Wool fabric: varieties, how to care. Types and characteristics of woolen fabrics What is made from woolen fabric

1. Morphological structure of wool fiber. The wool consists of a shaft, a root and a bulb.
Kernel- the keratinized part of the wool fiber located above the surface of the skin. Wool as a raw material consists of rods cut close to the skin.
Root- the living part of the hair, located in the thickness of the skin and adjacent to the shaft on one side and to the bulb on the other.
Bulb- the lower part of the hair root, located deep in the root sheath on the papilla that feeds it. In the bulb, due to cell proliferation, wool fiber grows.
2. Histological structure of wool fiber. Wool fibers of all types consist of scaly and cortical layers, and in the transitional, covering dead hair and spine there is also a core layer.
Scaly layer(cuticle), forming the outer surface of the fiber, protects it from the effects of mechanical, chemical and biological environmental factors, affects the shine and feltability of wool.
The scaly layer consists of many flat, corrugated, irregularly shaped horny scales, overlapping one another. The location of the scales can be:
- ring-shaped, in which each scale forms a complete ring around the hair. This shape is typical for down;
- ring-network when the scales on the surface of the fiber are arranged in the form of a mesh and placed in rows, which is typical for semi-fine wool;
- reticulate- scales form an irregularly shaped mesh on the surface of the fiber; The guard fibers have this arrangement of scales.
There are 10-12 scales per 100 microns of length of merino fiber, 6-7 scales of cashmere goat down.
The scaly layer makes up 2-3% of the mass of sheep wool fiber.
Cortical layer is located directly under the scaly one and makes up the bulk of the fiber. It consists of spindle-shaped polyhedral cells. The cells of the cortex contain granules of the melanin pigment.
The cortical layer contains the main amount of sulfur. This layer determines the main properties of wool: strength, elongation, elasticity, etc.
In downy fibers the proportion of the cortical layer reaches 90%, in the spine - 60-70, and in dead hair - only 5-6%.
Core layer- this is a cavity inside the fiber filled with dried cells and air. The presence of a core reduces the strength of the fiber, but increases its heat-shielding properties. Down has no core.
3. Types of wool fibers. Based on their appearance and technical properties, the following types of fibers are distinguished.
Down, or undercoat, is the thinnest and most crimped wool fiber: most of them range from 15 to 30 microns in thickness. The wool of fine-wool sheep consists entirely of down fibers. In coarse-wool and wild sheep, downy fibers form the lower, shorter layer of wool, invisible from the outside, called undercoat.
In terms of technical properties, down is one of the most valuable fibers.
Ost- slightly crimped, sometimes almost straight, thick, coarse fibers, as a rule, longer than down, and therefore form the upper visible tier of the coat. Guard fibers are an indispensable component of the wool of coarse and semi-coarse wool sheep.
In terms of technical properties, awn is much worse than down. Its technical merit increases as the fiber thickness decreases, which ranges from 30 to 120 microns.
Transitional or intermediate hair is a cross between awn and down. Transitional hair mixed with awn and down is part of the wool of coarse-wool sheep. The wool of semi-fine fleece sheep consists almost entirely of it (or mixed with down).
In terms of technical properties, transitional hair is much better than awn hair, and the smaller its fineness, the closer it is to fluff in terms of technical properties.
Dead hair- very coarse and brittle guard fiber. Unlike all other types of wool fibers, it breaks when bent and quickly breaks when stretched. In woolen products it quickly deteriorates and does not stain when dyed.
There is no dead hair in the wool of fine-fleece sheep, and it is rarely found in semi-fine-fleece wool.
Any wool containing dead hair is classified by the wool processing industry as inferior grade.
Dry hair- coarse spine, characterized by high rigidity of the outer ends of the fibers. It differs from the usual awn in less shine and some fragility. Found in the wool of most coarse-wool sheep.
Covering hair- straight, very hard, with a strong shine. In thickness and structure it is close to the spine. Due to the inclined location of the roots in the skin, the covering hairs form a smooth covering on its surface, in which one hair lies on top of the other and covers it. This arrangement of the covering hairs makes it impossible to cut them. This hair grows on the limbs, head, and occasionally on the tail.
Based on the composition of the fibers that form it, wool is divided into two groups - homogeneous and heterogeneous.
Homogeneous wool consists of fibers that are identical in appearance, length, fineness and other properties.
The following types are classified as uniform wool:
- thin, uniform wool, the average fiber fineness of which does not exceed 25 microns;
- semi-fine, uniform wool with a fineness of 25.1-31.0 microns;
- semi-coarse uniform wool with a fineness of wool fibers of 31.1-40.0 microns;
- coarse, uniform wool, consisting of a thin spine without a core, with a fineness in the range of 40.1-67.0 microns, characteristic of English longhaired breeds.
Helter-skelter wool is a mixture of hair, transition fibers and fluff. This wool is divided into semi-coarse and coarse, which consist of the named types of fibers. The difference is that semi-coarse wool contains more grease, while coarse wool often contains dry and dead hair.
4. Fineness of wool. The most important property of wool as a raw material for industry is its fineness (thickness). The fineness of wool is judged by the cross-sectional dimensions of the wool fiber, expressed in micrometers (1 µm = 10v-6m).
It should be noted that there is a very large amplitude of fluctuations in the diameter of sheep wool fibers. Among the thinnest fibers of merino wool, there are individual specimens with a cross-section of 5 microns, while the thickest fibers can often have a diameter of more than 160 microns, for example, in dead hair up to 240 microns.
The finest fluff known to date was obtained from wild mouflon sheep and Kashmir goats (8-12 microns), and the coarsest hair in the mouflon coat reached a diameter of 258 microns.
Different types of sheep wool fibers have different finenesses (Table 42).

Due to the existence of the above-mentioned types of wool fibers, their quantitative ratio in wool fleeces of varying degrees of homogeneity can vary quite significantly. Table 43 shows the data on the proportional distribution by fiber fineness of heterogeneous crossbred wool of the 1st grade.
The table data shows that heterogeneous wool mainly consists of downy and transitional fibers (91.2%). At the same time, it also contains guard fibers of varying thickness, up to 176 microns.
The distribution curve of fibers in heterogeneous coarse wool according to their fineness is presented more clearly in Figure 34.

The figure clearly shows that the peak of the curve, which represents the zone of down fibers with a fineness of 7.5-30.0 μm, is shifted to the extreme left position. The right part of the curve, smoothly descending, extends up to a value of 210 µm.
At the same time, the typical distribution curve of fibers of homogeneous fine wool of 64 quality according to fineness has a rather different appearance, approaching in shape to the normal distribution due to the decrease in its right branch.

The figure shows that the bulk of uniform wool fibers is located in a very narrow zone between 15.0 and 35.0 microns, accounting for more than 80 percent of all fibers. The entire spectrum of all classes of fineness of uniform wool 64 quality occupies only about 25% of the entire spectrum of classes of heterogeneous wool. This indicates that even uniform wool is not completely equal in fineness. As for solid fleece, even the best fine-fleeced sheep breeds produce fleece, in different parts of which the wool is always of different fineness, and the classification of fleeces as equalized or unequalized is conditional. Wool of unequal fineness grows on different parts of the sheep's body (Fig. 35, Table 44).

In queens, the average fineness of the wool of all zones of the fleece is somewhat less, but the range of its fluctuations in all zones, that is, the unevenness of the wool, is significantly greater than that of rams - from 12.4 to 46.5 microns.
The fineness of wool is most often characterized by the arithmetic average of the diameters of the fibers in micrometers or assessed in conventional indicators - fineness classes, called qualities, which are designated by two-digit numbers. Each number corresponds to a certain wool fineness in micrometers. The essence of this classification, called Bradford, is as follows. Yarn is prepared from washed combed wool (tops) and divided into skeins of 512 m each. The number of skeins of yarn that can be obtained from 1 English pound (453.6 g) of wool is called quality. The finer the wool, the more skeins of yarn you will get and the higher the numerical designation of the class of fineness, i.e. quality, and vice versa.

Table 45 presents the classification of uniform wool by fineness adopted in Russia. It should be noted that wool as an array of individual wool fibers (fleece) with an average fineness of 90 quality (11.2-14.4 microns) and 28 quality (67.1-125.0 microns) exists only theoretically, since recently It does not occur in practice in Russia. At the same time, individual very thin fibers up to 7.5 microns in diameter can be found in the staple of both homogeneous and heterogeneous wool.

5. Wool crimp. The crimp of wool is quite closely related to fineness - its ability to form curls.
The shape and degree of tortuosity are distinguished.
The shape of the fiber crimp is determined by the ratio of the length of the base of the curl arc and the height of the arc. The following forms of tortuosity are distinguished: 1) smooth, 2) stretched, 3) flat, 4) normal, 5) compressed, 6) high, 7) looped.
Increased crimp, especially loop crimp, complicates the process of carding wool, leads to fiber breakage and reduces yarn yield.
The degree of crimp of wool fibers is characterized by the number of curls per 1 cm of their length. Fibers of fine merino wool have 7-12 curls per 1 cm of length, semi-fine wool - 2-5, guard fibers - 1, dead hair is curled even less. The covering hair has no crimp. It can be seen that the finer the wool, the stronger its crimp. The elasticity of the fabric, its rolling capacity and elasticity depend on the crimp of the fibers.

Table 46 shows the relationship between fineness and crimp of Australian Merino and crossbred wool.
6. Wool fiber length. This is the second most important physical and mechanical property of wool and the most important breeding trait for sheep. There are natural and true fiber lengths.
Natural length is the length of a bundle of wool fibers (staple or braid) while maintaining the crimp or waviness of the wool. In a braid of heterogeneous wool, the length of the spine and the down layer are measured separately. According to the standard, the length of heterogeneous wool is determined by the downy zone. The natural length of fine, uniform wool is also called staple height.
True Length- the length of wool fibers in a straightened state from crimp, but not stretched.

