Parquet flooring. How to lay a parquet board: methods and technology for the correct laying of a parquet board Arrangement of a floor from a parquet board on wood

Hardwood flooring is a popular floor covering that you can install yourself if you choose the right materials and spend some time learning about existing installation methods. Today we will talk about the parquet board and common technologies for its installation.

Parquet board - characteristics and design features

The first prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when a method was invented in Sweden to replace expensive piece parquet with a more affordable board. Initially, the board was two-layer, but after 5 years, three-layer facing materials appeared on the market, which have survived to this day almost unchanged.

Currently, parquet boards are produced with various varnish and oil coatings. Such facing materials allow, with relatively small financial investments, to attractively and aesthetically decorate the floor in an apartment or a private house. On the market, they are presented in the widest range of colors, textures and technical characteristics, so that the cladding can be chosen for almost any interior.

A modern board is a three-layer shield made of natural wood, up to 2.6 m long, 13 mm thick and 139–210 mm wide. Finish specifications vary by manufacturer. The top layer of wood is always covered with protective oil or varnish mixtures, which not only prolong the life of the cladding, but also make the board as attractive as possible.

The bottom layer of the finishing material is made of spruce veneer 2–4 mm thick. It acts as a stabilizer, prevents deformation of other layers and protects them from negative influences. The middle layer has a thickness of 8 mm, it is made of pine planks up to 30 mm wide, which are laid out across the entire width of the product. The top or front layer is lamellas with a thickness of 5 mm or more, made of reliable wood of expensive species. The slats are laid along the entire length of the board and are securely fixed to the middle layer with glue. The top layer provides the parquet board with its excellent visual characteristics and long service life.

The top layer of the cladding is subjected to grinding and additionally treated with protective mixtures. During operation, the board can be re-sanded and re-treated with varnish or oil compositions. Since the material allows at least three grindings and re-coatings, the board can serve the owner of the house for several decades. The fibers of the layers are arranged perpendicular to each other, so that the floor covering is not subject to deformation due to changes in humidity and ambient temperature.

Laying a parquet board without much difficulty can be done independently, since this material has a tongue and groove locking system.

3 styling methods - which one to choose for yourself?

Before purchasing a finishing material, it is necessary to understand the existing methods of its installation. There are three options for fixing parquet panels on the floor surface:

1. 1. On glue.
2. 2. Floating method.
3. 3. On the logs.

All three mounting options have their own unique features, advantages and disadvantages. The most common method is floating installation, but it is only suitable if parquet slabs with a thickness of no more than 14 mm are installed. The main advantage of the floating method lies in its simplicity - even people who do not have any experience in working with facing materials can easily perform laying, and the floor can be safely operated immediately after the repair is completed.

The adhesive installation method involves fixing the boards on the base with passing gluing of the facing layer elements together. This method is usually used when installing dies with a thickness of more than 14 mm. The disadvantages of installing on glue include the complexity of installation work, as well as additional costs for the purchase of an adhesive composition.

The mechanical installation method is fixing the boards with self-tapping screws on a wooden base or on logs. It is usually used for mounting panels with a thickness of more than 20 mm and involves fastening with self-tapping screws that are screwed into the groove of the board at a certain angle. That is, it is necessary to choose the method of installing the board not only taking into account personal preferences and capabilities, but also depending on the thickness of the facing materials used.

How to prepare the base for the installation of facing materials

The procedure for installing the coating will largely depend on the condition of the subfloor. Usually, the preparation of the base includes three stages of work. First, the floor is restored, then adjustments and cleaning are carried out, after which it is already possible to proceed directly to the installation.

To begin, consider the procedure for preparing for facing a wooden floor. First of all, it is necessary to assess the condition of the foundation. If the floor is new, does not have significant defects and significant differences in height, and the boards are not infected with fungus and mold, then the coating does not need to be restored. If you need to veneer the old floor, then it will almost certainly need to be repaired. Typically, wood floor repairs involve replacing individual damaged boards.

If repairs can often be dispensed with, then adjustment of the base before facing is almost always required. Most often, wood flooring has deflections of boards, knots and cracks. In the presence of deflections, individual elements have to be strengthened, knots are removed by grinding, and cracks are sealed with improvised means. It is very important to check the surface for evenness before installing the finish cladding. If the base is curved, then before laying the board it will have to be treated with sanding equipment or puttied. After these adjustments, it remains only to carry out a thorough cleaning of the premises.

If you plan to lay parquet materials on a concrete base, then the procedure for its preparation will most likely require a minimum of effort. The concrete floor should first be inspected for cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle concrete where it crumbles. Found defects must be eliminated. The easiest way to do this is with a self-levelling compound. If the floor is in very poor condition, it will be easier to dismantle the old coating and pour in a new screed, which will definitely be even and strong enough for finishing.

