and the side vice.

To secure a long part that cannot be secured between the outer wedges, use the front clamp (item 8). This is also a screw vice that is capable of clamping the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden jaw. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves extend from the end of the workbench (item 9).

The lower area of the workbench is called the underbench (item 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbars (legs) that connect the legs of the layout in pairs in the longitudinal direction. These crossbars often contain shelves for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of the workbench. Anyone who knows how to read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with, here is a general installation diagram of a carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

For the manufacture of underbench (base) parts, as a rule, high-quality coniferous wood with a residual moisture content of no more than 12% is used.

The bench board (cover) is mainly made from hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. Making such a massive dimensional panel yourself is an extremely difficult task, so often a ready-made laminated board is ordered or purchased from a carpentry workshop. This is unlikely to seem like an overly expensive solution, given the cost of the material and the complexity of the process. So it’s more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As this coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Particularly difficult is usually the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. In order to get truly functional and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of the vice itself in a ready-made, assembled form. There are many models suitable for this purpose on sale.

To assemble these clamping units, you can use the following drawing as a guide:

Vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench lid.

Of course, an example is shown here, and it may suit many in its “pure form,” that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing, taking the demonstrated diagrams as a sample for assembling certain components. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers to make improvements, which, of course, should not negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Video: mechanic's workbench with his farts

If the master plans to mainly engage in metalworking operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry “classics”, there are an innumerable number of possible options. As a rule, steel profiles (angles, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for production. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:

An important component of comfortable work in the workshop is always an optimized arrangement and storage system for tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It’s convenient when you know where everything is and when the necessary tool is always at hand. So it’s worth paying close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, and intelligently organized storage areas for consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow for “clearance”. There is a special publication dedicated to questions on our portal.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of homemade machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to talk about them all. Therefore, in this section of the article the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, the manufacture of two models of machines will be considered in detail, step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

On the farm, there is often a need to turn one or another wooden part with a round cross-section. If you don’t do this professionally, then purchasing a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And it will take up a lot of space. But having at your disposal a miniature machine that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed will never hurt. Moreover, its manufacture is not such a difficult matter.

You can verify this by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And such a machine, guided by this video tip, is within the power of anyone to make.

Video - a circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

If there is a need to prepare a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then you can’t think of anything better than a stationary circular saw. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, due to its uselessness, does not take up practically any space at all.

All you need is a sheet of plywood, a few blocks and screws. And the main element of the design is a hand-held vertical saw

In the shown scene, the master removes part of the protective guard of a manual circular saw. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if you plan to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from an angle grinder - self-production step by step

When cutting workpieces or wood or metal, including profile or round pipes, high precision is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the cutting angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut blanks for a frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pendulum saw allows you to perform this operation. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame) that ensures the stability of the machine (item 1). In many models, a work table with a system of guides, stops and clamps is organized on top of the bed, allowing you to accurately align the workpiece. There must be a slot (item 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw is lowered.

The support (item 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly attached to the frame. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axis (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging platform-rocker arm (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is located on this platform, transmitting rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disk down onto the workpiece mounted on the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if you make a special milling table for it. One of the options for such a homemade machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

In the workshop, in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Walking disc knife sharpeners provide a very short-term effect of sharpening the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the rules it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually using whetstones or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially so that it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for different types of cutting tools - there are many separate publications on this topic on the Internet.

