Building a barn with a pitched roof: drawing, instructions, tips. Do-it-yourself barn - we build an inexpensive and reliable structure Corner barn with a pitched roof

I present to your attention a photo report on the construction of a 3 by 5 meter shed made of wood.

The foundation for the barn is columnar. To begin with, I dug holes about 800 mm deep (10 in total). Then he took the roofing material and twisted it into a pipe with wire (fasten it as securely as possible).

It turned out like this:

Pour the concrete foundation:

The whole day was spent preparing the foundation. By the end of the day this is the picture we got:

The diameter of the posts is 190 mm.

After the foundation hardened, I began to make the lower frame of the barn:

The lower harness was treated with an antiseptic.

Yes, by the way, 100x50 mm timber was used for the frame. Assembling the rest of the frame:

It's time to tackle the roof.

The roof will be hip. Here is an explanatory picture to make it more clear:

Photos during the process of assembling the rafter system:

Closer photo:

The roof is almost ready:

Made the roof sheathing:

Corrubite was chosen as the roof covering.

I laid the roof and began to sheathe the barn with a block house under the timber:

I installed windows and doors, and this is how I got this nice little shed:

Construction took about two weeks.

I'm also thinking about lining the bottom of the shed with something like flat slate to cover the concrete pillars. Well, you can add steps.

The frame of the shed is built on the foundation that we prepared in the last stage. We will use beams and boards for the frame.

Bottom frame

The bottom of the shed box is the bottom band. As a rule, 100 x 100 mm or 150 x 150 mm are used for the bottom belt depending on the size of the stall.

You can simply place the strap for the bottom strap next to each other:

But in this case you must level the level using the panels (see photo above).

This is a cumbersome and inaccurate solution. It is better to cut the wood to half thickness and install it carefully as follows:

Secure the side with a nail (preferably galvanized) or a self-tapping screw.

Here are some larger shots to give you an idea:

Another option for a lower belt is an app. The connection in this case is made using angles:

Be sure to treat the bottom straps (or better yet, the entire wood) with antiseptic.

Thus, the wood will be protected from rot, insects and fire.

Main frame of the barn

Vertical posts are attached to the lower belt. This may be a smaller beam (eg 50 × 50 mm) or a plate (eg 100 × 50 mm). The easiest way to attach vertical stands to the bottom tape at the metal corners:

To strengthen the structure (so that the barn is not caught, but stands firmly), trusses (jeeps) are used - these are slabs that are attached to the frame diagonally:

The “hardness” of the frame also depends on the size of the stall.

For small sizes there are literally four racks and several inputs:

The greater the number of stands, the greater:

The main thing to remember is that in this case there is no single option.

We're building a sunroof

Everyone does what they like, so create a frame in such a way that it is permanent and reliable. And how much it will cost, etc. It doesn't matter.

All connections in the frame should be installed on the metal corners using screws - this is the best option.

Find out how you can place a storage roof with your hands.

The 3×6 shed is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on the construction of a cave from 3 to 6 meters, now I decided to add another one. This time he flew over the roof.

First, the foundation. Since the site is located on the Volga-Mati coast (upper terrain, and below there is river sand), he decided to apply a concrete base. Copied caves 600x600x600 mm in the amount of eight pieces.

Warehouse with our own hands - we build a cheap and reliable structure

I mixed the concrete and poured it into the prepared hole. The reinforcement was installed in the concrete (vertically upward) to allow installation in the warehouse.

The platform was made of brick - brick, the next day he measured the level and added where it needed mortar so it was smooth.

Once dry, he began assembling the lower frame of the shed.

For this purpose, a plate measuring 50x200x6000 mm was used.

The vertical frames of the frame are made of 50 × 100 mm panels. Here's a photo of the final shed frame:

As for the roof: in 8 for 3 there were 8 rafters.

I took cars 50x150x5000 mm. The straps are made and attached to the frame with nails. You can fix the metal corners, but this seemed more convenient. Here is the diagram for attaching the rafters:

But the picture of the rafts is closer:

No rings were made since the galvanized roof is 2500 mm.

There were 2 zinc plates on the roof with a slight overlap.

Covering the suction surface from the edge 25×150 mm. The overlay is approximately 2.5 cm thick. Secure with 90 mm galvanized nails. The erased board immediately decided in front of the skin. It seemed that it was easier. And when the board is lit, you won't see any non-existent areas.

