DIY folding chaise lounge drawings. Making a chaise longue for a summer house with your own hands: instructions and drawings

Very nice after a hard time working day relax on fresh air. To make your stay as comfortable as possible, you can place special sun loungers on the site - sun loungers.

They should be comfortable and fit well into the overall design of your garden. Currently, many retail chains and online stores offer a huge range of country sun loungers, but it’s much nicer to make them yourself.

In this article we will provide detailed guide on the construction of wooden and fabric sun loungers, we will tell you about ways to protect them from moisture and pests.

Types of sun loungers

Before you start making a sun lounger, you should consider the main types of country loungers. There are quite a lot of them, let’s focus on the most popular:

Wooden sun loungers. Wood is one of the most environmentally friendly materials, it is absolutely safe for human health. You can find wooden sun loungers on sale different forms and designs: from reclining backrests to full-fledged loungers that follow the curves of the human body. The disadvantages of such sun loungers are the rigidity of the material and the rather labor-intensive movement of the sun loungers around the site;
Plastic sun loungers. If you choose this option for yourself, then it will be much easier to purchase a ready-made chaise lounge and, if desired, decorate it to your liking. The advantages of plastic sun loungers are relatively low cost, ease of care and mobility. Plastic is enough lightweight material and, moreover, is not afraid of moisture;
Sun loungers made from pallets. Pallets or pallets are stands designed for moving various loads. Most often, pallets are made from boards. From used pallets you can make enough comfortable sun lounger;
Fabric sun loungers. Loungers of this type are very convenient to store and move. The basis of a fabric chaise lounge is a folding wooden or metal carcass with a seat sewn into it. The only disadvantage of such a chaise lounge is the fragility of the fabric.

Of course, these are not all types of sun loungers; there are also sun loungers in the form, models made from wicker branches, and even sun loungers for cats and dogs. The choice depends only on your preferences. Next, we will focus on the process of making a wooden and frame lounger.

Making a wooden sun lounger

Materials and tools

We will need following materials and tools:

wooden slabs, the thickness of which is 20 mm;
timber 40x40 mm for the frame;
boards for covering the frame, 2.5 cm wide;
jigsaw and screwdriver;
4 corners for fastening boards;
self-tapping screws

How to make a sun lounger out of wood

Let's consider the main stages of assembling a wooden lounger:

1. When starting production, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future chaise lounge. For convenience, you can make a drawing of a sun lounger or find a ready-made one on the Internet. Most often, the design has a size of 60x200 cm;
2. The next step will be making the frame. To do this, you need to make 4 sidewalls from the bars: 2 long, 200 cm long and two shorter - 60 cm, respectively. To fasten the sidewalls we will need mounting angles;
3. The outer part of the frame is covered with a board, the width of which is 2.5 cm;
4. We attach 4 legs to the long sidewalls, departing 8 cm from the edges of the structure. To make the legs, 10 cm long beams are used. They should be attached to the frame using self-tapping screws;

When the frame is completely ready, we begin assembling the lattice - the main part of the lounger. From prepared wooden slabs use a jigsaw to cut boards 60x10 cm wide;
The finished boards are attached with self-tapping screws to the chaise lounge frame. Do not forget to leave a distance between the boards of 1-2.5 cm so that the lattice of the lounger has a neat and aesthetic appearance;
If you want to assemble a chaise lounge with an adjustable back, then the grille should be divided into two parts. One of them will act as a lounger, and the other as a headboard. We install both parts on the connecting boards. It is best to fasten the grille elements using door hinges;
In order for the headboard to be fixed in a certain position, a transverse bar is attached to the inner edge of the frame. A support stand for the headboard is attached to it with self-tapping screws (it is better to purchase a ready-made stand at a hardware store).

The chaise longue is ready; you should sand all the boards and cover them with drying oil or a special coating to protect them from moisture.

Making a chaise lounge from fabric

Materials and tools

To build a frame chaise lounge from fabric material, you must have the following available:

Rectangular boards 30x60 cm thick (two boards 1200 mm long, two 1000 mm long and two 600 mm long);
Round slats 2 cm thick (one plank should have a length of 700 mm, two 650 and two 550 mm);
A piece of strong fabric measuring 200x60 cm;
Bolts and nuts 8 mm;
Sandpaper

Stages of work

Let's consider the installation of a frame lounger in stages:

1. In order for the chaise lounge to fold easily, three frames must be assembled from prepared and cut slats. Frame A is 120x65 cm, frame B is 100x60 cm and frame B is 70x60 cm. Holes should be made in the longitudinal slats at a distance of 75 and 45 cm. In frame B it is necessary to make 2-4 cutouts, at a distance of 6-10 cm, to adjust the angle of the lounger. Detailed diagram frame manufacturing is shown in the figure;
2. To assemble the sun lounger frame, frames A and B should be fastened to each other using screws that are inserted into the drilled holes on the slats. Frames A and B are fastened in the same way;
3. After making the frame, the seat of the future lounger is cut out and sewn. To determine the appropriate length of material, the fabric is applied to the lounger in the folded position. The fabric should be in a slightly stretched position, but there is no need to apply any effort;

The edges of the material must be processed and hemmed to increase its wear resistance;
We attach the fabric to the round slats, which are located on frames A and B. You need to wrap the slats in fabric and secure them with small nails. You can make loops on the prepared fabric and simply put them on the slats.