Regardless of the installation method chosen, it is best to lay the parquet board on a layer of a special substrate. The substrate between the rough coating and the final facing performs a number of important functions:

1. 1. Smoothes minor unevenness of the base.
2. 2. Improves the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the cladding.
3. 3. Reduces the chance of moisture getting into the wood finish.
4. 4. Evenly distributes the load on all elements of the cladding.
5. 5. In general, prolongs the life of the finish.

Usually foamed polyethylene is used as a substrate, although today substrates are very popular with owners. duplex, layers of foil materials, polystyrene and cork.

Step-by-step instructions for installing on glue - do it together

Adhesive installation is a rather complicated and labor-intensive way of laying a floor covering. Modern adhesives harden very quickly, so no mistakes should be made during installation, because it will be very difficult to fix them. Installation on glue involves the installation of cladding plates directly on the base, so the floor must be perfectly flat and clean.

It is not recommended to lay the board directly on the concrete floor, as the floor in this case will be very cold. It is better to lay moisture-resistant plywood on the surface first. Plywood is cut into squares with a length of one side from 60 to 80 cm. The sheets are first glued to concrete (glue is smeared both on the floor and on plywood sheets), after which they are additionally fixed with dowels. There should be a gap of 3-5 mm between the individual plywood sheets so that they do not deform during thermal expansion. It will be possible to start further installation after 2-3 days from the moment the plywood is fixed, so that the glue has time to dry completely. After drying, the surface is sanded to remove adhesive residue, burrs and possible irregularities.

Now you can attach the parquet board to the plywood. To do this, we recommend using a two-component polyurethane adhesive, mix it immediately before use. The first board is attached near one of the walls. We carefully coat it with glue and press it to the base so that its groove is directed towards the opposite wall, and there is a gap of about 1–1.5 cm between it and the nearest wall. In order not to make a mistake, first place pegs or thin bars near the wall, which can be removed after installation.

The first board must be fixed more tightly on the base, for this we fasten it to the plywood with self-tapping screws. We screw the self-tapping screws into the front side in places where the skirting boards will be installed after installation. Then you need to coat the second board with glue and insert its spike into the groove of the first cladding element, and after that we knock the second board so that it connects as tightly as possible with the first. Thus, we install all the boards of the row to the wall. If necessary, we cut the last board along, and after installation we fix it with self-tapping screws, like the first one. Each subsequent row is also mounted, difficulties may arise only with the last row, which may have to be cut to length.

Floating method - simple and fast

Floating laying technology is rightfully considered the simplest and fastest. It involves fixing facing materials in a dry way using the provided locking system, without glue and self-tapping screws. Before starting laying, the lining must be brought into the room and left there for two days. After that, a special substrate is laid on the floor, which protects the parquet from excess moisture.

First, the first board of the first row is laid with a ridge against the wall. Then the second board of the first row is inserted into the lock of the first board until a characteristic click and is securely fixed by several blows with a special hammer. Laying continues until you reach the wall, at the wall the board is usually cut lengthwise so that there is a gap of 10 mm between it and the wall. After that, we proceed to the installation of the next row of cladding.

To increase the reliability of fixation, the ends of the boards can be pre-lubricated with glue. On the one hand, such a connection will be more reliable, but on the other hand, it will deprive the floating installation method of the main advantage, which consists in the possibility, if necessary, to perform a simple repair of the floor through its partial disassembly and replacement of damaged elements.

Features of mounting the cladding on the logs

Laying the finish on the logs is much more difficult than mounting in a floating way. First you need to carry out the installation of the crate, which is made of wooden bars. For mounting the log, bars with a cross section of 50–100 mm are used. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete base, the insulation strips are interconnected with adhesive tape. The waterproofing should go onto the walls to a height of about 20 cm. The first log is laid on the waterproofing along the length of the wall and with a distance of no more than 5 cm from the wall. Logs are laid along all walls in exactly the same way, and then they are connected and leveled. Smaller lags are laid between them, which should form squares. The distance between individual bars should be no more than 35–40 cm.

After checking and leveling the lag, they are fixed on the base with dowels. Many experts recommend filling the empty space between the lags with sand so that the parquet does not sag, if you don’t want to use sand, you can simply install the bars at a smaller distance from each other, for example, in increments of 25 cm.

Now you can start installing the board. The first workpiece is placed with a comb to the wall at a distance of 10 mm and fixed on the logs with nails, hammering them into the lower base of the board at an angle of 45 °. Hats must be sunk into the board with a doboynik. The next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one and snapped into place, after which it is fixed with nails on the logs. The boards should fit snugly against each other, the allowable gap is no more than 0.5 cm. The last board is cut in width so that there is a gap of at least 1 cm between it and the wall. After that, the subsequent rows of cladding are installed using the same technology.

"Warm floor" and parquet board - is it possible to combine?

The parquet board has good sound and heat insulation characteristics, but you can make living in the premises even more comfortable if you install a "warm floor" heating system. However, not all heating systems are suitable for installation under wood cladding. Professionals believe that a water heated floor is allowed, but the use of electrical systems must be abandoned, as they create too high a temperature, the effect of which on the facing materials can lead to their premature damage, cracking and other defects.

