Fertilizing plants with clay is used when planting in new soil. For this, blue, gray, white and yellow clay is most often used. The best clays are blue and gray.
The clay should be taken from the upper layers after it has been exposed to the open air for several months. Dried balls with a diameter of 1 - 1.5 cm should be placed under the roots of the plants, sprinkling with soil on top. Clay placed under the roots provides plants with a sufficient amount of nutrients, slightly alkalizes the soil, preventing rapid acidification. But it should be noted that naturally silted soil is most favorable for plant development and contains all the necessary substances.
Natural white clay is used to feed many aquarium plants, it is especially effective for the cultivation of Echinodorus and most long-stemmed plants.
Clay is introduced into the soil of the aquarium directly during planting or is introduced into the area of the root system of an already rooted plant using tweezers (Fig. 1 - incorrect, Fig. 2 - correct). Depending on the size of the bush and the condition of the root system, 1-5 balls of clay are required. Clay can be introduced into the soil under the roots of both an already rooted plant (Fig. 3, 5, 7), and under a plant whose roots are on the surface of the soil (Fig. 4, 6, 8). It is completely harmless to fish.
Potting soil can be purchased at the store, but many growers prefer to prepare their own potting soil for their green pets.
The fact is that universal ready-made soils are not suitable for all plants, which should be taken into account. If indoor plants such as geranium and chlorophytum can grow in the same soil mixture, then a special soil is needed for anthurium. Although in modern times in the store you can buy soil for any type of plants.
The composition of universal soils includes peat, which has bactericidal properties, containing amino acids and humic acids necessary for the growth and normal development of plants. Peat is light (in the upper layers, slightly decomposed, well absorbing moisture) and heavy (in the lower layers, with a high humus content). The finished peat land consists of peat and lime.
Sod land consists of turf, quicklime, cow dung, superphosphate. To obtain it, the top layer of the soil is removed (from meadows, pastures), the layers are placed in a heap, sprinkled with manure and left to rot for a year.
Leaf land consists of fallen and rotten (from 2-3 years) leaves. However, willow and oak leaves contain tannins, so soil based on such leaves is not suitable for growing indoor plants.
Humus earth obtained from greenhouse manure, which has already been used for growing plants. This land is very nutritious.
Compost soil obtained from rotted plant and food residues, which are mixed with garden soil.
Coniferous land consists of rotted needles of coniferous trees, for example, pine, spruce, larch. Such soil is part of the soil mixture for growing azaleas, camellias and other plants that prefer to grow in acidic soil.
Other components that are used to form the soil mixture include river sand, clay, fern roots, sphagnum moss, crushed tree bark, charcoal. These components are used to improve the composition of the soil, for loosening and preventing soil acidification. For example, sphagnum moss and charcoal have aseptic properties.
Fine expanded clay gravel, perlite, marble screening, hydrogel, seramis are used as fillers. Fillers help to loosen the soil, as well as retain moisture.
Classification of finished soils
- Light- consists of leaf and sod land, crushed foam, greenhouse soil, sand. This substrate is suitable for growing plants with a small root system, such as cyclamen, begonias.
- Average- consists of leaf and sod land, humus. Suitable for growing ficuses, citrus fruits.
- Heavy- consists of sod land, humus, coarse sand. Suitable for growing palms, clivia, dracaena, krinum.
On the basis of high-moor peat (decomposed sphagnum moss that grows in raised bogs) - it contains a minimum amount of minerals, differs in air permeability, good water absorption and moisture retention. This substrate is often used as a temporary substrate for the transport of plants, as well as for the sale of potted plants.
On the basis of low-lying peat (extracted from low-lying swamps, lakes and rivers) - it is distinguished by the presence of a large amount of mineral substances, it retains moisture well. However, it quickly cakes, dries out for a long time, as a result, the roots of plants often rot. Soil based on lowland peat is used as a component of a soil mixture prepared independently, but not as an independent substrate.
Based on vermicompost (a product of manure processing by earthworms) - rich in organic matter and living organisms. Such soil is used as a component of a soil mixture for its enrichment. Vermicompost is an alternative to humus.
Special primer for indoor flowers
- For orchids- a mixture of peat, charcoal, crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss. For epiphytes, they use not soil, but pieces of pine bark or snags wrapped in sphagnum moss.
- For azalea- high moor peat, pine needles, sand. The soil is moderately acidic and loose, with a low content of nutrients.
- For palm trees- soil mixture from high-moor peat, leaf and sod land, sand. The soil is nutritious, with a neutral reaction.
- For cactus- sand, leafy earth or high moor peat, depending on the group of cacti (there are forest and desert).
- For violets- high moor peat, sand, coniferous soil, charcoal, sphagnum moss.
