Exists different types manual milling cutters, however, the most used and versatile can be called a manual plunge router, the work of which is described below. Plastic, aesthetically perfect wood and a universal hand router. This combination allows you to obtain products of almost any shape - from the simplest in the form of straight planes, to the most complex, more suitable for works of art than for utilitarian things. Job manual router woodworking represents an opportunity to fully enjoy creativity, creating original, exclusive products.
Types of work performed by a milling cutter
All operations that are carried out using a manual milling cutter can be divided into several categories.Milling of grooves, grooves, quarters and other recesses in the workpiece, which can be located both along and across the layers, be open (proceed to the edge) or closed. With some exceptions, these forms perform certain structural functions - most often they form detachable and permanent connections.
Edge milling- profiling. It is used for the production of molded profile products (cornices, skirting boards, platbands, glazing beads, etc.), as well as for interior design, furniture manufacturing and various kinds crafts. These elements, in addition to being functional, also carry a decorative load.
Milling complex surfaces and contours while creating original furniture, exclusive interiors and product manufacturing for various purposes, claiming artistic sophistication. At the same time, templates are widely used to copy repeating complex shapes with great accuracy, making them almost completely identical.
Milling of special elements, carrying a purely functional load. These are grooves and holes for awnings and locks, tenons, etc. In mass production, these elements are made using specialized milling cutters (filler cutters, etc.). But in everyday life, universal hand-held milling cutters can handle them quite successfully.
To give the product a certain form, it is necessary to ensure accurate positioning of the cutter relative to the workpiece in three coordinates. The vertical position of the tool is ensured by the immersion mechanism, which moves the motor with the cutter along the vertical guides of the frame and locks it in the desired height position.
Positioning in the horizontal plane can be achieved in various ways. Using a guide bearing mounted on the router, or a guide bushing attached to the bearing surface of the router, as well as many special devices supplied with routers and purchased independently or made by hand. Available a large number of for manuals and recommendations describing how to work with a router using these devices, read one of them.
When using cutters with a guide bearing, the latter rolls along the edge of the workpiece or template located below or above the workpiece, thus providing a certain distance between the cutter and the part. Milling cutters that have a guide bearing and process the edges of parts are called edge cutters. They are used only for processing the edges of workpieces. Exist different shapes edge cutters
Profile cutters(a and b) give the edge various shaped profiles that carry a decorative load.
Cone cutter(c) designed for bevelling edges at an angle of 45°.
Moulder cutter(d) used to round edges. It forms a quarter-circle profile and can be different sizes with a circle radius of 3-16 mm.
Disc cutter(e) cuts a horizontal groove of varying depth and width in the workpiece.
Seam cutter(f) is used for milling quarters that perform a wide variety of functions.
Fillet cutter(g) used to obtain fillets on the edge. It is used to make edges decorative.
Milling cutters without guide bearings, called slotted cutters, are designed to cut the workpiece anywhere. Their use requires the use of devices (read about branded and homemade devices for hand routers) that ensure positioning of the cutter in the horizontal plane.
Rectangular slot cutter(a) is perhaps the most used. It is used for milling grooves that ensure the connection of parts - both one-piece and detachable.
Fillet cutter(b) creates semicircular grooves or grooves in the workpiece, often performing decorative functions.
V-shaped cutter(c) forms a groove with walls located at an angle of 45°. If you insert the cutter to a greater depth, you will get a groove with vertical edges. Using a V-shaped cutter, letters and various decorations are cut out.
Milling cutter dovetail" (d) usually used in furniture production when making open and hidden tenon joints.
Fastening the cutter in the router collet
The cutter can be installed both in the engine removed from the frame and in it. It is carried out in the following sequence:- The router is laid on its side.
- The spindle is prevented from turning - depending on the design of the router, wrench or a locking button.
- The clamping nut of the collet is released (if it is screwed onto the collet) or screwed on.
- The cutter shank is inserted into the collet until it stops or at least 20 mm.
- Using a wrench (if the spindle is fixed with a wrench, a second wrench is required), the clamping nut is tightened and the spindle is unlocked.
If there is no cutter in the collet, the clamping nut should not be tightened. This may damage the collet..
Working with a milling cutter involves performing various adjustment operations. One of the main ones is setting the milling depth. It may vary slightly among milling cutters different models, but its principle remains the same for all plunge routers. The essence of the setting is that when the cutter reaches the required depth, the plunge limiter rests on the turret step stop and prevents further immersion of the cutter.
Setting the milling depth: 1 - turret stop, 2 - immersion depth limiter, 3 - depth limiter locking screw, 4 - limiter slider, 5 - fine-tuning mechanism, 6 - immersion scale, 7 - spindle lock for installing the cutter.
The operation is performed in the following order:
- The milling cutter is installed with its supporting surface on the workpiece.
- The turret stop, which sets the immersion depth, is installed with its lowest stop opposite the end of the limiter.
- The limiter locking screw is released, as a result of which the latter gains the ability to move freely in its guides.
- The mechanism of immersion (lowering) of the router is unlocked.
- The motor slowly lowers down until the cutter touches the part.
- The engine lowering mechanism is blocked again.
- The depth stop is lowered until it touches the lowest stop.
- The limit slider is set to "0" on the dive scale.
- The limiter rises to the position at which its slider shows on the immersion scale the value of the milling depth that needs to be set. This operation can be carried out by raising and lowering the stopper by hand (coarse setting) or using a fine adjustment mechanism (fine setting).