In front of the bastard, he first tried the door, and then began to translate the recording.

If anyone is interested in painting with Azure color, impregnation V33.

They bought it from Leroy and left fifteen liters in the barn. I used 2 layers. The color seems to be bad.

And here are the last photos of the 6 by 3 meter barn:

The location of the stables is about a week. Winter villa was ok, no problems.

The first step is to prepare the foundation. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation from brick, as we wrote earlier. During the construction of this barn, a concrete foundation was prepared.

Features of the construction of a barn with a pitched roof measuring 3x6 m at the dacha

For the foundation, holes were made with a depth of 800 mm and a diameter of 200 mm. For the formwork, twisted roofing felt was used, which protruded 500 mm above ground level. The fittings were welded from three rods. The last stage of the foundation is concreting. Use a hydraulic level to ensure the foundation is level. And here is the finished foundation:

Barn frame made of timber

A 100x100 mm beam was taken for the frame.

To ensure that the frame is reliable and does not wobble, a truss is needed. Truss (from Latin firmus - strong) allows you to preserve the geometric shapes of the barn. A 100x50 mm board was used as a truss (in the photo the boards are dark in color - this is the truss).

Barn roof 6×3m

The next stage is lathing the roof of the barn. I used an unedged board 100x25 mm. Corrugated sheets were chosen as the covering.

Sheets of 2500 mm were purchased. Since we don’t need this length, the sheets were cut to 2000 mm. The remains of the cut sheets were later used to cover the foundation of the barn (see last photo).

For the ridge and ebbs, straight sheets of iron were cut and bent as required.

The sheets are attached with an overlap (15-20 centimeters) using self-tapping screws.

Last steps

The outer edges of the timber and the lower frame of the barn were impregnated with waste to protect the wood from rotting. The frame of the shed was upholstered with 150x25 boards with a slight overlap (approximately 20mm).

The next step is painting. A walnut colored impregnation was used.

The first layer was applied with a brush, then two more layers with a spray gun. You can see for yourself what happened:

A 40x100 board was laid on the floor of the barn. The bottom of the barn, as I wrote above, was sealed with the remains of corrugation.

A door was made from the remains of a 100x25 board.

Installed the door, painted and installed windows. Here's what we ended up with:

All that's left is to finish the steps and you're done! I worked alone and only on weekends. There was no construction experience. In the end, building a 6x3 shed on my own took two and a half months.

Looking back, I will say what was done wrong:

It’s better to take ondulin for the roof - it would be much easier than fiddling with corrugated sheets;
It is also easier to make a pitched roof. Although the gable one looks more beautiful;
I decided not to buy the low tides, but made them myself. Due to inexperience, the tides turned out to be high; it was possible to reduce them by another 5 centimeters.

Estimate for the construction of a 6×3 shed

To give you an idea of how much it will cost to build a barn with your own hands, I came up with the following estimate:

Cement - 1500 rubles;
Ruberoid - 530 rubles (2 rolls);
Nails - 1500 rubles;
Beam 100x100x6000 mm - 6,750 rubles (18 pieces);
Beam 100x50x6000 mm - 2200 rubles (12 pieces);
Rough board 25x100x6000 mm - 2860 rubles (45 pieces);
Board 25x150x6000 mm - 12,500 rubles (90 pieces);
Board 40x100x6000 mm - 5000 rubles (33 pieces);
Corrugated sheets 2500mm - 7000 rubles (14 pieces);
Iron sheets 2500mm - 3000 rubles (6 pieces);
Walnut impregnation - 2800 rubles;
White paint - 700 rubles;
Door lock - 220 rubles;
Door hinges - 180 rub.

TOTAL: 46,740 rubles.

I didn't count the windows because I already had them. If you add, for example, PVC windows, the barn will cost about fifty thousand.

Read another report on building a 6x3 m shed.

If your site does not have enough outbuildings to store various utensils and necessary tools, then you can easily build a shed with a pitched roof with your own hands. If many craftsmen have no problems with erecting walls and arranging a lightweight base, then with the roof the situation is a little more complicated. That is why we will tell you in detail how to make a simple pitched roof over a small outbuilding.