- For ferns- peat, sand, humus.
But don't assume that the ready-to-use mixtures for the plants mentioned above are ideal. There are many species of the same genus, growing in nature in different conditions. Therefore, when purchasing ready-made soil, it must be supplemented with components necessary for a particular type of plant.
Some specialized soils are suitable for growing other types of plants. Typically, this information is indicated on the packaging.
What to look for when choosing a ready-made soil
Priming:
- must allow air to pass through;
- must be nutritious;
- should not retain moisture for a long time;
- should not contain pests and pathogens;
- the acidity of the soil should correspond to the level that is needed for a particular type of plant.
We usually use purchased flower mixes, which already have all the necessary ingredients. However, finding the perfect balance of moisture content and breathability is quite difficult, even in ready-made substrates. Therefore, it is best to compose your own recipe! How to make an earthen mixture at home? Our article will help you choose the components, calculate the proportions and prepare the nutritious soil for flowers.
Base for earthen mixture
Soil is the environment in which a plant exists naturally. Its composition and properties can change over time, depending on many factors. Therefore, some plots are empty, while others are actively growing and bearing fruit. At home, we ourselves can make up the mixture of components we need, in which this or that plant will be comfortable. What is important to consider when doing this?
The soil of indoor plants, like the soil in the garden, has certain physical properties, the main of which are: air permeability, moisture capacity and density. They are determined by the mineralogical composition and organic matter content. You can adjust these indicators yourself! Transplantation and reproduction of indoor flowers: tips and rules.
Three components are taken as the basis of an earthen mixture for most indoor plants: earth, peat and sand. Peat performs the function of maintaining a given level of acidity, and sand allows you to loosen the soil for flowers, reducing its density. Read more at the link below. Additional components can be used. So vermiculite and agroperlite normalize soil aeration, dolomite flour lowers the acidity of the soil, tree bark acts as a baking powder and protects against overheating, sapropel and vermicompost saturate the mixture with microelements.
This information will be useful to you:
All components of ready-made substrates for indoor plants are described in this article. Types of peat, sand, agroperlite, vermiculite, biohumus, sapropel, bark, sphagnum, expanded clay, dolomite flour, charcoal, humic acids - how they affect the properties of the soil and when they are used.
What about the third component, earth? Where can I get it, and is garden soil suitable for flowers?
Country land
It is used exclusively as a component, but not in its pure form! After all, no one can vouch for the properties and composition of the soil on the site. Do not use in indoor floriculture land treated with herbicides containing "live" manure mixed with lime. It is desirable that nothing grows in this place for at least a year, in order to avoid the presence of residues of pesticides and fertilizers. It is not recommended to use heavy clayey soils, unless in minimal proportions. The harvested land must be cleared of weeds and be sure to check for insects. To minimize the risks, you can sterilize it, how to do it, read on.
Leaf land
This is the soil obtained as a result of the rotting of fallen leaves and tree species. The foliage is harvested in garden conditions, collecting in heaps up to one and a half meters and shoveling during the season. For the winter, the pile is covered, and after two years, an earthy mixture saturated with organic matter is obtained. If you don't have a summer cottage, or time to "cook" leaf humus, go to the forest. After all, there is a soil rich in organic matter under every tree. Keep in mind, however, that not all deciduous waste is beneficial! For these purposes, hazel, linden, maple, acacia are more suitable, but the foliage of oak and chestnut contains too many tannins that can harm home plants.
Sod land
There is such a thing as turf land, what it is? These are rotted particles of turf, they are harvested in the spring, collecting land in pastures. The top layer of turf up to 10 cm thick is removed with a shovel and laid in a shady place with "bricks" on top of each other, with grass against the grass, shovel once a summer, and covered for the winter. After a year or two, the sod substrate will be ready for use. By the way, the most appreciated is the soil on which perennial fodder crops, clover, legumes and cereals grow, the soil in such places is enriched with nitrogen.
Coniferous land
Possesses more high acidity, it is harvested in spruce and pine forests. If you collect the top layer of soil together with branches and needles, you can make a coniferous mixture, leaving it to “mature” during the season, sometimes shoveling it, and covering it for the winter. The next year, the rotted residues of the needles will be ready for use. Do the same with the soil collected in places where heather grows. Heather land is suitable for growing orchids, ferns, azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons.
Compost
It is a natural fertilizer for flowers. Organics: types and applications. Compost soil is obtained from the decomposition of organic waste. These include cut grass, faded plants, food organic waste (shells, skins, remnants of vegetables and fruits), charcoal, clean ash, etc. Many gardeners have a compost pit in which they store this kind of waste. They are periodically moistened with water and shoveled, closed for the winter, and as a result, they receive valuable fertilizer. Compost pit made of "turf bricks".
