Make scaffolding yourself. DIY scaffolding

When constructing walls or exterior finishing scaffolding is used in buildings. This design makes it possible to safely work at height and keep it at hand. necessary tools and stock of materials used.

Types of scaffolding

Despite the fact that scaffolding comes in many types, their structures contain identical parts that serve the same purpose:

Vertical supports.
Ties connecting supports horizontally and vertically.
Cross members.
Flooring.
Support slopes.
Handrails.
Stairs.

Material for production

In the manufacture of scaffolding they use:

lumber;
metal.

Wood construction is much cheaper than metal, but it can only be used for two three assemblies. In the future, it is only suitable for “throwing away”.

Scaffolding made from metal pipes, although much more expensive than wooden ones, are not limited in use. They are easy to dismantle and move as needed. In addition, scaffolding made from pipes can be increased in height, complementing the tiers.

Making scaffolding from wood

To make scaffolding from wood and pallets with your own hands, you must first develop drawings and determine dimensions.

There is no need to invent anything in this regard. Many years of practice have independently determined and established dimensions that are convenient to use:

maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
the distance between supports can vary from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
The width of the working platform is 1 meter.

Manufacturing of scaffolding

Step-by-step production scaffolding with your own hands:

On a flat surface of the ground, two supports are laid out, preferably from timber, but it is also possible from a fiftieth board, parallel to each other, equal in height.
The supports are fastened horizontally with crossbars, on which the work platform will subsequently be laid.
The resulting two fastened structures are installed vertically opposite each other and connected diagonally and horizontally by crossbars.
Boards are laid and secured onto the horizontal crossbars, which will subsequently serve as flooring.
To fix the scaffolding, side supports are installed.
A cranial block is nailed onto the supports, which will act as a railing.
On last stage a ladder for climbing is installed and fixed.

If you need to install two or more sections, then they are connected to each other wide board, which is packed onto adjacent supports. To prevent nails from splitting, you must first drill holes for them.

Specifics of manufacturing scaffolding from pipes

When starting to make collapsible scaffolding from pipes with your own hands, you need to know that in terms of their design data they are identical to wooden scaffolding. The difference between them is represented by adapters, which are used to increase the height of the structure.

Detailing for assembling one metal section

To assemble one section you will need:

Profiled pipe for supports 40x40 mm - 4 pcs. 1.5 m each.
Profiled pipe for crossbars - 4 pcs. 1 m each.
Thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 4 pcs. 2 meters for screed diagonally.
Profiled pipe 35x35 mm - 8 pcs. 10 cm each, which will play the role of adapters.
Profiled pipe 35x35 for railings - 1 piece 2 - m.
Steel plate for thrust bearings 10x10 cm, thickness 3 mm - 4 pieces.
To connect the crossbars diagonally to the frame, you will need 10 bolts with nuts and washers.

Assembly of metal scaffolding of one level

To assemble the structure, you must follow the instructions: how to make scaffolding correctly.

Assembly of scaffolding from pipes includes the following operations:

The scaffolding supports are secured to the OSB sheet using clamps.
Cross members are welded horizontally to the supports using welding.
Adapters measuring 5 cm are welded to the upper end of the racks.
Having lifted the racks with crossbars from the shield, they must be rotated 90 degrees, laid back on the shield and secured to the shield with clamps.
The edges and middle of the pipe, intended for diagonal stretching, are flattened and a slot for bolts is drilled.
Two diagonal crossbars are tightened in the center with a bolt, applied to the racks and the location for drilling is determined.
The crossbars are secured to the posts with bolts and tightened with nuts.
Holes are drilled on the supports and handrails and bolted together.
Thrust bearings are welded to the base of the pipes.
The finished structure is installed vertically.
Boards are laid on the side crossbars, which serve as the base of the working platform.

Photos of how to make scaffolding can be seen below.

It is important to remember that diagonal crossbars must be secured on one side of the structure, and horizontal ones on the opposite side. Then during assembly they will not interfere with each other.

Photos of DIY scaffolding

Note!

From this article you will learn how to properly collect wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding - temporary or permanent system supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rental is possible large volume works (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to tie greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
Always install handrails with inside racks.
Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
The pitch of the racks is from 1 to 2 m, minimum thickness flooring 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by optimal step(1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a brace.
We prepare required amount"envelopes".
Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

Install the handrail and front board.
If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building construction expensive, and the price of a tower with a working height of 8-10 meters is very steep. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal constructions It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, engage in welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility room. Experienced builders They will say that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to bother with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. A quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction site.

DIY scaffolding for the home.

How to make scaffolding from boards

Before you start DIY wooden structures, it is necessary to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

Length – 5 m;
Width – 1 m;
Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as a basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to practical experience users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I used it myself attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
A second board is placed parallel to it;
They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and with alternating signs and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of the good board will have to be thrown away or used for rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

All photos from the article

When conducting various works at height - from laying walls to cladding the facade or applying plaster, the construction of structures is required that will allow you to carry out work comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.

Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which are prefabricated modular systems, which can have very different sizes, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards; this is the option we will consider in the article.

What you need for work

Before you build scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:

Racks	For them, either a board measuring 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will bear the main load and support the entire structure, so you should use only high-quality lumber without large knots, damage from woodworms and rot, this is very important for ensuring safety
Flooring and lintels	For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used; it is important that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary)
Spacers	Elements that impart rigidity and preserve the geometry of the structure being built are made from boards 30-32 mm thick; it is also used to create fences, which are mandatory to ensure a safe working process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or trip on the scaffolding
Fasteners	Either nails or self-tapping screws of large thickness are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all connections. Can also be used modern version– mounting angles and plates, with their help the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, and besides, the price of these elements is low

Important!
Don’t forget about the tool, as you will need to cut wood, hammer in nails or tighten screws, as well as take measurements; the easiest way to do this is to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.