A do-it-yourself shed roof on a barn is good not only because it can be done on your own, but also because it has other positive aspects:

Minimum consumption of lumber and their availability are one of the main advantages of the design.
Speed and ease of construction are especially important when building a shed with your own hands.
The flat roof of the utility block perfectly resists wind loads. It is quite durable and reliable.
The weight of the entire structure is light, so you can build a barn from blocks, bricks, wood and other suitable materials. Most often, a frame shed is made, since it is quickly assembled.
To cover the flat roof of a barn, you can use any suitable roofing materials, including the most inexpensive ones (roofing felt, galvanized roofing steel, profiled sheet).

Of course, a single-pitched roof also has its drawbacks, but they are more important for a private house rather than for an outbuilding. So, among the disadvantages are the fact that in such a barn you will not be able to equip an attic, as well as the low aesthetic indicators of a pitched roof. However, we can say with confidence that for a barn all these disadvantages do not matter at all, which is why many projects of temporary and outbuildings are carried out with a shed roof system.

Since the construction of a shed is usually not planned to be made from heavy-duty and massive materials, it is impractical and even dangerous to install a heavy, complex roofing structure on them. If you look at some of the drawings, these buildings are often made of frames. Moreover, the frame of the barn is made of ordinary timber. That is why a light pitched roof for a barn with your own hands is the most suitable option.

Required materials

We will look at how to make a pitched roof using the example of a 3x6 m shed. A suitable drawing of a shed is easy to find online or make yourself. We will not describe the process of constructing the walls and foundation of the structure, but will consider in detail only how to build a pitched roof for this utility block.

When choosing building materials, it is necessary to take into account the design features of the building. Below is a list of materials you will need:

to make the rafter system and the Mauerlat, you need to prepare a beam from coniferous wood, the humidity of which is not higher than 15% (the optimal cross-section of the rafter legs is 0.05x0.15 m, the installation step is 90 cm, the cross-section of the Mauerlat beam should be equal to 0.1x0.1 m) ;

Attention: all wooden elements of the roof frame must be protected from burning and rotting by treating them with antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants.

fasteners (nails and screws);
if the length of the rafter legs is not enough to complete the roof overhangs, then you will need fillies (this is a beam with a cross-section of 0.05x0.12 m, which is attached to the rafters and forms the roof overhang);
waterproofing material (roofing felt or polyethylene film);
boards for making sheathing (it is better to take an unedged board 0.25 cm thick; moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is suitable for making continuous sheathing);
roofing covering.

If you plan to insulate the shed, then you will need thermal insulation material for the roof. It is better to choose mineral wool as roofing insulation. In this case, you will also need to purchase a vapor barrier membrane to protect the insulation from the accumulation of condensation and dampness.

Tip: instead of windows in the barn, you can make gables from translucent structures, for example, polycarbonate. Pediments are the triangular sections of walls under the slopes.

Installation sequence

We will not describe in detail how to properly build the walls of a 3x6 shed with a pitched roof. It is only worth noting that the two opposite longitudinal walls must be of different heights, which will ensure the required roof slope.

The process of constructing a barn with a pitched roof is as follows:

First of all, you need to install the Mauerlat. This beam will allow you to evenly distribute and transfer the load to the walls of the structure. The Mauerlat located on a higher wall is called the ridge plate. Before laying the Mauerlat on concrete or brick walls of a building, they must be isolated from the timber using two layers of roofing felt. Next, the horizontal beam itself is laid. Using a long drill, holes are drilled in the timber and walls. After this, anchors are inserted into the holes in the walls, onto which the timber is secured.
The rafters are installed in the following sequence:
1. The rear or gable rafters are installed first;
2. after this, a rope is stretched between them, along which the intermediate rafter legs are aligned and installed;
3. to lay the rafters in the mauerlat beam, a cut is made (to make it, you need to make a template that will facilitate and speed up the further process);
4. We fasten the rafters to the mauerlat with self-tapping screws or nails driven in a cross direction;
5. Now you can attach fillets to the rafter legs if you planned their installation.

