For people associated with carpentry activities, the milling table is an indispensable tool. It will help to improve the quality of work performed, their effectiveness.
The industry offers such tables in a factory version, but their cost is not suitable for everyone. We propose to consider a do-it-yourself milling table without expensive components.
Definition of a milling table, its design
A device with which you can perform: grooves in the workpiece, grooves, to make spike joints, to process the edges of products, is called a milling table. It is inconvenient to use a router separately, the master will have to concentrate on the workpiece and at the same time on processing. A do-it-yourself milling table facilitates the work process; it can be mounted on a workbench or made for a special design.
Important! When carrying out work on the manufacture of a specialized table, it must be remembered that the router is installed from below, free space must be allocated for it. The stationary part of any table is the bed; it is a sturdy frame with a table top.
Material for the frame milling table can be:
- Wooden bar.
- Metal squares.
- Plates: MDF, chipboard.
The requirement for the frame is the creation of stability for the table top and the rigidity of the structure. When a milling table is made with your own hands, the overall parameters of the bed are determined from the materials that require processing.
How to make a bed for a milling machine
Despite the simplicity of making a frame for a tabletop, a homemade milling machine must for proper operation Meet requirements:
The table includes mounting plate, it is needed to mount the router.
How to make a mounting plate correctly
Place the mounting plate where the router base is attached. For its manufacture, a material is selected that meets the criteria:
- Strength.
- Thickness - the thinner the better.
Experts recommend using sheet metal for self-production of the mounting plate of a milling machine, you can use fiberglass or textolite. Overall dimensions of rectangular shape, thickness within from 4 millimeters to 8 millimeters... In the center of the plate, you need to make a hole that matches the diameter of the hole on the foot of the hand router.
The router is equipped with a plastic strip that is attached to the threaded holes on the base, these holes are used to attach it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, they must be made in the base of the router. Another way of attaching the router is offered, it is metal staples-springs. Mounting plate attaches to the table top at the corners.
DIY milling table assembly instructions
To assemble the clamping device, rollers or a ball bearing of the required diameter are used. It is fixed in a holding device, which is rigidly fixed at the required distance from the plane of the table top.
This device provides tight pressing of the overall workpiece to the plane of the table top when it passes under the roller. This simple addition increases the accuracy of the work carried out and improves labor safety.
You can assemble a functional milling table with your own hands when the master has information about the electric drive that will be used in the work. Consider the power parameter to select an electric drive:
Important! Experts recommend before assembling the milling machine to determine the power of the milling cutter, it should not be less than 2 kW... This power enables the craftsman to work with any wood. It is recommended to choose models of milling cutters with speed control. The rotational speed of the router is very important to get an even cut on the workpiece. If this parameter is high, the cut will be clean.
Safe use of the milling table
When the milling table is assembled and the electric drive is installed, do not rush to immediately check it in operation, make sure that the work has been done correctly. What experts recommend to do for safe work on the milling table:
- It is advisable to install a protective screen on the tabletop, it can be of your own design or an industrial design.
- It is imperative to check for the presence of an emergency stop button for electrical equipment; it must be in the shape of a "fungus" and be located in the area where the master is located, so that you can press it with the body of the body.
- Equip the work area with light illumination.
- When the milling table is used for frequent milling cutter changes for the job, it is recommended to equip it with an automatic cutter lifting device.
In equipping a homemade milling table no restrictions, there is only one requirement for them: an increase in the safety and efficiency of the work carried out.
A milling table will make your work easier and help to increase the accuracy of workpieces.
You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for a hand router with your own hands, applying the skills of working with wood. We have prepared for you a fairly detailed step-by-step instruction on how to make a table.The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and execute it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a hand mill.
Decide on the size of the work surface, starting from the dimensions of the workpieces to be processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop while incorporating modernization options. Work on it and refine it a little at a time.
Make a countertop
The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate placed on the joinery gantries or between the pedestals. The device costs pennies and is manufactured in a few hours, but it will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood 19–25 mm thick. A plastic-covered panel is better suited, which provides less frictional resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation.
Set the exact right angle of the cut on the circular saw, cut the parts to size and grind the ends.
Cutting scheme: 1 - base plate; 2 - stop base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - kerchief (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness of the sheet material, which often deviates from the standard. Make corrections to the drawings, eliminating problems in the assembly of the structure.
