We install railings on a wooden staircase. How and with what help to fasten stair balusters? How to attach wooden balusters to stairs

A mandatory element of houses and cottages that have a second floor is a staircase. Adherents of environmentally friendly materials prefer to build wooden structures in their premises. Installing balusters on a wooden staircase with your own hands requires preparation and careful execution of all stages of the work. This article describes several methods for installing additional protection elements for stairs.

Wooden staircase

To ensure the safety of movement on wooden stairs, construction standards require the installation of balusters and handrails. Balusters are rack-mounted fences that rest on steps or come to the same level at the top, where they are connected by railings.

There are several types of racks:

• Flat.
• Round or square without decorative elements.
• Figured, cut on machines according to a template.
• Carved. They are the most complex, since their central part is made of decorative cutting. Often such wooden balusters are produced as handmade products.

Each post has a rectangular base that rests on the stairs. It is often longer than the height of the fence requires, but thanks to this you can adjust the length of each element. If the balusters rest on, their base is cut at the angle at which the flight of stairs is located.

The central part is often made taking into account decorative design. This is the most beautiful part as it is decorated with simple or sculptured carved patterns.

The upper part of the wooden baluster provides support for the railing. Since the railing is angled, the support is cut at the same angle as the entire staircase structure.

Arrangement of a flight of stairs

Material for making stands

There is a wide variety of materials from which balusters are made:

• Concrete and gypsum. Such racks are used when decorating external stairs, as well as cornices. They are cast in molds using a reinforcement frame, and after removal they can be additionally polished and treated with special compounds.
• Stone. They are the most durable. Artificial stone is made by casting; natural balusters are carved from stone.
• Metal balusters. They are made by forging, welding or casting. There are straight and volumetric models. Installation of metal balusters will be in harmony with wooden flights of stairs if the color scheme is chosen correctly.
• Polyurethane. Their price is lower than other options. They are lightweight, and their reliability is guaranteed by the presence of a metal rod.
• Wooden balusters. Structures of both flat and volumetric shapes are made from natural wood.

Requirements for installing balusters and handrails

To ensure that using the stairs is not fraught with difficulties and those passing along them are not in danger, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements:

• The height of the fence should be about one meter (or 90 cm). This is enough to ensure safe movement around the structure. Thanks to this height, it will be convenient to lean on the railing when going up the steps.
• If the flight of stairs is adjacent to a wall, for ease of movement it is necessary to install railings at a distance of 5-7 cm from the surface of the wall.
• The racks should be located at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. If there are kids in the house, the optimal value will be 10 cm. If, by placing one baluster per step, it is not possible to achieve the required distance, you need to install two racks.
• The railings must withstand a lateral load of 100-120 kg.
• If not only adults, but also children live in the house, you can install another railing in the middle of the fence, which will be easy for children to lean on.
• The balusters should be fastened in two places: at the bottom to the steps and at the top to the handrails.
• Handrails should be smooth. The possibility of introducing a splinter into a wooden product must be excluded.

Installation of balusters

Balusters in a flight of stairs

A row of balusters is located on one or two edges of the flight of stairs as protection, ensuring safety of movement along the steps. The racks can rest on steps, or they can rest on.

One or two balusters can be installed on the steps. This way the balusters will rest on a horizontal surface. The posts will not need to be cut at an angle, so the preparation process for installation will take less time. However, balusters installed on steps reduce the width of the staircase.

Balusters installed on steps

If you install wooden racks on, you can save the usable width of the steps, but in this case, each baluster will need to be trimmed both at the top and bottom. Both angles of inclination will be equal, since they correspond to the inclination of the flight of stairs. This method is used when the thickness is sufficient.

Installation of racks on studs

There is another method of installation using studs using nuts glued into or steps. Such studs are screwed into the rack in the same way as was written earlier. However, before installing the stand on the step, not only is a hole made for the stud, but the upper part is also expanded to the diameter of the nut. Depending on the depth of expansion, one or two nuts are recessed. They are placed flush with the wood and seated with glue. When it is completely dry and the nuts are securely seated in the step, the hole is filled with glue again and the pin is screwed into the baluster.

