A passenger car is not intended for transporting large cargo due to lack of space in its luggage compartment. If such transportation is necessary, the only way out of the situation is to use a light trailer. The modern market offers a large selection of such devices. But it is not necessary to spend quite a lot of money on purchasing a finished product, since you can make it yourself by selecting the necessary parts and tools.
Necessary materials and components for a homemade trailer
The trailer is manufactured according to the design drawing, which must meet the technical requirements provided for by GOST 37.001.220-80, valid in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. It describes standards, if not met, it will be impossible to register a homemade trailer for a passenger car with the state traffic inspectorate, and all the time and money will be wasted.
For the manufacture of a trailer weighing up to 750 kg, which does not require a driver's license with cat. BE will need the following equipment and components:
1. A square pipe or steel channel for making a frame and a coupling unit with a vehicle. Its optimal cross-section is 25x50 mm, and the pipes are 40x40 mm. The length is selected depending on the dimensions specified in the drawing.
2. Sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. and above, from which the sides of the body will be cut and assembled. The number of sheets is calculated based on the height and length of the sides.
3. A thick sheet of plywood, OSB board, plastic, polycarbonate or tin for making the bottom. Selected according to the size corresponding to its area.
4. Chassis. It is optimal to use the front axle removed from an old SZD (disabled) motorized wheelchair. It is also often installed, which is mounted on rubber bushings. In appearance it is similar to the Volga car, but lighter. The springs are attached to the bridge beam with stepladders, and fillets are placed under them.
5. The bridge is made of a ∅25 mm pipe, to the ends of which axle shafts are welded. The hubs rotate on them. The axle pipe, axle shaft, fillet and springs are assembled into a single unit, connected with M8 bolts.
6. A pair of wheels. They are borrowed from a motorized stroller, in which case they will add minimal weight to the structure, or a VAZ car. The VAZ 2108 rear beam hubs are suitable for their installation.
7. Suspension. The best option would be the spring-hydraulic units of the Ural motorcycle due to their low cost and reliability.
8. Towing device (towbar) for coupling with the machine.
9. Brakes.
10. Electrical equipment (turning and parking lights, brake lights and the drive with which they will be connected to the vehicle).
11. Awning or material for it (banner fabric, tarpaulin, etc.).
12. Fastening devices (corners, brackets, etc.).
13. Tools for working with metal (grinder, screwdriver, electric jigsaw, drill, hammer, tape measure).
14. Welding machine.
Manufacturing and assembly of a homemade trailer for a car
The assembly of a passenger trailer occurs in accordance with the drawing and consists of several stages:
- Frame assembly. This part of the product is a load-bearing part, and the durability of the trailer will depend on its strength. To do this, the pipe or profile is cut to size and welded together. The resulting rectangle is checked for accuracy and evenness of the assembly. Additionally, a stiffener is provided, since the rectangular frame is unstable under load.
- Connection point to the vehicle. When making it, you need to keep in mind that the shorter it is, the faster the trailer will respond to vehicle maneuvers. The optimal length of the connecting part will be 1.5-2 m. The same material is used for its manufacture as for the frame. Before starting welding, the correct placement of the parts to be joined is checked so that the coupling is in the middle. To ensure that the connecting part does not break under load, safety cables are mounted and welded at the bottom of the structure.
3. Coupling. Serves to attach the connecting part of the trailer to the vehicle. Can be mounted either with bolts or welding. The first method is less reliable, but can be easily dismantled. The welded assembly is durable, but may require a gas torch to remove it. For bolted connections, samples of the eighth strength class are selected.
4. Axle assembly. According to general rules, the axle is mounted at a distance of 40% from the rear side of the trailer, that is, it is slightly shifted from the center to the rear. Fastening occurs using a bolted connection, a frame is installed on it, and also connected with bolts.
5. Stabilizing jacks are a desirable but not required part of the structure. They ensure the trailer is level when driving. The best option for their placement is in the corners of the frame.
6. Flooring on the side walls. It is made of metal, plastic, wood or other material, depending on the cargo that is planned to be transported. It is bolted, after which the sides are mounted on the frame. The corners are reinforced with metal corners.
7. Finishing. They did it and the nodes are painted, after which the power connection route for electrical appliances is drawn. Headlights, lanterns and reflectors must be installed. Connection to a single network is made using the towbar socket. If necessary, a homemade trailer is equipped with a braking system.
Purpose and features of a passenger trailer for a car
Intended for transporting various types of cargo, tourist equipment and small tourist vessels, the length of which does not exceed 3.5 m. It consists of a frame, suspension, body, bridge, and is connected to the vehicle with a coupling device. Trailers for passenger cars, manufactured at the factory, do not require additional permits for registration, but are not always suitable for motorists in terms of characteristics or cost.
A homemade trailer for a passenger car is made according to the drawing and adhering to GOST when manufacturing and assembling it yourself. Registration of such a product is much more expensive, as it requires additional permits for operation. Moreover, all manufacturing costs, taking into account registration costs, will be lower than purchasing a new one. It should be taken into account that a homemade trailer is not inferior in quality to a factory trailer, since the manufacturing process is controlled by its owner.
How to make a trailer with your own hands will be discussed in this article, and several manufacturing options will be described, depending on the wheel suspension. Many drivers begin to think about making their own trailer when the need arises to transport some kind of cargo, for example, during the construction of a house or cottage. And when searching for a ready-made trailer, many do not find what they need on sale, and if they do, the trailer costs quite a bit.
With self-production, car owners have the opportunity not only to save a significant amount of money, but also to make a trailer to suit their needs and the dimensions of the cargo being transported, as well as the size of their car. In addition, some trailer parts can be made literally from iron trash that is lying around in the garage or at the dacha, or you can find something for pennies at a car disassembly (for example, the same suspension parts and wheels).
Below we will first describe the manufacture of a soft (suspension) version of a trailer, using a ready-made automobile beam, then a completely home-made version with a suspension will be described, and at the very end the simplest non-suspension version will be shown, which can be used locally (if cargo should be transported nearby and on a good road).
And of course, each driver will be able to choose the trailer manufacturing option that is more suitable for him in terms of operating conditions, as well as depending on the complexity of manufacturing. There is no point in listing what tools and materials you will need to make a trailer at the beginning, since everything will be described during the process.
Do-it-yourself trailer - an option with a ready-made car beam.
As the name already implies, you will need to find a rear suspension beam from some old car at a car disassembly site. Instead of a beam, you can use a suitable pipe (for example, 80 mm in diameter), this option will be easier, but in this case you will have to attach the wheel hubs to the pipe and attach the springs to the pipe. But with a beam everything is much simpler, since all the fastenings are already there.
However, some springs can also be secured to a regular pipe using hairpin clamps (as shown in the photo with a square adapter for the hub - below in the text). Using a pipe instead of a factory beam will lighten the weight of the suspension, since the beam is still significantly heavier than the pipe. What to choose - a pipe or a finished beam, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and what material is available.
The price of a beam can be a penny if you use a beam not from a foreign car, but from a Soviet car. And if the price of some ancient Moskvich can be in the range of $100 - $150, then it is not difficult to guess that the price of the rear beam from the same Moskvich will be very low.
The advantage of the Moskvich beam and its rear suspension is that the Moskvich suspension uses leaf springs rather than springs, which means that the load-carrying capacity of a trailer with springs will allow even cubes of a boiler for construction to be transported in the trailer. In addition, it will always be possible to add a couple of additional springs and thereby further increase the load-carrying capacity of the trailer, in case of emergency.
Well, another advantage of the leaf spring suspension is that you will not need to spend additional time making A-arms for the independent suspension, which is usually used with springs. However, this more complex option will be discussed below.
And so we purchased a beam (rear axle), preferably together with hubs and wheels, and of course with springs attached to the beam (see photo 1).
The axle shafts can be cut off, and the main pair of the gearbox can be removed from the housing along with the bearings - they will no longer be needed, and the weight of the beam will be significantly reduced. Well, the hole for the exit of the cross will need to be closed with a homemade plug. That's it - the base of the trailer is there.
Ear for attaching the spring to the trailer frame.
Next, you should make the ears shown in photo 2 below and in the photo on the left. “Ears” could also be cut off from the car body during disassembly (the factory ear is shown in the photo on the left), but if this was not possible, then they would have to be made from sheet metal 4 - 6 mm thick.
These "ears" will be used to attach the springs to the trailer frame once the frame is built.
It is best to make the frame from a profile pipe (a rectangular profile 40x60x4, but a square one 60x60x4 is also possible), since such a pipe is quite rigid, despite the small thickness of the walls, and is not too heavy, unlike a corner one. In addition, it is very convenient to weld the joints of the profile pipe at the corners of the frame.
