This article is a detailed instruction on how to build an unheated permanent garage for 1 car. Construction will conditionally be carried out next to the cottage, on a fenced plot.
To save costs, we will choose reinforced silicate brick with a thickness of 250 mm as a wall material.
Choosing the size of the future garage
When starting to build a garage with your own hands, you should decide on the size of the future building. Usually, the footage is determined with reference to the dimensions of a standard passenger car - 1.7-2 m by 3-4 m. At the same time, the space reserve should also be taken into account so that you can freely bypass the car from all sides, and the footage should allow the arrangement of racks, on which spare parts, wheels and canisters will be stored. That is, taking into account the above needs, the optimal size of the garage will be 4x6 meters, and its height - 2.5 m. The project takes into account the ability to change the car without rebuilding the garage for this. In one of the side walls we will design two meter-wide windows to provide natural light.
A schematically built do-it-yourself garage will look like this:
Determination of a place to build
When choosing a place where your future garage will be located, you should pay attention to some important points that will help simplify operation and protect you from problems with entering and leaving a car, opening garage doors, etc.
The place must be chosen as close as possible to the courtyard gate. At the same time, try to leave a distance of 4-5 meters between the garage and the gate so that the car can simply be left in the yard and that the opening of the gate is not blocked upon arrival;
The path from the entrance gate to the garage should be straight, without turns. This will make it easier to park in the yard and drive the car into the garage;
The distance from the garage to housing should ideally be 5-7 meters so that you can quickly get to the porch of the house during rain or snow;
When planning to build a garage with your own hands, and choosing a place for it, make sure that the future building is not located in a lowland, otherwise rainwater will drain there, which will lead to dampness and corrosion on the metal parts of the car;
House communications (electricity, sewage, gas pipeline) should not pass under the garage.
We bring to your attention the general plan of the site with the optimal placement of the garage in relation to the entrance gate to the courtyard and the cottage:
garage foundation
Before you build a garage, you need to lay a quality foundation for it. In our case, a strip foundation with a 300 mm wide tape will be considered. Since the garage will be low, the load of the walls transferred to the foundation will also be small (about 1.5 tons per 1 linear meter). To save consumables, you can equip a shallow foundation (depth - 60 cm) on a sand and gravel cushion 30 cm thick. A foundation cushion is necessary to properly distribute the pressure of the garage on the ground and prevent the floor from swelling in frost.
This is what our foundation will look like in a section:
The finished foundation should be 100 mm higher than the ground level, for which a plank formwork is laid. The sequence of work on arranging the foundation for a self-built garage is as follows:
The selected area is cleared of bushes, debris and other foreign objects;
The future garage is measured according to the site, and its axes are taken out in kind;
A trench is dug with even walls, 300 mm wide (hereinafter this soil will be used as a formwork for the future foundation). A plastic film is fixed along the garage walls so that water does not flow out of the concrete solution;
Sand and gravel preparation is laid in layers: every 100 mm they are compacted and watered;
The foundation is being concreted. For this, concrete of classes B15-B20 is used, which should be compacted by vibration;
When the strength of concrete reaches 70%, it is possible to lay waterproofing, consisting of 2 layers of roofing material (the entire perimeter of the foundation is covered).
Laying garage walls
If you decide to build a capital garage with your own hands, take the laying of walls, which is the most important stage of construction, especially seriously. As already mentioned, the walls of our garage are being built from reinforced silicate bricks 250 mm thick (one brick masonry). We will choose the brand of brick M-100, and we will lay it on the cement-sand mortar M-75.
To reinforce the walls, we use a wire mesh of the Vr-1 class, with a diameter of 3-5 mm (cell 50x50 mm). Reinforcement is necessary not only to give strength to the brickwork, but also to protect the garage from burglars entering it.
The first 4-5 rows of masonry are best laid out of clay bricks, thus creating a reliable and durable base for the future garage. For one square meter of a wall one brick thick, 100 pieces of bricks and 75 liters of mortar will be required.
Experts recommend inviting a professional bricklayer for this stage of work, if you have such an opportunity. Professional masonry ensures that no cracks will appear inside it in the future, and the walls themselves will be strictly vertical and laid in accordance with the dimensions of the garage according to the project.
If you still decide to completely build a garage yourself, be sure to use these tips:
The seams of the masonry must be tied up, for which the brick will need to be cut in half in some places;
Observe the width of the seams in 10-12 mm;
When the foundation is ready, a leveling layer of mortar will need to be laid around its perimeter so that the brick can be easily laid vertically. First, for this, it is necessary to strengthen the rails on both sides of the foundation in a strictly horizontal position - these rails will serve as formwork. The horizontal position of the rails is checked using a level. Then a solution is poured between the slats and gently leveled.
After that, in each of the four corners of the garage, you need to install the so-called "orders" - vertical wooden slats with divisions marked every 77 mm, showing the height of each row of bricks. Between the orders, a thread is pulled, which serves to check the horizontalness of the brickwork.
The masonry itself must be started from the corners of the garage, having built 10 corners - in this way, at each of the corners you will get a “beacon”, which will be easier to navigate.