Installation of the cladding must be carried out over a switched off and completely cooled down heating system. After completion of installation work, turning on the heating is possible no earlier than after 2-3 days. After this time, you can gradually turn on the heating, but at the minimum temperature, increasing it by several degrees daily until it reaches the desired level.

It is very important to pay attention to the allowable temperature exposure to the cladding before buying it. Many types of parquet boards can withstand contact with a temperature of no more than 25-27 degrees. Choose those finishing materials that can withstand the temperature effects created by the heating system installed in your home.

Parquet board is rightfully considered one of the most aesthetic and durable flooring options for any room - be it a kitchen, bedroom, living room or corridor. But even such a high-quality and spectacular material can be easily spoiled by unsuccessful installation. How to avoid such trouble? Hire a construction team or still try to lay the parquet board with your own hands? Definitely the second option. This is a completely feasible task if you do the installation according to the instructions, step by step, based on photo and video installation technology. Specifically, what and how to do, you will learn further.

Choosing a quality coating

Before proceeding with the installation, it is important to choose a good board that will meet all the operational requirements of your room. From the point of view of practicality and durability, the best option is a massive parquet board. It consists of three layers:

• The working top is made of solid wood. It can have a thickness of 1 to 6 mm. For additional protection, it must be covered with a special varnish or oil.

• The middle layer is short plates of hard conifers. Here are the connecting parts for connecting the boards to each other.
• The bottom layer of solid material is made of soft coniferous wood. Its thickness is not less than 2 mm. The main function of the bottom layer is to prevent the board from buckling.

A cheaper, but also less durable option is a multi-layer parquet board: the top layer is softwood, the middle layer is plywood, the bottom layer is the same treated plywood or spruce or pine boards. This finish is stylized as a print of solid boards or traditional parquet.

Preparing the subfloor

Before the start of laying the boards, you need to correctly prepare the subfloor so that in the future there will be no problems with the appearance of the coating.

First, clean the base from cement, paint, glue, hardeners and other coatings. If there are cracks and bulges on the floor, the surface must be leveled. To do this, you can use a self-leveling mixture, cement screed or plywood.

The last option has proven itself best - plywood sheets not only level the floor, but also make it warmer. It is not difficult to lay them: the sheets must be attached to the base of the floor with ordinary self-tapping screws with gaps of at least 5 mm, and then processed with a grinder.

Attention! An important point is the humidity of the floor. Its rate should not be higher than 3%. Humidity can be measured with a moisture meter. If the level is above 3%, lay a vapor barrier film on the base and cover the joints with construction tape.

After leveling the floor, you need to mount a special substrate on it - it will separate the new coating from the rough base. As a substrate can be used:

• leaf cork;
• foamed polyethylene;
• felt cardboard;
• extruded polystyrene foam.

After the arrangement of the substrate and the complete drying of the base, proceed to laying the parquet board. This can be done in two ways: glue and floating.

Advice. Whichever installation option you choose, before installing the boards, let them rest for two or three days in the room where they will be laid - this will allow the material to “get used” to the new climatic conditions.

Adhesive board laying

This option involves laying boards by gluing them to the base of the floor, that is, to the substrate. When purchasing an adhesive, make sure that it is exactly the right one for your type of parquet. Installation is carried out in several stages:

• Treat the base with a synthetic primer.
• When the primer dries, lay out the first row of boards on the floor and schematically mark their location.
• Take the first board, carefully apply glue to it and fix it to the floor.

Attention! Between the wall and the parquet board there should be gaps of at least 6 mm and not more than 12 mm.

• Take the second board, apply glue to it and join its spikes with the grooves of the first one, or knock them together using a special block. Then firmly press the boards to the base.
• Lay the entire first row on the glue in the same way. The last board will always have to be cut - first draw a saw line on it, and then cut it.
• Insert small expansion wedges into the expansion gaps between the parquet and the wall.

• After laying the first two rows, check that there are no gaps between the boards, and then again firmly press the planks to the floor.
• Follow the same steps until the entire floor is laid out.
• When the work is completed, treat the seams with cork chips or acrylic sealant. You can also put a metal threshold.

The drying period of the parquet board is one to two days, depending on the class of adhesive. At this time, it is absolutely impossible to allow changes in humidity in the room.

floating mounting method

The second option for laying parquet boards is floating, which involves joining boards without the use of glue, but by means of locking elements. Installation also consists of several stages:

• Start laying from the left corner of the room. Take the first board and cut off its grooves with a planer - it will fit against the wall, so there should be no protruding parts. Lay the first board in the corner, leaving a gap of 8-10 mm.
• Take the second board and lay it with the lock to the previous one, gently pressing forward and down until the lock and the groove meet.

Advice. To ensure that the boards are well connected to each other, during the laying process, gently tap on them with a rubber mallet.