Natural length wool is measured when grading sheep; true length appears primarily in technological processes.
Measurements of wool from five fine-fleeced sheep breeds (Altai, Grozny, Caucasian, Stavropol, Soviet merino) showed that the true length compared to natural increases for wool of 70 quality by 36%, 64 quality - by 28% and 60 quality - by 26%.
In addition to the average length of the coat, its very important property is the uniformity (unevenness) of the length of the coat. Unevenness along the length of wool is divided into several components: between individual fibers within a staple, between individual staples in a fleece and between fleeces in a flock. Australian researchers have shown that merino and crossbred wool are characterized by the following relationship between the various components of wool roughness along its length:
between fibers in the staple - 80%
between staples in a fleece - 10%
between runes in a flock - 10%
total - 100%
The uniformity of the wool fibers in the staple is of greatest importance. In a staple of fine wool, to the naked eye, all fibers appear to be the same length. However, when individual fibers are removed from the staple and their length is measured, it turns out that they have different lengths. In coarse and semi-coarse wool, the unevenness of fibers along the length is expressed especially sharply, since each braid has a long spine and shorter fluff. Differences in the length of fibers in the staple (bundle) of wool of different types are clearly visible in the graphic staple diagrams shown in Figure 36.
This figure shows graphical staple diagrams of different types of sheep wool - fine, semi-coarse and coarse. To construct a diagram, all fibers included in a bundle weighing 2-3 g are divided into classes. Each class includes fibers whose length ranges from 10 mm for fine wool, 20 mm for semi-coarse wool, and 25 mm for coarse wool.
The staple diagram allows you to determine the average length of the fibers and the coefficient of their unevenness along the length. The figure shows that fine wool is the most equal in length, while coarse wool has the greatest disparity.
Individual differences in wool length of sheep are subject to very large fluctuations: in many cases they exceed breed differences within one direction of sheep breeding.
There are also gender differences in the length of wool - in rams it is longer than in queens.
Breed differences in coat length are very significant. The shortest and thinnest wool was produced by the old-type German electoral merino sheep when shearing only 0.14-0.50 kg of pure wool. The length of such wool was 3-4 cm. In modern Russian merino sheep of the five main breeds, the natural length of the wool is 66-92 mm, the true length is 89.2-114.3 mm. In Australian Merinos (queens), it varies, decreasing with age (2-8 years) from 10.8 cm to 9.4 cm. The longest wool is obtained from sheep of semi-fine wool breeds. The wool of Lincoln sheep reaches 30-40 cm. The length of the coarse wool of the spring shear can range from 7 to 25 cm or more.
The length of the wool, along with its fineness, is of paramount production importance - the longer the wool, the greater its mass.
Depending on the length, all homogeneous wool is divided into worsted and cloth.
Worsted (combed) wool is usually 5.5 cm or more in length; used to produce smooth, unfelted fabrics with a clearly visible weave pattern of the threads from which the fabric is woven. This includes fabrics ranging from the finest dress fabrics weighing 60-116 g per 1 linear meter to suit fabrics weighing 400-450 g/meter. Worsted fabrics are in greatest demand among the population. The name “worsted” comes from two German words: kamm - comb and wolle - wool.
Cloth (hardware) wool should be shorter than 5.5 or even 2.5 cm in length. Such wool is used for the production of felted, often fleecy fabrics, on the surface of which the threads from which the cloth is woven are completely invisible. This wool is also used for the production of knitted products.
In the felting industry, even the shortest pieces of wool fibers are used - shorter than 1 cm.
An important, but not sufficiently studied, issue is the growth rate of wool, i.e., the increase in the length of its fibers per unit time. It has been established that factors influencing the rate of wool growth include: gender, age of animals, conditions of their keeping and feeding, climate, and frequency of haircuts. In sheep of fine-wool breeds, wool grows relatively slowly: 0.5-1.0 cm per month. The wool of semi-fine-wool, semi-coarse-wool and coarse-wool sheep grows much faster: 1-3 cm per month. Therefore, coarse-wool sheep are usually shorn twice a year.
If fine-wool sheep are not sheared for several years in a row, then the rate of wool growth gradually decreases: in the first year, the length of the wool reaches 7-8 cm or more, in the second year it increases by about 5-6 cm, in the third year - by 2-3 cm per year.
Figure 37 shows the change in wool length in semi-fine wool lambs from birth to 13 months of age. The most intensive hair growth is observed in the period from birth to 4 months, when the length of the hair increases by 1.3 cm per month, later (4-13 months) the growth rate of wool decreases to 0.7 cm per month.

7. Strength (strength) of wool fiber. Strength is understood as the force required to break a single fiber or bundle of wool fibers. There are absolute and relative (specific) strengths.
Absolute strength is determined by the force expended or load under which the wool fiber breaks. In the SI system, absolute strength is expressed in newtons (N), centinewtons (cN) or millinewtons (mN). Previously, according to the MKGSS system, it was designated as kilogram-force (kgf, 1 kgf = 9.80665 N or 1 N = 1.02 kgf).
The absolute strength of a single fiber, other things being equal, depends on its fineness (Table 47).

The table data shows that there is a direct and fairly close relationship between the absolute strength of wool fiber and its fineness. The thicker the fiber, the higher, other things being equal, its strength in centinewtons and grams. The absolute strength of sheep wool fibers of the most common fineness classes is in the range of 3.9-62.0 centinewtons or 4.9-57.2 grams. The guard fibers have a strength of 40-70 g, and the exceptionally strong and coarse guard fibers of camel wool, with a fineness of 80-90 microns, reach a strength of 100 g or more.
Relative strength characterized by the magnitude of the breaking force per unit cross-sectional area of ​​the wool fiber, and is expressed according to the SI system in pascals (1 Pa = 1 newton per 1 m2) or according to the MKGSS system - in kgf/mm2.
In the practice of wool science, instead of relative (specific) strength, the determination of the breaking length of wool fiber is used. The breaking length is the conditional length of the fiber in kilometers at which it, being suspended at one end, breaks from its own mass. The breaking length of an individual wool fiber ranges from 5 to 25 km.
The wool of different breeds of sheep has significant fluctuations in breaking length (Table 48).

Recently, the breaking length is expressed in centinewtons per tex (cN/tex). Tex is understood as the fineness of the fiber, expressed as the ratio of the mass of the fiber (wool) to its length (1 tex = 1 g/km). The breaking length, expressed in cN/tex, is called the breaking load. The conversion factor km to cN/tex is 0.98.
Wool is considered to be of normal strength if its breaking load (cN/tex) is at least: for fine wool - 7, for semi-fine - 8, for semi-coarse and coarse - 9, or 6.7, respectively; 7.8; 8.8 km.
8. Extensibility (elongation) of the fiber. Extensibility is understood as the property of wool fiber to increase its length, i.e. stretch under the action of tearing forces. The difference between the true length of the wool fiber and its length at break, expressed as a percentage of the true fiber length, is called total elongation. The value of the relative total elongation per unit load characterizes the elongation. The elongation coefficient shows the increase in fiber length under a load of 1 kgf or 1 N per 1 mm2 of its cross-section and is expressed as a percentage.
Table 49 shows the elongation coefficients of wool fibers of different fineness.

From the data in the table it can be seen that, in general, as the fineness of wool fibers increases, their elongation coefficient increases. However, three stages can be distinguished in this dynamic.
Extensibility increases most rapidly with increasing fineness of the thinnest fibers, then there is a stage of smooth, but slower, increase in extensibility with an increase in fiber diameter to 40 microns, and then an increase in fiber diameter does not lead to an increase in their extensibility. This is most clearly shown in Figure 38.

Along with the peculiar nature of the change in the tensile strength of fibers as their diameter increases, showing that for fibers with a fineness of 40 microns and higher, tensile strength not only does not increase, but even tends to decrease, the figure shows a graph of changes in fiber strength.
A very clear, slightly parabolic, almost linear, dependence of the absolute strength of wool fibers on their diameter (fineness) is clearly visible. It should be noted that the increase in fiber strength is even somewhat faster than the increase in their fineness.
Wool fibers have higher elongation than other textile fibers. So, if the elongation of homogeneous wool fibers is in the range of 20.0-67.5%, then cotton nylon is 6.9-7.2%.
9. Firmness, elasticity. Elasticity refers to the resistance of a fiber to compression, the ability to restore its original shape and size in whole or in part after the cessation of the force that disrupted it.
Elasticity is the speed at which wool restores its original shape.
The elasticity and elasticity of wool determine such qualities of woolen fabrics as strength, wear resistance, the ability to maintain its original appearance, and for knitted products - the ability to stretch freely.
10. Hygroscopicity- this is the property of wool to absorb moisture from the environment; in this case, the wool mass can increase quite significantly (even by 50%). With the absorption of moisture, wool fibers swell, increasing in diameter by 17.5% and in length by 1.2-1.8%. The absorption of moisture and increase in the moisture content of the wool is accompanied by the release of heat. Hygroscopicity is a very important property of wool, helping to maintain the warmth of the human body when it moves to more humid and cold conditions.
11. Wool moisture. The moisture content of wool refers to the amount of water it contains. This means water that enters the wool from the air and is retained in it mechanically, and is not part of the chemical composition of the wool fiber substance.
The moisture content of wool largely depends on its hygroscopicity. The ability of wool fiber to absorb water and change its linear parameters is used to measure atmospheric humidity using hair hygrometers.
The amount of moisture in wool is affected by the relative humidity of the air, temperature and speed of air movement. In winter, wool has more moisture than in summer. The moisture content of wool also depends on a number of physical factors: grease content, oiliness, the presence of mineral impurities, etc.
The moisture content of wool is of very serious importance in all operations related to taking into account its mass in all wool trading and technological practice, as well as in monetary calculations, taking into account the adjustment of the actual mass of a particular batch of wool.
Compared to other textile fibers, wool is characterized by the highest hygroscopic capacity and moisture content under standard conditions, namely at a temperature of 20 ° C and air humidity of 65% (%):
fine wool - 17.0
coarse wool - 14.0
flax - 12.0
viscose - 12.0
silk - 11.0
acetate fiber - 6.0
nylon, nylon - 4.5
nitron - 1.0
lavsan - 0.3
Increased humidity, and therefore the ability to absorb moisture (sweat), suggests that wool is the best textile fiber in terms of creating comfortable living conditions for humans.
12. Color and shine of wool. The color of wool is determined by the presence of tiny pigment grains of melanin in the cells of the cortical layer of wool fiber. The main colors of wool fibers are white, black, red, gray. There is also a range of other shades available. From a technological point of view, white wool is the most valuable, since products made from it can be dyed any color.
The color of unwashed wool differs from its color after washing, and the more it contains grease and contaminants, the more so.
Under the influence of certain factors, white wool fibers become yellow or even brown.
In many countries with tropical climates, yellowing of the coat remains a serious problem. In India, where this problem receives special attention, more than 30% of the wool produced is yellowed wool. Such wool costs 12-34% less than white wool. Products made from yellowed wool are of low quality and have a shorter shelf life, since it cannot be bleached without destroying the fibers and cannot be dyed in light colors.
Yellowing of wool is the result of insolation, temperature, humidity, quantity and quality of grease, its increased alkalinity, and the composition of the fleece microflora. The pH level of grease from yellowed runes is always higher (8.5-10.0) than that of white fleeces (7.0-8.5). Genetic factors account for up to 25% of the main causes of yellowing.
Sheep with the most severe yellowing of the wool have been shown to have the highest sweat to fleece fat ratio compared to sheep with white wool (Table 50).

The keratin in wool fibers can turn yellow or even brown when exposed to excrement or disinfectants during bathing.
At the same time, it was experimentally proven that cigarette filters made from yellow sheep wool retain nicotine and carbon monoxide much better than filters made from cellulose acetate and normal merino wool.
Shine is the property of wool to reflect rays of light. It depends mainly on the size, shape and relative position of the scales that form the outer layer of the wool fiber. The shine of wool determines one or another brightness, “liveness” of the tones of woolen products.
The wool of the Lincoln breed, Russian longhair and Angora goats has the strongest shine - luster-like. Semi-luster shine is inherent in the wool of sheep of the Romney-Marsh and Kuibyshev breeds. Sheep of fine-fleece and semi-fine-fleece breeds are characterized by a silvery sheen. The wool of coarse-wool sheep has a matte sheen. The quality of astrakhan fur depends to a large extent on the shine of the wool fibers.
13. Density (specific gravity) wool is a fairly stable value and amounts to 1.3 g/cm3. Among all the main natural fibers, wool has the lowest specific gravity (silk - 1.52, cotton - 1.50, linen -1.50). This is an advantage of products made from wool, which are lighter in weight compared to products made from other fabrics.
Among all the most popular fibers, both natural and artificial, wool ranks fourth in density (specific gravity) (g/cm3):
spandex (polyurethane) - 1.00
nylon, nylon - 1.14
acetate fiber - 1.25
sheep wool - 1.30
lavsan - 1.38
cotton - 1.50
linen - 1.50
silk - 1.52
viscose fiber - 1.53
asbestos fiber - 2.55
glass fiber - 2.55
14. Thermal conductivity of wool. The question of the thermal conductivity of wool, like other textile fibers, is of great importance, since thermal insulation is one of the main functions of textiles, felt, felted and fur coats.
The thermal conductivity coefficient of pure wool (at a temperature of 30° and a volumetric weight of 30 kg/m3), amounting to 0.32 W/(m*K), is less than that of other textile fibers, i.e. wool is characterized by lower thermal conductivity . However, when assessing the thermal conductivity of woven, knitted or felted wool products, it is necessary to take into account the thermal conductivity coefficient of not only the wool fibers themselves, but also the thermal conductivity of still air, which is constantly located in small cavities (pores) between the wool fibers. Consequently, the thermal conductivity coefficient of wool fibers is a value that incompletely characterizes the thermal insulation properties of finished wool products, for which they are much higher. Table 51 shows the thermal conductivity coefficients of some materials.