Each brick must be moistened with water before laying, which will ensure better adhesion of the brick to the mortar;
Try to follow the external beauty and accuracy of the external seams facing the facade - it is better to lay the masonry here with jointing;
The top of the side walls assumes a slope (along the facade B in the figure), so that as a result, the roof is located under the slope, from which rainwater will easily drain. The difference between the extreme points is 300 mm;
You should also leave nests for laying roof beams. The size of these nests should be 200x200x150 mm, and their pitch should be 1 meter;
To block window and entrance spans, you need to use a factory-made reinforced concrete lintel or a metal lintel from two corners with dimensions of 100x100x7 mm;
To check the verticality and horizontality of the walls, use the level and plumb;
Arrange a hole in the back wall of the garage for natural ventilation. The hole should be closed with a louvre, and its size should be about 200x200 mm.
Garage floor and deck
Every car owner who wondered "how to build a garage" should take care of the quality of the floor of the building. The garage floor must withstand the load from the wheels of the car without any problems, while not settling or cracking. As mentioned above, the floor level should be located 100 mm above ground level. Most often, the floor in garages is made of cement or concrete. We will consider the arrangement of the floor of B-15 concrete with fine aggregate, 150 mm thick. Concrete is reinforced with A-1 reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm; reinforcement pitch - 200x200 mm. The floor of the garage should have a slight slope towards the gate to allow water to drain.
Before pouring the floor, the soil should be tamped and a crushed stone pillow 200 mm thick should be laid on it, the lower layer of which is best tamped into the ground. In order for the floor to be separated from the walls and lie freely on the ground, 50 mm thick foam is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Then a polyethylene film is laid, and on it - a reinforcing mesh with a preserved protective layer of at least 40 mm. After that, concrete is laid and vibrated along the grid. After 5-7 days, when the concrete has set, it is necessary to make a cement-sand screed 50 mm thick to level the floor surface.
A concrete pavement is made around the entire perimeter of the garage on the outside so that rainwater does not spoil the foundation. Sufficient blind area width - 500-700 mm. It is made of B-7.5 concrete laid on a sand cushion. A ramp is equipped on the facade with a gate - an inclined platform for convenient entry into the garage for cars, wheelchairs and prams. The width of the ramp, depending on the general relief, can be from 500 to 1200 mm.
We equip the garage roof
The most economical option for arranging the roof will be wooden beams with a section of 150x100 mm (beam pitch - 1 meter) and a profiled sheet. Common beam materials are spruce, pine or larch, and a garage beam roof looks like this:
Beams 4.3 meters long are laid in nests left in advance during laying. All beams are supported by walls 150 mm at each end.
The ends of the beams are wrapped with roofing felt or roofing felt so that moisture from the brickwork does not spoil the beam and does not cause decay. Beam ends do not close with roofing felt. The distance between the wall and the beam after laying is sealed with a cement mortar with fine gravel. It is necessary to leave a space of about 50 mm between the ends of the beams and the walls.
The roofing material is laid along the slope of the garage roof (the slope, as mentioned above, is arranged using different levels of masonry with a difference of 4 rows of bricks). Sheets of roofing felt are welded one on top of the other with a burner (overlap of sheets - 10-20 cm). Steel profiled sheets are laid on top, and the direction of the “waves” should go along the longer wall of the garage. The sheets are nailed, and in the places where they are connected, an overlap of 2-3 “waves” wide should be made.
At the end of the work, make visors (outlets) from corrugated board that extend 20-30 cm beyond the plane of the wall, which will help protect the walls of the garage from precipitation.
Window frames and garage doors
To equip window and door openings with high-quality windows and gates, it is better to contact the appropriate companies. Measure openings and contact several garage door and window installation companies in your area to compare prices. Be sure to discuss with the contractor the technology of installation of garage doors - whether it will be necessary to leave mortgages, or they will be fixed in place. In addition, consult about the choice of lock - mortise, overhead or hanging.
Garage finishing and finishing touches
In order for the brick wall to be protected more efficiently, it is necessary to carry out finishing work. The walls of the garage are plastered along the notch or mesh-"chain-link" with a cement-sand mortar. The plaster will level the surface of the walls and protect the brick from destructive mechanical influences.
As for the racks and shelves that you will need to store canisters, spare parts and wheels, you can buy them at a building supermarket or make them yourself from wood, having previously taken the necessary measurements. Of course, these works are not mandatory, but in the future, convenient shelves and racks will greatly facilitate your work in the garage.
Power for various appliances and lighting is usually diverted to the garage from a residential building.
Read other materials about the construction and repair of your own hands in our constantly updated section.
The garage is not only a "home" for the car. This is a place where you can have fun and even sleep if necessary. It is easy to make it with your own hands. We will consider the step-by-step process in detail right now.
Where does the construction of the garage begin?
Any construction begins with a project. It should display the following data:
- Type of garage (whether attached or freestanding)
- The purpose of the garage (how many cars will be inside, cabins)
- Building dimensions
- Roof data: area, angle of inclination, construction technology, roofing material, etc.
- Foundation type: strip, columnar or monolithic
- Type of facing material: siding, lining, etc.
- Garage scheme
- Wall material: foam blocks, brick, wood, iron structure sheathed with corrugated board or other material
Video on how to build a garage with your own hands
Foundation for a garage
Arrangement and installation of a garage
How to build a frame garage with your own hands
To bind to the construction site, you will need the following inventory:
- a skein of thick nylon cord;
- tape measure of the required length;
- several pegs;
- a small sledgehammer.