Humus earth
This is the result of decomposition of manure, usually horse manure. Fresh manure is rarely used, even in garden plots. At home, humus for flowers will become a useful additive, it is used in dosage, adding to the finished soil mixture in small quantities.
Light, medium and heavy earth mixes
The soil of indoor plants must meet specific requirements, which is why it is not advisable to plant all flowers in a "universal substrate". Some need a looser mixture, others develop better in nutrient soil. Detailed information on each plant is on our website: find your flower using the search bar (on the side), or the page "Alphabetical reference book" (it contains not only official, but also folk names of plants).
Below the site flowery-blog.ru gives the approximate proportions of earth mixtures of heavy, medium and light.
- Light mix:(peat) -2 (garden land) -1 (leaf, or sod land) -0.5 (sand) -2 (additional components) -agroperlite, vermiculite, charcoal, fine expanded clay.
Light earthen mixtures will be appropriate for desert cacti, succulents with thick leaves (echeveria, aloe, bastard, etc.). It is also advisable to plant young cuttings in light soil, which have a still fragile root system, increasing the saturation of the soil as it grows.
- Medium mix:(peat) -2 (garden soil) -1.5 (leaf or sod land) -1 (compost, or humus) -0.5 (sand) -1.5 (additional components) -vermiculite, charcoal.
Medium earthen mixtures are the most versatile; they are suitable for growing ornamental deciduous species, desert palms, some succulents and flowering plants. When in doubt about the right proportions for your plant, use a medium density flower primer.
- Heavy mixture:(peat) -3 (garden soil) -2 (leaf or sod land) -1.5 (sand) -1 (compost, or humus) -1 (additional components) -bark of trees, pine needles, sphagnum moss, woody coal, vermicompost (instead of compost).
Heavy earthy mixes are suitable for tropical species of palms, lianas, ferns, azaleas, begonias, fuchsias, and tropical forest cacti. Usually, large tub plants, plants with a weighty root system, thick roots are planted in denser soil.
* If instead of pure peat you use a ready-made peat mixture, check the presence of trace elements in it. Usually, ready-made mixtures already contain fertilizers, so the use of additional fertilizing (compost, humus, humus) is not required.
Disinfection of soil
DIY flower primer often requires disinfection. Purchased ingredients do not need to be processed, while soil brought from the garden or from the forest may contain microorganisms, bacteria, or small insects. Subsequently, such "uninvited guests" can seriously harm the plant! This is especially true if you have large volumes of soil, because a small handful of soil can be sorted out manually. What is soil disinfection?
It is possible to process the garden soil for bacteria and fungus with the help of the drug "Fitosporin", which is useful for plants, it destroys pathogenic microflora, and the beneficial microorganisms contained in it create a favorable environment for plants. Among similar biological products include "Gamair" and "Alarin".
Attention!
You should not process the land brought from the site with insecticides and acaricides, for flowers such soil will not be the most comfortable environment.
Thermal treatments include steaming in the oven and freezing on the balcony. If you keep the soil on the balcony all winter, it will freeze and be ready for use in the spring. However, in this case, there is a great risk that weed seeds will remain in it, and some pests may also "overwinter".
The second method is probably more reliable, but it also has its drawbacks. The substrate must be laid out on a baking sheet, moistened with a sprayer and kept in the oven at a minimum temperature of 120 degrees for about an hour, stirring regularly. When heated, all bacteria and microorganisms, both harmful and beneficial, are destroyed, so that the earth loses some of its benefits.
Now you also know how to prepare a nutritious soil for flowers. Make proportions based on the requirements of the plants, and they will reward you with growth and flowering.
If you still have questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.
The soil for indoor flowers needs special so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, does not turn into a clay lump. We will talk about this today in continuation of our topic about home growing of plants. 
Before heading to the garden center for shopping, it is worth brushing up on your knowledge of home flowers:
- How to correctly assess the conditions in the room where you plan to put flower pots;
- How to choose healthy plants;
- What house flowers are ideal for your conditions.
- Why not replanting a newly acquired plant.
- Choosing plant pots.
But back to "our rams" - which soil for indoor plants is best.
First, I will say which soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or from a vegetable garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the house.
For planting indoor plants, you need a special composition. You can cook them yourself or buy ready-made in the store.
It is worth talking in more detail about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates), usually used for growing home flowers.
Why ready-to-use potting mixes are not suitable for indoor plants
Ready-made substrates that are on sale under the proud name "Soil Mix" actually have nothing to do with soil. They consist mainly of red (high-moor) or black (low-lying) peat with the addition of mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on which plants they are intended for.