Remove the plastic pad from the router base.
Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.
Position the overlay so that the router's main adjusters are then closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the lining with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling the holes for the fastening screws.
Determine the center position for the outsole with equidistant screws.
For a base with asymmetrically spaced screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the edge of the sole.
Draw a line with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:
- S = D / 2 - (D - H)
Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.
Mark the locations of the mounting screws.
Drill the mounting holes and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark the semi-circular cutouts at the base and front wall of the stop.
Saw out the bends with a jigsaw. Make frequent auxiliary cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, just short of reaching the scribe line. Then move the file a little closer to the contour line - the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the canvas. Sand the cutout with a sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.
Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the worktop.
Glue all the blanks and fasten them with additional screws. Select the screws longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the plate.
1 - side plate for fastening with clamps on the gantry; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - the base of the stop
Fix the table on the trestle with clamps, fix the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.
Make a solid base
The worktop can be installed on a frame that is low enough to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on the rack, and is fixed on the workbench for work. If you milling a lot and there is room in your workshop, add base stands to your worktop for a complete machine.
Saw out the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for a table height of 820 mm, or modify them so that the level of the table top is on par with other equipment.
Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - inner panel; 3 - back panel; 4 - base
Place the countertop with the back facing up. Install the side panels in sequence and fasten them with screws, pre-drilling the pilot holes. Secure the base, fold the frame with the front side down, align the square corners and install the two rear panels.
Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the body using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads at least 20 mm from the edges.
1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - inner rack; 5 - back panel
Use the free space in the drawer units to solve the problem of storing tools and supplies.
Embed the mounting plate
Get more overhang by placing the tool on a 4–6 mm thick duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate plate.
Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from a sheet, put it on a workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it face up in the middle. With a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template. Remove the sole, make a recess for the caps with a countersink or a large drill.
Screw the insert onto the switched off router, insert an 8mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and make a hole at the mark with a hole saw.
Place the plate on the countertop and outline the outline. Draw and cut a cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through the drilled hole. Trim the ends with a file and sand them.
Fix the thin planks around the marked contour with clamps.
Clamp a copy cutter with a bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Route in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the router micrometer and complete the final pass.
Drill the through holes for the screws and expand them on the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill for the self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts on the epoxy, aligning with the screwed in bolts.
Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, place it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink from the front. Attach the part to the base of the router, insert the tool into the table top and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the table top, if necessary, compensate for any errors with washers.
Improve the emphasis
For a faster and more convenient machine set-up, modify the parallel side stop and complement the machine with a pivot stop to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum T-rails into the surface of the plate. Use a router or a circular saw with a slotted disc to make cutouts in the worktop.
Lightly round off the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, process them with a countersink. Insert the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the countersunk screws.
Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, pick up the hex head bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.
Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop to secure the hold-downs, auxiliary pads and guards.
Cut out a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, fix it on the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter nipple and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the milling table.
Add a guard made of plywood trim and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.
To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them with tangents, and make cuts with a jigsaw.
Make homemade clamps and clamps required for milling small items.
The press-comb can be made from maple wood by selecting a straight grain area. Perform the slots between the ridges on a circular machine:
- Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
- Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
- Make a cut.
- Push the workpiece back with the hand pusher.
- Flip the board 180 °, saw through on the other side.
- Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
- Move the stop again and make cuts throughout the workpiece.
Secure the clips to the rail with bolts and wing nuts.
1 - stopper; 2 - clamp-comb; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - a branch pipe for a vacuum cleaner
Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat with oil.
1 - a drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for an emphasis
Let's summarize the project
Materials needed:
- Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
- Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
- Several dozen screws.
- Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
- Carpentry and epoxy glue.
- M6 bolts with nuts.
The ability to take your time and think over every step came in handy, to accurately mark and cut out the blanks, or the desire to learn this. The result is a solid milling table for little money. In the future, you should think about equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.
I made this table from 18 mm. plywood. Its thickness is enough to make the structure very strong. To strengthen the structural elements, I used a metal corner with a section of 40X40 mm.
