Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor and condenser module and an internal evaporator module with an appropriate number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied, and condensate is removed. This scheme complicates the installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, it is enough to read the instructions, fill in the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space in small apartments, a wall-mounted air conditioner is usually used. Such a split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for a strong wall mount. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

installation of separate wiring;
installation of an external condenser unit;
fastening of the evaporator (internal block);
connection of communications with vacuuming;
test inclusion.

Instruments

You will need a tool to install the split yourself. The set is recommended to include:

a drill with a puncher and an appropriate set of drills that can break through a solid concrete wall;
pipe cutter for neat cutting of pipes without the threat of clogging with copper chips;
a set for flaring the edges of the tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
An example that can be used to clean the ends of connections;
a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess tightness;
vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by evacuation;
indicator screwdriver and tester for laying electrical wiring;
pressure gauge.

How to choose a seat

Before installing the split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the outdoor unit, the place must:

protect the device from direct sunlight and dust;
guarantee the stability of the structure;
provide free space sufficient for the normal operation of the device.

Here, such a situation is excluded, and the visor provides the necessary protection for the unit. Ease of maintenance is an added bonus. When choosing a place for the compressor you need:

provide protection from heating by the sun or heating;
eliminate the risk of ignition of various fumes and gas leaks;
provide the necessary free space according to the instructions and the distance from the floor along the perimeter of the block;
prevent pickups from constantly operating electrical appliances (at least a meter distance);
guarantee the strength of the wall, which does not allow the collapse of the structure.

Installation of separate wiring

Split system, even in the most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than the 90th year.

For her you need:

two-core wire with a cross section of 1.5 to 2 mm, necessarily copper;
16A cut off switch.

If you plan to hide the wiring in the strobe, then you should take care of this during the repair so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after the repair, the solution could be to install additional wiring in the box. Either way, this will:

avoid overload;
prevent device failure.
eliminate the risk of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condensing unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the place where it is decided to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

on the open balcony;
on the loggia;
on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The function of protection will be performed by a regular visor of the balcony.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will disable the air conditioner.

Open doors will help to avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia, especially in winter. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support the weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. For their fastening it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, it is necessary to mark the mounting points. Check them horizontally and vertically with a level. After that, the work is performed in the following order:

Holes are drilled according to the markup and anchors are inserted.
The mounting plate is fastened with screws;
In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
A waterproofing glass with a tube is mounted in the holes.
a check is made for the correct connection of the wire to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
Pipes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding nozzles.
If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts put on, they are pre-flared.
A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires with the help of electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
The indoor unit is hung on the mounting plate.

After completing the above work, you can install the outdoor unit on the previously fixed brackets and bring the route to it. Excessive efforts should be avoided when bending the tubes, in order to avoid deformation and wrinkles (permissible bending radius of at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the pavement, then you need to take care of alternative options for removing condensate indoors.

Sealing and evacuation

It is impossible to correctly install the split without sealing and evacuating communications. The joints are sealed with a soapy solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, the nuts are carefully tightened 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is carried out, which removes air, dust and moisture residues. For this:

open several running ports;
connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mm Hg;
close the low pressure lever;
turn off the pump, return the plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, we fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is switched on by means of a disconnector. When the installation is done correctly, the air conditioner will automatically enter the test mode. Its result should be:

normal flow of cold air;
the correct position of the blinds;
condensate outflow through the drain.

If you have all the signs of a split, you can operate it on a daily basis. Otherwise, you will need to contact a specialist. This will void your air conditioner warranty.

So it is not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It is better to immediately weigh your strength and think about inviting a specialist.

November 15, 2019 No comments

How to save money on installing an air conditioner: detailed recommendations for installing a do-it-yourself climate system.

No need to wait until the summer heat still forces you to install air conditioning. It is better to deal with this problem in advance. Then you can save a significant amount. In addition, you can perform installation work yourself, without involving masters from outside.

The equipment must work without failure. When installing the air conditioner, you should strictly follow the instructions and choose a suitable place. If the technical conditions do not correspond to the norm, or if the details are chosen incorrectly, the split system will break down very quickly.

To properly install the unit, you first need to understand the principle of its operation and device. The conditioner consists of:

from the evaporator block;
from the compressor
from the pipes connecting these two systems.

