Laying parquet on a rough wooden floor. How to lay a parquet board on a wooden floor with your own hands, installation methods How to lay a parquet board on a wooden floor

Among the modern coatings that are designed for the floor, the parquet board occupies a high place. When ennobling with such a finishing material, the room takes on a beautiful appearance, and this indicates the good taste of the owner. Previously, parquet was an expensive material and its installation also required experience and skills. But, with the development of new technologies, all processes have become easier. At the moment, you can do this work yourself. It is enough to be able to use the tool and study the installation instructions well.

The most important factor in this process is the choice of high-quality coating - wood. It is better not to chase cheap material, but to opt for a well and properly dried coating with good geometry. Another important factor is the quality of the adhesive composition. It would be good to give preference to an already proven option so as not to spoil the final result.

Preparing for installation

In order to properly prepare the surface for assembling the laminate, it is important to decide what type of base will be chosen. The installation technology is the same in all cases, only the base can differ significantly.

If the coating is laid on concrete slabs, then it is necessary to level it with a concrete or cement-sand screed.

It is not recommended to mount the laminate on a fresh screed, it is necessary to withstand at least a month, and it is best to wait for the surface to dry completely. The degree of drying can be checked. To do this, cut off a large square from the laminate and secure it tightly to the plane with adhesive tape. You can also take a regular jar and put it upside down on the floor. After at least 40 hours, the square must be disconnected and checked for condensation. If not, then you can start assembling the parquet board, and if there is, then you should still give time to dry. You can try some method to reduce the humidity in the room. Requirements that are put forward to the screed:

• It is better if the residual humidity reaches no more than 5%;
• Differences on the surface should not exceed 2 mm;
• With high humidity, wait until there is a norm;

At this stage, it is necessary to have a laser level and a moisture meter in order to determine the residual moisture or use the above advice.

When preparing the base for the laminate, no matter what material will be used, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer.

To do this, you need roofing material, ordinary, but dense polyethylene or a waterproofing film specially made for this. The prepared strips of this material should be laid on a concrete base with an overlap of 15 or 20 centimeters. The joints can be joined together with mastic or adhesive tape. If the room is located in such a way that the humidity level is often increased, experts advise making two layers of insulation: a waterproofing layer, as well as bituminous mastic. Some cases also involve the installation of a layer of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If plywood will be used for covering, the insulation should be made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene. If logs are used between them, it is necessary to use a special insulation made of mineral wool.

Plywood is laid to concrete with screws, as well as dowels. But, before that, you must first drill holes for them of the appropriate size. It is necessary to attach plywood from the middle of the sheet.

Before laying the laminate, it is necessary to fix the plywood sheet in approximately 32 places. Its thickness must be at least 2 centimeters. During fixation, it is important to ensure that the seams are not splayed.

If there are beams on the surface, before laying the parquet board, a subfloor should be made. If the beams are far apart, it is necessary to equip the logs. The distance between the lags should be approximately 50-60 centimeters.

The beam, which will be used for logs, must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. But, if they are made of larch bars, this process can be abandoned. This material is very high quality and does not rot. You need to put it on a special cork gasket to provide sound insulation and roofing material to perform waterproofing. It is necessary to lay out this material around the entire perimeter, without gaps.

To lay high-quality parquet, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If you look from the bottom up, you can see such a "parquet cake" consisting of layers:

• Ceiling made of concrete mix;
• waterproofing layer;
• Self leveling agent;
• Primer;
• adhesive;
• Plywood is moisture resistant;
• Parquet glue;
• Parquet board.

As a waterproofing, you can use not only a polyethylene film, but also a foil-wrapped polypropylene armored film.

Purchased goods in packages should be opened in advance so that the material can adapt to room temperature. This process is best done a few weeks before the start of installation, but, in extreme cases, 48 ​​hours before. The installation of the board is not permissible if the concrete screed has a difference of more than 2 cm, but suddenly this situation was found to be corrected by using a self-leveling mixture.

Installation of parquet on a wooden floor

Savings must always be justified. It is important to check before assembling the laminate whether the existing wood flooring is suitable to be the basis for the subsequent material. It must be durable and withstand certain loads. But how to find out? What are the conditions for a rough wood flooring?

• Check that the slope of wooden floorboards, and two linear meters, it should be no more than 2 mm.
• When walking, the boards should not creak;
• There are no significant differences;
• When moving, the boards do not move and are well fixed;
• Make sure that all boards of the old coating are tongue-and-groove.

