Wet snow sticks to branches, forming heavy caps that can break branches at their base. Clear snow from treetops as needed.
In March, rodents are especially active. Periodically trample the snow around tree trunks, lay out poisoned baits using empty containers (cans, boxes, containers).
Carefully inspect the tree trunks for damage from rodents (mice, hares, etc.). If there is damage, the wounds must be cleaned with a sharp garden knife, and then covered with garden paste or varnish.
To prevent bark burns in March, it is necessary to whiten the trunks and bases of skeletal branches (2.5 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). If this is difficult to do, wrap the tree trunks with paper or newspaper in 2 layers. The bandages can be removed after the snow melts and the soil thaws.
Your coniferous plants may suffer from sunburn. Install shading screens made of agrospan or other material, which can also be removed after the snow melts and the soil thaws.
As the snow cover melts, it is necessary to remove shelters from coniferous trees and replace them with shading structures to avoid damping off of the needles during prolonged thaws.
When thawing the shelter on roses and other shrubs, you need to install ventilation vents until the temperature reaches above zero.
When the average daily temperature is not lower than -5 degrees, you can begin pruning trees, but you must adhere to the following rule:
1) First, sanitary pruning is performed with cutting out broken and diseased branches;
2) Next, large skeletal and semi-skeletal branches thickening the crown are cut out “into a ring”, if necessary, as well as branches growing inside the crown;
3) Depending on the variety and age of the tree, the central conductor and the shoots competing with it, as well as some branches of the upper tier, are shortened.
The cuts should be smooth, the wounds should be covered with garden paste or pitch. Pruning must be completed before sap flow begins.
Snow melting ends and it is necessary to promptly remove excess melt water from trees and shrubs to avoid wetting the root system.
What to do after the snow melts before the leaves bloom
Continue airing roses in shelters in warm weather. If frosts below -7 degrees are expected, the roses are covered again. The cover of the roses is removed gradually, in several stages, leaving the shading made of spruce branches. Shading is completely removed in warm, cloudy weather, when the buds begin to grow.
It's time to clear the trunks and skeletal branches of trees from dead bark, while destroying pests hibernating under the bark. If there are frost cracks or other wounds, you need to clean them with a knife, treat them with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water), and then cover them with garden paste or varnish.
After the soil has thawed and dried, it is necessary to remove last year's leaves, plant debris, windbreaks and other garden debris.
When average daily temperatures are not lower than +5 degrees, preventive spraying of trees and shrubs with fungicides should be carried out: copper sulfate, HOM, oxy-HOM, Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak.
If there are conifers weakened after wintering on the site, it is advisable to treat them with EPINA solution, provided that the average daily temperatures are not lower than +10 +12 degrees.
When the above temperatures occur, when the threat of return frosts has disappeared and the buds have begun to grow, you can begin pruning the roses. To do this, you need to prepare a sharp pruning shears, a disinfectant solution in the form of a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or a 1% solution of copper sulfate for treating tools, garden paste or garden pitch for treating wounds.
General rules must be observed pruning rules:
- make only smooth cuts, otherwise, if the cut is crushed, the wood and bark dry out, turning into a source of infection;
- the cut should be oblique, no higher than 5 mm above the bud - so that no moisture gets on it;
- stems should be shortened to healthy tissue (the core should be white);
- you need to trim to the outer bud so that later the center of the bush is not shaded and the shoots do not intersect;
- all dead, diseased, weak and thin shoots are removed to the base (on a ring) and burned;
- if several stems grow from a bud, they are removed, leaving only one;
- the sections are treated with garden paste or garden pitch;
- after each pruning, preventive spraying should be carried out with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.
Grafted roses need to be checked to see if any wild growth has appeared. It is cut off at the base, and if necessary, the soil is dug up.
Formative Rose pruning can be short (strong), medium (moderate) and long (weak). With strong pruning, 1 - 2 buds are left, with medium - 4 - 6, with weak - 8 - 12 buds. With any type of pruning, the thickening shoots growing inside the bush are cut out first. Branches and shoots should not cross or interfere with each other. The general principle for choosing the type of pruning is as follows: vigorously growing shoots are pruned weakly, medium-sized shoots - moderately, weakly growing - strongly.