This means that in order to qualitatively sharpen, for example, a knife, a device is required that would allow applying force with the translational direction of a flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-set angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the progress of the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices available for sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will be quite inexpensive. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The entire structure of the machine, all its parts and components will be attached in one way or another to the base - the bed (frame). A profile pipe with a square section of 20×20 mm is well suited for its manufacture...
	...with a wall thickness of 2 mm. As will be clear later, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they are based on considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, and the availability of certain materials.
	Blanks for the frame are cut from a profile pipe using a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
	In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it using a cutting machine. If it is not there, nothing prevents you from making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, the small parts will be only 90 mm, since they will fit between the large ones. This will not affect the functionality of the sharpening machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
	This is the frame we got after preparing the parts.
	The cut edges can be slightly adjusted, deburred, and a small chamfer for the weld seam can be cleaned.
	Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded along short vertical joints with a continuous seam. The seams are cleaned of slag and sanded with a grinder.
	Welded frame corner after cleaning. You can, of course, immediately boil it on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs and stands. The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine simply with the frame on a flat surface. But with stands, of course, it’s more interesting.
	This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store. The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame.
	Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be placed before they are scalded.
	The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out at all four corners of the frame.
	Now on one side of the frame (on its small side) you need to weld nuts into which the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3÷4 mm)…
	- and then the upper wall of the frame is drilled with a drill of 10 mm diameter.
	What is important here is stability, the stability of the assembly’s fastening, that is, you can’t get away with just a few turns of thread. Therefore, extended M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made. It is advisable to first machine their lower edge under the cylinder so that it fits tightly into the drilled holes.
	In fact, only one such socket is required to install the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to move the stand to a different position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes.
	After this, all the nuts are scalded. When tacking, you must ensure that the nuts do not move and are level. To do this, they can be held with a temporarily screwed-in long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame. In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashes of metal.
	Here's what happened: on the top side of the frame there are two welded nuts for the struts...
	...from the bottom there are four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in the adjustable supports. By the way, if the craftsman has at his disposal threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the stand), then you can get by with them, that is, avoid the operation of welding the nuts.
	The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate. It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out from a corner with a 63 mm shelf. The length of the part is the width of the frame, that is, 130 mm.
	First, the required piece of corner is cut off. Then it is clamped in a vice to cut one shelf evenly with a grinder.
	This is how this platform will be welded to the frame.
	After welding, the seam is thoroughly cleaned.
	Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed to this area with a pressure plate. And for this you need to prepare two holes with M8 threads. It is advisable to space them wider so that you can, for example, clamp planer knives and other similar cutting parts between them. First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
	Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
	After this, the thread is cut with a tap.
	The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate. For it, it is better to take thick, 3÷4 mm, stainless steel. It is less susceptible to deformation than conventional carbon steel. The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions of the supporting platform.
	The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground beveled to prevent it from being touched by the abrasive during sharpening. Next, two holes are drilled on the plate for M8 screws - strictly aligned along the axes with the threaded holes in the support pad. These screw holes can be modified to be countersunk.
	The frame is completely ready, and after cleaning and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can. While the paint dries, you can work on other components and parts of the machine.
	A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the stand and working rod of the machine. First you need to clean it thoroughly - polish it with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in your hand. Let's be honest - it's not a completely safe way.
	Rod after polishing. It is divided into two sections - one 450÷500 mm long, the second - 250÷300 mm.
	An M8 thread is cut from one end of each rod. On a short rod there is a threaded section approximately 20 mm long - this is for screwing into the welded nut of the frame.
	On a long rod there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for screwing the handle.
	The next step is to make clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from extended M10 nuts. First, you need to use a core to mark the center of the through hole, with a distance of 12 mm from the edge.
	Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the nut axis, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
	You need to cut a quarter off the other edge of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw for metal in two steps. First, a transverse cut is made to the center...
	...and then - longitudinal. You need to prepare two of these nuts.
	Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the clamps are ready. This is what they will look like.
	After this, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a sharpening stone is placed in the cut-out quarters, and this entire assembly is secured with clamping bolts. That's it, the rod is assembled, you can move on to the next unit of the machine.
	There should be a unit on the rack that provides an upper point of support for the rod. In this case, the translational movement of the rod back and forth, and a degree of freedom left and right, must be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will precisely set the sharpening angle of the cutting edge. This unit will again be manufactured on the basis of an extended M10 nut. To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - exactly the same as on the nuts that were used for the clamps.
	Then comes a rather complicated operation. It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut an M8 thread in it. The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will act as a hinge.
	This is what the unit looks like assembled. From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with the help of which the unit will be fixed to the vertical stand.
	It must be said that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and is justified only by the availability of parts. But the working rod produces quite a significant amount of play, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife. A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fish-eye joint - such parts are available in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high. It is probably quite possible to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt and then cutting the thread - if you are lucky enough to purchase a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to get by with a short hairpin. But for now we are considering it as the master suggested.
	All parts are ready - you can proceed to assembling the machine.
	Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the frame. Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands stable - on all four points.
	The vertical stand is screwed in.
	A hinge assembly is placed on the stand and secured at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
	A pressure plate is placed on the support platform. Two screws are attached that will secure the cutting tool in this clamp.
	All that remains is to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
	The master decided to immediately try it at work. To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “dead” cutting edge.
	The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is approximately parallel to the short side of the bed. Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
	The working rod is inserted into the hinge. The hinge itself is adjusted in height to ensure the required sharpening angle. The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large block. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
	Then the block can be replaced with another one, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
	The result of the work is first visual...
	...and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge. A loose sheet of paper can be easily cut into strips.
	By changing the height of the hinge unit, you can sharpen the plane iron in the same way...
	...or even an ax blade. If it is temporarily not needed, the machine itself can be easily disassembled by removing the bar and unscrewing the stand. In this form, it will take up very little space in the closet or on the shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale on which the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge is set. It’s not difficult to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, like the one shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to apply a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, align the central mark of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They do it differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks have been made in advance, for example, “kitchen knife”, “table knife”, “chisel”, “ ”, etc. That is, it will be enough to select the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the applied mark.