As you can see, a folding chaise longue is also quite easy to assemble yourself.

How to treat a finished sun lounger

To make the sun lounger last longer, you can use the following techniques material processing, both during production and during operation:

Special impregnations and antiseptics for wood will help protect wooden sun loungers from the negative effects of the external environment (moisture, rot, harmful insects). Wood materials are best processed before installing the structure;
Varnish, drying oil, paint. These coatings will also help extend the life of wooden sun loungers. It is best to coat the product with any of these products immediately after production;
Water-repellent impregnations for fabrics. Will help increase the wear resistance of fabric products and preserve bright colors. The effectiveness of such impregnations lasts for 2-4 weeks.

Where to buy a ready-made sun lounger

Currently, there are no problems with purchasing ready-made sun loungers. You can find them in various furniture showrooms and online stores. There are both budget options, as well as original designer models of outdoor sun loungers.

The cost will depend on the size and materials of manufacture:

Prices for wooden sun loungers vary from 6,000 to 15,000 rubles;
Plastic sun loungers will cost you less, from 1,500 to 9,000 rubles;
They do not differ high cost and folding frame sun loungers, they will cost you approximately 1350-9500 rubles.

How to do it inexpensively wooden chaise lounge with your own hands, watch in this video.

When arranging a place to relax near a private house, it is impossible to do without a sunbed. This is where the ability to make a comfortable lounge chair with your own hands will come in handy. It is a folding lounge chair on which you can sit in a reclining position.

Sun loungers come in metal, plastic and wood. Often these materials are combined with strong textile inserts, or complemented with light pads in the form of pillows and mattresses.

When you decide to make a chaise longue for your dacha with your own hands, choose wood as the material of manufacture. It's easy to use. A completely wooden lounger will be reliable, strong, and will last you for a long time. Detailed description how you can make a sunbed with your own hands, diagrams, design drawings and photos will help you avoid problems at work.

Lounge chair for relaxing in the garden or by the pool

On such a chaise longue for a summer residence, it is convenient to sit in the shade of plants while reading a book or take a place in a sunny meadow to get a beautiful summer tan. Despite the fact that this is a very simple design, the lounger can be installed in three positions: completely horizontal or with two options for raising the backrest. Moreover, for lifting one of the most simple designs. But we know what simpler mechanism, the less susceptible it is to breakdowns.

Even an inexperienced craftsman can make such a chaise lounge with his own hands. He will have convenient parameters even for an adult tall man: width – 60 cm, length – 215 cm.

Materials and tools

The material from which we will make the lounge chair will be pine beams and boards. Their dimensions, along with a list of tools and fasteners, are presented in the list:

3 bars 4000x100x50 mm;
4 boards 4000x80x25 mm;
2 studs for attaching the back to the frame;
drill with drills;
self-tapping screws;
sandpaper;
wood putty;
paint (color of your choice);
wood glue to strengthen fixed joints;
roulette;
square;
marker;
saw or power saw.

Description of work

Before starting work, carefully examine similar drawings to understand the logic of subsequent actions.

First of all, we assemble the frame from the timber. We take 2 parts of 2150 mm each and the same number of 500 mm each. We make connections using a drill using self-tapping screws. To increase reliability, pre-coat the joints with glue.
Let's start working with the stationary part of the surface. We cut a board with dimensions 4000x80x25 mm with a saw into 60 cm pieces. In total, 13 such parts need to be made.
Leaving centimeter gaps between the boards (60 cm long), we fasten them to the frame with self-tapping screws. We control the angle of connection of the planks at 90 degrees.
Let's start installing the legs of the chaise lounge. For greater stability, the legs in the seat area should be made double. For them, we take 4 bars 35 cm long. We glue them in pairs, then fasten them to the base with glue and self-tapping screws. Any excess adhesive should be wiped off immediately. This will help in the future to avoid problems with processing these areas of wood.
On the side of the headboard we also attach single bars-legs 35 cm long. Then we attach second bars to them, which are 20 cm shorter than the first ones. We fasten them so that the lower edge of the parts coincides (as shown in the figure).

Let's start creating the back of the chaise lounge. The frame of this part will be assembled from pine beams measuring 100x50 mm. Prepare 2 parts of 880 mm and 3 parts of 390 for the back frame.

The dimensions of the backrest base are chosen so that it can fit inside the main part of the chaise longue (with small gaps for free movement).

Back covering. If you want to give the product a more attractive look, attach the trim strips in the direction of the length of the frame. In this case, round the top edge of each board on both sides. Maintain a distance of 10 mm between the slats.
To secure the backrest to the frame so that it can move freely, you need to prepare the holes. Measure 70-80 mm from the edge last board seats. At the indicated distance, use a drill to make holes that pass through the frame of the backrest and chaise lounge. Place a pin in them on each side.
The mechanism for raising and fixing the moving part is based on placing bars in special recesses that will not allow the backrest to fall down. The first selections should be made on both sides of the main frame of the sun lounger, retreating 7-8 cm from the hairpin. The dimensions of the recess should be 10 cm wide and 5 cm deep. We make the second recesses at a distance of 20 cm from the first, 5 cm deep and 5 cm wide.