The easiest option for linking to the terrain is to add a garage to the outbuildings already built earlier. The solution of the problem in this case is reduced to a simple extension of the existing building line in accordance with the selected dimensions of the building.
The base of a one-story brick (cinder block) garage can be a simple rubble-concrete foundation of a tape type, during the preparation of which a trench dug in the ground is filled with broken stone (but). There are two ways to build such a foundation:
- Pieces of stones are laid into the trench in neat rows, each of which is then poured with a liquid cement-sand mortar.
- Reinforcement is laid in the dug trench, and then it is poured with concrete.
Since the foundation must have some elevation above the ground, it will be necessary to make a formwork, the height of which will correspond to the level of pouring the foundation for the garage.
The width of the trench under such a base usually does not exceed 60 cm, but basically it is 10–15 cm wider than the future wall. Its depth is determined by the expected depth of soil freezing in a given area.
When digging a trench, it must be taken into account that the soil should be sampled until dense layers of soil are reached, as well as that the walls of the trench must be even.
This video is about preparing the base for the garage:
On a dried foundation we lay a layer of waterproofing, which is usually used as a simple roofing material. If the garage door is already ready, then they need to be installed and fixed. For these purposes, you can use improvised material, for example, long logs, boards, or something else that fits in length. After the walls are erected, the struts, which play an auxiliary role, can be removed.
The accuracy of the installation of the garage door frame can be measured in the course of work using a plumb line and level. If necessary, its position can be slightly changed by placing pieces of metal plates under the corners of the structure.
Operations for laying a chain of blocks (or bricks) must be carried out according to the standard scheme, according to which the elements of each subsequent row overlap the joints of the previous one. The construction of walls should begin with the construction of corner beacons, between which a thin nylon cord is subsequently stretched. The remaining wall blocks are laid along the line of the cord, after which the beacons are again built up into several rows. We control the correct alignment of walls and corners using the same plumb line and level.
To build a garage floor, you can use a relatively inexpensive and reliable support structure made of metal I-beams with a working size of 100–120 mm. Such beams will allow you to close the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe building with a width of up to 6 m.
After laying the beams, you can proceed to their sheathing. To do this, thick boards (40–50 mm) are laid in dense rows along the lower brand of adjacent beams, which are then covered with a layer of roofing material. On top of the roofing material, we fill up the insulation (usually expanded clay or simple slag is used as a heater), and the level of the backfill should reach the cut line of the upper brand.
At the next stage of work, we apply a layer of cement screed 20–30 cm thick on top of the insulation, the quality of which depends largely on the reliability of the entire roofing.
If the roof is flat, then self-waterproofing of the garage roof is carried out by laying several layers of waterproof roll materials (roofing material, aquaizol or rubemax) on the prepared screed. In garage construction, the following techniques are most often used:
- stacking rolls by layer-by-layer fusing;
- applying the material with bituminous mastic.
For a gable roof, the same roofing materials are used as for finishing the roof of a house. You can get acquainted with them in more detail in the article devoted to this topic.
On the front and end parts of the roof, you will need to mount small visors that serve to protect the walls of the garage from rainwater flows. You can make similar visors from a 50 mm thick edged board, punched along the edge with another board. They are attached under the upper brand of the beam.
As insulation for walls, you can use standard boards made of foam or mineral wool.
From a metal profile
First of all, the lower part of the frame is made, which must be welded to the "mortgages" concreted in the foundation. If this moment is missed, then you will have to use anchors for fastening.
The next step will be the installation of vertical racks on the long sides of the garage with an interval of 1.5 m. Only after that you can proceed to fix the upper part of the frame.
To give the structure rigidity, it is necessary to weld corners in the spans, which are installed diagonally.
Profiled sheets are used for wall cladding. The same material is used for the roof. If you wish, you can cover the roof with metal tiles.
A metal garage has a significant drawback - it is cold in winter, and warms up like a stove in summer. However, the situation can be improved. Such a room can be insulated in various ways, it is only important to remember that heating will be required to work in such a room in winter.
In the video below, you can learn how to make your own garage doors:
From foam blocks
The foam block does not have a lot of weight, unlike brick. Therefore, it makes no sense to build a capital foundation under the walls from it. There are two options:
- Shallow foundation on a sand cushion.
- Light pile-strip foundation.
Moreover, if the soil at the construction site is not problematic, that is, not swampy and sandy, then there is also no point in spending money on a deep foundation. Therefore, it will be enough to deepen the foundation by 50–60 cm. A sand cushion of 20 cm is poured into the trench. A reinforcing cage should also be built. This is part of the work that is done before the concrete is poured.
If the soil is dense and does not crumble, then there is no point in constructing formwork in a trench. It will be required only above the elevation of the soil up to 30 cm.
As for the width of the foundation, it should be 300 mm wider than the thickness of the foam blocks themselves. This gap will compensate for the pressure of the frozen ground. The entire construction process is expressed in the successive steps outlined below:
- Site marking for future construction.
- Foundation laying.
- Installation of metal gates.
- Waterproofing.
- Construction of walls from foam blocks.
- Installation of a transverse concrete beam-lintel above the gates and windows, if any.
- If the roof is shed, then the walls are erected with a decrease in one direction.
- Organization of ventilation in the garage.
- Production of an armored belt around the entire perimeter.
- Installation of I-beams across the garage. The laying step is 800 mm, and the beam is brought out of the walls on both sides by 200 mm.
