Do-it-yourself removable formwork for the foundation: how to do it? Features of removable formwork for the foundation and how to make it yourself Do-it-yourself formwork at home what solution.

The formwork around the foundation of the house (blind area) is a decorative coating that protects the object from the damaging effects of moisture and low temperatures. It is installed at the final stages of construction after the completion of exterior finishing work. The choice of material and arrangement scheme depends on the characteristics of the soil, the type of structure and climatic conditions.

Tasks

Having decided to fill the formwork around the house, you solve several problems at once:

additionally protect the object from moisture;
improve the decorative properties of the building;
reinforce the thermal insulation of the foundation;
prevent swelling of the soil.

The presence of a blind area eliminates the long contact of melt and rainwater with the foundation. If the formwork for the house was installed in accordance with the technology, excess moisture will immediately enter the sewer. An additional coating also contributes to the improvement of the thermal insulation of the foundation. Among other things, this saves energy spent on heating. A well-installed blind area blocks the supply of oxygen, thereby preventing the vital activity of plants whose root system can destroy the structure.

materials

The question of how to properly form formwork around the house has many answers. The classic scheme provides for laying in two layers - litter and the main cover. For the formation of the first, sand and crushed stone or fine gravel are used. The main coating is made of paving stones, concrete, paving slabs or asphalt. Can be stacked and more than two layers. Sometimes, before starting work, the earth is additionally treated with chemicals in order to destroy all vegetation for sure.

The coating of natural or decorative paving stones looks the most picturesque. Such a blind area withstands temperature extremes well. Rounded elements with a width of 5-20 cm, a length of 10-30 cm and a thickness of 6 cm are considered optimal for laying. Pouring with concrete mixture is the most inexpensive way. Full tightness of the structure is ensured. Such formwork around the house is made of concrete class B15 and above. The recommended thickness is 10 cm for each layer. The advantages of paving slabs are simple installation and the ability to quickly replace damaged elements. Asphalt pouring is not used very often, so we will not dwell on it.

Process

Before thinking about how to fill the formwork around the house, you need to prepare the ground. If there are plants on the surface, they should be removed (possible with the use of chemicals). Having carefully tamped the ground, they dig trenches and lay out the litter - drainage. The thickness of this layer is determined by the amount of sand used to form the "cushion" and the finish coat. For example, the depth of the trench is 25 cm, of which 10 cm is allocated to sand and 7 cm to paving slabs. By simple arithmetic calculations, we determine that the thickness of the drainage will be 8 cm.

Before you make formwork around the house, you need to calculate parameters such as:

slope (minimum 2%);
a gap between the walls and the blind area (1-2 cm, which can be filled with sand or polystyrene foam);
plinth height (from 30 to 50 cm);
indent from the edge of the roof canopy to redirect rain flows (from 60 cm).

When it comes to heaving soil, the formwork around the house should be filled with insulation. To do this, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or other suitable material are laid on the drainage.

Work order

Consider how to properly fill the formwork around the house, using the example of a concrete blind area. Having done all the preparatory ground work, install the formwork structure. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and carefully tamp, watering a little with water. Further, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is laid, reinforcement is carried out. For prevention, the metal mesh should be fixed with clamps (wooden or plastic), placing them every 1.0–1.5 m in a checkerboard pattern.

The assembled formwork of the house is poured with concrete mixture, the surface is carefully smoothed out with a suitable tool. After the concrete has set a little, it is recommended to sprinkle the coating with dry cement. This is the classic and simplest technology, but it has a certain disadvantage. Over time, concrete can begin to crack.

If you are interested in how to make formwork for the house, saving yourself further trouble, use the following diagram. Cover the bottom of the trench with clay and install roll waterproofing on it, fixing it with wooden planks. Pour sand, gravel on top and lay paving slabs. This design is more practical and looks great. If you do not have the desire and time to figure out how to make formwork for the blind area, contact the professionals. The specialists of our company in Moscow will do everything quickly and with the highest quality.

Around any building, or rather along its perimeter, a blind area is necessarily arranged. This coating protects the building from the damaging effects of melt and sedimentary water, which can wash away the soil under the base of the house and lead to its subsidence, as well as destroy the foundation structures. This important protective element around the house is made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In order to complete the blind area, you need to build a formwork. At first glance, this is not difficult to do, but there are some nuances that must be observed so that the blind area has the correct slope from the walls of the building. In our article we will tell you how to make formwork around the house.