Weak Pruning is done for park and climbing roses, which bloom only on the upper and middle parts of last year's shoots. The old shoots of the rugosa rose are cut out, leaving 5 to 7 younger ones in the bush.
Average pruning is done in remontant, hybrid tea, and grandiflora roses, leaving 7 - 9 well-developed buds.
Strong Pruning is carried out on floribunda, miniature and polyanthus roses.
On new shoots of replacement, 3 to 5 well-developed buds are left, on branches of the first and second order - 1 to 2 buds. Old shoots (more than 3 years old) are cut out to the root collar, which contributes to the formation of new replacement shoots in the current year.
In addition, pruning of roses should be carried out in accordance with the varietal characteristics. You must clearly understand what you want to achieve by pruning this variety: exhibition quality flowers, abundant and early flowering, a certain bush shape, or extending the life of the plant. Remember: by cutting out old branches, you stimulate the appearance of new young shoots, which provide abundant flowering.
The soil warmed up and dried out. The time has come to apply fertilizing in the form of nitrogen or complex mineral fertilizers to the trunk circles of trees and shrubs, having previously carried out abundant watering. We add ammonium nitrate, Kemirau - universal, for roses - Toprose at the rate of no more than 20 - 30 g. per 1 sq. meter. After applying fertilizers, be sure to loosen the soil. It is also a good idea to add organic fertilizer (manure, compost), if this was not done in the fall. Attention: use only well-rotted manure.
After loosening and leveling the soil, it is necessary to mulch:
- for deciduous trees and shrubs, humus, compost, crushed bark or wood chips from deciduous trees in a layer of 4-7 cm.
- for conifers, humus, compost, high-moor peat or its mixture with humus, crushed bark or coniferous wood chips in a layer of 5 - 8 cm.
What to do after the leaves bloom
When pruning in early spring, you may miss many nuances: the condition of the plant cannot always be accurately diagnosed. After the leaves bloom, there is no longer any doubt. Now you can clean up everything that was left unfinished in early spring. At this time you should:
- remove remaining dead and diseased shoots;
- shorten shoots with signs of winter frostbite.
After pruning is completed, do not forget to treat the wounds with garden paste or varnish.
When the soil dries out, carry out timely periodic watering.
It is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of trees and shrubs:
- against pests - with insecticidal preparations of the pyrethroid class (Fastak, Confidor, Arrivo, etc.);
- against diseases - with systemic fungicides such as “Skor”, “Topaz”;
- for roses, “Rose Clear” can be used as a fungicide.
All treatments must be carried out in dry, windless weather, when precipitation is not expected. Otherwise, processing should be delayed.
It must be remembered that preventive treatments may be ineffective if there were problems with pests and diseases on your site last year and previously taken measures were insufficient. In this case, it is better to use the services of a specialist.
Grigory DROZDOV
Proper, constant care will make your garden beautiful, neat and healthy. During this time, the garden is prepared for the fruiting season, the crown is restored, fertilizers are applied, and the plants are protected from pests.
First work on the site
At the beginning of spring in the garden:
- carefully inspect the trees;
- free branches from loose snow;
- build supports for sagging branches;
- remove insulation from the bollards;
- identify cracks formed due to sudden temperature changes.
Pests quickly take root under the separated bark, fungal infections develop, and hollows form in frost holes. Wounds heal without delay.
After the snow melts, tidy up the garden:
- raking leaves;
- collect broken branches;
- The first weeds are pulled out.
Spring whitewashing of trees is carried out immediately. Timely completion of work will help avoid burns of the bark by the spring sun and protect against pests. The composition of the solution and its concentration must be determined by a specialist.
Shrub plantings are also put in order: mulch and last year’s leaves are removed. It is better to burn all leftovers, as larvae and harmful insects can overwinter in them.