If the thickness of the step is small, you can drill a through hole in it and screw in a baluster with a pin, and screw a nut with a large washer on the back side.

Sometimes balusters for a flight of stairs are sold with pins already glued in, so the installation process is significantly speeded up.

On the dowels

Since the main load is carried out on the pedestals, dowels can be used to fasten the balusters. This method is the most commonly used for wood structures.

Dowels are small cylindrical wooden spikes. They can be purchased in stores, or you can make them yourself. The price of such products is low, so they are very affordable. To complete all work, it is necessary to prepare dowels and wood glue. The length of the dowels is about 10-12 cm, and the diameter is 0.8-1.2 cm.

Installing racks on steps involves the following sequence of actions:

1. Preparing all balusters. To do this, a hole is drilled from the bottom in the center of each step with a depth equal to half the length of the dowels and a diameter 0.5 mm larger than the fasteners.
2. The holes in the racks are filled with glue and dowels are inserted into them. Excess glue is removed immediately. It takes about 2-3 hours to dry, so during this time you can start marking the steps themselves.
3. When making markings, you should remember that all points for installing balusters must be on the same line. Otherwise, problems will arise when installing the railings. The distance from the edge of the flight of stairs to the place where the rack is attached should be sufficient to fit it on the step. However, it is worth remembering that making a large indentation significantly reduces the usable area of ​​the stairs.
4. In the places where the points are set on the steps, holes are drilled equal to half the length of the dowels and with a diameter 0.5 mm larger.
5. Glue is poured into these holes. It also lubricates the end of the rack. It is then inserted into the hole. To prevent the baluster from tilting while the glue dries, it is fixed and aligned to the building level. It also takes 2-3 hours for the glue to dry.

Installation of balusters on dowels

If the installation of racks is carried out on, the first stage of work should be trimming all balusters at the angle of the flight of stairs. To check the correctness of the cut, you need to place the stand against the bowstring and make sure that it is vertical and strictly level.

When installing the racks, it is possible to place them at a greater or lesser distance than the width of the steps. When drilling holes in the balusters and bowstrings themselves, it is worth remembering that they should not be made perpendicular to the cut, but strictly vertically. You also need to correctly calculate the depth of the holes.

After all the balusters are securely in place in the flight of stairs, you can begin preparing them for the installation of railings.

For self-tapping screws

The easiest way to fasten is to use self-tapping screws. This method can be done even by people who have no carpentry skills. In addition, there is no need to wait for the wood glue to dry before proceeding to the next stages of work. To install balusters, long self-tapping screws are used - 8-10 cm. It is desirable that they are made of stainless steel.

Installation of racks with self-tapping screws

Installation of balusters is carried out in the following way:

1. A slightly smaller hole is drilled in the baluster where the self-tapping screw is screwed in. This is necessary in order to avoid cracking of the wood at the installation site and thereby avoid weakening the strength of the fasteners.
2. In order for the self-tapping screw, driven into the material at an angle, to be completely recessed in the wood, a small recess of the diameter of the head and a small depth is made in place of the head.
3. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into all balusters at an angle of 45°. At first, they are not driven in completely, but only so that their tip barely protrudes outward at the bottom of the rack.
4. In order for all the balusters to be placed in one row, it is necessary to make markings. To do this, you can take a fishing line or a thin cord and stretch it along the flight of stairs.
5. Then comes the installation of balusters. To do this, each rack is placed in its place and the self-tapping screw is screwed in completely, firmly fixing it to the step. The head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood. It is very important at this moment to ensure that all balusters are installed level.
6. Choppers selected by color are inserted into the recesses formed in place of the screwed screws. Then they are sanded flush with the surface of the baluster and varnished along with the entire structure. Another option for filling the hole is to use wood putty or wax.
7. After placing all the balusters on the same line and level, they begin to install the railings.