- To form the ceiling, grooved boards are laid on the lower edges of the beams.
- Laying waterproofing on a wooden base.
- Installation of roofing material.
For the construction of a garage from foam blocks, it is recommended to use blocks with a density of 600–800 kg / m 3. They belong to the category of structural and thermal insulation and are characterized by increased strength. If you purchase a material with a lower density, then it will be too fragile, and this is undesirable.
Usually foam blocks of such dimensions are used 200 × 300 × 600 mm. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the walls, blocks of 200 × 400 × 600 mm can be used. If it is necessary to increase the thickness of the walls, then masonry with the wide side down, its thickness is 300 or 400 mm.
Beginner masters usually use a cement-sand mortar for laying blocks. Professionals prefer perlite. Using this material, the effect of a "warm seam" is obtained. In price, perlite is inexpensive, however, it prevents the appearance of a cold bridge through the seams. After all, it is these places that are most vulnerable in such a building.
If you didn’t manage to buy perlite, then get a dry mix of “thermoshovs”.
If you managed to make the foundation relatively even, the first row should still be laid on the mortar. This will prevent the appearance of cracks from point loads, and the block, the solution up to 2 cm thick, will “find” its place.
Another feature of working with a foam block is its fragility. Therefore, even if you bought blocks with a high density, lay a reinforcing metal mesh every 2-3 rows. Also, ligation of the sutures is mandatory. The walls will not be monolithic and durable if there is no dressing with the adjacent row or at the corners.
When building a garage of two floors, for laying a reinforced concrete floor panel, fill in an armored belt with a thickness of 200 mm. This will be enough to protect fragile blocks from being crushed, and the whole structure as a whole will provide better strength.
To build a garage from cinder blocks, it is enough to make a foundation, 500 mm deep and up to 400 mm wide. The process of its pouring sequence is the same as for the foam block garage described above. When the concrete is dry, roofing material is necessarily laid, which will serve as a waterproofing. As for the erection of walls, there are no special sacraments here. The principle of operation is the same as bricklaying.
If desired, cinder block walls can be plastered, painted, sheathed with clapboard, insulated, etc. It all depends on financial capabilities and the prevailing climate in your area.
Scheme
Many townspeople try to go to summer cottages in the summer to relax, breathe fresh air, and at the same time work on the land. In addition to a garden house in a summer cottage, it is desirable to have a garage that accommodates not only a car, but also various garden tools, equipment, and power tools. Many summer residents use this room as a workshop, placing machines and other devices near the walls. As they say, there would be a garage, and a zealous owner will always find a use for it. You can build a garage in the country with your own hands from different materials: timber, bricks, foam blocks, cinder blocks, etc. When doing construction work on your own, it is possible to reduce the cost of the structure, saving a lot on paying for the services of a team of builders. A person with little experience in construction, and having free time, can cope with this task. The process will be greatly accelerated if you call a few friends for help.
The garage can be wooden, metal or stone. Metal garages are assembled very quickly from a ready-made kit, although this will require the help of an experienced welder. Such structures need additional insulation if they are planned to be used in the winter. The most widespread are garages made of stone materials:
- bricks;
- gas silicate blocks (gas blocks);
- foam concrete blocks (foam blocks);
- cinder blocks (cinder blocks).
Stone buildings are the most reliable, which is why they are called capital.
A stylish wooden garage built on a summer cottage with your own hands can fit perfectly into the overall design of a suburban area.
A metal garage, purchased in a collapsible form, is assembled in a summer cottage in a few days with the active participation of an experienced welder
The main stages of building a garage
Any construction requires preparation, during which a project of an object is developed, all necessary materials are purchased, earthworks are carried out, and further down the list. Let's consider each stage separately.
First stage: development of the project in a simplified form
Before you build a garage for a summer residence, you need to mentally imagine the future structure and draw a small project diagram on a piece of paper. Of course, you can order technical documentation from professional designers, but then you will have to forget about savings, since the services of these specialists are not cheap. The garage is not a work of architecture, so you can design this object yourself. In doing so, decide on the answers to a number of questions:
- What is the purpose of a garage? Just to secure a parking space? If it is planned to carry out machine repairs and maintenance, is a viewing hole needed? Do you need a cellar? Write down all the wishes on a piece of paper and take them into account when developing a project plan.
- What dimensions can a garage have, based on the available free space in a summer cottage? The width of the building, length and, of course, height are determined. If the garage is needed only for parking the car, then 3 m wide and 5.5 m long are enough. The height depends on the height of the car owner, because he will most of all have to be in this room.
Sketch of a capital garage, built of bricks, blocks and other stone materials, with a shed roof, small window openings, a ventilation system
The second stage: breakdown at their summer cottage
At this stage, they begin to transfer the schemes sketched on a piece of paper to the real area. In the professional language of builders, this sounds like "binding to the terrain." They determine the location of one of the corners of the future garage and drive in the first peg with a sledgehammer or heavy hammer.
Then, using measuring tools (tape measure, square), other angles are measured and stakes are also driven in. A thin nylon cord is pulled between the pegs, which can go up to 40 meters, depending on the size of the garage.
As stakes, you can use 40-centimeter pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Usually takes up to 10 pegs.