What the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, heading this revelation - "Composition of the mixture."
Have you ever read it?
Most of the failures in growing home flowers are due to the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.
There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. You don't need to look for different types of soil, you don't need to harvest them for future use and store them in the house, taking up the space you need for life. Peat-based formulations are lightweight, absorb water well. On the market you can find such a mishmash for all types of plants. And this would be a solution to the problem for most amateurs, if not for one thing ...
But the peat composition is unstable, it dries quickly. All peat platters must be kept constantly moist - when dry, they hardly absorb moisture. But most of your green pets require the land to dry out between waterings. And some of them do not tolerate excess moisture at all.
That is why it is easy to flood a flower in such a soil substrate.
In peat formulations, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen formulations, but when watering it is easily washed out. Therefore, within a few weeks after transplanting, you will have to feed the plant. Did you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to "overfeed" your pet, or, conversely, make him "starve"!
Using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.
The only exceptions are compositions with the addition of vermicompost. Humus (black soil) is a soil rich in organic matter. Such formulations are less common and usually more expensive than peat-based substrates.
We conclude:
The soil for indoor flowers must be prepared by hand.
Do not be alarmed, it is not difficult at all.
A little background on the different soil types will help you figure it out.
Characteristics of garden lands
It is rather porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take a good sod (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it up and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be sod land.
Deciduous (leaf)
It is a light, loose and fairly nutritious soil that forms from the annual rotting of foliage and branches in a grove, in a forest or in a planting. It is easiest to find leafy soil in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rotted. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and pick up the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, it is possible with the remnants of last year's well-rotted foliage.
Humus
It is obtained from rotted manure. It is light, loose and very nutrient-rich. It is quite easy to find humus soil in the village. In the city, you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for grafting.
It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.
The best is coarse river or lake sand.
Preparing the ground for indoor flowers at home
Recipe one:
This mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick coarse roots: dracaena, monster, large trees.
Second recipe:
This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with medium-sized roots: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.
Third recipe:
This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with fine, delicate roots and all herbaceous species.
Fourth recipe - universal soil for indoor plants:
Useful if you could not find turf and humus soil.
In the literature for florists, there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with these additives.
But the truth is that plants are very malleable and will easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. So don't make it hard for yourself to look for rare soil additives. The recipes above will work for almost all of your green pets.
So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants
To avoid difficulties in caring for indoor plants, soil for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands according to one of the above recipes.
In modern flower shops, earthen substrates are presented in a large assortment. It is not difficult to select ready-made soil for plants of any type. During the promotions, soil for indoor plants can be purchased at an attractive price. But in order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is better to prepare the earth for it yourself.
When choosing a soil mixture, its reaction (Ph) should be taken into account. Most indoor and garden plants prefer neutral or slightly alkaline soils. Some representatives of the plant world need an alkaline or acidic soil. For chrysanthemum, pelargonium, begonia, fern, cyclamen, a slightly acidic earthy mixture is suitable. Acidic soil must be purchased for hydrangeas, camellias, azaleas. Lily, cloves, cineraria, asparagus will thrive on alkaline soil.
Acidic soils include peat, clay-sod and loam. If you take sod land on black soil, it will be slightly alkaline or neutral.
Peat
Peat is a part of almost all soil substrates for flowers. It can be low-lying, riding and transitional. Low-lying peat has a slightly acidic environment, high-moor peat is acidic. High peat is obtained from the decomposition of sphagnum moss growing in high bogs. It has few minerals and is not very fertile. This type of peat is used to prepare transport soil. Plants are transported in it. Among its main advantages are good air permeability, hygroscopicity, lightness. However, it has a high moisture retention capacity. When the moor peat is completely dry, it will be very difficult to water it.
Low-lying peat is formed in low-lying bogs, swampy areas of rivers and lakes. It contains more minerals and is heavier. It cannot be used in its pure form, it is wet, leads to decay of the roots. It is used as a component of potting mix.
Thanks to peat, you can improve the quality of the soil mixture, making it light and loose. Peat soil is used for germinating seeds and rooting cuttings.
Factory-packaged ready-made peat can also be used for potted plants. For earthen substrates, soft, free-flowing peat with a homogeneous structure is suitable.
Sod land
Any soil substrate is not complete without sod land. It is most suitable for palm trees. You can prepare it yourself. The meadow sod land, on which legumes and cereals are grown, has an ideal composition. To prepare the potting mix, it is better to take the soil from the top layer. The soil is suitable, which is located at the roots and under them. Such soil is enriched with nitrogen, which helps plants to develop fully. This land can be found in an ordinary pasture, in a forest, near piles of mole. Loam is the soddy land of the middle belt. Clay in the soil helps to retain moisture and retain nutrients. This property helps to reduce the amount of feeding. As the indoor plant grows, the amount of sod land is increased.