If you place the first support bar, 60 cm long, horizontally in the first recess, the back of the chaise lounge will lock into the “chair” position. The person sitting on the chair will be able to sit comfortably. To change the level of raising the backrest, you should move the first block onto the shortened legs, and insert the second support block (60 cm) vertically into the second recess. You can fully unfold the chaise longue by removing the second bar and lowering the backrest. In this case, the small frame will stand on the first block placed on the shortened components of the legs.

Finally, start finishing the chaise lounge. Use putty to smooth out any uneven surfaces and hide the screws. After drying sandpaper sand corners and surfaces so that there are no sharp parts, burrs or roughness. Cover wooden product stain, this will protect the material from harmful influences. Paint the lounge chair the color of your choice.

The garden chaise lounge for the dacha is ready. You can equip it with a picturesque corner of your garden plot and enjoy a pleasant holiday.

Compact sun lounger: comfort wherever you want

A folding chaise longue, of course, cannot be called a sun lounger; it is more like an armchair. But the product has a number of other advantages. The design is very simple, so making it yourself will not be difficult.

The chaise longue is light in weight and compact, so you can easily move it to a new place. And if you show diligence in your work and care when choosing materials, the product will serve you for a long time. personal plot dachas for more than one year.

What do you need to make a folding lounge chair?

Before starting work, prepare:

For the back frame: 2 parts – 1219x38x19 mm, 1 – 610x38x19, 1 – 648x38x19, 1 – 610x64x19.
For the seat frame: 2 parts – 1118x38x19 mm, 4 – 603x38x19, one – 565x38x19 mm, one – 565x64x19 mm.
To support the back: 2 parts – 381x38x19 mm, wooden dowel with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 648.
2 pieces of thick fabric, 1372x578 mm each.
2 wooden dowels with a diameter of 12 mm, length - 559.
4 bolts with nuts 50x6 mm.
12 washers.
Screws 50x4 mm.
Glue.

Work sequence

The joints must be additionally glued. After pressing the parts, immediately remove excess glue.

Consider in detail the drawings and diagrams with the dimensions of the chaise lounge. They will help you understand the principle of its folding.
Drill pilot holes, then countersink them for screws.
Assemble the frame for the back of the chaise lounge. Attach the bottom bar 50 mm from the bottom edge. Leave a distance of 10 mm between the 610x64x19 mm strip and the top piece to secure the fabric.

Assemble the upper part of the seat frame in the same way as the backrest. First bottom bar attach 203 mm from the bottom edge of the side strip. We fasten the next 3 boards with a gap of 13 mm from the previous one.
We connect the frames of the seat and backrest by tightening them with bolts and installing washers under the bolt heads. We also place washers between the frame posts.
We use bolts and washers to secure the support strips for the backrest.
We place the round dowel on the glue in the drilled hole of the planks without gaps.

It's time to make a fabric seat. Place 2 pieces of fabric together right sides inward, sew, retreating 60 mm from the edge. On one side we leave a section of about 100 mm unsewn.
We turn the workpiece inside out and sew the sides along the length.
We lay cavities (for wooden dowels) along the width on both sides and stitch them.
We thread the dowels into long holes fabrics.
After finishing finishing work With wooden base(grinding, coating protective agent, painting) place the seat in place.

A folding chaise lounge for your dacha is ready. Drawings and images helped create a practical, comfortable, lightweight chair for outdoor recreation.

What is rest? open air and there is no need to repeat what a chaise longue means in this context. But for a person who knows at least a little tinkering, it may be easier to design a chaise longue with his own hands than to buy a ready-made one. And it's not just about money. Available retail outlets may simply not have something that you just want to lie down and relax in. Yes, there is, of course, online trading. But what comes to you may not be the same ergonomically as it looked in the picture. In general, furniture and recreational items (not to mention medical) should not be purchased in absentia. Unless the seller guarantees a 100% refund of payment without any explanation from the buyer. Okay, science fiction should be written by science fiction writers, but we should get closer to the point.

Products, similar topics We will not consider what is in the photo below. For one simple reason - their production requires production conditions. And at home it will hardly be cheaper than buying ready-made ones. Even if you skilled craftsman and own everything necessary tool. But a chaise longue made in a day (maximum - over a weekend) from scrap materials on a balcony or in a garage can be no less comfortable, look no worse, and will probably cost no more than a third of the price of a similar purchased one. This is what we will do. Including steam rooms and children's rooms.

Soft or hard?

The first question that needs to be decided is whether, so to speak, the landing surface of the chaise lounge will be hard or soft. On the one hand, this is determined by the purpose and nature of use of the product; on the other hand, the choice of soft/hard determines the choice design sun lounger. Its bed/seat can be either soft fabric or hard made of wooden planks. A soft bed, if done correctly, absorbs well, removes and, like a wick, evaporates grease; a soft chaise longue is cheaper, it is easier to make (especially foldable), it takes up less space in storage. But it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to fully relax in a soft sun lounger for more than 2-3 hours; why - see below. In general, in terms of the totality of its qualities, it is soft - the optimal chaise longue for a summer house (you won’t spend the day there anyway) and as a portable one, for example. for fishing, also see below.