Of course, before welding the frame, you should measure with a tape measure and mark the desired length with a marker, and then cut pipe blanks for the base, which has the shape of a rectangle.
The two longest pipes (long sides of the frame rectangle) will be the length that you want to get the final trailer body (2 meters is quite enough, but if longer, then it is preferable to make a two-axle trailer). Well, the width of the other two transverse pipes for the short sides of the frame rectangle, if possible, should not be wider than the dimensions of your car.
Having cut two long pipes and two shorter ones with a grinder, we grind chamfers from the edges of all pipes (for a reliable weld) and lay the pipes on a flat floor, laying out an equilateral rectangle of pipes.
We check all the corners of the rectangle using a square (so that the angle is strictly 90º), then we electrically weld the pipe joints, check the corners again with a square and finally weld the joints.
We use a conventional welding machine, with an electrode diameter equal to the thickness of the pipe wall, but it is much more convenient and faster to work with someone who has one, and the quality of the seam will be better (and without scale).
Having welded the rectangle, we then prepare (cut) two or three transverse pipes, which we weld in the middle of the rectangle (this will add rigidity and add an additional supporting surface to the floor of the trailer body, and the longer the trailer, the more transverse pipes should be welded).
After this, you can weld the frame to the suspension (through pre-made “ears”) and then from the front, weld an L-shaped jumper to the rectangular frame of the future car trailer, which is indicated by yellow arrows in photo 2 above), onto the top of which the ball joint of the towing device will subsequently be welded - tow bar. I recommend reading about how to make a tow bar for your car.
Well, now all that remains is to make a body with a hinged tailgate and attach it to the trailer frame. There are also several options for making the body. You can weld a frame from an angle (in the shape of a parallelogram) and then weld it to the frame (or bolt it).
Next, the frame from the corner (floor and sides) is sheathed with chipboard, plywood, textolite, metal sheet, etc., depending on the cargo being transported.
But you can use not a corner for the body frame, but the same profile pipe (as in photo 3 on the left) only smaller in width (40x40x3 mm, or even 40x20x3 mm).
The floor of the trailer body can be made of metal sheet (as in photo 3, if you plan to transport something heavy), but you can also use chipboard, textolite, thick 20 mm plywood. If we use plywood or chipboard, then before painting they should be coated with natural drying oil to prevent exposure to moisture in the future.
If you plan to transport large cargo, then it is better to immediately increase the sides, as shown in photo 4 on the left. To increase the height of the sides, we again use a profile pipe, but of a smaller transverse size (30x30x3, or 30x20x3).
Next, all that remains is to weld the hitch for the ball joint (they are already on sale in car markets now) to the top of the L-shaped jumper, previously welded to the trailer frame. To the same jumper, in the area of the ball joint, but from below, an “ear” should be welded into which the axis of the folding stop will be inserted.
The support will be needed so that the trailer, after uncoupling it from the car, stands strictly horizontally on the ground. However, the presence of a stop is not necessary; you can do without it.
Then you should cover the sides of the trailer with metal sheets, plywood or textolite and then prime and paint the car trailer (photo 5).
It is advisable to hang the tailgate on door canopies (you can make the canopies yourself, as in photo 6) in order to be able to open the tailgate during loading or unloading.
Locks and hinges (door hinges) for the hinged tailgate can be purchased at markets or hardware stores.
Well, don’t forget that on the rear side, or just below, you should definitely attach and connect the brake lights, parking lights and turn signals. All this can be found from some car at a salvage yard for pennies. Attaching and connecting standard (factory) brake lights, turn signals and side lights to the trailer will allow you to easily register your homemade car trailer at the local MREO and then undergo technical inspection without any problems.
And lastly, if the trailer will be used somewhere in the village, then fenders are optional (as in the photo above), since the absence of fenders (mud flaps) increases the trailer's cross-country ability in mud. Well, if the trailer is made for the city, then installing fenders is very desirable, otherwise the trailer and the car will always be dirty. Making flat fenders for trailer wheels is very simple, from thin sheet metal, and therefore this process has not been described.
By the way, if the sides of your trailer are wider than in the photographs above (that is, the sides will overlap the wheels when viewed from above), then you can not make fenders, but simply hang rubber mud flaps under each side, in front and behind each wheel.
A DIY trailer is the second option with independent spring suspension.
This option is more difficult to make than the option described above with dependent leaf spring suspension. Since you will have to buy or make independent A-arms (pendulums), and hang them on the trailer frame through bronze bushings turned on a lathe. You can use rubber silent blocks instead of bronze bushings, but bushings are still much more reliable and durable.
Zhiguli lever made of sheet steel.
This version of independent trailer suspension allows you to use a homemade trailer on any off-road terrain and is more suitable for SUV owners. This option with soft independent suspension is also perfect for a boat trailer.
You can look at a motorcycle disassembly site for ready-made levers from the Ant scooter suspension, or common sheet steel levers from classic Zhiguli cars (shown in the photo).
Or look for levers from the rear suspension of some foreign passenger car (as in the photo on the right - by the way, this photo shows the rear suspension lever of a car along with a fixed factory hub, shock absorber and brake drum (with a brake cable), which means you won’t need to bother with securing the hub on the lever.
In addition, it will be possible to use the brakes on the trailer (by connecting a cable to or to the brakes of the car), if you plan to transport something very heavy). Such a lever will need to be secured to the trailer frame rotated 90º, unlike the front suspension arms of Zhiguli and other cars.
In general, there are a lot of options for making a spring suspension for a trailer, just like there are designs for spring suspensions for passenger cars, there are as many options for making a suspension for a homemade trailer.
You can search and purchase on websites or in car dealerships, ready-made new levers with already welded support cups for the springs, as in the photo on the left. If you can’t find ready-made A-shaped levers, then you’ll have to make the levers yourself, there’s nothing complicated about it.
Springs can be found at disassembly, and their thickness and, accordingly, rigidity depend on what kind of cargo you are going to transport in the future. If you plan to transport a boat or a small light boat, then springs from an Ant scooter, or some kind of ATV, motorcycle, etc. will be quite sufficient.
When making A-shaped suspension arms yourself, you will need a steel sheet for reinforcing gussets, a round thick-walled pipe with a diameter of approximately 25 - 30 mm, a slightly thicker pipe for bushings for silent blocks (or for bronze bushings).
Homemade A-arm made from straight pipes. All that remains is to weld an adapter to the top of the lever to secure the hub axis.
The design of the levers is clear from the photo above. It shows levers with curved pipes, but if you don’t have one, you can make levers with absolutely straight pipes, in the shape of an even letter A, as in the photo on the right.
When the levers are purchased or ready, all that remains is to attach the wheel hub axles to the ends of the levers and put them on the axles themselves.
In order to secure the hub axles and the hubs themselves with bolts to the end of the A-arm, or to the end of the spring suspension pipe, you will need to cut square (see photo below) or round adapters with holes from thick sheet metal (thickness 18 - 20 mm) (round adapters - flanges can be cut on a lathe from thick sheet metal), into which the hub axle flange will be bolted (as in the photo).
Having cut adapters from thick sheet metal and drilled holes in them (at the same distance as on the flange of the hub axle), all that remains is to weld them to the A-shaped arm, or to the transverse pipe of the spring suspension (the photo on the left shows exactly the option with a pipe for spring suspension).
If the square adapter for the hub axle will be welded not to the spring suspension pipe, but to the end of the A-shaped spring suspension arm, then the adapter during welding should also be reinforced with gussets welded across the adapter (square) (as in the drawing on the right), cut from dozens of sheet metal (thickness 8 - 10 mm).
It is advisable to install shock absorbers inside the spring (or nearby), which will add comfort. However, this makes the design heavier and more complicated. It is much more convenient to mount shock absorbers from some kind of motorcycle, which themselves have a common design (shock absorber and spring as one whole).
By the way, when using shock absorbers from motorcycles (together with springs), it will not be necessary to make support cups for automobile springs from sheet metal and weld them. It is enough to weld lugs to the suspension arms for mounting bolts for silent blocks of motorcycle shock absorbers.
There are many options for choosing parts and making an independent soft suspension for a car trailer with your own hands, and everyone chooses what is more convenient, and sometimes based on what comes to hand at a car or motorcycle disassembly. And of course, it is impossible to describe absolutely all options for manufacturing a suspension for a car trailer in one article. However, the basic and simplest options for making a trailer suspension have been described.
Having made the suspension, all that remains is to weld the trailer frame and sides, then sheathe the floor and sides, as described above, in the first version (with a beam and springs). And then all that remains is to fasten the independent spring suspension to the frame (by the way, it is more convenient to make the suspension removable rather than welded). Of course, the places where the suspension of the right and left wheels are attached to the frame of a homemade car trailer must be absolutely symmetrical, which can be checked using a regular tape measure.