Sod land will help prevent the soil from drying out quickly. It is especially useful to add such soil to plant pots, which are taken out to the balcony in summer.
Deciduous land
There is nothing difficult in harvesting this type of land. The best quality deciduous land can be taken from under hazel, maple, linden. Oak and willow soil is not suitable for many indoor plants, as it contains a lot of tannins. In the old forest, you can take land from any layer of the earth. In young growth, preference should be given to the top fertile soil layer. Deciduous soil with the addition of sand is suitable for rooting cuttings and growing seeds.
Humus earth
In most cases, the greenhouse land is used, which was obtained after cleaning the greenhouses. It has a very valuable composition. It is a good plant fertilizer. It is not easy to find it, so you can replace it with bio-humus soil, which is sold in flower shops. The main thing is to buy a quality product, not a fake. Vermicompost is manure processed by earthworms. It contains useful live microorganisms, it contains a large amount of organic matter, therefore it is used to enrich the soil mixture.
Compost soil
Such soil can be taken from the compost pit, which is in every summer cottage. This includes manure, garbage, rotted waste.
Coniferous land
This type of land is suitable for growing azaleas, orchids, begonias, violets and gloxinias. It contains rotted needles. This land is considered poor, loose, sour. Experienced flower growers choose only clean coniferous soil from under the trees for their indoor plants. Collecting such soil, remove branches and cones from it. It is difficult to find high-quality coniferous soil, since there is a lot of sand in the soil under the plants.
Charcoal
This potting potting ingredient can be purchased at the store. It is found in substrates for bromeliads and orchids. If the plant's roots rot, add charcoal to the pot. They can also treat wounds, cuts in the roots, stems and leaves of the plant.
Sand
Sand is an important ingredient for preparing soil substrates. This component should be taken very seriously. Do not add red building sand to the soil. It is unsuitable for plants as it contains harmful iron compounds. Preference should be given to river sand. It is used without prior preparation. Sea sand is washed well before use to remove salt.
After the earthen mixture is ready, it should be steamed to remove harmful insects and weed seeds. Heat treatment will help get rid of root nematodes, earthworms, millipedes. For the procedure, you will need a large saucepan and sand. Clean raw sand is placed on the bottom of the pan, and other components of the earthen mixture are placed on top. The container is put on fire and heated. Evaporating, the water will warm up the soil.
Heat treatment has its drawbacks. Due to high temperatures, beneficial soil microorganisms die, which help to assimilate organic fertilizers. To avoid problems, the number of microorganisms is maintained with special preparations containing soil microflora.
Secrets of an ideal soil - Video
It should be noted right away that it is wrong to call the potted substrate soil. Soil is a single living organism, consisting of interconnected layers (horizons) and formed on a certain parent rock, depending on the climate, relief and activity of soil organisms over a long period of time. This is how the soil becomes fertile and able to recreate itself. As soon as we take a piece of soil and carry it home, it immediately turns into a kind of more or less fertile substrate. Therefore, we will call the substance in the pot a soil or substrate. Its main purpose is to support the plant and conduct water and nutrients to the roots, and give access to air. Providing the plant with nutrition is not the primary function of the soils, and our task is to timely and correctly introduce nutrients into the substrate. Soils can be made not only from natural materials taken from nature, but also from artificial ones, for example, hydrogel, perlite or expanded clay - with a hydroponic growing method.
When choosing a soil for a specific plant, it is necessary to understand what kind of soil it needs in terms of composition and acidity. To do this, it is useful to read special literature, it is advisable to get acquainted with the biology and growing conditions of a favorite plant.
Despite the wide variety of soils on store shelves, almost all of them are divided into several groups. During the production process, substances that regulate acidity, fertilizers (usually long-acting) are added to the base, sometimes sand, expanded clay crumbs, perlite and other components are added.
High moor peat soils... They are, perhaps, the majority. High peat is the result of the decomposition of sphagnum moss that grows in high bogs. It is poor in minerals, after extraction it quickly loses its fertility. On its basis, a transport soil has been prepared, in which the plants are transported, and which our nurseries also use. Its advantage is lightness, hygroscopicity, air permeability. The disadvantages include such a high ability to retain water that at a certain moisture content of the soil, the roots already cease to assimilate it; on the contrary, after it is completely dry, it is difficult to wet it. High peat-based soils serve as a substrate for almost all indoor flowers.