Third stage: earthworks
They begin the active construction of a garage in the country with earthworks, during which a trench is dug out for pouring a strip foundation. The width of the trench is usually 40 cm, while the depth depends on the degree of freezing of the soil in the area. An insufficiently deepened foundation can cause cracks in the walls of the garage and other damage. In some regions, 60 cm is enough, while in others you will have to dig twice as deep.
So that the bottom of the trench dug for the foundation is not loose, the soil is selected to a layer with natural density (that is, the soil in this place should not be bulk). The walls of the trench are carefully processed with a shovel, achieving their evenness and verticality.
Fourth stage: pouring the strip foundation
Of all types of foundations, it is worth choosing a rubble concrete option, since when pouring it, it is possible to reduce the cost of cement through the use of rubble stone. Work on the device of a concrete foundation is carried out quite simply. A rubble stone is laid in rows in a dug trench, spilling each masonry with cement mortar. The operations are repeated until the dug trench is filled to the brim.
During the construction of a garage in the country, a rubble concrete foundation is poured. On the diagram: 1. Waterproofing. 2. A blind area that prevents water from entering the foundation. 3. Rubble stone filled with cement-sand mortar
It is important to note that the strength of the foundation directly depends on the quality of the cement. So that the garage building does not shrink and is not covered with a web of cracks, it is necessary to purchase cement (Portland cement) not lower than grade 400.
For mixing the solution, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 2.5. In other words, one part of cement should be two and a half parts of sand. Water is added gradually, achieving the mobility of the solution. Water is usually taken as much as cement.
Stage five: plinth installation, installation of gates, erection of walls
Formwork is installed along the entire perimeter of the trench, using boards for this to fill the basement with concrete mortar. If the construction site was not leveled initially, then the highest point is taken as the basis for counting the height of the plinth. 10 cm is added to the base and the horizon is displayed. Two layers of waterproofing are laid on the dried surface of the base, for which a roll of roofing material is used. Horizontal waterproofing protects the walls from the penetration of capillary moisture coming from the ground.
Before starting the construction of the walls, it is necessary to install metal garage doors that will be fixed in the masonry. The strength of the connection between the door frame and the wall is ensured by embedded parts welded to it in the amount of four pieces on each side. As embedded parts, round rods are used, the diameter of which should be at least 10-12 mm. When laying, metal rods are embedded in the seams.
By the way, do not forget to paint the surface of the gate before starting installation, preferably in two layers. When installing, check the verticality of their position with a level, if necessary, place flat stones or iron plates under the corners. The exposed gates are supported by wooden braces.
Having completed the installation of the gate frame, they begin to lay out the walls of the garage using the chain laying method. At the same time, the seams of the previous row are overlapped by the next row of cinder blocks or other stone materials selected for the construction of the garage. In accordance with the technology, masonry always starts from the corners. A cord is pulled between the exposed adjacent corners, along which the rest of the blocks in a row are laid. Then again raise the corners, pull the cord again and lay out the next row of blocks.
Using the building level when laying the walls of the garage with your own hands allows you to ensure the evenness of all surfaces, both vertically and horizontally
Using a plumb line, periodically check the verticality of the walls. Close attention is paid to the verticality of the corners. The horizontal position of the stacked rows is verified with a building level.
The roof of the garage also serves as its roof, so the end walls have different heights, which ensures the necessary slope of the roof, which is necessary for the drainage of rainwater. The upper part of the side walls is also sloped, with a height difference of five cm per meter. The height of the front wall, into which the garage door is built, is usually 2.5 meters, and the back (deaf) - 2 meters. If it is necessary to make the walls higher, then the masonry needs reinforcement, which is provided by a metal mesh laid on every fifth row.
The cement-sand mortar used for laying the walls of the garage is kneaded in the following ratio:
- a bucket of Portland cement grade 400;
- four and a half buckets of sand.
Water is added until the solution acquires the consistency of thick sour cream. The plasticity of the cement-sand mixture will give ordinary clay or lime dough. Finished walls are rubbed with cement mortar or plastered, and then whitewashed with lime.
To carry out the laying of blocks at a height, scaffolds are used, which must withstand the worker, several blocks and a container with a solution
Sixth stage: overlap and roof
The ceiling is made of steel I-beams, the height of which can be 100 - 120 mm. With such beams, a garage is easily blocked, the width of which does not exceed 6 meters. 20 cm are added to the width of the garage and thus the length of the beam is obtained. The beams are inserted into a long wall by 10 cm, while the cinder blocks in the place of the supports are replaced with blocks made of monolithic concrete. The step of laying the beams is 80 cm.
Then the ceiling is “sewn up” with 40 mm boards along the lower flanges of the beams. Roofing material is spread on top of them, on which slag, expanded clay are poured or mineral wool slabs are laid. Next, a 35 mm cement mortar screed is made, the surface of which must be carefully leveled.
After the screed has completely dried, it is coated with a primer and covered with a waterproof roofing material (for example, bikrost, rubemast, etc.), glued with mastic or by melting.
The seventh stage: the device of the floor and the blind area
The garage floor must be concrete to support the weight of the car. A layer of fine gravel or sand is poured onto a leveled earthen base, well rammed and poured with a 10-centimeter concrete screed. Concrete is prepared from cement, sand and small gravel (1:2:3). With the help of the exposed beacons, they monitor the floor surface, preventing the appearance of bumps and depressions.