It should also be remembered that when attaching the upper spring and shock absorber support, you need to ensure that the wheels of the empty trailer are suspended with some negative camber. Otherwise, when the trailer is fully loaded, the tire tread will wear unevenly (more on the inside than on the outside).
Well, don’t forget about the feet, dimensions and turn signals (described above).
In conclusion (below), you can watch a video about making a trailer with your own hands, the simplest non-suspension version. And although it shows how to make a trailer with your own hands for a walk-behind tractor (the principle of constructing a car trailer is the same) and does not show how to attach the hubs to the transverse pipe, all this was described above, good luck to everyone.
A car trailer is designed for transporting goods. If you have to deliver large or heavy products, for example: household appliances, building materials, etc., you cannot do without such a device on your farm. Prices in stores for new trailed equipment are steep. This raises the question: is it possible to make such a cart with your own hands? It is possible, dear readers, of course it is possible. This is what we will do in our material today.
The supporting body of a trailer can be made by combining a metal frame with its frame. Five crossbars that need to be placed between the crossbars will create the platform lattice. Regarding the spars, small releases of consoles need to be released.
Then, using welding, longitudinal elements are welded on the sides of the ends. Four racks are installed on them through all the cross members, which are also welded. For the spars, you can use 60x30 mm pipes; they are rectangular in cross-section. The remaining elements of the trailer - crossbars, racks and traverses - are made from 25x25 mm pipe.
To transport long items in the back, it is better to make its sides folding. It is best to cover the platform grid with a 2 mm thick duralumin sheet. By screwing it to the base with M5 bolts, you will get a good floor for the trailer.
The trolley bridge beam is made of two equal sections of channels. They need to be inserted into each other, and the joint should be boiled. At the ends of one of the channels, two axles for the wheels are welded in advance.
To connect the beam and frame spars, you can use two springs from the old Moskvich. It will also make wheels for a future cart. The trailer drawbar is made of a double beam from a 60x30 mm pipe. The rear ends of the drawbar are welded overlapping to the front side members, and its front part converges on the coupling device.
At the last stage, the rear side of the trailer is equipped with the necessary illumination: brake lights, side and turning lights. As a backup circuit, they are connected by wires to the vehicle's electrical equipment. All this will make the maneuvers of your car with a towbar understandable to other drivers while driving.
This is all. We hope that you have learned the general concepts of making your own trailer. Have an easy job!
sovetclub.ru
Homemade trailer for a car
Travelers need a caravan on a long journey; it allows them to take with them all the necessary things, and there may be a lot of them. Industrial trailers are presented in a wide range, but they have one significant drawback - a fairly high price. 
To save money, you can make a trailer for a car with your own hands; for this you will need to draw up a drawing, purchase the necessary material, and have the tools for manufacturing available.
Trailer material
Often, in the garages of car owners, various rubbish lies as unnecessary cargo, which is a pity to throw out, but it has not found any use. You need to dig into these things and see if maybe something will be suitable for making homemade goods. What may be useful:
- wheels and springs from an old car, disassembled for parts;
- pieces of sheet iron;
- channel or corner;
- various fasteners (nuts, bolts);
- pieces of automotive electrical wiring.
You need to decide for yourself what the load capacity of a car trailer (AT) should be - the car’s passport details indicate what the maximum weight of the trailer is designed for. If some material is missing, you will have to purchase it in addition; you will also need a plug to connect the car's electrical wiring to the AP.
Do-it-yourself trailer for a car: drawing up a drawing
When all the necessary material has been collected, you can begin drawing up the drawing. It is not very easy to draw a sketch of a future product on paper yourself, so to make the task easier, you can take a ready-made drawing from the Internet as a basis, and make your own adjustments to it as you create the design. The car owner should also remember that the homemade product will have to be registered with the traffic police, and it is important to note that the coupling device can only be used here as a factory-made one. 
For example, a drawing of the Zhiguli AP can serve as a model for a future trailer, if the vehicle itself is similar in size and carrying capacity to this car model. Any car trailer consists of the following main parts:
- body;
- frames;
- drawbar;
- coupling device.
In any case, the frame must be rigid, so it is made of durable steel. As a rule, the body is also made of ferrous metal, but it can also be aluminum or wood.
Types of DIY trailers
A homemade trailer for a passenger car usually has one axle, but it can also be biaxial. The main advantages of a two-axle trailer are:
- road stability;
- high load capacity.
But the two-axle design has its drawbacks, such a trailer:
- more difficult to control, especially during manual maneuvering;
- weighs quite a lot;
- less mobile.
When making a homemade product, it should be taken into account that a single-axle AP should be designed for transported cargo weighing no more than 750 kg. The rules for operating vehicles with trailers also state that the load on one wheel cannot exceed 700 kg.
Caravans vary according to type of use:
Trailers are often equipped with an awning; motorhomes, which are very convenient for long journeys, are also popular among motor tourists. True, to transport such a design, a passenger car must have sufficient carrying capacity; crossovers and SUVs are well suited for towing.
The cost of an industrial car trailer for a passenger car
Industrial trailers have different prices, the price depends on:
- on the complexity of manufacturing;
- dimensions;
- quality of materials used;
- type (purpose);
- configurations
The simplest general-purpose trailer will be the cheapest in terms of cost, for example, you can buy a trailer of the LAV-81011 model from the Vector company for an average of 40 thousand rubles. The characteristics of this design are as follows:
- own weight – 175 kg;
- weight of transported cargo – 525 kg;
- The maximum weight of a loaded aircraft is 700 kg.
The trailer has dimensions of 2.9/1.6/1.28 m (length/width/height) and has a very good ground clearance of 167 mm. LAV-81011 is equipped with an awning, its height is 0.45 m. The sides of the body of this model can be folded down or completely removed; there are two modifications.
There are trailers that are much more expensive, for example, a trailer for transporting boats costs on average from 200 to 350 thousand rubles.
Tool for making a homemade trailer
To make homemade products, designers primarily use welding; there are motorists who only use it. Using gas welding, you can not only weld structural parts, but also cut pieces of metal of the required size with a cutter.
Even when assembling a homemade structure, the following is often used:
- angle grinder (grinder);
- automotive tools (spanners and socket wrenches, sockets with wrenches and extensions).
DIY trailer assembly
Having drawn up a drawing, the DIYers first begin to manufacture the frame. To assemble it, a steel channel is very often used, so that the metal can withstand loads well; its cross-section must be at least 25x50 mm. Also, the frame is often made of a metal pipe, but it is more convenient to work with a channel. 
The rolled metal is first cut to the dimensions specified in the drawing, then the sections of the channel profile are welded together. After welding the main body, the frame should be reinforced with additional stiffeners, otherwise the structure will be unreliable.
If you plan to create a trailer on springs, brackets should be welded to the frame. The springs will be attached to the frame base with bolts and nuts, and the axle and springs will be connected using stepladders. The brackets are welded with a slight offset to the rear of the structure, this ensures the greatest stability of the homemade trailer.
Next, a drawbar should be welded to the frame, and a towbar should be mounted at its end. If the connection point between the trailer and the car is made too long, driving the trailer will not be very convenient, and it will be especially difficult to maneuver in reverse. The drawbar must be welded strictly in the center, otherwise the trailer will pull to the side. Even for a uniaxial design, it is necessary to distribute the weight so that the main load of the empty AP falls approximately on the center. If the “back” of the cart is heavier, the force on the coupling device will increase, and it will be under constant tension.
A part of the coupling device is installed at the end of the connecting unit; the tow bar can be rigidly attached to the drawbar by welding, or with bolts and nuts. 
Next you should work on the body; the easiest way is to make it from plywood or wood. The plywood floor is screwed to the base with bolts and nuts; the sides are better made of a more durable material - wood or sheet iron. It would also be a good idea to cover the floor with sheets of iron; plywood can quickly become scratched and become unusable.
But the assembly of the trailer does not end there; it is still necessary to install the rear lights and connect the wiring. Two-axle trailers are often equipped with brakes; the braking system makes driving the vehicle easier. It is especially important to install brakes on a trailer for transporting heavy loads weighing more than 1400 kg.
Do-it-yourself dump-type passenger trailer
An AP is often necessary for transporting bulk cargo - river sand, gravel or crushed stone. Unloading construction materials from a regular body is inconvenient - unloading takes a lot of time. You can make the task easier by installing a dump-type body on the trailer, with a reverse tipping mechanism.
The frame and axle in this design have a movable connection, and a manual body lifting mechanism is installed in front. 
You don’t have to install the mechanism, but then you need to weld a support in front. In this option, the body will tip backwards under its own weight when the locking device is removed. 
For a homemade dump truck trailer, it is important that its sides tip over.