- The limiter locking screw is clamped, fixing the slider in the installed position.
- The immersion mechanism is unlocked, and the cutter and the motor rise upward.
Now, if you lower the motor with the cutter to the lowest position (until the end of the limiter touches the shortest pin of the turret stop), the cutter will penetrate into the workpiece to the depth the value of which is set on the scale.
If milling is carried out to a great depth, it must be carried out in stages. This is done by turning the turret stop so that during the first passes the depth stop first rests against the higher stops, and only in the final pass against the lowest stop.
Selecting the cutter rotation speed mode
Unlike rotary hammers, screwdrivers and drills, the rotation speed of the cutter is relatively high - usually over 10,000 rpm. This is explained by the fact that the faster the cutter rotates, the cleaner the cut surface is. However, too high speeds are also undesirable, since the surface being processed can become charred, and excessively increasing centrifugal forces - especially when using cutters large diameter- lead to breakdowns. Therefore, the rotation speed of the cutter is adjusted within certain limits depending on the material being processed and the diameter of the cutter.In fact, the cleanliness of the machined surface is determined not by the rotation speed of the cutter, but by the linear speed of movement of the cutting edge relative to the material. The larger the cutter diameter, the higher the linear speed. Therefore, when using large-diameter cutters, the rotation speed is set lower. For example, for a cutter with a diameter of 10 mm, the speed should be from 20,000 rpm and higher, for a cutter with a diameter of 40 mm - 10,000-12,000 rpm. Specific values are specified in the operating instructions. The rotation speed is also determined by the hardness of the material being processed. The higher the hardness, the lower the number of revolutions of the cutter should be.
After long work at low speeds, the milling cutter should be turned on for several minutes at maximum idle speed to cool the engine.
Cutter rotation direction
The direction of rotation of the cutter can be along or counter. At the first cutting edge The cutter moves relative to the material in the direction opposite to the movement of the router (the edge cuts into the rough surface of the board and comes out at the bottom of the groove being milled). During counter milling, the edge of the cutter moves in the same direction as the movement of the router (plunging begins at the depth of the groove). Up milling is correct; down milling is used only in exceptional cases - when processing edges in which the arrangement of fibers leads to flakes. This method is considered unsafe, as it can lead to the router being pulled out of your hands.
Milling
Milling parts with a manual router, as a rule, involves the use of various devices to ensure the exact position of the router. Therefore, milling techniques are discussed in the article Milling devices, which describes not only branded devices, but also those made by yourself.Before starting milling, the following must be done:
- The cutter is fixed in the collet.
- The engine speed suitable for the job is set.
- The required milling depth is set using the plunge limiter (when working with plunge cutters) or a certain value of the cutter overhang in relation to the base is fixed (when working with edge cutters).
- A guide bearing or ring (when working with edge cutters) or other device is installed to ensure the required path of the cutter. In this case, it must be specified optimal thickness cut - as a rule, no more than 3 mm.
The methods of working with a manual milling cutter differ somewhat depending on the mode in which the work is carried out. But in any case, the router is installed on a base - the workpiece or an auxiliary surface. The guide element of the router (bearing, ring, edge of the sole or other surface) is pressed against the guide edge (part, rail or template), after which the engine is turned on and the cutter begins to plunge first (if the submersible mode is used), then smoothly uniform motion milling cutter along the path specified by the guide element.
Basic safety precautions when working with a router
Safety precautions are described in detail in the operating instructions for the router. The most important ones that are simply vital to know include the following:- Attaching the cutter and setting the router must be done with the power cord unplugged from the outlet.
- Working with a hand router requires care and concentration. When milling, you must stand firmly on your feet and hold the router firmly in your hands. You cannot work while tired, distracted or drunk. This could result in the router being pulled out of your hands and causing serious injury.
- The workpiece must be firmly fixed, otherwise it may be torn out of place by the cutter and thrown with great force and speed.
- When the cutter comes into contact with the material, you need to be especially careful to avoid the so-called kickback - an effect when the cutter hits the material and receives a reciprocal reactive blow, which can lead to the cutter being torn out of your hands, breaking it or causing injury. To prevent a kickback from occurring, you need to hold the router firmly in your hands, firmly press it to the base and smoothly move the tool. The thickness of the cut layer should not be too large - no more than 3 mm.
- Clothes should not have loose elements that could get wrapped around the cutter.
- Avoid inhaling fine dust generated during milling. It is harmful to the lungs. Dust can be sucked out with a vacuum cleaner or a respirator can be used.
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Wood milling can be a profession or a hobby. Beginning craftsmen will be interested in learning about how to choose a hand router, what techniques and rules exist when preparing and working with the tool, and what equipment may be needed when making wood products. Let's talk about this.
Wood milling - mechanical restoration material, removing part of it to create grooves, grooves, edges, holes, figured patterns on the surface, obtaining parts complex shape. A milling cutter is a hand-held power tool for woodworking with a working tool – a milling cutter. A milling cutter is a single- or multi-bladed tool that cuts wood while rotating. The capabilities of the work performed depend on the modification of the router, the number and type of cutters, as well as the density of the wood and the experience of the craftsman.
Types of hand routers
Wood milling is used in the manufacture of furniture, the production and installation of doors, and the laying of wooden floor coverings, for various kinds of crafts. The choice of tool depends on the prospects for its use: special and universal purposes.
