We build a frame summer house with our own hands. Country house projects: looking for an economical and durable option How to build a compact house

Even a small country house should have at least a kitchen and a recreation room. If you plan to spend the whole summer outside the city, in addition to often receiving guests, it makes sense to build a full-fledged building with all the amenities. We invite you to look at photos of country house projects.

Basic requirements of SNiP

The requirements for a building located on a garden plot are less stringent than for a residential building. However, if during the construction process you create discomfort for your neighbors, you may be forced to demolish the finished building.

Therefore, before choosing a project, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements of SNiP:

• even on a small plot, the building can only be located at a distance of 3 m from the neighbor’s fence
• the minimum distance from public territory (road) is also 3 m, and if there is a passage 5 m
• if there are other buildings on your site, in order to reduce the risk of their fire, the distance between block or stone buildings is left at least 6 m, between a stone and a wooden building 10 m, if both buildings are wooden - 15 m; when using wood only as a ceiling - 8 m
• if there is a nearby power line, the distance from it is from 10 m; from the high-voltage line it is even greater, up to 40 m
• a certain distance (up to 4 m) must be retreated from tree trunks; 2 m is sufficient from low-growing trees.

Don't forget about building density. With standard dacha plot sizes of 6-10 acres, you have the right to occupy no more than 30% of the area with buildings.

The territory must have a mesh or lattice fence 1.5 m high. Solid fences are allowed only if this is agreed upon by the meeting of gardening members or both neighbors agree to this.

Do I need any permission?

According to Art. 51 clause 1 part 17 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, if the building is not intended for permanent residence, no special construction permit is required. But to obtain ownership rights to an already built garden house, as well as to other outbuildings, you will need to issue a cadastral passport and register with the Registration Chamber (according to a simplified scheme).

If it is planned to erect a residential building on a garden plot with the right to register in it, then it will be necessary to obtain a special permit signed by the executive authorities and a construction passport. As well as permission from the fire inspectorate. In the future, registration of ownership of the building will also be required.

Even a small building should last long enough

To make your country house as comfortable as possible, you should listen to the opinions of experts:

• No matter how much you would like to build something unusual on your site, with little construction experience it is better to settle on a universal project that has already been tested over the years
• when planning, you should immediately determine the size of the rooms and their location; this will allow you to immediately determine the supply of communications (sewage and water supply), which are laid at the stage of building the foundation
• In order to save your own money, the design of even a temporary building must be thought out so that in the future it can be used as a bathhouse, barn or summer kitchen
• be sure to take into account the possibility of further adding additional premises to the building: verandas, terraces, bathhouses and other buildings
• even in a small house it is worth providing not only a relaxation room, but also a kitchen area
• in the absence of other buildings, a separate place should be allocated for placing garden tools
• the building must be durable enough to last at least 25-30 years

How much will construction cost?

Regardless of the size of the future garden house, before starting construction you will need to calculate the cost of its construction. To do this you need to think about:

• Main settings: length, width and height of the building
• type of foundation and its height
• the type of materials used to construct the walls and their thickness
• roof type
• materials used for flooring
• dimensions of each room
• heating methods (if planned)
• types of finishing materials
• communication methods: electricity, sewerage, etc.

There are enough programs on the Internet that can calculate the approximate cost of construction of any type of building. Most of them have a free trial period. You can also use online calculators for calculations. Please note that the cost of materials may differ from those in your region of residence.

Since prices during the construction of a country house may increase if construction is planned for a long time, It is better to include a reserve of at least 10-20% of the total cost in the estimate. When calculating the cost, do not forget that such “little things” as roofing bolts, screws, primer, and plaster will also require considerable expenses.

It is better to purchase materials in one place - bulk purchases will be much cheaper.

Choosing a location on the site

Choosing the optimal location on the site

First you need to draw up a scale plan of the estate and mark the cardinal directions on it. We immediately mark on it existing buildings and large plants that are not subject to demolition. We shade all restricted areas on the plan (distances from the fence, power lines, etc.).

You should also not locate the building near compost pits and toilets - with the slightest breeze, unpleasant odors will enter the house. We mark favorable zones in dotted lines. Try to plan the site in such a way that even after construction there will be space for outbuildings (if they are needed), recreation areas, for example, a swimming pool, gazebos, playgrounds, etc.

In addition to the distances from neighboring buildings and roads established by SNiP, you should also focus on other factors:

• It is better to locate a country house closer to access roads and sources of communications: loading and unloading crops and household items will not be a big problem in this case, and connecting to power supply and other communications will be cheaper
• wind direction: to prevent the building from drying out quickly, you should not place windows and doors on the side of the prevailing winds
• When the windows face south or east, the room will quickly overheat in the summer; it is better if the sun hits them in the afternoon
• so that groundwater does not destroy the foundation of the building, the house is located on the most elevated place; on wetlands, if there is no alternative, you will need to consider a reliable drainage system and waterproofing the foundation
• Pay attention to the appearance from the window, because comfort always comes from such little things.

Take your time choosing a project. Start development at least six months before the start of construction so that you have the opportunity to think it through thoroughly and make calculations without rushing.

We are drawing up a project

Of course, the design of a country house can be ordered from a specialized organization, but the prices for such services are considerable. When building a small house, it is much easier to use ready-made diagrams, which are abundant on the Internet, and supplement them with your own calculations.

Building plan

You will need several drawings. The first one indicates the location of all rooms, entrances and window openings, as well as the thickness of walls and partitions. The second figure shows the layout of the foundation and the roofing scheme.

Small building project

It is impractical to build too large a structure on 3-6 acres of land– it will take up most of the site. A grandiose structure is not required even if you spend little time at the dacha. In some cases, a small building without a foundation and assembled from boards or even plywood is sufficient. However, such a house will not last long.

Inexpensive panel or foam block buildings on a pile foundation will cost a minimal amount and will even go to your grandchildren. A small country house can have a standard size of 3x3 or 4x4 m, and it will even be possible to provide a separate small walk-through kitchen-dining room. The second room will have one or two sleeping places.

A small house may have only one room with space for kitchen cabinets, a dining table and a sleeping area. But even for a small country house, it makes sense to attach a winter glazed veranda or terrace along the long side of the building, 2 m long. The veranda is built on a common foundation or the foundation for it is poured separately.

Such a house can be made with a summer or winter attic. A medium-sized building will occupy a minimum of free space on the land plot, while the living area will increase. If there is an attic, bedrooms are located in it, and on the ground floor there is a kitchen and a bathroom.

It is better to complement such a building with a veranda or terrace, where you can comfortably settle down to relax in the evening. For better heat retention, a vestibule can be provided in front of the entrance. A small summer shower will fit perfectly on the veranda.