A compressor is installed on the outer side of the wall, and an evaporator is installed in the room. In expensive models, there are several indoor units connected to one compressor at once.

The refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator unit by means of a pressurized nozzle. Once in the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands and boils. Vapors of this substance are taken to absorb heat with high intensity. At the same time, water condensate is released, which settles in the evaporator unit - on its radiator. From there, the moisture enters the reservoir, and then it is discharged outside the building through a tube.

Throughout this period, the refrigerant evaporation accumulating in the chamber is pumped out by the compressor, and the pressure behind the pump rises. Further, the refrigerant heats up, turning from a liquid into a mist, the density of which is high. The refrigerant in a state of high-density mist enters a chamber designed for condensate and equipped with a radiator. There it is cooled by a fan, again turning into a liquid. And then it under pressure again enters the evaporator nozzle. According to this scheme, the workflow is repeated again and again.

Air conditioner efficiency

How efficiently the equipment will work, and how much electricity will be spent, depends on the specific operating conditions.

Condition one. Suppose a heating device is installed next to the air conditioner. Then the compressor:

will work almost continuously;
will consume a lot of energy;
will soon be out of order.

Condition two. Ordinary dust that has penetrated into the system can reduce the performance of the air conditioner and even disable it. So you should regularly and thoroughly carry out wet cleaning.

Condition three. It is not allowed to put any objects on the surface of the block.

Condition four. Do not cover the air conditioner.

Condition five. Evaporation of the refrigerant can be eliminated if, when installing the system, carefully seal any joints and joints.

Condition six. The outdoor unit must be lower than the indoor unit. For its installation, it is necessary to choose the coolest zone on the outer side of the wall. For example, a roof overhang can form an eternal shadow.

If all the above conditions for installing the air conditioner are observed, then the system will work smoothly, creating the desired comfort in the premises.

Description of air conditioner parts

The air flow blows the air conditioner. For this purpose, a fan is installed in the system.

The condenser / radiator is responsible for cooling the freon and its condensation. The air blown through the condenser is heated.

In the compressor, freon is compressed and in this state moves along the refrigeration circuit. Compressors of the following types are used:

spiral (scroll);
piston.

Piston systems are cheaper, but less reliable. Their reliability is especially reduced if the outside temperature drops too much.

In the designs of reversible air conditioners (producing cold and heat), there is a four-way valve. When the heating mode is set, the direction of freon movement is changed using the valve. Then the purpose of the indoor and outdoor units changes in fact:

the indoor unit starts heating;
the outdoor unit is cooling.

Only on inverter models there is a control board. If the model is not inverter, all electronics are usually placed in the indoor unit. It is taken into account that high humidity and significant temperature changes can significantly reduce the performance of electronic components.

Blocks internal with external are connected by copper pipes. And the pipes are fastened with fittings.

Before the compressor inlet there is a filter of the freon system. The filter is designed to protect the compressor from the penetration of small particles (primarily copper chips). They enter the system when the capacitor is mounted.

But if the installation was carried out in violation of technology, a lot of debris could enter the system. Then you should not expect that the filter will cope with the problem.

The terminal block is intended for the supply of electronic cables. Terminal blocks and fitting connections are protected by a quick-release cover. There are models where the protective cover covers only the terminal block, but the union connections remain uncovered.

What tools are required for self-installation of the air conditioner

Here are the tools you should have on hand.

Vacuum pump.

Bicycle load.

Indicator.

Tester for electrical systems.

Perforator.

Pressure gauge.

Pipe cutter.

Reamer.

A set used for expanding pipes.

You should also stock up on a bay of copper tube, the ends should be rolled in the factory. Dents, scratches, other defects are unacceptable.

When to start work

It is best to install an air conditioner during a major overhaul. All the same, the wall decoration will be damaged, because you will have to make a through breakdown.

Air conditioner installation rules

After purchasing the air conditioner and unpacking it, you can proceed with the installation of the system. Of course, provided that all the necessary tools are available.

The outdoor unit is installed first. After completing its installation, you can proceed to mount the system indoors.

If work is carried out in an apartment on the second floor and above, special safety rules must be observed.