Let's start laying the waterproofing. We roll out the rolled material along the rafters along the lower eaves of the roof and fasten it to the legs using a stapler. We roll out the next strip higher than the first so that there is an overlap of 150 mm. The joints of the two strips are additionally taped.
To create a ventilation gap, which is needed to ventilate the under-roof space and protect the roofing from dampness, we nail counter-battens to the rafters directly on top of the waterproofing carpet. For these purposes, you can take a beam 4 cm high.
After this we carry out the lathing. To make a sparse sheathing for profiled sheets, ondulin, slate or metal tiles, boards must be nailed across the direction of the rafters in increments of 30-40 cm. For soft roofing, wall corrugated sheets or galvanized steel, it is better to make a continuous sheathing from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. At the same time, do not forget to leave a gap of 2-3 mm between the sheets of material to compensate for temperature expansion.
Now you can lay the selected roofing material.
If you are insulating the roof, then the heat-insulating product is placed between the rafters on the inside of the structure. It is desirable that the width of the insulation be slightly larger than the pitch of the rafter system. This will allow the thermal insulation to be laid tightly, without gaps or sagging.
When insulating the roof, be sure to use a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from dampness, dust and moisture rising from the room. The vapor barrier is stapled to the rafters, covering the insulation. In this case, it is necessary to overlap the strips and additionally seal the joint with sealing tape.

The final step can be installing a gutter if you want to make it organized. By the way, this is not necessary for a barn. Such a building may also have unorganized drainage. But if water from the roof flows onto the path or into the ground, and it rains a lot in the region, then an organized roof drainage system will protect the room from dampness. In case of unorganized drainage, the eaves overhang of the roof must be at least 550 mm.

Building your own shed with a pitched roof on your summer cottage will be the best option for organizing the storage of garden tools, tools or a children's bicycle. An important factor here is that the task at hand can easily be accomplished on one’s own. This will save money that can be redirected, for example, to purchasing better materials. Therefore, if you have basic experience in handling tools, then any home craftsman can make a shed with a pitched roof with his own hands.

Reasons for choosing a pitched roof

To begin with, it is necessary to say a few words about the features of this type of organization of the roof of a building and the nuances of work associated with them.

A shed roof is one of the simplest types of roofing, made in the form of a single plane, which is installed at a certain angle to the main frame of the building. For a barn, such a roof would be a more rational option than a gable roof, since it is technologically simpler, faster to construct and requires the purchase of less material. A single-pitch roof structure does not require the construction of complex rafter systems, which not only simplifies the installation process, but also reduces the load on the supporting structures. Among the conventional disadvantages of a pitched roof, we can only mention the somewhat simple appearance of the building.

Types and features of a pitched roof

Despite the fact that a do-it-yourself shed roof for a small barn is simple, there are several common types of shed roofs. The dividing factor may be the presence or absence of attic space, as well as the use (or not) of insulating material. When choosing a suitable option, it is necessary to correlate the specifics of the intended use of the building and its dimensions.

For example, in accordance with fire safety standards, the construction of attic spaces with a height of less than 1.6 m is not allowed. Therefore, if we consider a 3 * 6 shed with a pitched roof, then for the presence of an attic a sufficiently large angle of inclination of the roof will be required. In this case, the wind load on the roof will also increase, so this type of roof has not become widespread. As for roof insulation, if the barn is not planned to be actively used as a work room during the cold season, then you can save on using insulation.

As for the choice of the optimal angle of inclination of the roof, it must be carried out depending on the roofing material used and the specifics of the climatic zone of construction. The fact is that shed roofs are most often sloping planes with an angle of inclination from 10 to 30 degrees, and therefore it is important to ensure adequate removal of precipitation. For example, if the roof is made of corrugated sheets, then the minimum angle of inclination should be 12 degrees. In this case, it is important to take into account the location of the sheets themselves - lay the corrugated sheeting so that the corrugated elements are directed along the slope. Cross laying will prevent the removal of sediment and other contaminants, such as fallen leaves.

Selection of material for a pitched roof

As for what material is best to use to cover the roof of a small barn with your own hands, the market offers a fairly wide selection of options.

Asbestos-cement slate is a traditional and familiar roofing material in our country, which has good performance characteristics. At the same time, it requires careful waterproofing of the roof and places a significant load on the supporting structures, which is important to consider before building a shed with your own hands.

Natural tiles have better properties than slate, but also weigh a lot.