The table top measures 800X500 mm. A hole is cut in the center to fit the size of the router's foot. The sides are attached to the tabletop at the corners with self-tapping screws. From the bottom, the sidewalls are also connected with corners and self-tapping screws. 4 holes of 10 mm are drilled in the worktop. and hammer-in nuts are installed for fastening the dies. A plug and a switch are made in the right sidewall for easy starting of the router. The "Start" button on the router itself is locked.
The router base is screwed onto a 2mm thick steel plate. and a size of 200X200 mm. A recess is made in the tabletop and the plate is placed flush on top, attached to the tabletop with self-tapping screws .. A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is cut out in the center of the plate.
An automobile jack is used to raise and lower the router. It is attached to the base of the table with self-tapping screws. The handle has been replaced with a homemade flywheel for smoother adjustment. The jack is not attached to the router in any way.
The guide fence is also made of plywood. Assembled with "Moment-joiner" glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws. In the middle of the line, there is a box with a hole for attaching the vacuum cleaner pipe. Adjustment grooves are cut on the sides of the ruler. 10 mm bolts are inserted into the tabletop, the ruler is attached to the bolts with eye nuts.
The combs are cut from fir and serve to press the workpiece more tightly to the guide. The grooves are cut in the comb for moving along the tabletop. Bolts with bushings are used to fix the combs to the table top.
To prevent the workpiece from moving up and down, a special spring stop is made of plywood. It attaches to the guide fence by the wing nuts.
That's the whole construction. And you can see in more detail about this table in my film.
The milling cutter is the most frequently used tool of a self-respecting craftsman. Thanks to him, you can make things we know with incredible ease. There are operations in carpentry that cannot be performed without this tool.
The milling cutter consists of a motor, a collet for attaching replaceable cutters, a speed controller, a vertical bar. In the lineup of any manufacturer, there are many models with different capacities. A hand router is a fairly versatile electrical device that has a wide potential and capabilities. It becomes possible to improve the router by placing it on a horizontal surface that will allow you to machine fairly large workpieces with minimal effort.
Purpose of the milling table
Installing a router in a table or workbench can achieve good results in the manufacture of many products. In the production of furniture, this is an irreplaceable inventory. Since this process often requires trimming the edge of the canvases, making shaped grooves and grooves.
These tables can be found in major tool stores. The cost of such equipment directly depends on the functionality and material from which they are made. But even with the most minimal set of functions, but with high-quality coverage, the price for such a product is quite high. For a simple amateur who does for his own pleasure in the garage, the price is unaffordable. The way out is a homemade router table.
Before you start purchasing material for the future table, you should decide on its functionality. Let's consider the main capabilities of a hand-held milling cutter and its machine version.
Hand Router Operations
- Curly or straight-line machining of ends or edges of workpieces.
- Cutting holes of various shapes for installing furniture fittings.
- Removing a quarter of the thickness.
- Grinding and cutting of workpieces.
- Drilling.
- Finishing of the cut site.
- Removing grooves of splines, grooves.
Milling table operations
A do-it-yourself router table allows you to perform operations such as:
- parallel finishing cut;
- facing surfaces and long edges;
- sampling a quarter;
- finishing of edges.
From the list it becomes clear that all the same operations are performed on the milling table as with a conventional manual milling cutter, but only with greater accuracy and quality. In addition, the dimensions of the blanks are already several times larger.
Choosing a hand router
For a tiny workshop, buying a separate router is an unaffordable luxury. Hence, a milling table will be required with a quick-detachable router design. This means that it will work in two versions, both on the table and in manual mode. To do this, you need a quality power tool.
There are two types of hand router:
- submersible;
- trimming.
Their names speak of their functionality. Since the milling cutter is highly specialized, its further consideration will not be of interest to the reader.
In terms of power, an electric tool is classified into:
- low power - from 500 to 1100 watts;
- average power - from 1200 to 1800 watts;
- high power - from 1900 to 2500 watts.
Professionals advise using low-power milling cutters for processing small workpieces, this allows you to achieve maximum convenience in work. In this case, you will have to make passes in several approaches, removing a small thickness, layer by layer. However, these routers do not lend themselves to installation on a special table. For these purposes, milling cutters with a capacity of about 2000 watts are suitable.
Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following capabilities of the tool:
- the maximum depth of lowering the rack;
- smooth start;
- the presence of adjustment of the spindle rotation speed;
- dynamic brake;
- maintaining the number of revolutions under load.