15. Spinability of wool fiber. All operations of the spinning process are aimed at converting a mass of fibrous material into thread. This transformation must be carried out in such a way as to obtain from a given mass of fibers the largest amount of the thinnest and strongest thread, uniform in its properties and structure.
The fineness of the yarn, as well as the fineness of the fiber, is determined by number, that is, by the ratio of the length of the segment in kilometers or meters to the mass of this segment in kilograms or grams. When turning fibrous material into thread, the main indicators of its use are the number, breaking length and weight of the resulting yarn.
The degree of quantitative use of fibrous material during its processing into yarn is determined by its yield, i.e., by the ratio of the mass of yarn to the mass of fibrous material (wool) used to produce it. This can be considered as a way to determine the spinnability of wool.
The main factor determining the spinning ability of wool is its fineness.
16. Ability of wool to felt. Wool fibers have a high ability to felt or felt. As a result of the influence of pressure and friction forces, the fibers intertwine and their entire mass is compacted. The flakes of wool fibers hold the fibers in their position during felling, preventing them from moving in the finished product and increasing its strength. Humidity and temperature determine wool's ability to felt.
The ability of different types of wool to felt is determined by the ratio of the density of the felted product to the density of the original material.
17. Chemical properties of wool fiber. The wool fibers of fine-wool sheep consist of 99% keratin protein, which includes three fractions - α, β, and γ. The predominant component of keratin is α-keratose, which consists of micro- and macrofibrils of fibers. β-keratose is an amorphous substance that connects fibrils to each other. The third fraction - γ-keratosis - is the basis of the subcuticular membrane, which protects the main part of the fiber - the cortical layer - from the effects of various factors. The sulfur content, which is responsible for the main properties of wool, is 2-3 times higher in γ-keratose than in α- and β-keratoses.
Keratin of wool, horns, hooves, as well as silk fibroin, belongs to fibrillar proteins consisting of polypeptide chains capable of stretching and contracting. Keratins have a very high molecular weight.
Approximate chemical composition of wool: carbon - 50%, oxygen - 22%, nitrogen - 18%, hydrogen - 7%, sulfur - 2-5%. The share of ash substances accounts for from 1 to 3%. Keratin differs from other proteins in its increased content of sulfur, which is part of the molecules of the sulfur-containing amino acids cystine, cysteine ​​and methionine. Almost all the sulfur in wool fiber is contained in cystine, which is not synthesized in the body of sheep and therefore must be supplied with feed. With an increase in the sulfur content in wool, the strength of the wool increases and its spinning properties improve.
There is more sulfur in downy fibers than in awn and dead hair. This explains the higher sulfur content of merino wool (4%) compared to coarse wool (3.3%).
Table 52 shows the amino acid composition of wool keratin.

Wool keratin contains 19 amino acids; The highest contents are characterized by glutamic acid, cystine, leucine and arginine.
Wool fibers are capable of adsorbing and chemically binding acids and alkalis from aqueous solutions. Adsorption of acids and alkalis, as in the case of moisture absorption, is accompanied by swelling of wool fibers.
Treating wool with a weak solution of sulfuric acid (up to 5%) increases the strength of the fibers. A 5-7% sulfuric acid solution is used to clean wool from difficult-to-separate plant debris; in this case, no damage is caused to the wool fibers, and plant impurities are dissolved. This process is called wool carbonization.
Alkalies have the most powerful effect on wool. The degree of their destructive effect on wool depends on the type of alkali, concentration, temperature and duration of action of the solution. Caustic alkalis (caustic soda and caustic potassium) are especially damaging to wool. Even at low concentrations of solutions, they cause destruction of wool, and the higher the temperature, the more so. Treatment of wool yarn with a 0.05% solution of caustic soda makes it unsuitable for further processing into fabric. When boiled in a 3% solution of sodium hydroxide or potassium for two to three minutes, the wool completely dissolves. When the concentration of caustic soda solution increases to 15%, the wool is destroyed at an ever-increasing rate.
Treatment with chlorine also causes vigorous decomposition of the substance in wool.
Prolonged exposure to sunlight damages the coat: it turns yellow, becomes hard and brittle. When exposed to ultraviolet rays, wool is destroyed.
18. Wool and other textile fibers. Man has used the wool (hair) of animals, initially wild and then domesticated, as a material to protect his body from external influences and insulate his home since prehistoric times. At first, wool was used together with leather, that is, in the form of skins from which primitive capes and hip covers were made. These items are one of the oldest human inventions. Already in the monuments of the Late Paleolithic, stone scrapers and bone needles were discovered, which were used for processing and stitching skins. Having learned to make yarn from sheared wool in the Neolithic era, man began to produce woolen fabrics. The oldest remains of woolen fabrics were discovered in Switzerland in the area of ​​pile buildings that were inhabited by humans 10-20 thousand years ago. There are well-preserved wall paintings showing that already 6-7 thousand years ago in Egypt and Babylon there were relatively well-organized technologies for spinning wool and making woolen fabrics from yarn (Fig. 39).

This led Ensminger to believe that wool was the first textile fiber in human history, from which the first fabrics were made.
With the growth of the population and the development of its needs, there was a gradual increase in the demand for fabrics made from wool, and then for fabrics made from plant fibers. For a long time, the predominant textile raw materials on the world market were wool and flax. By 1700, their share in the total volume of textile fibers was more than 90%. Then came a period of prolonged decline in demand for these fibers - in 1913 their share decreased to 21%. In recent years, the share of wool and flax has been less than 3%.
The production of individual fibers and their share in the gross production of all types of textile fibers in the world over the past 93 years are shown in Table 53.

The table data shows that during the 20th century there were significant changes in the production volumes of certain types of textile fibers and the ratio of these volumes.
The dynamics of production of the three main types of fibers, which accounted for 95.6% of all fibers produced in the world in 2005, is most clearly presented in Figure 40.
The figure shows that world wool production, starting from the 40s, was at approximately the same level of 1.07-1.30 million tons, increasing slightly in the 60s.

Cotton production increased at an average rate with slight annual acceleration. As a result, cotton production increased 5-fold over the course of a century. During this time, the production of artificial textile fibers, starting almost from scratch, showed exceptionally vigorous growth. Their production volume increased 4,000 times. This happened mainly due to the rapid development of the production of synthetic fibers, which started in the late 50s and early 60s.
All of the above has led to the fact that the structure of textile fibers produced in the world, and consequently the fabrics made from them, has undergone very significant changes during the 20th century. Figure 41 shows the change in the ratio of shares of the two main types of textile fibers - natural and artificial - in their global production.

Textile fibers and, consequently, fabrics made from them are used to produce clothing - the main means of protecting the human body from negative environmental factors and providing environmentally comfortable conditions for its existence. The figure shows that if at the beginning of the last century almost all clothing in the world was made from natural textile fibers, then at the beginning of the 21st century more than half of it was made from artificial, or rather synthetic fibers, since the latter account for 92 %.
The share of man-made fibers in the total global per capita consumption of textile fibers is 62%; According to the long-term development forecast, by 2015 the share of their consumption will increase to 80%. In Russia, the share of consumption of artificial fibers and threads in the balance of the textile industry in 2006 was about 26%.
Currently, the world's leading companies produce artificial fibers and special textile materials based on nanotechnology, which have artificial intelligence, respond to sudden changes in environmental parameters and minimize the consequences of harmful influences, characterized by high thermophysiological and immunomodulatory properties and antimicrobial action.
The bulk of synthetic fibers differs significantly in their most important properties from natural textile fibers, especially wool. Table 54 shows the parameters of the most important physical properties of natural and artificial textile fibers.

The increasing production of artificial, and primarily synthetic, fibers is a consequence of the fact that these fibers have a number of advantages that attract industrialists and give them the opportunity to earn additional profits. The advantages of natural fibers, and especially wool, fade into the background in this case.
The main, outstanding advantages of wool are the following.
The specific gravity (density) of wool is the lowest compared to other natural and artificial fibers. Only nylon, nitron and spandex are lighter than wool, so wool products are among the lightest.
Elasticity (extensibility). According to this indicator, sheep wool and goat down are superior to all natural and artificial fibers with the exception of spandex (polyurethane synthetic fiber).
Hygroscopicity (humidity), that is, the ability to absorb moisture (sweat) is a very important property of wool. In this indicator, wool is superior to all natural and artificial fibers.
Thermal conductivity of wool. This is the most important advantage of wool. Compared to other textile fibers, wool has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient. This refers to the thermal conductivity of the wool substance itself - the keratin protein. It should be borne in mind that the function of a thermal insulator is not performed by the monolithic substance of wool, but by wool products - textile, knitted, felt, felted and fur coats - which constantly contain varying amounts of still air in the small cavities between the wool fibers. This composite substance, consisting of wool and air, has a higher thermal insulation ability than pure wool fiber.
Therefore, when the enthusiastic attitude of Russian specialists towards the accelerated development of the production of synthetic fibers and their widespread introduction in the textile industry due to the displacement of wool is published, the thought immediately arises that these people have forgotten or do not know that:
a) 65% of the Russian territory is located in the permafrost zone;
b) the coldest region of the Northern Hemisphere is located in Russia in the Verkhoyansk region, where the absolute minimum temperature is about -70°C;
c) reserves of non-renewable raw materials for the production of synthetic textile fibers - oil - will run out in different countries in the next years (RBC, 2008, No. 8):
Norway - 2010
Indonesia - 2010
Algeria - 2020
China - 2022
Russia - 2023
Libya - 2057
Iran - 2070
Saudi Arabia - 2084
Kuwait - 2129
Some experts believe that optimistic forecasts regarding the accelerated development of the production of synthetic fibers and their use in the textile industry in the future do not correlate closely enough with data on the depletion of reserves of petrochemical raw materials for the synthesis of fiber-forming polymers.
Based on the above, we can assume that wool sheep breeding, especially in a country like Russia, has very specific prospects for its revival and development.
Of interest are the ways and quantitative structure of using wool for the production of products for various purposes. Table 55 shows the use of different types of produced wool for the manufacture of various products in the USSR.
From the table data it is clear that the prevailing part of all types of wool is used for the production of fabrics - worsted, cloth, knitted. For these purposes, fine wool is used by 96.3%, semi-coarse - by 87.2% and coarse - by 55.6%.

It should be noted that in Russia, as a northern country, a significant part of the wool is used for the production of thermal insulation products, such as felted shoes, shoes and other felt products, fur coat products (wool on specially treated leather, blankets, rugs).
For a long time, in the production of woolen fabrics, a certain amount of artificial and other natural fibers has been added to woolen threads to improve some of their properties. In the USSR, the raw materials used for the production of woolen fabrics had the following composition on average (Table 56).

