Construction technology from timber of different sizes. Assembling a house from profiled timber yourself How to properly assemble profiled timber

One of the most suitable materials for individual construction is wood. Wood is available, easy to work with, and in terms of cost, lumber has a more justifiable price compared to other building materials. Another advantage of wood is its relative lightness, which reduces the cost of building a strong foundation for a house.

These and other advantages of wood have led to the fact that wooden private construction is relevant and in demand. And if there is demand, supply also appears. Moreover, the natural disadvantages of wood as a building material are offset by complex technologies for manufacturing modern lumber, one of which is.

Advantages of a house made of profiled timber

can be quickly built. A company (team) of three people, having minimal skills in using carpentry and plumbing tools, is able to assemble a box at home within a season;

The log house is environmentally friendly and has a unique microclimate. In addition, good air flow through the wood will ensure a sufficient level of air exchange;

timber is an excellent heat insulator and allows you to conserve heat and save on heating;

no need to immediately invest a lot of money in construction and finishing. These processes can be separated in time;

a house made of timber has natural beauty, presentability and style.

Stages of building a house made of profiled timber

We will briefly list all the stages of construction, and dwell in detail on the key ones that directly relate to working with timber.

Step-by-step instructions for building a house from profiled timber with your own hands:

Stage number	Name	Content
1.	Design	- standard project of a house made of profiled timber; - individual project (unique).
2.	Foundation	- determination of type (tape, pile, slab); - calculation of characteristics; - excavation; - formwork installation; - installation of reinforcement frame; - pouring concrete; - strength gain.
3.	Construction of a box house	- waterproofing; - the first crown.
4.	Subfloor	- fits during the construction of walls.
5.	Box assembly	- subsequent crowns; - interior partitions; - interfloor ceilings.
6.	Installation of the rafter system	- roof truss system; - insulation of the under-roof space; - laying roofing material.
7.	Installation of individual elements	- installation of columns, supports and other vertical elements; - installation of window and door blocks; - arrangement of stairs to the second floor (attic, attic).
8.	Interior finishing	- connection of communications; - decoration (cladding) of the premises.
9.	External wall treatment	- grinding; - treatment with antiseptic, primer, fire retardant, painting.

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Stage 1. Design

It is impossible to build a house from profiled timber without a project. Having a project is a direct guide to action. But first things first.

First of all, you need to decide, or focus on a ready-made one (standard, free).

standard project tied to the area and reflects the wishes of the person who ordered it. But such a project will cost much less. Considering that the standard length of the timber leaves its mark on the size of the premises, we can say that there are not so many different variations. Therefore, most users purchase, or download from the network, a ready-made project and make the necessary adjustments to it;

individual project is being developed from scratch, the estimated cost is given in the table

When developing a new one or making adjustments to a finished project, you need to take into account the factors indicated in the table:

№	Factor	Description
1.	Type of residence: permanent or seasonal	Affects the choice of beam cross-section and the need for insulation
2.	Material	Humidity: Naturally dried timber (humidity 15-18%); - (humidity 12-15%) Geometry: Straightforward; - curved. 100x100 - for gazebos, outbuildings, houses for seasonal residence; - 150x150 - for a permanent residence with insulation, baths; - 200x200 - for permanent residence, luxury homes. Profile configuration: German (“comb”) does not require the use of insulation; - Finnish (Scandinavian) makes it possible to use rolled thermal insulation material..
3.	House area	- convenience of room location; - number of storeys; - installation location and staircase parameters; - assignment of rooms; - the number of simultaneous residents and their specific needs (for example, pensioners, disabled people); - possible number of guests.
4.	Location of the house	- distance from communications; - distance from other objects on the site (reservoir, sewerage); - landscape design of the site; - soil type, freezing depth; - location of access roads; - orientation to the cardinal direction (important if there is a significant glazing area). Affects the energy efficiency of the home; - distance from the boundaries of the site.