A hard chaise lounge is more difficult to make, the materials for it will cost more, and you will need a fairly large room to store it in winter. But a hard chaise lounge can be extremely ergonomic: you can lie on it all day or have a quick and good rest after hard work. Provided that it is covered with a terry sheet or a blanket made of upholstery fabrics for cabinet furniture - flock, microfiber, etc. Otherwise, on a hot day you will have to get up, peeling your sweaty back off the sticky wood, which is not very pleasant.

Note: a hybrid of both, possessing almost all of them positive qualities, but bulky - a chaise lounge on a tubular frame, see fig. But structurally and ergonomically, this product is closer to hammocks and rocking chairs.

Varieties

A chaise longue is, roughly speaking, either a trestle bed with an adjustable headrest, or a chair with also adjustable camber of the seat and back (with one exception, see below). The chaise longue-bed is carried out first. hard; chaise lounge chair – soft.

The main types of design of sun loungers are shown in the figure:

A simple chaise longue-bed (item 1) is extremely economical: its production may require only 2-3 hours of time and materials for 100-200 rubles. (depending on which ones you already have at hand), see for example. video:

Video: homemade chaise lounge for 100 rubles

For ease of use and transportation, armrests, footrests, shelves, pos. 2. This significantly increases the cost and complicates its production, but does not improve ergonomics at all: you lie on this for an hour and a half, you have to get up - and you groan, your lower back ache. However, there is a very simple trick that can greatly improve the ergonomics of a simple chaise longue, see below.

The anatomical chaise lounge-bed (item 3) allows you to quickly, within half an hour or an hour, restore strength after hard work or take a whole day sunbath, not ossified. But structurally it is the most complex, material- and labor-intensive. An “anatomical type” chaise longue with a broken rather than smoothly profiled bed (item 4) is not much simpler in design, but in terms of ergonomics it is worse than even a simple straight one; The angular dip under the “fifth point” is especially noticeable.

Of the soft sun loungers, the most common is the universal (garden) one, pos. 5. In fact, a soft beach lounger, pos. 6, but to make it more difficult: you need not only to increase the maximum camber of the back and seat, but also to add stages of its adjustment, see fig. on right.

A fishing chair is made almost exclusively soft (item 7 in the previous figure), keeping in mind its weight and dimensions and ease of transportation. A fishing lounge chair, firstly, has a smaller seat depth and a higher back height. Secondly, their camber and slopes, especially if the lounge chair is homemade, are adjusted to suit you once and for all. The reason - it doesn’t bite, it doesn’t bite, suddenly - it’s gone! And it seems that the chub (or bream) is leading, which need to be hooked very skillfully and carefully. And from the garden or beach lounger, having become soft, you will not rise quickly, smoothly and silently.

Chaise lounge or chair?

The so-called garden chairs are very ergonomic and at the same time quite simple in design. Adirondack type, or simply Adirondack chairs (see picture on the right); they were invented by the inhabitants of the Adirondack Mountains North America. You can sit in an Adirondack chair for a day, admiring the landscape (the views there are worth it, just look at Rockwell Kent’s painting “Adirondack Autumn”), and get out of it fresh and invigorated.

Note: an Adirondack garden chair, even without a footrest, can completely replace a chaise lounge. On its armrests, vessels with drinks and dishes with snacks are quite conveniently placed. An amateur craftsman can make an Adirondack chair with his own hands mediocre. Therefore, although there are other publications about garden chairs, here we also provide drawings of the Adirondack garden chair made of wood:

Materials

Next we will look at how a wooden chaise lounge is made. Sun loungers with a metal base are much more labor intensive. The frame (frame) of a chaise longue made of ordinary steel under normal operating conditions quickly corrodes despite any painting, and profiles made of corrosion-resistant metals will cost more than very high-quality ones wooden blanks, see below. The only exception is a fishing chair (mass and size!); it is better to do it on a frame made of aluminum pipes, see eg. video:

Video: homemade deck chair for fishing

But the choice of material for a wooden sun lounger is also not easy. And the question immediately arises: solid wood or glued plywood? The first one is more solid, but it is more difficult to select material for it. A chaise longue made of glued plywood is more labor-intensive, but more technologically advanced, especially in the case of an anatomical chaise lounge; the material for it will cost less than high-quality wood.

Array

Ordinary timber for a deck chair is of little use - it is not resistant enough to regular alternating loads (houses and barns are not dragged from place to place, folded up and hidden for the winter). In terms of mechanical and chemical resistance, larch would be suitable for a sun lounger, but its wood, like that of other conifers, quickly fades and turns gray from solar ultraviolet radiation.

Among domestic hardwoods, oak and beech are suitable, provided they are impregnated 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE). The last name is not entirely clear, and the first is a bit long, so now EPE is going on sale under the name “Ecogrunt”. This is the same substance, suitable for impregnating anything even slightly porous - from concrete to soft wood.

Note: walnut and hornbeam, also quite resistant to mechanics, chemistry and light, are unsuitable for outdoor furniture, because easily affected by pests.

Hevea

There would be no need to talk about tropical species like teak due to their high cost and the fact that in the Russian Federation they are supplied almost exclusively in products. However, recently, Hevea wood has appeared in sufficient quantities on the wood market. This Brazilian tree is known as the best rubber plant, but armies of Seringero suicide bombers no longer go into the wilds of the Amazon for “wild” latex. Hevea is grown on plantations in the humid tropics around the world, and when the trees become depleted from regular pruning, they are cut down and sold as timber; partially - dissolved into ornamental preparations.