- chip removal system.
All of these parameters determine the quality of the hand router, which will be useful in both manual mode and machine mode.
Milling table device
Any milling table consists of the following elements:
- directly from the router itself;
- countertops;
- parallel stop;
- chip removal systems;
- boxes for storing spare parts and various cutters;
- horizontal clamp.
Depending on the functional tasks of the milling table, it can be made in the following versions:
- an attached tabletop with a router;
- stationary tabletop;
- stationary tabletop with parallel emphasis;
- stationary worktop with parallel stop, router lift, cutter cross feed.
Materials (edit)
How to make a router table? What should a person who decides on this matter have in his arsenal? First, we need a drawing of a table for a hand router. It is not difficult to find it. Therefore, it is quite possible to make a table for a hand router. There are also many detailed workshops and videos of local craftsmen showing off their creations. There are models that are so multifunctional that they combine, in addition to milling, drilling, grinding and cutting tables.
Almost any material is suitable for manufacturing. They mainly use sheets of chipboard, film faced plywood or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 8 millimeters. You will also need wood screws with a countersunk head, aluminum corners (furniture), PVA glue.
Assembly
Consider how to assemble the simplest do-it-yourself router table. Let's make it from film faced plywood. The size of the countertop is 400 millimeters wide and 400 millimeters long. A laminated board is perfect for a countertop. It has a number of advantages over plywood:
- wear-resistant surface;
- low cost;
- quick replacement.
However, we decided to make a table for a hand router from laminated plywood. We carefully cut it to the intended size. The legs will be made from the same material. It retreats from the edges by 20-30 centimeters and fasten the legs to the table top, pre-coat the joints with glue and make two or three holes for tightening the screws.
We make the following technological holes in the countertop:
- large round for the exit of the collet with a cutter;
- parallel groove for fastening the rail;
- you can make a small groove for attaching the ruler.
The rip fence can be made from the same materials as the worktop. The stop consists of two parts, the interface runs exactly in the center of the installed cutter. They must move independently of each other. To increase the milling possibilities, it is desirable that the rip fence has two degrees of freedom. That is, it could tilt relative to the tabletop, and rotate parallel to it. This will allow making products with complex shapes.
Among other things, a recess with a square-shaped cover is made on the reverse side of the parallel stop, a vacuum cleaner pipe is inserted into one end. As a rule, the chip removal system is made from two sides, one from above behind the stop, the second directly next to the mill collet.
This is the easiest table for a do-it-yourself router. In the future, you can modify and install an elevator for convenient adjustment of the cutter height and horizontal reach.
Additional accessories
Since the table-mounted hand router is an electrical tool, an external switch can be installed in the table for safety. This will allow you to conveniently and safely turn the device on and off when necessary. Here you can also install additional sockets for connecting a portable lamp or hand drill.
With sufficient free space, milling tables are made with dimensions of 1500 by 1500 millimeters and a height of one and a half meters. Complete workbenches are obtained. At the same time, pull-out shelves are made in them, in which it is convenient to store various cutters and a key for changing the spindle. The large table allows you to handle large sheets of plywood or other material so often used in furniture or doors. Such a table increases the accuracy of the processed parts and reduces the percentage of rejects in production.
Safety
It is worth remembering that tables for wood cutters are sources of increased danger. The frequency of rotation of the cutter reaches 25,000 rpm. Any awkward movement will lead to irreparable consequences. Hands should be kept at the maximum safe distance from the rotating head, the cutter should be changed when the machine is stopped and de-energized.
When working, you need to wear special glasses that will protect your eyes from small chips. The noise level during operation is quite high, and appropriate precautions should be taken. Keep children away from the router.
Hand milling cutters, due to their affordable price, are popular among home carpenters. However, working on a simple workbench according to the principle: a fixed workpiece, a movable tool, is inconvenient and dangerous.
The industry produces tables for carpentry work on which a plane, circular saw, or router can be installed.
The device is reliable and convenient, but its cost is comparable to that of a power tool. Therefore, many craftsmen make such workbenches with their own hands. Since the presence of the tool makes it possible to make a table for a router with high quality, such homemade products look and function no worse than factory ones.