The table shows that the share of artificial, mainly synthetic, fibers with reduced thermal insulation properties and an almost complete absence of the ability to absorb moisture in Soviet woolen fabrics was 20%. In Russia in 2006, the share of synthetic fibers and threads in the raw material balance of the textile and light industry was about 26%. This value for Russian conditions can be considered quite acceptable and does not require further increase.
Fabrics made from wool with the addition of other textile fibers can be either very thin and light, products from which can provide a person with comfort in hot climates and even the tropics, or thick and very warm, suitable for life in very cold climates.
Wool fabrics are divided into three groups: worsted, fine cloth and coarse cloth.
Worsted (combed) fabrics have a smooth surface with a pronounced weave pattern and are light in weight. To produce worsted yarn, wool with a length of 55 mm and above is used. These fabrics are produced from yarn from No. 84 to No. 28 with a linear density of 12-36 tex (1 tex = 1 g/km). The weight of 1 m2 of fabric varies: for dresses - 130-230 g, for suits -200-500 g.
Fine-woven fabrics are produced from fibers that are shorter (less than 55 mm) in length. The surface of cloth fabrics as a result of felling does not have a weaving pattern, but may have a pile. Fine cloth fabrics are made from hardware yarn from No. 24 to No. 10 (42-100 tex). Light suiting fabrics weigh 260-320 g/m2, the heaviest fabrics for demi-season coats weigh 700-800 g/m2.
Coarse cloth fabrics are produced from machine yarn of low counts - from No. 8 to No. 2 (125-500 tex), obtained from semi-coarse and coarse wool. The best type of coarse cloth fabric is beaver with good, stable pile. These fabrics have a fairly large weight - from 350 to 780 g/m2.

Wool is one of the oldest types of raw materials for the production of textiles for various purposes, as well as knitted products. Wool fabric is a material obtained by weaving fibers of animal origin, namely the hair of various animals. That is, wool is not only the fibers themselves, but also the material that is obtained from them. Natural wool is very expensive, but is in great demand. The reason for this is the excellent properties of wool. But today, wool blend fabrics with the addition of other fibers, which are somewhat cheaper, have become much more widespread.

Types of raw materials

Wool for fabric production is obtained not only from sheep, as most people believe. Although sheep is certainly the most popular and affordable.

The following types of wool can serve as raw materials for wool textiles.

• Sheep(fine wool merino, lambs wool or coarser Shetland and Cheviot) - warm, wear-resistant, durable.
• – fiber obtained from Himalayan goats. One of the most expensive types of wool.
• camel– elastic and light, usually used in combination with sheep for coat materials. A more expensive version is hand-assembled vicuña (for the production of very expensive costume materials).
• Mohair– produced from the hair of Angora goats living in South Africa, the USA, and Turkey. The fabric is very delicate and requires special care.
• Angora– fibers produced from the wool of Angora rabbits. The fabric made from them is very soft, pleasant to the touch, and also one of the most expensive.
• Alpaca (llama, suri)- llama wool. According to its characteristics, it is much warmer than cashmere or merino, and is used in the production of expensive clothing.

All these varieties have different densities, hairiness, and weights, so they are used to produce wool fabrics of different characteristics and purposes. And, of course, different price categories.

By the way, the price is significantly influenced by admixtures of other fibers, especially synthetic ones, which significantly reduce shrinkage and creasing, extend the life of things, and make them easier to care for. In this case, we are already talking.

Pure wool includes materials that may contain up to 10% other natural or artificial fibers (but not synthetics).

Based on the spinning method, woolen fabrics are divided into three main groups.

1. Worsted– from semi-fine or semi-coarse twisted yarn. Wool-blend worsted fabrics are the thinnest and most common for making suits.
2. Fine cloth– from thin machine-produced yarn. The structure of such materials is fleecy, with varying degrees of felting. Wool is obtained from them.
3. Rough cloth– from coarse hardware yarn. Accordingly, the fabrics turn out to be coarse, thick and dense. They are used for sewing informal jackets and military outerwear.

Naturally, technical characteristics, such as density, softness, thickness, strength, differ significantly for all these varieties.

Wool products perfectly absorb foreign odors. Therefore, the aromas of perfume will last for a very long time. However, for the same reason, things made from such materials should not be worn by smokers: the persistent “amber” of cigarette smoke will accompany them constantly.

Properties of wool textiles

In each specific case, fabrics made from wool raw materials will differ not only in the method of spinning and the thickness of the threads, but also in the type of weave, density, degree of felting, percentage and type of synthetic or artificial additives.

But in general, if we talk about all woolen fabrics, we can name several properties common to them.

• Very low thermal conductivity. That is, maximum thermal protection. It is difficult to find another natural equivalent with such a degree of human heat retention.
• Strength and durability. They are responsible for the twisted threads used in weaving.
• Hygroscopicity. Wool perfectly allows air to pass through and absorbs vapors from the human body.
• Dirt resistance. This is a natural property of natural wool.
• Low creasing, for which the special twist of the threads is responsible. By the way, to bring a crumpled product made from such materials into a neat appearance, it is enough to hang it on hangers for a while in a damp room.

If things still need ironing, it is better to use a steamer instead of an iron. Or iron from the inside out, without pressing too hard - by applying strong pressure to the surface of the fabric, you can “smooth out” its expressive texture irrevocably!

Of course, like any textile, wool has a couple of not entirely attractive characteristics.

• Wool absorbs moisture from the environment. Walking through the fog in a wool coat, you may find yourself in wet outerwear.
• When wet in water (during washing), the material can stretch greatly, which requires special delicacy.
• Depending on the fibrous composition, it may cause allergic reactions.
• Woolen fabrics, especially those with a large percentage of synthetic impurities, can accumulate static electricity (spark and “electric shock”).

Main types of woolen fabrics, their use

As with most textile materials, wool is the name for the type of fiber, not the fabric itself. Textiles, produced in a large assortment, have many different names. The use of all these types is different. They are used for sewing products for a variety of purposes: from outerwear to bed linen.

• Reps- a fairly dense suit material of the appropriate weave.
• Gabardine- also dense, but at the same time light, water-repellent fabric for sewing raincoats and summer coats.
• Boucle– with a surface in the form of “nodules”.
• Jersey– a type of knitted fabric, suitable for sewing dresses and other clothes.
• Velours– canvas with uniform dense pile. Used for making furniture upholstery, sewing jackets, cardigans, and elegant dresses.
• Bike– thin fabric with a fleece on one side for sewing demi-season coats or thin blankets.
• Cloth- heavy and very dense, rather rough material for sewing outerwear.
• Flannel– thin, with double-sided combing. It is used to make warm children's clothing and bed linen.
• Tweed– soft. Jackets and demi-season coats are made from it.
• Plaid– a woolen checkered material used for sewing women's suits and dresses, and men's shirts.
• – heavy, dense material of the coat group.
• Cashmere- dense, beautiful fabric for the production of outerwear, stoles, jackets, scarves. Very high quality and expensive.
• Felt- a material obtained by felting wool. Not only clothes are made from it, but also shoes and soft toys.

How to care for wool products?

It is logical to assume that coats, suits and jackets should not be washed in a machine; it is better to take them to the dry cleaner. Skirts, trousers, dresses can be washed on a delicate cycle without hand-wringing. It is preferable to dry such things by laying them out horizontally. More specific recommendations can be found on clothing labels.

Woolen fabrics are a huge assortment of various textiles that are in constant demand among consumers. The main advantage of such materials is heat preservation. And the main disadvantage is the need for careful care. But these efforts will pay off handsomely with the sensations that woolen products give.

For your convenience, we have prepared for you a detailed description of the fabrics and their main properties and characteristics that are used in the manufacture of clothing for the products that are presented in our online women's clothing store "Most Fashionable". If you lack a description of any fabric or have other wishes, you can always write to us about it. All wishes will be taken into account and implemented to the extent possible.

Description of fabrics. Their main types and characteristics

The highest quality artificial fiber, stable in shape, resistant to heat retention, often used instead of wool or in conjunction with it to improve some of the characteristics of the product. Acrylic is also called “artificial wool”, which in its own qualities is similar to natural wool; it has many extremely rare properties. Acrylic fibers can be dyed very well, as a result of which you can make yarn of bright, highly saturated, intense colors. Acrylic canvas has many advantages - hypoallergenic, pleasant to the touch, color fastness. Things are pleasant and comfortable to wear in everyday life, they are comfortable and warm. This material is not fussy when caring, but you should follow some recommendations: wash products at a temperature of no more than 30C, things should not be wrung out, they should be laid out on a flat surface until completely dry. Ironing should be done at minimum temperature.

Alex– a fabric with good elasticity, which is a representative of the “knitted family”. Due to the fact that the fabric is made by knitting (the loops are tightly intertwined with each other), Alex holds its shape perfectly and practically does not wrinkle. Most often, the fabric contains cotton, viscose fibers and about 30% polyester. Business dresses, trouser suits, and classic skirts are made from this material.

Angora- wool fabric of the Angora goat, gentle to the tactile sensations, with a distinctive soft and delicate pile. The fabric comes in light and medium-weight types, plain-dyed or melange. The use of angora is widespread. Women's dresses, all different suits, lightweight coats, etc. are made from it.

Smooth and dense fabric with a glossy front side. Satin is highly wear-resistant, drapes well, and with proper care retains its shape. Fabric made from silk threads is susceptible to high temperatures, but material with the addition of synthetic fibers is more resistant and durable. Satin is used to make evening and cocktail dresses, long skirts, and blouses. Fabric composition may vary. The most expensive products are made from 100% silk. More affordable fabrics will contain cotton and viscose fibers. The cheapest satin is made from 100% polyester.

Velvet– noble fabric with resistant pile. Made from silk, wool and cotton threads. Viscose can also be added to the structure of the material, due to which velvet becomes more durable and stretches well. The fabric is distinguished by its texture - soft pile, up to 5 mm long, gives a pleasant tactile sensation. The peculiarities of velvet are its iridescent surface and color saturation, but the disadvantages include difficulties in care, since such things can only be washed by hand, and stubborn stains are quite difficult to remove.

Airy, lightweight fabric, which, although it seems very delicate, is highly durable and able to retain its shape. The most expensive cambric is the one that is made by hand from linen and cotton threads using the twisting method. But modern industry allows everyone to wear products made from this fabric - in addition to cotton fibers, the fabric contains synthetic threads, which make the material easier to care for and more affordable. Summer dresses, sundresses, skirts are sewn from cambric, and it is also used for finishing blouses.

Natural stretch fabric, which contains a large amount of cotton fibers and a small percentage of elastane. The fabric has the property of high thermal conductivity, which is accompanied by a feeling of pleasant freshness and coolness.

Biflex. A fabric that stands out for one property: it stretches perfectly. It is made by spinning - the threads are intertwined with each other on a special machine. Biflex can have different densities and compositions. Most often, more than 50% of the composition is lycra and lurex - synthetic materials that are responsible for the shine and characteristics of the fabric. The composition may also include microfiber and nylon - another representative of the “synthetic” ones, which give supplex moisture-proof properties. Tracksuits and swimsuits are made from this material.

Boucle- a fabric made from wool thread. Its characteristic features are the presence of many small curls and a knobby surface to the touch. Bouclé is also compared to small astrakhan. The fabric composition, in addition to wool, may include cotton, viscose, and synthetics. The thicker the material itself and the curls, the more wool it contains. They make coats, suits, and scarves from boucle. The most famous fans of boucle suits are Jacqueline Kennedy and Sophia Loren. This fabric does not wrinkle, and woolen products can only be washed by hand.

Velveteen— this material is a synthetic fabric, the outer part of which is made of pile. This material has been known since ancient times, being considered the “fabric of kings,” which made it very expensive and practically inaccessible to the general public. However, now this fabric is made using a slightly different technology, which has increased the elasticity of the material itself. In addition, products made from corduroy are quite pleasant to the touch and durable, but special care must be taken when washing - the material can lose its shape and wrinkle.

Velours- fabric with low, very dense and soft pile. A material that is pleasant to the body, used for sewing clothes. Things made of velor are comfortable and cozy. Items made of velor practically do not dry out and are resistant to other damage, do not stretch and look like new after a long time. Fabric composition: lycra, cotton with polyester or can consist of 100% cotton. Thanks to the inner layer of jersey that comes into contact with your baby's skin, which is made of cotton. Things made of velor are comfortable, cozy and warm for children and adults. It is recommended to wash at less than 35 degrees, also hand wash. Ironing after washing is not recommended.