Spraying trees and shrubs
Treatment helps destroy overwintered pests, fruit rot, and prevents the development of diseases. In the spring, trees and berry fields are treated three times with special preparations.
The first spraying is done before the buds swell, as soon as the threat of night frosts has passed. The next irrigation is carried out before flowering, the last one a week after it.
Only an agronomist can choose the right chemicals and prepare combined formulations. depends on the height of the tree and the density of the crown.
| № | Tree/shrub height | Unit change | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Up to 1 m | PC. | from 100 rub. |
| 2 | 1-2 m | PC. | from 200 rub. |
| 3 | 2-3 m | PC. | from 300 rub. |
| 4 | 3-4 m | PC. | from 400 rub. |
| 5 | 5-7 m | PC. | from 1,000 rub. |
| 6 | Above 7 m | PC. | from 2,000 rub. |
| 7 | Lawn | weaving | from 500 rub. |
Spring garden feeding
The application of mineral fertilizers in the spring is necessary to replenish nutrients in the soil, growth and fruiting of trees.
In flat areas, fertilizing with mineral compounds is carried out before the snow melts. Along with melt water, beneficial additives will be absorbed into the soil. Gardens growing on slopes are fertilized after the snow melts.
It is important to choose the right dosage of fertilizers: excess or lack of nutrients has a negative impact on the development and fruiting of trees and bushes. The amount of fertilizer is calculated by the agronomist depending on the age of the fruit tree, the condition of the trunk and bark.
In the spring, fruit trees and berry crops are carefully watered twice. The first watering is carried out before the buds swell, the second - three weeks after flowering.
The soil in the tree trunks is regularly loosened, mulched, and weeds are removed. performed by our specialists. The cost of services does not include the cost of materials (geotextiles, mulch).
Removing unnecessary growth
Fruit trees and shrubs often scatter shoots that reduce the attractiveness of the garden, slow down the growth and development of garden plantings, and disrupt the harmony of landscape design. In the process of updating the garden, it becomes necessary to remove mature trees.
Our specialists carry out all work carefully and safely. The cost of work depends on the type and size of tree-like plants.
Notes:
1) The cost of removal depends on the size of the plant being removed. Removal of plant residues is paid separately.
2) When removing plant turf (lawn), transportation over a distance of more than 50 m is paid additionally.
Comprehensive garden care
Our company will take on the responsibility of preparing your garden for the new season. We have sufficient experience, the necessary tools, and the desire to provide assistance to gardeners.
You can entrust the care of your garden to professionals. Call!
The volume and quality of next year’s harvest directly depends on the correctness and timeliness of the work carried out in the fall to care for fruit trees. Measures to protect them from pests, diseases, fertilization, digging and moistening the soil in the garden, and extremely important pruning work must be done on time - this will make it easier for the trees to enter winter and help them survive it without loss.
The importance of autumn care
Measures carried out in the correct order for the autumn care of fruit trees after the end of the harvest help to increase their winter hardiness, that is, the ability not to suffer from any weather disasters - severe frosts, sudden thaws, and most importantly - the alternation of both.
Strengthen the immunity of plants, reduce the volume of branches, protect against pests and diseases, and add nutrients in the fall so that trees and shrubs, waking up in the spring, can immediately use them - all this work needs to be done in a fairly short time.
Skipping any of the stages risks not just catching up in the spring, but a lack of harvest or even the death of the entire plant.
Autumn garden plan
Proper care of an orchard in autumn begins in September and should end approximately half a month before the arrival of frost. In order to complete all the work on time, it is convenient to care for the trees in the fall according to a plan adjusted according to the weather forecast in a particular area. The main stages of activity are as follows:
- remove the hunting belts, clean them and destroy pests, remove carrion from the ground;
- approximately in the second month of autumn, as cold and rainy weather approaches, young seedlings are planted;
- fruit-bearing trees are pruned - if the harvest has already been harvested, the sap flow is slow and the plants are preparing to go to sleep;
- whiten the trunks and bases of large branches;
- trunks and branches are treated to remove insects that have taken refuge in them for the winter, fungal diseases and rot are prevented;
- collect and burn leaves and trimmed branches;
- they dig up the soil near the berry patches and in the tree trunks, add fertilizer in the form of fertilizers;
- if necessary, trees are insulated and protected from small and large rodents (especially for young seedlings).