If lightweight timber is used to build walls, and there are no problems with the soil (it is not too wet or loose, and groundwater does not rise too high), it is sufficient to erect a strip foundation. The foundation for the stove is prepared simultaneously with the foundation of the house. For a veranda, a columnar base will be sufficient.

For a log house made of 150x150 timber, a strip of foundation 25 cm wide is prepared. The terrace is installed separately on pillars with a cross-section of 25 cm, buried in the ground at a distance of 60 cm. When building in marshy areas or erecting brick walls, you will need a full-fledged deeply buried foundation.

To save money, the foundation for the veranda can be made as a separate lightweight foundation (column or pile). It can be added after construction is completed. But the option with a separate foundation is suitable only if there is soil that is not prone to movement, otherwise the foundation will move.

Large house project

If the family is large and the country house is planned to be used as a residential one, including in winter, it makes sense to build a permanent building from rounded logs, timber or even brick according to ready-made designs measuring 5.3x8.4 m, 7x8.4 m, 10x8 m and more. You can also order the development of your own non-standard project.

Such houses require a full strip foundation. It is laid below the freezing point of the soil, so that when seasonal temperatures change, movement and deformation of the structure does not occur.

A large country house can be two-story or consist of one floor and an insulated attic. It will have enough space not only for residents, but also for guests. On the ground floor there is a kitchen, bathroom and living room, and on the second floor there are bedrooms, children's rooms, an office and other rooms if necessary.

To avoid unnecessary problems with the supply of water, gas and sewerage, it is not worth moving the bathroom and cooking room to the second floor. It is also customary to arrange the living room on the ground floor, near the kitchen and away from the bedrooms.

If the building is planned to be used all year round, it is better to build not an attic, but a full second floor. Otherwise, almost the same amount of money will be spent on its insulation, wind and vapor barrier as on the construction of the second floor. It is also necessary to take into account heating costs - in the winter cold, solid walls will store heat much better than even well-insulated thin attic walls.

House with an attic

A country house with an attic will cost less than the construction of a full-fledged two-story building only if it will be used only in the summer. But even when arranging it you will need insulation. Otherwise, on sunny days it will be too hot. The heat insulation layer is made slightly thinner than for winter use.

If only the first floor is heated, only the walls of the building and the ceiling are insulated, leaving the attic cold. The door/lid intended for access to the upper floor is made as tight as possible and additionally insulated.

When constructing a conventional gable roof, the living space in the attic will not be enough. To increase the free space, the roof is made broken. However, its construction is more complex, and more materials will be required.

Another way to expand the space in the attic is to raise the walls just above the first floor. Such houses are called “one-and-a-half story houses.” By raising the walls, the area of ​​the premises will increase slightly.

Project of a house with a glazed veranda

The veranda can be attached to only one side of the house or run along two or even three walls. On heaving soils, it is better to build the foundation for it simultaneously with the foundation of the house. After all, when making a separate shallow foundation, you will gain only 1-2 m.

Most often, the veranda is completely glazed or the lower half of the wall is covered, and double-glazed windows or single frames are inserted along the top. You will receive a full-fledged room in which you can equip a dining room, living room or kitchen. In the warm season, the windows can be opened wide.

The veranda can also serve as a continuation of the living room. It can also be equipped with a small sports corner, a children's playroom or even an office.

House with terrace

On the covered terrace you can not only sit down for tea on a warm summer evening. On hot or rainy days, you can use it to do some current chores without littering the house. Often it is built upon completion of the main construction on a separate columnar foundation.

The garage is built as an extension to the house or is located on the ground floor. The walls and foundation can be made of brick or concrete blocks. If the soil is wet or loose, the house is installed on a reinforced concrete pad.

Two-storey house

If the family is large enough, and the size of the plot does not allow building a large country house, it makes sense to build a two-story building. In this case, you will be able to squeeze the maximum benefit out of even a small piece of land. The size of such a structure can be any from 4x4 m to 10x10 m or more.

The construction of a second floor will not cost much more. The load on the foundation increases by only 60%. Costs for flooring and roofing do not increase at all. Only the cost of materials for walls and floor coverings will be added. Thus, a square meter of area will cost less than in the case of a one-story building.

Experts do not advise overloading houses made of timber with an additional floor. It has enough advantages, but its strength has limits.

Country house combined with a bathhouse or sauna

If the land plot does not allow you to allocate a separate place for the construction of a bathhouse, it is quite possible to attach it to a country house. Such a project is also economically beneficial - after all, much more building materials will be needed for a separate building. There will be no need for separate communications - light and water supply.

Very often, a bathhouse or sauna is added to a house after construction is completed. The foundation for it is selected depending on the type of soil and the total weight of the building. To protect against moisture, the walls are carefully waterproofed.

Even if a bathhouse is being built simultaneously with a residential building, the foundation for it is made separate so that due to the difference in humidity, cracks do not appear and it does not move away from the general structure. The foundation must be built separately from the foundation of the house.

Indeed, due to high humidity, cracks may appear in it, and the base of the bathhouse will begin to move away from the foundation of the entire structure. Sewer and water supply pipes are laid in it. A separate drainage pit is prepared at a distance of at least 3-5 m from the foundation.

To prevent moisture from entering the room, the entrances to the bathhouse or sauna and the house are made separate. Between them you can build a covered corridor-transition, veranda, gazebo, or at least a canopy - in this case, when moving from the bathhouse to the house in winter, the likelihood of catching a cold is reduced. Since baths and saunas are a source of high humidity, you should carefully consider the ventilation system and waterproofing of the room.

In addition to ventilation holes, it is advisable to provide a window or small window for ventilation. The most acceptable option is to connect the steam room to a wall with a stove located in the house. In this case, the bathhouse or sauna will dry out much faster.

House with bay window

A bay window is a small part of a room protruding beyond the facade. Such structures will look ridiculous against the background of a building of a regular shape. A bay window will look harmonious only if there is a complex architecture, an unusual shape of windows, a roof or an entrance lobby.

It can be built into only one of the floors or pass through two floors at once. The bay window can have any shape: from semicircular to trapezoidal or pentagonal. With its help, it is possible to expand the area of ​​the building - in such extensions there are dining areas, winter gardens or work rooms.

In the absence of experience in construction, it is hardly possible to create such a structure, and the project will need to be ordered from specialists. However, such a house looks very unusual.

It is possible to attach a bay window after the construction of the country house. In this case, cantilever slabs are used as the foundation, which are built into the load-bearing wall. Such a foundation is buried to the same level as the foundation of the entire house. To lay out shaped protrusions, brick or profiled timber with a special locking system is most often used.

The protruding elements of the bay window lead to a weakening of the rigidity of the entire structure, so the frame of the house must be strengthened.