• Do the same for the entire first row. There should also be a gap of 8-10 mm between the last board and the wall. After completing the first row, special wedges must be inserted into the gaps.
• Start the second row on the side where you completed the first. Lay the remaining rows in the same way until the entire floor surface is covered. Do not forget to leave gaps and insert wedges into them - they can be removed only after installation is completed.

Pay special attention to laying the boards near the threshold - after each plank, check whether the doors open freely. If there are difficulties, just cut the boards to length.

Remember that the installation of a parquet board in a floating way is a good option only for small rooms - if the floor surface is large, then the parquet, fastened with locks and grooves, simply cannot maintain its integrity for a long time.

We install skirting boards and carry out cleaning work

The final stage of laying any parquet board is the installation of the skirting board and cleaning the floor. The plinth must be laid around the entire perimeter. This can be done in two ways:

1. Mounting on special locks. A very simple, but not entirely practical option, since such locks often fail during intensive use, as a result of which the plinth begins to move away from the wall.
2. Mounting on self-tapping screws and dowels. A more complicated and time-consuming method, but such skirting boards are as durable as possible.

After completing the installation of the skirting board, the entire floor surface should be cleaned of dirt and dust that have accumulated during the installation process. This can be done with a special brush or vacuum cleaner. Also, if you bought a board without a factory oil-wax coating, the parquet should be treated with appropriate products to give it a spectacular shine and protect it from moisture and other troubles. And if you have already purchased a fully finished parquet, you can limit yourself to cleaning it.

As you can see, it is really possible to perform high-quality and beautiful laying of parquet boards in your own home even without the help of professionals. The main thing is to follow the installation instructions and follow simple tips for working with the finish.

Instructions for laying parquet boards: video

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: photo

Among all the variety of modern flooring, parquet board occupies a special place. The floors created with its help give the room nobility and reflect the good taste of the owners. Parquet has always been an expensive material, the laying of which required high skills and craftsmanship, but with the development of wood processing technologies, laying parquet boards has become much easier. Today, all laying work can be done independently, and for their successful implementation, it will be enough to be able to handle the tool and know the technology of laying parquet boards.

Laying a parquet board is quite possible to do it yourself, the technology is not so complicated

Choice of parquet board

The parquet board is produced in several variations

Today, the buyer can choose from two types of parquet boards: massive and multilayer. The main difference between them lies in the method of production. So, for the production of massive parquet boards, whole pieces of wood, both coniferous and hardwood, are used. The fasteners are the groove and ridge on the ends of the board. The price of such a board is quite high, since its production requires a large piece of valuable wood.

Multilayer parquet board consists of two or three layers of wooden planks glued together. To give strength, each layer is laid at right angles to the previous one, and different types of wood are used to create unique performance characteristics. The top layer of lamellas is made of hard rocks. For the second layer, softwoods are used. For the third layer, plywood or previously rejected spruce or pine lamellas up to 4 mm thick are used. The price of a multi-layer parquet board is somewhat lower, since smaller pieces of wood are required for its production.

Types of parquet boards depending on the number of planks

Also, the parquet board differs in the number of rows of planks: single-lane, two-lane, three- And four-lane. The most popular is the three-strip board, as it is most closely styled like parquet and is affordable. A four-strip parquet board is the cheapest - the narrowest lamellas are used in its production, but this type of board allows you to implement various design ideas due to the contrasting combination of lamellas. One-strip and two-strip parquet boards are the most expensive. Their production requires the widest lamellas of valuable wood. Thanks to this, the room looks the most rich and solemn.

The thickness of the parquet board ranges from 7 mm to 22 mm. This parameter determines how the board will be laid. So, parquet boards up to 20 mm thick should be laid only on a solid surface, and a board 22 mm thick can be laid directly on the logs. In addition, the thickness of the board affects the heat, sound and noise insulation in the room.

Laying parquet board: video instruction

Technology of laying parquet boards

Despite the fact that laying parquet boards with your own hands is quite simple, you can ruin the flooring if you do not follow a certain laying technology. In order for the parquet board to serve for a long time, you must adhere to the following rules:

• well-prepared base. Preparation consists in creating a solid, even surface without deep drops and cracks. A small difference of 2 mm per 1 m linear is allowed;
• a certain level of humidity. Despite the development of modern technologies in the field of protecting wood from moisture, laying parquet in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet or other rooms with a high level of humidity is not recommended;
• before laying the parquet board must "get used" to the microclimate of the room. So that after the completion of all work, the surface retains its integrity and does not warp, the parquet board after purchase and delivery should be left indoors for 48 hours;
• during laying, it is necessary to adhere to a certain temperature and humidity level. The temperature should not be lower than +18 ° C, and the humidity should be 35 - 65%;
• the presence of hydro and thermal insulation. Since the parquet board is exposed to temperature and moisture, it must be additionally insulated. For this, a substrate is laid, consisting of a layer of waterproofing and thermal insulation;
• certain direction of laying. To make the joints of the parquet board panels less noticeable, it should be laid in the direction of the rays of light;
• if the rooms where the parquet board will be laid have a "warm floor" system, it is necessary to create a separate floor covering from the parquet board for each room. This is due to the fact that the temperature in each room is different and can fluctuate significantly.