Sanitary pruning
The main way to regulate the yield of fruit trees is by pruning them. It heals the plant, prevents it from going wild, directs the growth of branches in the right direction and helps to form a bountiful harvest. The main burden of pruning fruit trees falls on gardeners in the spring, when the frosts have already ended, but the growing season has not yet begun. In the fall, sanitary pruning is carried out: after a careful inspection, broken and dried branches are removed - these are especially popular with harmful insects. They also cut out shoots that greatly interfere with others, that are weak and that cross.
They destroy tops - fattening ones, with large leaves and weak buds. They usually grow from dormant buds on skeletal old branches. The fruits on the tops do not set, and they take away the strength from the tree, at the same time thickening the crown. The provoking factor for the appearance of a large number of tops is overfeeding the tree with nitrogen and too much watering.
Having gotten rid of excess, unproductive load, the plant directs more energy to preparing for the winter cold.
Preventive treatment for diseases
Autumn care includes spraying the trunk and branches with medicinal substances. In particular, treatment with copper preparations, solutions of iron sulfate and Bordeaux mixture, as well as modern fungicides - Kuproxat, Horus, Topsin - makes it possible to preventively protect fruit trees from coccomycosis and other types of spotting.
Treatment with Impact, Strobi, and Skor helps suppress possible foci of scab and rot. Since any wounds, hollows and cracks on the bark of plants are open gates for infection, they must be treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate and covered with cement.
In addition, many insects lay larvae in the bark of fruit trees in the fall. This is how the offspring of the codling moth, the ringed silkworm, hope to survive the winter. Dry leaves, as if glued to the branches by a thin web, are a refuge for lacewing and hawthorn caterpillars. These are just a few of the extensive list of orchard pests. To protect plantings from them, after removing carrion, fallen leaves and debris, iron brushes are used to clean the trunks and, as far as possible, branches from dead bark. Then all trees are treated with one of the well-proven insecticides - a three or five percent urea solution, Fury, Agravertini, Bulldoc (they are especially effective against aphids, silkworms, leaf rollers and lungworts).
Whitewashing trunks
This is an important factor in caring for fruit trees in the fall. Lime treatment of the bark serves as protection for plants from:
- winter temperature changes, when during the day the bark heats up in the sun, and at night it is affected by severe frosts,
- spring burns, when the foliage is not yet covered;
- harmful insects that lay their larvae for the winter;
- a number of fungal diseases.
The whitewash solution should be quite thick and saturated. They cover the trunk and, if possible, the bases of skeletal branches.
Options for its composition:
- for home preparation, 2 kg of lime is combined with 400 g of copper sulfate. They dissolve water in a bucket and put a kilogram of clay and cow dung there. For viscosity, some gardeners add paste to this mixture, but it cannot be used for young seedlings - the sticky mixture will prevent the delicate bark from breathing;
- for young trees, lime in this cocktail is replaced with chalk;
- purchased mixtures are divided into simple ones - made of clay and lime, which are quickly washed off by precipitation, and special paints that last a long time on the trunks and contain special antiseptics against diseases.
Autumn feeding
It is very important to carry out this procedure correctly. Autumn fertilization is considered more significant than spring and summer: the frost resistance of trees, especially those planted recently, is enhanced, their immunity and fruiting power are strengthened.
Root feeding is added when digging up the soil around the tree trunks. Humus and mineral fertilizers are added:
- humus By spring it will rot, and when it wakes up, the plant will receive the nitrogen supplement it needs. For trees less than 8 years old, 30 kg of substance is enough, for adults - about 50 kg;
- phosphorus- sparingly soluble in water, inactive substance. Spreading superphosphate over the soil surface is useless for plants. It is best to apply it into the holes around the trunk along the projection of the crown to a depth of about 30 cm. A handful of fertilizer is placed in each hole, water is added and buried;
- potassium sulfate- the best potassium fertilizer, since it does not contain chlorine harmful to plantings. The addition rate is 5-10 g per square meter.