Note: Why are these rubber miners - seringeros - suicide bombers? The Amazon is a veritable green hell, infested with deadly diseases and creatures. Here's an example - during World War II, when the need for natural rubber increased sharply, Ford Motor Co. alone. sent 30 thousand Seringeros to the Amazon jungle. Of these, according to official American data, 283 people survived (less than 1%). But, by the way, this hell is the main supplier of oxygen to the Earth’s atmosphere. All other tropical forests, together with the taiga, provide almost three times less, and the ocean, as it turns out, consumes almost all of its oxygen itself.

The advantages of Hevea as an ornamental tree are undeniable:

There is only one drawback of Hevea wood: its trees on plantations are depleted when they are young, at the age of 5-10 years. Therefore, Hevea does not enter the market as long construction pieces. But for the manufacture of a sun lounger this is not essential.

Note: if you go to furniture stores, you will find that 10,000 rubles. for a living room chair made of hevea this is not quite expensive. But then it turns out that a dining table made from the same set, which uses 10-15 times more wood, costs 18,000 rubles. Yeah! We are looking on the Internet to see if Hevea blanks are sold. It turns out yes, and the prices are reasonable.

Plywood

Here, too, there is a choice: bakelized birch, moisture-resistant (aviation grade)? It is very expensive, does not bend well and often cracks when bent. Construction pine? It fades and turns gray in the light, like any coniferous tree, and is also not very cheap. Packaging made from waste wood (alder, aspen, poplar)? It’s cheap, it bends, figuratively speaking, even if you knit it with knots. Is it fragile, not resistant to mechanics, chemicals, or pests? After some additional processing, which is quite doable at home (see below), it will be quite suitable for a chaise lounge. Especially for anatomical ones, the design of which has curved parts, and concentrated loads are much smaller in magnitude than in soft ones.

Impregnation and sawing

It is obvious that packaging plywood needs to be impregnated for strengthening and moisture resistance. It is not difficult to guess that the best impregnation in this case is the same Eco-soil (EPO): cheap, safe (you can work in a living room with children), and quite effective for a sun lounger. Impregnate with a plaster brush 2-3 times on each side with an interval of 15-30 minutes and dry for a day (at temperatures above 25 degrees and humidity up to 60%, you can dry overnight).

But the first secret is that you need to soak the whole sheet or part of it intended for the sun lounger. Yes, before sawing into parts. Why? Anyone who has ever worked with a jigsaw knows how much sawdust it produces and how it scatters + the pungent smell of burnt wood. Impregnated plywood generates much less dust and smell when sawed. It’s easier with a circular saw, but not everyone has one, it doesn’t make a curved cut, and all the same - the less sawdust, the better.

About the jigsaw

If you are just planning to purchase a jigsaw (which will come in handy in many cases), then, when you pick it up, do not cut straight away, practice on scraps and waste. A jigsaw is no less capricious than a manual one. The first cuts may generally go to the sides, then they will become slightly wavy. A laser marker is of no use - it gets lost literally in the first centimeters of a cut, even if you have a “cool” Bosch or Makita. But once you get your hands on your own, exactly your own, tool, your friends won’t believe that this was done by hand, and not on a cutting machine.

Plywood

The plywood parts will gain full moisture resistance after the impregnation has completely dried, after 2-3 days. But for the necessary strength they need to be glued together from strips of plywood. The best glue, again in this case, is PVA assembly glue. It is sold in construction stores under the names “Structural”, “Reinforced”, “PVA D2”. Its important advantage is comparatively, for example. with liquid nails and other nitro-based adhesives - non-dried PVA is washed off completely with water. If it gets on your clothes, wash it under the tap; on the carpet - wipe several times with a wet swab or use a washing vacuum cleaner.

Mounting PVA has a somewhat gelatinous consistency and takes a long time to dry to full strength, the same 2-3 days. According to conventional technology, the parts to be glued are kept until the glue becomes tack-free (this is approximately 20 minutes), and then under pressure for at least a day. If you take into account that gluing, say, beams 24 mm thick will require 4 strips of plywood 6 mm thick, and the home craftsman doesn’t have a lot of clamps and weights for weighting, then making a sun lounger can take a long time until you have to think about insulation, boxes/ screens for radiators, etc.

Not just nails

All the parts for a plywood chaise longue can be re-glued in one day, and the product itself can be assembled the next day if you use metal fasteners to hold the glued parts together with compression. But the heads of the usual self-tapping screws will either stick out in plain sight, or they will need to be puttied and painted over. Over time, they will rust, but the main thing is that a large number of thick ribbed fasteners will inevitably weaken the parts.

These problems will not arise if you use the so-called. finishing nails. They are also sold in construction stores, and if they say “No!” or they will look at you in surprise, explain: “Yes, these are the ones that are used to nail platbands to MDF doors! Nails for platbands!

“Cash” nails are made of bronze (these are more expensive) or high-quality stainless steel; their heads and necks are shaped somewhat differently than those of conventional construction ones. Therefore, finishing nails very rarely bend and do not prick the material, even if the hammer is in the hands of a “full teapot”. And one more thing - finishing nails are anodized in different colors, so you can choose ones that are invisible on your material (see figure). Finishing nails are available in different sizes; the most popular ones are from 12x0.6 to 25x1, which is just suitable for assembling plywood parts using plywood.