Foundation preparation

Before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. This applies primarily to the base on which the laying will be carried out. The installation of the parquet board itself can be performed on a concrete or wooden base, the main thing is that it be strong and even. Therefore, if the floors in the house are created from scratch, they must be made based on the future laying of the parquet board. If the old floors will act as the basis, they will have to be completely revised and, if necessary, repaired.

Wooden base preparation

If you plan to lay on a previously used wooden base, then you will have to perform the following work. First of all, remove the old flooring and make sure that the wooden floor does not fall through anywhere, does not creak, there are no large differences between the boards, and all structural elements are firmly fixed. If everything is in order, then you can start laying the parquet board. Otherwise, you will have to work hard. In the case when the wooden floor is durable, but the floorboards have dried up from time to time, and large differences in height have appeared between them, the floor can simply be cycled or leveled with PVA-based putty. If, upon inspection of the floor, it was revealed that the floorboards were loose and poorly fixed, then they would have to be fixed with self-tapping screws to the logs, and the surface should be scraped or puttied. The most time-consuming and difficult will be the repair of damaged logs. To do this, you will have to completely disassemble the structure of the wooden floor. If the logs sagged in places, then they should be lifted by placing a block or wood chip under them. But if one or more lags are rotten, they will have to be completely replaced. It is necessary to pay special attention to the level of the lag, they must all be strictly horizontal and in the same plane. As soon as the logs are repaired, you need to reassemble the entire structure of the wooden floor and start laying the parquet board.

Preparation of the concrete base

The work on preparing the concrete base is an order of magnitude smaller, and they are simpler. First of all, we remove the old floor covering and check the floor for cracks, bumps and breaks. If the floor is in good condition and has small cracks or irregularities, then it can be primed and a self-levelling screed can be poured on top. After it has completely dried, you can start laying the parquet board. In the case when the concrete base has crumbled and turned into dust in some places, you will have to completely remove the old screed with a puncher and lay it again, and only after it has completely dried, start laying the parquet board.

How to lay a parquet board

There are several ways to install a parquet board. There are only three of them: floating, adhesive and with the help of fasteners. It should be noted right away that the first two laying options require the creation of a solid base on which the parquet board will be laid. These laying methods are suitable for panels of any thickness and for any type of substrate. Installation of a parquet board with the help of fasteners is carried out directly on the logs or a wooden base. Moreover, only a parquet board with a thickness of 20 - 22 mm can be laid on the logs. To know how to properly lay a parquet board, you need to familiarize yourself with each of these methods in more detail.

floating laying method

The floating method of laying parquet board is considered the easiest

This installation method is the simplest, fastest and requires minimal labor. It consists in laying a parquet board on a substrate and connecting the panels to each other in a lock. To install a parquet board in this way, you must do the following:

• we lay a layer of waterproofing on a previously prepared base. For this, a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is suitable. To get a solid surface, we overlap the film sheets with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm and glue them together with adhesive tape. We also make an overlap on the walls of 10 - 15 cm;

Cork or polyethylene foam can be used as a substrate

• We lay the substrate on the film with the second layer. It can be cork, polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam. We lay the cork and polystyrene foam end-to-end, and the polyethylene foam overlaps. We glue all joints with adhesive tape;

Important! Styrofoam mats should be laid "in a row". This will result in a stronger and more stable surface.

• just before laying, we carry out small calculations of the number of rows of parquet boards. This must be done so that if the last row has to be cut, its width is 5 cm or more. If less, then we cut the first and last rows and make them the same width;

• We connect the panels of the first row together, lay them with a spike against the wall. In order for the parquet board to fit snugly against the wall, the spike must be cut off in advance;
• In order to avoid swelling and damage to the parquet board due to changes in the seasonal humidity level, a gap of 10-15 mm must be left between the wall and the board. And to save it, we drive in special pegs;
• to create a durable floor covering from a parquet board, it must be laid “in a row”. Therefore, we start laying the second row with a panel whose length is 2/3 of the normal one;
• the panels of the second row are first connected to each other, and then the entire row moves towards the first, after which it is connected to it;

We finish the parquet board with a hammer through a wooden block

Important! All work on finishing the panels and creating an integral surface is carried out by finishing the panels in place with a hammer through a wooden block.

• we start laying the third row with a panel, the length of which is 1/3 of the normal one;
• the fourth row we start with a whole panel of parquet boards. Laying of all remaining rows is carried out in the same way as the first four rows;

Important! The last panel in each row should be finished off with a hammer and clamp.