The result of the design stage will be the availability of design documentation approved by the relevant authorities, namely:

List of main documents:

Foundation drawing (with a detailed description of the composition, laying depth, material layout, etc. As well as detailed data on the soil, groundwater, etc.).
Building plan (prepared based on the foundation drawing, but also with a detailed description).
Floor plan, detailed plan (partitions, windows, doors, stoves, fireplaces, etc. are indicated in detail).
Beam planking (this is a detailed cross-sectional drawing of the walls of a house. Based on planking, you can place an order for the production of timber (house kit for the house)).
Specification of every detail of the house.
Roof drawing, with a detailed description of the rafter system and all layers.
Final view of the house.

Calculation of timber for a house

At the design stage, the required amount of lumber is calculated. The calculation is based on the scattering specified in the project.

As already noted, the construction of timber houses can be carried out by using moldings or marked parts from a house kit.

The table compares approaches to construction, which is better, a prefabricated house or on-site installation (moldings)

Factor	Moldings	Domokomplekt
Design complexity	Possibility to implement any foreign project by selecting parts from timber locally	A kit for a complex project is more expensive, plus, not every factory will undertake to produce
Possibility to make adjustments to the project	Easier, cheaper, faster	Impossible, a house kit made from profiled timber is made for a specific project
Construction time	Significant (2-6 months)	Shortened (up to 1-2 months)
Price	From 8 thousand rubles. per sq.m.	From 11 thousand rubles. per sq.m. (depending on the complexity of the project)
Risks	- exposure to external factors during storage; - the risk of damage to the timber when cutting or arranging a bowl; - risk of deformation; - the risk of additional costs (due to errors in calculations and manufacturing).	- the risk of missing markings (checked when paying for the house kit); - the risk of receiving poorly made bowls due to poorly configured equipment in production.
Abuse	Workers may inflate prices, citing the complexity of the project and the difficulty of cutting out the bowls. There is a risk of generating a significant amount of waste.	None.

When building a house with your own hands, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of timber needed for work, because... shortages and excesses entail additional cash costs.

The easiest option is to contact the seller (manufacturer). When purchasing lumber, the seller usually does not take money for settlement. But, it should be remembered that the seller tends to round up the amount of timber, which, given its cost per cubic meter. quite expensive.

The second most difficult and risky option is to use a calculator for calculating timber for a house and set the parameters for calculation. This method is quite accurate, although it is not without its drawbacks. These include: defective timber, failure to take into account the shrinkage of the house, and trimming errors.

The most difficult, but also reliable, is independent calculation of planking. To do this, a sketch of the house is made, dimensions are applied to it, and the amount of material is calculated manually. This way you can calculate the number of units of timber of the required length. To the number obtained as a result of the calculation, you need to add 5-7% for trimming, low-quality timber.

Note. A good profiled beam has clearly defined parameters and is cut to within 1 mm, which allows you to be confident in the accuracy of the calculations.

The choice of section of profiled timber for building a house is determined according to SNiP II-3-79. The calculation for Moscow according to the standards of the specified document is given in the table:

Note. When buying timber for building a house, you need to pay attention to the presence of a cut, which is designed to reduce the likelihood of cracking of the timber.

Stage 2. Foundation for a house made of profiled timber

Compensation for shrinkage of timber houses

Shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber is a natural process caused by the properties of wood. Drying the timber naturally or in a chamber allows you to reduce the moisture content of the wood and reduce the percentage of shrinkage. But it cannot be completely eliminated. Shrinkage is 3-5% for chamber-drying profiled timber and 8% for natural drying timber.

Taking into account this feature of profiled timber, construction companies offer two types of construction of houses from profiled timber:

shrinking. It involves performing the work in two stages. First, the box is built, and after a year and a half of inactivity, they begin to install a warm circuit (windows, doors), stairs, do interior decoration, etc.;

Full construction. In this case, the work is carried out in one go, and the installation of elements is carried out in compliance with the requirements for shrinkage compensation.