Special milling cutters:
- submersible (for holes, grooves, grooves of any depth - the motor with the cutter moves along the vertical axis);
- edging (only for edges, chamfers - with a guide bearing);
- lamellar (for rounded linear grooves);
- dowel (for grooves, for dowels, tongue-and-groove assembly);
1 - submersible; 2 - edging; 3 - lamellar; 4 - dowel
The universal router is equipped with two bases. In this case, the tool works as a submersible tool and processes edges.
When choosing a tool, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- power (for home handyman 0.8-1.3 kW is enough);
- cutter speed;
- correspondence between power and speed;
- type of clamp (the best is a conical collet);
- speed adjustment (smooth, clock);
- maximum immersion depth;
- accuracy of work;
- smooth start;
- security locks;
- presence of a dust extractor.
By determining the level of importance of each parameter, you can find a milling cutter that matches the upcoming tasks and intensity of use.
Types of cutting tools
Structurally, cutters can be monolithic, with replaceable blades, prefabricated, brazed. Materials: carbide or high-speed alloys, cermets, etc. The configuration of the tool corresponds to the recess or edge shape that needs to be obtained on the product.
Types of groove cutters:
- straight;
- fillets;
- structural;
- shaped;
- "dovetail";
- “mouse tooth”, etc.
Types of edge cutters:
- straight;
- moulding;
- disk;
- curly;
- horizontal, etc.
Each cutter is produced in various standard sizes. The easiest way is to purchase a kit containing a set of cutting tools for a specific activity. The diameter of the part to be fixed must correspond to the collet of the router.
How to use a hand router
The easiest way to start learning is with a plunge router. Visually, such a tool is the most bulky and complex, but it is easier to work with, since the direction of the cutter is fixed by the design of the machine perpendicular to the surface being processed.
Step 1. Secure the cutter shank in the collet.
You need to insert the shank into the chuck and tighten it with the key provided for this purpose. At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the tightening force. Overtightening is undesirable and insufficient fixation is also undesirable.
Attention! If you are planning a deep recess, it is better to take a cutter with an extended shank.
Step 2. Setting the excavation depth
If the work is carried out according to the drawings and the groove is shallow, you just need to set the appropriate depth on the limiter and set the fine adjustment (if the model has fine tuning). If milling is done “by eye”, you need to estimate the depth of the tool by placing the milling cutter against the end of the product. The depth can also be selected in stages - when producing more than 3-8 mm (depending on the diameter), precision work or at the learning stage.
Step 3. Testing the operation of the milling cutter
For those who have no milling experience, purchased new tool or working with an unfamiliar type of wood, it is advisable to use a “draft” - the same piece of wood as the future product. You need to test the operation of the cutter, changing the speed, direction (towards you, away from you, turning clockwise and counterclockwise) and the depth of the notch, and monitor the accuracy. Adjust settings.
Step 4. Determine rotation speed
When operating a cutter, an important indicator is the peripheral speed - the rotation speed not of the shank, but of the surface of the cutting tool in its widest part. If the cutter rotates too quickly, it will tear out wood fibers and leave gaps; if it rotates too quickly, the material will get burnt. If the rotation is too slow, the surface of the product will be rough, as if covered with “ripples”.
When adjusting, the rule applies: the larger the diameter of the cutter, the lower the speed on the shank (shaft revolutions) should be. Some manufacturers provide tools with instructions: wood/diameter/speed. If there is no such data, you need to experiment.
1 — too low speed; 2 — too high speed; 3 - uneven movement of the cutter at high speeds; 4 - good result
Step 5. Fixing the product
The wood being processed should not wobble. The result of your work will be spoiled and you may injure yourself. The workpiece must be placed on reliable foundation and secure, for example, with clamps. When using a template, it is also fixed.
Step 6. General rules for preparing for work
Markings must be applied to the workpiece (when working without a template). The milling operator's movements should not be sudden. Smooth start and smooth, uniform movement along the calculated path, a correctly selected number of revolutions is a recipe for an ideal and beautiful result.
When working, you should not lean your whole body on the router or let it float freely. The pressure should be tight, confident, and uniform throughout the entire stage.
Attention! The instructions for the machine will indicate how to hold the router correctly. Each model has handles that ensure safety during operation.
Step 7 Milling the finished product
The start of work can be from the edge of the product (open groove) or in its mass (blind groove). In the first case, you must first install the router and then turn it on. In the second - turn on, and then feed the cutter into desired point. Upon completion of milling, you need to turn off the tool after removing it from the wood.
When making deep grooves and step cuts, you should always turn off the tool for adjustment. The maximum single depth must correspond to the diameter and material of the cutter, and the density of the wood. For getting smooth surface The last removal should be no thicker than 1.5 mm.
It is important to correctly determine the speed of movement of the router along the line being processed. Too slow will cause overheating and burns. If you move too quickly, sawdust will not be removed in time, the work will be difficult, and it may look sloppy.
The basic rule when choosing the direction of movement of the router is: in the direction of the approach of the cutter blades (cutting edges). This applies to both free milling and tooling.
To process edges and obtain a certain edge configuration, sometimes the router is fixed under the table, with the router rising above the tabletop, and woodworking is performed by moving the workpiece relative to the router. Thus, from the category hand tool goes into the category of a mini-machine.