Features and functions of the blind area

Outwardly, the blind area looks like an ordinary concrete or asphalt path, which tightly adjoins the walls of the building and surrounds it around the perimeter. The width of this coating is normalized by SNiP and can be at least 1 m. At the same time, it is worth remembering that the outer edge of the blind area should protrude beyond the boundaries of the roof overhang by at least 200-300 mm.

Important: the installation of this protective coating is carried out after finishing facade work has been done on the house.

The blind area performs several functions at once:

During snowmelt or rainfall, precipitation can soak into the ground near the house and cause the destruction of foundation structures or flooding of the basement. Much more precipitation collects around the house, as it actively drains from the roof of the building and its walls.
Due to the blind area, the soil around the building does not freeze to such a great depth as in places of open soil. Thanks to this, the basement or basement becomes warmer, which affects the temperature throughout the house.
In addition, frozen soil can also adversely affect foundation structures. This path near the building protects building structures from the forces of frost heaving, which can lead to movement of the base and cracking of the walls of the building.
The presence of a neat blind area around the house increases its aesthetic qualities.

The following materials can be used to make this coating:

Concrete is the most commonly used because it is the most affordable material that you can prepare yourself. For pouring concrete, you need to properly equip the formwork. That is why in our article we will consider the subtleties of this process.
You can also make a blind area from paving slabs.
Around large public, multi-apartment residential buildings and shopping centers, the blind area is made of asphalt.

Rules for the execution of formwork and blind areas

Before you get to work and start making formwork near the house with your own hands, you should remember a few simple rules that will allow you to do everything at the highest level:

If the work will be carried out in hot weather, then the surface of the formwork and concrete (after pouring it) must be periodically moistened with water. Due to this, dried wood will not absorb moisture from concrete, thereby reducing its strength. Wetting and covering the concrete cover in the first few days after pouring will avoid too rapid and uneven evaporation of moisture, which can lead to cracking of the surface.
In order to correctly determine the width of the blind area, the slope, the depth of its laying and design, it is important to take into account the geological and climatic features of the construction site. By following this rule, you will make a high-quality and durable blind area.
The arrangement of this coating around the building is best done before the onset of cold weather.
This protective concrete product should encircle the entire house with a continuous strip. That is, the coating should not have gaps and areas of unprotected soil. Otherwise, through such uncoated gaps, water will easily seep into the ground and cause the destruction of the foundation structures.
A deformation seam is necessarily made between the blind area and the basement of the house, since these structural parts cannot be connected to each other. The width of the temperature gap is 2 cm. The seam must be closed with a sealant so that water does not seep into it.
When making formwork, it is worth making sure that there are no significant gaps in its structure through which uncured concrete mixture can flow.
The slope of the coating must be at least 10 ppm from the walls of the house, that is, 1 cm of slope per meter of width.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of formwork, you can use different materials, which are selected depending on the complexity of the design and its purpose:

unedged or edged board;
shield formwork can be made of chipboard (chipboard);
moisture-resistant plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) is also suitable for these purposes;
some types of formwork that take heavy loads are made of steel and aluminum alloys;
fixed formwork is made of expanded polystyrene reinforced with fiber additives.

To perform the formwork of the blind area, an unedged board or plywood sawn in strips is suitable. Since the poured concrete can slightly expand the formwork structures, bars with a section of 30x30 are used as supports and a supporting frame, from which a solid structure is made.

Important: for the manufacture of a protective coating around the house, a removable formwork is usually used, which is dismantled after the concrete has hardened.

It is equally important to correctly determine the material for the manufacture of the blind area. The coating can be made of rammed gravel, but in this case it is necessary to equip a good drain from the roof so that the flowing precipitation does not erode the fragile gravel coating.

A little better and more durable than crushed stone coatings will be a cement mortar pavement laid on top of rammed gravel. This option provides better protection of the base of the house from destruction by melt and sedimentary waters. And it is this option for arranging the blind area that provides for the execution of formwork.

A more expensive and high-quality version of the blind area is the laying of monolithic concrete slabs or reinforced slab products. But such materials cannot be used on heaving and clayey soils, as well as at high groundwater levels, since the structure can quickly deform.

In the case of a concrete blind area, you will need the following tools and materials for work:

crushed stone, sand and cement;
polyurethane sealant for insulation of expansion joints between the coating and the house;
reinforcing mesh;
nails, screws;
roofing felt or polyethylene film;
edged (unedged) boards or strips of plywood along the height of the poured coating;
level, rule;
spatula, bayonet shovel;
container for mixing concrete.