Viscose- a delicate, tactile fiber (fabric) with the highest brightness of color and soft shine. Viscose has a composition similar to natural cotton fiber and is therefore hygroscopic and easily permeable to air. Moreover, it gives a feeling of coolness in hot weather.

Gabardine. A fabric that is durable due to a special weave of threads - embossed, diagonal weaving is used, and also holds its shape well, allowing you to create draperies and textured folds that do not deform after washing. Natural gabardine is made from merino sheep wool - expensive suits and short coats are made from this material. Today, gabardine is most often composed of cotton, rayon and textured polyester threads. Skirts, jackets and suits are made from this fabric.

Galliano- a fabric that got its name thanks to the famous Italian designer, who, when sewing products, pays special attention to the lining. Yes, galliano is a lining fabric that can have a different composition. For example, the lining that will be used to sew a coat or jacket will contain twill and viscose. For dresses and skirts, galliano fabric is used, which consists of satin and polyester. This material is durable, holds its shape well, but has virtually no stretch.

Guipure- translucent fabric in the form of lace patterns on a mesh base. This material is widely used for the production of products consisting of it, as well as some individual elements for models, for example: lace sleeves of dresses, sweaters, etc., lace inserts on the back in summer or demi-season models. Guipure is used for the production of evening dresses, sweaters and other things. Lace overlays give the models a festive look.

- a combination of two elegant fabrics that allows you to get an impressive material at low cost. On the front side you see a sophisticated guipure pattern, and on the back side you see smooth and pleasant to the touch satin. To make this fabric, stretch satin is used, which includes lycra, as well as guipure. The latter, as a rule, is made of cotton or polyamide threads, less often - of silk, linen and viscose. Guipure on satin is chosen for sewing corsets for evening dresses, jackets, and skirts.

Guipure Printed. A fabric that consists of two elements: embossed lace and a thin mesh, which, in fact, connects the lace elements. Lace is usually made of cotton, but the mesh may contain synthetic fibers, which add wear resistance and strength to the product. Printed guipure, unlike traditional guipure, can have different color schemes, since the color and design here are applied mechanically. Original dresses are made from this material; it is used as inserts in jackets and evening dresses where a corset is used.

Diving- High-quality and highly elastic fabric, which gives it a dimensionless effect. It fits your body perfectly, drapes perfectly and holds its shape well. The fabric is breathable and has the important inherent property of removing moisture and sweat from the surface of the body. Diving is a versatile and durable fabric and is often used for sewing: not only everyday women's clothing, dresses, but also for the production of sportswear, including athletics.

Diving Micro- a fabric that, unlike its “brother” - diving, has a very wide range of applications. It is used to make dresses, pencil skirts, tracksuits, and leggings. It is made from thin viscose fibers and is lightweight, stretches well and does not restrict movement. In addition to viscose, micro diving also contains lycra, polyester and elastane. Due to the presence of lycra and elastane, the fabric drapes well and fits well.

Double thread- thickened knitted fabric, made on the basis of kulirka, simply “Kulirka”, one of the natural cotton-based materials widely used in our everyday life. the outer side is flat and smooth, and the inner side is loop-shaped, created by knitting interlining threads of the highest density from the inside. The fabric is resistant to wear and does not lose shape, pilling or stretching. This natural and natural material allows the skin to breathe perfectly even in warm and hot weather, easily passing air through itself. Important: it is advisable to wash at a temperature of no more than 30 degrees, as the fabric shrinks after washing. Composition – 100% cotton.

Thickened fabric. Either wool (worsted) or cotton spun yarn. Scars are clearly visible on the surface of the fabric; they are obtained as a result of appropriate selection of the proportions of density and thickness and the introduction of a special weave of threads. The diagonal is so strong that it is used for sewing military uniforms, and for you and me, coats, jackets and other things are sewn from it.
During production, the fabric is created on the basis of natural materials. Therefore, the fabric is hygroscopic and allows air to pass through quite easily, allowing the body to breathe. All things made from this material bring convenience and comfort, including practicality in use to the owner. The product does not cause hypoallergenic reactions. I would like to note the thermal insulation characteristics: in cool times, clothes made from it warm and retain heat, and at elevated temperatures, on the contrary, it gives a feeling of freshness and coolness.

Jacquard— this material is a special fabric that is made by complex interweaving of various threads. This technology also affects the price of the final material, which is quite high. As for products made from this fabric, they are very durable, lightweight, wear-resistant and hypoallergenic. The use of natural materials in production allows this fabric to be used even for clothing for newborns.

Suede- aka champoo (aka rovduga and vezh), this is leather made from deer and sheepskins using a method called fat tanning. It has characteristic properties: soft silkiness, a certain velvety quality and such an important property as moisture resistance. Painted in different colors. A distinctive feature of the fabric is its sponginess and porosity.

The material is made by combining a cotton or silk base with microfiber or polyester threads. Clothes - skirts, jackets - are made using a woven method - microfiber cloth is split into small fibers and applied to a cotton or silk base. This method ensures the reliability of the material. The non-woven method, in which polyester threads are glued to a base, is distinguished by its low cost, but also of lower quality processing. Artificial suede is soft, wear-resistant and practically does not deform.

The material consists of two parts: a base and a layer of polymers. It has good strength, elasticity, hypoallergenicity and withstands frost and ultraviolet radiation. Cotton and polyester can be used as a base, and polyurethane as a top layer. The combination of a fabric base and porous polyurethane makes faux leather a fabric that is highly breathable and can be used to make dresses, skirts, leggings and trousers.

– this includes several types of canvases that differ in their composition, but have several mandatory properties. Suit fabric should hold its shape well, fit your figure and be wear-resistant. The material can contain wool with elastane, cotton with the addition of polyester, and viscose. The best suiting fabrics are considered to be cotton with the addition of synthetic fibers - they are good for the summer-spring period, as well as woolen fabrics with viscose and elastane. The latter are worth choosing for a warm winter-autumn suit.

Suit fabric "Tiare"- a fairly thick, plain-dyed suiting fabric of a dark color with elastane; the clothing is flexible and elastic, which gives it a sort of dimensionless quality and does not restrict movement. A special feature is the softness, comfort and amazing pleating of the fabric. "Tiare" is widely used for sewing school clothes and clothes for women. Often used to make dresses, jackets, skirts, sundresses and much more.

— this fabric is almost 100% natural cotton. Sometimes certain impurities of organic origin are added to the composition, but they only enhance the positive characteristics of cotton. Clothing made from cotton absorbs moisture well and allows air to pass through, which makes it almost indispensable in the summer. It also has good hypoallergenic properties, but with prolonged wear the color saturation may be somewhat lost. However, this drawback is more than covered by its undoubted advantages.

Natural fabric made from cotton fibers. Cotton is distinguished by its hypoallergenicity, ability to pass air well and durability. The type of fabric called "shirt" has several features. The first is the composition. This cotton will consist of 100% cotton without the addition of viscose or lycra. The second is the ability to keep its shape well, which is achieved thanks to the composition and dense weaving of the fibers. Shirt cotton is used for making blouses and, as the name suggests, for making dress and casual shirts.

Crepe- a category of fabrics, mainly silk fabrics, whose threads are produced with significant (crepe) twist, and also in some variants with special (crepe) weaves. Crepe fabrics have characteristic properties: low creasing and excellent appearance, elasticity and wear resistance, as well as good drape. To highlight and emphasize all the splendor and grace of the crepe pattern, it is most often made plain-dyed. Due to the fact that crepe threads have increased rigidity, it has the disadvantage of increased fraying.

Lightweight but fairly dense fabric with a slightly rough surface. The prefix “crepe” indicates a special method of weaving threads - first they are twisted in different directions, and then intertwined using the traditional plain method. Thanks to this technology, a durable but lightweight material is obtained. Crepe chiffon is used to make evening and summer dresses, skirts, and scarves. The fabric lends itself well to draping and is durable. Composition: 100% silk.

Corn- excellent moisture absorption is one of the main distinctive properties of the fabric. What’s interesting is that the corn dries instantly, one might say before our eyes. We also include the ability of the fabric to retain color for a long time, resistance to fading when exposed to sunlight and other external influences. It is worth highlighting its most basic advantage - it is hypoallergenic. The fabric is very pleasant and soft to the touch.

Linen is a fabric of natural origin obtained from a plant. Products made from this material have very good breathability characteristics, which is a big advantage in very hot weather, and they are also hypoallergenic and durable. Linen retains its integrity quite well, despite frequent wear and regular washing. It is worth noting that this material is sensitive to temperatures, so these clothes should be washed in not very hot water so that the material does not shrink.

Madonna- a fabric that is characterized by maximum breathability and consists of synthetic materials - polyester and viscose. Sometimes spandex fibers are added to the composition - this fabric will be as elastic as possible. Madonna is good because stains from the surface are easily removed due to the fact that the fabric fibers undergo special treatment. Evening dresses are made from this material when you need to create a model with heavy folds, as well as jackets and suits.

Fabric "Macaron", (also “macaroni”, “pasta”) is a fabric of plant origin, usually calico, 100% cotton. It got its name thanks to its simple design - thin lines on a light background. For a finished weaving pattern, a clear perpendicular weave of threads is necessary. The material comes out very pleasant and light. It is used for needlework, sewing children's clothing, bed linen, and home costumes.

Oil is a synthetic material based on polyester and viscose. The use of these materials allows clothes made from oil to be breathable, not wrinkle, and not lose their shape for a long time. It is noteworthy that wearing such clothes in the heat allows you not only not to experience discomfort, but also to feel a feeling of freshness and coolness, which makes this fabric extremely popular among manufacturers of summer clothing.

Practical and pleasant to the touch. It is often used to sew home textiles, bathrobes, pajamas and tracksuits. The composition is usually linen, cotton or bamboo. The surface of the terry is made up of loops of warp threads. The pile can be single- or double-sided. High-quality fabric perfectly absorbs moisture, does not deform and does not require ironing. There are canvases with a relief pattern and cut pile.

Memory– a fabric that restores its shape well, does not wrinkle and has a matte shine on its front side. The polymer fibers that make up memory are responsible for the ability of the fabric to remember and restore its shape. The material has the following properties: does not allow moisture to pass through, does not stretch, and repels dirt. They make jackets, raincoats, and coats from memory. The fabric is also suitable for making skirts and suits. In this case, about 30% satin or cotton is added to its composition.

Micro oil- very similar in composition to knitted fabric. The fabric consists of: polyester 90%, viscose 5%, lycra 5%. Incredibly thin, flowing material pleasant to the body.

Mohair- a thin, silky fabric made from the wool of the Angora goat. It is used for sewing dresses, suits, sweaters and even coats. Until 1820, this fabric was available only to the Turkish Sultan, but in the mid-20th century, Angora goats began to be exported from the country and sold as valuable material in European countries. Mohair is very light, retains heat well and has a soft shine.

Neoprene- This is a synthetic material that is made on the basis of foam rubber. In the modern world, this material is used in a variety of areas, but it is most widespread in water sports, where it serves as the basis for athletes’ clothing. This is quite understandable, because this material does not allow moisture to pass through, and also allows you to retain the natural heat of the human body, regardless of temperature changes.

Nicole- a fabric that is practical and has bright colors. It consists of almost 70% polyester, which makes it wrinkle-resistant, retains its rich color and washes well. Contains elastane and viscose - the product will fit well to your figure. Summer sundresses, dresses, shorts in catchy yellow, turquoise, pink shades, as well as formal suits in classic gray and black colors are made from Nicole fabric.