Stage 7. Installation of individual elements

Do-it-yourself construction of a house from profiled timber is usually carried out under shrinkage. But if there is a need to quickly move into a house, then you need to adhere to the following recommendations when installing structural and decorative elements, which, unlike walls, shrink to different heights and at different rates:

Window and door openings.

They are formed by installing a frame into a casing box (casing, casing). Thanks to the sliding frame design and compensation gap, windows and doors do not deform when the house shrinks.

Note. When installing doors and windows, polyurethane foam is not used, because... it hardens and is not flexible enough. Natural insulation materials wrapped in vapor-permeable film are used.

Columns, pillars, racks, supports and other vertical elements.

They are installed on adjusting systems - jacks (shrinkage compensators), which will allow you to equalize different amounts of shrinkage.

Roof elements.

The rafter legs are attached to the upper crown using sliding elements.

As for the installation of sliding fastening elements at the installation site of the ridge, opinions are divided here. Some masters advise doing it. Others focus on the sufficiency of one sliding connection along the upper crown.

Ladder.

It is recommended to install this element after the timber house has shrunk. At least a year after construction, when the main shrinkage has occurred. Installation is carried out as follows: the base of the staircase (string or stringer) is attached to the ceiling also using sliding elements.

Stage 8. Interior decoration of a house made of profiled timber

Finishing work, for example, installation of a frame for drywall, is also recommended after shrinking a house made of profiled timber. However, using sliding fasteners will allow you to start working sooner.

There is no point in doing plastering work or laying tiles on timber walls. These materials are difficult to deform during shrinkage, which leads to cracks or shedding of the material.

Stage 9. External wall treatment

Do not forget that a house made of profiled timber needs protection from external factors; for this, after construction, antiseptics and fire retardants are applied to the walls. The frequency of their application is determined by the manufacturer of the product, and is usually 3-5 years.

Good reviews of these materials:

Fire-retardant compounds:

Phenylax. Cost 650 rubles/6 kg.
Cost 440 rubles/1.1 l.;
NEOMID 450-1. Cost 1,339 rubles/10 l.;
OZONE-007. Cost 4,990 rubles/48 kg;
Senezh OgneBio Prof. Cost 1,790 rubles/23 kg.

Antiseptics:

Aquatex Primer. Cost 2,090 rubles/10 l.
Nortex-Transit (concentrate). Cost 8,123 rubles/19 kg. This composition is transportable, i.e. intended only for processing wood during transportation or storage. It is not recommended to cover finished walls, because... it does not penetrate the wood structure, providing only superficial protection.
Senezh. Cost 750 rub/10 kg.

Impregnations for protecting and tinting wood:

Krasula varnish. Cost 2,700 rub./11 kg;
Senezh Aquadecor. Cost 2,680 rubles/9 kg.

Construction of a house from profiled timber - video

Cost of building a house from profiled timber

The construction of a house from timber on a turnkey basis or with your own hands consists of such factors as:

material;
fare;
consumables;
complexity of the project;
house dimensions;
project cost;
payment for the services of a construction team, if they are hired to perform any work or consultations;
costs of obtaining permits for connecting communications, etc.

Conclusion

We hope that this instruction explains in sufficient detail how to build a house from profiled timber on your own, and the resulting result will delight more than one generation of users.

The environmental friendliness of wood and the microclimate inside the house make wooden houses very popular. Wood retains heat well, looks great and is not expensive. Currently, several types of timber are produced.

Types of timber

Conventional timber is produced on a circular saw by cutting 2-4 parts from a log. Then the timber is dried naturally or in drying chambers.

Glued laminated timber is produced by gluing together dried boards. Then the resulting material is processed on profiling or rounding machines. As a result, the timber is very strong, does not crack over time, and a house built from laminated timber practically does not shrink. Perhaps its only drawback is the high price.

The most inexpensive and easiest to install is profiled timber. Profiled timber is made from coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch and cedar. Unlike ordinary timber, it has a groove(s) on one side and a tenon(s) on the opposite side. The grooves are made to simplify the assembly of the house and provide a tighter and better connection. The remaining two sides are planed smooth, either rounded to resemble a log, or have a slight chamfer.