Towbars for cars
To connect the trailer to the car body, you need to install a tow bar on the car. A towbar for a car consists of parts:
- hinge with hook;
- power beam;
- sockets for connecting wires.
The industry produces towbars of various designs; there are trailer hitches in which the hook is welded to the beam, and together with the hinge it represents a single, monolithic structure. But more often hinges are produced with a removable hook, and this version of the device has the advantage that in case of damage to the coupling joint or wear of the ball, the coupling can always be replaced. 
There are also trailer hitch systems where the ball can be removed from the hook and replaced separately. Many towbars are equipped with a safety device that prevents complete loss of connection between the car and the trailer; it is necessary for safety. 
Registration of a homemade trailer in the traffic police
Any homemade car trailer must be registered with the traffic police; for this you need to provide:
- sales and cash receipts for components and parts purchased for assembling a home-made structure;
- four photos 10 by 15, photos must be from all sides of the trailer;
- personal passport;
- application for registration;
- receipts for payment of state fees.
After registration, license plates are issued for the trailer; technical inspection for trailers with a carrying capacity of up to 3.5 tons is not required if the trailer belongs to a private person.
DIY trailers for cars: video
avtobrands.ru
DIY trailers for cars
Today, almost every family has a personal car, but often the trunk volume is simply not enough to transport household goods. A light trailer is perfect for these purposes.
Due to the fact that it is not required for household needs so often, many car owners prefer to undertake its production themselves. To be honest, this makes some sense, especially if the plans are not to build a universal trailer, but something narrowly focused, for example, for a boat or motorcycle.
Is it profitable to make a trailer yourself?
This is a rather controversial issue, because in this case there are several factors that influence the final cost of the structure.
- Availability of the necessary tools. In order to assemble a trailer with your own hands, you will need a fairly large number of hand tools, which you will need to buy or rent. If you already have this tool, you have the opportunity to cross out a fairly significant expense item.
- Skills. The nature of this expense is that special skills may be required. For example, welding. Without welding joints, it will be simply impossible to assemble the structure completely.
- Materials. Another significant expense item that cannot be avoided. However, if you have the opportunity to get any components at competitive prices, this will be a definite plus. Or rather, a minus to the total cost of the trailer. You just have to take into account that many components must be supported by a certificate.
- Preparation of documents. There are also expenses that you can’t do without. Investments will definitely be required for design certification and registration.
How to make a trailer for a car with your own hands?
The classic-style passenger trailer itself has a fairly simple design. In fact, the frame and sides are combined together, which when assembled constitutes a kind of “supporting body”.
That is why assembling everything with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Let's take a closer look at the necessary materials and tools needed to assemble the structure:
Materials for a homemade trailer
Naturally, the assembly begins with the selection of material. Of course, depending on the design features, the list can be trimmed or supplemented, but in general this list is the most common.
- Channel 25x50 millimeters to create the base, in particular the frame and sides. It is not uncommon to use a square pipe, the optimal size of which is 40x40 millimeters.
- Metal sheets for lining sides. Both steel with a thickness of 1 millimeter and aluminum with a thickness of three millimeters are excellent.
- Plywood or thick sheet of metal for making the bottom. In fact, a huge number of different materials are used for these purposes, ranging from wooden flooring to plastic. You just have to take into account that the material must have a sufficient margin of safety.
- Chassis elements. This item depends entirely on the design features of the trailer. For example, the rear axle from a Zhiguli or a Muscovite is often used. Spring suspension elements from Volka are often used. The wheels will also be selected accordingly depending on what formed the basis of the design.
- Electrical equipment. In particular, rear lights, wiring elements, a special “socket”, etc. This also includes reflectors.
- Fastening elements. Brackets, angles, bolts, nuts, screws and other fasteners.
- Hitch. This element must have a certificate and factory origin. It is permissible to use a hitch removed from a factory trailer.
List of tools
Unlike the list of materials, the list of tools will be somewhat smaller, but it must be treated with no less responsibility.
In total, there are three major points regarding the tool:
- Hand tool. This includes everything, a fairly standard set. Hammer, pliers, wire cutters, curved and flat screwdrivers, etc. You may need a hand riveter, wood and metal hacksaws.
- Power tools. You can't do without this point. A grinder with a set of discs, an electric drill are required, it is advisable to find a screwdriver and a jigsaw.
- Welding machine. If for some reason you do not have the opportunity to use a welding machine, then you can simply forget about assembling the trailer yourself, because... Without welding joints, assembling the frame simply won’t work.
How to make a drawing?
Many people seriously think about drawing up drawings with their own hands, however, in this case this is not the best solution.
It would be much more rational to use a drawing of a ready-made factory trailer, or ready-made drawings that were published in Soviet magazines are quite popular. The latter, by the way, are freely available and quite suitable for use.
It is worth noting that no one limits making changes to the finished drawing so that the finished product fully meets your requirements. But it’s definitely not worth making a trailer without an idea of how it should look in the end, so you simply can’t do without drawings and calculations.
Assembling a light trailer - stages
Once you have the drawings, the necessary tools and a complete set of materials, you can begin the main process.
The production of a trailer can be divided into several stages, each of which must be considered in more detail:
- The first step is to make the frame as strong as possible. To do this, a square or rectangular base with several cross members is welded, the purpose of which is to maximize the strength of the structure. At the same stage, a coupling device and brackets intended for attaching suspension elements are welded to the frame.
- The second step is making the sides. The corresponding pieces of metal are vertically welded to the finished frame. By the way, you should not weld them only at the corners of the frame; the sides experience quite strong loads, so it is recommended to take care of their intermediate reinforcement. I often make the tailgate hinged, and therefore this part will have to be welded using canopies.
- The trailer axle should not be installed in the middle, but slightly shifted towards the rear side. It is recommended to install the axle with the assistance of an assistant, and for convenience the frame can be turned over. Depending on which car elements are chosen as suspension, what features will appear during installation will also depend. In particular, it is recommended to use springs and shock absorbers. Of course, springs can withstand heavy loads, but with springs the trailer will be softer and more manageable.
- The lining of the sides and bottom is carried out using pre-prepared material. In the case of using metal, it is quite acceptable to simply weld the sheets to the sides, but another quite popular method is to use special aluminum rivets, which are sufficiently strong and easy to install.
- When installing electrical equipment, it is worth remembering that all connections must be as tight as possible; it is recommended to use a special protective corrugation for laying wires. The wiring must be secured carefully, excluding any unnecessary hanging wires. Light elements from onboard Gazelles and UAZs are often used as flashlights.
The cost of a homemade trailer
When compared with factory-made products, if you have the necessary tools, sufficient experience in using them and a suitable place for assembly, a home-made trailer for a passenger car is 30-50% cheaper.
But it is worth remembering that additional costs may arise on tools and the involvement of third-party specialists, in particular a welder, which means that on average, a car owner who is not very technically “advanced” will be able to save 20-30% of the cost of a similar model assembled in a factory.
Types of homemade trailers
There are several types of homemade trailers that are quite common in our country:
- Universal. Most common. It is a square or rectangular body designed for transporting various cargoes. The simplest and most affordable option.
- Special purpose. A trailer for transporting specific items is most often an ATV, motorcycle or boat.
- Travel trailer. A rare option, but it also occurs. Designed for travel and outdoor activities. Not everyone undertakes the manufacture of such a complex structure, and getting it registered is not so easy.
Do-it-yourself two-axle car trailer
Structurally, a two-axle trailer is not much different from a single-axle one. The main difference is only the dimensions and, accordingly, the presence of a second axis. At the same time, such models are more stable on the road and have a much greater load capacity.
If you plan to assemble just such a trailer, then you should know that not all designs fall under category “B”. If the weight of the trailer exceeds 750 kilograms, a driver’s license with an open category “E” will be required.
How to connect a trailer to a car?
The trailer is connected to the vehicle using a hitch. Needless to say, the car must be equipped with a towbar. When making a homemade trailer, it is worth remembering that the shorter the connecting part is, the more controllable and sensitive the hitch will be.
Therefore, the optimal length is from 1.5 to 2 meters. Also, a special “socket” must be provided for connection to the vehicle’s electrical wiring. The wiring diagram can be found in the owner's manual for a specific vehicle.
- There is no need to assemble a trailer weighing more than 750 kilograms unless you have an open category “E”.
- There is no need to load a homemade trailer to the limit to avoid unpleasant situations.
- Be sure to use a certified hitch. A homemade device can not only fail you at a crucial moment, but also become a reason for refusal to register a vehicle.
- Carefully check all welds and connections; if you are not sure of the quality of your welds, invite a specialist who can professionally perform this work.
Registration of a homemade trailer
To register a homemade trailer, you will need to perform the following steps:
- Collect the necessary documents, in particular a document confirming an independent examination of the design’s compliance, a document confirming the absence of a license plate, a coupling certificate, a photocopy of a Russian citizen’s passport.