- airy, light fabric, which, at the same time, is rigid. The material holds its shape well and can be either shiny or matte. It all depends on the composition of the fabric. “Shiny organza” is one that is made from polyester fibers that undergo additional processing. Matte fabric is made from viscose and silk threads. True, silk organza can rarely be found, since such material is very expensive. The fabric can be decorated with lurex or metallized threads. Organza is used to trim dresses, skirts and suits.

- a fabric that has complex production technology and consists of several elements. The first is a base made of polyester or oil, which is responsible for the practicality of the material. Thanks to polyester, the sequin stretches well. The second element is, in fact, sequins, sparkles that are sewn to the base. They are made from plasticex or thin metal plates. Sequins can have different shapes, colors and different levels of shine. As for the composition, sequin fabric is usually synthetic.

To make the lining, fabrics with synthetic fibers are most often used, as they are durable. Viscose is a fabric that is used as a lining in tracksuits. Satin is considered the best option for lining coats and men's suits. Polyester is the most popular lining fabric used when sewing down jackets and jackets. Satin is an expensive fabric that is used as a lining for evening dresses, skirts and classic suits.

- fabric based on cotton. Most often, it consists of 80-90% cotton, and is supplemented with synthetic, less often silk threads. The main advantages of poplin: the fabric is highly breathable, soft to the touch, holds its shape well and does not require ironing. After several washes, poplin will not lose color or stretch. They sew dresses, shirts and jackets from this fabric - that is, practical products that should not lose their shape, but are certainly wear-resistant.

- a fabric that looks like elastic and belongs to the “knitted family”. The material is made by knitting, in which the front loops alternate with the wrong ones. Due to this, the resemblance to a small elastic band is achieved. Children's hats, home clothes, and underwear are made from ribana. Fabric composition: 100% cotton. There are also fabrics with the addition of viscose and polyester (no more than 5%).

Gozhka- a fabric that many associate with burlap. But matting is more elegant both in appearance and composition. Ideal material for sewing outerwear and for suits, dresses in the spirit of Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel. The fabric contains natural materials: wool, cotton, linen. 2-5% acrylic is also added to increase wear resistance. The matting holds its shape well and has a dense texture. Another feature is that the fabric does not wrinkle and does not require special care.

A non-woven material that has unique properties: retains its shape well, does not absorb moisture and has high thermal insulation characteristics. To make padding polyester, synthetic fibers or recycled materials are used. The fibers are held together by gluing or heat treatment. The density of padding polyester depends on the thickness of the layers used. The minimum density is 0.04 kg per m², and the maximum is 1.5 kg. This material is used as insulation for jackets, down jackets, and tracksuits.

Software– looking at the name, it becomes clear that this fabric is soft. Outwardly, it resembles velor, but the composition of the software is somewhat different. The fabric can consist of cotton, elastane and viscose fibers. 100% polyester is also available. The front side of the software has a relief structure and barely noticeable lint, while the back side is matte. Dresses with frills and skirts are sewn from this fabric - it lends itself well to draping, allowing you to create folds that perfectly hold their shape. The material can withstand washing at 40 degrees, the color will not fade in the sun, and you won’t have to iron soft clothes.

Light, weightless and delicate fabric that stretches well and retains its shape. Its composition is synthetic material. Stretch mesh is used to decorate wedding and evening dresses. Recently, this material has been chosen for sewing tutu skirts, as well as shapewear. Due to the fact that the material has a low density, products made from it must be washed on a delicate cycle. Fabric composition: 95% polyester and 5% elastane.

- a fabric that is distinguished by its density and glossy surface. It is made by plain weave of threads, due to which the material is distinguished by its ability to repel moisture. The dense weaving of the threads opens up another ability of the fabric - it perfectly holds its shape and forms rigid folds. Taffeta is made from polyester, viscose, acetate and cotton. Less commonly, you can find silk threads in the composition. Evening dresses and skirts are made from this fabric, and taffeta is also used to decorate blouses and trousers.

Tweed– wool fabric with good density. It is made by twill weaving thick fibers. The fabric is distinguished by its textured surface, and the combination of threads of different colors and the method of weaving create a textured pattern with rough knots typical of tweed. Women started wearing tweed suits thanks to Coco Chanel. The famous skirt and jacket sets in pale pink, black and white were made from this natural wool fabric. Tweed has elasticity, strength, does not wrinkle, and the only drawback of the fabric is that it must be protected from moths.

tiar- the fabric from which suits are most often made, both trouser and with a skirt. The material is distinguished by a smooth, even surface with a barely noticeable diagonal scar. Most of the composition is polyester, thanks to which the tiara holds its shape well and does not wrinkle. Contains viscose and wool - these fibers add softness and make the products warm. The tiara will definitely contain elastane, which ensures the elasticity of the fabric. Most often, tiaras are used in black, brown, dark blue and gray costumes.

Thinsulate- is one of the best insulation materials for clothing today. Ultra-light material that does not absorb moisture, thanks to which it will warm you even in damp weather, and has amazing thermal insulation qualities. Thinsulate is one of the weightless insulation materials, it has the best qualities of bird down, only after washing it will not crumple or bunch up like down - this is one of the most positive qualities of this insulation. Thinsulate is very effective and can keep you warm even in cold weather - 60 degrees. Care - Thinsulate items can be washed either by hand or in a machine. If you have chosen automatic washing, it is recommended to select a gentle mode: revolutions less than 600 per minute, water temperature less than 40°C, gentle spin. Even with repeated washing, things do not lose their original appearance and shape, the fabric dries very quickly.

Three-thread- thickened knitted fabric, made on the basis of kulirka (kulirki are natural materials based on cotton), the outer side is smooth, and the inner side is thick pile, which is formed as a result of knitting interlining threads on the outer side. This fabric is resistant to pilling and stretching of the material, serves for a long time and does not change shape in any way. This is a natural fabric, it allows air to pass through, allowing the skin to breathe, and thanks to the brushing it retains heat, making the material ideal for cold weather. The three-thread fabric is pleasant to the body and sensations. Recommended care: wash at less than 35 degrees. Fabric composition: 100% cotton.

- knitted fabric, which has its own peculiarity - the front and back sides are different in appearance. The front is a smooth fabric, soft to the touch, but the back will be distinguished by the presence of fleece, which is formed by weaving the fibers of the footer (thick cotton fabric). The latter add thermal insulation properties to the material. Three-thread "Loop" is used for sewing sports suits. Fabric composition: 100% cotton.

Trick is a lightweight knitted fabric based on synthetic threads. It holds its shape perfectly, is elastic, has a smooth and shiny surface. This material absorbs moisture well and dries quickly. Stains can be easily washed off and there is no need to iron at all. As a rule, tricks are used for sewing tracksuits, tops, and leggings. There are plain and printed fabrics.

Soft, fleecy, pleasant to the touch fabric, which is popular among world designers due to its two qualities - the “ability” to retain heat well and durability. Natural angora is made from goat wool and has a silky shine. But angora knitwear refers to mixed fabrics, which include wool, viscose and polyester. The percentage of the latter, as a rule, is up to 55%. Cardigans, warm dresses with sleeves, and tracksuits are made from this fabric.

Jersey jersey - as is already clear, this is a type of knitted fabric that is knitted using the single-row weaving method, and not woven like other fabrics. How can you tell if it's a jersey? You can take the raw edge of the fabric and stretch it across the width. It should be wrapped in a roll. The composition of the fabric may include woolen threads, cotton, polyester and mixed fibers. The more elastane and synthetic fibers in the composition, the better the jersey stretches. The fabric is used to make both homewear, cardigans, dresses, sweatpants and T-shirts.

A fabric that, although it belongs to the “knitted family,” is made of synthetic fibers. It does not wrinkle, is durable, wear-resistant and has excellent elasticity. The front side of the fabric can have a shiny finish, while the back side will look like a traditional knitted fabric. Disco knitwear is used for sewing cocktail dresses, blouses, tight-fitting skirts and overalls. Fabric composition: 95% polyester and 5% elastane. Some manufacturers add cotton fibers to the composition.

A fabric that differs in the way the threads are woven. Here the transverse thread is reinforced, and the canvas itself is distinguished by the presence of small scars, due to which the material is externally similar to rep. To the touch, the “ribbon” is a velvety, soft fabric. This knitwear does not wrinkle, quickly regains its shape, has good breathability and thermal insulation. They make dresses, trousers, and skirts from rib knitwear that fit perfectly to the figure. Fabric composition: 95% cotton and 5% lycra or 40% cotton, 30% viscose, 30% polyester.

Flannel- a very soft and fleecy type of cotton-based fabric. Widely used for making home textiles. It has a twill or plain weave of threads, a uniform two- or one-sided pile. It has excellent absorbent and heat-saving properties. It is often used in the production of bathrobes and warm pajamas. There are printed, shirting, bleached, plain-dyed and robe flannel.

Fleece- This is a synthetic material made from polyester, as well as other materials of artificial origin. Fleece material can be used as a lining and also as an outer material. Products made from fleece are quite light and dense, which makes this material indispensable in the manufacture of sportswear.

Flock- dense fabric based on polyester and cotton. It can withstand heavy loads and is often used as upholstery for upholstered furniture. In the production of the material, finely cut fibers are used, which are applied to the adhesive base using a special tool - a flocker. It creates an electrostatic field that allows tiny particles to be firmly attached.

French knitwear- knitted fabric with excellent stretchability. Knitwear is widely used in sewing all types of clothing, turtlenecks, women's dresses, suits for women, jackets, sweaters, pullovers. The loose composition gives this fabric softness. French knitwear allows human skin to breathe, protecting it from hot and cold weather.

Cotton is a natural material obtained from a plant that is used in many types of other fabrics. Cotton products are very light and pleasant to the touch, breathable, which allows you to wear these clothes even in the hottest weather. Cotton is used in a wide variety of industries - from tailoring to furniture production. It is not recommended to wash cotton items at hot temperatures, otherwise they may shrink and lose their shape.

Cotton harvester- This is 100% natural fabric. Typically used for sewing bed linen and home textiles. Crinkled fabric is obtained by special twisting of threads and heat treatment. The result is an interesting relief pattern, the fabric itself is light, breathable, and pleasant to the touch. The advantage of harvester cotton is that it does not require ironing and maintains a neat appearance for a long time.

- a material that is distinguished by its ability to retain heat well. This is achieved by producing the material - synthetic fibers are twisted and combined using a thermal method. Cavities are formed inside the fibers, which retain heat. Hollofiber is non-toxic, allows air to pass through well, does not absorb odors and does not shrink when washed. It is used as insulation for jackets, down jackets, sports and ski suits.

Silk is a fabric of natural origin obtained from cocoons that are woven by silkworms. The technology for its production is quite complex, which naturally affects the cost of the final material. However, its advantages brighten up this small drawback. The fabric is very breathable, absorbs and evaporates moisture, and also has a positive effect on the human skin itself - the chemical composition of silk allows the epidermis to regenerate faster. In addition, silk items are reliable protectors against various ticks and lice, as well as other harmful microorganisms.

Chiffon— this material was made using natural silk, but later synthetic materials began to be used. Products made from chiffon are unusually light and airy, but their strength leaves much to be desired. However, this material is quite widely used in many fashion houses as a material for clothing.

- this is a fabric that is a mixture of cotton and viscose in a ratio of 50 to 50 (there are fabrics with 60% cotton and 40% viscose). The material itself has a fairly dense structure, but this does not affect its weight - the fabric is quite light and airy. The stack is very pleasant to the touch, not for nothing that dressing gowns were made from this material in Soviet times. The fabric may be somewhat reminiscent of wool, but its structure is more delicate and elastic.