To build a country house from profiled timber, you should pay attention to its humidity. It is best to purchase dried timber with a moisture content of no more than 20%. It is easier to build walls from dry material and it will not move after assembly. After purchasing a building material, in order to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture, you should not allow it to be stored for a long time, but immediately begin assembling the box at home.

If you decide to use timber with natural moisture, then it is best to buy material that was harvested in winter, since the movement of sap during this period stops and there is no excess moisture in the wood.

Project

The house design is chosen based on personal ideas about what country housing should be like, and, of course, financial capabilities. You can buy the project from the relevant companies or draw it yourself. But in any case, it is necessary to coordinate it with the administration of the area where the house is planned to be built and obtain all the necessary permits. After obtaining permission, you must contact the woodworking enterprise where profiled timber is produced and order the amount of building material corresponding to the project.

Foundation

In the meantime, the material is being prepared in production, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for the future country house. When purchasing a ready-made house project, there should be no problems with choosing the type of foundation. And when developing a project yourself, it is necessary to calculate all the pros and cons of different types of foundation. The most preferred type of foundation for a house with year-round use is the strip type. This foundation is reliable, able to withstand the load of a two-story house made of timber, and when building it with your own hands, it is not that expensive.

So, the first thing you need to do is determine the location on the site for construction and carry out the markings. Houses look beautiful when the foundation (basement) protrudes slightly beyond the wall, so the pegs need to be driven 5-10 cm further (to make the foundation wider) than the size of the house itself. Of course, this will entail additional costs for concrete, but it will give not only a beautiful view, but also an even distribution of the load on the foundation from the house. The inside of the foundation should also protrude beyond the wall. The floor joists will subsequently rest on the internal ledge. Let's give a simple example: under a house made of timber 150 mm wide, it is necessary to pour a foundation 300 mm wide, the outer part of which will protrude beyond the wall by 50 mm, and the inner part by 100 mm.

We mark the perimeter of the house by stretching ropes between the pegs. If the house has internal walls made of timber of the same size as the external ones, then under them it is necessary to pour the same foundation as the main one. A trench is dug with a width equal to the width of the foundation and a depth of 70-80 cm. You should not dig a wide trench; in the future, this can lead to inconvenience in installing the formwork, and even to a simple waste of concrete. It is necessary to make a sand cushion under the foundation. To do this, the bottom of the dug trench is covered with 15-20 cm of sand and compacted well with a tamper or by pouring copious amounts of water.

Formwork assembly

The formwork consists of wooden panels assembled from edged or unedged boards 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide. A sufficient height of the foundation from the ground level is three boards assembled together, that is, 45 cm. It is not worth saving and making the foundation lower for a wooden house, since otherwise the lower crowns of the log house will get wet from the splashes of falling raindrops and fumes from the ground, and in spring-winter period - from melting snow.

After assembling the shields, they are installed in place of the dug trench opposite each other and fastened together. In the upper part, the boards are secured using a block, which is placed on top of the formwork and screwed with one screw to one board, and another to the other. In the middle and at the bottom, the shields are fastened together with thick wire. To do this, each shield is drilled opposite each other in the place of transverse fastening of the boards, a thick knitting wire is inserted into the resulting holes, the ends of which are twisted together from the outside. Inside the formwork, a thick screwdriver or a long nail is inserted between the wires and twisted together, controlling the distance between the panels with a jig. After twisting the wire, the conductor is taken out, and a firmly fastened formwork is obtained, which does not require side support pegs. After installing all the panels and assembling the formwork, it is necessary to check its horizontalness using a laser or water level.

Expert opinion! It is best to immediately level the formwork and pour concrete, leveling it along its upper edge. In this case, we immediately get a perfectly level foundation horizontally and will avoid further problems with its leveling.