Equipment for working with a hand router
To make work easier and faster, it is advisable to use simple devices, such as:
- guide bars;
- parallel stop;
- rod compass;
- copy sleeves;
- templates
All devices can be purchased, and some can even be made independently and improved to match the author's idea.
The parallel stop ensures the straight movement of the cutter relative to the workpiece, the edge of the workbench, and the guide bar. This device is usually included with the tool.
The guide rail (bar) allows you to guide the tool not parallel to the edge, but at any given angle. It must be secured to the table with clamps. Homemade option— fixed wooden limiter bar.
A rod compass is needed to make circles, arcs, and geometric curves. When working with a compass, the movement should be performed in a counterclockwise direction.
The copying sleeve makes it easier to guide the tool along a complex path and ensures accuracy. In combination with templates, the best results are achieved.
There are two types of templates: internal and external. It all depends on whether the tool moves along the inner or outer edge. When driving along inner contour template, the router must be driven clockwise, outward - counterclockwise. The template must be thick enough so that the copy sleeve does not touch the workpiece.
You must also work with a milling cutter using equipment carefully, smoothly and equally progressively, as with free milling. Perhaps the first time you will get a not very outstanding milling result. This is the type of work where experience and attention to detail are very important.
After purchasing a hand router, a novice craftsman may have questions about the operating technology. True, as a rule, a router is purchased by people who already have an understanding of woodworking, but this is not always the case. Therefore, first you just need to get acquainted with the router and the popular cutter profiles.
This article is specifically for beginners, so let's start with the most basic things. When purchasing a router, you need to check the completeness; the set should contain keys for tightening the nut, a removable stop, and bits (cutters). A good router may include spare brushes, a collet, and additional guides with a roller or pin.
The cutter is installed from below, into the hole on the shaft and is fixed with a collet using a clamping nut. On a router, the stop pad is movable; it allows you to change the depth of cut. The depth is fixed with a special clamp with a handle, and the exact depth is set using a nut on a threaded rod. The appearance and shape of the locking clips may differ slightly from different instruments, but the operating principle is the same for all.
Before starting work, you need to tighten the nut on the collet well, set the depth and tighten the lock.
Remember that when you move the router quickly, small chips may appear on the profile, and the load on the tool will increase noticeably. Slow movement of the cutter gives a cleaner profile, but there is a risk of burning on the profile. Which is also not good, then it’s difficult to sand out these places.
In order to make profiles on the edges of parts, there are cutters with a support bearing.
Milling on the edges of tabletops is called the general word “kalevka”, although the profiles themselves may differ in shape.
To cut profiles at a distance from the edge of the part, end mills without bearings are used. In this case, it is necessary to use a guide stop, otherwise the grooves and grooves will not turn out smooth. In any case, the router and cutter must go along some kind of stop. For more serious work it will be useful.
Set of cutters.
A cone cutter is used to cut a V-shaped groove. A groove or groove is made both to decorate the surface and to assemble parts.
Dovetail grooving cutter is used in processing parts for making tenon joints.
Profile cutters with support bearing, used for edge processing wooden parts. This profile is suitable for countertops; we can say that this is one of the “moulded” options.
A cutter for cutting an internal oval on the edges of parts, the old name is “fillet”. Usually such cutters are called “mushroom”.
To remove a sharp edge, use a milling cutter sharpened to 45*. This profile is often used and is called “chamfer”.
Pictures diynetwork.com
Milling is the cutting process of metals and non-metallic materials, in which cutting tool– cutter – has rotational movement, and the workpiece being processed is progressive.
It is used for processing planes, curved surfaces of parts, threaded surfaces, teeth of gear and worm wheels, etc.
It is carried out on milling machines.
This definition is given by the Polytechnic Dictionary (Moscow, “ Soviet encyclopedia", 1989). It clearly requires addition, because the possibility of milling with hand-held power tools is not mentioned at all. This is what our article is dedicated to.
Let's start with the fact that there are different types of manual milling cutters: edge milling, rod, rodless and simply specialized, for example, for tapping door locks or repair window frames. Let us dwell in detail on the most universal and, as a result, the most popular - rod ones.
Such a tool consists of two parts: the upper part, which includes the motor, handles, Collet clamp, vertical position clamps, and lower ones - with rods, support sole and turret stop. Machines of this type are distinguished by the fact that they allow immersion into the material being processed to the required (within the limits of capabilities) depth.
Using examples specific operations Let's look at the important design features of modern devices of this type.
Getting ready for work
Let's start with the basics - preparing for work. Depending on the material and task, a cutter is selected. For soft wood, plywood, MDF and aluminum, an attachment with high-speed steel (HSS) knives is used; the more expensive, precise and resistant one with carbide blades (HM) is not prohibited.
In other cases - chipboard, hardwood, composite compositions like artificial marble and the like - the use of NM is mandatory. As already mentioned, one of important features carbide blades - precision: they leave a cleaner surface.
Depending on the diameter of the cutter and the material, the rotation speed is set. Since the adjustment wheel is usually marked in conventional units, you will have to use instructions that indicate when to set what. Generally speaking, setting the speed is a very responsible procedure.
Firstly, large-diameter equipment may not withstand too high a speed, and secondly, it is important to choose the right mode. If the frequency is too high, there is a risk of “burning” the workpiece; if the frequency is too low, productivity drops and the quality of processing deteriorates.