Eco-leather is a synthetic material made from polyurethane. From the name it is clear that it is a substitute for natural leather, but, unlike leatherette, it is practically in no way inferior to it. The discovery of this material made it possible not only to save a considerable number of animals, but also to take care of the environment, because the production of natural leather is often associated with its pollution. As for the fabric itself, it is very reliable and similar in its characteristics to genuine leather.

Wool is the sheared hair of animals: sheep, camels, goats, cows, rabbits and others. When shearing sheep, the wool is removed in a continuous layer (fleece). However, the fleece is not uniform in quality. The highest quality wool is found on the shoulder blades, back, belly, somewhat coarser on the sides and even coarser on the hindquarters and legs. The quality of wool depends on the time the sheep are sheared. Spring wool is softer because... it contains more fluff - the most valuable fiber; such wool is also much cleaner, which produces less waste. There is almost no fluff in autumn sheared wool, so the fibers are hard.

The wool is sorted by hand. The fleece is folded on special tables, divided into separate parts, and according to certain standards, taking into account the quality of the raw materials, the wool is selected into certain batches.

The structure of wool fiber is divided into root And kernel. Root - This is the part of the hair hidden by the skin. Kernel- this is the part of the hair that protrudes above the skin and consists of protein - keratin. The hair shaft consists of three layers: scaly, cortical And core.

Scaly layer (cuticle) consists of horn-like scales covering the body of the hair. The scales can be in the form of rings, semi-rings, or plates. This layer protects the hair body from destruction, affects the shine of the hair and its ability to curl.

Cortical layer consists of spindle-shaped cells that form the body of the hair and is the main layer that determines its strength, elasticity and other qualities.

Core layer is located in the middle of the fiber and consists of cells filled with air.

Depending on the thickness and structure, there are 5 types:

fluff- thin convoluted fibers consisting of two layers - scaly and cortical. Down forms the entire hair coat of fine-wool sheep and the coat adjacent to the skin of coarse-wool sheep. The scaly layer is shaped like rings or semi-rings;

awn- a coarse fiber, thicker than fluff and has almost no crimp. Consists of lamellar scales, cortical and solid core. The hair of semi-coarse-wool and coarse-wool sheep consists of the awn.

transitional hair- located between the down and the spine. The entire hairline may consist of transitional hair. Forms 3 layers - scaly, cortical and discontinuous core.

dead hair- a coarse, hard fiber that does not dye well and breaks during processing. It consists of 3 layers - scaly, thin cortical and wide core, occupying almost the entire diameter of the fiber.

fleece- this is the wool taken from a sheep, which is a single cover.

Wool is divided into the following types:

thin wool (up to 25 microns), consists of down fibers; obtained from fine-wool sheep and used to produce high-quality wool and cloth fabrics;

semi thin wool (25-34 microns), consists of downy fibers and transitional hair; used for the production of calibrated, suit and coat fabrics;

semi rough wool (35-40 microns), consists of spine and transitional hair; used for the production of semi-coarse cloth, suiting and coat fabrics;

rough wool (more than 40 microns); has all types of fibers; used for the manufacture of coarse cloth fabrics.

Length. From 20 to 450 mm. It is divided into short-fiber wool, up to 55 mm, and long-fiber wool, more than 55 mm.

Tortuosity. It is characterized by the number of twists per 1 cm of fiber. The thinner the fiber, the greater the number of twists per 1 cm of its length. There are wool of normal, high and gentle crimp.

Thickness (thinness). Depends on the type of fiber. The thickness of fluff is up to 30 microns, awn is 50-90 microns, dead hair is 50-100 microns or more.

Strength. Depends on thickness and structure. Relative breaking load of fibers 10.8-13.5 s N/tex.

The elongation of dry fibers at the moment of rupture is 40%. A significant proportion (up to 70%) of the total elongation is made up of elastic and highly elastic deformations, due to which woolen products crumple little and retain their shape.

The color of the wool of fine-wool sheep is white, slightly cream. Coarse and semi-coarse wool can be colored - gray, red, black.

Gloss depends on the size and shape of the scales. Large, giving the wool a sole shine. Small, increase the dullness of the fiber.

Feltability — This is the ability of wool to form a felt-like covering during the felling process. The felted fabric is thin and elastic, thanks to the highly crimped wool.

Wool is resistant to all organic solvents, used for dry cleaning.

Amphoteric properties

Interacts with acids, and with alkalis. When boiled, wool dissolves in a solution of sodium hydroxide (2%). Under the influence of concentrated nitric acid it turns yellow, under the influence of concentrated sulfuric acid it becomes charred. It loses strength at a temperature of 130 degrees.

Resistance of wool to light weather significantly higher than that of plant fibers. When exposed to direct sunlight for 1120 hours, the strength of the fibers decreases by 50%.

At burning wool fibers are sintered in the flame; when the fibers are removed from the flame, their burning stops, a sintered black ball forms at the end, and the smell of burnt feathers is felt.

Different types of wool are combined with other fibers and used to make outerwear and knitwear.

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“If you are inquisitive, you will be knowledgeable.”(Socrates).

Not a single archaeologist will say exactly when and from what the first clothes appeared, and even more so it is not known when and who came up with the idea to create the first fabric. But all the natural fabrics that are most valuable to us come from there - from the distant past.

TARGET: study the composition and structure of wool fibers.

TASKS:

• Systematize knowledge about the origin of fibers (wool) and their use in everyday life
• Get acquainted with the chemical properties and technical characteristics of animal fibers (wool)
• Develop cognitive activity and creative potential of students
• Form conflict-free communication and ability to work in groups
• Teach you to highlight the main thing from a large amount of information

Initially, the origin of certain fabrics was tied to a specific place. But there is a fiber that belongs to the whole world. This is wool.

Sheep were bred everywhere. And not just sheep. Wool and other animals were used for weaving. However, the oldest wool fabric found by archaeologists dates back to approximately the fourth millennium BC.

Both coarse woolen fabrics and fabrics of delicate quality were produced almost everywhere. Wool was also used to apply patterns on linen fabrics. Wool threads were also used to make fabric from other fibers.

At all times, people have strived to improve the quality of fabric. It is known that in the 2nd century. BC. The Romans developed a fine-wool breed of sheep by crossing the legendary Colchis rams with Italian sheep. Then the Spaniards crossed representatives of this new breed with African sheep. This is how Spanish Merinos appeared, spreading throughout Europe and America.

All peoples at all times have had a special relationship with wool. Even noble ladies did not consider it shameful to spin and knit from wool. An interesting fact: already in the 13th century, a spinning wheel appeared that rotated a spindle using a wheel, but for a long time the yarn obtained in this way was considered a second-class material and was not used for the basis of fabric.

Our museum has preserved samples of spinning wheels and spindles.

By the 12th century. refers to the beginning of professional production of woolen fabric in Italy, which quickly became the center of its production and sale. From there, fabrics were supplied to the countries of Central Asia, Persia, the Caucasus and even China. Historians associate the emergence of banks, which at that time were an appendage of textile production, with the wool trade.

Wool is the name given to fibers from the hair of a mammal that have certain qualities necessary for the production of various materials. The bulk of wool processed in industry is sheep. Types of wool fibers: fluff (the most valuable thin, soft crimped fiber), transition hair, awn (thicker, stiffer and less crimped fiber than fluff) and “dead hair” (low strength and hard). Wool is used to produce yarn, fabrics, knitwear, felting products, etc.

Classification of wool and its properties

Classification of sheep wool by thickness. When classifying wool by type of application, its most important feature is the thickness of the fiber. Wool of different thicknesses is obtained from the same sheep; internationally, the most commonly used classification method is the English system. It is classified as follows:

• Merino wool: 60"s - finer,
• Thin grossbred: 50"s - 58th.
• Thick coat: below 32"s
• 60"s wool is 60 point wool

Properties of wool

Heat resistance.

The most famous property of wool is its ability to retain heat. This is because wool, due to the composition of its fiber, can bind a lot of heat and store it between the fibers. In addition to its good ability to generate heat, there is also a feature that wool, absorbing moisture from the environment, releases heat itself. The main substance of wool fiber is keratin, which belongs to protein compounds. Woolen fabrics do not get very dirty and self-clean in the air, they hardly wrinkle and can be smoothed out on their own.

Feltability

The composition of the cage gives the wool the ability to mat. Under the influence of heat and moisture, the cells present on the surface of the fibers open, and if the wool is then rubbed, the cells adhere, and the fibers cannot return to their normal position. Feltness is accompanied by contractility. Felting is good, for example, when making blankets, but it can be avoided by anti-felting the wool. For example, Super-wash treatment, after which the product can withstand machine washing.

Other properties

Wool fibers repel dirt and are easy to clean. Thanks to the elasticity of the fiber, the product does not wrinkle, and folds straighten out on their own, especially in damp weather. Wool fabric repels water droplets, but can absorb water vapor or water up to 40% of its weight. Wool fabrics have good hygienic properties - in clothes made from wool, the skin “breathes”.

Wool pests include moths and microbes. If wool has been left in a damp place for a long time, microbes cause mold and rotting of the wool.

Too high a drying temperature and prolonged exposure to sunlight reduce the strength of wool. Wool is relatively resistant to acids, but alkali, even in a weak solution, spoils wool.

Wool serves as a good raw material for textile products. It is often used in a mixture with some chemical fiber to improve the strength of the product and its washing properties, as well as to reduce the price.

Before being sent to textile factories, wool is subjected to primary processing:

1) sort, that is, select fibers by quality;

2) crush - loosen and remove clogging impurities;

3) wash with hot water, soap and soda;

4) dried in tumble dryers.

After the wool has undergone primary processing, a tow is obtained - a bundle of fibers. It was tied to a spinning wheel, then the fibers were gradually pulled out, twisting them at the same time - and this was the result of the thread. The finished thread was wound on a spindle.

Spinning is hard work. The thickness and strength of the thread, and therefore the future fabric, depend on the skill of the spinner. To make this work easier, a spinning wheel with a wheel was invented, which was gradually replaced by the modern electric spinning wheel.

Why is not all wool suitable for spinning?

Already 4,000 years ago, people knew how to turn animal hair into balls of yarn and knit warm and soft sweaters, vests, socks and scarves. Back then, though, they probably hadn’t invented sweaters yet, but they knitted something similar - warm and comfortable. :-)

Yarn cannot be made from the wool of any animal - only some are suitable for this. Only wool from sheep, goats, rabbits, camels and llamas is suitable for the production of pullovers and scarves. Some originals like to wear belts and socks knitted from the brushes of long-haired dogs. They say it helps with radiculitis. - even though it injects itself, people endure it for the sake of their health. But no one tries to spin the hair of foxes, raccoons or nutria, although their fur is warm and the pile is long and fluffy. Because it is not suitable for yarn.

Each hair has several layers. The topmost one consists of thin scales that overlap each other, like tiles on the roof of a house. The second layer is also built from keratinized cells, but spindle-shaped. Inside there is a third layer - porous, filled with air. It is he who provides the beauty of luxurious amazing furs. And human hair. If it weren’t for him, our curls would stand up like that weightless fluff from which, in fact, woolen thread is spun. It is this - the absence of an inner layer - that distinguishes animal hair suitable for spinning from unsuitable hair.

Each hair has natural bends - a kind of spiral with memory. Squeeze, twist as you like - once free, the hair immediately returns to its shape. This elasticity makes wool products voluminous, soft, fluffy and at the same time very practical to wear.

The unique structure of wool fibers is one of the main reasons for the appearance of felt boots and felt hats. With repeated creasing, twisting, and felting, the notches on the scales firmly cling to each other, the fibers come together and intertwine, forming felt. The softest felt - felt - is made from rabbit fluff. The wool of Angora goats (mohair) has scales that protrude slightly, their edges are slightly jagged, so it cannot be felted. This is what keeps real mohair items from pilling.