How much will it cost to purchase a finished building?

If you have no experience in construction, it makes sense to purchase a ready-made turnkey building. Depending on the allocated amount, you can buy either a simple panel structure or a full-fledged structure made of timber or logs. Since the cost of materials in each region may vary, it is better to find out the prices for such houses on the relevant websites.

• For example, a small house made of 3x3 m timber with clapboard cladding will cost 60 thousand rubles.
• An average-sized building of 5x3 m will cost about 10 thousand rubles.
• A full-fledged log house with a veranda can be purchased for 270 thousand rubles.

Materials used for construction

The choice of foundation type depends on the type of soil and the total weight of the structure:

• columnar or pile foundations made from concrete blocks, bricks, reinforced concrete, rubble stone in increments of 1-2.5 m; to combine them into one structure that serves as the support of the house, a grillage made of wood or metal is used; the most economical option, more suitable for light timber or frame buildings, log houses; in country construction, screw piles are mainly used; driven, driven and drilled piles are used less frequently;
• strip foundation: a more durable support made of reinforced concrete, brick or rubble, such a tape runs along the entire perimeter of the house and internal partitions; is divided into two types: shallowly buried in the ground at 40-70 cm and deeply buried (used for heaving soils) 1.5-1.8 m below the freezing level; strip bases can be used for any type of house from cast, block to brick;
• slab base in the form of a monolithic reinforced slab located on a sand and gravel bed; when the soil heaves, such a foundation is capable of lowering and rising without any deformation; such a base simultaneously serves as a subfloor; Suitable for all types of buildings, including large ones.

A columnar foundation on loose soils or with close groundwater passage is unacceptable. In these cases, strip foundations are used.

Most types of foundations are built on a 20-30 cm sand and gravel cushion, which protects the foundation from groundwater and capillary moisture. It is especially important in the presence of heaving (peaty and clayey) soil, which, when frozen, changes its volume and rises to the top. In the absence of a sand and gravel substrate, this can lead to warping of the foundation and cracking of the walls.

This cushion also helps to perfectly level the base before pouring the foundation. With its help, the pressure of the building on the ground is distributed more evenly. If it is absent and the structure settles unevenly, it may simply warp. Such a pillow is not made only on sandy soils or very wetlands.

When laying the foundation, sewerage and water supply pipes are immediately laid. Their depth is 0.5 m below the freezing point of the soil. If this is not possible, the pipes are additionally insulated. To ensure gravity flow of liquid, they are laid at a slight inclination of 4-7°.

Wall materials

The choice of materials for the walls of a country house depends on many factors: personal preferences, region of construction, duration of residence (all year round or only in the summer), project requirements and, of course, the allocated amount:

• frame or panel buildings: their main advantages are low cost and ease of construction; The disadvantages include high flammability, low wind resistance and poor thermal insulation - a few years after the shrinkage of mineral wool or polystyrene foam laid between the frame posts, it will be difficult to heat the house; service life 30-40 years;
• slag-cast: inexpensive buildings, for arranging the walls, formwork is prepared into which a mixture of cement and coal slag is poured; this method was even used in the construction of residential buildings several decades ago; the main disadvantage of this material is its low moisture resistance: inside such rooms, due to dampness, fungus quickly grows; service life up to 50-70 years;
• lightweight houses made of gas or foam blocks: these inexpensive materials are 8 times larger than ordinary bricks, so the construction of the building will be quick, in addition, the blocks are easy to saw or drill; due to their high porosity they have high heat and sound insulation; the service life of aerated concrete is up to 50-80 years, foam blocks are slightly lower;
• sandwich panel houses: unlike frame and panel panels, the strength element in them is not racks and crossbars, but the panel itself, filled with polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Such structures do not require assembly - fragments of the future building are delivered ready-made, all that remains is to assemble them; although such products are more expensive than panel and frame products, the disadvantages are the same - high flammability and short service life; although manufacturers claim that such a house can last up to a hundred years, in practice, within a couple of decades after the insulation shrinks, it will be problematic to live in the house permanently;
• houses made of timber or log cabins: durable eco-friendly building; excellent heat retention; service life 100 years or more; garden houses made of timber can be purchased ready-made, “turnkey”;
• brick or stone buildings: their construction will cost much more, but they will last 100-150 years or more.

Roof

For an inexpensive country house, it would be optimal to use a roof made of metal tiles or corrugated sheets. Such a roof is quite durable and not afraid of bad weather and can last up to 40 years. Rolled metal coated with a colored protective film looks quite aesthetically pleasing. Metal tiles are more convenient when arranging roofs of complex shapes.

The disadvantages of these two materials include a high noise level during rain or wind - the impact of every drop will be heard in the room. That is why it is worth considering soundproofing the ceiling.

Inexpensive polystyrene foam is a good heat insulator, but there is no point in using it as a sound insulator - it conducts sounds quite well. In addition, this material is flammable.

When using roofing felt as a roof, it is better to choose a material with an additional protective coating in the form of abrasive chips - it will last longer. However, the service life of inexpensive bitumen-based materials is short and is only 12-15 years. For euroroofing felt based on fiberglass, it lasts a little longer - 20-30 years.

The most optimal material for the roof of a building used not only in summer, but also in winter, is slate. At a relatively low cost, it has excellent characteristics - it is not afraid of temperature changes, is chemically resistant, and its actual service life is up to 30-40 years. However, slate weighs a lot and increases the load on the foundation, so this fact must be taken into account when laying the foundation.

Arrangement of partitions

There is a rule in construction: partitions should not exceed the weight of load-bearing walls. The simplest inexpensive structures are frame, panel or plank. It is better not to use drywall in an unheated building - it quickly absorbs moisture and will warp over time.

In such a house it is better to use ordinary partitions made of boards, then covered with shingles and plastered with lime. Any types of partitions are installed only on the subfloor. After installing the frame, which is attached to the frames to the floor and ceiling, heat insulators are laid inside, with the help of which heat is more evenly distributed indoors.

When constructing walls from timber or logs, the arrangement of partitions begins only after the wood has settled. The timber will settle for at least 6 months, but it will take at least a year for the logs to dry out. Glued laminated timber almost does not shrink, so the installation of partitions can begin immediately after construction is completed.

Facade finishing

Facade plaster

Cinder block houses or cinder-cast structures can simply be plastered and then painted with façade paint. Frame houses are covered with wood, finished with siding, block house (log panels) or thermal panels. It is also possible to plaster them.

If you have available funds, you can clad your country house with a ventilated facade with porcelain tiles or bricks. However, the cost of these materials cannot be called democratic.