Having decided on the speed and type of cutter, install the equipment. The risks on the shank will help you do this correctly - you need to focus on them. If you need to deviate from a prescription (or there simply isn’t one), use simple rule- fix 2/3-3/4 of the total length of the shank.
When buying “consumables”, it is important to remember that the clamp diameters are different. Typically, collets are available for 6, 8 or 12 mm shanks. If you can’t find the right size equipment, don’t worry – just change the collet. It is an insert located inside the hollow drive shaft and secured with a nut.
So, it's time to clamp the cutter. This is done with an open-end wrench, having previously secured the shaft. Simpler models will need a second key, mid-level tools have a locking button, but the most convenient latch is also equipped with a “ratchet” - in this case you won’t even have to grab it.
The cutter is clamped into the collet using an open-end wrench and a shaft locking mechanism. If the latter is not provided, you will need a second key. IN in this case installation is extremely simplified - the stopper is equipped with a switchable (unscrewing/wrapping) “ratchet”. The cutter is clamped, guided by the markings on it or based on the general rule (2/3-3/4 of the length of the shank).
The “head” of the tool is lowered until the cutter stops against the surface, after which it is convenient to fix it. Next, based on the reach of the cutting equipment and the desired depth of processing, select the lowest of the suitable “legs” of the turret stop. This allows you to pass workpieces in several stages without repeating precise adjustments.
Often the position of each “leg” can be adjusted within small limits. The support rod is lowered onto the selected “stand”, having first released its clamp. Without fixing it, but only pressing it with a finger, they move the movable pointer along it, ensuring that it coincides with the zero of the measuring ruler.
The bar is raised until the pointer coincides with the required division of the measuring scale and clamped with a clamp.
If the operation requires precision, a good router allows you to adjust the set depth value. It is changed without loosening (so as not to knock down) the fixation of the support rod, but by rotating the adjustment wheel. This can be done in advance, having achieved an exact match between the marks of the pointer and the scale, or after a trial pass.
When the “head” is lowered, the cutter will enter the workpiece to the depth set on the calibrated scale.
Milling depth
The next setup step is setting the immersion depth. It is set by a vertical stop, which can have several stages of adjustment. The most popular is the position of the stop itself. Having rested it on the lowest of the legs of the “revolver” (if possible), loosen the clamps of the stop (usually a wing clamp is implemented) and the “head” itself and lower it until the cutter touches the surface.
Note that it is not at all necessary to use a workpiece; it is better to perform this operation on the plane of the workbench, without the risk of damaging the part.
Now you need to fix the movable stop or simply hold it with one hand, and with the other set the movable pointer (it “moves” up and down) opposite the zero division of the measuring scale, thereby calibrating the ruler. That's it, she's ready to go.
By moving the stop and following the pointer, adjust the depth and tighten the screw of the movable stop. If the router is “simple”, then the adjustment is complete. Otherwise, the immersion depth is adjusted more accurately. The position of the movable (already fixed) stop is changed with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter by turning the adjusting wheel.
It has latches (“clicks” along the divisions) or simply rotates tightly. The first option is better, since the installation will not fail during operation. It is good when such adjustment is implemented within wide limits, and it is very convenient when it can be done directly during operation.
Milling
Without going into the specifics of the operations and skipping the “Positioning the machine on a plane” point, we’ll tell you how to get started. Having established the maximum immersion depth, it is, if necessary, “divided” into several steps - the turret stop is designed for this. In the vast majority of cases, it has three adjustable legs.
Sometimes there are more of them, for example eight, which, however, is not considered a sign of a high-class instrument, but rather speaks of originality. Without touching the leg on which the immersion depth was set, set the steps higher. The logic of action here is the same as in the case of revolutions - too large a cross-section of the passage at once will lead to slow movement and “burning” of the material, too small - to a loss of productivity.
Optimum is important. By turning the drum and moving from a high stop to a low one, they move along the workpiece to the desired depth.
Starting each pass, proceed like this. Turn on the motor, lower the cutter (into the material or outside the workpiece, depending on the situation) and secure the “head” with a stopper. If there are several passes or there is no confidence that the operation was successful, it is repeated. It is important to remember that you need to move along the workpiece in a strictly defined direction - the material is towards the rotating knives.
It is impossible to drive the router “backwards”, as this will lead to defects. The direction of movement is usually indicated by an arrow on the sole; it is the same for all models.
A few words about the rod mechanism for raising/lowering the “head”. It is important to pay attention to the manufacturing class. Movement should be smooth and easy, without distortions or backlashes. It’s good when the stopper acts on two rods - with this arrangement, the rigidity and accuracy of fixation is higher.
We hope that the reader has already understood that the main thing in a router is adjustments. They are required to ensure accuracy (this, by the way, largely depends on the rigidity of the structural elements) and convenience. But if you delve into the intricacies of performing operations, it becomes clear that something else is no less important - the system.
By it is meant manual machine with devices for its positioning on the plane (without the latter, the router will be of little use, at least its versatility will suffer greatly). Let's start the story about the “mill + guide vane” system with the simplest cases.
Cutter with support bearing
The most elementary and compact device that sets the position of the machine is the cutter itself, if it is supplemented with a miniature ball bearing. Is it located under or above cutting knives and, accordingly, rests on the upper or lower edge of the edge. With the help of such equipment, shaped edges are obtained or grooves are cut for a connection, edging, seal, etc.