Another option is marks on the vertical post. True, in this case, uniformity in the placement of knives in the clamp is required - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the simplest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, labeling them which cutting tool this corner is intended for.

In a word, by showing intelligence it is not difficult to significantly simplify bringing the machine into the desired working position.

You can also make a note about fastening the bars. If they are supposed to be changed during sharpening, then they must have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have several steel plates of the same size prepared. Abrasive paper is glued to the plates. The two sides are already two different levels of grain. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from rough shaping of the cutting edge to polishing it.

Another interesting idea in this regard is not a plate, but a section of a 20x20 mm profile square pipe. The four sides are four different abrasives. As you work, just turn it over to the right side...

One more nuance: it doesn’t hurt to ensure your safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during a forward movement, your hand falls off - and carefully with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.

A home-made tool sharpening machine will certainly be very useful in any household.

* * * * * * *

We can say that in this article we have only scratched the surface of the topic of homemade machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever tool they would like to see in detail - we will try to satisfy their requests. And it’s even better if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are required to be paid.

The master is not distinguished by greed, which some masters suffer from, who do not want to share their finds with others and, like a dog in the manger, neither to themselves nor to people. And this self-taught inventor came up with a great device with which you will always be at your best and can even improve your standard of living. Why, you can put such a tool into production and sell it to everyone. Maybe this is too strong a word, but it’s worth thinking about automating and mechanizing all routine work at home.

8 tools for craftsmen.

You probably haven't seen many of them. Cool instruments are created by DIYers. These devices will help you work more comfortably in the workshop. The video was filmed on the “Hands from Shoulders” channel.

Folding table for the master

1. Let's start with a folding table, which will be an excellent assistant in a small workshop. It will help save an already small area. The table has a compartment for all small things. A shelf on which you can lay out the necessary tools. Thanks to the large number of holes, a clamp can be used to quickly and conveniently fix the workpieces. Stops are inserted into them. It is convenient to fix the parts in a vertical position. If we insert it into the guide bolts, we get additional stops. Having a set of clamps and such a table, you can comfortably perform a variety of jobs.

Homemade folding stand

2. A very original idea for a folding stand for hand tools. Everyone is in their place. It doesn't take up much space. The design is based on furniture guides. The stand is held in the upper position. Neodymium magnets prevent instruments from falling out of their stocks. A great idea for DIYers who love to do everything with their own hands.

Apple puller

3.Gardeners will be interested in the fruit puller. Its advantage over analogues is that it is absolutely free and easy to manufacture. It is not at all difficult to find a plastic bottle, a rope and cut a stick. 5 minutes and you can go for apples.