Connection of balusters and railings

After installing all the racks, the final stage of working with a wooden staircase is installing a handrail or railing. These items can be installed in the following ways:

• Dowels.
• Threaded rods.
• Self-tapping screws.

Balusters prepared for installation of railings

Dowels

The use of dowels is due to the fact that the main load is not placed on the railing; it falls on the supporting posts. To do this, a hole for dowels is drilled in each rack. The same work is done on the railings. So that later it can be securely fastened, holes are made according to well-done markings. The dowels are inserted into the holes filled with glue, after which the handrails are put on them. Then the entire structure should be left for several hours until the glue dries completely.

Threaded rods

When attaching the handrail in this way, it is necessary to accurately determine the center of the baluster and the center of the railing. First, holes are made for the studs in the racks. For additional secure fastening, glue is poured into the holes and then the fasteners are screwed into the racks.

After the glue has completely dried, you need to attach the railing to the posts so that the stud attachment points appear on the back of the railing. This way you can clearly identify the places where holes need to be made. Before attaching the railings to the posts, you need to coat all the holes with glue.

Self-tapping screws

Installation of handrails with self-tapping screws

When installing railings with self-tapping screws, it is very important to choose the correct fastening length. If you use excessively long self-tapping screws, when fully tightened, the tips may protrude onto the outer surface of the railing, which is a very bad indicator.

Making markings for cutting the top of the racks

Installation of a wooden balustrade

A balustrade is a fencing for stairs, balconies, terraces, and various elevations. It consists of figured columns, which in their upper part are connected by a handrail or railing. On stairs, such fences are located between floors, at the beginning or at the end of a flight of stairs. If we talk about balconies and terraces, then in such places this structure, starting from the cabinets and ending with all the racks, is located on the same line. This greatly simplifies the installation process, since there is no need to cut the top of the balusters at an angle.

The height of the balustrade, like the railing, should be about 90cm, the distance between the posts 10-20cm.

Balustrade

It is also important to determine the location of all the pedestals (support pillars) in the flight of stairs. They are approximately twice as thick as the posts (balusters). They can be mounted on studs or dowels. The length of the fastening element should be about 10 cm.

If the pillars rest not on a wooden surface, but on concrete, then it is necessary to make embedded parts into which a bolt-screw is subsequently welded. In order to place a cabinet on this bolt-screw, a hole of the appropriate diameter and length is drilled in it and then the pole is simply screwed onto the fastener.

If the floor surface is made of plank material, fastening the pillars is carried out in the same way as installing balusters on the wooden surface of steps. Often in wooden structures, the bottom post is placed on the last step and pressed against the riser.

Upon completion of the installation of the cabinets, you need to clearly mark the location of the racks. They should all be on the same line. You also need to correctly determine the cutting line of the railings so that they fit correctly with the cabinets.

One way to fit the handrail onto all the balusters is to make a groove along the entire length of the handrail to a depth of about 8 mm. The width of the sample corresponds to the width of the racks. This can be done using a machine.

To securely install the railings, you can fasten a thin strip on top of all the posts using self-tapping screws. Railings are laid on top of it and also fixed with self-tapping screws. It is worth remembering that their length should not be long so that they do not protrude through the railing. Additionally, the handrails must be secured to the support posts. Using glue it will be possible to further strengthen the entire structure.

Having completed all the work on installing a wooden balustrade, you can secure your stay at height and give a solid appearance to your staircase, terrace or balcony.

Stairs consist of many parts and necessary elements that make the overall structure safe, reliable and convenient. Despite the apparent complexity, such objects can be made with your own hands. The installation of each part must be approached with all responsibility so that the result does not cause disappointment. Today we will talk about how to properly attach stair balusters.

What it is?

Before you take a closer look at the methods for installing stair balusters, you need to understand what they are.