If there is even the slightest doubt, you can ask a professional for advice, and also not take risks, but dismantle the old wooden floor yourself. But, if everything is good and the coating is suitable, then you can begin to prepare the base for the installation of parquet.

Preliminary work with the base

All boards that move slightly must be firmly fixed. Then clean from dust and dirt, as well as polishing. After the wooden floor is prepared, it should be treated with an antiseptic. Wooden old boards must be covered with glue and moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is 12 mm, is laid out on top. It is also important to leave expansion joints of about 2 mm between the sheets. Then fix the sheets with screws with a distance between them of 20-25 centimeters. Fixing should be carried out so that the head of the self-tapping screw goes into the sheet by about 3 millimeters. To remove defects and irregularities on plywood, it is necessary to grind the surface with a special machine.

There are some rules that must be observed when installing laminate on a wooden surface.

• All rough work in the room must be completed;
• During installation, it is important to observe the established temperature regime, as well as the percentage of humidity;
• The temperature in the room should not be more than 24 degrees;
• Humidity in the room is not more than 60%.
• Humidity of the base on which the parquet will be mounted is not more than 6%.

Laying process

Masters give advice on laying laminate flooring: the boards must be assembled in a different direction than the wooden floor, it should be laid transversely or diagonally. The parquet is fixed with an adhesive. It must be applied to the base and attach the board so that the maximum contact of the segments is obtained. Boards can also be pulled together, if necessary, with wooden wedges. Leave a compensatory gap between the walls and the parquet.

The boards that are located in the first row should be oriented towards the wall with a groove. Self-tapping screws should be placed so that after installation they can be hidden with a plinth floor. A parquet board with a width of more than 15 centimeters must be additionally fixed on the front side. This step can be performed as an element of decor and drive a self-tapping screw 1 cm deep and cover the hole with a wooden colored cork.

How to properly lay the parquet board on the logs?

This process does not contain wet and dirty steps, no need to carry out cement mortars. This method is practical, since it is possible to lay various wiring, cables or pipes between the lags, and you can also lay an insulating layer.

It is not necessary to allocate time for drying the screed, which significantly reduces the installation time of the floor covering by less than a month.

Leagues are pieces of dry timber, which is pre-coated with an antiseptic. It will perfectly serve as protection against harmful influences and the occurrence of fungus and mold, which can reduce the life of the surface.

Lags must be laid so that they are perpendicular to the parquet board and fasten them together. It is important to level them up. If there are some irregularities, they can be corrected by tapping. And then attach special wedges to them.

Instead of regular lags, you can use adjustable ones. They are the same as wooden bars, only they have through threaded holes into which plastic stand bolts should be screwed, which are firmly fastened to the ceiling. The height of these racks is regulated by a special key. At this moment, the logs can rise or fall, exposing the surface to the level.

Layers of plywood must be laid on top of the lags. First, the first, which is fastened with self-tapping screws, and then the second - on glue, and then also on self-tapping screws, the caps of which should not be deepened by more than 4 mm. Plywood with a total thickness of at least 20 millimeters. Large sheets can be sawn into even pieces to relieve internal stress. The uppermost layer must be sanded and only then a parquet board should be laid on it.

It is possible to mount the parquet board on the old parquet flooring. This process should be performed only if it is still strong enough, does not creak. In this case, careful sanding must be carried out in order to achieve a perfectly even surface of the parquet. It should be driven with a drum grinder to remove defects and irregularities. Then the surface must be puttied. For this, you can use fine parquet dust, which was obtained in the process of grinding and a special liquid.

After the sanding process, the parquet must be varnished three to seven times using a roller.

The first layer is a primer, which impregnates the pores of the board. Before applying the last coat, the previously applied varnish must be sanded to remove wood fluff. It rises from the impact on the wood of previous layers of varnish.

The very last step in this process is the installation of a parquet plinth, which can perfectly mask all the irregularities of the wall, as well as veil wires or cables.

To learn how to lay a parquet board with high quality, it is recommended to watch this video:

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its service life. At the same time, without exception, manufacturers indicate that the finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying parquet boards are followed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the installation system. To significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new lock kits are being developed. Today we can distinguish the following types:

1. Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock.
2. Click hitch - connection of planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the lamellas together.
3. 5G system – volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the bars, and increases the service life of the coating.