Formwork technology

After you decide on the material for the blind area, calculate its width and the required slope, you can get to work:

First of all, it is necessary to mark the future coverage around the house. To do this, the estimated distance recedes from the walls, pegs are hammered in the corners and a fishing line or cord is pulled.
After that, within the markings along the perimeter of the building, a fertile layer of soil 20 cm thick is removed. The soil at the bottom of the resulting recess is carefully leveled and rammed.
Now proceed to the assembly of the formwork. First, a frame is made from a bar. To do this, at the corners of the recess in the soil, bars are fixed with a height slightly higher than the thickness of the coating being performed. Further along the stretched fishing line, the same bars are installed in increments of 50-100 cm. For greater rigidity, the bars are fastened together with longitudinal bars. Wooden elements are connected with nails or self-tapping screws.
After that, we attach an unedged or edged board to the timber frame so that the timber is on the outside of the structure, that is, there is a continuous flat surface of the boards from the concrete pouring side. We fasten the boards to the frame with nails.

Attention: so that concrete cannot seep between the boards, the gaps between adjacent elements should not be more than 0.3 cm.

So that after pouring concrete, the formwork structure does not burst and deform, oblique struts are attached to the frame from the outside. The installation step of such spacers is 50 cm. We fasten the spacers to the frame bars using self-tapping screws or nails.
To make it easier to remove the formwork after pouring and hardening of concrete, its inner surface can be covered with a dense plastic film or one layer of roofing material. This material will perform other additional functions:
- will not allow moisture from concrete to be absorbed into the formwork boards, thereby reducing the strength of the concrete coating;
- if there are significant gaps between the formwork boards (especially if unedged boards are used), the coating will prevent concrete from flowing into the gaps.

Along the walls of the house, it is necessary to install an edged board 2 cm thick and slightly higher than the height of the coating in this place. It is not necessary to firmly fix the board, because after the concrete hardens, it will be removed. With the help of this board, we will create the necessary temperature gap between the coating and the walls of the house.

Covering

After the formwork is assembled, you can start making concrete pavement around the house. In this case, the following sequence of actions is followed:

First, a sand cushion 10 cm high is made. The sand layer is leveled, wetted with water and rammed.
After that, a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm high is made. It is also carefully rammed. At the same time, one should not forget about the necessary slope of the blind area from the walls of the building, therefore, already at the stage of performing the crushed stone cushion, you can take care of creating a slope.
A reinforcing mesh is laid over the rubble.
Now you can start pouring the concrete solution. You can use a factory mix or make your own.

Important: in order for the coating to have a sufficiently high strength and not crack over time, concrete must be poured at a time, without long interruptions in work.

The mortar to be poured must be thick enough so that it can be laid in a thicker layer against the walls of the house, thereby creating the necessary slope. The correctness of the filling is checked using a level. The surface is leveled by the rule.
In the process of hardening in the first days, the concrete surface is wetted with water and covered with a plastic film.
After removing the formwork and removing the board, which is laid along the walls of the house, the formed temperature gap is filled with polyurethane sealant.

A house starts with a foundation. It is not difficult to make it with your own hands, experts say and give their advice on the step-by-step installation of formwork - a key element of the future foundation of the house. The article, as well as photos and videos, will help to understand the recommendations.

How to choose formwork

In order for the concrete support of the building to become strong and monolithic, the builders came up with formwork.

It can be temporary or permanent, made of wood or polymers, but its main tasks remain the same:

create and maintain the shape of the above-ground part of the concrete strip foundation;
be as smooth as possible from the inside in order to minimize subsequent finishing work on the ground part of the structure;
cope with the loads when pouring and compacting the concrete solution;
quickly mounted and disassembled;
if necessary, isolate the concrete from the ground and other negative factors.

To ensure that the installation goes smoothly and you do not have to deal with unexpected problems, before starting work, you need to make sure that five main conditions are met:

The soil on which the base is poured must be completely cleaned of debris and various impurities.
Boards on the inside should have as flat and clean a surface as possible in order to reduce finishing work.
The formwork fastening must withstand the pressure of concrete and not be deformed.
Maximum contact of the components of the shield is necessary to prevent leakage. For this, the clarity of the geometry of the edges of the structure is important.
If the formwork panels are reused, the entire working surface must be cleaned from the residues of the previous mortar.

Attention! Modern formwork is classified into two categories: removable and fixed. In addition, it differs in the type of material used: wood, plywood, metal, polystyrene foam, etc.