Humus 
It is preferable to simultaneously incorporate potassium and phosphorus compounds - this way their assimilation is more efficient. The best option for caring for trees in the fall is to purchase complex fertilizers and strictly follow the instructions for use for different fruit crops.
Plants are not fertilized with nitrogen, since this element promotes sap flow, which harms the winter hardiness of trees.
Features of caring for fruit tree seedlings in autumn
After planting, young trees must be tied to a stake and the soil mulched. Digging of tree trunk circles is carried out carefully, to a depth of no more than 15 cm, so as not to damage the root system.
The tender bark of young plantations is especially vulnerable in winter, attractive to hares and mice. Caring for tree seedlings involves mandatory protection. To do this, many gardeners tie the stems with spruce branches with the needles down. If this is not possible, the best option is a purchased fine mesh. They wrap the trunks with it, simultaneously deepening it into the soil. Another unexpected material is disused synthetic tights and stockings.
In addition, to combat mice, you need to clear the garden of fallen leaves and branches in the fall after pruning.
In the fall, there is a lot of work to prepare the garden for winter, but this way it will survive the frosty period without loss and accumulate strength for active flowering and abundant fruiting.
In summer, plants actively grow leaves, shoots and ovaries. Caring for trees and shrubs in summer is much easier than in other seasons. We planted everything that needed to be planted in the spring, and now, for the most part, we relax and enjoy the view. Well, if necessary, we trim, water and protect from pests.
A haircut
In order for ornamental trees and shrubs to always have a beautiful appearance, they need to be trimmed and pruned regularly throughout the growing season.
If necessary, we carry out formative pruning of coniferous plants and sanitary pruning of trees.
We trim to increase the density of the branches and maintain the correct shape.
Trimming beautifully flowering shrubs should be done immediately after flowering so that they have time to grow new greenery. As they fade, we prune mock orange, lilac, barberry, ornamental currants and other shrubs.
A feature of pruning in August is the removal of vertical shoots of trees growing in the upper part of the crown. With this technique we regulate their growth. We also cut out diseased and withered branches. During this period, they are easiest to detect among healthy people.
Watering and fertilizing
Timely watering is a very important aspect in garden care. How much water is needed to water each tree or shrub depends on the specific species and its size, as well as the composition of the soil.
How often you will need to water depends on the intensity and amount of summer precipitation. It is best to water rarely, but abundantly, so that the moisture reaches the depth at which the active roots are located.
Do not forget that young trees need more frequent watering (about 4-5 times per season).
Water only in the morning or evening. When watering during the day, there is a high risk of burns.
After watering or rain, loosen the soil to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.
During the hottest period of summer (July-August), the most intense evaporation of moisture occurs from the surface of the soil and leaves of plants. To retain moisture in the soil, we mulch the tree trunks and a small area around the bushes.
At very high temperatures and during drought, it is useful to sprinkle (irrigate) shrubs and tree crowns. This will increase the air humidity around them and at the same time wash away dust from the leaves. We sprinkle only after sunset.
As for fertilizing, starting from the second half of July, nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied. Otherwise, the new shoots that appear will not have time to ripen, and the plants will not be ready for winter hibernation.
Pests and weeds
Trees and shrubs can be attacked by all kinds of insect pests in the summer. Some insects harm plants during their activities, while others are carriers of various infections. Therefore, preventive spraying should be aimed both against pests and diseases and infections.
To do this, we use chemicals (fungicides, insecticides) or folk remedies. Here is one popular recipe for spraying: mix 50 g of soda ash (linen) and 40 g of laundry soap, dilute this mixture in 10 liters of water and spray every 8-10 days.