The type of locking system depends on how to properly lay the parquet board. Each package of high-quality flooring material always contains detailed installation instructions that answer all the questions of a novice or experienced craftsman.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wooden coating. Includes:

1. "Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively on its own locks, without bonding to the base. This is the best option if you plan to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
2. Glue. One-component elastic polymer-based compounds (polyurethane, MS and others) are used. The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
3. On fastener. It is used for rigid fixation of each plank to the base. In this case, special “parquet” (finishing) hardware, air studs (complete with an air gun) or classic dowel-nails are needed.

The scheme of laying the parquet board is standard - with an offset of 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the length of the bar. This will allow you to form a strong, reliable and durable circular “strapping” of all lamellas.

How to lay a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

• Floors formed on the ground;
• Logs, if under the base there are too damp or warm rooms (boiler room, boiler room, laundry room, basement, etc.);
• Systems of water, soft electric or infrared heating;
• Aerated concrete beams.

Features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is necessary to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they should not be placed on the "warm floor" system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying parquet boards:

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: step by step instructions

We describe the installation process in stages.

Foundation preparation

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, floor leveling is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

• Self-levelling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum basis;
• Dry prefabricated screed from sheet materials (plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rail more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

• Adhesive compounds, if gluing a parquet board is supposed;
• Strengthening compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For a wooden base, the scheme of work is somewhat different. Irregularities (differences, "humps") should be cut off or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic putties, and if there are squeaks, “pull” the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. In case of multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16 mm or more. Top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work on the prepared surface under the parquet board, a waterproofing and substrate material is laid. That is, neatly, without creases, a film is spread on the floor with an overlap of 15-25 cm, fixed with adhesive tape. Then the sheet or roll substrate is already laid end-to-end. With adhesive mounting, this step is skipped.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packaged material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend warming up the floor heating system for 2 weeks before starting installation work, then turn it off 3-4 hours before laying. This will allow you to create the right climate in the premises, to avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. This should not be frightened, it is better to turn it to your advantage - open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a pattern that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to carefully measure the floor and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a laying diagram to scale on a sheet of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, a proportional displacement of the first one is necessary.

Floor covering installation

Laying in a "floating" way starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating is shifted with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the fact that the protruding part of the lock is cut off from the planks of the first row, then the first one is installed in the corner and the installation begins along the end edge. The end plate can be trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the rest of the lamella of the previous one. For the parquet board of the classic Click-lock, first the end couplers are connected, then the joining is done along the length with the obligatory knocking out with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be joined as needed both longitudinally and across, which is shown in the video below.

For some types of three-dimensional lock, it is not necessary to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to click the plates correctly.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled by end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outer row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a wringer.

If the edge of the bar rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then the cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive composition is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually raising the temperature, the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors must be mounted. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing a parquet board with an adhesive method, the procedure will be slightly different:

1. Apply the adhesive to the prepared substrate and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
2. At the boards of the first row, cut the edge.
3. Assemble the coating in the standard manner, knocking it down with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion or fixing it with hardware that is “driven” into the lock groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or air gun studs without an adhesive compound.

After completing all the work, many manufacturers recommend washing the floor with special products for parquet and parquet boards so that the wax contained in them securely seals all joints.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

There is a huge selection of floor coverings. The parquet board has an attractive appearance and durability, which has led to the popularity of this material.

The parquet board requires a perfectly even and very dry base. But wood floors, especially old ones, rarely meet these criteria. What to do? Read our article.

The parquet board is a ready-to-use multi-layer coating consisting of:

1. Top wear-resistant protective layer: polyurethane, urethane-alkyd varnish, oil, oil-wax or wax treatment.
2. An array of valuable wood with a layer of up to 6 mm: beech, oak, maple and many others. The collections of well-known manufacturers include more than 50 designs, including bleached or tinted wood, brushed or artificially aged (rustic).
3. Base plate up to 9 mm thick, made of finger-jointed pine or other softwoods. Its fibers are located transversely to the top layer, which makes it possible to protect the structure from various deformations and distortions.
4. Stabilization layer with longitudinally arranged fibers. This helps to reduce the tension of the layers and ensures a stable plank geometry. Thickness - up to 3 mm.

Thanks to this design, the parquet board, unlike solid wood boards, is not afraid of bending-bending and twisting deformations, and is resistant to temperature changes.