If the air conditioner is installed in a private house, then the outdoor unit is easy to place. But its installation on the building of an apartment building raises many questions.

Should be considered. It is unacceptable for the block to block neighbors' view from the window. Also, do not allow condensate to flow down the wall.

The air conditioner is attached in such a way that it can be reached from the balcony. After all, the unit will periodically have to be serviced.

It is best to fix the block on the north or east side of the window (balcony). It is advisable to install the system in the lower part of your outdoor territory. Then, if necessary, it will be easier to reach the system by opening the window.

Using a tool such as a level, the attachment points for the brackets are marked. Holes are drilled in the wall for the installation of anchor bolts.

To conduct inter-unit communication, a through hole is drilled. A sufficient diameter is 8 cm. If the wall is brick, it is advisable to make a hole between the bricks, at the place where they are laid. Then the hole will come out more accurate, and less effort will be expended.

Given the markup, brackets are installed. After alignment, they are bolted. Mount the outdoor unit in such a way that there is a gap of 10 cm (or wider) between the wall surface and the unit.

Next, the system is connected, as well as closing the resulting gap. Before proceeding to the next stage of installation of the structure, you should make sure that the outdoor unit is fixed sufficiently securely.

A place for fixing the indoor unit is selected. The mounting plate is attached. Need to step back:

from the corner of the wall - 5 cm;
from the ceiling - 10 cm.

pipes;
electrical wiring (cable);
hoses to drain condensate.

Important! The indoor unit cannot be fixed:

above the battery

behind the curtain;

in a room where there is a source of electrical interference;

at the place where communication takes place (water or heating pipe, electrical wiring).

How to connect the power supply

For the indoor unit, wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters is laid. mm. There must be an automatic shutdown. There is a shield at the input, and the wiring is connected to it after the completion of its installation along the wall. The zero wire becomes the one that has a yellow color and a green stripe. To identify the phase and zero, you must use the indicator.

And then stranded wires passed through the wall are connected to the terminals of each of the blocks. The names of the terminals must necessarily be the same as the wires. The instructions always clearly sign the connection diagram.

How to lay pipes

Copper pipes are cut with a margin for bends (about a meter margin). When bending the tubes, special tools should be used so that there are no dents, folds, wrinkles, or stretching of the copper.

Further, polyurethane foam hoses are pulled onto these tubes for thermal insulation. Foam rubber is not suitable here, because the life of this sealant is short. Then threaded flanges are put on the tubes so that the thread is located at the end of the tube.

flaring

The flaring of the tubes should be carried out very carefully, the formation of grooves and cracks in the metal should not be allowed. The nut should slide onto the flare without effort. It is desirable to tighten it with a torque wrench, then the flared connection will not be squeezed out of the nut.

Pipelines are attached to the fittings in turn. The fittings cannot be confused, since they have a different diameter. Flanges are screwed onto the fittings. It is necessary to screw so that a tight connection is formed, but you should not pinch it, otherwise the tube will be damaged.

And finally, a piece of plastic pipe with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. It is fastened with a threaded flange (if it is included in the kit) or with a piece of heat-shrinkable pipe. The drain pipe must be taken away from the bearing wall away.

It's time to bring the pipes into the hole and align. From the outside of the wall, the pipes are attached to the wall with clamps, the fastening must be tight (an electric cable runs nearby). The piping is connected to the outdoor unit. Free places in the hole are filled with silicone or polyurethane foam.

Leak test

External connections are checked for tightness in the usual way: a bicycle load and a soap solution are used. If air leakage is detected, the threads will need to be tightened more tightly. Upon completion of the check, the soapy solution is wiped with a rag or napkin.

It's time to pump the refrigerant from the cylinder into the system. An adapter should be connected to the cylinder, then a pressure gauge. After that, the tank is filled. Pressure needs to be monitored.

After this process is completed, the automatic disconnector is turned on on the air conditioner. Next, the system enters the test mode on its own.

It can be expected that the system will work without failures. That is, there will be a uniform circulation of cooled air flows. Then you can close the holes made in the wall, clean up the garbage and enjoy a comfortable microclimate.

Video: Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation:

Installation tips. Where is the best place to install an air conditioner?