Metal materials – we are talking about corrugated sheets, metal tiles, etc. They provide a sufficient level of protection while being easy to use. The weight of the corrugated sheet is less than slate, but it is prone to condensation when temperatures fluctuate, and therefore requires careful waterproofing.

Bituminous materials have excellent waterproofing characteristics and practically do not put any load on the rafters and frame of the shed, due to their relatively low weight.

What to choose in a specific situation must be decided individually.

Removing precipitation from a pitched roof

The issue of removing precipitation from a pitched roof deserves special attention. The process can be carried out either spontaneously or in an organized manner. In the first case, the natural slope of the roof ensures that precipitation flows down, and it is freely removed from the edge along its entire width. If such a solution to the problem is planned, then this must be foreseen before building the barn and placing it with a slope towards a little-used area. If a drain is used, it is directed towards one of the corners of the building. At the same time, to prevent the negative impact of moisture on the foundation, it is recommended to construct a drainage system.

Installation of a pitched roof

If all preliminary issues have been resolved, then you can begin installing the shed roof with your own hands. To ensure compliance with the necessary technological rules for carrying out work, as well as safety precautions, all work should be divided into several stages and performed sequentially.

Design

Despite the comparative simplicity of manufacture, the initial stage of work should be a drawing of a shed with a pitched roof or a detailed diagram of the necessary structural part of the building. In the project, it is necessary to consider a way to ensure the required plane slope. The traditional option is to use two opposite walls of the barn, having different heights, as support for the rafter system. This issue is considered before building your shed with a pitched roof.

In addition, the slope can be formed using specially assembled structures (trusses) after the construction of the barn is completed. These elements can be purchased ready-made or assembled yourself. They are triangular frame structures, the sides of which form the required slope of the planes. Their use may be in demand when it comes to replacing an old roof with a pitched version, when it is impossible to ensure a difference in the height of the walls.

If you have a sufficient level of qualifications, you can complete the necessary drawings yourself, however, to achieve the best possible result, it is recommended to contact qualified specialists or use ready-made projects that can be found on the Internet.

Installation of the base of the rafter system

The rafter system of a pitched roof is a series of sequentially installed wooden elements that are fixed on both sides to the walls. Moreover, before making a pitched roof, you need to select the material for the shed itself.

If the walls are made of solid material (brick, blocks, etc.), then the rafters must be laid on a special element - the mauerlat. For its manufacture, a wooden beam with a cross-section of 100/200 mm is used. The timber is laid on walls with waterproofing and fixed with anchor bolts.

If we are talking about a completely wooden frame, then the top frame is used as a support for the rafters.

To give the Mauerlat additional resistance to the negative effects of external factors, it is recommended to treat it with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds.

Installation of the rafter system

Now you can begin installing the rafter system. Next, the process of installing it yourself will be given step by step. Based on the specifics of a particular case, some actions may differ, but their general algorithm will remain the same.

In this case, the most suitable option would be to use a wooden beam. Its cross-section is selected based on the length of the elements and is 100/150 mm per 3 m.

Using the thread as a guide, all other elements are installed.

The distance between the rafters is selected taking into account the selected roofing material, and not only its weight, but also its own strength will be important. The roof will need to be cleaned from time to time, and therefore the rafter system must withstand the weight of the material and the weight of the person doing the work. In most cases, the optimal pitch between the rafters of a frame shed will be 1 meter.

Laying waterproofing

When the rafter system is ready, the waterproofing material should be laid. It is secured using a construction stapler, and the material is laid from bottom to top. The waterproofing sheets are secured with an overlap of at least 15 cm, and the joints are taped to ensure the integrity of the sheet.

Installation of counter-lattice

A counter batten is placed on top of the waterproofing layer, which is necessary for installing the roofing material. It provides the structure with additional strength, as well as under-roof ventilation, which is especially necessary for metal roofing materials. If bitumen-based material is laid on the roof of the barn, then the sheathing is filled solid or in increments of no more than 10 cm, and in the case of rolled materials, a plywood base is used.

Installation of roofing material

The final stage of work is laying the roofing material. Regardless of its type, installation is carried out from the bottom up to ensure the free removal of precipitation from the slope plane. After the roof is formed, the elements of the drainage system are installed and the frame shed with a pitched roof can be considered ready.