The plinth should hide the gap between the wall and the first row of parquet boards

• as soon as the last parquet board is laid, we take out the bursting pegs and install the plinth;
• We attach the plinth to the kleimers, which are fixed to the wall. We set the first kleimers with an indent of 15 - 20 cm from the corner, we install the rest in increments of 40 - 50 cm.

In the process of laying the parquet board, you will have to face some installation difficulties near the pipes of the heating or water supply riser, as well as the doorway. In order for the floor covering in these places to look perfect, it is necessary to carefully cut the parquet board. For a doorway, it will be enough to outline and make an exact rectangular cutout. For laying parquet boards near pipes, everything is somewhat more complicated. It is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the board, and then drill holes 1 - 2 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes. Now strictly in the center of the holes we cut off part of the panel. We lay the panels in place, we start the cut piece behind the pipes and also put it in place. For additional fixation, apply glue to the joints of the cut off part. To give an aesthetic appearance around the pipes, we install special plugs of the same color as the parquet.

Adhesive installation method

The adhesive method of laying the parquet board creates a more monolithic structure, but the dismantling of such a floor is extremely difficult

In this laying method, the same sequence of actions is used as in the floating one. But there are a number of significant differences:

1. when laying on glue, waterproof plywood acts as a substrate. We carry out its laying in rows “in a row”, and we additionally fasten the plywood to the base with the help of pneumatic nails or self-tapping screws;
2. The glue is applied to the surface of the base and the parquet board with a notched trowel. We also fill the grooves at the end of the panels with glue. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

Of the disadvantages of this method of fastening, it should be noted increased labor costs and some complexity of the work. Also, if it becomes necessary to replace one or more parquet panels, you will have to face certain difficulties.

Laying with fasteners

The method using fasteners is used for laying on logs

All work is also carried out by analogy with the "floating" method of laying. The significant differences are as follows:

• this method is most often used for solid parquet boards and for multilayer boards with a thickness of 20 mm;
• laying with fasteners is used when a massive parquet board is laid directly on logs or a solid wooden base;
• insulation and waterproofing is carried out at the stage of installation of the lag;
• to fix the parquet board, it is necessary to drive a nail into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees or screw in a self-tapping screw.

Important! When laying on logs, it is necessary to ensure that the panel joints pass exactly in the middle of the log. Self-tapping screws or nails should be 2 to 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the board.

Regardless of how the parquet board will be laid, all work must be carried out carefully, adhering to the technology and recommendations of manufacturers. Only in this case, you can get a really reliable and beautiful flooring from parquet boards.

Creating flooring using parquet modules is becoming popular. Laying this material requires special skills, a new level of wood processing technology has brought parquet flooring to the leaders of the construction market. By adhering to the instructions, you can perform it on your own, skillfully handling a specific tool.

Required materials and tools

Before starting work on the installation of the popular floor, prepare the required tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• comfortable hammer;
• building corner 40 cm;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• block for fitting parquet;
• wedges for restriction;
• metal bracket;
• wood saw;
• drill;
• angle cutter

Laying sequence

The parquet module is made as a multilayer product from several types of wood, placing them in layers. Material should be purchased from a manufacturer who practices the assembly and repair of such floor coverings. Since it is unprofitable for them to sell low-quality goods in advance, then problems will arise when completing the floor. There are a large number of sites on the Internet that offer step-by-step instructions for creating wooden flooring on your own.

Floor preparation

Scheme of laying parquet floor

Before laying a new floor covering, the main floor is put in order. You can mount parquet on an old wooden floor or concrete screed. In the case of a wooden coating, check for the possibility of failures, damage and other things. In case of inconsistencies, it is required to apply putty, and then putty.

In case of extensive damage, the old flooring should be disposed of. The wooden floor that has become unusable is carefully dismantled, cleaning the surface of the remaining debris and chips. If the surface is a concrete screed, before proceeding with further activities, you need to carefully sweep.

When the draft floor is ready, work begins on the installation of wooden modules.

Soundproofing flooring

Before starting work on joining parquet, you need to:

1. Check the horizontal level of the rough floor with a building level.
2. Install soundproofing.

Underlayment must be laid to separate the underside of the wood from the concrete floor. This material has multi-purpose functionality:

• smoothes out defects and irregularities of the rough screed;
• protects parquet from moisture;
• maintains the thermal insulation of the room;
• cushions while walking.

With temperature fluctuations in the room during the seasons of the year, some deformation of wooden products and the lower floor occurs, but the materials expand differently, so the substrate is a kind of barrier between them.

As insulation use:

1. cork sheets;
2. cardboard with the addition of felt;
3. crushed extruded polystyrene foam.

These materials additionally perform the role of sound insulation. To enhance adhesion, glue is well suited, which must be applied to the subfloor and rolled.

Remember! Excess adhesive causes the backing to bulge and prevent further work.

Before starting laying work, it is necessary to measure the floor with a tape measure. This is necessary to calculate the number of parquet boards. After the preparatory measures, do-it-yourself laying of the parquet board begins.