- Contact an authorized person at the MREO, and after inspecting and familiarizing yourself with the technical condition of the vehicle, obtain a state registration number.
It is worth remembering that registration will require some material costs, in particular for conducting an examination and paying state duties.
As you can see, assembling the trailer is quite simple, while doing all the work yourself, you will not only realize the full potential of the car and significantly facilitate some household tasks, but also save a fairly impressive amount of money. How to make a trailer with your own hands for a passenger car? Link to main publication
autopravilo.ru
DIY car trailer.
How to make a trailer with your own hands will be discussed in this article, and several manufacturing options will be described, depending on the wheel suspension. Many drivers begin to think about making their own trailer when the need arises to transport some kind of cargo, for example, during the construction of a house or cottage. And when searching for a ready-made trailer, many do not find what they need on sale, and if they do, the trailer costs quite a bit.
With self-production, car owners have the opportunity not only to save a significant amount of money, but also to make a trailer to suit their needs and the dimensions of the cargo being transported, as well as the size of their car. In addition, some trailer parts can be made literally from iron trash that is lying around in the garage or at the dacha, or you can find something for pennies at a car disassembly (for example, the same suspension parts and wheels).
Below we will first describe the manufacture of a soft (suspension) version of a trailer, using a ready-made automobile beam, then a completely home-made version with a suspension will be described, and at the very end the simplest non-suspension version will be shown, which can be used locally (if cargo should be transported nearby and on a good road).
And of course, each driver will be able to choose the trailer manufacturing option that is more suitable for him in terms of operating conditions, as well as depending on the complexity of manufacturing. There is no point in listing what tools and materials you will need to make a trailer at the beginning, since everything will be described during the process.
Do-it-yourself trailer - an option with a ready-made car beam.
As the name already implies, you will need to find a rear suspension beam from some old car at a car disassembly site. Instead of a beam, you can use a suitable pipe (for example, 80 mm in diameter), this option will be easier, but in this case you will have to attach the wheel hubs to the pipe and attach the springs to the pipe. But with a beam everything is much simpler, since all the fastenings are already there.
However, some springs can also be secured to a regular pipe using hairpin clamps (as shown in the photo with a square adapter for the hub - below in the text). Using a pipe instead of a factory beam will lighten the weight of the suspension, since the beam is still significantly heavier than the pipe. What to choose - a pipe or a finished beam, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and what material is available.
The price of a beam can be a penny if you use a beam not from a foreign car, but from a Soviet car. And if the price of some ancient Moskvich can be in the range of $100 - $150, then it is not difficult to guess that the price of the rear beam from the same Moskvich will be very low.
The advantage of the Moskvich beam and its rear suspension is that the Moskvich suspension uses leaf springs rather than springs, which means that the load-carrying capacity of a trailer with springs will allow even cubes of a boiler for construction to be transported in the trailer. In addition, it will always be possible to add a couple of additional springs and thereby further increase the load-carrying capacity of the trailer, in case of emergency.
Well, another advantage of the leaf spring suspension is that you will not need to spend additional time making A-arms for the independent suspension, which is usually used with springs. However, this more complex option will be discussed below.
And so we purchased a beam (rear axle), preferably together with hubs and wheels, and of course with springs attached to the beam (see photo 1).
The axle shafts can be cut off, and the main pair of the rear axle gearbox can be removed from the housing along with the bearings - they will no longer be needed, and the weight of the beam will be significantly reduced. Well, the hole for the exit of the cardan shaft cross will need to be closed with a homemade plug. That's it - the base of the trailer is there.
Ear for attaching the spring to the trailer frame.
Next, you should make the ears shown in photo 2 below and in the photo on the left. “Ears” could also be cut off from the car body during disassembly (the factory ear is shown in the photo on the left), but if this was not possible, then they would have to be made from sheet metal 4 - 6 mm thick.
These "ears" will be used to attach the springs to the trailer frame once the frame is built.
It is best to make the frame from a profile pipe (a rectangular profile 40x60x4, but a square one 60x60x4 is also possible), since such a pipe is quite rigid, despite the small thickness of the walls, and is not too heavy, unlike a corner one. In addition, it is very convenient to weld the joints of the profile pipe at the corners of the frame.
Of course, before welding the frame, you should measure with a tape measure and mark the desired length with a marker, and then cut pipe blanks for the base, which has the shape of a rectangle.
The two longest pipes (long sides of the frame rectangle) will be the length that you want to get the final trailer body (2 meters is quite enough, but if longer, then it is preferable to make a two-axle trailer). Well, the width of the other two transverse pipes for the short sides of the frame rectangle, if possible, should not be wider than the dimensions of your car.
Having cut two long pipes and two shorter ones with a grinder, we grind chamfers from the edges of all pipes (for a reliable weld) and lay the pipes on a flat floor, laying out an equilateral rectangle of pipes.
We check all the corners of the rectangle using a square (so that the angle is strictly 90º), then we electrically weld the pipe joints, check the corners again with a square and finally weld the joints.
We use a conventional welding machine, with an electrode diameter equal to the thickness of the pipe wall, but it is much more convenient and faster to work with a semi-automatic machine, if you have one, and the quality of the seam will be better (and without scale).
Having welded the rectangle, we then prepare (cut) two or three transverse pipes, which we weld in the middle of the rectangle (this will add rigidity and add an additional supporting surface to the floor of the trailer body, and the longer the trailer, the more transverse pipes should be welded).
After this, you can weld the frame to the suspension (through pre-made “ears”) and then from the front, weld an L-shaped jumper to the rectangular frame of the future car trailer, which is indicated by yellow arrows in photo 2 above), onto the top of which the ball joint of the towing device will subsequently be welded - towbar. I recommend reading about how to make a tow bar for your car here.
Well, now all that remains is to make a body with a hinged tailgate and attach it to the trailer frame. There are also several options for making the body. You can weld a frame from an angle (in the shape of a parallelogram) and then weld it to the frame (or bolt it).
Next, the frame from the corner (floor and sides) is sheathed with chipboard, plywood, textolite, metal sheet, etc., depending on the cargo being transported.
But you can use not a corner for the body frame, but the same profile pipe (as in photo 3 on the left) only smaller in width (40x40x3 mm, or even 40x20x3 mm).
The floor of the trailer body can be made of metal sheet (as in photo 3, if you plan to transport something heavy), but you can also use chipboard, textolite, thick 20 mm plywood. If we use plywood or chipboard, then before painting they should be coated with natural drying oil to prevent exposure to moisture in the future.
If you plan to transport large cargo, then it is better to immediately increase the sides, as shown in photo 4 on the left. To increase the height of the sides, we again use a profile pipe, but of a smaller transverse size (30x30x3, or 30x20x3).
Next, all that remains is to weld the hitch for the ball joint (they are already on sale in car markets now) to the top of the L-shaped jumper, previously welded to the trailer frame. To the same jumper, in the area of the ball joint, but from below, an “ear” should be welded into which the axis of the folding stop will be inserted.
The support will be needed so that the trailer, after uncoupling it from the car, stands strictly horizontally on the ground. However, the presence of a stop is not necessary; you can do without it.
Then you should cover the sides of the trailer with metal sheets, plywood or textolite and then prime and paint the car trailer (photo 5).
It is advisable to hang the tailgate on door canopies (you can make the canopies yourself, as in photo 6) in order to be able to open the tailgate during loading or unloading.
Locks and hinges (door hinges) for the hinged tailgate can be purchased at markets or hardware stores.
Well, don’t forget that on the rear side, or just below, you should definitely attach and connect the brake lights, parking lights and turn signals. All this can be found from some car at a salvage yard for pennies. Attaching and connecting standard (factory) brake lights, turn signals and side lights to the trailer will allow you to easily register your homemade car trailer at the local MREO and then undergo technical inspection without any problems.
And lastly, if the trailer will be used somewhere in the village, then fenders are optional (as in the photo above), since the absence of fenders (mud flaps) increases the trailer's cross-country ability in mud. Well, if the trailer is made for the city, then installing fenders is very desirable, otherwise the trailer and the car will always be dirty. Making flat fenders for trailer wheels is very simple, from thin sheet metal, and therefore this process has not been described.
By the way, if the sides of your trailer are wider than in the photographs above (that is, the sides will overlap the wheels when viewed from above), then you can not make fenders, but simply hang rubber mud flaps under each side, in front and behind each wheel.
A DIY trailer is the second option with independent spring suspension.
This option is more difficult to make than the option described above with dependent leaf spring suspension. Since you will have to buy or make independent A-arms (pendulums), and hang them on the trailer frame through bronze bushings turned on a lathe. You can use rubber silent blocks instead of bronze bushings, but bushings are still much more reliable and durable.