Carrying out the installation of a pitched roof yourself is possible in most cases. For a more complete understanding of the issue, you can further study thematic videos that can be found on the Internet. If you follow the simple rules for installing a 3*6 shed and pay attention at all stages of the task, the result may well become a source of personal pride.

A barn is a truly necessary outbuilding for any summer cottage or garden plot. It is easy to build it yourself in the shortest possible time. With our advice, this process will go with a bang!

Materials for building a shed - we are looking for inexpensive and durable ones

The building we are interested in is in most cases used for storing a variety of household equipment, building materials, work tools and other small items. In essence, the shed performs a strictly utilitarian function. For this reason, as a rule, no special requirements are put forward to its appearance. For the owner of a suburban area, it is much more important to build a shed quickly and cheaply. And modern technologies make it possible to complete all construction work in a matter of weeks, and even days.

Note that in some cases you want to give your barn an attractive look that matches the style and decoration of a residential building, and harmoniously fit it into the existing landscape design. This task can also be accomplished with relatively small monetary costs. You will simply need to choose cladding that has an affordable price and at the same time quite accurately replicates the appearance of the expensive finishing materials used to furnish the house. Siding is ideal for such purposes. It is available in a variety of textures. You can choose a finish that resembles natural stone, brick, wooden beams, and so on.

The simplest and most inexpensive option for building a utility block is considered. It involves the construction of a special skeleton from metal or wooden elements and its subsequent external cladding with one or another material. With a competent approach to business and choosing a beautiful finish, a frame barn can become a real decoration of a suburban area. It is also important that such a structure can always be transformed and repaired. To do this, you will only need to change the casing without touching the frame itself.

Buildings made of timber and boards are also popular. They also require the construction of a frame frame (wooden), which is then covered with wood products. Such structures can be placed on wide bars or on special pallets, using them instead of a standard foundation. And finishing can be done with the most inexpensive board - unedged (popularly called slab). The disadvantage of such buildings is their fragility. They are used for no more than 5–6 years. Then they have to be built anew.

Durable outbuildings require high construction costs. If you need a fireproof shed that is as reliable as possible, build it out of brick. Such a structure can be used for breeding poultry, animals, or for constructing a full-fledged bathroom or shower stall. Brick structures are installed on solid foundations and last for decades. Brick can be replaced with foam blocks, which are in demand these days. They are easier to work with, they are inexpensive, and have high thermal insulation characteristics. True, the appearance of foam blocks is not the best - the gray color can hardly be called presentable. The problem can be solved simply - by finishing the walls of the building with decorative plaster or siding.

Frame construction is the best option for self-construction

In the vast majority of cases, home craftsmen decide to build frame wooden outbuildings at their dacha. This is quite logical. The structure turns out to be inexpensive and at the same time durable, and has a quite elegant appearance. All work can be done with your own hands without any problems, and the construction itself proceeds quickly. The standard dimensions of such sheds are 3x6 m. We recommend making the roof of the simplest frame structure single-pitched. Its design is simple and understandable to anyone who has minimal experience in carrying out construction work independently.

We will describe the process of erecting a 3x6 m utility building with a pitched roof in our article. To begin with, we present a list of building materials necessary for the construction of a building of this type. We’ll immediately decide on the amount of materials required. To do this, we will draw up a drawing of the barn and its roof. Then we will know exactly how many boards, bars and other products we need. We purchase the following materials:

Six beams 10x10 cm 6 m each and eight 3 m each. These products will be used for the lower and upper trim.
Nine vertical support posts of the already indicated section, 2.5 m each, plus two more for arranging the doorway.
Two dozen boards 4x15 cm. They are necessary for constructing the floor. You can immediately buy OSB boards. These products are ideal for arranging a finished floor base.
Four boards 5x10 cm, 4 m each. We use them to make rafters.
Half a cube of 2.2 x 10 cm boards is the material for sheathing.
Six edged boards 2.5x10 cm, 3 m each. They are installed at the joints of the walls of the barn and its rafter system. In common parlance, such boards are called wind boards.
OSB or particle boards, wood fiber boards for the construction of rough ceilings. Instead of these products, it is allowed to use plywood sheets (multilayer).