Another difference between a parquet board and a massive (solid) board is 4 laying methods: floating, glued, with hardware and on logs. If wooden floors act as the base, the first two methods are considered optimal. The table below shows their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" (substrate-independent) laying method	Adhesive mounting method
Easy and fast installation.	Laying takes time: first you need to apply glue, then remove the excess.
The connection is strong immediately after installation.	The joints become strong after the glue has completely dried.
The floor is ready for use after installation.	Pedestrian loads on the floor are allowed 12 hours after laying. Full setting occurs after 1-5 days, depending on the composition of the adhesive.
It is possible to correct errors during the operation of the floor covering.	Correction of defects during laying is problematic, and after completion of work it is almost impossible.
The standard set of tools is used.	In addition to the usual set, there is a special glue.
Damaged slats are easily replaced.	Replacing damaged boards is difficult.
It is possible to carry out repair works of the base.	Access to the base is difficult.
Quick dismantling.	Difficult dismantling.
The maximum laying area allowed by manufacturers is up to 240 m 2. Above - only with the use of transitional thresholds (aluminum or plastic).	The laying area is not limited.
The design is stable, but due to changes in temperature and humidity, it can slightly change its geometric dimensions.	The structure is stable.

Rules for laying on a wooden floor

The wooden floor is a capricious base. If you do not take into account all the factors, then very quickly there will be unpleasant creaks when walking, uneven coverage, local swelling and other defects. Therefore, manufacturers strongly recommend using the guidelines provided on inserts or in brochures.

Laying a parquet board on a wooden floor is carried out in 3 stages. Permissible temperature conditions for the installation period - from +18 to +25 ° С, humidity - 30-60%.

Preparing a wooden subfloor

A wooden or parquet floor does not have an ideal attachment to the base, which is why such defects as “humps”, squeaks, drops, gaps, etc. appear. The following events are being held:

1. Coarse sanding of the canvas with parquet and angle grinders.
2. Puttying the entire surface with a mixture of sawdust and putty base liquid. Either all joints, corners, junctions, gaps are sealed with a finished putty mass.
3. Re-grinding with a surface grinder. If there are strong swellings or “humps”, then they must be cut off, if possible, pulled to the concrete base with self-tapping screws, and fixed.

Often, for full alignment, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 12 mm or more. Fasten with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws every 30-50 cm crosswise, drown the caps by 3-4 mm before grinding. The compensation gap between the layers should be at least 5 mm. After installation on plywood, you also need to go through a grinder to level and fit the joints.

The finished base must be vacuumed and the surface can be treated with a primer with fungicidal additives. This will improve adhesion and protect the substrate from possible mold and bugs in the future.

More problematic is laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor. For him, full-fledged embroidering is recommended, that is, weak slats are identified and re-glued to the base. Filling of all defects and grinding is obligatory.

Preparing parquet boards for laying

The parquet board should "acclimatize" in the room. Therefore, 48 hours before laying, the packed flooring must be brought into the room and left. Unpacking is carried out immediately before installation.

Because wood is a natural product, slight variations in color, tone or texture may occur. In addition, some species darken in the first few days after unpacking (bamboo and others). This is a normal process, do not be afraid.

Experienced craftsmen prefer to first unpack the entire floorboard, inspect for defects and make a preliminary layout in order to know which planks will have to be cut.

It is not allowed to use pieces less than 50 cm long and less than 5 cm wide.

Installation must be carried out in a checkerboard pattern, that is, so that the joints do not match. Such laying will avoid geometric deformations in the future and increase the strength of the web.

Floating installation

With a change in temperature and humidity, wood products change their geometric dimensions - slightly narrow and expand. Therefore, compensation gaps of 10-15 mm should be left along the perimeter near the walls. This will protect the future floor from swelling.

The floor heating system must be turned off 6-8 hours before laying the parquet board. Installation starts from the far wall. A cork or polyethylene foam 3 mm thick is laid on the base.

Along the perimeter of the walls, columns, pipes and other vertical fixed structures, every 5 cm, home-made plastic or wooden limiters are installed.

At the first row, the protruding part of the groove is cut off. The first bar is laid, leveled, the second is brought to it and snaps into place. The same with the rest. The second row begins with a short (cropped) board.

Installation should be carried out from the connection of the end edges, then docking is carried out along the long side. The last row is cut to the desired size, but the width must be at least 5 cm. Knocking with a bar and a small hammer or mallet is allowed.

After completion of work, the restrictive wedges are removed, the plinth is mounted. Processing with varnish or oil compositions is not required, since the parquet board is already covered with special protective agents at the factory.

Adhesive laying

Mounting on glue is similar to the floating method, with the difference that a thick synthetic-based adhesive (Barlinek, Homakol, etc.) is applied to the base. Do not use water-dispersion mixtures.

At the first row, the protruding edge is cut off. Restrictive wedges are installed along the perimeter. Glue is applied to the floor and evenly distributed with a notched trowel. The strip should be slightly wider than the width of the parquet board.