Laying process

During the laying of parquet, it turns out beautifully if they are oriented in opposite directions, but more often they are oriented along the long side of the wall. A design technique has been developed that visually expands or lengthens the room: a certain direction of the wooden module. With proper planning, the parquet is oriented in relation to the light. The diagonal arrangement is beautiful, but there is a lot of waste.

We apply a thin layer of glue - 0.5 cm with a notched trowel. The parquet must be mounted along the long wall of the room, the first plank of the parquet is placed in the corner, using retaining wedges 6-8 mm thick. These gaps provide compensation for parquet expansion during the warm season. Lay the parquets end-to-end along the wall, cut the last one to the desired size, leaving a gap.

The next row starts from the extreme module of the second row. In the case of assembling modules according to the drawing, parquet trimming will be required. The latest types of parquet are equipped with locking joints, so they put a new board to an already laid one at an angle of no more than 20 degrees, pressing forward and down. To increase the dynamics, use a rubber mallet. It is required to obtain a reliable connection of the locks of parquet fragments. Each row at the junction with the wall is fixed with a wedge.

When the flooring is finished, you can carefully remove the wedges along the walls and remove any excess insulation sticking up above the floor between the wood and the wall.

This installation method is called glueless. The adhesive method is also common, which is based on applying the adhesive mixture to the subfloor. Such a method:

• used when working on a large floor area;
• requires serious attitude and attention;
• accuracy of the work.

If you need to replace damaged parquet in the future, you will have to tinker and change not one, but 2-3 adjacent modules. When laying parquet fragments, unexpected obstacles such as fragments of the heating system or wall ledges come across. You can cut out sections of parquet boards using an electric jigsaw with a blade for woodworking.

In order not to spoil its appearance during the operation of the wooden coating, soft material is glued to the legs of the furniture.

Installation of skirting boards

Installation of skirting boards is the last step in creating a floor covering, when the do-it-yourself laying of a parquet board is completed. Fragments of the plinth should be fixed with special parts - kleimers. First you need to carefully remove the protruding parts of the substrate and sound insulation. The installation step of the kleimers using self-tapping screws is 45-50 cm, but it is correct to leave segments 20 cm long from the corner.

If the wooden board was attached using the glue method, before installing the skirting boards, you need to wait 24 hours for the glue to dry completely.

There are two options for attaching the plinth: to the floor or to the wall - the choice of installation depends on the quality of the material and the type of subfloor.

Conclusion

The most expensive and durable parquet products can be irreparably damaged by improper and illiterate installation. Payment for the installation of parquet modules by a professional team will be expensive, doing the work yourself will save the family budget. Installing a parquet board on your own is not difficult, you need to carefully study the step-by-step instructions and follow it. In every work there are some specific subtleties and nuances.

To increase the service life of wooden parquet flooring, there are general rules for caring for such a floor.

The parquet board has become a replacement for the well-known parquet. Much cheaper and easier to install. However, the latter is not entirely true. Yes, installation of a parquet board is easier, but this does not mean that installation will not take time and effort. You can also screw up here, which will lead to spoiled material. The right technology for laying parquet boards is the key to high-quality flooring. We will analyze how to properly lay the material in the article.

Before buying a material, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages. What are the advantages of parquet boards? The board length reaches two meters, there is no need to lay small separate planks. Previously, planks were made on the basis of two layers, but now manufacturers have begun to produce a three-layer material, so it is much stronger and tougher.

All three layers are made on the basis of natural wood, which means that the material has all the advantages of wood. Absolutely eco-friendly and safe, suitable for installation in the nursery.

Planks are attached to each other in a locking way, like a laminate. If you compare these two materials, you can find flaws here and there. More durable and wear-resistant all the same laminate. But only the class starting with marking 3. If you plan to buy a class with marking 2, then there is no difference.

Decorative properties of a parquet remain always on top. The beautiful appearance of the wooden coating will delight you for a long time. Over time, the material will not lose its external data, if properly cared for.
However, when decorating an interior, a parquet board will not suit any style. Wooden floors rarely fit into modern stylistic trends, they are more suitable for classic ones.

It has a parquet board and cons. One of the biggest drawbacks is the fear of temperature changes. Like any material made of natural wood, the plank reacts to changes in air temperature: in summer the board shrinks, and in winter, on the contrary, it swells.
There may be gaps that need to be removed. The board will not withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is not recommended to put heavy furniture on it, so as not to damage the material. At the same time, the board is afraid of cleaning with chemicals and moisture.
Of course, if you have the funds to buy a particularly durable material coated with various kinds of protection compounds, then the board is quite suitable, but if your budget is limited and you do not want to spend either time or money on surface care, it is better to abandon the board in benefit of laminate.
Boards are divided into three types according to their type: select, nature and rustic. Select is suitable for those who like perfectly even and smooth surfaces. You will not find any defects on the board. At the same time, the texture of the board is monophonic.