Before you buy a split system in Krasnodar, it is advisable to determine the place where you will hang it.

It is technically possible to install an air conditioner in a room absolutely anywhere, however, for its high-quality work, without the risk of failure, there are certain rules and some nuances that must be observed during installation.

In this article, we will try to describe in as much detail as possible the most common mistakes during the installation process, as well as give recommendations on the correct installation of the air conditioner in order to avoid unforeseen problems in the future.

1. Install the indoor unit of the split system at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling. Because the air conditioner takes its cooling/heating air from inside (not outside), the short distance from the ceiling to the top of the ceiling (where the air intake grille is) can make it difficult to recirculate the air. In this case, firstly, the air conditioner will not be able to produce enough cold / heat, and secondly, it will work for wear, which will lead to a quick failure of its compressor. That is why it is forbidden to put various objects on the air conditioner and cover its upper part. If you are installing an air conditioner at the stage of repair, take into account the possible lowering of the ceiling level (stretch ceilings, plaster ceilings, etc.).

2. Do not mount the indoor unit of the split system above cabinets, shelves, chests of drawers if the distance from them to the lower edge of the indoor unit is less than 70-100 cm. Firstly, this causes dust accumulated on the top surface of the cabinet to be blown off every time the air conditioner is turned on. Moreover, the close location of horizontal surfaces leads to the creation of a circulation of the air flow, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the air conditioning system. The flow from the air conditioner is drawn back into the air intake, the air exchange in the room deteriorates, the air conditioner, taking in cold air, begins to "think" that it is time to stop its work, because the temperature sensor is located at the flow inlet.

3. The air flow must not be directed directly at people. When working in the cold, the temperature of the air stream from the air conditioner is 7-15 ° C lower than the ambient air temperature in the room. If such a stream blows on a person for at least a few tens of minutes, poor health is subsequently ensured. As a rule, air is directed so that it passes between workplaces or where people are least likely to be. In the bedroom, you often have to make a choice on which wall in relation to the bed to hang the air conditioner. Most often, people are afraid to place the indoor unit over their heads and mount the unit on the wall to which their feet are facing. If it is not possible to remove the unit from the bed as much as possible and direct the air in the other direction, it is better to mount it overhead. In this case, cold air will not blow on the head, but on the legs, which are usually covered with a blanket.

4. Do not install the air conditioner indoor unit above a heat source (such as a radiator). Due to the flow of warm air rising from the heat source, the air conditioner will think that it is not cooling the room enough, and will work for wear, as a result of which it will quickly fail. In addition, excessive heat may cause the plastic casing of the indoor unit to be deformed.

5. Do not install the air conditioner in a place where air circulation will be difficult (for example, behind curtains, etc.). The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it "came out". The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off.

6. The indoor unit of the split system must be installed strictly according to the level. This is necessary so that the moisture condensed on the heat exchanger can be freely removed to the outside through the drainage system. If the indoor unit is installed with a significant skew (±3-4 mm is allowed), there is a possibility that water will accumulate in the drain pan and periodically flow out of it directly onto your floor.

7. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly operating.(e.g. drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.

8. Try to install the indoor unit so that the length of the refrigerant pipe is as short as possible. Firstly, a long route increases the cost of installation, and secondly, it reduces work efficiency. Moreover, if you decide to lay the track in a box, then a long box through the entire wall greatly spoils the interior.

9. If possible, run a separate power cable to the air conditioner. To any, even a low-power air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and it will ignite. Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment.

1. Do not install the outdoor unit on a glazed balcony or loggia because heat dissipation will be very difficult. Installation is only possible if the windows can be opened wide. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the operating range of outdoor air temperatures. The upper temperature limit for different air conditioners is not the same and ranges from 40 to 46 C.

2. The outdoor unit should not cause inconvenience to your neighbors(noise, dripping condensate).

3. Try to place the outdoor unit in such a way that the sun's rays fall on it as little as possible. The direct rays of the sun can provoke a protective shutdown of the device due to overheating.

4. Locate the outdoor unit in such a way that during operation, the heat removed from the room is freely discharged into the environment.(For example, do not install the outdoor unit where the prevailing wind is directed towards the air conditioner, otherwise the normal operation of the fan will be disturbed).