Outside the garage around the perimeter, a blind area is arranged, the width of which is half a meter. Also, the earth base is covered with gravel, on top of which concrete 5 cm thick is poured. The blind area is built under a slight slope, which contributes to the rapid removal of rainwater from the walls of the car garage.
The interior decoration of the garage depends on the preferences of the car owner and the presence of additional purposes for using the premises. Be sure to provide lighting and, if possible, heating
Video clips with a step-by-step example of construction
This is how you can, slowly, build a garage in the country with your own hands. Carrying out the work according to the plan and moving from stage to stage, you will be able to get a solid, reliable parking space.
Every car owner dreams of a small cozy garage. This dream is easy to turn into reality with your own hands by building a garage yourself.
Construction features
Before you start making a garage, you need to carefully consider and disassemble the construction plan. First of all, you need to obtain a building permit.
Pay special attention to the following documents:
- SNiP 2.07.01-89 “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements”;
- SNiP 21.01.97 "Fire safety of buildings and structures".
If fire regulations are not met, then the building can be declared illegal and demolished.
You also need to decide what kind of building will be. It is divided into several types:
- temporary - has a short service life;
- mobile - requires a frame structure;
- combined - suitable for subsiding soils;
- capital - has a long service life, but will be expensive.
It is necessary to consider protection against intruders. It is better to spend money on an alarm system than to calculate the losses due to stolen property and a stolen car later.
Dimensions
In order to calculate the required dimensions, you should decide on the number and size of machines that will "live" in the building. You should also understand whether any other things will be stored in the garage. It is necessary to consider whether a large car will be bought in the near future. For example, if in the near future the owner is going to purchase a large truck, then building a passenger car is pointless, it is better to immediately consider the option of building a large garage.
For one car, the size will be calculated based on its dimensions. To this value you need to add half a meter on each side. This is necessary for a comfortable exit from the car and free movement around the garage. It should be remembered that with such small sizes for tires and various devices there will be no room. Therefore, it is worth increasing the length by 3 meters and adding a few more meters to the width. The height of the building must be more than half a meter from the height of the car.
All measurements are best done with the trunk open.
For several cars, it will be more difficult to calculate the size. Between them you need to create a distance of a fully open door, you can add 30-40 cm for comfortable parking. Between the wall and the door, the distance should be more than half a meter. The front and rear of the vehicle must be positioned so that a person can pass freely. The distance should be left at about one meter.
As for the gate, here you need to take the width of the car and add 60 cm on both sides. If there are two cars, then it is better to take the width of the gate from 2.5 meters and 20 cm in reserve on each side. The height of the building is calculated in the same way as in the case of a single machine.
These were examples of the simplest small boxes. If the owner wants to use the garage space not only for storing his "iron horse", but also for other purposes, it will be enough to calculate the dimensions of the items and take into account the space for a free approach to them. Then add the data obtained to the existing dimensions of the garage, which were calculated from above.
A drawing will help determine the dimensions., it is performed on paper or in a special program. For advice, you can turn to professionals, they will help and tell you how best to fulfill this or that idea. You can take the finished scheme. The main thing is its presence. The drawing is very important for subsequent work.
Location selection
If the garage is located in a summer cottage, you can consider the option of adding a structure to the house. There is no need to obtain permission here, construction does not require special conditions, because such a building is considered part of the house. Here it is possible to make the exit as close to the gate as possible or immediately to the street.
You will have to tinker with a detached type of garage. The SNiP states that there must be a distance of at least one meter between the garage and the boundary of the site if there are no buildings on neighboring land plots. In the case when they are, then the distance should be at least 6 meters. When erecting a building, make sure that there are no sewer pipes, heating pipes, water pipes and power lines nearby. Construction in lowlands should be avoided - this can lead to flooding. The best option would be a small hill.
If there is not enough space on the site, then the way out of the situation is to build a garage underground. Departure must be done on the street. It is impossible to have a garage directly under the house itself; it would be more rational to make an extension to the strip foundation. The area under which the building is located should not be used for the installation of structures with a foundation depth of more than 55 cm. But if there are underground springs or wetlands at the site of the future building, then it is better to refuse construction, such soil will require an extremely expensive drainage system.
The premises must be located as close as possible to the exit and the motorway, but without sharp turns.
If there is no cottage, but a garage is needed, you can buy a privatized plot of land in the city. After that, having received permission, start construction. This process is very lengthy, so be patient. You should choose a place as close as possible to the house, but you need to be prepared for the fact that there may not be free land for building within the city, but only on the outskirts or outside the city. Such a garage needs careful protection from intruders.
Design Options
There are many types of garages, for every taste and budget. The simplest and cheapest options are “shell” and “pencil case”. They can be easily made with your own hands, and the “shell” can even be moved. But they are not durable.
The next type is one-story, it can be made with a pit or a hozblok. In the city, most often they build a monolithic version, and although it does not look very attractive, it is very durable. No thief will be able to get into it. If the garage is located in a summer cottage, then a panel frame garage can be an inexpensive option. It is built many times faster than monolithic and brick.
A two-story building can serve not only for storing cars, but also suitable for living in the summer. The residential floor should be warm, equipped with light, a toilet and a kitchen. And the second floor with a gable roof can turn into a cozy attic.
The garage can also be an extension to the main house. The advantages of such a building are that you do not need to think additionally about heating and other communications, the entrance to the extension can be made directly from home. But a significant disadvantage is that exhaust gases enter the house upon arrival and departure of a car. This option is suitable for those owners who have not completed the main house, because an extension to an already finished building requires large investments and thorough preparation.