Homemade apple press

4. If the harvest is large, then the question arises, where to put it? A great option is apple juice. For store-bought juicers, apples need to be cut and peeled, which is inconvenient. The grater shown below can handle whole apples. All that remains for Dali is to squeeze out the resulting mass under pressure. As a result, we get natural, tasty juice and almost dry cake.

Tool trolley

5. The mobile tool cart is very convenient for the workshop. When, for example, the workbench is littered with parts. Or it doesn't exist at all. By loading everything you need at the moment into it, you get the entire tool in one place at hand.

What can you make from an electric planer with your own hands?

6. Another interesting planer design is based on an electric planer. With the help of guides it moves in 2 planes. The movement takes place using an elevator. For precise adjustment, there are rulers on each side of the device.

Grinding device

7. Having a jigsaw, you can get a cool sanding tool. Interestingly, it is not the abrasive that moves, but the workpiece itself.

Cheap homemade grinder

8. The most budget version of the grinder, created by the Samodelkins. Plastic bottles are used as rollers. They are mounted on bearings. The belt on the rollers is adjusted using thumbwheels. The tension is adjusted with a bolt. The structure is driven by a drill. You can slightly improve Samodelkin’s design by replacing plastic bottles with polypropylene tubes.

The self-taught self-made man rocked the network with his video

The self-taught inventor captivated the online community of craftsmen with his video, in which he presented a fundamentally new utility model for improving the efficiency of work for craftsmen and those who like to work in the garage. The best part is that it doesn't require you to buy an idea. And what’s more, you can do all this yourself and even a novice master can handle it. All this is to the benefit of every resident of the cities in which the masters have settled, because with such a high level of skill, now you won’t want to hammer the walls at home on weekends or rattle with some kind of ultra-decibel grinding machine of unknown purpose. With such a device, you can safely create your own separate workshop and live the rich life of a Russian craftsman.

Homemade tool rocks the internet

This video shook up the community of invention lovers on the world wide web. The master thought about this idea for years and finally brought to the public discussion an idea that was ingenious in its simplicity and radically profitable for those who used to chisel walls with a hammer drill, realize their inclinations as a woodpecker and a brilliant builder-grinder, and now can make themselves rich for free, working in silence a workshop in a garage or even in a separate building.

And at the same time, you don’t have to spend money and take money saved for beer out of your stash. All this is free - the master loves to show the whole world the useful things he comes up with.

Uprooting of seedlings and weeds from a square for homemade people

Good afternoon My long absence from the channel was not in vain; during this time I managed to do a lot of household chores. And of course, I stocked up on a bunch of homemade products that I will show you, my dear subscribers and guests! There is no point in posting everything at once, because this also takes a lot of time, but if possible I will try to post at least one per day. Not only am I sitting at the computer, I can’t leave my workshop. Messing around in the garden is another hobby of mine; I spent a lot of time there in the summer. Caring for plants and weeding, although a pleasant activity, however, also requires a lot of effort. And how I would like to make a lot easier. Wanting alone is not enough, so you need to make useful things yourself that will make your work easier and make it a pleasure, rather than hard labor with a farmhand.

Today I’ll show you a device that I successfully used almost all spring and summer and will, God willing, last for more than one season. Do-it-yourself uprooter To make it, I took a square with walls 40 by 40 mm, 220 mm long. I didn’t cut this length on purpose; I had a lot of such scraps left over from other construction work.
I drew two oblique lines along the walls to the corner of the square. Having cut it out, it turned out to be such a spear. A pipe with a diameter of 25 mm was welded into the inner part of the angle. From the outside I welded a square right in the middle of the square. Instead of a square, you can weld a square, but it seemed to me that it would be more convenient.
A metal handle was installed in the pipe so that it would not break under load, because the force falls mainly on the handle. When working with a flat cutter, some types of weeds still germinate after a certain time, especially after rains. And having ripped it out by the roots, I eliminated this possibility and my garden became well-groomed and beautiful. Without damaging the root system, they can also remove seedlings for replanting, which is what I did at the beginning of the season with strawberries and other plants.