Now you need to lay and tie the reinforcement. For the foundation of a house, it is best to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. For a foundation with a width of 300 mm and a total height of 1 meter, three reinforcement belts of two rods each will be sufficient. If the reinforcement turns out to be short and you have to add more, then the overlap between each other should be at least 30 times the diameter of the rod itself. That is, if 12-diameter reinforcement is used, then the overlap should be 12*30=360 mm. The reinforcement is connected to each other with knitting wire.

Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to provide places in the foundation where there will be holes for ventilation of the subfloor. Asbestos-cement pipes are usually used for these purposes. They are sawed off to the size of the foundation and installed inside the formwork. To prevent the pipes from floating during the concrete pouring process, they are secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

All preparatory work has been completed and concrete can be poured. During and after pouring, it is necessary to “tap” the formwork with a hammer. This is done to release air from the concrete. After pouring, the upper part of the foundation is leveled with a trowel.

In the summer, the formwork can be removed after three days and after two weeks the walls of the house can be erected from profiled timber.

Assembling the walls of the house

During the construction of the foundation, materials, or rather profiled timber, were already manufactured in production and delivered to the site. Now you need to assemble the box of the house as quickly as possible and cover it with a roof.

We lay waterproofing material on the foundation and place the first crown (lower trim) of the house on it. For the first crown of the house, you can use ordinary timber.

Further, the installation process is similar to assembling a children's construction set. The beams are laid on top of each other and are fastened together with wooden or metal dowels to prevent displacement. To do this, the timber must be drilled and a dowel inserted into the resulting hole.

Thus, several rows are fastened at once. Insulation must be laid between the rows.

In the corners, the timber can be connected both with and without remainder. This point can be resolved at the stage of timber production, at the factory, and you can order the most suitable corner connection option, or you can do it yourself. In any case, in order to avoid heat loss, the corner connection must be warm and made using a tongue-and-groove system.

If the house has two floors, then upon completion of the construction of the first floor, interfloor beams of preferably large cross-section (150*150 mm) are laid on top of the walls, at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other. Next, the process continues in the same order as during the construction of the walls of the first floor.

Roof installation

After completing the construction of the walls, the installation of the rafter system begins. Most often, country houses have gable roofs with an inclination angle of at least 30°. 150*50 mm boards are used as rafters. They are assembled in the shape of the letter A and installed on the walls. First, the outer rafters are placed, a guideline (strong thread) is pulled between them, and then all the rest. The rafters are attached to the wall using corners or 300 mm nails. In the case of an insulated roof, a vapor barrier material is stretched along the rafters, and then a wooden sheathing is installed. A ventilated gap must be left between the sheathing and the vapor barrier.

Why nail the counter batten along the rafters, and then the sheathing itself. Sheet roofing material (corrugated sheets, metal tiles) can already be laid on such a sheathing. And for a soft roof you will have to make a solid base of plywood.

Interior decoration

The box is under the roof, you can move inside the almost finished house. The initial task is to make the floors. To do this, floor joists are laid on the protruding part of the foundation at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

You should not save on them and purchase 150*150 timber for these purposes. We nail 150*50 mm boards to the wall on one side and the other, and arrange the subfloor.

We lay vapor barrier material between the beams, and then insulation. We cover the insulation on top with a vapor barrier material, provide a ventilated gap and lay the floorboard. We obtain the gap by hammering a block onto the joists. Insulation of interfloor ceilings occurs in the same way.

A house made of profiled timber with your own hands will shrink. Therefore, all finishing work, in addition to those described by you, must be carried out only after complete shrinkage.

Depending on the thickness of the selected timber, further costs for its heating and the degree of its further insulation depend. Profiled timber is produced planed and does not require additional finishing except antiseptic treatment and painting.

All photos from the article

The technology for constructing log houses, as well as houses made of round timber, has a number of features related to the specifics of the building material. For example, in the project it is necessary to take into account the significant shrinkage of the house; also, a lot depends on whether the house from beams was assembled correctly. Given the many nuances, this issue is worth considering in more detail.