The advantages of the method include the ease of preparatory operations (you only need to adjust the vertical position) and the ability to accurately process rounded and curved edges (a typical example is a tabletop). The disadvantages follow from the advantages - it will not be possible to make a curve straight.
Rip fence
All of the above can be done with a regular cutter without a support bearing (it’s cheaper), if you use copy ring or rip fence. Let's start with emphasis. All milling cutters without exception are equipped with it, but this does not mean that it is the same for everyone. In the simplest case, the stop is a bent metal plate on two steel rods with a cutout in the center.
Guides with locks are provided for them in the sole of the router. To ensure rigidity, they are made long (the entire slab) or short, but double - two spaced apart for each rod. Fixation occurs at a minimum of two points (one on each side), and a maximum of four.
In the “primitive” version, such a stop has significant disadvantages - low rigidity of the stamped structure, difficulty in fine-tuning the position, restrictions on the diameter of the cutter used (it must fit in the central cutout), and the inability to adjust the base of the supporting surface. As the accessory becomes more complex, it gets rid of these shortcomings. For example, consider the most interesting design, omitting the intermediate ones.
The rods are fixed in the sole not with separate clamps, but with one, acting on both sides at once - this is more convenient. After the “pins” are clamped, the position of the support shoe is set - it is not made integral with the rods, but is capable of moving along them. It also has two clamps with one (which is more convenient) or two locking screws.
After rough adjustment, loosen the additional lock and move the supporting part of the shoe, rotating the adjustment wheel. As with the vertical adjustment, there are dimensional divisions here. Having set the required value, the additional stopper is fixed.
Next, if necessary, the pads are moved apart or brought closer together, thereby expanding the base and/or adjusting the size of the central gap between them to fit a cutter of a specific diameter. The final and most important note is that the base of the mechanism is not stamped steel, but cast from a light alloy.
The rip fence is useful when working with an edge or when milling into a surface at a given distance from the edge. They work both along an even contour and along a curved one. The “disadvantages” of such a positioning device are as follows: limited distance from the edge and the complexity of the process.
High-quality milling requires a certain skill and a steady hand. For example, it is easy to “overwhelm” the line at the beginning and end of the workpiece when the stop does not contact the edge along the entire length of the base. If the indentation is large, the risk of deviating from the perpendicular to the edge (or tangent to it when it is curved) also increases.
For convenience and accuracy of work, adjust the base side stop. When the jaws are as close as possible, it is easier to start and finish the passage. When bringing the “shoes” closer together, you must remember that when lowering the cutter, it can meet them if the distance from the edge is insignificant.
A maximally expanded base will facilitate long passes at a great distance from the edge, when the torque is high, moving the stop line away from the perpendicular to the edge.
The router is placed on the marking line, the stop is brought to the edge and fixed. In this case, both rods are clamped by rotating one handle, usually with several “personal” screws.
Having released the lock of the precision adjustment mechanism, rotate the adjustment screw to achieve precise installation of the stop.
After the adjustment is completed, the mechanism is fixed.
Fine adjustment allows you to achieve complete coincidence of the marking line and the axis of the cutter. To facilitate the procedure, a “sight sight” is made on the sole, which is easier to navigate.
Guide rail
When it comes to straight lines, a guide rail is a good alternative to the rip fence. It is fixed at an arbitrary distance from the edge and at any angle to it. Instead of a stop, a special shoe is installed on the rods - it slides along the tire and sets the position of the router. Due to the support on the guide, a height difference may occur as the machine is raised above the workpiece. In order not to keep it suspended, they pull it out support leg(if provided).
In a special configuration, such guides also serve for precise milling of holes, which is especially important when making furniture (the ruler has holes with a standard pitch, the machine has a stopper; all you have to do is select the desired positions and drill).
Important note: a set of parts for working along the guide is not purchased in all cases; it must be included in the manufacturer's list of accessories and be suitable for the specific router.
The tire is fixed relative to the workpiece. The router is positioned along it using a “shoe” similar to a side stop, and can be placed on at different distances from her. Since only part of the platform rests on the tire, an additional “leg” is extended.
Copy ring
In some cases, the copy sleeve is installed in one movement; in this case, alignment is not required. 
There are other additional devices, but more on them later. Now let's talk about the copy ring - one of the mandatory attributes of a manual router, almost always included in the package. The device is very simple, but easy to use and useful.
Typically, this is a stamped steel plate with a raised ring around the center hole, which serves as a stop that tracks the copy template. The sleeve is selected for a specific cutter. Ideally, it should pass through the central hole with a small gap. In other words, you should not rely on the only ring that comes with the tool.
Most often, the bushing needs to be centered using a special cone. It is inserted into the collet (all the way to the copy ring), thereby leveling the position, and only then the mounting screws are finally tightened. Sometimes quick-release clamps are used instead of the latter, then there is no need to center anything.
The principle of operation of the equipment is simple - the protruding ring side in the center is guided along the template. In this case, the cutter follows the bends on the workpiece. The main “disadvantage” of such a “device” is one - it is impossible to obtain exact copy- it will always be larger than the original.
This method is convenient in mass production (naturally, we are talking about household scales) or when the workpiece is valuable enough and it is worth making a template for its processing.
For accurate and comfortable work The router must have a smooth sole. When the copy sleeve is not in use, the groove intended for it is closed with a ring.
For precise and comfortable work, the router must have a smooth sole. When the copy sleeve is not in use, the groove intended for it is closed with a ring.