Weeds are another disaster for green spaces; they are also pests of a kind. On tree trunks, especially young trees, weeds should be destroyed, because they create a favorable environment for the development of diseases, and in addition, attract harmful insects.
Herbicides can be used to kill weeds, but it is better to destroy them by loosening the soil and collecting them by hand. Mulching around the tree trunks can help prevent weeds from appearing.
Reproduction and grafting
During the summer months, plants can be propagated and grafted. For vegetative propagation of trees and shrubs in the summer, layering, cuttings, and dividing the bush are used. This is done to replace diseased, weakened, physiologically old plants and to preserve rare specimens.
Grafting of ornamental trees and shrubs is carried out to create weeping forms or to improve the species composition of plants. As a rule, grafting with green cuttings or budding is used.
Take good care of your trees and shrubs. It is only at first glance that it seems that they need less attention than decorative flowers, for example, or a lawn. However, they also need your love and care.
Caring for plant root systems. Plant roots are the main working organ of the underground part, which absorbs elements of soil nutrition.
In accordance with the growth and development of tree organs at different times of the growing season, it is recommended to take measures to care for root systems. During the spring and spring-summer periods of maximum root growth, plants should be provided with soil nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) and water. This contributes to the intensity of shoot growth, growth and formation of leaf surface, abundant flowering and fruit formation, i.e. strengthening of all physiological processes and biochemical transformations. In the autumn, as well as at the end of summer, during the activation of root growth, providing plants with phosphorus, potassium and water increases the stability of the plant organism in the winter and largely determines the nature of the growing season for the next year.
Providing plants with missing nutrients occurs through the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. On sandy soils, the rate of application of mineral fertilizers is increased by 10-15%.
Norms and timing of fertilizer application when caring for trees and shrubs.
- - Deciduous trees nitrogen - 30 g, phosphorus - 60 g, potassium - 10 g, per 30-50 l. water.
- - Coniferous trees nitrogen - 12.5 g, phosphorus - 50 g, potassium - 10 g per 30-50 l. water.
- - Shrubs nitrogen - 5- 7 g, phosphorus - 5-7 g, potassium 6-8 g per 10-15 l. water.
First feeding: from mid-May to mid-June;
Second feeding: from late August to mid-October.
Fertilizing with dry fertilizers is carried out after rain or watering, scattering fertilizers around the plant, making sure to step back 0.3 m from the root collar; In adult plants, fertilizer sowing should be carried out no more than 0.5 m from the trunk. After applying fertilizers, it is necessary to water the plants abundantly.
Liquid fertilizing is carried out locally in wells with a depth of 20-25, as well as with a special machine for fertilizing trees “Krona - 130” at the rate of 50-70 l/m2 for trees and 10-15 l/m2 for shrubs.
When caring for beautiful flowering shrubs, liquid fertilizing is carried out twice during the growing season:
the first time - when the leaves are forming,
the second - during the budding period of flowers; The application rate is 5-7 g/m2 each time.
Phosphorus fertilizers are applied once during two growing seasons. Potassium fertilizers are applied annually.
Currently, the use of slow-acting mineral fertilizers is promising, for example, the complex long-acting polymer fertilizer SPU - light gray granules containing 26% total nitrogen, 10% water-soluble nitrogen, 20% digestible phosphorus at a humidity of 10-12%. SPU is applied in the spring at the rate of 200 g/m2 for trees over 20 years old, 150 g/m2 for young trees and 80-100 g/m2 for shrubs, with the obligatory addition of the recommended dose of potassium fertilizers in the fall.
Organic fertilizers - humus, compost from fallen leaves, peat, rotted manure, bird droppings, organomineral granular fertilizers.
Organic fertilizers are distributed evenly over the tree trunk area, slightly retreating from the root collar of the plant. After the fertilizer is distributed, they are “sealed” i.e. dig up the surface of the fertilizer distribution area.
The greatest effect is achieved with the combined application of organic and mineral fertilizers. In this case, their doses should be reduced by half. When applying organic fertilizers in liquid form, solutions are first prepared. Cow manure and slurry must be diluted in a ratio of 1:5, bird droppings 1:15, the application rate for plants is 20-25 l/m2 of tree trunk area and 15-20 l/m2 for shrubs.