Natur board is distinguished by a wide choice of colors. If a standard wooden pattern does not fit your interior, then you can choose this type. But you can meet knots on it. Rustic is suitable for a certain interior. This type is designed for a specific design because the board will be uneven with knots and cracks. It is more suitable for decorating your own rustic-style home than for an apartment.
There are two ways to install a parquet board: floating and adhesive. The latter is rarely used. This option is possible only if you install the board directly on the concrete pavement. This will significantly reduce the life of the material.

Boards are also laid on glue in rooms with high humidity. Thus, the joints are completely sealed and water will not penetrate under the material. But laying the board in the kitchen is a dubious undertaking.

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying

The installation of a parquet board is not much, but still different from the installation of materials of this type. It has its own characteristics, which cannot be neglected. Therefore, do not use "general" installation guides, but always refer to the installation instructions for a specific material.

Purchase of material

The choice of parquet boards is not limited to color and texture. It is also important to choose the type of wood. The modern market has more than fifty different options. At the same time, the quality will also differ depending on the type of tree. Buy material from trusted sellers. It is easier to order through companies that themselves establish they have no marriage.

When choosing a color, give preference to light tones. On such a coating, scratches and other defects will not be visible. If you still want a dark board, then choose a matte finish. Gloss, of course, looks expensive and luxurious, but the slightest flaws will be visible on the surface. And over time, these are formed in any case.
If you are going to install a "warm floor" system under the board, then this is quite possible. But you can not use varieties of wood that absorb moisture. You perform the installation of the system entirely at your own peril and risk. Check the board for cracks at the joints. Defects on the surface are left on purpose, but no deviations along the edge of the board are allowed. Check everything thoroughly.

Foundation preparation

Preparing the floor for a parquet board is one of the most important steps. The appearance of the cladding depends on how carefully you carry out the preparation work. Often the cause of deformation of the floor covering is precisely the wrong preparation of the base.
First of all, the base must be level. Small deviations are allowed, not exceeding 2 mm per linear meter. If the irregularities are visible to the naked eye, then you will have to fill in the screed.
If it is already there, then check its quality.

Small holes and cracks can be repaired with putty, but in case of large damage, the old material must be removed and new material filled in.

After leveling, be sure to check the moisture content of the concrete base. This can be done using a special device or the old-fashioned way: a film is glued to the adhesive tape and left for a day. If there is no condensation, then the humidity level is normal.
If you are laying a new floor on a wooden base, then you need to check the old floor for cracks and holes. Small cracks can be covered with putty, and in large cracks a plank is placed according to the size of the hole and sealed with the same putty. Some advise using a sealant, but it can crack later.

Substrate laying

The problem with many floor coverings is the need to lay the underlay. The cost of the material can reach the price of the facing coating. At the same time, it is not profitable to use cheap analogues, because the substrate must withstand the same service life as the cladding. Before laying the substrate, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing. In its quality, an ordinary film is suitable. The sheets are overlapped by 15 cm and go to the wall, and they are fastened together with adhesive tape.

The substrate acts as an additional guarantor of the protection of the facing material. It can take on itself into the water if it hits the material, hides small irregularities in the base. And most importantly, the substrate prevents the bar from rubbing against the base, which increases its service life.

Alternatively, you can use polystyrene foam from inexpensive options. The highest quality material is cork sheets, but their cost is high. The substrate is laid end-to-end, no overlaps. Covers the entire perimeter of the floor. For fixing to the base, double-sided tape is suitable, which is glued at the junction of two sheets. The substrate does not fit under the installation on the adhesive.

Floor covering installation

floating method

The answer to the question of how to lay a parquet board depends on the chosen installation method. Floating installation starts from the opposite corner from the door. In this case, the planks are laid along a long wall. Before work, install wedges with a gap of 1 cm. This is necessary so that the board has a move if it dries out. The gaps are then closed with skirting boards.

The first bar is installed with the back to the wall. The second is attached to the lock to the pen. At the same time, you will hear a characteristic click - it means that the lock has clicked into place. This is how the whole row fits. The last plank usually needs trimming.

The next row is connected to the previous one. At the same time, it also needs to be docked with the already installed bar of the new row. Different manufacturers make different mechanisms. Somewhere you must first insert the planks of the previous row into the groove, and somewhere you need to dock with the board in the row. Read the instructions carefully.
Thus, the entire floor is filled. After the boards are installed, the wedges are pulled out. If you laid the film, then it is cut off and skirting boards are placed.

glue method

Installation is carried out on a special glue for parquet boards. In this case, the substrate is not installed. The adhesive is applied to the base with a notched trowel. Spread it evenly over the floor area. After that, the planks are simply laid on the glue, and the excess is rubbed off. On such a floor can not be walked until the composition is completely dry.

Sometimes a parquet board is laid on logs. The technology is completely identical to laying a conventional wooden floor. But this option is only suitable for boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

But since the parquet board is not the most durable material, this method is rarely used.

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