Lowland peat soils... Such peat is mined from low-lying bogs, wetlands of rivers and lakes. It is heavier, richer in minerals, which, however, are released slowly. In its pure form, it is better not to use it for transplanting indoor flowers, since it remains wet for a long time, has a fine structure and quickly cakes, making it difficult for air to reach the roots and causing them to rot. It can only be used as a component in the preparation of earth mixes.
Biohumus-based soils... Vermicompost is obtained by processing manure with certain lines of earthworms; it contains not only a high percentage of organic matter, but also useful living microorganisms. It is used in small quantities to enrich the earthen mixture; it can serve as a substitute for leaf or herbal humus.
Many manufacturers offer ready-made primers for different plant groups, however, you should check the recommendations for the composition of the soil for a particular plant type. Sometimes it is necessary to make adjustments, for this it is advisable to always have a few more components on hand to prepare the soil that is optimal in composition for a particular plant.
To do this, you may need:
- sand, which is desirable to take in unpolluted places along the river banks, but you can also buy it in flower shops. Sand should be sieved through a sieve to remove debris and large stones, and rinsed in water to remove dust and dirt. It serves as a good additional additive to ready-made soil for cacti and succulents, palms and other plants, prevents their caking.
- sphagnum moss it is sold in flower shops, its pH is about 4. It is added for the preparation of friable, light, breathable acidic substrates for uzambara violets and other representatives of the Gesneriaceae, for aroids, orchids, azaleas.
- pine bark, which can be bought at the store or collected from cut plants, has a pH of 4-4.5. Before using it, be sure to boil it for at least 30 minutes. It is added to soils for epiphytes, bromeliads, anthuriums, philodendrons and other plants that need a loose moist substrate. Serves as the only soil component for some orchids, including Phalaenopsis.
- coniferous land is collected under coniferous trees, contains fallen and partially rotted needles. Cones and branches trapped in it should be removed. It is a loose, poor, acidic soil with a pH of 4-5. Serves as an integral part for plants that prefer an acidic soil reaction and require increased looseness of the substrate, for example, for precious orchids.
- herbal or leafy humus formed by decay of leaves or grass, pH 5-6. Replaces rotted manure, which should not be used for indoor flowers. Serves as a component for earthen mixtures for plants in need of enhanced organic nutrition, such as ferns, etc. Vermicompost can serve as an adequate substitute for it.
- turf land formed by composting turf, but it can be collected in the forest from fresh mole heaps, where the ground is loose and practically free of debris and plant roots. In the middle lane, sod land is usually loam. A small amount of clay helps to structure the soil and retain moisture. Clay, due to its layered structure, retains ions on itself, does not allow nutrients to be quickly washed out, thereby reducing the amount of dressings. When transplanting, under young plants, add a little sod land, increasing its share as it grows. It is a good soil component for palms and other plants. It is advisable to add sod land to prevent the substrate from drying out quickly (during the day), especially when the plants are kept in summer on the balcony.
- charcoal sold in flower shops, is included in substrates for orchids, bromeliads and other plants, it should be added to fresh soil during transplantation in case of root rot. They are sprinkled with wounds and cuts on the roots, stems and leaves to prevent the development of rot.
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Guided by knowledge of the needs of plants and having ready-made commercial substrates and additional components at hand, you can prepare a land mixture for almost all indoor flowers. Sometimes they also use perlite, vermiculite, polystyrene, mineral wool, foam rubber.
Before use, the soil must be subjected to heat treatment, this will save you in the future from problems with root nematodes, earthworms, millipedes and other soil inhabitants. A simple way is to place the washed, wet sand in a layer of a few centimeters on the bottom of a large saucepan, and on top of it - the other components of the mixture. The pot is placed on the stove and heated. Water evaporating from the lower layer of sand in the form of steam heats up the rest of the soil. It should be steamed until the top layer is heated (a 10 l pan heats up in about 40-60 minutes).
But heat treatment leads to the inevitable death of beneficial soil microorganisms, and without their vital activity, plants cannot assimilate organic fertilizers. About a month after transplanting, when the roots are fully restored, you should begin to populate the soil with special microorganisms and constantly maintain their numbers. This will be helped by special preparations containing live microorganisms, for example, Baikal, Vozrozhdenie, Vostok EM-1, as well as organic fertilizers of the Ecoistyle brand containing soil microflora.
Specialized soil for indoor plants
Soil for cacti and succulents
The main requirements for this soil are permeability and nutrient poverty. Such soils contain a large amount of sand (about half), the rest can be high moor peat, leafy soil. For cacti, you can add a little more coarse sand to the purchased soil.
For a group of forest cacti, a universal high-moor peat-based soil is quite suitable.