Insulation

If a heated building is not insulated sufficiently, this will lead not only to increased costs for coal or gas, but also to the appearance of condensation in the premises due to high temperature differences. Protecting the building from temperature changes and excess moisture by installing insulation will significantly extend its service life.

It is better to insulate a building only from the facade side, so that the dew point (the temperature at which water vapor turns into water) does not move inside the building. You will need to insulate both the foundation, the ceiling above the basement (between the joists or under the screed), the attic floor, and the walls themselves.

As a heat insulator, you can use inexpensive polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, sawdust or expanded clay. The last two are used as foundation insulation and attic backfill. Extruded polystyrene foam, resistant to rotting, can be used both for thermal insulation of walls and insulation of the foundation of a house.

To insulate the walls, a frame is prepared, between which waterproofing and a layer of insulation are laid. It is recommended to install a film on top of the heat insulator to serve as a wind barrier. Next, the frame is covered with any finishing material.

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Today, construction technologies offer the construction of garden houses not only from classic materials (logs, cinder blocks, bricks), but also to use plywood sheets, OSB, aerated concrete blocks, foam blocks, timber, etc. as the main building materials.

But it is plywood garden houses that have excellent soundproofing and thermal insulation characteristics, along with ease of work and inexpensive construction costs.

Another advantage of this construction is the opportunity to make a house out of plywood with your own hands. This allows you to significantly reduce the cost of hiring professional teams. But it must be kept in mind that garden houses made of timber and plywood have some disadvantages, for example, the vulnerability of the latter to aggressive actions of the external environment. Accordingly, additional measures must be taken to protect this building material, and this, in turn, increases costs.

Plywood is also an unsafe building material for home residents in terms of penetration by intruders. Therefore, when building a garden house from timber and plywood, external finishing work is required, for example, siding, which, in addition to decoration, also hides the main material used in construction from prying eyes.

Country houses are built using frame technology, which is gaining increasing popularity in many countries around the world. This explained by its main advantages:

But the wood that is used to build a house (boards for roof sheathing, bars for wall frames) must be dry, and plywood sheets must have a minimum of chips at the edges. In addition, all wood materials must be additionally treated with special compounds that can provide the required fire safety and also protect against moisture.

Construction of a frame plywood house can be divided into the following stages:

• foundation construction;
• construction of wall frames and plywood cladding;
• roof installation;
• insulation;
• finishing works (internal and external).

Gallery: garden house (25 photos)

Tools

To build a house you you will need the following tools:

Laying the foundation

A massive foundation for a frame small garden house is not required, but for this the house must be made with strict adherence to all technologies. Reinforced concrete foundation blocks, strip foundations with a recess, cast-in-place piles - all these types of foundations are suitable for starting the construction of a frame house. Usually, a strip foundation is used.

When there are significant differences in terrain, it is best to use a pile foundation. This will make it possible to level the structure of the house and avoid distortions with minimal consumption of building materials and normal strength of the base.

Materials required for organizing the foundation of a plywood house:

• crushed stone, sand;
• concrete (ready-made or its components: fine crushed stone, cement, sand);
• pipe for floor ventilation;
• reinforcing bars.

Before starting construction, you need to mark the territory yourself and use pegs and rope to mark the boundaries of the future structure. It is best that the place where the house will be installed is level. A trench with a width of no more than 60 cm with a depth of 70 cm. This depth is quite enough to ensure the required reliability and strength for a frame house. The bottom of the trench is compacted, then covered with a layer of sand and compacted again.

Then a layer of fine crushed stone is poured in and compacted. Such a pillow will distribute the load evenly and can provide waterproofing of the lower layer of the base. To improve the density of the cushion, a small amount of water is used when compacting crushed stone and sand. Then you need to construct formwork, which can be made from boards, securing them to each other with jumpers on nails. You can prevent concrete leaks while pouring the foundation by using plywood sheets 7-8 mm thick as formwork.

After the foundation dries and the formwork is removed, these sheets can be used again. The height above ground level of the strip foundation should be approximately 45-50 cm. To ensure that the formwork does not lose its shape during concrete pouring, the upper elements are connected to each other by transverse slats.

The reinforcement is laid both across the formwork and along it. Moreover, you need to leave the ends of the reinforcing bars above the level of the foundation for subsequent fastening of the frame. In several areas, a pipe is inserted into the formwork, the length of which is equal to the width of the foundation. This creates sufficient ventilation for the floor.

Then the foundation is poured with a ready-made concrete composition or crushed stone, sand, cement are mixed into proportions 2:3:1 with water. During pouring, you need to compact the solution a little to prevent voids from appearing. The surface must be smoothed with a trowel or a rule so that the top layer of the base is as smooth as possible. Once the foundation has hardened (approximately one week, depending on depth and weather conditions), further construction can begin.

Frame and cladding

Then, to build a plywood country house with your own hands, you need to assemble a frame. Frame construction represents a step-by-step implementation of the following stages of work:

Insulation

Options for insulating a DIY garden house.

In-wall

Foam coat

Polystyrene foam grade C25 or more used for external wall decoration.

• The foam plastic is fixed with cement glue, and the adhesive beacons can compensate for the unevenness of the wall surface. For additional fastening of the slabs, plastic dowel umbrellas are used.
• The same cement glue is applied on top of the foam plastic with a wide spatula, then reinforcement is embedded into it - fiberglass mesh with a cell size of 3x3 mm and a density of at least 170 g/m2. The mesh is glued with the strips overlapping by 70-80 mm.
• Then the mesh is covered with a layer of glue so as to hide its texture.

Subsequent finishing is at the discretion of the owner of the house. As a rule, the walls are finished with decorative plaster or painted with facade paint. Instead of polystyrene foam, glued mineral wool slabs can be used. At the same time, they are much safer in terms of fire spread, however, they will cost much more.

Ventilated facade

If the vapor permeability of the walls is most important, then a ventilated façade is made:

• A sheathing is constructed on the walls (using a galvanized profile or timber).
• Mineral wool slabs are inserted into the spacer between the sheathing elements or under it, secured with dowel-umbrellas.
• The top of the insulation is covered with a windproof membrane.
• Afterwards, the facade is covered with siding along the sheathing.

Roof

For frame houses, lightweight roofing materials are used: corrugated sheets or soft tiles.

To the top sheathing rafter beams are attached, which are placed according to the level and are additionally fixed with jibs. The step between the beams should be no more than a meter. Then they make the sheathing with boards. The distance between the boards will depend on what roofing material is chosen. When using soft tiles, the step between the sheathing boards is small.

Then, when the sheathing is done, you need to lay a waterproofing layer. For which roofing felt is quite suitable, which is laid overlapping, the joints are fastened perpendicular to the sheathing and the roofing material is laid.