Wool raw materials are also considered to be the wool and fluff of other animals: goat, rabbit, alpaca, llama, camel, yak, hare, horse, cow, deer, dog.

Animals are sheared with special scissors and clippers in almost a whole, unbroken layer, which is called fleece. But to obtain wool fiber, the wool of other animals is also used: camel, goat, white fluffy rabbit, llama. The length of wool fibers is from 2 to 45 cm. The color of undyed fiber can be white, gray, red, black.

The following main types of wool are distinguished:

Cashmere (WS)

CASHMERE is the finest down (undercoat) of the high-mountain cashmere goat, which lives in the Tibet region and in the Kashmir province between India and Pakistan. Cashmere goats are also bred in Australia, New Zealand and Scotland.

Cashmere is an exquisite, chic, trendy, sophisticated and rightfully the most expensive material. It is no coincidence that it is called “royal yarn”, “wool diamond” or “precious thread”.

Cashmere raw material consists of threads that are only 13-19 microns thick (human hair is 50 microns), so touching cashmere creates a feeling of splendor. Cashmere is so delicate that any shade in which it is dyed looks as if through a slight haze, very pleasant to the eye.

Another reason for the popularity and high cost of cashmere is its exceptional softness, lightness, ability to retain heat and the absence of allergic reactions to it.

Alpaca (WP)

ALPACA is a type of llama. It lives in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude of 4000-5000m. in extreme conditions (bright sun, cold wind, sudden temperature changes).

Alpaca is a rare animal, its wool is expensive. Unlike sheep, alpacas are sheared once a year and only 3-3.5 kg of wool are obtained from one animal.

Alpaca wool has exceptional properties:

• it is light, soft, homogeneous and silky, maintaining a unique silky shine for the entire service life of the product;
• very warm (7 times warmer than sheep), with high thermoregulatory properties (it is warm in the cold and not hot in the warm);
• durable (3 times stronger than sheepskin), not subject to rolling, falling or jamming;
• resistant to contamination and does not cause allergic reactions;
• unlike the scaly and therefore prickly fibers of sheep wool, alpaca fibers are smooth and comfortable to the touch;
• it has the largest range of natural colors (22 shades: from black, gray, burgundy, brown, cream to white).

No other type of wool has such qualities. All of these properties create a feeling of unique aesthetic and physical comfort for owners of alpaca wool products.

Angora (WA)

ANGORA is the down of Angora rabbits.

Once upon a time, China, in response to Turkey’s inflated prices for the sought-after wool of Angora goats, produced a softer and cheaper yarn called “Angora”. As it turned out, it was the fluff of wild rabbits called Angora. Under these conditions, the Turks called the wool of Angora goats “mohair,” which means “chosen” in Arabic. Subsequently, Angora rabbits began to be bred in Europe and the USA.

Angora rabbits are the most adorable of rabbits, reminiscent of a soft toy come to life. Currently, five breeds of Angora rabbits are commercially bred in the world: English, French, German, Giant and Satin. They differ in size and weight (2.5-5.5 kg), length of down fibers, thickness of guard hair, color, volume of wool produced annually (0.4-1.3 kg).

Angora wool is exceptionally soft, very warm and fluffy, with a characteristic delicate pile. Products made from Angora wool create unique comfort and are therefore very popular and in demand. However, Angora wool also has its drawbacks: weak fixation of rabbit fluff in the yarn can cause abrasion of the fabric; the need to protect the angora from excessive wetting and clean it only chemically. However, products made from high-quality angora can last for more than one year.

Merino wool

MERINO WOOL (MERINOS) is wool taken from the withers of a Merino sheep. Merinos, a breed of fine-wool sheep, whose homeland is considered to be Western Asia. Subsequently, they spread to Western Europe, North America and Australia.

Merino wool is uniform and consists of very fine (13.5-23 microns) and soft downy fibers (23-35 microns in coarse breeds). It is long (annual coat length 6-8 cm), white, warm, and has excellent thermostatic properties. Due to natural curls, it is elastic. It is important that it does not irritate the skin.

Camel's wool

CAMEL WOOL (CAMEL) is the downy undercoat of the non-working Bactrian camel (Bactrian), living in Central and East Asia. The most valuable wool is the Mongolian Bactrian.

The camel's coat consists of outer coarse hair (25-100 microns) and inner soft fluff (17-21 microns), accounting for 80-85% of the volume. This is what is called “camel hair”. Once a year, 4-9 kg of it is collected (or combed) from one camel, sorted by color and composition, after which the finest and softest fluff is sent for fabric production. To make high-quality fabrics, the lightest and finest down of young camels (up to a year) is usually used.

Camel wool is light (twice lighter than sheep), soft and silky, but at the same time, the most durable and elastic. It is practical to wear, resistant to contamination and self-cleaning. It is the warmest and at the same time an excellent thermal insulator, maintaining a constant body temperature in various conditions. It protects well from moisture, and is also able to absorb and quickly evaporate it, leaving the body dry. You will never sweat in clothes made of camel wool. In addition, it does not cause allergies and is able to relieve static tension.

Camel wool has unique healing and health properties. Since ancient times, it has served as a cure for many diseases (more than 40). Its dry heat and the organic substances it contains have a beneficial effect on the skin, muscles and joints, improve blood circulation, promote vasodilation, activate metabolism and restoration processes in tissues. Colds, osteochondrosis, radiculitis, rheumatism, excess weight - these are only a small part of the ailments that camel hair can protect and relieve.

Camel down cannot be treated with chemicals, including bleaches and dyes, so camel wool fabrics are produced in natural colors (14 colors: white, cream, beige, sand, reddish brown, dark brown, etc. .). This serves as an additional guarantee that these fabrics are environmentally friendly. Camel wool is exclusively natural, healing and environmentally friendly. Thanks to its properties, it has been a universal material for many years, giving people comfort and health.

MOHAIR is the wool of Angora goats that live in Turkey (Angora province), South Africa and the USA. Moreover, more than 60% of the world's mohair is produced in South Africa.

Mohair is a luxurious natural fiber. This is one of the warmest and most durable natural materials, while being exceptionally light and silky. Its natural shine is stable and durable, it does not disappear after dyeing. No other wool has such a magnificent long pile with a stable and long-lasting natural shine.

Mohair comes in three main types:

• The wool of a young goat up to 6 months old (Kid Mohair), obtained during the first shearing. This is a thin (23-27 microns) and soft fiber 100-150 mm long. Kid Mohair of the highest selected quality is called Super Kid - the thinnest and most delicate fiber, silky and luxurious to the touch.
• The wool of a kid up to 2 years old (Goating Mohair), obtained after the second haircut. It is also soft and thin.
• The wool of adult goats (Adult Mohair), it is thicker (30 microns) and coarser than the others.
• Luxury yarn is made from the first two types of mohair. Mohair from adult goats is used, in particular, in the production of outerwear.

LAMA (LAMA) - as well as Alpaca, comes from Peru. It has been used for a long time as a pack animal, so today there are llamas with both thin, elastic hair and coarse hair, which requires selection of animals before shearing or combing.

Llama wool is distinguished by its lightness and softness, its ability to perfectly retain heat (thermal capacity) and provide comfort over a wide range of temperatures (thermostaticity). It does not cause allergic reactions, is able to repel water and, unlike other types of wool, regulate its humidity in a range convenient for humans.

Everyone knows that any wool warms well. Wool fibers are long, thin and curly, so there is a lot of air between them, which warms up, but does not stagnate when circulating inside. In addition, wool can absorb moisture (about a third of its weight). Wool fibers are more resilient than synthetic fibers. After stretching, they return to their original position. Wool loses its elasticity when washed in too hot water, which causes it to mat and become lumpy.

Wool is a natural, environmentally friendly material; it is not so flammable and less electrified than synthetics.

The easiest way to determine what fiber a purchased fabric is made from is to use a combustion test. Natural fibers burn and char, turning into ash.

To recognize fibers, you can use the table "Properties of fibers"

No.		Fiber	Character of combustion	Action of solutions
				HNO 3 conc.	NaOH, 10% solution
1	Cotton		Burns quickly, smell of burnt paper. After burning, gray ash remains	Dissolves	Swells
2	Wool		Burns slowly, smells of burnt feathers. After burning, a black ball remains, grinding into powder.	Turns yellow	Dissolves
3	Capron		Melts, forming a hard shiny ball of dark color, spreading an unpleasant odor	Dissolves to form a colorless solution	Does not dissolve

The label “natural wool” is allowed to be used only if the wool is obtained from a living, healthy animal and contains no more than 7% other fibers. The marking “pure natural wool” is applied to the product if the fabric or yarn contains no more than 0.3% of other fibers. The label "100% wool", "pure wool" or simply "wool" can also appear on low-quality wool or on regenerated wool obtained by processing wool scraps.

CARE of wool products.

Wool fabrics retain heat very well, get dirty relatively little and wrinkle little. Modern woolen fabrics are divided into two categories: wool and wool blend. The first contains 90% wool thread, and the second 20-90% wool and lavsan, nylon or viscose. (If the content of synthetic fibers exceeds 50%, then shine and pilling appear on the fabric). The addition of lavsan reduces the wrinkleability of the fabric.

The most important information can be found on the product label: symbols indicate the features of washing (hand or machine and at what temperature), cleaning, drying and ironing.

Useful tips

1. Wool items should only be washed by hand using mild wool detergents. Many people wash wool sweaters with shampoo. When washing, wool products should not be rubbed or twisted. Wool does not like long soaking. The washed product is not wrung out, but gently blotted, wrapped in a terry towel. To avoid shrinkage, the difference in water temperature between washing and rinsing should be minimal.
2. When drying, a wool product should not be hung up - it may become deformed. When wet, woolen items are laid out on a flat surface, with a terry towel placed on top if possible.
3. Iron wool products only through a damp cloth.
4. It is recommended to dry clean high-quality wool products.
5. Woolen items can be rinsed with the addition of 1 tbsp. spoons of wine vinegar.
6. Yellowed wool will regain its color if it is kept for a day in a bucket of water with sliced ​​lemon.
7. You can try to remove blood stains on fur with an aspirin tablet dissolved in a small amount of water.
8. It is recommended to dry dirt stains and then remove them with a dry brush.
9. Folds and creases on woolen and mixed fabrics are effectively smoothed out when ironing through a cloth moistened with a soapy solution with the addition of vinegar.
10. It is recommended to iron shiny areas on woolen fabric through a cloth soaked in a weak solution of table vinegar.

Health properties of wool

The healing properties of animal wool have long been used by people in complex treatment and prevention:

• diseases of the musculoskeletal system (sciatica, osteochondrosis, sciatica)
• diseases of the genitourinary system (urolithiasis, nephritis, prostatitis, inflammation of the appendages)

A belt-corset made of camel wool is indispensable for heavy physical activity, when working in the cold, in conditions of high humidity. It provides reliable protection for the lumbar region from injury. Of particular note is camel hair. The camel hair pile is hollow inside, which provides more complete thermal insulation.

The therapeutic effect of wool is due to:

• presence of active substances in wool
• warming effect
• local irritant effect.

As a result, electrostatic tension is removed from the surface of the skin, sore spots are protected from cooling, blood flow and lymph flow in the damaged area increases, which leads to reduced pain, reduced swelling, and increased mobility of the joints of the lumbosacral spine.

A woolen belt is worn with the wool inside on both the naked body and underwear.

So, we examined the structural features of wool fibers from the point of view of their properties, studied their effect on acids and alkalis, learned to recognize fibers by combustion products, got acquainted with the beneficial properties of wool and the rules for caring for products made from it.

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