Gluing

Gluing plywood parts from strips using finishing nails is done as follows. way (see also fig.):

Let's say we need a beam 25 mm thick - we prepare 4 strips of plywood 6 mm thick, the missing 1 mm will be provided by layers of glue;
Lubricate with glue and put 3 strips together (on the left in the figure), there is no need to keep it until it sticks;
We fasten with finishing nails 15x0.7 (0.8) in a snake with a pitch of 200-300 mm, but at least 3 attachment points per part. If our beam is up to 600 mm long, only 3 nails will be needed, arranged in the form of an extended letter Λ, in the center in the figure;
Similarly, attach the last strip on the opposite side. We place the attachment points in a mirror image to the original one, i.e. the nail heads form an extended V;
Using a wet swab, remove the squeezed-out glue residues;
We put the assembled workpiece aside to dry and make the next one.

Note: The workpiece assembled in this way is, in principle, suitable for final processing immediately, only wet glue stains the tool.

What if it’s crooked?

Bent plywood parts are also assembled in a similar way, but they cannot be over-dried after impregnation: for 1-2 days, plywood impregnated with EPE remains quite plastic, but then it becomes stiffer and more fragile than “raw” plywood. The technology for manufacturing bent parts of a deck chair deck depends on how this deck itself is assembled: framed transversely or longitudinally in place, see below. The longitudinal flooring is quickly assembled directly on the finished product frame; transverse along the frame is much more labor-intensive.

The strips of longitudinal flooring are nailed one after another directly to the supporting beams of the frame with the same finishing nails. The finished product is dried for a day, sanded, varnished or painted - and it’s ready. To assemble the parts (lamellas) of the transverse flooring, you need to prepare a plaz - a flat wooden panel of a suitable size. Then:

On the plaza, the contours (profiles) of the flooring lamellas are marked. Because The lamellas cannot be removed from the plaza until the glue has completely dried; it is advisable to knock off as many profiles as needed at once, i.e. the plaza needs to be large enough;
The plaza is covered with transparent PE film;
Wooden blocks - rats (this is the technical term) - are nailed along the lines of the lamella profiles. The rats are placed on one side of the profile line in those places where the frame support beams will be under the slats. The height of the rat is equal to the width of the lamella; thickness – the thickness of the beam.
The first strip of plywood is simply nailed sticking to the rats with finishing nails;
Subsequent strips are lubricated with glue before attaching;
After 2-3 days (in this case, you need to wait until the glue is at least 85% cured), the blanks, along with the rats, are torn off from the plaza;
The rats are knocked down or (better) carefully torn off with a sharp nail puller;
The oblique/bent ends of the nails are cut off, and the straight ends are used to attach the slats to the beams.

Making a soft chaise longue

The easiest thing to do for a summer cottage, fishing, and perhaps a free beach nearby is a soft lounge chair. Its fabric bed is made of tarpaulin or other durable, resistant cotton fabric. Linen canvas is of little use - it is durable, but rather rough, but at the same time slippery, which can result in abrasions on the body. Furniture flock and microfiber are excellent, but quite expensive.

Typical dimensions of a universal (see above) soft chaise lounge are given in the figure:

But the design shown there has a highlight: no need for plumbing work and simplified carpentry. The parts of the seat-back camber adjuster (highlighted in bluish-gray on the right in the figure) are wooden because the oak (or beech) locking rod does not rest on holes at points, as usual, but on slats along the entire length; the rest of the metal fasteners are ready-made purchased (M6 bolts with press-washer heads and nuts for them). By arranging the adjuster racks differently or simply filling them more, you can achieve any limit of camber adjustment and the number of its stages from those indicated above. Most of the structural parts are made of 40x25 timber, except for the headrest and popliteal ties - they are fastened with pairs of furniture confirming screws and therefore are made of boards 60x30 or 80x40 (in section).

Headrest

The Achilles heel of soft sun loungers is the head and popliteal support-ties. If the kneecap doesn’t really interfere, then the headrest is very felt by the neck or the back of the head. Therefore, the headrest of a soft chaise longue is almost always made double (which, by the way, increases the lateral rigidity of the structure) and is wrapped in the fabric of the bed, see fig. change at least every season.

Note: drawings of a soft garden lounge chair of a classic design are shown in the figure:

No adjustment

A soft garden chaise longue for one person or several of similar height, corpulence and build can be quickly made non-adjustable from scrap materials. An example of this kind of design is shown in the video:

Video: homemade sun lounger for the dacha

One of the commentators on this video states that this lounge chair is prone to transverse parallelogram folding. Why he called the horizontal transverse axis the z axis, he knows better. But in the described design there are enough cross-links of rigidity and it is possible to identify at least 3 virtual boxes that prevent parallelogram folding. For those who have not studied construction mechanics, just look at any panel or monolithic house. Where are the oblique/diagonal slabs, beams, columns? But it's worth it. And if it collapses from excessive influence from the outside, then it is not in a parallelogram.