5. Do not place the outdoor unit in close proximity to the canopy of trees. Leaves and fluff from poplars clog the heat exchanger, moreover, during gusts of wind, branches can get into the equipment, damage the fan or heat exchanger fins. If, nevertheless, your house is all buried in greenery, then you need to cut down some of the branches located next to the air conditioner.

6. It is forbidden to install outdoor units on the ground and in those places where they can be soiled with mud, covered with snow, flooded with rain or sewage. Blocks must be installed on a special stand.

7. It is forbidden to install outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases. In particular, this applies to the air conditioning of the first and second floors, where gas pipes of gasified buildings usually pass.

8. When placing the outdoor unit on the ground floor, install it in a special protective grid. This will prevent theft and acts of vandalism.

9. Take care of the condensate drain. Most often, condensate is discharged to the street. In this case, the flowing water should not fall on the wall of the building. Condensate discharge to the sewer is preferable, but expensive. If you plan to install a block above the sidewalk, then this is the only acceptable option.

10. Do not install the outdoor unit on a weak base, for example, on a wall made of hollow bricks or thin metal. The fragility of the supporting structure almost always causes excessive noise, the elimination of which takes a lot of effort and money. Yes, and the air conditioner can simply fall.

If you need a high-quality installation (installation) of split systems in Krasnodar, the company's specialists will help you with this website

When choosing a place to install an air conditioner, the first thing to consider is that the coolest air will be at a distance of 2-3 meters from the device. Place it in such a way that this area does not include a bed, sofa or other place for sleeping or long rest. In addition, when choosing where to install the air conditioner, it is worth choosing a place remote from all heating appliances. Anything that emits heat or steam is a bad neighbor for an air conditioner, unless of course you want to arrange room tornadoes 🙂. It is also undesirable for pieces of furniture to stand in the way of the air flow, otherwise the operation of the device will not be effective enough.

When choosing how to properly install an air conditioner in a room, the location of the windows is also taken into account. If you have a sunny side, then the flow of cooled air should go perpendicular to the influx of heat from the windows, in which case the temperature will be distributed most evenly. It is also not recommended to place the split system opposite the door to the room so that the cooled air does not go to other rooms.

When installing the air conditioner under the ceiling, you must also take into account the necessary indentation - at least 15 cm from the ceiling, in order to provide space for air movement. Since most split systems do not provide air from the street, but only cool the existing one, for a healthy microclimate, it is better to put the air conditioner in the same room as it will supply fresh air, and the air conditioner will cool it to the desired temperature.

If you decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom, then the best solution is to place it above the bed - in this case, the coldest zone will be outside the bed, and the air during sleep will be at a pleasant temperature.

If we talk about how to properly install the air conditioner in the kitchen, then, in addition to moving away from heat sources, which include the stove, you need to take into account the fact that if the air flow enters other rooms, then the smells from the kitchen will go throughout the apartment . If you have a gas stove, then you should not place the air conditioner opposite it either, since the air from it will blow out the flame. In the kitchen, there is often not enough space to install a split system in accordance with all the rules, in which case you can choose a corner or compact installation, now such options are also available on the market.

Installing an air conditioner is a rather complicated undertaking that requires, if not experience in carrying out such work, then at least a thorough theoretical preparation. In more than half of the cases, air conditioning problems appear due to incorrect installation and errors in the process of connecting the system. Even the most expensive and modern device will not be able to fully realize its potential if it is installed in violation of technology.

The structure of the traditional split system includes an external unit, which is located outside the window, and an internal unit. In some cases, more than 1 block is installed. Such combinations are known as multi-split systems.

Each element of the system performs its functions. So, the outdoor unit is responsible for condensation, while the indoor unit performs the functions of an evaporator. The blocks are connected using a line of tubes and wires. Freon circulates through the tubes. The system also includes a drain tube. It is connected to the outdoor unit. It is responsible for the removal of moisture condensed during the operation of the installation. According to the rules, this tube must be connected to the sewer system.

Air conditioning systems are available for sale for every taste and request. However, in terms of their composition and connection technology, they practically do not differ from each other.

Before proceeding with the installation of blocks, you need to decide on a number of important points.