Currently, composts obtained from waste treatment plants, as well as thermally dried sewage sludge, are used.
Organic fertilizers are applied to trees and shrubs once every 3-4 years.
In addition to applying fertilizers, watering, mulching, and loosening of tree trunk areas are systematically carried out. These care measures are used in the first years after planting as plants adapt to new habitat conditions.
Caring for the aboveground part of the plant.
Trunk care: Consists of measures to care for tree trunks, trimming branches and shoots of plants in order to form the crown and improve its health.
- - All cuts to the bark and wood of the trunk must be smoothed with a sharp garden knife so that the surface of the wound is smooth, without burrs and bark; A layer of oil paint on drying oil should be applied to this surface, or even better, smeared with garden pitch.
- - To prevent sunburn of the bark, a plant with delicate bark can be painted with a mixture of soil and slaked lime. The bark damaged by burns is cut off with a sharp knife, and the surface of the wound is painted over with oil paint.
- - As a result of frost damage and mechanical damage, hollows appear on the trunk (they must be prevented before they appear). To fill hollows, the following are used: bitumen with sawdust, gravel-cement, sand-bitumen mixture with the addition of sawdust, and hot asphalt mixture. These mixtures are hard fillers that can easily fall out when the tree is rocked. Therefore, a special filling mixture BRI has been developed, which is characterized by high biostability and anti-corrosion properties. The operation of filling the hollow with this mixture is performed using a trowel.
Tree pruning. Tree pruning is one of the main activities for caring for the above-ground parts of plants. Pruning has various purposes: removing dry and damaged branches, shoots, overgrowth, crown aeration, its rejuvenation, giving it the required size and shape.
The following types of pruning are distinguished:
molding,
sanitary,
rejuvenating.
Form trimming. This type of pruning is used for the purpose of preserving the crown of plants or giving it the appropriate shape.
At a young age, light pruning is carried out - pinching, by one, two, less often three buds, no more than 20-30% of the annual growth; each time it is necessary to leave shoots 5-10 cm long between the old and new cuts.
In middle age, shoots are shortened to 50% of the length of the annual growth. In fast-growing species (ash maple, various types of poplar), severe pruning is done - up to 60-70% of the annual growth of shoots.
Formative pruning is carried out annually for fast-growing species, and once every two years for slow-growing species. When forming artificial tree crowns, heavy pruning is performed, which turns into shearing.
Sanitary pruning is intended to increase the light and air permeability of the crowns, remove diseased, drying out and broken branches, shoots and fatty shoots, branches growing inside the crowns, extending from the trunk at an acute angle and growing vertically upward.
Sanitary pruning is carried out throughout the growing season, removing branches at their very base; shoots are removed above the bud, carefully protecting it.
Large branches and shoots must be sawed off in several steps. The first cut is made at some distance from the trunk and a depth of several centimeters. The second one is placed 2-5 cm above the first. The remaining stump is cut out flush with the trunk. The cut site is thoroughly cleaned and coated with oil paint on natural drying oil or garden putty (varnish), and dormant buds at the base of the shoots are removed. It is necessary to cut out the shoots from the root collar and fatty shoots as early as possible, including the mother bark, in order to remove dormant buds at the base of the shoot.
Rejuvenating pruning: This type of pruning is intended to maintain the vital activity of old weakened trees that lose their decorative qualities, and their foliage becomes smaller and paler. Shoots and branches of plants are cut to the area where young shoots appear at 13-12 lengths. One or two second-order branches are left on the pruned branch. Individual branches are removed entirely. Rejuvenating pruning is carried out gradually, over two to three years, starting from the top and large skeletal branches. Pruning is carried out at the beginning of the growing season.
Shrub trimming.
When caring for shrubs, three types of pruning are used: molding, sanitary and rejuvenating.