Balusters are very important components of stairs, which are installed along their entire perimeter between the base and the railings. The main task of these parts is to prevent a person from falling.

Fencing

Most often, stairs are installed in private houses. These structures not only allow residents to move freely to the upper/lower floors of the building, but also decorate the environment as a whole.

Such structures consist of several important elements, without which it may be unsafe to use them. So, stair railings are necessary. These details make the designs more convenient to use.

The main functions of stair railings are:

• Safety. This parameter should be put in first place, since fences make it possible to safely move along the staircase structure. Safety is especially important if we are talking about an intricate spiral or very steep staircase.
• Support. Thanks to the railings, going down and up the stairs is much easier - balance is maintained and the load is distributed correctly.
• Decor. These details give the staircase a more organic and complete look. In some designs, fences are accent details and attract the main attention.

According to the installation method, the following types of stair railings are distinguished:

• Handrails. These elements are installed on the wall like a straight pipe or profile using reliable fasteners.
• Railings consisting of balusters and posts. These types of fencing are classic. They consist of vertical slats, horizontal framing and the railings themselves.

Requirements

Stair railings must meet a number of specific requirements. First of all, any structures that rise above 60 cm must be fenced. This applies to terraces, balconies, galleries, and external stairs with steps and ramps. In addition, fences should complement the boundaries of the internal staircase opening.

Structures that rise to a level of more than 1.8 m must be fenced with railings from 1.07 m.

If the width of the stairs is less than 110 cm, then the railings can only be installed on one side. If this indicator is higher, then the railings must be installed on both sides.

The height of the railings of internal stairs must be at least 90 cm. Spiral and curved stairs must also be equipped with railings on both sides. Handrails are not installed on internal structures that have only two steps, or on external staircases with three steps. One of the stair handrails must be continuous.

The handrail should not protrude beyond the fence by more than 30 cm. It must be attached so that it is at a distance of 4 cm (minimum) from the wall. There should be no sharp corners or protrusions on stair railings.

The structure must be treated with a fire-resistant agent. If small children live at home, the stairs are supplemented with a second handrail. This element is installed much lower. A balustrade should be installed along the entire staircase.

The railings should not have crossbars for the safety of children. Also, to ensure children's safety, it is necessary to install vertical fences to a height of up to 1.2 m. If people with mental disabilities live in the house, then this parameter should be increased to 1.8 m.

Railings should not restrict the free space on the stairs. The largest value by which the width of the structure can be reduced is 10 cm. The fastening points of the handrails should not be at a distance of more than 1.2 m. The fasteners of the railings should go 3 cm deep into the stairs. Glass should not be used to fill the stair railings.

Types

Staircase designs are different. It is their structure that directly determines which type of fences are installed.

Let's look at them in more detail:

• For spine stairs. Such fencing is distinguished by its original shape. In such details, as a rule, there are a large number of exquisite curves. In the case of metal structures, additional decorative elements are often installed on the fences using welding.
• For marching stairs. Such designs are distinguished by their discreet appearance - they have straight and long flights. Fences can be installed both on the steps of such stairs and on nearby walls. The main advantage of such designs is that they can be given any look, turning to any stylistic direction.
• For spiral staircases. Such staircases are rightfully recognized as the most spectacular and rich. In these designs, the railing should be a continuous spiral. It is quite difficult to manufacture such parts - for this you need not only to have the appropriate knowledge, but also special tools.

Device

Stair railings consist of the following components:

• balusters and supports;
• handrails;
• filling.

Balusters are racks in a vertical position, which are attached at the bottom to the steps, bowstring or stringer. The upper edge of these parts acts as the basis for the subsequent installation of the railings themselves. The strength, durability and reliability of the staircase directly depend on the quality characteristics of the balusters, so their selection and installation must be approached thoroughly.