Removable formwork: time-tested installation

Mount, pour, withstand and remove - this is a short recipe for installing removable formwork. Its most popular variety - wooden - is as old as the concrete foundation. It is easy to make such a formwork. Shields are made outside the construction pit from boards and lumber of the required dimensions. The boards are edged, as it will be necessary to fit them tightly to each other.

Attention! Slots up to 3 mm in timber formwork are considered the norm. As a result of pre-wetting, the boards will swell and the distance will decrease. If the gaps are larger, up to 10 mm, they must be closed with tow, and very large ones should be hammered with slats.

The structure is fastened with the help of vertical racks (most often from a bar). It is recommended to place them at intervals of about 1 m. The bars can be placed more often if the boards are thin. In addition, it is important that the length allows them to hold tight.

It is better to sharpen the bars from one end, then they will easily enter the ground. To fix the formwork panels at the same distance, twists of wire, struts, frames, wooden ties are taken.

Advice. Instead of nails during installation, it is better to use self-tapping screws. The structure assembled on them is easier to disassemble, because it will be enough just to unscrew them, and not unbend them, as is the case with nails. It is necessary to knock down the boards so that the heads of the nails (self-tapping screws) are on the inside of the formwork.

The final step in the installation of wooden formwork is to secure the panels in the trench with spacers: wooden stakes or bars. After pouring and tamping, the concrete is kept in the formwork for up to two weeks, until it hardens and gains strength. After the structure is dismantled. Plywood formwork is installed according to a similar principle.

Attention! It is desirable to isolate the removable formwork from concrete with special compounds against the adhesion of materials.

Fixed formwork for the foundation: a new word in construction

In recent years, the removable structure has been replaced by a structure using polymer formwork, which, after pouring concrete, becomes part of the future foundation. It gives it additional properties, protecting it from water and retaining heat. Additional properties of fixed formwork made of such material: ease of assembly (somewhat reminiscent of a designer or a puzzle) and, as a result, the geometric harmony of parts. Certain types of polymer formwork have a reinforcing mesh that reinforces the foundation.

Of the minuses - the cost of such a foundation is higher than that built using boards. However, the game is worth the candle when it comes to what is being built for decades and for oneself. Fixed formwork can also be made from a galvanized profile sheet - in the finished foundation it will protect the concrete surface, and its waves will serve as stiffeners. To such a metal structure, a removable "belt" of stakes from a bar is additionally required.

Foundation formwork: video

Do-it-yourself foundation: photo

The technology of building a private house is complex and consists of a number of separate works. Often the most important of them is not given due attention, which can lead to significant financial losses and anxiety for residents. We are talking about the manufacture of the blind area of the foundation, which is often called the formwork of the house.

The purpose of the blind area and its main parameters

Properly made do-it-yourself formwork at home is designed to solve a number of problems, the main of which are the following:

Protection of the basement of the walls of the house from waterlogging by limiting the amount of water penetrating from the surface of the soil;
Protection of the foundation of the house from waterlogging;
Creating a walkway around the perimeter of the building.

Based on the above, fairly strict requirements are imposed on the parameters of the blind area. Its width should reliably block the flow of rainwater from the roof of the house. To do this, the width of the formwork of the house is chosen 300 mm more than the projection of the edge of the roof beyond the plane of the walls. When planning to use the blind area as a footpath, the distance from the walls to the edge is chosen within 800-1000 mm.

Requirements for blind area parameters

A mandatory element is a small, within 3-7 about the slope of the formwork in the direction from the wall of the house to the outside. This is necessary to ensure the outflow of fluid. For its more complete removal along the edge of the formwork, it is recommended to install a rainwater drainage system, since to make the formwork around the house correctly means to provide for all the conditions for its operation.

The depth to which it is recommended to lay the formwork cake should not be less than 250-300 mm. Only in this case it will be possible to manufacture a concrete tape of sufficient strength, reliably preventing the penetration of moisture to the foundation and basement of the house.

Do-it-yourself formwork installation technology step by step

Manufacturing technology of the blind area at home

In the process of self-manufacturing formwork at home, there are several main points that you should pay special attention to. We will tell you more about them in the attached detailed instructions for performing this type of work.

The first stage - markup

In the absence of formwork for any reason, it must be made as quickly as possible, without waiting for the irreversible destruction of the foundation of the house to begin. We start with the layout of the tape. To do this, it is necessary to check with the design value of the roof overhang beyond the plane of the walls. If it was not possible to find this value in the drawings, we determine it in a practical way, since it will not work correctly to make the formwork around the house without this.