General stages of log house construction

Assembling wooden houses from timber is only one of the stages of building a house; in addition, the construction technology includes such stages as:

foundation construction - there is no point in considering this stage in detail, it is only worth noting that a reinforced strip foundation is suitable for a 2-story house, and a columnar one or a version with a grillage may be sufficient for one-story buildings;

Next comes the direct assembly of the timber from the log house, the masonry along the crowns is carried out, and here the execution of the work may differ in detail. Some prefer to use dowels for greater strength and rigidity of the walls, others use profiled timber without dowels. This stage is discussed in more detail below;

Note! Profiled solid timber usually undergoes kiln drying, so it is ideal for building a house. Its cost can be considered a small disadvantage, but the increased price is justified - after all, the buyer receives timber with minimal moisture, which reduces the shrinkage period and the likelihood of wood cracking.

then the roof is built and the house is allowed to stand. The time it takes for a house to “sit” varies greatly depending on the construction conditions, the type of wood, the type of lumber and even the time of its harvesting;

The final interior decoration of the house, installation of windows and doors can be done after the house has completely settled. In order to at least roughly navigate the timing, you can use a moisture meter; the average moisture content of the timber should not be higher than 20-25%.

Note! If deadlines are running out, then laminated veneer lumber can save the situation. Assembling a house from laminated veneer lumber does not require the house to stand for a long time; this is not necessary since the timber itself is glued together from several previously well-dried boards.

Finished timber houses

If cost does not matter, then you can order a ready-made log house. That is, the question of how a house made of timber is assembled will not have to be decided; specialists will first assemble it in their own production, then disassemble it, deliver it to the construction site and reassemble it. After this, you can proceed to finishing.

At the same time, the process itself is a bit like a construction set - all the parts are already perfectly sized and marked with numbers. So all that remains is to arrange them in accordance with the project.

The same scheme can be used to assemble a bathhouse from timber. Although, a bathhouse is not such a large-scale structure, so you can try to build it yourself. To make the work easier, you can use regular dried timber and nails instead of dowels to join the beams together.

For our country, wooden buildings are not at all uncommon, so the advantages that natural materials have are familiar to many. But nothing stands still, and now the technology of construction from timber has made some changes in installation, compared to a log house.

Below we will talk about the types of timber, how to assemble it, and also watch the video in this article that corresponds to our topic.

We are building a house

As you probably know, timber can be either smooth or profiled in its configuration, and the technology for assembling a house from profiled timber is somewhat different than that of smooth timber. Also, a milled profile can be either made of solid wood or glued, and although this does not affect the assembly process itself, the commissioning of the finished structure is very different in terms of timing.

Material selection

First of all, you need to decide on the material for building a house, and since we are talking about timber, then the appropriate requirements are imposed on it. Wood itself is a fairly rigid material and is not inferior in strength even to some metals; moreover, it is an excellent noise absorber, and therefore a sound insulator.
The negative qualities of wood include its flammability, instability to water and tendency to deformation in the form of shrinkage of the building during the first time after construction.

Coniferous wood is the most resistant to weather conditions, and this profile is also less susceptible to rotting compared to others. In addition, the technology for assembling walls from timber involves two types of materials - solid wood and glued profiles.
The first option, with natural humidity after the construction of the house, provides for its shrinkage within 10-12 months and only after that it can be finished and used, but the second option does not shrink, therefore, further operation can begin immediately after installation.
In addition, the technology for assembling a house from timber with your own hands depends on its profile. Thus, structures made of profiled timber are put together like a construction set, where all the tenons and grooves are provided and calculated for assembly, but for a smooth profile you need to arrange all the joints yourself, which, of course, takes much more time and requires a certain skill.

Loghouse assembly technique

First of all, the flashing is installed, but this needs to be done on roofing felt in order to create a cut-off waterproofing. However, there may not be a base as such if the house is mounted on a pile or columnar foundation - in such cases, the crown beam will be laid on a grillage. But we'll talk about it below.

During assembly, the technology of a log house may differ slightly, and you can see this in the drawn examples given above. For example, corner joints are often assembled “in an oblique paw” and tightened with a metal bracket, that is, it is simply driven into each joint from above.
A “frying pan” or, as it is also called, a “dovetail”, is cut under the partitions, but this is meant as an option, and not as a final and irrevocable assembly instruction.