A simple cheap homemade device for picking berries

Gooseberries are a tasty and healthy berry. The plant itself is quite unpretentious and does not require any special care. The berries grow large and are quite convenient to pick. And everything would be fine if it weren’t for the prickly gooseberry branches. Because of these garden “cacti,” my hands used to constantly have small scratches. And several times you will think “do you need it - there are so many berries” before you climb deep into the bush for the harvest. But a few years ago my husband made my life easier. He spotted one very simple but useful device for picking berries on the Internet. What is it used for and how is it useful?

In fact, such a picker can be used not only for collecting gooseberries. I also use it to collect any other berries/fruits in hard-to-reach places that I can’t easily reach with my hand. For example, to remove plums, cherries or apples from high branches. How to make a device for picking gooseberries? Everything ingenious is simple! Take a plastic bottle and cut a droplet-shaped hole on the side. Depending on what berries/fruits your picker is intended for, this is the diameter of the drop. For gooseberries, 5-7 cm is enough, for apples and plums more, so that you don’t have to aim for a long time and try to hit the fruit. The volume of the bottle will also depend on what you are collecting. For berries, a 0.5 liter bottle is better.

The droplet's nose should be directed toward the bottom of the bottle. You can also make a cut a couple of centimeters in continuation of the spout so that the branch can be better grasped. That's it, our device is ready! We will pick berries by holding it by the neck.

It really is much easier to do this with him. Not only do your hands remain scratch-free, but the work also goes faster. After all, the harvested crop will be poured into the top of the bottle. Accordingly, there is no need to “climb out” from the bush after each berry, put the harvest in a can or jar and climb again. Plus, we can get berries even from the most inaccessible places. And the most important thing is that such a device is made in 3 minutes, does not cost a penny, and makes life much easier. If it gets lost or gets dirty, no problem – we’ll do another one without any problems! So, gardeners, take action! If the article was useful to you, give it a “thumbs up” and subscribe to the channel for summer residents and gardeners “SADOёZH”.

Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop.

The master came up with a new machine design based on a washing machine engine, which is more functional than its analogues. Several interesting solutions were applied during the work and in the final design.

For homemade work you will need a profile pipe, a sheet of plywood, a section of water pipe, a bearing, a pin, and pulleys. At first I wanted to install a 420 watt motor, but later replaced it with a 300 watt motor, which is sufficient for this design with pulleys.
The frame is in the shape of a parallelepiped.
The master decided to install a large diameter grinding disc - 45 cm - to increase the functionality of the machine.
This machine has more capabilities.

A few comments.

Nils Forsberg
Maybe I’m a fool, of course, but I don’t understand why people use disc sanders, why not a belt sander? On the plate, in different places on the disk, the sandpaper moves at different speeds, which is why it is almost not used near the center, but vice versa at the edge, then again cutting it into a circle means loss of material, a lot of glue is used for gluing, etc. With a belt sander, the speed is the same everywhere, whether in the center or along the edges, it is more economical in terms of sandpaper consumption, in terms of glue consumption, and in terms of wear resistance it is much better because You can glue the tape at least 3 meters or even more. It’s possible that the engine for a tape machine needs a more powerful one, but the benefits are undeniable.

Holmogorets
A week ago
super. One note, there is no need to weld the assembly with bearings. Welding current passes through the balls, can spark through them and the service life of the unit is noticeably reduced. At least the return wire should be connected to the pipe itself, and not to the axle. Otherwise - handsome!

Vladimir
I watched it with pleasure. A lot of witty solutions! I would order the bearing housing from a turner, but then I sawed the pipe, pressed it, welded it and everything was ready! Subscribed to the channel. I hope to learn a lot.
And the editing of the video pleased me! I'm tired of people explaining “twice two” for an hour!

Machines and devices from a simple drill

It is difficult to do without mechanization and automation, having only hand tools. However, a drill is such a universal tool that even when there are no machines in the workshop, with the help of simple devices you can greatly increase productivity and ease of use with just one drill and save not only time, but also finances.
Watch 5 homemade drills at once in a short review video of the DaBRO video channel.
Recommended video.

Another DIY that's worth having in your home workshop if you have a drill and don't have a separate sanding and polishing machine.