Finishing

Since the main material for the construction of a frame house is plywood, then interior and exterior decoration necessary. The best choice for exterior finishing material is siding, which does not weigh down the walls of the house much and is easy to install. The variety of textures and colors also speaks in its favor. In addition to siding, you can use wooden or plastic lining for external work.

For interior decoration materials can be decorative plaster, wallpaper, paint, tiles. But to apply certain finishes you will need to install plasterboard sheets.

The presence of a garden house on a country plot allows it to be used for permanent or temporary residence, storage of various accessories, or full-fledged reception of guests. He can also serve as a base room for a construction team in the case of constructing a large cottage. And the most important thing is that you can do it yourself without the involvement of specialists, you only need attention, patience and compliance with all recommendations.

Since you are reading this article, holidays outside the city on your own site are attractive to you. A country house is, of course, necessary for this. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and your labor, but also land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands as simply, quickly, easily and cheaper as possible. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allow you to wait out long periods of bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and that the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be resolved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where is already known, the site cannot be transported anywhere. Based on the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and off to work. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: building them yourself is very difficult. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal soil movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a full-buried strip foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the base of the strip). A fully buried foundation must be able to withstand its own shrinkage from at least the end of summer until the full warmth of spring next year. Insulated slab foundations require the same endurance, for example. Swedish stove. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but even the timber or log structure itself must be allowed to shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles/sq. m) and difficult to build independently.

The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be advisable only on very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built with 2 floors; brick and timber technologies allow an untrained, but attentive and careful builder to build a 2-story house. Examples of the layout of a compact 2-story brick and timber house are given in the figure:

Note: It is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. Building a country house from foam/gas blocks makes sense if the country house is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and heating costs will be lower.

The simplest and fastest ways to build a small house is to assemble it from a ready-made panel house kit or structural insulated panels (SIP). A prefabricated panel house 20x20 feet (6x6 m) is erected within a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental abilities trained according to the instructions for the kit. It’s no joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles/sq. m. Without foundation.

A house made of SIP will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rub./sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held together with locks between the panels. For a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have quite a lot of internal partitions made from the same SIPs with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So, we come to the conclusion: to build a country house quickly, simply and inexpensively from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

It is better to build an inexpensive garden and/or compact country house according to a standard design; For significant construction details, see below. A ready-made free project for a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard design of a garden house for 300 rubles. can actually be found on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

However, when going through projects, you need to take into account some significant circumstances, namely the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. excavation and foundation laying. The problem is frost heaving of the soil. During seasonal movements, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll in waves. Dacha plots are cut out on diverse soils, but with one common property - sufficient self-connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to the raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight tilt.

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. The square-cube law, well known in technology (and stubbornly unnoticed by amateurs), applies here. It’s easy to test it experimentally: glue together cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple both. The third factor is the soil’s own cohesion is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately state the conclusion: if a small wooden country house fits into a circle of a certain diameter in the plan, then on ordinary garden soils it can be built on a shallow foundation, which is much faster, simpler and cheaper. In which circle should the design of a wooden house fit into the plan, so that it can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including medium heaving, is shown in Fig. Here everything depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more “square” the house is, the better it copes with seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tram” houses for narrow areas, without looking closely, on a foundation of normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected to its structure. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or an articulated connection with it are excluded from the house plan projection.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. Let us only remind you that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils except non-heaving soils, you need to lay a normally buried TISE strip or foundation. A slab foundation with insulation “settles” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to crack. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, you can lay a foundation using geoscrews (see below) with a steel grillage.

Non-buried

The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a non-buried foundation for a compact country house is a columnar one from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. The blocks are laid out on cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; the top ones cross the bottom ones. Thus, the column is 400x400 mm in plan.

The pits for the posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15+15 cm is made up of an anti-heavy sand and crushed stone cushion. There is no point in deepening the pillars of blocks by more than 20 cm: the ligation of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the forces of frost heaving will tear the pillars. The number of rows of blocks in a column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. The maintenance break after installing a columnar foundation made of blocks is required to be minimal, for hardening of the masonry mortar, this is approx. a week.

Recessed

The buried foundation of a compact house is often made, following the example of large buildings, on bored piles in soft roofing felt formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are placed on the shell of the piles, which makes it possible to compensate for the difference in height along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast, small-scale construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - they must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: There is no point in laying a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the “caps” of TISE piles work normally in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one can create one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a buried foundation for a compact house is with geoscrews. Geoscrews are a type of shortened screw piles specifically for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, geoscrews are not designed for muddy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a homemade strip foundation, because... Geoscrews themselves are not cheap, but for a small house this is not so bad, since few screws are required.

A geoscrew for low- and medium-density soils, by the principle of holding it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a confirmed furniture screw and also looks like it in appearance, see fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Both geoscrews can be used on soils up to excessive heaving. You can either lay the wooden bottom frame of a building on the heads of geoscrews or mount a steel grillage. For information on how to build a wooden house on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installing a frame house

The advantages of geoscrews for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous:

• No preliminary geological surveys are required.
• Geoscrews can be wrapped in fairly heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or piece of concrete the size of a child’s head will push the screw to the side.
• There is no need for special equipment or access roads for it: 2 people use a crowbar or a homemade collar from a piece of pipe to wrap up to 10 or more geoscrews in a day.
• No preparatory excavation work is required: the screw is simply placed with the end into the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. It is leveled vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third to half.
• Screwed geoscrews can be turned/unscrewed to align the heads to the horizon.
• There is no need for a technical break to settle the foundation - construction can continue as soon as the last screw is screwed in.
• An incorrectly screwed screw can be unscrewed and screwed back in close to the previous hole.

Note: If you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them on whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What kind of house should I build?