Advice. Although it is believed that a gasket is not necessary on the frame crown, it is better to lay the groove with tow.
This will protect the connection from possible gaps due to chips.

Advice. You can skip some areas, since the compositions have no color.
To prevent this from happening, you can add a little stain to the solution, as can be seen in the photo above - this way you can clearly see the result of the coating.

After installing the flashing, the technology of wooden houses made of timber involves installing floor joists (in large rooms they should be doubled) and fixing them with wood grouse. The next step is to install the first crown.

The beams are fastened together with wooden dowels, about a meter apart, driving them into pre-made holes in the form of nails. A temporary floor should be laid over the joists to make it convenient to move around the construction site during further work.
Subsequent beams are mounted in the same way, that is, connecting to each other with dowels, joining at the corners “in an oblique paw”, and in the gaps (partitions) with a “frying pan” or “dovetail”.

It is possible that you will not be able to line the entire wall with crowns, and you will have to build up the profile, then the method of connecting to an end butt with a ridge is used. This joining ensures a reliable connection and, in fact, two crowns are enough on the wall - the top and bottom rows, and all other rows can be laid from a prefabricated profile.
For partitions, thinner timber is usually used, since it does not have a heat-insulating function.

Advice Solid wood beams are quite heavy and lifting the profiles to the top of the wall when it grows is quite difficult.
Therefore, you can make such a simple device in the form of a ramp from the same material - this will make your work much easier.
Each beam is dragged up, with ropes tied to it on both sides.

Roof

To arrange the roof, beams are first laid on the finished log house, and then a temporary flooring is made, exactly as it was done on the floor, so that it is safe to walk on it. This is practiced so that it is possible to assemble the rafter legs directly at the installation site, without lifting the finished structure from the ground to the roof.

It is best to assemble the rafters into a leg (at the top point) with bolts - the connection is reliable and easy to make, and for this use a beam of 150x50 mm or 200x50 mm. To temporarily fix the structure, you can use ordinary slats, 25 mm thick, simply nailing them stretched on both sides.
The technology of timber houses determines the pitch between the rafters depending on the height of the ridge - from 40 to 100 cm (a small pitch is necessary for arranging an attic).

The rafters cut from below are installed on the beam, nailed, and then tightened with a metal bracket. The entire structure needs to be checked with a level so that each leg stands strictly vertical, and then we screw on the ridge beam.
Also, to complete the frame at this stage, posts and struts are screwed or nailed.

The final touch to working with the frame will be its sheathing for roofing materials. For this, you can use both edged and unedged boards, 20 or 25 mm thick, but the thickness parameter must be kept to the same size.
Roofing material is laid under the roof (most often it is corrugated sheeting or metal tiles) and this is done simultaneously with the finishing coating - it’s more convenient.

Types of foundations for a wooden house

We promised to talk in general terms about the foundations that are used for the construction of wooden houses. Considering that the technology of timber walls allows the installation of lightweight structures, the foundation should not be powerful and therefore a screw foundation is often used for such purposes. Installation occurs quite quickly, without preliminary drilling of wells.

Also, piles can be wooden or bored, but the most durable foundation is a strip foundation. Large houses, possibly even several floors, are placed on such a foundation. In addition, with a strip foundation you can equip a basement or ground floor.

Wooden buildings for private residence are comfortable and environmentally friendly housing, which is preferred by more and more people who care about the quality of life. Wood is an affordable material that is easy and quick to work with. It will take no more than one month to assemble a house from profiled timber with your own hands.

Advantages of building from profiled timber

A profiled block is a log processed on a special woodworking machine on four sides with locking elements cut out. Profiled timber can be easily assembled into walls by driving the tenons into the grooves.