Zhiguli lever made of sheet steel.
This version of independent trailer suspension allows you to use a homemade trailer on any off-road terrain and is more suitable for SUV owners. This option with soft independent suspension is also perfect for a boat trailer.
You can look at a motorcycle disassembly site for ready-made levers from the Ant scooter suspension, or common sheet steel levers from classic Zhiguli cars (shown in the photo).
Or look for levers from the rear suspension of some foreign passenger car (as in the photo on the right - by the way, this photo shows the rear suspension lever of a car along with a fixed factory hub, shock absorber and brake drum (with a brake cable), which means you won’t need to bother with securing the hub on the lever.
In addition, it will be possible to use the brakes on the trailer (by connecting the cable to an additional handbrake or to the brakes of the car), if you plan to transport something very heavy). Such a lever will need to be secured to the trailer frame rotated 90º, unlike the front suspension arms of Zhiguli and other cars.
In general, there are a lot of options for making a spring suspension for a trailer, just like there are designs for spring suspensions for passenger cars, there are as many options for making a suspension for a homemade trailer.
You can search and purchase on websites or in car dealerships, ready-made new levers with already welded support cups for the springs, as in the photo on the left. If you can’t find ready-made A-shaped levers, then you’ll have to make the levers yourself, there’s nothing complicated about it.
Springs can be found at disassembly, and their thickness and, accordingly, rigidity depend on what kind of cargo you are going to transport in the future. If you plan to transport a boat or a small light boat, then springs from an Ant scooter, or some kind of ATV, motorcycle, etc. will be quite sufficient.
When making A-shaped suspension arms yourself, you will need a steel sheet for reinforcing gussets, a round thick-walled pipe with a diameter of approximately 25 - 30 mm, a slightly thicker pipe for bushings for silent blocks (or for bronze bushings).
Homemade A-arm made from straight pipes. All that remains is to weld an adapter to the top of the lever to secure the hub axis.
The design of the levers is clear from the photo above. It shows levers with curved pipes, but if you don’t have a pipe bender, you can make levers with absolutely straight pipes, in the shape of an even letter A, as in the photo on the right.
When the levers are purchased or ready, all that remains is to attach the wheel hub axles to the ends of the levers and put the hubs themselves on the axles.
In order to secure the hub axles and the hubs themselves with bolts to the end of the A-arm, or to the end of the spring suspension tube, you will need to cut square (see photo below) or round adapters with holes from thick sheet metal (thickness 18 - 20 mm) (round adapters - flanges can be cut on a lathe from thick sheet metal), into which the hub axle flange will be bolted (as in the photo).
Having cut adapters from thick sheet metal and drilled holes in them (at the same distance as on the flange of the hub axle), all that remains is to weld them to the A-shaped arm, or to the transverse pipe of the spring suspension (the photo on the left shows exactly the option with a pipe for spring suspension).
If the square adapter for the hub axle will be welded not to the spring suspension pipe, but to the end of the A-shaped spring suspension arm, then the adapter during welding should also be reinforced with gussets welded across the adapter (square) (as in the drawing on the right), cut from dozens of sheet metal (thickness 8 - 10 mm).
It is advisable to install shock absorbers inside the spring (or nearby), which will add comfort. However, this makes the design heavier and more complicated. It is much more convenient to mount shock absorbers from some kind of motorcycle, which themselves have a common design (shock absorber and spring as one whole).
By the way, when using shock absorbers from motorcycles (together with springs), it will not be necessary to make support cups for automobile springs from sheet metal and weld them. It is enough to weld lugs to the suspension arms for mounting bolts for silent blocks of motorcycle shock absorbers.
There are many options for choosing parts and making an independent soft suspension for a car trailer with your own hands, and everyone chooses what is more convenient, and sometimes based on what comes to hand at a car or motorcycle disassembly. And of course, it is impossible to describe absolutely all options for manufacturing a suspension for a car trailer in one article. However, the basic and simplest options for making a trailer suspension have been described.
Having made the suspension, all that remains is to weld the trailer frame and sides, then sheathe the floor and sides, as described above, in the first version (with a beam and springs). And then all that remains is to fasten the independent spring suspension to the frame (by the way, it is more convenient to make the suspension removable rather than welded). Of course, the places where the suspension of the right and left wheels are attached to the frame of a homemade car trailer must be absolutely symmetrical, which can be checked using a regular tape measure.
It should also be remembered that when attaching the upper spring and shock absorber support, you need to ensure that the wheels of the empty trailer are suspended with some negative camber. Otherwise, when the trailer is fully loaded, the tire tread will wear unevenly (more on the inside than on the outside).
Well, don’t forget about the feet, dimensions and turn signals (described above).
In conclusion (below), you can watch a video about making a trailer with your own hands, the simplest non-suspension version. And although it shows how to make a trailer with your own hands for a walk-behind tractor (the principle of constructing a car trailer is the same) and does not show how to attach the hubs to the transverse pipe, all this was described above, good luck to everyone.
suvorov-custom.ru
A trailer is a vehicle that does not have an engine installed. It is designed to travel in conjunction with a car. Despite the apparent complexity of such a device for transporting goods, it is not difficult to make a trailer with your own hands. For successful work, you need to choose the right parts and materials, make sketches or drawings.
Transport trailers
The widespread use of semi-trailers and trailers is due to the additional convenience when transporting heavy loads. The vehicle bears only part of the load, which extends its service life. When unloading, you can save valuable time by unhooking the cart and leaving it in place, and unloading it at a convenient time. This option is convenient and is used for delivering goods between workshops of the same enterprise located at a certain distance.
All towed devices are divided into two groups:
- Special-purpose trailers allow you to take into account the needs of working with various loads, but there are quite a few universal vehicles for such work. Common types include heavy-duty semi-trailers, log trucks, panel trucks, cement trucks and other types of trailed equipment.
- General transport equipment includes flatbed, tilt and other trailers of various sizes designed for transporting heavy loads of any kind.
Varieties depending on load distribution
The designs of trailed vehicles use different steering wheel control systems in order to improve the maneuverability and speed of control of the road train. Hitches are standard in most cases. If the trailer has an active wheel drive from the car engine, then such carriages are called active automobile trains.
To drive such an active drive, a mechanical transmission is used via a coupling device or a hydraulic drive is used.
If the road train has two or more links, then the engine is located in the section at the rear. Unofficially, there is the concept of “trailer”; it is used to move cars, other equipment or oversized cargo (long or heavy).
Depending on the load distribution between the trailer and the tractor, trailers are divided into several types:
Requirements for transport devices
A person who wants to independently make a transport vehicle for moving goods should study the requirements for car trailers. These standards are contained in GOST 37.001.220−1980, which is called “Trailers for passenger cars.” A selection of these requirements includes the following provisions:
Features of using carts
Car trailers are used only in accordance with their intended purpose, as this is due to similar tires and wheels with the main vehicle, track width, and travel within certain ground clearance dimensions. The rule does not apply to heavy trucks and trailers. All breakdowns that occur during operation are similar to malfunctions of the brake system and chassis of the main machine.
In addition, the operation of the trailer is impaired due to damage to the coupling or wear of the turning device.
To delay the repair of these systems, you need to regularly inspect the trailer. Since the operation of the device is associated with constant shaking and shock due to uneven traffic on roads, it is necessary to tighten the fasteners from time to time and align the curved parts. Before operation, you need to check the serviceability of springs, brakes, lighting, tire pressure, the presence of a spare wheel, and the serviceability of side and body locks.
Towing of carts is carried out according to the rules; speeding is unacceptable, as well as sudden braking and unequal distribution of the load. Increasing the speed while driving will cause the trailer to wobble on the sides. Sharp braking causes the car and trailer to fold, this is also facilitated by engine braking. Due to uneven storage of transported materials, stability is impaired and the trailer may tip over.
DIY making
In order to make a caravan yourself, you need to take care of purchasing some materials and tools. In order not to look for the necessary devices during work, they are purchased in advance. List of tools and materials:
Beginning of work
Assembly begins with the trailer frame, which is the supporting structure. It bears the bulk of the weight of the cargo. It is subject to increased requirements for reliability and strength. The prepared channel or square pipe is cut to size according to the drawing, two long and two short blanks are made.
They are used to make a rectangular or square base in the form of a frame, to which sides from a metal sheet will subsequently be attached. Pay attention to the quality of welding, since this is a sore spot for homemade trailers. The hitch is attached in front of the manufactured frame. To install shock absorbers, special eyes are placed in the middle of the frame.
Now it's time to make the side frame. To attach the side railing, vertical posts are strengthened; their length depends on the height of the side. The vertical elements are connected to each other by additional stiffening ribs, since during movement it is the racks that experience the load from the displacement of the load. Additional strengthening connections are made horizontal, vertical or placed obliquely.