A row is laid and pressed to the base. For safety, you can fix it with nails without hats or load it on top for a while until the glue dries. The next row begins with the distribution of a new portion of glue and laying the boards with an offset. After completion of work, the wedges are removed,.

So, we figured out how to lay a parquet board on a wooden floor. It is really simple and less expensive than installing massive parquet. Follow our recommendations and your coating will serve you for many years.

Video - laying parquet1 boards on plywood:

Parquet has long been considered one of the best flooring materials. To this day, such a natural coating remains popular, in particular for decorating rooms in both classic and modern styles. Many people are wondering how to lay parquet, or rather, what methods exist and what should be remembered in the course of this work. Modern technologies make it possible to lay with a minimum number of gaps.

Choice of parquet board

There are several factors that affect the life of the floor, its quality and other characteristics, namely:

• The thickness of the top layer. The service life of a parquet board directly depends on this indicator, since over time the surface is erased, scratches and other physical damage appear. This, in turn, further requires additional finishing - scraping and grinding.

Important! The greater the thickness of the top layer, the greater the number of processing steps that the coating can withstand without losing its performance.

• The total thickness of the board. The range of parquet board thickness is within 7-25 mm. In residential premises, it is recommended to lay parquet boards with a thickness of at least 13 mm. For laying on top of a concrete screed, it is advisable to choose a board of 22-25 mm, on plywood or logs - a smaller thickness is allowed.
• The type of wood and the quality of its processing. A quality board must be well sanded. If you find the slightest bumps, roughness and other defects, it is better to refuse the purchase. It is also necessary to pay attention to the type of wood - depending on the type of wood, the moisture resistance of the coating, its hardness and resistance to temperature extremes may differ.

Important! When choosing, you should take into account the conditions in a particular room: temperature, humidity level, expected loads.

• Dimensions. Standard overall dimensions are in the range of width 13-20 mm, length - 1.7-2.5 m. Can be single, double, triple or quadruple.
• Lock quality. The absence of chips, damage, as well as high-quality processing of the joints guarantees a simple and quick installation of the parquet board.
• Type and properties of the coating. In the event that the surface of the board is varnished, then it is worth asking about the number of layers applied - the wear resistance of the material and its durability will depend on this.

Important! The right type of wood will make it possible to avoid drying out and cracking of the material under conditions of high temperature or deformation at high humidity. For example, beech flooring is not recommended for use in rooms with 60% humidity.

Materials and tools

To make the result worthy, and to make it easier to work, you need to have the following tools and assistant materials at hand:

• Level.
• Plumb.
• Roulette.
• Beam or finishing bar.
• Pencil.
• Square.
• Saw.
• Wooden wedges.
• A hammer.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Sharply sharpened knife.
• Finishing crutch.
• Dowels, nails, screws.
• Styrofoam or roofing paper.
• Embedded bushings for pipes.
• Wear-resistant polyethylene.
• Glue (PVA or D3).

Rules for laying parquet boards

In order to properly lay parquet, the following must be considered:

• The main rule when laying - the base (floor) should be perfectly flat.

Important! However, there are still unevenness tolerances - 3 mm per several meters. Moreover, this defect can only be where the pit does not go into a hillock - in other words, non-roughness can only be smooth.

• Lay the parquet board only on a dry floor. If the screed is completely fresh, work is not worth it.

Important! To make sure that the screed is completely dry, you can use a special device. If you do not have such a device, then there is a proven method: oilcloth is laid on the surface for a day. If, after this time, condensation occurs on the material, the floor is not yet ready for parquet installation.

• It is recommended to leave the purchased material in the package indoors for a couple of days for “acclimatization”.
• If laying is carried out in a newly built building, then it is advisable to ventilate well and also heat it for a month.

Important! It is not recommended to lay parquet in an unheated room.

Foundation preparation

Before laying parquet, it is necessary to prepare the base. As mentioned above, it must be dry and as even as possible.

The amount of work depends on the basis, because:

• in multi-apartment brick or panel buildings, reinforced concrete flooring acts as the basis;
• in houses of old construction, floors can be made of lightweight types of concrete located on wooden or metal load-bearing beams;
• in private cottages or houses, special supports that were installed directly on the ground can serve as the basis.

In the case of laying parquet on a concrete base, it is necessary to level the floor. The screed is made exclusively for dry leveling. Then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer.

Important! If there is moisture in the concrete floor, additional waterproofing work must be carried out.