Let's get to the point: what kind of simple country house will be cheaper and more likely to be built? In order of increasing cost, complexity and construction time, as well as potential aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are arranged as follows. way:

1. House from a military kung;
2. Hut house;
3. Bungalow house;
4. Frame house.

When there is no time for excesses

KUNG is an abbreviation for Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Dimensions. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War, and thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung cabin from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and placing it on posts, concrete supports for grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone cushion (so that weeds do not sprout and annoying living creatures do not appear). A foundation for a kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung as a country house has only one drawback: its utilitarian appearance, which any design efforts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

• Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
• The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction shed, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
• High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kungs have stood practically without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not in sight of demolition.
• Fire safety is built into the design.
• Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input panel (ISB) and terminals for grounding connections.
• Wide possibilities for redevelopment, internal equipment and finishing (see below).
• No legislation or installation permission is required. Bought - brought - installed - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from a ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 car (see figure): they have a flat floor and it is easier to place them on posts due to the small or absence of recesses for the wheel arches. You need 6 pillars (you can use dry stacked brick ones): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and can be converted into housing easier than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: Don’t take non-standardized “booths” from ancient ZiSs and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and the insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to zero vehicle dimensions (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. If your site is long and narrow, then a “tram” house made from a kung on it is practically the only way to do without laying a buried foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-compartment kung (double-compartment), on the left in Fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. The kung cabin (top left and right in the figure) already provides normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung cabin from old communication hardware. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some effort, such a kung turns out to be not a house, but a piece of candy, below right in the figure. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance) compartment for the autonomous power supply unit (BEA): in its place is a mini-toilet with a shower. By removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get space for a gas stove with 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself is purposely designed for gardening tools, planting material, etc., with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, communication equipment shelters have side windows, which cannot be said about all military shelters.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, but what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. The country hut house is almost as durable as a kung, because... its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small hut house (up to approximately 4x6 m) can be placed on a shallow foundation on any soil except excessively heaving soil. A hut house requires 1.5-2 times less materials than a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimal set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage, inherited from its ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any decoration into any landscape, see fig.:

There are few disadvantages to the chalet house. The hut house retains all its advantages up to a size of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small hut house, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that’s all.

In America and Canada, single-occupancy hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal tenants and sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare owner, who remembers), left and center in the figure:

Construction of a single house hut - shelter and a 3-bed country house

But the hut house, only 3x3 m in plan, can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. Heating costs in both cases are small, because the relative heat loss area of ​​the hut house is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your summer cottage is habitable from the first warmth of spring until the winter cold, then a hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house measuring up to 6x4 m in plan is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

1. Lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
2. The load-bearing A-shaped frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130...150)x40 lying on the plaza - any sufficiently hard, flat surface;
3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for distortion and size; for a hut house this is extremely important;
4. The calibrated frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
6. When all the frames are in place as they should, fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge purlin, also made of a pair of boards;
7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal ties;
8. At the level of the tie (transverse tie of the A-frame) the ceiling is assembled; without it the house will not be strong;
9. The floor of the house is assembled using the usual technology for wooden houses;
10. The wings of the frame are sheathed with 40 mm boards lengthwise, preferably tongue-and-groove;
11. Assemble window and door frames;
12. Facades are sheathed;
13. Carry out the remaining required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason that few people build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw further.”

Drawings of a hut house 3x3 m for two or three are given in the figure:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, like the intermediate frames, is 150x75 timber. Firstly, on facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tie (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge girder, a ridge beam of the same cross-section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and top strapping (longitudinal stiffening links) made of the same timber. Longitudinal and transverse connections are connected by a half-tree insert. Those. Using the example of a 4x6 m house, you can already see how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house increase with its size.

Note: On the bottom screed, 2 more ends of the 100x75 timber are visible on the sides of the window. The internal partitions rest on them. The door frame on the other façade extends up to the tightening and is made of 75x150 timber; The lower screed of this facade is split. If the house does not have a basement, the window frame is made in a similar way.

Bungalows and... bungalows

In the general concept, a bungalow is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, which is structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, the “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because... spacious, well ventilated, not overheated by the Sun, and in construction no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, little is known to construction specialists outside the tropics these days that bungalows are also a type of construction technology. The hut-bungalows built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the forest wilds of Russia, the northern United States and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still suitable for habitation. The house, built using bungalow technology, is easily recognizable by its 2-layer cladding made of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

The bungalow as a wooden construction technology combines elements of half-timbered and frame structures with working cladding. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a trace. advantages:

• In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for cladding, because unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (cladding), including unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
• The bungalow house is quite simple and can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including highly heaving.
• In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the paths of penetration of atmospheric moisture into the skin are minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of construction using bungalow technology are, firstly, increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of the openings: the outer cladding boards need to be cut in place to fit the platbands, otherwise pockets will form - moisture traps.

Bungalow like a bungalow

Bungalows as shelter houses are generally more popular than hut houses due to their better habitability. In a bungalow, you don’t have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat lunch.

The structure of a bungalow-type shelter house is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelter

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, a non-buried strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If it is columnar or pile, then you need 12 supports: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical post) on the others. This house can be extended up to 3-3.5 m in length. Then, if you do not extend it accordingly. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

A “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation measuring 4x5.875 m in plan is, of course, more complex (see next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of “real” recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev This option also works well on heavily heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a construction technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from timber from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is provided by cladding made of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use because... Under each joint of the sheets, backing posts and lengths are needed.

Bungalow construction diagrams are shown in the figure:

The rafter floor structures are not shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled by cutting into half a tree and into a tenon, and the tenons of the racks are located on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the corner reinforcement diagram in the center of Fig. The use of steel corners, overlays and other innovations in this case is unacceptable! You have to pay for the Old Testament “stupidity” with labor.

The sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (convexities of the annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: internal inward, external outward. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of the “humps” it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along the short (end) edges with triplets (not pairs!) of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also attached along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or in a snake (zigzag) with a pitch of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along the short edges with pairs of fasteners; along the long ones - in a row with the same step.

Assembling the bungalow's load-bearing frame is a very important stage of work. And labor-intensive, because You can’t hammer in staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were installed using wedging. The frame of the house is assembled using bungalow technology. order:

1. Assemble the lower frame on the foundation;
2. The racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
3. Assemble the upper frame on the racks;
4. Drill pioneer holes for the staples (marking with the staples themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the staple bar, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the bar;
5. Choose grooves for the shelves of brackets, because staples must be recessed into the wood;
6. The staples are fastened with a hammer;
7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and install the upper steel fasteners;
8. They hammer in the staples with a sledgehammer;
9. Produce wall cladding;
10. Remove the temporary braces and carry out the rest of the work.

Frames

A frame mini-house does not have any special features compared to a large residential one; a diagram of its device is shown in Fig.:

The construction procedure is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a “classic” frame house 6x4 m:

Video: 4x6 country house using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut and bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take up time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: its simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of a frame house is very flexible. On the one hand, it forgives the rather serious mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative amateurs some scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about building a small frame shelter house:

Video: DIY mini frame house

To this story we only need to add that the viewers’ comments about insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive” the dew point out once and for all, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used that do not allow condensation to form in the insulation layer and further inside: EPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The roof beam (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a peculiarity. It is determined by its small size, and, as a consequence, by the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the lack of a load-bearing partition (internal capital wall) in it (excuse the bureaucracy). To support the latter, a fully connected foundation is required; at a minimum - a tape of normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof crossbar) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the truss rack rests on a transverse beam-screed, and in the layered version on a load-bearing partition; split screed. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like based on your skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum standard size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge beams - 100x75 and mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame mauerlat, the timber of the top frame can serve directly.