Working with the chassis of a trailer is associated with a large number of difficulties and has different features. One of them is that the axle should be located closer to the rear of the trailer. All design features arise depending on which vehicle chassis is used for the trailer. Shock-absorbing lugs and mounts for reaction rods are welded to the frame. Installation and use of the latter are mandatory, since they play the role of elements supporting the bridge.
Final phase
Sheathing the sides with metal and making the bottom of the trailer from plywood is done at the final stage of assembly. A jigsaw is used to cut plywood to fit the internal space, and sheet steel is cut with a grinder. The bottom elements can be made from a single sheet or connected from pieces with an overlap of at least 5 cm. All pieces must be attached around the perimeter to the frame and base elements using bolted connections.
The sides are cut to dimensions that are measured on site. At this stage, it is not relevant to use the dimensions from the drawings, since during the manufacturing process the dimensions of the body frame, as a rule, differ slightly from those provided in the diagrams. Welding or rivets are used as fastening, which also hold the material well. The sides are attached to all racks and strengthening connections.
Electrical equipment
Elements of electrical equipment are installed on the rear wall of the trailer. These include red triangular reflectors, a reversing light, license plate lights, turn signals, brake lights, and side lights. On the wall in the front there are white dimensions and the same reflectors.
The side walls are designed for orange reflectors. To ensure that the wires maintain their integrity, a protective corrugation is put on them. Wire connections must be secure and well secured. It is convenient to attach the corrugation with wiring inside to the frame frame using plastic clamps.
Making a trailer requires skill and experience with power tools, but it will save money compared to buying a ready-made vehicle from a store.
How to make a trailer for a car with your own hands and what tools are needed when creating this type of “accessory” for a car?
On this page you will learn how to make a trailer for your iron horse with your own hands. We will definitely tell you what you will need for this, looking ahead, I will tell you that nothing supernatural is required, an ordinary tool such as an angle grinder, a screwdriver, an electric jigsaw, etc. Also pipes for the frame and much more that can be easily found at any construction base.
And upon completion of the manufacture of the trailer, you will learn how and where to register the trailer with the traffic police.
Sometimes, to solve the problem of lack of space in the trunk, the best option is to do. Even if the cargo you need to transport is not heavy, its dimensions may become an obstacle to normal placement in the trunk of your car. It is clear that there are different types of cars, and there are enough models with large and spacious luggage compartments, but now we are taking into account middle-class passenger cars, the percentage of which is the highest on our roads. For one-time transportation of such voluminous luggage around the city and beyond, you can use the services of a cargo taxi. If we are talking about multiple transportations, using a taxi may not be an effective way to solve the capacity problem. One possible way out of this situation would be to use a trailer. There are two ways: buy a ready-made trailer or make DIY trailer for a car with your own hands. The first option saves you time both on production and on subsequent paperwork. And the second is money and time to find a trailer that matches your car model. We will consider the second option.
In order to make a trailer for a car with your own hands, we will need certain tools and materials, the availability of which it is advisable to take care of in advance.
Necessary materials and components for a homemade trailer
The frame is the basis of the trailer; it is its strength and rigidity that determines the durability of the trailer as a whole. For greater reliability, it is recommended to use a welded connection of elements. You should start by determining the dimensions of the frame - length and width. The size is determined by the outer edges of the frame elements. To determine the full width of the future frame, it is necessary to add 2 wall thicknesses to the distance between the inner edges of the side walls. If the frame is located directly between the wheels, and not above them, then you also need to take into account the gaps between the tire and the bead.
After determining the dimensions, the frame is tried on. The metal profile is laid out on a flat surface, maintaining perpendicularity between the elements. The frame elements are combined with clamps. At this stage, the shape of the frame is controlled; for this, you need to measure two diagonals of the resulting rectangle with a tape measure. The obtained values must coincide; in extreme cases, a size deviation of 2-5% is allowed. It is advisable to provide a stiffening rib in the design; a rectangle or square itself is a rather unstable structure under load.
If other trailers are used, it is better to choose a tow ball of the same size as theirs.
When performing this element of the trailer, you need to remember that the shorter the length of the connecting part, the faster the trailer will respond to the movement of the car. This means that even with a slight lateral movement of the drive wheels, the trailer will immediately move sharply behind them. This may result in damage to the cargo in the trailer and its fall. The optimal length is 1.5-2.5 m, depending on the purpose of the trailer. As a material, it is better to choose, as for the frame, steel pipes of square cross-section in the amount of three pieces.
The connection of the pipes to the frame is welded; for greater strength, it is recommended to reinforce it with corners. Before welding, fitting is performed so that the coupling is carried out exactly along the axis of the trailer.
A safety rope or chain is also mounted here. When moving, it should not drag on the ground. If desired, it is possible to install a small folding wheel at the hitch point for easy transportation of the trailer without a car.
Installation of the coupling is possible using bolts or welding. Before finally attaching it to the trailer frame, you need to once again check that the dimensions of the frame pipes and the groove of the gutter itself match. The width of the groove should not exceed the width of the pipe by more than 5 mm.
In the case of welded fastening of the coupling, high strength of the connection is ensured, but if it is damaged, a gas burner will be required for dismantling. The strength of a bolted connection is somewhat less. It is recommended to use bolts of the eighth strength class; less durable ones may not withstand shear forces. Two bolts are enough to connect, more of them will weaken the frame element and coupling due to the holes for the bolts.
There is a rule according to which the axle should be placed at a distance of 35-40% of the entire length of the trailer from the rear. Having measured the distance, you need to indicate the location of the future axis. You can install the axle by placing the frame upside down on the table (assembly from top to bottom). The axis in this case is mounted on a table, on a couple of 4x4 blocks, and the spindles hang freely. At the intended location for installing the axle, the paint is removed from the frame. The distance between the bushings is divided by two and this point on the axis is marked with a marker.
To control, the width of the frame is measured again, divided by two and the resulting distance is set aside from the middle of the axis, and its position is adjusted. After this, you can begin the final installation. The joining of elements is carried out by spot welding along the entire length of the contact. It is better to use a spring-shock absorber suspension, as it provides greater softness, although it has low strength.
Stabilizing jacks
Necessary to ensure a horizontal position of the trailer. The best option for placement is the corners of the frame. The option of installation on only one side of the trailer is possible. From the point of view of lifting force, it is better to use a screw mechanism. It can even be used to change a wheel on a trailer.
The trailer is manufactured according to the design drawing, which must meet the technical requirements provided for by GOST 37.001.220-80, valid in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. It describes standards, if not met, it will be impossible to register a homemade trailer for a passenger car with the state traffic inspectorate, and all the time and money will be wasted.
Device boards
When making side walls, you can use wood boards, metal fragments, plywood panels or polycarbonate; the choice of the type of material depends on the purpose of the device. Due to its low weight and convenient form of processing, wood or plywood is most often used; initially, a flooring made of boards is attached to the base, it must be bolted, and the main box is also bolted to this base. But to add reliability, it is recommended to attach steel corners to the corners of the box.
Equipment and components
For the manufacture of a trailer weighing up to 750 kg, which does not require a driver's license with cat. BE will need the following equipment and components:
- A square pipe or steel channel for the manufacture of a frame and a coupling unit with a vehicle. Its optimal cross-section is 25x50 mm, and the pipes are 40x40 mm. The length is selected depending on the dimensions specified in the drawing.
- Sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. and above, from which the sides of the body will be cut and assembled. The number of sheets is calculated based on the height and length of the sides.
- A thick sheet of plywood, OSB, plastic, polycarbonate or tin for making the bottom. Selected according to the size corresponding to its area.
- Chassis. It is optimal to use the front axle removed from an old SZD (disabled) motorized wheelchair. An eight-leaf spring suspension is also often installed, which is mounted on rubber bushings. In appearance it is similar to the Volga car, but lighter. The springs are attached to the bridge beam with stepladders, and fillets are placed under them.
- The bridge is made of a ∅25 mm pipe, to the ends of which axle shafts are welded. The hubs rotate on them. The axle pipe, axle shaft, fillet and springs are assembled into a single unit, connected with M8 bolts.
- A pair of wheels. They are borrowed from a motorized stroller, in which case they will add minimal weight to the structure, or a VAZ car. The VAZ 2108 rear beam hubs are suitable for their installation.
- Suspension. The best option would be the spring-hydraulic units of the Ural motorcycle due to their low cost and reliability.
- Towing device (towbar) for coupling to the machine.
- Brakes.
- Electrical equipment (turning and parking lights, brake lights and the drive with which they will be connected to the vehicle).
- Awning or material for it (banner fabric, tarpaulin, etc.).