Work on the installation of the finishing coating is carried out only after the screed has completely dried - no less than 28 days after pouring. When leveling the base with plywood sheets and a log, the space between the logs is filled with mineral wool, and the sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Important! When laying on a subfloor, wooden or metal floors are used, hydro- and thermal insulation is made using polyurethane, plastic film, mineral wool or other materials.

Ways of laying a parquet board

There are two main ways to properly lay parquet. Let's deal with each of them in more detail.

floating way

Most manufacturers make a board equipped with a locking joint, which eliminates the need for glue. The groove-lock connection is durable, withstands heavy loads, and is resistant to humidity and temperature extremes.

Laying parquet on a screed without plywood involves the use of a substrate that provides additional hydro and thermal insulation. The backing can be made from synthetic materials or cork. Its thickness should not exceed 3 mm, otherwise the floor will deform under load.

The installation process is carried out as follows:

• Remove all dust and debris from the surface of the screed with a vacuum cleaner.
• Lay hydro- and heat-insulating layer. Joints are sealed.
• Measure the room and select the required amount of material. All technical holes for pipes and other communications are drilled in the parquet board.
• The first board is positioned with a tenon in the direction of the long wall, providing a gap of 8-10 mm using a wooden wedge.

Important! The gap is necessary to compensate for expansion under the influence of temperature changes.

• The second board is set at an angle of 25-30 degrees relative to the first - when lowered, the lock snaps into place. With the help of a hammer and a finishing bar, carefully, so as not to spoil the lock, additional sealing of the joint is made. Subsequent boards are attached in the same way.
• When reaching the end wall, the board is cut to the desired length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. The cut point should be located in the direction of the wall - after completion of work, it will be closed with a plinth.
• A plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

This installation method has several advantages:

1. The room is ready for use immediately after completion of work.
2. The coating is easily repaired - in case of damage, individual parts can be replaced without the need to remove the entire floor.
3. It is possible to dismantle and reuse the material.

The disadvantages include the following factors:

• There is a limit on the area of ​​the room - no more than 50 square meters.
• Walking makes more noise.
• More complex processing must be done using a grinder.

Adhesive method

Correctly laying parquet on plywood or OSB board with glue is quite simple. However, the following points must be taken into account when working:

• Laying is carried out from the far corner of the room in relation to the entrance doors.
• In contrast to the “floating” method of laying parquet, bonding requires a perfectly flat surface without any unevenness.
• It is possible to lay parquet on a wooden floor only after careful scraping and polishing.
• The best characteristics for gluing parquet have a two-component polyurethane adhesive.
• Gluing is carried out both to the base and along the entire perimeter of the board (both in width and length).
• For additional fixation, nails or self-tapping screws can be used, which connect the lower part of the interlock to the plywood base.
• The temperature in the room should be at least 18 degrees, the humidity in the range of 40-60 percent, the humidity of the screed should not exceed 12 percent.
• Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB board should be fixed firmly.
• Walking on the floor surface is allowed only after it has completely dried.

Important! The adhesive method of fastening gives a greater rigidity of the floor in comparison with the “floating”, the coating as a result produces less noise during walking on it. At the same time, the repair and dismantling of such a time is more problematic.

No matter how the developers of innovative flooring try to improve the material, the eye of the intelligent owner of residential property invariably turns to the parquet and massive classics. Despite the colossal number of advanced achievements in this area, the question of how competent do-it-yourself parquet laying is still relevant. After all, home craftsmen who are trying to lay an amazing patterned floor from wooden planks have not yet died out and are unlikely to.

The main secrets of laying parquet

Parquet flooring is a complex structure consisting of one or more underlying layers and a top covering made of wooden planks. Dies are also called planks, parquets or rivets. Represented by wooden elements of predominantly rectangular configuration in plan, front and profile. Along the perimeter, the plates are equipped with grooves and ridges for fastening.

The visible component of the parquet floor

The width of the staves is usually a multiple of the length, which makes it easy to create a variety of geometric ornaments. Parquet width standards are 5-7.5 cm, lengths are 21-49 cm according to GOST, numbered 862.1-85. The values ​​​​of the thickness indicated in the data sheets start from 14 mm and end at 22 mm.

Note. The optimal thickness of the parquet floor for the arrangement of residential premises is considered to be 15-18 mm. For thinner strips, the working layer is quickly erased, especially if scraping is often carried out. Thick parquets are not elastic.

The material for parquet flooring can be supplied not only in the form of rectangular planks. On sale are ready-made panels with parquet floor fragments assembled on a coniferous base and modules fastened on top according to the principle of ceramic mosaic with cardboard or paper.