Soil for orchids
Purchased soils for orchids usually contain several components - peat, sphagnum, coal, bark. Most of the confusion occurs with these substrates. There is no single soil for orchids, since among them there are groups of different habitats. For terrestrial orchids, purchased soil meets the requirements, but there are epiphytic orchids that live on trees, such soil is absolutely not suitable for them. For this group, it is necessary to use only bark, sometimes sphagnum moss and coal, but in no case should peat be added. It is easier to buy separately the bark of the desired fraction and, after boiling, plant an orchid in it.
Soil for orchids with the addition of high peat (1: 1) is optimal for anthuriums, philodendrons, monsters, bromeliads.
Soil for bromeliads
Such soils consist mainly of high-moor peat with the addition of leafy earth and sand. To make it more friable, you can add small pieces of bark, chopped sphagnum, coniferous soil, and coal, or prepare it with orchid soil, adding about half of the universal high-peat soil.
Soil for palm trees
All palms love loose and breathable soil, they are suitable substrates based on high peat with the addition of sand, leaf and sod land. As the palm grows, more and more sod land is added to the substrate.
Fern soil
Ferns naturally grow in very loose, moist, organic-rich soil. To draw up a mixture, you can add leaf humus or soil based on vermicompost (1: 1) to the soil for succulents (peat, sand and a low content of mineral fertilizers).
Soil for uzambara violets and other gesneria
An acidic high-moor peat-based substrate is optimal for this group of plants. It is advisable to add a little sand or perlite, coniferous earth, coal, for greater moisture capacity and looseness, it is good to add chopped sphagnum.
Gardenia soil
It is advisable to add approximately equal parts of leafy soil (or humus soil) and coniferous soil to the purchased substrate for gardenias, consisting of high-moor peat and sand. It is imperative to use only acidic mixtures.
To the choice of soil for plants, like no other, the expression fits: "To Caesar - Caesar's, and to the scribe - Pisarev's." Indeed, each flower needs its own special soil. Of course, there are group features, that is, plants can be combined according to growing conditions, and therefore according to soil requirements. This allows you to select a mixture not for one particular flower, but for a group. Otherwise, transplanting and planting flowers would turn into a titanic work - try to choose an individual mixture for each flower, verified as in a pharmacy.
Nevertheless, the health of the flower depends on what kind of soil is used. The flower receives all the necessary nutrients from the soil. The condition of the roots and the aerial part of the plant depends on the composition of the soil. And therefore, you need to know at least the basics of soil science and the main features of the selection of soil for flowers.
Sour or alkaline?
When do we face the issue of soil selection? When we transplant flowers or plant them in a permanent place. If you have such a question, first decide which of the main groups your pet belongs to. Plants are distributed in relation to the acidity of the soil. After all, the mixture can be either alkaline or acidic. But everything is also not so simple.
For example, some flowers require slightly acidic soil, others require medium acidity, and still others will look good if planted in acidic soil. So it is with alkaline soils. Serve one with slightly alkaline soil, and others with a pronounced alkaline reaction. There are also supporters of neutral soil, and some plants in it weaken.
Therefore, in order to pick up the soil, first find out what kind of reaction your flower needs.
Medium acidity or sour soil (pH = 4.5 - 5.5): azaleas, calla lilies, heather, anthurium, rhododendron, ferns, fuchsia.
Weakly acidic soil (pH = 5.5 - 6.5): asparagus, begonia, pelargonium, primroses, amaryllis, aralia, elastica ficus.
Neutral soil (pH = 6.5 - 7): roses, cineraria, saxifrage, levkoy or mattiola, chrysanthemums.
Alkaline soil (pH = 7): heliotrope, calceolaria.
At home, the acidity of the soil can be easily checked using a litmus test.
Components
The reaction of the soil depends on what components are included in the earth mixture. In nature, the composition of the soil depends on the environment: vegetation around, the presence of ground and surface waters and their composition, soil layers and much more. And for indoor flowers, we can pick up the components ourselves and get them either in nature or in the store (you can even buy something at the pharmacy).
So, the main components of the earthen mixture: sod, leaf, dung-humus and peat land. Also, important components include: river sand, tree bark (mainly conifers), moss (sphagnum).
What are each of the components?
This is a very nutritious land. It is the result of overheating of turf layers. They are piled up, grass to grass and layered with cow dung. This "pie" is left to peel for a year. After that, it is used for flowers that like acidic soils. Since the sod land has an acidity of pH 5-6. It is mixed with other types of earth, clay or sand.
Leaf land
It is a very light and loose earth. It allows air and water to pass well to the roots. But the nutritional value of leafy soil is average. Such land is obtained as a result of rotting leaves of deciduous trees. They are collected in a pile in the fall and left for 1-2 years. To make the process go faster, the layers of the heap are turned over and watered. It is also used to enhance the acid reaction.