A similar bushing with the required diameter support ring, it is screwed on, but the mounting screws are not tightened.
For precise positioning of the bushing, a centering body is installed. It is clamped into a collet like a regular cutter (with the only difference being that the support sole is pressed against the body).
After installing the cone, the lowering mechanism stopper is released, and the sole, under the action of lifting springs, presses the cone to the bushing, thereby accurately centering it. Having secured the stopper again, the bushing fastening screws are securely tightened.
If the template provides reliable support for only one side of the platform, an additional “support” is pulled out on the other and secured with a locking screw. If you don't do this, there is a high risk of losing exactly.
Angle stop
It is possible to get an exact (one to one) copy of the original by installing an angle stop with a feeler gauge (like many other accessories, it can be purchased separately). In this case, the workpiece is placed not under, but above the template. For precise adjustment of dimensions, adjustment of the position of the probe can be provided.
By the way, if you install a support plate or an adjustable stop for working in a horizontal position instead of a bracket with a probe, you will get a tool for flush milling of edge overlays.
Compass
A special case of curved cutting is along the radius. A compass ruler, purchased separately, will help you complete it without templates, which means more accurately and with less effort.
The sole of the router is rigidly screwed to the “compass”; The radius is set by moving along the “center” guide. The centering pin is inserted into the hole drilled in the workpiece. There are designs in which the “compass” is a side stop or an additional device mounted on the rods.
Flaw similar design- not every cutter will pass through the hole provided in the substrate.
Dust extraction
About general features hand milling machines, perhaps, that's all. Let us only note that important has a dust removal system, because the place where this tool is “registered” is a workshop. Standard option- casing fixed from below, under rip fence. The efficiency of such a collection is average, as is the other type - the side “bumper”. It is better when it is placed on top, however, only if the upper hole for the cutter is not too large.
Examples of using
As for the most famous work for a router - along the edge - no comments here, everything is clear: choose an attachment for the desired style and material, a method of positioning on the plane (cutter with a support roller, copying according to a template using a sleeve or an angular stop, on the workpiece itself using a side stop or guide bar) and get down to business. Actions with selecting grooves on a plane (decorative or technological) also do not require explanation.
What else can a milling cutter do?
The next group of typical tasks is the sidebar. Most models can easily cope with the preparation seats under invoices or furniture hinges. More advanced ones, with increased vertical travel, will help with the installation of mortise locks.
A wide range of applications for hand routers involves joining parts made of wood and its derivatives. The simplest (do not require complex equipment) are tongue-and-groove joints and bindings. They are used in the manufacture of windows, doors and many other prefabricated joinery products. As a rule, two paired cutters are used (profile and counter-profile). As already mentioned, the tool facilitates precise drilling for dowels.
A rather expensive, but justifiable device for its price is a tenon-cutting device. Essentially, it is a complex and precision-made workpiece clamp, complete with copy template. They work on it with a special copy sleeve. It not only rests on the plane of the template, but also “holds” onto it from the reverse side due to a small side.
Two or four mating parts are fastened at once (from the other edge, each pair is worked separately), while special stops set the required displacement of the workpieces relative to each other. Next, set up the router. Clamp a specially shaped attachment (“dovetail”) and set the milling depth in accordance with the reference table. The density of the connection, that is, the gap in the tenon-socket pair, depends on it.
With precise adjustment, it is not difficult to achieve a “zero” gap - after assembly, the structure will hold tightly without glue or other additional fixation measures. Such compounds are used, for example, in the manufacture of furniture from solid wood of valuable species.
It is easy to get connections for a straight tenon - you will need a different template and nozzle.
As part of our article, we briefly outlined the main technological operations, but in fact there are much more of them. Which is not surprising, since the router is even used for artistic purposes to apply engravings (again, with a special pen cutter).
It is important to understand that this tool, with rare exceptions, is not a self-sufficient thing and requires all kinds of equipment and devices. Without them, he will hardly reveal even a quarter of his capabilities.
It is for this reason that you should treat your purchase as responsibly as possible, paying attention not so much to the device itself, but to the list of branded (some may not be suitable!) accessories for it.
Milling cutters
Working with a stop or guide and using a special cutter, make grooves for installing furniture hinges. For precise longitudinal positioning of holes, you can use a special tire that allows you to rigidly fix the position of the router at standard length intervals.
Some tenon joints are made using one cutter (a counter profile is not needed).
Special cutters required for making binding.
One of the cutters (profile) forms the edge of the part; pair (counter-profile) “pass” the end of the mating workpiece.
One of the cutters (profile) forms the edge of the part; pair (counter-profile) “pass” the end of the mating workpiece. This equipment is easy to use and also allows you to mill curved edges.
This equipment is easy to use and also allows you to mill curved edges.
Tenoning device
Depending on the type of template, a cutter is installed. By adjusting the depth of its immersion, the density of the connection is set. It can be assembled by tension or with glue (it is necessary to provide a gap for it). Using special windows in the template, the longitudinal position of the workpiece stops is set and they are turned with the side corresponding to the template.
A special copy sleeve is installed on the router. To increase the accuracy of vertical positioning, it has a lip on the support ring, which allows you to grip the template plate from both sides.
Guided by general rule The tool is guided against the cutter stroke, the workpiece is passed from the center to the edge. It is recommended to make a trim first (pass the template along the protrusions without “going into” them) - this will avoid chipping.