Let's move on to the anatomical

Making a hard anatomical chaise lounge is much more difficult than a soft one, and you cannot carry/carry it with you, but relaxing in it will be much more pleasant and fulfilling. First, let's determine the purpose of the product. For relaxation after hard work and/or elderly people, you need a chaise longue with a low back and a deep dip under the pelvic area, pos. And in Fig. For the beach and general relaxation, a chaise lounge with a raised back and a small smooth protrusion under the lower back is more suitable. In the first case, it is necessary to ensure the drainage of blood from loaded (possibly sick) legs; in the second - to prevent it from flowing to the legs. Of course, the best would be a transformable chaise longue, which allows you to implement one or another anatomical scheme.

Note: Americans of pre-liberal times lifted their feet on the table at every opportunity, and it was not their rudeness at all. At that time, only managers of at least middle management worked sitting in a chair, and the rest, like wolves, were fed by their feet.

Topchan

Let's start with something simple, without any physiological and anatomical subtleties. You can relax quite decently on an ordinary beach couch, but is it possible to somehow improve it without complicating it or making it more expensive?

Drawings of a simple beach lounge chair with an adjustable headboard are shown on the left in the figure, and on the right there - with the same improvement that makes the bed more ergonomic. Specifically, with slightly profiled sidewalls. In this case, it is better to use a regular construction board on the drawers, 2-3 times impregnated with eco-soil; flooring - from slats 30x30 or 40x40. This chaise lounge can either be painted or varnished with acrylic varnish for exterior use in 3-4 layers; in this case, the wood will not fade in 4-6 years.

Frame or beams?

Frame in Russian frame without any Hi-Tech. Frame structures are now commonly called structures with a supporting frame and non-functional cladding; again in Russian, frame.

Frame load-bearing circuits (see, for example, on the left in the figure) are widely used in the production of furniture, incl. anatomical sun loungers in the economy and mid-price segment, thanks to minimal material consumption; their labor intensity in automated production is also low. Flooring on a frame frame (claims regarding tautology - to the authors of the term) can be laid from longitudinal or transverse lamellas. But for an amateur working in a garage or on a balcony, the frame design is clearly a bit complicated.

If you look closely at the photos of expensive/elite anatomical sun loungers, it turns out that most of them are made according to a beam design with a working longitudinal covering of the flooring (on the right in the figure); The transverse beams are laid on the frames without insertion and are attached to them with self-tapping screws. The point here is not only and not so much in the “coolness of the money” - relaxing on a sun lounger with a longitudinal flooring is much more complete, because The ribs of the lamellas are not felt by the body even through a single-layer terry blanket. In addition, the lamellas can be made of one layer of 6 mm plywood and are mounted plastically immediately after impregnation without plaza directly in place, see above. But the flooring of the bed of a beamed sun lounger can only be longitudinal, because its casing is working.

Note: in fact, the only case when the bed of an anatomical chaise longue is possible only from transverse slats is a quick-assembled/dismountable chaise lounge like the one in Fig. on the right or shown in the video below:

Video: anatomical chaise lounge chair

Design examples

Furniture makers, both amateurs and professionals, rarely apply the canons meticulously and scrupulously. Any product made by human hands requires a creative approach, and in practical designs of sun loungers, the basic principles of their construction are applied with certain combinations and modifications.

For example, a chaise lounge, the drawings of which are given in Fig., can be classified as partially transformable. The profile of its drawer (on the right in the figure) is chosen in such a way that, depending on the inclination of the bed, this chaise lounge is suitable for both deep rest and mindless relaxation. The power scheme is combined: a small number of transverse beams (not support ones) work together with the flooring of the bed made of thin boards (preferably plywood slats). As a result, the design turns out to be technologically simple and low material-intensive.

On the trail. rice. - an example of another approach to the same problem: a rocking chair (the side of the cell of the section drawing is 100 mm; the flooring is made of slats 30x40). Here the “transformation mechanism” is the vacationer himself: leaning back or leaning forward, he chooses (perhaps unconsciously) the most comfortable position. While swaying, you can combine both types of relaxation. If the lounge chair is under a tree, then the psychological relaxation from contemplating the fluttering leaves against the sky will enhance and complement the physiological one.

For elderly and/or people who are very tired from physical labor, a chaise longue is more suitable - a recumbent rocking chair with a canopy (see figure). If your body aches, your legs are filled with lead, and, especially, the romantic illusions of youth are behind you, the flickering before your eyes and the bright light in them only irritate, but when the fatigue subsides, the canopy canopy can be rolled up “to suit your mood.”

Drawings of a mobile couple's lounge chair with a folding canopy

A massive structure that can be rolled into a secluded corner, a durable elastic bed woven from a rope (preferably a propylene cross-lay); In such a chaise lounge, relaxation for two can be very, very active. And over time, its natural result will appeal to the children's anatomical chaise longue (side profile in the figure below; cage 10x10 cm, dimensions also in cm).

Probably everyone who has their own dacha or private house will want to relax in their yard in the summer or spring. This will help country chaise longue (lounger), lying on which you can relax your tired body after gardening work or get a golden tan under the warm sun. The design of the lounger allows you to sit comfortably half-sitting or half-lying. Such a chaise lounge can also be useful as a guest sleeping place; you just need to cover it with a bed.

The author suggests making one like this do-it-yourself sun lounger, the model is simple and does not require special skills in its manufacture.
We will make the lounger from wood, it is durable, hardy and natural. Such a country lounger is quite easy to move. You can store it simply by placing it upright against the wall of a house or barn.