Base hidden from view

The number and technical characteristics of the underlying elements depend on the type and condition of the draft base, which most often appear as:

• concrete floors: prefabricated or monolithic floors with or without screed;
• wooden beams with lags installed for laying flooring;
• plank floor, the floorboards of which, after repair and polishing, serve as a rough base.

According to the instructions of SNiP number 3.04.01-87, it is allowed to lay riveting or finished parquet boards on a prepared base. Within 2 meters of the completed preparation, height deviations of no more than 2 mm can be recorded. Those. when installing a 2-meter rail on the subfloor in an arbitrary vector direction max, the clearance between this control device and the surface can be only 2 mm, preferably less. The slope is acceptable, but its size is limited by the same reference book: max 0.2%, not exceeding 5 cm.

The primary goal of the independent parquet floorer is to form a rough base that meets the technical requirements. The number and type of upcoming operations determines the material from which the rough base is made and the degree of wear.

Tasks of using moisture resistant plywood

The second stage, the result of which is to be admired and brag about, is the piece-by-piece laying of the elements on the prepared base. The top layer of preparation according to the vast majority of technological schemes is a moisture-resistant plywood substrate, because it:

• serves as a reliable module for fixing small-caliber parquet floor rivets;
• compensates for the difference in thermal expansion of the concrete base and the wood coating;
• eliminates suction from the ceiling and from the subfloor of moisture that can render expensive natural material unusable;
• performs the function of a cutting element in the case of a floating floor device;
• plays the role of a leveling layer.

If it is possible or necessary to reduce the height of the ceilings by 5 cm or more, you can simply purchase sets of adjustable floors with the Knauf brand and prepare both for concrete and wood in one day. The products of the same manufacturer should be used if expanded clay as a heater is to be carried out over a cold basement.

So, we found out that plywood should be used. There are plenty of ways to level it. Let's forget for a while about the existence of factory kits for dry screed and analyze the budget options for preparation, the implementation of which will require inexpensive building materials and our own strength.

Three preparation options

The quality of the leveling carried out before the installation of the parquet floor affects the number of finishing operations and the duration of the coating. Those who wish to lay the parquet securely and aesthetically with their own hands should be aware that due to defects in the base:

• loosen, crack and after a very short period of time the ridges of the parquet will break;
• the floor will creak unmercifully;
• you will have to carry out additional grinding, thinning the working layer of the material. As a result, the number of scraping-grindings required for the subsequent restoration of the parquet floor is reduced.

In order to avoid such unsightly consequences, let's consider how the three types of bases for parquet are leveled.

Conditions and schemes for pouring the screed

The screed is poured mainly to eliminate defects in concrete floors:

• Level differences and defects within 1-2 cm are removed by grinding the concrete floor, followed by pouring either cement-sand or polymer leveling mortar. Before the screed device, the base is primed twice with a penetrating compound. A two-component polyurethane primer will stabilize and strengthen the top layers of the subfloor and will perform the function of waterproofing.
• For flaws greater than 2 cm, it will be necessary to refill the leveling layer with the laying of polyethylene as a waterproofing and a cut-off layer. From polyethylene strips, you need to build a kind of pallet with 10 cm sides. Because layer thickness is usually 3-4 cm, mainly sand-cement mixtures with reinforcement are used for leveling. It is more economical and convenient to reinforce with polypropylene fiber, but it is also possible with a mesh.

The layer of cement-sand leveling under the parquet should harden for at least 4 weeks. According to rounded folk calculations, 1 week is allotted for curing 1 cm of the screed. At the end of the specified period, laying should also not be in a hurry if the fastening of the dies is planned to be carried out directly to the leveling layer. You need to wait more than 5-6, even better 7 weeks, until moisture stops escaping from the screed.

Attention. If it is planned to glue the parquet directly to the primed screed, cement mixtures with M150-300 grades must be used to fill it. They are characterized by high compressive strength. Glue for parquet flooring will need elastic.

It is not necessary to wait for complete curing if moisture-resistant plywood is laid on top of the fill. 28 days are enough, and it can be fixed with screws or dowel-nails to a leveled floor. For this, plywood sheets are cut into 4 parts and laid with a run-up according to the principle of brickwork. Cut to minimize expansion and eliminate undulations. Between the quartered segments leave gaps of 2-3 mm for linear compression-expansion. The hats of the hardware are sunk 3-5 mm into the plywood so as not to damage the grinding machine disc later.