Shaping pruning - giving the bush the desired shape, limiting excessive growth, regulating the intensity of flowering and fruiting, preventing the exposure of branches and increasing branching, eliminating thickening, as well as prevention and protection from pests and diseases.
The formation of bushes or hedges begins in the first year of planting. The annual growth is trimmed, leaving part of the lower buds. When pruning, you need to know the time of formation and blooming of flower buds and their location on the shoot:
- - With wintering flower buds (quince, weigela, spirea, mock orange and others). Flower buds are located on the sides of the shoots. Pruning of these species is carried out in the summer, after flowering, in order of thinning, aging skeletal branches are cut out separately, excessively long shoots of the current year are shortened, giving the bush the necessary shape.
- - With non-wintering or summer buds (barberry, snowberry and others). Peduncles are formed on buds, the differentiation and deployment of which occurs on the annual shoot of the current period. They form lateral peduncles in the axils of the leaves of the mother shoot. Plants are also pruned during the dormant period (late autumn or early spring). Part of last year's shoots is shortened, while several lateral buds are retained at their base. To thin out low-growing shrubs, individual weak branches are planted “on the stump”.
- - With wintering and non-wintering buds (privet, serviceberry, pyracantha, currant and others). Peduncles are cut off from the lateral and apical generative buds of last year's shoot and the lateral ones from the current growth. Pruning is carried out after flowering, carrying out thinning, cutting out old shoots of formation, weakened and drying branches. The pruning should be light. Shrubs valued for their beautiful fruits are pruned in autumn or spring.
Hedges at a young age are pruned 2-3 times per season; at the onset of full decorative effect in fast-growing shrubs 4-6 times, in slow-growing shrubs up to 3 times per season. The first pruning is carried out in March-April, before the buds open, followed by the loss of clarity of the transverse profile of the hedge.
Sanitary pruning: aimed at removing diseased, drying branches. It is carried out annually throughout the growing season.
Anti-aging pruning: prevents shrubs from aging and ensures a young, healthy appearance of the bushes for a long time. First of all, aging, drying branches are removed. Shrubs that do not form suckers and shoots need to be planted on a “stump.” Grafted plants are pruned at a height of 10-15 cm. from the grafting site at the same height from the root collar.
In all cases, it is necessary to ensure that the bush does not form strong growth; In the first growing season, it is advisable to thin out the shoots, leaving 3-5-7 shoots for further development.
Annual shoots are shortened to a bud without leaving stumps; the cut should be oblique, pruning is done at the level of the middle of a well-developed healthy bud on the opposite side and ends directly above the tip of the bud. Semi-skeletal, two- to three-year-old branches are removed to the nearest branch or place of possible emergence of new shoots. The surface of the cuts is cleaned and coated with garden varnish or oil paint.
Sprinkling of plant crowns: necessary in order to refresh the crown and leaf surface of plants, clean it of dust and various particles of liquid and solid fractions, especially industrial emissions. Plants are sprayed with a special solution OP-10. Detergent preparations are used in the following concentrations: 0.1-0.2% solution - in the first half of summer; 0.2-0.3% solution - in the second half of summer.
Sprinkling is carried out using fine-droplet spraying until the leaves and needles are completely wetted early in the morning before 8 o'clock or in the evening after 7-8 o'clock. Processing frequency:
- 1-2 times hardwood,
- 2-3 times for coniferous species during the growing season.
Foliar feeding of plants: i.e. spraying plant leaves with a solution of micro- and macroelements. Foliar treatments are carried out in the morning or evening in calm weather; frequency of application 1-2 times during the growing season. The consumption of the nutrient solution depends on the height of the plant: for trees
up to 5 meters - 5 liters,
up to 10 meters - 10 liters,
up to 20 meters - 18 liters,
more than 20 meters - 30 liters;
for bushes up to 2 meters - 3 liters.
In places where plants are dusty and contaminated, before foliar feeding, the plants are cleaned of dust and contamination with detergent solutions. Caring for the aboveground part of shrubs also includes pruning trees and shrubs, which will be discussed further in more detail.