For the construction of an underground room, several conditions must be met:
- When building a deep garage, its waterproofing is considered the biggest problem. It will require the arrangement of a drainage system for the roof of the garage and enhanced waterproofing of all supporting structures.
- The garage roof frame must be made using concrete slabs with a mandatory support system.
- The room must have an emergency exit in the event of a house collapse or fire.
- After choosing a garage design, you should decide on the material and find good suppliers of all the necessary attributes for construction.
materials
The market offers a huge range of quality materials that will last a long time. Each has its own pros and cons, you should remember this and choose the option with which it will be comfortable to work.
Polycarbonate is a lightweight and cheap material, but should only be used for a small garage. For example, for shells.
If the owner prefers metal, then you can opt for sandwich panels or corrugated board. Sandwich panels in a section resemble a sandwich: there is a heater between two metal sheets. Construction is carried out in a very short time, and the design is lightweight and lends itself to any upgrades. Their price is very low, and installation can be carried out at any time of the year. But such material is short-lived, the metal frame requires rust treatment, and the wooden base must be treated with antiseptic substances.
Decking is a cheap, high-quality and beautiful material. Garages from corrugated board are built quite quickly. You should pay attention to the brand: it is better to choose S-20 or PS 0.5 mm thick. In no case should you take grades -8, these sheets will not last long due to poor wind resistance and low frost resistance.
A red brick construction will be much more reliable than a metal one. Such material has high frost resistance, low thermal conductivity. From an aesthetic point of view, brickwork looks pretty decent, but the material is expensive.
The foam block is cheap and light in weight, so one person can build from it. The only catch is that the gray blocks don't look very attractive. This problem can be solved with the help of finishing materials.
Gas silicate blocks are gaining great popularity. Despite their low weight, they have high strength, they are easy to process. Also, the blocks have low thermal conductivity, do not require additional treatment with antiseptics. With such material, you can not be afraid of the appearance of mold, bacteria and fungus.
According to environmental characteristics, gas silicate blocks are on a par with natural materials.
Minus gas silicate blocks - high water absorption. The plaster layer on the walls can crack and flake off. This problem can be solved by treating the walls with penetrating primers. Since blocks are a weak basis for fasteners, it will be problematic to fix massive objects. They do not have high frost resistance. The material has high rates of free lime, which allows you to activate the corrosion processes of metal inclusions: fittings, pipelines, frames and others.
Another artificial, but environmentally friendly material is cinder block. You can buy it or make it yourself. The second will require a vibroforming machine. When buying, you should pay attention to the filler. It is better to choose crushed stone, sawdust, shell rock, expanded clay. A cinder block garage is not afraid of natural disasters, it has a high fire safety, and is easily repaired. With this material, you can vary the thickness of the walls. In addition, it is not amenable to biological destruction, its price is quite small, and its service life is about 100 years. Reduces the dignity of the cinder block unpresentable appearance, complex laying of pipes and cables, high thermal conductivity.
Arbolite has been known since the times of the USSR. It is light in weight and has low thermal conductivity. It is a flame-retardant material, resistant to stretching. He is not afraid of cracks and deformations during foundation movements. It is immune to rot and mildew. The material is distinguished by high frost resistance. It is also easy to fix various designs on it. In such a garage there will be good sound absorption. Of the minuses - a high coefficient of water absorption - from 40 to 85%, and a rather high price.
Expanded clay block will be an assistant in the embodiment of bold design and architectural ideas. Almost all types of finishes, both internal and external, are suitable for it. The material has low thermal conductivity, it is strong and durable, with high sound insulation. The vapor permeability of the blocks creates a favorable microclimate inside the building. The process of building a garage will move quickly due to the large size of the block. And simple production contributes to an affordable price.
The downside of expanded clay blocks is the formation of cold bridges, but with the help of cladding and additional thermal insulation, the problem can be solved. The material has low water resistance, is quite heavy and requires a strong foundation, but this building material cannot be used as a foundation.
A more natural material is wood. The material is inexpensive, beautiful and allows you to make bold design decisions. With the help of various impregnations, fire resistance can be achieved. Minus - a short service life and high thermal conductivity.
Railway sleepers are bars made of trees. A special blend that works as an antiseptic helps protect your garage from rot, bacteria, sun, moisture and small rodents. You can buy sleepers at the nearest railway department, where the tracks are being repaired. A garage made of such material will turn out to be dry and warm, able to withstand even an earthquake. But you should never build a garage from new sleepers. The smell of creosote is very dangerous, it can cause chemical burns and poisoning. The period of their use in the air should be 12-30 years, during this period the mixture is washed off and loses its unpleasant odor.
The methods of manufacturing and processing sleepers are different, some products are impregnated through, while others are 2.75 centimeters. It is better to use the last option. Such a building requires careful processing inside, which reduces the risk of contact with creosote residues. Outside, it is necessary to make a well-ventilated facade.
Many building materials do not have high frost resistance, so the garage needs to be insulated. The cheapest insulation is foam. It is very easy to install. But you need to remember that this is a fragile material that wears out quickly.
Another cheap insulation is mineral wool. It is safe for health, has high thermal insulation and a high level of sound absorption. Such material must be covered with an additional layer of vapor barrier.