First, decide on the side of the world to which the capacitor unit will go.
Secondly, you need to establish the material from which the walls of the house are made. In accordance with this moment, suitable fasteners will be selected. Additionally, certain changes in the installation process of the system are made by the weight of the blocks.

It is important to ensure the possibility of normal access to the units for preventive maintenance and repair activities. The outdoor unit must be protected from precipitation, icing and other adverse effects.

When choosing the power of a future split system, take into account the operational and other important characteristics of housing. First of all, consider the orientation of the apartment or house to the cardinal points. Also important is the number of people inhabiting the dwelling, the total power of electrical appliances, the number of heating radiators, the presence of other ventilation systems and devices.

Before proceeding with the installation of the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the strength of the balcony railing or wall is sufficient to support the weight of the product. The most powerful models weigh up to 60 kg and even more. On average, household outdoor units weigh 10-15 kg and usually there are no problems with their placement. The wall and all fasteners used must have a minimum of two times the safety margin.

If there is external insulation, be sure to ensure that the brackets are not attached to the thermal insulation, but directly to the wall material.

Quite often, aerated concrete is used in modern housing construction. This is an excellent material with high thermal insulation properties, however, unfortunately, it cannot boast of great strength. If the external walls of your house are built of aerated concrete, you should refrain from installing the air conditioner directly on the wall.

It is not recommended to hang the unit on a ventilated facade, because during its operation, quite strong vibration and noise can be created. In the situations described, the installation of the unit should be carried out using a special damping seal, previously fixed on the wall. The air conditioner itself rarely produces noise more than 25-30 dB, therefore, in houses with walls made of a material denser than aerated concrete, there are usually no inconveniences.

Any distortions when installing the outdoor unit are unacceptable. At each stage of installation, you need to check the horizontal installation of the product using the building level. Deviations from the horizontal will lead to a violation of the circulation of freon or other refrigerant used.

If possible, the air conditioner should be installed in such a place that it is blown from all sides by the wind, but at the same time it is protected from precipitation and other negative influences. The best option is to place the unit under a pre-installed canopy or at least on a balcony. Residents of the upper floors of apartment buildings can install an outdoor air conditioner unit on the roof. It is only important to ensure that the line has a total length not exceeding 15-20 m. Otherwise, significant cold losses will be noted in the system, and the air conditioner will consume electricity for nothing.

Take care of the proper arrangement of the drain of condensed moisture. Regulations require that this tube be connected to the sewer. However, this requirement is almost never met, and moisture simply drips onto the ground under the window. In such a situation, you need to take care at least that water does not drip on passers-by.

Regulations require that the distance between the outdoor unit and the wall surface is at least 10cm. The problem is that the compressor must be sufficiently blown from all sides. If it is installed closer than 10 cm to the wall, in summer the airflow will be insufficient, which will lead to the breakdown of the unit.

Installing an outdoor unit is associated with a certain danger, because It's still high-rise work. Therefore, installation can be carried out only with the necessary insurance, or it is better to completely entrust it to professional installers.

How to install the indoor unit

Inside the premises, the installation of the corresponding block and the laying of the highway are carried out. Special attention should be paid to the process of arranging electrical wiring. Domestic air conditioners consume about 2 kW of electricity or more. First make sure that the wiring in your apartment or house can withstand such a load. If she is not capable of this, lay an individual line from the shield with a separate fuse. This will protect the wiring from overheating, and your property from fire.

Lay the line from the outdoor unit of the air conditioning system to the location of the indoor unit. The line can be laid outside or inside. For external laying, it is hidden in a plastic box, but in accordance with the internal installation, the line must be recessed into the wall.

Carefully consider the choice of location for placing the indoor unit. The farther the blocks are removed from each other, the less efficient the system will be and the higher the energy losses will be.

The indoor unit must be placed so that there are no objects near it that can interfere with the normal flow of chilled air. Appliances, curtains and other items that are at the same height as the unit must be at least 3 m away from it.

The unit must not be placed directly above a heating radiator. The place of installation must be such that the unit can be easily reached for repair and maintenance work. The distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 20-25 cm. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner above appliances and furniture.

The air conditioner must be installed in such a way that the cold air emitted during its operation does not blow directly onto the person. Otherwise, bronchitis and tonsillitis will not keep you waiting long.