Attention. If, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is also used to fix plywood sheets to the screed, it is recommended to purchase it with the same brand and properties as the primer in order to optimize adhesion.

When using glue, the process of laying parquet on a plywood substrate will need to be postponed. You will have to wait for the curing period specified by the manufacturer of the binder. After that, the plywood preparation is sanded along the seams in order to remove the height differences of adjacent sheets, as well as dirt and factory flaws.

Between the walls and the plywood layer around the perimeter, you need to leave a technological gap of 0.9 - 1.2 cm. It is formed using spacer wedges. Spacers are not removed until the parquet flooring is completely laid. Only upon completion of laying, they need to be pulled out, the gap created by the wedges should be filled with mounting foam so that moisture does not get on the side faces in the future. From above, the foamed seam is closed with a plinth.

Attention. The plinth is attached only to the walls, its slats do not fit tightly with the parquet. There must be at least 1 mm between the parquet flooring and the plinth.

Lags as a way of leveling

It is also a dry screed method, which allows not to stretch the floor construction process for many months due to long technological breaks. For the construction, a beam with sides of 4 and 5 cm is used. Work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• Lags are installed after 30 cm, fastened with screws or corners to a concrete or wooden draft base. Between the ends of the beam and the walls, you need to leave a traditional gap for linear expansion.
• It is leveled in a horizontal plane by adding sand, if the rough base is made of concrete, by lining wedges, roofing felt or parchment inserts, if the base is made of wood. The excess is cut off with a planer.
• In plywood cut into 4 equal parts, 9 holes are baited in advance, through which they are fastened to the logs with self-tapping screws. The principle of brick laying is observed by default, as is the deformation indent around the perimeter. No cross connections are allowed.
• By analogy, a second layer of plywood substrate is constructed. Only quartered sheets are stacked with an offset so that the seams of the first row do not coincide with the seams of the second. The first layer of plywood is treated with a primer, then with glue. Then self-tapping screws are twisted, the size of which depends on the total thickness of the plywood layer.
• After the glue dries, sanding is performed.

The plywood substrate is laid on the logs in two layers, the total height of which should be approximately equal to 30 mm. The thickness of the plywood laid on the screed is determined by the thickness of the parquet. Usually it is less than the equivalent parquet size by 5 mm.

Plank floor preparation

It consists in the repair and grinding of floorboards, if their thickness after processing with a grinding unit does not become less than 30 mm. Otherwise, the boards will have to be dismantled and new material laid on top of which parquet planks will be attached.

If the board simply replaces the first layer of plywood, its thickness in total with the thickness of the substrate may not exceed 3 cm. And it can be laid with centimeter gaps to ensure ventilation and temperature movement.

Note. It is advisable to choose a primer for glue for wooden floors with antistatic properties.

Technological procedure for laying parquet

Parquet installers have at their disposal a lot of options for laying out slabs: from the simplest “deck” with a “herringbone” pattern to complex artistic drawings with mosaic modules and borders. In anticipation of the work, a layout plan is drawn up, which can be directed along any of the walls or at a 45º angle. Corner laying is advised to start from the central row. The same should be done if you do not get whole rows of the selected pattern.

To orient the first row, they construct something like a mooring cord. Two nails are driven into the plywood from opposite sides of the row planned for laying, and a fishing line is pulled over them.

It is not forbidden to use one-component glue, but it is better to spend money and buy a two-component one. It will definitely not emit water harmful to the parquet.

In principle, the technology of laying parquet is quite simple, it consists in sequentially performing the following steps:

• the prepared surface is carefully covered with soil;
• with a spatula-comb, glue is applied to a small area, because. the binder dries extremely quickly;
• a pre-assembled fragment of two or three dies is laid on the glue, taking into account the landmark-mooring. Parquets are glued with some effort. Excess glue squeezed out from under the parquet should be removed immediately;
• you can fasten each installed bar with two or three nails or studs through a comb. Hammer the hardware at an angle of 45º. Nail heads should be sunk into the comb with a parquet nailer. Fastening parquet can be done through three elements;
• completely laid parquet is left for the period of curing of the glue;
• then they grind in two or more steps, changing the sanding paper at each stage to an analog with smaller grain sizes. Grind until the defects that appeared during operation are cut off;
• open with a stain, if there is a desire to change the color of the floor, then varnish in 3-9 layers.

There are many wisdoms in the technology of building a parquet floor. However, there is nothing extremely complicated. Of course, the parquet laid for the first time is unlikely to look like the floors in Versailles, but it's worth a try. Will it come out better?

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