All boards and beams must be treated with an antiseptic. And when choosing lumber, we pay attention to the fact that there are no areas with blue spots, large knots, places eaten away by wood-boring insects, and other clearly visible defects. Important point. The roof slope of the described outbuildings is done in different ways. We can cut equal-sized vertical supports installed on the back of the shed to the required length, or extend the front posts using 5x5 cm wooden blocks. Choose the appropriate option yourself. In any case, the result will be identical - the required slope will be provided.

We will also purchase hardware in advance, without which it would be problematic to build a utility unit. Here we take into account the following. If we are going to connect structural elements “joint to joint,” we will need steel strips and angles. But fastenings of the “claw” type are provided with nails. At the corners of the frame, the beams are fixed with metal plates (they are shaped like the letter L). Additionally, we purchase screws.

We choose a place and make a foundation - a reliable foundation for construction

Selecting a site for the construction of a utility structure is a fairly important stage of the planned event. Experts advise placing the shed so that it does not spoil the appearance of the yard (site). The optimal place is behind the house. It is also important to provide free passage to the structure being constructed, since you will be storing a variety of items in it (including quite large ones). One more tip. Try to find a site for an outbuilding on some (at least small) hill. Then you don’t have to worry that during a flood or heavy rainfall, the barn you built with your own hands will flood with water.

Having decided on the location, we begin to build a reliable foundation for the structure. The foundation can be made in any way - slab, pile, strip. It is most rational to equip the last of these. The strip foundation has a high level of strength and reliability. It raises the floor of the building above the ground surface by 0.4–0.5 m and is easily poured without the involvement of specialists. The step-by-step arrangement of the strip base is carried out as follows:

1. Using a thin cord and pegs, we mark the site.
2. We dig a 0.3-meter wide pit with a depth of 0.4–0.5 m.
3. Clear the bottom of the trench and level it well.
4. Pour sand into the ditch, sprinkle it with water, and tamp it down.
5. Place a polyethylene film on the layer of sand.
6. We install wooden formwork along the edge of the prepared ditch. Its height is calculated taking into account the dimensions of the shed basement. We strengthen the walls of the formwork structure with spacers. If this is not done, when pouring concrete there is a possibility that the boards will move apart on the sides.
7. We knit the reinforcement frame (metal rods) with wire and install it in the pit.
8. Pour concrete. We recommend using a dry mixture (sold dry in construction stores, diluted with water) or a ready-made solution (order a concrete truck). You can mix the composition yourself using sand, crushed stone and grade 250 cement, if you know all the proportions.

Pouring concrete should be done in dry weather. It is advisable to supply the entire volume of the solution in one session. If you fill the foundation in parts, with noticeable interruptions in work, air voids are guaranteed to appear in the foundation. They will significantly reduce the strength and reliability of the finished structure.

The concrete mixture hardens within 20–28 days. After this time, you can remove the formwork structure and continue work. We lay waterproofing on the concrete base (no need to spend money on newfangled moisture protectors, we use regular roofing felt). We install 2-3 rows of brickwork on it using a standard method, which involves tying up individual products. Next, along the perimeter of the structure, we lay bars (wood) every 140–150 cm. These elements are needed for installing the lower trim on them.

Brick laying is carried out level. The horizontality of the structure must be strictly observed, otherwise the basement part being built at this stage will not be able to become a reliable support for the frame outbuilding. After installing the last row, we clean off the excess mortar from the masonry, level the seams, and wait 2-3 days for the concrete to harden.

Assembling the frame - a sequence of actions for dummies

We lay two layers of roofing felt sheets on the frozen base part. We take a 10x10 cm beam and begin installing the lower trim. At the corners, we make the joints “in the paw”. We cut grooves in the bars (at the ends). The depth of the latter is half the thickness of the wooden blank, the length is 10 cm. With such dimensions of the recess, we will get a perfectly even angle of the elements to be connected. The strapping is fixed to the embedded products in the brickwork with nails. Important! The fastener is driven in at an angle (diagonally). In this case, the horizontal laying of the strapping is checked with a level after each nail.

Now we are equipping the floor base of the barn. We use logs (boards 5x10 cm), install them every 0.5–0.6 m on the lower beam, on the edge and fix them with nails. We immediately recommend making a subfloor from old lumber or plywood sheets. This will make it easier for us to carry out subsequent work. After completion of construction, the rough foundation can be easily dismantled or covered with other finishing materials.