After you have purchased a small plot of six acres, it is extremely important to develop a design for the house and its location. In this case, it is necessary to plan everything in a complex, since different types of landscape design require certain conditions for the choice of material for building construction.

If living in a house is not expected during the cold season, it makes sense to consider options for building a small house. This will significantly save the area of ​​the site for planting or create a unique landscape design.

Before construction, it is important to study all the main requirements for the construction of objects on a land plot:

1. Buildings should be located no closer than five meters from the border of the site and three meters from the neighbors’ territory.
2. The distance between your house and neighboring buildings should not exceed six meters.
3. Site fencing should be erected to a height of no more than one and a half meters.
4. Toilet and cesspools can be located at a distance of no closer than fifteen meters from residential buildings or water sources (wells, boreholes).

Which house project to choose?

Before starting construction work, you need to decide on the size of the house. The most relevant size can be considered if the building contains:

1. Living room (or several rooms).
2. Kitchen.
3. Terrace (open or closed veranda).

Conventionally, all house projects can be divided into three types:

Country house with a bathhouse under one roof

Projects for houses with a bathhouse are mainly made in two versions. Each of which must meet the main requirement - the combination of two buildings with different functions.

In the first option, the steam room and washing department are located on the first floor, and the rest room is located on the second.

When using the second method, a bathhouse is attached to a residential building. It can be placed directly next to the house or connected to it with a small vestibule.

What these methods have in common is the presence of one roof.

It is important to understand that when building such a structure it is necessary to use additional heat and waterproofing materials.

The undoubted advantage of such buildings is the possibility of creating a unified communication system. This will allow you to use the sauna all year round without the need to carry water and firewood.

Dimensions of residential buildings

The smallest residential country buildings are 4 by 4 m in size; there is no point in making houses with a smaller area. The layout of this option is very simple - one room.

Such houses can differ from each other only in the number of windows and location in relation to the cardinal directions. It is advisable to place doors in the middle or at the end of the building. Area about 16 square meters.

A building measuring 6 x 3 m will be slightly larger, approximately 18 square meters. You can already include a place for cooking in the layout.

The above options are unlikely to be optimal. Timber or log houses measuring 6 x 3 m are much more in demand among summer residents. This is explained simply - the length of the timber (log) is six meters.

In addition, you can already design a small kitchen in the house. In a country house measuring 6 x 4 m, you can build a small vestibule (or bathroom).

If we talk about residential buildings 6 x 4 m, then it is quite possible to place another room or living room.

Materials used to build country houses and their durability

1. Frame houses.

The most common construction method. According to statistics, more than seventy percent of country houses are frame or panel. They are erected quite quickly, during the summer season. The minimum construction time, without finishing and installing the foundation, can be one and a half months.

The frame is sheathed on the inside and outside with inexpensive material (plywood, OSB or lining).

Insulation is placed between the sheathing material. Advantages - the ability to complete and rebuild the structure. A good option in terms of price/quality ratio. If construction technology is followed and regularly treated with special antiseptic compounds, it is quite durable.

1. Log houses.

The second most common construction method. When purchasing a ready-made log house (taking into account the time required to build the foundation), it is realistic to build a house within 3-4 months.

Important! It will take approximately six months for the building to shrink.

You can build a house yourself; the process of constructing the structure is not complicated. Like any wooden building, the house can be easily completed or redesigned. Durable, subject to treatment with bioprotective materials. It is environmentally friendly and can last for decades if properly used.

Not a bad option. The truth will require close attention to the assembly process. If all recommendations of professionals are followed, the owner has the right to count on warm and reliable housing.

1. Country houses made of timber.

A very popular method. Solid, profiled timber is used in construction.

Assembly is carried out from ready-made beams, so the construction period will be 2-3 months. Taking into account the laying of the foundation. As in the case of log houses, the time for shrinkage will be about six months. As a rule, houses are made and assembled by professionals.

If you decide to build such a house yourself, there is no guarantee from the manufacturer. Advantages – warm; reliable; do not require finishing; possibility of modernization; durability; environmental friendliness; beautiful appearance. The disadvantage is the high cost.

1. Brick projects.

Brick structures are not afraid of temperature changes and unfavorable natural factors (precipitation, strong wind). However, this method has a number of disadvantages: brick is a rather expensive building material; The process of building a house can take a long time. Advantage - the service life of a brick cottage can be several decades without special preventive measures.

Important! When constructing such buildings, special attention must be paid to the optimal temperature conditions - high humidity is unacceptable.

In addition, due to the significant mass of bricks, the construction of a capital foundation is mandatory. The best option is a monolithic base.

1. Houses made of gas silicate blocks.

The main reason for choosing this material is its low price. About twice as cheap as brick.

Important! The blocks are fragile, so you need to be especially careful when transporting them.

Used in the construction of external walls. External cladding will be required, since the appearance of a bare house is not presentable. It is best to use materials that have increased moisture resistance and resistance to deformation. For example: siding or facing clinker bricks.

Low price of material. The mass of the block directly depends on the quality of the cement mortar used in its production. The maximum number of floors is 2-3.

Advantages – frost resistance; safety; low thermal conductivity; ease of processing; acceptable sound insulation; speed of construction.

Flaws:

• specific choice of finishing products; not all materials are suitable;
• inability to screw in self-tapping screws, since the blocks have a cellular structure;
• increased requirements for moisture insulation.

1. Sibit houses.

Sibit is a type of aerated concrete. It is particularly durable and resembles wood in some of its properties. The material is lightweight and retains heat well. The thermal insulation properties are three times greater than brick.

• low strength of the material;
• Heavy cabinets and shelves should not be hung on partitions and walls (special fastenings will be required).

Thus, we can conclude that the most economical option is frame houses.

Approximate prices for country houses

When choosing the option with a frame or frame-panel house, the approximate price will be from 11 thousand rubles per square meter. Construction of a wooden house box will cost about 13,000 rubles. for one m2. For a building made of foam concrete blocks you will have to pay from 15 thousand rubles. for 1 m2. Brick house – 18,000/m2. Thus, knowing the total area of ​​the designed house, it will not be difficult to calculate the final cost of construction. But these are only the costs of building walls. To this amount it will be necessary to add funds for laying the foundation, insulation, costs of laying the roof, and interior decoration of the premises.

In Moscow and the Moscow region there are a huge number of offers for the sale of ready-made turnkey country houses. Example: a house with dimensions width/depth/height - 6000/6000/3020 made of laminated veneer lumber is sold at a price of 367,000 rubles.

The final cost of the house depends on your preferences regarding the choice of additional options and can double or even triple.