The modern market offers many technical devices with which the user can express himself in various types of creativity. We're even talking about self-production furniture. So that it turns out durable, high-quality, and most importantly, indistinguishable in appearance from production samples, used special tool– wood router.
A router is a device for processing wood, less commonly used for metal. There are two main types of such equipment:
- stationary milling machine, in which the cutter is fixed motionless, and the workpiece is moved by the efforts of the operator;
- manual frezer, which is manually moved along the fixed workpiece.
Manual frezer
The first type of device is usually used in production. Used in everyday life manual option tool.
By the way, if necessary, a manual router can be secured using various devices and turned into a milling machine.
In addition to the task of working with flat surfaces, a wood router is used to cut out technological recesses(for example, notch for hinges, tongue, groove, etc.). All this work can be done with a hand router, and the result will look much neater, and the work itself will be done more quickly than without using a tool.
With the help of such an “assistant,” people with little knowledge can also show interest in carpentry. physical strength(women, teenagers, elderly people). This is understandable - when working with the tool you do not need to use almost any effort. However, before making plans for this activity, it is necessary to understand the structure of the apparatus and the features of its functioning.
How does a hand router work?
The device of a manual wood router is quite simple. The device has a housing in which key components and elements are located. The most important of them is driving force– motor. A holder protrudes directly from the body - it will be insert collets. These are special adapters into which you can insert and fix cutters of different diameters.
It is worth mentioning separately platform, which is usually made of metal. It can be attached separately to the body with rods. The lower part has a sliding plate made of smooth material - this will help the tool move smoothly from point to point. Important parameter— platform stability. It is better if it is made of cast (for expensive models) or stamped (for budget options) material. This will ensure a better fit to the surface. The lower part of the platform is covered with a plastic cover, often removable, for easy replacement.
There are buttons on the body to turn it on and off. It's good if they have company lock button. When working, it is comfortable to use a parallel fence.
For a manual router, use the following settings:
- depth of work (steps from 1 to 10 mm);
- regulation of the number of revolutions (that is, the speed of rotation of the cutter).
All parts and assemblies require appropriate care. In a newly purchased product, this role is played by factory lubricant. However, in the future, this responsibility will be assigned to the user himself: it will be necessary to clean the dust and manually lubricate the moving parts.
Types of cutters used
Each type of material being processed requires the use of an appropriate attachment. Externally, the cutter consists of two parts: the cutting edge (working part) and the shank. It is important to know that pliable soft woods are processed with attachments made from lightweight materials, while hard wood species require an appropriate hard cutter.
There is another classification of nozzles:
- profile - simple processing of wood products;
- cone-shaped - processing at an angle;
- rectangular - working with grooves;
- V-shaped to produce holes with a 45-degree slope;
- disk - you can create different grooves in width and depth;
- molding will help to round the edge;
- rebated for quarter milling;
- “swallow’s nest” – tenon joints;
- fillets to create details of the same name on the edges.
It is worth knowing: for a manual household router you should use bearingless attachments - this will help in processing tools in any convenient place.
Device capabilities
A router is used to perform many operations on wood: the use of this device is limited only by the user’s imagination. He is irreplaceable in carpentry and furniture workshops, will help during finishing and repair works. Among the most common possibilities are:
- milling of quarters, grooves, grooves, both as a structural element and decoration;
- profiling when using edges (production of skirting boards, platbands, cornices, glazing beads);
- solving everyday problems - for example, recesses for locks on doors;
- creating holes (through or blind);
- processing of ends and edges;
- cutting out patterns, details, drawings.
For beginners, it is better to start with the simplest details. Later, users gain experience and dexterity - then they can create real masterpieces. Having learned to work well with a router, you can even create your own in-demand business.
How to use hand tools
The principle of operation is to drill certain holes with cutters selected for these purposes, immersed to a depth determined by the user.
- A nozzle selected by diameter is selected.
- The shank snaps into the chuck no more than 2 cm.
- The router is installed to the desired depth.
- The tuning knob is moved to the middle position (between minus and plus).
It is important to know: the larger the cutter, the lower the rotation speed should be. For a cutter diameter of 1 cm, the speed is 20,000 rpm, and for a 4-cm nozzle, you need to set it to 10,000 rpm.
Usually the requirements are specified in the attached manual. While working, the tool can be held in your hands or fixed on the table— the last option should be used when processing small parts. When fixing on the table, the router should point with the spindle up.
The router is fixed on the bed
After turning on the tool, it is important to adhere to following rules. On work surface it is recommended to install ruler-guide(or an arc-shaped pattern if you are working on a semicircle). This will help create straight lines. If we are talking about working on a router with various parts in a variable profile, they will come in handy narrow-edge rulers. They can be attached perpendicular to the workpiece.
The router should be used without neglecting safety precautions to eliminate the risk of injury.
- The device must be moved along the product in the opposite direction from the movement of the cutter. Otherwise, you may not be able to hold the device.
- It is important to take a stable position - this will help you not to lose your balance. All parts should also be firmly secured.
- The tool must be held very tightly - contact with the material “gives” a small blow. Otherwise, the device may fly out of your hands and create a traumatic situation.
- The user should dress in special protective suit, tucked in without the ability to wrap around the plywood. To protect your respiratory system (fine dust may occur), it is recommended to wear a respirator.
- After finishing work or during a break, you must turn off the device from the network.