Next, we attach a 10x10 cm beam to the bottom trim (on the side). We fix it with 15-centimeter nails or L-shaped metal fasteners. We install vertical posts on the beam secured in this way every 150–200 cm. Additionally, we secure the supports using jibs (4x10 cm boards) mounted diagonally. After we install the top beam, these elements are dismantled. There are no problems with this operation.

We need to figure out the rules for installing vertical posts for doors that will lead into the barn. Everything is simple here. If the door structure is in the middle, we mount two vertical supports. There is another, economical option. We are planning to install a one-way door. Then the function of one of the racks will be performed by a vertical corner beam. This means that you will only need to mount one support for the door. Now we install the beam of the upper frame by analogy with the lower one and proceed to the construction of the roof.

Shed roof - decent quality with apparent simplicity

We are building a utility block further. Since we chose a shed roof structure, we need to build up the front of the shed until we get a slope of 20-25°. We have already described how to do this (trimming the rear supports or building up the front ones with bars). After this, we arrange the rafter system. We use 5x10 cm boards. We place them on edge and hammer in nails using an oblique face (the rafters can also be fixed using iron staples). The length of the rafters is taken such that a 40–50-centimeter roof overhang is provided (on each side of the building). In our case, the length of the boards is 4 m. You can take products of a slightly shorter length (3.8–3.9 m).

We make lathing on the roof. Its type (solid or with breaks) depends on the material that will be used as a roof covering. If the roof is sheathed with boards, we make the sheathing sparse. And when installing soft coverings, as well as bitumen shingles, it is better to equip a continuous structure. Then we lay waterproofing membranes or roofing felt on the sheathing, fasten the moisture-proof material and install the selected roofing material.

All that remains is to give the constructed structure a finished look - to sheathe its outside with suitable products. Frame sheds are usually finished with planed boards or profiled sheets (budget options) or clapboard. In the latter case, you will need to spend a little more money. The lining will have to be attached to some kind of base. For example, on 9.5 mm thick OSB boards. The inside of the barn need not be finished at all. It would be wiser to install shelves and racks for storing various things, install electrical sockets, and install light in order to make the process of using the structure as comfortable as possible.

A frame-type structure made of timber and boards with a pitched roof has been erected. You can use it! However, remember that it is recommended to carefully inspect the barn every year. If any defects are identified (holes in the roof, walls, rotting flooring), they should be eliminated immediately. In this case, the structure will serve you for many years.

The 3x6 shed is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on, now I decided to add another one. This time a barn with a pitched roof.

Let's start with the foundation. Since the site is located on the banks of the Mother Volga (the upper layer of earth, and below it is river sand), I decided to pour a concrete foundation. I dug eight holes 600x600x600 mm. He mixed the concrete and poured it into the finished holes. I installed reinforcement in the concrete (vertically upward) so that I could then attach the platform for the shed to it.

I made the platform out of brick - I laid out the brickwork, the next day I measured it level and added cement mortar where needed to make it level.

Once dry, I began to assemble the lower frame of the shed.

For this, a board 50x200x6000 mm was used. The vertical posts of the frame are made of 50×100 mm boards. Here is a photo of the finished shed frame:

As for the roof: a 6 by 3 barn required 8 rafters. I took rafters 50x150x5000 mm. Cuts are made on the rafters and fastened to the frame with nails. You can also attach it with metal corners, but it seemed more convenient this way. Here is the diagram for fastening the rafters:

Here's a closer photo of the rafters:

I did not do any lathing, since the roof is galvanized 2500 mm. The roof took 2 sheets of galvanized steel with a slight overlap.

Shed cladding from edged boards 25x150 mm. The overlap is about 2.5cm. Fastened with galvanized nails 90mm. I decided to paint the board right away, before covering it. It seemed easier this way. And when the board dries, the unpainted areas will not be visible.

At the front of the barn, I first tried on the door, then began to plank it.

If anyone is interested, I painted it with Azure paint, impregnation V33. Bought in Leroy, it took about fifteen liters for the shed. I applied 2 layers. The paint seems to be good.

And here are the final photos of the 6 by 3 meter shed:

The construction of the shed took about a week of leisurely work. The barn stood fine over the winter, no problems were found.