The indoor unit can be wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted. The latter are extremely rare. However, regardless of the type of system, it is necessary to ensure the most correct and reliable fastening. Installation is carried out using brackets and screws. Brackets must be checked for strength.

After connecting the outdoor and indoor units, it is necessary to remove moisture and air from the line. This process is known as evacuation. Special equipment is used to pump out air and water.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner connection sequence

Installation of the air conditioner is carried out in several stages. First, the wiring is laid. Further the external unit of the system is installed. The technology requires that it be placed at a height of at least 180-200 cm from ground level. This requirement is relevant for owners of private houses and residents of apartments located on the ground floor.

In the outer wall holes are drilled for laying communications. The diameter of these holes should be 500-600 mm. Brackets are installed, due to which the unit will be fixed. A special waterproofing cup is inserted into the prepared hole and direct connecting communications are laid.

Next you need install the indoor unit. The maximum allowable distance between these two elements is 20 m. The optimal distance is 7-12 m. Specific recommendations are given in the instructions for the equipment, be sure to study it before starting installation. Install the brackets and fix the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.

In the end, it remains only to lay the wires, due to which the functioning of the system will be ensured. Mount the box. It, as already noted, can be internal or external. Connect electrical wires and pipes for freon. Evacuate the system. For this, special equipment is used. The actual procedure lasts an average of 45-60 minutes.

After vacuuming is completed, perform a trial operation of the air conditioner. Professionals at this stage use special hardware and software equipment. In its absence, at least observe the operation of the system and the state of the power grid for some time.

Basic connection errors and their elimination

Mistakes made during the installation of the air conditioner entail a lot of different troubles. However, the services of professional installers are becoming more expensive every year and an increasing number of people, in an attempt to save money, are trying to install the air conditioner themselves. This, as already noted, is a rather complicated and very responsible work, which has many features and requires taking into account a wide variety of nuances.

One of the most common mistakes is laying pipes with unacceptable and/or repeated kinks. Because of this, the load on the compressor will increase, which will not have the most favorable effect on the operation of the system.
The outdoor unit cannot be installed on a glazed balcony. Previously, recommendations were given for its installation in this room, but they are relevant only for non-glazed balconies. It is important that normal air circulation is maintained, and the unit is blown from all sides.
The air conditioner must not be installed where any kind of installation generating high-frequency electromagnetic vibrations is in operation. Such equipment includes various welding machines, machine tools, etc.
It is important to maintain the maximum evenness of the installation of blocks. If this rule is violated, the resulting condensate will simply drain to the floor, which will cause a lot of inconvenience. As already noted, the air conditioner cannot be installed directly above the radiators.

If these and any other errors were made and led to undesirable consequences, it is necessary to take appropriate measures to eliminate the violations. In the event of a draft from the air conditioner, it is usually sufficient to change the direction of the air flow by adjusting the dampers.

When the system is turned on in heating mode, frost is often found on the outdoor unit. The reason for this phenomenon is usually that the system does not have an automatic defrost function. To remove ice, it is enough to turn on the equipment for cooling for a while. The air conditioner will heat up and the ice will disappear.

If the air conditioner has stopped cooling normally, it is necessary to check the filters. They require regular cleaning. Detailed recommendations on this matter are usually given in the instructions.

If water starts to drip from the indoor unit, the cause of this problem in most cases is a severe blockage of the drain channel. It also leads to the formation of ice plugs. It is impossible to eliminate this kind of blockage on your own without the necessary skills. It is recommended to urgently call a wizard who can properly warm up the system and correct the situation.

Uncharacteristic noises during system operation usually indicate a fan imbalance or severe bearing wear. This problem can also be handled exclusively by a qualified master.

If you find that the air conditioner has begun to overheat, you should call the wizard to check the level of freon and the tightness of the system.

Thus, self-installation and connection of the air conditioner is a completely feasible job. But you need to tune in in advance to the fact that this event is not easy. Follow the instructions in everything and promptly eliminate emerging troubles. Then the air conditioner will serve as long as possible, fully performing all the tasks assigned to it.

Successful work!

Self-installation of air conditioning. Mounting Tips