A more serious insulation is reflective thermal insulation. The material consists of a layer of heat insulator, covered with a metallized film on top. Of the advantages - low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation, low weight, immunity to moisture. This material is easy to install. The disadvantage is that the material has been used not so long ago and all its properties have not been studied. It is only known that this insulation is susceptible to corrosion.
Basalt cardboard is a durable material that is highly resistant to temperature extremes, deformation and moisture. The material has low heat capacity and good sound absorption, is not afraid of fire. It is not cheap, but very high quality and will last for many years.
In addition, heat-insulating paint and “warm” plaster will help to insulate the garage.
Finishing outside the building should combine resistance to external environmental influences and have a presentable appearance. The modern market offers a wide range of options that meet these conditions. The simplest and cheapest ways are jointing, plastering, siding. More expensive ways are wooden lining, natural or artificial stones.
If the garage is two-story, the space between the first and second floors is covered with reinforced concrete slabs. It is desirable to do this with a hollow-core slab, because it is easier to install and low in price.
Roof covering materials can be divided into two groups: soft and hard. The former are suitable for a flat roof, and the latter for a gable roof.
The soft ones are:
- Flexible tiles. The material serves up to 55 years, is resistant to corrosion and decay and can be of any color. It is better not to use the material in the northern regions - under the influence of frost, it becomes brittle.
- Ruberoid. Service life - about 15 years. The material is cheap, resistant to frost and sun exposure.
- The self-leveling roof serves 22 years, is easily and quickly installed, and can be repaired. The application surface must be perfectly smooth.
- The built-up rolled roof (gidroizol, stekloizol) has been in operation for about 50 years. The material is durable, does not burn, it has good sound insulation, and is immune to temperature extremes. The only negative is the high price.
The hard ones are:
- Reinforced concrete slab - has a long service life, suitable for flat roofs, can withstand a lot of weight. On such a roof, you can even set up a garden.
- Flat slate - easy to install, inexpensive, does not lose its qualities in any climatic conditions. Its very easy to fix.
- Polycarbonate - serves for about 25 years, does not burn and does not react with solvents, low in price. Such material is easy to install, resistant to temperature extremes, but under their influence it can slightly change shape.
- Seam roof - does not require a powerful frame, durable, resistant to mechanical damage and temperature extremes. Cons of the material - high price, difficult installation, low sound absorption.
- SIP-3 is used for overhead power lines;
- SIP-4 is resistant to ultraviolet rays;
- SIP-5 is suitable for temperate and cold climates, resistant to high temperatures.
For the storage and safe movement of building materials, wooden pallets are required. A good choice would be a pallet made of white acacia, birch or boxwood.
To save money, you can buy a used pallet, the main thing is good quality.
Construction process: main stages
After creating a drawing, choosing building materials and compiling step-by-step instructions, construction can begin.
"Penal" and "shell" do not require a solid foundation. First you need to make several separate sections and then assemble them.
Assembly steps:
- it is necessary to drill technological holes in the structure;
- cover the finished elements with an anti-corrosion agent and paint them;
- assemble the segments into a common structure and fix;
- protect and paint all welding defects.
Electricity is available in the garage. To do this, a lamp and two sockets are installed, then the wires are passed through the corrugation. For work, copper wires with double insulation are taken.
The construction of a more complex structure begins with the installation of a strong foundation. For a garage, options such as a monolithic slab, pile material, tape shallow or buried foundation are suitable. If a pit or cellar is planned, then the best choice is a recessed tape. A garage with a quality foundation will last a long time and will not bring problems, so more attention should be paid to this stage.
Separately, it is worth considering the construction of the pit. The size depends on the car itself. For a passenger car, a width of about 70 cm is suitable, for a truck, you need to add 20-25 cm to the standard size. The height depends on the height of the owner of the garage, but, in any case, it is better to make the garage a little deeper.
An important element is the plinth, its height ranges from 0.5 to 2 meters. There are two types of plinth: protruding and sinking. The first option is more elegant, but it will require the construction of an additional ebb along the protruding upper edge - this prevents moisture from entering. The second option is more practical and the building receives maximum protection from moisture.
When building walls, two methods are used, it all depends on the chosen material. The first way is block building. With it, the garage will not need to be heavily insulated, but additional finishing on the outside will be required. The second way is wireframe. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or a wooden beam. The advantage of this method is the rapid construction of the premises.
The next step is preparing the gate for installation. First you need to take measurements. It is necessary to measure the opening, paying attention to the distance from the right edge to the left. It is also necessary to measure the height of the lintel.
There are various types of gates for garages: simple swing, sectional, automatic or manual. Most car owners prefer sectional. Such products are very comfortable, take up less space, sealed and strong. But they are high in price and have a complex device.
Before equipping the gate, you need to carefully read the instructions and properly prepare the opening. If the material is light, the opening is reinforced with a special metal frame. For a brick garage, such a frame is not required.
The room needs to be vacated, this will help to cope with the assembly and installation of the gate much faster and easier.
The next stage depends on the number of floors: if the garage is two-story, then it is necessary to overlap between the first and second floors with a reinforced concrete slab and re-erect the walls.
When building a roof, you need to be careful and observe safety precautions. The easiest way is a flat roof with a slight slope, about 15 cm. So it will be better to go down and drain the precipitation. The only disadvantage of such a roof is the lack of an attic.