- Fastening devices (corners, brackets, etc.).
- Tools for working with metal (grinder, screwdriver, electric jigsaw, drill, hammer, tape measure).
- Welding machine.
- Manufacturing and assembly of a homemade trailer for a car
The assembly of a passenger trailer occurs in accordance with the drawing and consists of several stages:
- Frame assembly. This part of the product is a load-bearing part, and the durability of the trailer will depend on its strength. To do this, the pipe or profile is cut to size and welded together. The resulting rectangle is checked for accuracy and evenness of the assembly. Additionally, a stiffener is provided, since the rectangular frame is unstable under load.
- Connection point to the vehicle. When making it, you need to keep in mind that the shorter it is, the faster the trailer will respond to vehicle maneuvers. The optimal length of the connecting part will be 1.5-2 m. The same material is used for its manufacture as for the frame. Before starting welding, the correct placement of the parts to be joined is checked so that the coupling is in the middle. To ensure that the connecting part does not break under load, safety cables are mounted and welded at the bottom of the structure.
- Coupling. Serves to attach the connecting part of the trailer to the vehicle. Can be mounted either with bolts or welding. The first method is less reliable, but can be easily dismantled. The welded assembly is durable, but may require a gas torch to remove it. For bolted connections, samples of the eighth strength class are selected.
- Axle assembly. According to general rules, the axle is mounted at a distance of 40% from the rear side of the trailer, that is, it is slightly shifted from the center to the rear. Fastening occurs using a bolted connection, a frame is installed on it, and also connected with bolts.
- Stabilizing jacks are a desirable but not required part of the structure. They ensure the trailer is level when driving. The best option for their placement is in the corners of the frame.
- Flooring on the side walls. It is made of metal, plastic, wood or other material, depending on the cargo that is planned to be transported. It is bolted, after which the sides are mounted on the frame. The corners are reinforced with metal corners.
- Finishing. They did it and the nodes are painted, after which the power connection route for electrical appliances is drawn. Headlights, lanterns and reflectors must be installed. Connection to a single network is made using the towbar socket. If necessary, a homemade trailer is equipped with a braking system.
Purpose and features of a passenger trailer for a car
A passenger trailer for cars is intended for transporting various types of cargo, tourist equipment and small tourist boats, the length of which does not exceed 3.5 m. It consists of a frame, suspension, body, bridge, and is connected to the car with a coupling device. Trailers for passenger cars, manufactured at the factory, do not require additional permits for registration, but are not always suitable for motorists in terms of characteristics or cost.
A homemade trailer for a passenger car is made according to the drawing and adhering to GOST when manufacturing and assembling it yourself. Registration of such a product is much more expensive, as it requires additional permits for operation. Moreover, all manufacturing costs, taking into account registration costs, will be lower than purchasing a new one. It should be taken into account that a homemade trailer is not inferior in quality to a factory trailer, since the manufacturing process is controlled by its owner.
Register a trailer with the traffic police
To register a trailer with the traffic police, it is necessary to carry out an examination of the trailer. This is what the All-Russian Society of Automobile Enthusiasts (VOA) does. Each region has its own. Here are the addresses of SAI branches known to me: 1. St. Petersburg. st. Zhukovsky, 55 tel. 273-47-30 VOA Alexey Pavlovich,
2. Perm All-Russian Society of Motorists, tel. 12-83-14 and 12-69-65,
3. Moscow State Scientific Center of the Russian Federation Federal State Unitary Enterprise NAMI tel. 456-32-31 Fedorov Artyom.
To pass the examination, the trailer must comply with the following GOST.
TRAILERS FOR PASSENGER VEHICLES
Parameters, dimensions and general technical requirements
OST 37.001. 220-80
This standard applies to all types of trailers intended for towing by cars and minibuses on the roads of the general USSR network. The standard does not apply to trailers, technical specifications for which the design was approved before the introduction of this standard. The main terms used in the standard and their definitions are given in the reference appendix.
PARAMETERS AND DIMENSIONS
1.1. The total design weight of the trailer must not exceed that permitted by the manufacturer of the towing vehicle, must not exceed the curb weight of the towing vehicle, and must not exceed 1800 kg.
1.2. The total structural weight of an unbraked trailer must not exceed that permitted by the manufacturer of the towing vehicle and must not be more than half the curb weight of the towing vehicle.
1.3. The vertical static load in the center of the ball joint of the coupling device for any weight state of the trailer must correspond to the value permitted by the manufacturer of the towing vehicle, but must not be less than 240 N (25 kgf) and more than 980 N (100 kgf).
1.4. The length of the trailer should not be more than 1.5 times the length of the main towing vehicle or more than 8 m.
1.5. The width of the trailer must not exceed the width of the main towing vehicle by more than 200 mm on each side and must not be more than 2.3 m.
1.6. The height of the trailer should not be more than 1.8 times the trailer track width or more than 3 m.
1.7. The center of gravity of a loaded trailer must be located in such a way that the ratio of the height of the center of gravity to the track of the trailer wheels is no more than 0.725.
1.8. The ground clearance of the trailer should not be less than the ground clearance of the main towing vehicle.
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS
2.1. General requirements
2.1.1. Trailers must be single-axle, but a tandem axle may be used.
2.1 2 A trailer with a horizontal inner floor, installed on a horizontal surface, must have a load of no more than 55% of its total weight on the tire(s) of one side.
2 1.3. The design of the trailer must be designed for movement as part of a road train of the full structural mass at the maximum speed permitted by the manufacturers of the traction vehicles.
2.1.4. The design and dimensions of the trailer drawbar (frame) must ensure the possibility of its deflection relative to the coupling ball installed on the vehicle at the angles specified by OST 37.001.096-77.
2.1.5. Trailers must be equipped with two non-removable safety chains (cables), which in the event of an emergency breakage (breakage) of the towbar should not allow the drawbar to touch the road surface, while ensuring control of the trailer.
2.1.6. Trailers must have two wheel chocks (“shoes”).
2.1.7. Trailers must have space for a jack.
2.1.8. The control for the parking brake system of trailers must be removable and located on the right side in the front of the drawbar (frame).
2.1.9. Trailers must be equipped with wheel protective devices (fenders, mudguards) if body parts do not perform the functions of this device.
2.1.10. The materials used for the manufacture of trailers must have resistance to fire from exposure to water, fuel and oils no lower than the resistance of materials of parts and assemblies for similar purposes of the main traction vehicle.
2.1.11. Painting of trailers and control of the appearance of the coating in accordance with GOST 7593-80.
2.1.12. The trailer must have a climatic design in accordance with GOST 15150-69, corresponding to the climatic design of the main traction vehicle, and must be designed for storage conditions in open areas.
2.1.13. The service life of the trailer in accordance with its purpose and operating conditions is regulated by regulatory and technical documentation approved in the prescribed manner.
2.2. Requirements for systems, components and assemblies
2.2.1. Trailer brake systems must comply with the requirements of OST 37.001.016 70.
2.2.2. The locking device for coupling with a traction vehicle must comply with the requirements of OST 37.001.096-77.
2.2.3. Electrical equipment, external lighting and signaling devices must comply with the requirements of GOST 3940-71. GOST 8769-75, GOST 10984-74 and GOST 20961-75.
2.2.4. Trailers must have brackets (or space) for attaching a license plate in accordance with GOST 3207-77.
2.2.5. To connect to the vehicle's electrical system, the trailer must have a plug in accordance with GOST 9209-76 with a connecting cable.
2.2.6. Trailers must have support legs that ensure the stability of the trailer when uncoupled and do not impair the cross-country ability of the road train.
When the vertical static load from the trailer locking device is more than 390 N (40 kgf), the front support leg must be equipped with a lifting-lowering mechanism that ensures installation of the locking device in the position required for coupling (uncoupling). When the mechanism is manually driven, the force on the handle should not exceed 118N (12 kgf).
COMPLETENESS
3.1. Trailers equipped with tires that are not unified with the main traction vehicle must have a spare wheel and a device for securing it.
3.2. Trailers must be supplied with the necessary tools and accessories if the set of tools and accessories of the main towing vehicle is insufficient to service the trailer.
MARKING
4.1. Trailers must have a nameplate and markings in accordance with industry regulations and technical documentation.
4.2. Trailers must have an additional sign near the locking device in accordance with GOST 12971-67 indicating the total structural weight of the trailer; the maximum static load on the coupling ball.
Terms and definitions adopted in this standard TermDefinition Main traction vehicleAccording to GOST 3163-76 Twin axleTwo parallel axles of the trailer, the distance between which does not exceed 1 m.
If your trailer meets these requirements, passes an examination, and has checks, certificates, and a copy of the welder’s certificate, you will not have any problems registering with the traffic police.
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Source
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voditelauto.ru
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