The general design principle is as follows: a smooth table top is made of a hard material (so that it does not wear out so quickly), on which the base plate of the router is attached. The instrument itself is placed upside down. A guide for the workpiece to be processed is fixed on the working surface.
Bench-type workbench
The simplest design that does not require free space. It can be stored at home unassembled, and installed on any table if necessary to get work done. The advantage is compactness. Disadvantages: low stability, and restrictions on the size of the processed parts.
This is a complete workbench without legs. The dimensions allow processing any workpiece with high precision. At the same time, it is convenient to store the table in an upright position. However, an installation site is required to bring it into working order. The device cannot be installed on a regular table - a router suspended from below will interfere. Usually, the workbench is temporarily placed on a sliding table, or the table top is removed and the panel is installed on a frame with legs.
To save space, another option is suitable: the workbench is mounted on one side of the wall, folding supports are organized under it.
Separate router table
The design can combine several functions: a workbench, a chest of drawers for storing tools and materials, and the actual milling table.
The advantages are obvious: versatility, stability, work safety. There is only one drawback: a permanently allocated space is required. Therefore, this option is only suitable for a workshop; you cannot place a workbench on a loggia.
How to make a table for a router with your own hands?
As an example, consider a full-fledged workbench with a chest of drawers to accommodate your tooling. Of course, before starting work, you need to sketch a drawing (in accordance with the dimensions of your hand router), and make a list of materials:
- Planks or wooden blocks for making the frame.
- Chipboard or solid wood panels for side panels and drawers.
- Hardboard sheet (fiberboard), or thin plywood for partitions.
- Two sheets of plywood 18-25 mm thick, or a finished kitchen worktop.
- Screws, bolts, confirmation, steel corners for assembly.
- Measuring tool: tape measure, ruler, angle.
- PVA glue.
Woodworking tools: circular saw, drill, plane, wrenches, screwdrivers.
We are preparing the supporting structure of the bed. We coat all connections with glue before tightening the screws.
We assemble the bed on a flat surface. We check the geometry: everything should be parallel and perpendicular.
We install partitions (they will act as stiffeners), and we assemble a box for a router. The box is needed so that shavings and sawdust are not scattered around the room. In the future, the bell of a construction vacuum cleaner can be adapted to it to remove debris.
We set the main element - the work plane. It can be made from two sheets of plywood by gluing them together. To prevent vibrations, the table must be at least 5 cm thick.
You can use a ready-made kitchen surface (available from furniture stores). The main thing is that the top layer is strong and smooth.
On the table top, flush with the surface, a steel plate is installed to fix the base plate of the router. Also, it is advisable to embed profiles into the table to fix the guides.
It is advisable to fill all free niches with boxes in which equipment and fixtures for fixing workpieces will be stored. Some boxes are replaced by stands for cutters: holes are drilled from the board in the thick bottom from the board, and the cutters will not touch each other.
To ensure safety, it is advisable to install a protective cover in the work area, as on industrial models.
A cutter sticking out of the table is a serious danger. If your hand slips off the workpiece, you may be injured. Another way to ensure the safety of work is the foot switch-pedal. A simple scheme is assembled: an outlet is installed between the power cord of the electric router and the common network cable, which is turned off with a pedal. Approaching the workbench, you press the pedal - the motor turns on. After finishing work, or in an emergency, the foot is removed from the pedal and the router stops.
The finished table looks aesthetically pleasing, and allows you to competently organize the work area, even in a confined space.
Lift for hand router
In normal operation, the manual milling machine operator lowers the cutter shaft using the tool handles. It is about using the device without a machine. When the router is suspended upside down from the table top, the router is in the so-called park mode. A mechanism is required to raise the machine to its working position.
If there are several options:
- Fixing screw rod. Using the threaded rod, the required cutter penetration depth is set. It can be changed if necessary.
- Linkage mechanism. Allows you to more quickly change the height of the tool, even during operation. Expands the capabilities of the machine: in a sense, the milling cutter becomes three-dimensional.
- Helical trapezoid. Many craftsmen use an ordinary car jack as a lift. You raise the cutter exactly to the required height. It is convenient and the positioning is quite accurate.
The considered option includes all the nuances of making a table for a router. You can use the technique 100%, or adopt only the necessary technologies.