So, let's prepare necessary materials:
- wooden boards 400x2.5x8 centimeters – 4 pcs.;
- wooden blocks 400x5x10 centimeters - 3 pcs.;
- mounting pins – 2 pcs.;
- wood putty for sealing seams;
- varnish or paint for processing the deck chair.

To make a country chaise longue we will need one like this set of tools:
- saw (hacksaw);
- jigsaw;
- drill;
- a screwdriver or a shaped screwdriver;
- square, tape measure, marker, sandpaper.
The first step is to make a strong frame for the sun lounger. For such a frame, we cut out four parts from timber - two long longitudinal ones of 215 centimeters each and two short transverse ones of 50 centimeters each.

Next, we assemble the seat - we cut the board into uniform bars 60 centimeters long, you will need 13 of them in total. The cut bars are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws, leaving 1 centimeter gaps between the pieces. All subsequent parts are also fastened with self-tapping screws.
We also make legs for a country chaise lounge from bars. Single legs 35 centimeters long are attached to the headboard, and double legs are attached to the legs for greater reliability of the product.

After this, we make a frame for the back of the product - we twist the frame from two bars of 88 centimeters each and three of 39 centimeters each. The frame should fit into the main structure of the lounger with small gaps. We fix the boards on the frame for the backrest perpendicular to the seat boards, rounding the ends for aesthetics using a jigsaw.

We drill through holes at the base of the sun lounger at a distance of 9 centimeters from the edge of the seat, and attach the backrest structure to the base of the sun lounger. The backrest is fixed to the frame on both sides with pins; it should rise and fall freely.

In the frame of the lounger under the backrest, you need to cut 2 grooves on both sides into which the support bars will be inserted. The backrest will take two different positions. We cut the first pair of grooves, each 5x10 cm, 9 centimeters from the stud. We make the second pair of grooves 5x5 centimeters at a distance of 20 centimeters from the first.

Now, in order to change the position of the backrest, you need to use a support beam 60 cm long. The beam is initially inserted horizontally into the first groove. In order to make a reclining position, the beam is removed from there and inserted vertically into the second groove.

Surely, when you hear the word “chaise lounge”, your imagination conjures up a pleasant picture of relaxing in the sun. But sometimes we overpay in stores for a “comfortable” seat. In this article we will tell you how to make a sun lounger with your own hands. Take a look at this photo of a chaise lounge - and you won’t be able to tell that this is home work and not factory work. Making a sun lounger is not as difficult a task as it might seem at first glance.

Types of sun loungers

Before you get started, you need to understand what kind of lounge chair you need. Depending on the type of seat structure and frame, we can say that there are several types of homemade sun loungers.

Chaise lounge with monolithic frame

All parts are connected to each other and inseparable. This type is very reliable and can withstand even heavy weights. However, there are also some disadvantages: you can’t change the angle of the backrest, and you won’t be able to fold such a chaise longue compactly.

Monolithic chairs with special inserts can fit perfectly into any interior. However, inserts make the structure less reliable.

If you want the lounge chair to freely change its position, then you need a portable design. It is also ideal for traveling - it can easily be folded into the trunk of a car.

Blueprints

One of the most important components for the successful creation of this seat is the drawings for making the chaise lounge. You should select competent drawings where all the small details are written. If you are new to this business, it is recommended to choose not very complex designs so that the chaise lounge lasts as long as possible and you do not cause damage to your health.

Wooden chaise lounge

What is needed to make such a chaise lounge? What materials will we need?

Glued wood plate 20 mm wide
For the base we will need some boards and beams
Tools needed for manufacturing:
Drills, preferably different sizes
Four rollers
Sheets for sanding our parts
Components to further prevent destruction:
Wood varnish
Dye

Detailed instructions for a do-it-yourself sun lounger

First, determine the size of your lounge chair. As a rule, the standard size is 60*190 centimeters. However, you can choose any other option that will suit your dimensions.

After determining the dimensions, you can safely begin making the seat. We will assemble the base from the prepared wooden beams. The beams must be connected to each other using metal corners to assemble the bed.

Depending on the size you choose, you should prepare the legs for the chaise lounge. As a rule, their size varies from five to ten centimeters in height. At a short distance from the edge of the base you need to attach the legs. Use long screws for fastening.

In the center of all legs, using screws measuring 3-5 centimeters, it is attached along a roller. Then prepare the slats. Use a jigsaw to cut out planks measuring 8*60 centimeters. Next, screw these strips to the base with a distance of 1-2 centimeters between them.

After you have assembled the frame, treat the chaise longue with special products to preserve your crafted item for many years. Once the products have dried, coat the chaise lounge with varnish or paint.

Chaise lounge with fabric

In addition to the usual wooden chaise lounge, you can make a seat with fabric. To produce it, we will also need wooden blocks, durable fabric, fastening materials, a pneumatic drill, glue and sandpaper.

The best fabric option in this case is denim or canvas, as they do not fade in the sun, and they are also not afraid of wet weather. When choosing such fabrics, your chaise lounge will retain its presentable appearance for many years.

Durability

To keep your chaise longue in working condition longer, you should treat it with antiseptics and impregnations intended for wood during and after its manufacture. This protects your lounge chair from various bugs, moisture and rapid destruction.