To do this, from the edge of the roof, for example, through the attic window, lower with your own hands a strong thread with a weight attached to its end. After the oscillation of the plumb line stops, all that remains is to retreat outward from it the necessary 300 mm. Having measured the total distance from the walls of the house to the obtained point, we obtain the desired width of the blind area.

Along the perimeter of the house, retreating to the required distance, we mark the formwork of the house. To do this, we drive in wooden pegs or pieces of steel reinforcement 250-300 mm long in the corners and tie them with a strong nylon cord. If the walls of the house have a complex shape, this must also be reflected in the territorial layout of the formwork.

Stage two - ground work

For further work, it is necessary to prepare a pit inside the marking with a depth of about 300 mm. To do this, with the help of a bayonet shovel, the soil is cut and removed, folding it around the perimeter of the working area or distributing it over the territory of the site.

Preparatory earthworks

Doing this type of work with your own hands alone is quite difficult. It is better to invite a few assistants or you will have to spend on hard physical labor from a few days to a couple of weeks, depending on the availability of free time.

After the trench of the required size is ready, its bottom must be carefully leveled while maintaining the required slope from the walls of the house to the outside and compacted manually using the simplest devices or a vibrating plate.

Stage three - installation of blind area formwork and backfilling

Along the edge of the finished recess, it is necessary to install a restrictive formwork from coniferous boards installed on the edge with a thickness of 25 mm. Their width should be 3-5 cm more than the depth of the trench. For stability, the boards are fastened with spacers and slopes to the outer part of the soil around the house. Similar boards are installed across the future blind area in increments of about 1 meter. They will act as expansion joints when the formwork is poured with their own hands.

Installation of formwork and backfilling of the bottom of the blind area

Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the bottom of the trench and a layer of clean sand about 5 cm thick is poured. Then it must be moistened by sprinkling with a simple watering can or from a watering hose. Wet sand is rammed to increase its density. The second layer of backfill consists of crushed stone of the middle fraction, which is also rammed dry, without pre-moistening. Between the layers, we recommend laying a layer of geotextiles to prevent their mixing and grass germination, since it is necessary to make the formwork around the house with the highest quality.

Stage four - installation of the reinforcing frame

In order for the pouring of concrete into the formwork with your own hands in accordance with all the rules, it is necessary to make and lay a reinforcing frame in the trench. It is a mesh of wire or rods 6-8 mm thick. In hardware stores you can buy ready-made parts of a standard size.

Otherwise, the reinforcing frame can be made independently. To do this, you need to purchase several tens of meters of steel wire and cut a sufficient number of pieces along the width of the formwork. Similarly, we cut the segments according to the distance between the boards installed transversely. Through an equal distance, we connect the rods together with a steel knitting wire.

It is advisable to lay the reinforcing mesh not directly on the crushed stone layer, but to raise it a few centimeters. Pieces of bricks used as linings can help with this.

Fifth stage - concrete production and formwork pouring

The main material used for mounting the formwork at home with your own hands is a concrete mixture. You can cook it yourself with the help of a simple electric concrete mixer. In the absence of this device, it can be rented for a small fee.

The second option for obtaining concrete in the required quantity is to purchase it at the nearest concrete plant. You can calculate the required volume based on the geometric parameters of the tape and the simplest mathematical formulas by multiplying the width of the blind area by the perimeter of the house and the depth of pouring concrete.

The mixture obtained in one way or another is distributed at the site of the future formwork of the house with their own hands, pouring it in buckets or directly from the automixer. The main task at the same time is to provide the concrete surface with the required slope from the walls of the house, since it is necessary to properly slope the foundation at an angle of 3-7 o. For this, a building rule or a plaster trowel is used.

The do-it-yourself blind area is left for several days until the concrete is completely solidified and cured. During this period, it is advisable to cover the tape with a dense cloth, avoiding excessive drying, it is recommended to moisten it, especially on hot summer days.

The final stage - finishing the formwork of the house

Having completed the pouring of concrete, it is necessary to lay one or another type of coating on the tape, since it is necessary to make the formwork around the house not only correctly, but also beautifully. The following types of materials are used for finishing the blind area:

Various finishes of the blind area at home

Asphalt;
Paving slabs;
Natural stone.

It is necessary to lay the selected coating on a cement mortar or special building moisture-resistant adhesives. In this case, the formwork of the house will not only qualitatively divert water from the walls and foundation, but will also become an ornament to your house.

To prevent this from happening, a blind area was invented, located along the perimeter of the building. It is not very difficult to build such a structure, but there are some nuances that deserve attention. In this article, you will learn how to properly build formwork around the house with your own hands.