Peat land
Peat land is particularly loose and light. It is it that is used to improve the overall composition of the soil. Peat mixes help ensure the mineral balance of the land mix. This land is obtained from peat, which has passed a decomposition period of at least a year. In floriculture, high-moor or dark transitional peat with an acidity of pH 3.5-5.5 is used. If there is peat in the mixture, you should see dark or reddish fibrous pieces. Such a soil is very good for seedlings, young flowers, especially all aroid ones. Philodendrons and ferns can generally live in clean peatlands. But in order for the soil to pass water well and there is no stagnation, it is better to mix peat with other types of land.
Coniferous land
This is another type of light acidic earth that flowering plants (for example, azaleas or anthuriums) love so much. It is a layer of litter of coniferous forests (usually pine). Coniferous soil is not taken from the very top, there are many needles that have not yet rotted. The bottom layer is used. This is a loose earth with an acidic pH of 4-5.
Humus or compost
This is a very nutrient-rich land, but very aggressive in its pure form. After adding pure humus to the soil, the thin roots of the plant can, as they say, burn out. So humus must be mixed with other types of soil. Compost is obtained after decomposition (within 2-3 years) of spent greenhouse manure. Its pH is 8.
Sand
An important component of many land mixtures is sand. Although they say that nothing grows on the sand, one cannot do without it in home floriculture. Only clean river sand should be used for flowers. In addition, it must be well rinsed and calcined in order to disinfect.
Bark
Pine bark is most often used in floriculture. It can be collected right in the forest. To disinfect and soften, the bark must be boiled in water for 30 minutes. After that, you can cut it. The bark gives the soil mixture lightness and good water permeability. It provides an acidic reaction of the mixture at pH 4-4.5. The bark is used to make the soil loose. This is especially required for ferns, aroids and other plants. But this component is especially important for growing orchids.
Moss (sphagnum)
This is the main component of the soil mixture for epiphytic plants. Moss gives the soil hygroscopicity, friability, lightness. For use in floriculture, it is dried and finely ground. It gives an acidic reaction pH 4. And also cover the aerial roots on the trunks of plants with moss so that they do not dry out. And it is good to cover the dug-in bends with moss.
Coconut fiber
Now in floriculture, crushed coconut fiber is used. It is a peat substitute. It allows air to pass into the soil well. Therefore, the fiber is added to the fern and orchid mix.
Fern roots
Fern roots are also used in substrates for orchids. They can make up 30% of the total volume of the mixture.
Perlite
It is silica that looks like light white or gray granules. They are small in size, so that perlite is sometimes even used instead of sand.
It is a mineral that has good water-absorbing properties. Moreover, it not only absorbs water well, but also gives it away well. So in dry times, it maintains soil moisture.
These are lumps of fired clay with a porous structure. Expanded clay is used for drainage, it weakly retains water, and does not allow its stagnation.
Zeolite granules
Zeolite is a crystalline mineral. It is used in floriculture as an adsorbent. It retains water and prevents the soil from sticking together.
This is another traditional antiseptic. Coal prevents the water in which the cuttings take root from rotting. Coal is added to the soil mixture so that the roots do not rot in case of waterlogging.
Density - lightness
If you still decide not to buy a ready-made substrate, but to make the mixture yourself, you need to know what density your flower needs. Palm trees, oleanders and ficuses grow in dense soil. Blooming: azaleas, anthurium, violets, begonias need light soil.
And still any young plants require a lighter mixture than adult specimens.
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Natural additive to soilsThe Cambrian blue clay, formed 500-600 million years ago, is a true witness to the growth of the vital forces of the biosphere. It retains the components of "living water". This is what determines the unique properties of Cambrian clay.
Peculiarities:
- increases productivity
- actively restores soil fertility
- accelerates plant growth and development
- improves the survival rate of seedlings
- starts the process of soil life
- stimulates the development of a strong root system
Application:
Natural purified Cambrian clay, in the form of a finely dispersed powder, is a valuable natural source of nutrition with minerals and other components in a form accessible to plants
Growing seedlings:Make a soil from blue clay and earth in a ratio of 1:10 and plant seedlings.
Landing in open ground:when sowing flowers, lawns or small-seeded crops, dig up the clay with soil to a depth of no more than 10 cm at the rate of 0.3 liters per 1 sq. m. With such digging, the clay will work for 3-5 years.
Planting, replanting trees and shrubs:when planting fruit and berry crops, mix the clay with the soil in a ratio of 1: 8-1: 10 and pour this mixture into the planting hole
For indoor plants: whenwhen planting and transplanting indoor plants, mix clay with soil in a ratio of 1:10
Used in organic farming.
Shelf-life Unlimited