Drill holder

It is fixed on a workbench, like a meat grinder.

A drill with such a clamp works as a grinder or

polishing device.

Thank you for watching!

A machine was created based on a large spring

A great and simple idea to make working with a hand-held circular saw more convenient, safer, faster and more precise. The master fitted a large spring. The solution is universal and suitable for grinders and other tools.
I made a platform for the machine.

Attached the door hinge to a circular saw.

Attached to the platform.

I set the sawing guide at an angle of 90 degrees, but you can vary the angle if necessary.

I installed the strut and securely secured the spring.

This is what the finished installation looks like.

The spring works as a return mechanism.

The idea of the author of the video channel Mr. Make Deswal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8Ol2Djo5KU

The idea of a simple cutting machine clamp made the job go faster.

An interesting and very convenient clamp for quick work on a metal cutting machine is used by a master. Usually, not very convenient clamps are used, with which it takes quite a long time to fix the part. Working time and energy are wasted. The clamp is installed on the machine platform. Dimensions of the device for clamping metal and other workpieces. The video will begin immediately with a demonstration of the operation of this device. It is also shown how to make a machine and its attachment.

Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. Homemade machines for home workshops Useful tools for plumbing work

Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop: general information

Manufacturing of tools storage devices: shelves, racks

DIY tool shelves: popular designs

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, videos, technology

Technology and drawings of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: how to make a simple design

Technology for making a universal wooden workbench with your own hands

DIY carpenter's vice design for a workbench

Making a metal workbench with your own hands: how to make a metal structure

Do-it-yourself workbench manufacturing technology: how to assemble

Features of creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

An example of a homemade wood lathe with your own hands

The second example of a DIY woodworking lathe

The principle of making cutters for a wood lathe

DIY knife sharpening devices: drawings and recommendations

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw with your own hands

How to make a circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

Technology for creating a wood cutting machine

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: video on how to make a structure, recommendations

Features of DIY CNC milling machines

Assembling a wood milling machine for a home workshop

Assembling a metal milling machine with your own hands

Features of making a thicknessing machine with your own hands

Assembling a thickness planer from an electric planer with your own hands

Scheme for creating a wood grinding machine with your own hands

Rules for operating a wood jointing machine with your own hands

Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop: general information

Manufacturing of tools storage devices: shelves, racks

DIY tool shelves: popular designs

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, videos, technology

Technology and drawings of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: how to make a simple design

Technology for making a universal wooden workbench with your own hands

DIY carpenter's vice design for a workbench

Making a metal workbench with your own hands: how to make a metal structure

Do-it-yourself workbench manufacturing technology: how to assemble

Features of creating a wood lathe for a home workshop

An example of a homemade wood lathe with your own hands

The second example of a DIY woodworking lathe

The principle of making cutters for a wood lathe

DIY knife sharpening devices: drawings and recommendations

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw with your own hands

How to make a circular saw from a grinder with your own hands

Technology for creating a wood cutting machine

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: video on how to make a structure, recommendations

Features of DIY CNC milling machines

Assembling a wood milling machine for a home workshop

Assembling a metal milling machine with your own hands

Features of making a thicknessing machine with your own hands

Assembling a thickness planer from an electric planer with your own hands

Scheme for creating a wood grinding machine with your own hands

Rules for operating a wood jointing machine with your own hands

The basics are a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories.

“Classic” carpentry workbench

Video: mechanic's workbench with his farts

Homemade machines and equipment

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

Video - a circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

Pendulum saw from an angle grinder - self-production step by step

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

Folding table for the master

Homemade folding stand

Apple puller

Homemade apple press

Tool trolley

What can you make from an electric planer with your own hands?

Grinding device

Cheap homemade grinder

The self-taught self-made man rocked the network with his video

Homemade tool rocks the internet

Uprooting of seedlings and weeds from a square for homemade people

A simple cheap homemade device for picking berries

A few comments.

Machines and devices from a simple drill

Drill holder

A machine was created based on a large spring

The idea of ​​a simple cutting machine clamp made the job go faster.

The idea of a simple cutting machine clamp made the job go faster.