Choosing a foundation

1. Columnar foundation- one of the most common. Consists of pillars buried in the ground. The upper part protruding outwards is aligned horizontally.

Poles should be installed at the corners of the building, under walls and partitions. It is recommended to maintain a distance between them of 1-2.5 meters. The pillars are usually made of bricks or concrete blocks. It is used in the construction of frame-panel structures, houses made of logs and timber.

• efficiency;
• speed of construction;

• used only for light buildings;
• cannot be used on moving soils.

1. Strip foundation completely repeats the outline of the house, and ensures the stability and reliability of the structure. It is a strip of reinforced concrete or brick. One part of such a foundation is in the ground, the other on the surface. This allows you to build garages or cellars under the structure. But only if a recessed type of foundation is used. Conventionally, such a foundation is divided into shallow (50-80 cm) and deep (over 80 cm).

Used in the construction of any type of dachas.

• reliability and durability;
• high load-bearing capacity;
• wide scope of application.

• relatively high price:
• labor intensity.

• driving;
• printed;
• drilling;
• screw.

They are driven or screwed into the soil until they rest against a dense layer of earth.

1. Monolithic foundation– a reinforced base laid on a specially equipped bed of gravel and sand. Suitable for absolutely any soil, will withstand the load from any country house. There is only one drawback - the high price.

Without the financial resources to attract professional builders, you can, armed with special literature and patience, build a house yourself. In practice, this requires effort, but can save up to half the construction cost.

Many self-builders invite others to view their projects and provide detailed reports, accompanying the process of building a house with detailed photographs.

Features of the house layout

Through the efforts of two men, a cheap house for permanent residence with an attached garage was built. Initially, the project did not include a garage and was added after the house was completed.

In general, the project changed as the discussion progressed on the advice of other builders and the requests of the wife. The original layout of the house included 6 rooms on two floors.

During construction, it was decided to equip two bathrooms, while on the ground floor the toilet and bathtub should be separate. The area of ​​the living room and the location of the stairs have also changed. Compared to the initial project, the living room was too narrow and elongated. The stairs were also planned to be awkward and steep. After the changes, these shortcomings were eliminated.

The cost of building a house with your own hands

In May 2010, the father of a small family planned to build a cheap house with his own hands for the amount of 300 thousand rubles. This amount included costs not only for materials, but also for connecting gas and electricity. According to the estimate, the following expenses were incurred:

1. Concrete - 20,700.
2. Edged and unedged timber - 70,000.
3. Foam plastic - 31,200.
4. Plywood - 8023.
5. Metal profile - 16,200.
6. Siding - 22,052.
7. Used windows - 4000.
8. Nails, screws, etc. - 15,000.
9. Delivery of material and excavator services - 5200.
10. Septic tank - 10,000.
11. Plumbing, radiators - 35,660.
12. GKL and finishing costs - 21280.
13. Design and installation of a gas pipeline, connection fee - 37,000.
14. Gas equipment (stove, boiler) - 29,000.
15. Electrical connection with materials - 3000.
16. Water supply connection - 2000.

According to the builder himself, the estimate lacks a number of small items. However, this also requires additional costs. It should also be noted that some of the windows were received from friends and did not require financial expenses. In total, 327,315 rubles were spent on the construction of the house without any small details. This amount does not include the attached garage. It was added later according to a separate estimate. Additionally, the construction of the garage required an amount of about 34,000 rubles. Taking into account unspecified expenses, the house cost no more than 400 thousand rubles.

Installation of a shallow strip foundation

The foundation is pre-planned with a width of 35 cm and a height above the ground of 25 cm and 20 cm below the ground. A die-cut section of 2.5x100 mm was chosen as a reinforcing element. The reinforcement of the tape was planned in 2 layers, top and bottom, with three connected sheets of die-cutting in each.

On the advice of experienced builders, vertical elements were added, and the number of sheets to be connected was increased to 5 pieces. Additionally, the height of the foundation above the ground increased and amounted to 45 cm.

reinforcement with die-cutting - you can’t do that!

After the foundation was poured into concrete, 20 anchor bolts were installed to install the lower frame.

Construction of the first floor

Before installing the walls of the first floor, the platform was installed and insulated and pipes for the sewerage system were laid. The bottom of the platform is left open, the insulation is fixed by means of fixed cuttings of boards. 3 layers of foam plastic, 15 cm thick, were used as platform insulation. The subfloor is made of 150x50 mm boards.

The walls were installed in a horizontal position. Foam plastic and 8 mm plywood protection are laid between the racks, and windows are also installed. The windows in the project were used second-hand. Installation of the assembled wall into a vertical position was carried out by two men. It was decided to abandon the installation of jibs in the construction of the walls. The builder assumed that the frame would be sufficiently rigid due to the plywood sheathing.

After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of internal partitions was carried out. Polystyrene foam was also used as insulation.

The principle of assembling the second floor

After installing the frame, a temporary floor from unedged boards was partially laid and the walls were assembled horizontally and installed vertically. Second-floor windows were also used.

To increase sound insulation in the interfloor ceiling, non-woven cloth was laid on the floor joists under the boards. This allows you to partially dampen vibration from steps.

Installation of rafters and roofing

Upon completion of the assembly of the walls of the attic floor, the rafter system was installed. The rafter overhangs were not extended. An inch board was used as lathing. The roof was covered with corrugated sheets 4 m long.

Exterior decoration of the building

Siding was used for the exterior of the building. It was mounted with a ventilation gap of 25 mm. Also at the stage of exterior finishing, a vestibule was added. The foundation for the vestibule was not installed; the structure was installed on pieces of concrete laid on the ground and sidewalk curbs.

Features of the staircase and its installation

The location of the staircase in the project caused a lot of controversy. Initially, its location suggested excessive emphasis on the attic ceiling. After changing the location and design of the staircase, it was made without a platform with slight turns.

The staircase is made of boards 50x150 mm, the width of the steps is 30 cm. The staircase was installed after the rough finishing of the first floor. Under the upper span there is space left for installing a toilet there. According to personal feelings, the staircase turned out to be comfortable and compact.

Interior decoration of the house

Before the finishing of the premises began, insulation of the interfloor ceiling and flooring of the second floor were completed. To increase the level of sound insulation, felt is nailed between the joists and floor boards. After this, rough finishing of the interior of both floors of the cheap house was completed.

The rough finishing included three points:

1. Installation of fiberboard as a wind barrier.
2. GVL installation.
3. Puttying joints and chips of GVL.

In the finishing process, water-based paint was predominantly used. The living room, kitchen and bedrooms are painted in different colors. The floors in the rooms are covered with linoleum, the ceilings are decorated with expanded polystyrene tiles.

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