The working process

The instructions on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards are quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, this is where we will begin to consider the issue.

Basic design requirements

There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the scaffolding you collect and ensures the highest safety:

The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with longer spans the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
The width of the decking to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, since the stability of the system will suffer;
Maximum safe height structures - 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the same amount is maximum length lumber, and building up elements is not recommended.

Stages of work

The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a certain sequence:

First you need to connect the first 4 racks, to do this, first the long side is fastened together, this is done using diagonal struts, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which all the same struts are connected end sides, then the resulting structure must be installed and checked for stability; if necessary, reinforcement is made with the help of additional jumpers and perforated corners;

Next you need to secure the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be carried out. It is important to calculate everything correctly to ensure the convenience of the process; if two rows of flooring are used, two rows of jumpers are made accordingly; they will also serve as elements providing rigidity; to further strengthen the support, it makes sense to attach them to corners with stiffening ribs;
The flooring is arranged along fixed lintels, for its construction, only a reliable board without cracks or damage is taken, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the required length so that unnecessary parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fastened using self-tapping screws, since they cause the wood to crack much less, and fixation is obtained much better;

Next you need to attach the fencing elements, their location directly depends on the location of the flooring. The general rule is that the elements should not be lower than waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail two rows of boards for even greater security. Here lumber with a thickness of at least 30 mm is used so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
The next stage is the installation of supporting elements, their number and configuration depend on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the scaffolding and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - install as many supports as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well on the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;

Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: one end of the block is fixed on the stand, and the other on the wall.

Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. Although such homemade auxiliary structures at a construction site help save money, their safety and practicality remain in question. In our article we will tell you how to make wooden scaffolding and carry out comparative analysis traditional inventory forests and these structures.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding

Construction methods

By making temporary structures yourself, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:

structures for repair and finishing works with a small load on the flooring;
Products for masonry work with high load capacity.

Depending on the materials, handmade woods are:

metal;
wooden.

We will consider the manufacturing process of each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out according to all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study the regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.

Of course, you can buy homemade scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, their reliability and compliance with the requirements of current regulatory documents.

DIY scaffolding made of wood

The most important thing in the manufacture of wooden scaffolding is maintaining the verticality of the rack elements or the required angle of inclination when making low structures from boards. In any case, when making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. This is the only way you can be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards

To make vertical load-bearing elements of such structures, it is better to take boards 4 cm thick. But when using 100x100 mm timber, the structure will be much stronger and more reliable. To ensure that the product is stable and cannot accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal braces in each span. It is better to mount diagonals so that they are fixed to several racks and to the walls of the object at once.

Homemade wooden scaffolding has one undeniable advantage– scaffolding material can be used for other purposes after the structure is dismantled. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will allow you to save your money and time, and also get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully complies with all the requirements of regulatory documentation.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

The attached drawings for DIY wooden scaffolding will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in this order:

We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, all that remains is to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation must be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. To give you an idea of the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm. So, you will need 6 meters of edged boards with a cross-section of 20x4 cm to assemble the working flooring, as well as 36 m of timber with a cross-section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. We can then calculate the total cost of homemade scaffolding based on the price of one cubic meter wood.

A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

DIY scaffolding made from pipes

To execute this type auxiliary structures with your own hands, you must use steel pipes diameter 4-6 cm with large thickness walls. To connect tubular elements into one structure, you can use clamp fasteners. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding made from pipes can be found on the Internet.

Typically, homemade temporary steel structures are no more than 6-8 m high, since difficulties arise in purchasing and delivering a long pipe to the installation site. Insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage of self-made metal scaffolding. If you need to do work at height, it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.

DIY scaffolding drawings

Making scaffolding with your own hands is justified only when constructing a small country house, dacha or cottage. For professional developers and large construction companies it is most advisable to purchase ready-made kits auxiliary equipment, which will be durable, reliable and safe, and most importantly, can be reused.

You can also weld metal scaffolding with your own hands rather than fasten it with clamps. However, in this case you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be disassembled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted to the characteristics of the object under construction: it is impossible to change the height of the flooring or change the pitch of the posts.

But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. You can also find drawings online that explain how to make your own pin scaffolding.

What to choose?

To understand what is better, do-it-yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If it is necessary to erect a large structure, a large team of workers will work, and significant loads on the flooring are expected, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also allows you to save money, just like structures made by yourself.

Scaffolding from pallets with your own hands

Do-it-yourself scaffolding: advantages

Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolding costs at least 150 rubles. behind square meter equipment. Homemade scaffolding will cost much less, especially if you have the materials to make them.
If you require temporary structures for disposable during construction own home, then hand-made scaffolding for a dacha will be the best option.
You can make stronger scaffolding with your own hands from profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to specifically buy a pipe and make scaffolding out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
Another opportunity to save money would be to purchase ready-made homemade scaffolding. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding is distinguished by reasonable prices and excellent quality.

Disadvantages of homemade scaffolding:

From the proposed photos you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:

Factory scaffolding can be assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. The homemade scaffolding can take a whole day to assemble.
Difficulties in constructing scaffolding with your own hands are not in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all components are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, attached detailed instructions assemblies.
The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much greater than that of prefabricated steel structures.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):