The main functions of the blind area

In appearance, it resembles an asphalt or tiled path adjacent to the building. According to the standards in SNiP, the width of the coating must be at least 1 meter, and part of the blind area must protrude beyond the boundaries of the roof by 200-300 mm.

Important! Installation of a covering is made after all finishing front works.

This design performs the following tasks:

Prevents soil freezing. Due to the thick layer, the formwork creates additional thermal insulation, which favorably affects the temperature in the basement and the basement of the building.
Protects against water penetration under the foundation. Such a structure well resists natural precipitation, does not allow the base to collapse and flood the lower floors.
Improves the presentable appearance of the house. In addition to the main purpose, the blind area can serve as a footpath, the average width of which is 80-100 cm, and a decorative element of the building.

Types of blind area

Before erecting a structure, you first need to figure out what kind of house formwork coatings exist. These include:

Stone. Suitable for those cases when the house needs to be given an aesthetic look. The construction process is simple: paving stones or stone are laid on a layer of crushed stone or gravel, poured with concrete.
Tiled. This type is very popular among the population. A layer of sand is laid on a pre-made base, and then paving slabs. Thanks to a wide variety of modern materials, you can make a rather original look.
Asphalt. It is mainly used for multi-apartment or public buildings. Its base consists of clay, which is covered with rubble from above and compacted. Then the asphalt is laid. The outer part is lined with a curb stone.
Concrete. This option is characterized by ease of implementation and a small amount of material required, which increases demand. Clay, crushed stone, sand are laid on the prepared surface, after which this layer is poured with concrete of the required thickness.

Necessary materials

In order for the formwork around the house to be made according to all standards, you will need the following materials:

Cement.
Rubble.
Sand.
Edged board 25-50 mm thick.
Fittings.
knitting wire.
Polyurethane sealant for sealing seams.
Bayonet shovel.
Master OK.
Rule.
Building level.
Container for preparing the solution.
Technical water.

After the selection of the necessary materials is made, the width and slope are calculated, you can proceed to construction. The installation sequence is described below:

Markup. From the edge of the roof we hang a plumb line on a thread. After that, 300 mm are added to the formed point to determine the width of the coating. At the corners of the house, pegs are placed and girdled with fishing line.
Ground works. With the help of a bayonet shovel, the top layer of soil is cut off. The depth of the trench should be 25-30 cm. The bottom is compacted with improvised means or a vibrating plate.
Formwork installation. Along the edges of the recess, restrictive boards are assembled from boards, which should protrude from the ground by 3-5 cm. For stability, spacers are installed around the entire perimeter of the building. After that, boards are placed across the blind area in increments of 1 meter. They will serve as expansion joints when pouring concrete into the formwork foundation.
Backfill. A layer of clean sand equal to 5 cm is laid at the bottom of the trench. To increase the density, it is wetted with water and rammed. The second layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction, it is recommended to lay geotextiles between the layers so that there is no mixing of materials and grass germination.
Installation of a reinforcing frame. For this purpose, fittings with a thickness of 6-8 mm are suitable. Bars 1 meter long are cut (an interval equal to one span). The width is taken from the distance from the wall to the outer edge of the blind area. Its parts are fastened together with knitting wire to form a mesh. The design will turn out to be of higher quality if the frame is raised a few centimeters. To do this, pieces of bricks are laid between the rubble and the grid.
Fill. Multiplying the width of the blind area by the perimeter of the building and the depth of pouring, we get the required amount of concrete. We fill the resulting mixture with the space we need with a slope of 5-10 percent. The finished surface is leveled by the rule.
Elimination of seams. After the concrete has dried, the wooden formwork should be dismantled, and the transverse seams should be filled with sealant.
Finishing. The final stage consists of covering the formwork with paving slabs, asphalt or decorative stone.

Important! To prevent the concrete from cracking over time, the formwork must be poured at a time, avoiding long downtime in work.

A 2 cm wide expansion joint must be made between the formwork and the plinth. After the formwork has been removed, it should be filled with sealant to prevent water from entering.
In particularly hot weather, the concrete screed must be periodically moistened with water. This is done in order to prevent cracking due to the rapid evaporation of moisture. Thanks to this procedure, the concrete becomes much stronger.
The arrangement of the blind area is recommended to be carried out before the onset of cold weather.

By following all the construction technology, you will achieve a high-quality result, and the foundation of your house will be reliably protected from natural destruction!