Wooden house construction from profiled material are:

light weight. Wooden cobblestone houses do not require the construction of a strong foundation, which reduces construction time and saves your budget. For buildings made of such material, a shallow strip, block or pile-screw foundation will be sufficient;
affordable price. Building from profiled timber is cheaper than building from brick. You will also save on interior and exterior decoration, insulation, and wall alignment;
special mechanical processing and drying in chambers makes the material durable. The block after profiling is less susceptible to cracking and deformation;
speed of construction. The geometric shape of each element makes it possible to assemble a log house in just two weeks;
environmental friendliness. Wooden houses inside have a favorable microclimate for the people living, which is created by natural ventilation;
high heat saving coefficient. Sealed ones retain heat well inside and do not allow cold air to penetrate;
attractive look. The tree is characterized by natural beauty. Wooden houses look stylish and solid.

Houses made of profiled timber experience the least shrinkage. Just one year is enough for the walls to assume a static position.

Construction of a house from profiled timber step by step

Independent construction from timber that has been profiled does not require the use of special equipment or professional teams. You can build a log house together. All measures should be carried out step by step in order to obtain comfortable, environmentally friendly, high-quality, inexpensive housing.

Design. This stage requires great attention. A sketch and plan of the future house is necessary to calculate the amount of materials, take into account the location of communications, take measurements, and scale it relative to the site plan. You can complete the document yourself, involve professionals from the SK Choice company, or plan construction using one of the ready-made projects that can be done.

A house design is required if you are going to build on the lands of populated areas. Construction must be coordinated with special services.

Preparing the site for construction. Cut down trees and bushes, uproot stumps, demolish buildings in the planned construction area. Mark out the upcoming construction using pegs and rope.

Construction of the foundation. Due to the small load that the foundation will bear, it is enough to build a shallow strip foundation under a house made of profiled timber, install concrete blocks or screw in steel screw piles. To strengthen the concrete pour, use reinforcement and a load of crushed stone, broken brick, or cobblestone. Before constructing a concrete foundation or burying blocks, excavation work must be carried out. When using steel screw supports, a grillage of larger cross-section timber or a metal structure is erected on their base.
Assembling the box. The first two crowns above the grillage or on the foundation surface are laid on a layer of waterproofing. The beams should be treated with special agents against wood rotting as a result of moisture. Subsequent crowns are completed, collecting each element into a castle. It is necessary to think through the corner connections in advance - “in the paw” or with an extension. Between each row, insulating material, for example, jute, is laid. This is a natural, durable fiber that prevents heat leakage, the penetration of cold air, and promotes a hermetically sealed fit between the crowns. The crowns are fastened together with dowels.
Cutting out window and door openings. Using a saw, in accordance with the approved project, cuts are made in the assembled box in places where entrances, passages, and windows are planned.
Installation of subfloor. During the construction of the box, depending on the design solution, subfloor logs are laid at the planned height into the cut holes in the profiled timber. It can be a block, a log or a thick board. A flooring is made on top of the joists.

Roof assembly. A rafter system is built on top of the assembled walls in the form of a durable wooden frame made of timber or thick boards. Logs are laid on the upper crown to construct the ceiling. A sheathing is installed on the rafters with a pitch of each element of at least 1 m. Waterproofing is laid on top of the structure and the roof is laid. Slate, metal tiles, flexible tiles, roofing felt, corrugated sheets, ondulin, metal sheets, etc. are used as roofing materials.
Shrinkage of the log house. The roof box assembled on the foundation must be left until next year. The structure must experience shrinkage as a result of natural soil movements and drying of the wood.
Installation of windows, stairs, doors. After the shrinkage period, the house assumes a static position. Installing entrance groups, frames, staircases and railings before the wood takes its final shape is fraught with deformation of the structure and costs for replacement or repair.
Connecting communications. After shrinking the box and installing all the necessary elements, water is supplied to the house, sewerage is installed, electrical wiring is laid, and, if necessary, a ventilation system is installed.
Interior and exterior finishing. A structure made of profiled timber requires minimal effort and spending on finishing activities. The walls do not need leveling or cladding from the outside. The box, as well as all wooden elements, should be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.