The shape and size of handrails are developed taking into account their main functions. A person most often comes into contact with these elements while moving up the stairs. For this reason, handrails must have a perfectly smooth and pleasant-to-touch surface without any kind of sharp points.

The role of filling the railings is usually played by solid or lattice-type elements. They are fixed between the balusters to make the fences safer. In addition, the filling often serves as a decorative addition to the structure.

Varieties

Stair balusters are made from different materials. The performance characteristics of these parts depend on this parameter. Let's take a closer look at what types of balusters exist and what features they have.

Wooden

Wooden balusters are very common. They can be made from different types of wood. Such details look especially interesting and harmonious if complemented with carved ornaments - with such decorations, classic interiors look even more presentable and more expensive. The most common wood species used in the production of balusters are beech, birch, oak, pine and many others.

The most affordable ones are pine and birch elements. Despite their low cost, they look attractive and do not betray their cheapness in any way. However, pine itself does not like dampness and moisture, so it can only be installed in dry rooms.

Balusters made of oak or beech are much more expensive. These elements look expensive and aristocratic. Despite their apparent insignificance, oak or beech balusters can decorate the environment, adding a luxurious touch to it.

Wooden balusters have the following disadvantages:

• options made from soft wood are susceptible to damage;
• such parts must be treated with special protective compounds so that they last as long as possible and do not lose their original attractiveness;
• wooden balusters do not tolerate temperature changes and high air humidity;
• These elements do not look organic in all combinations (for example, they will not look good with metal steps).

Such elements can take the following forms:

• Cylindrical. These are simple wooden pillars. They can be supplemented with carvings. The diameter of the cylindrical elements may vary.
• Flat. Flat stair balusters have a discreet appearance. In cross-section, such elements have the shape of a narrow rectangle or ellipse.
• Sculpturally carved. These types of balusters can easily be called the most attractive and original. They are usually made by hand from expensive wood species, so they themselves are quite expensive.

Stone

Stone balusters look good and expensive. Marble is most often used in the manufacture of these parts. It boasts excellent strength characteristics, long service life, solid appearance and massiveness. Stone structures are more wear-resistant than wooden ones, since they are not afraid of temperature changes, high humidity, or mechanical damage.

However, stone balusters are not chosen so often because they are expensive. In addition, some users find this material too cumbersome.

Stone balusters are not suitable for all interior styles, so their selection should be approached very carefully.

Glass

Glass balusters are cast, so you will not see seams on them. Beautiful crystal glass models can decorate not only the staircase itself, but the entire interior as a whole. Often such details are complemented with lighting - the result is fabulous designs that attract admiring glances.

Of course, according to safety regulations, it is better not to handle such elements if there are small children living in the house. Even the most durable tempered glass can be accidentally damaged/broken and injured by the fragments.

It is recommended to give preference to balusters made of laminated silicate glass (triplex). Such materials are covered with a special film that prevents the glass from crumbling into small fragments.

As for the color scheme, it can be absolutely anything.

Concrete

Similar details in the Stalinist Empire style are made as follows: concrete mixed with gypsum or pure gypsum is added to special molds on a wire frame. It is possible to make a mold for balusters with your own hands using a little ingenuity.

Concrete balusters will not look harmonious in every interior. For example, in houses made in a modern style, such details will not look good. It is better to install them on external structures, gazebos or terraces in suburban/dacha areas. However, you need to take into account a significant disadvantage of concrete balusters - they are not durable. Structures made of concrete and gypsum can collapse due to temperature fluctuations, precipitation and external influences.

Metal

Railings for stairs are most often made of metal.

The popularity of such products is due to their positive qualities:

• they are not subject to mechanical damage and deformation;
• have a long service life;
• do not lose their visual appeal for many years;
• can be made in different directions and can be either simple or very effective, decorated with patterned lines and weaves.

Aluminum and stainless steel

These products have a lot in common. This applies not only to their design, but also to their performance characteristics. Aluminum and steel balusters are not subject to corrosion and also have a perfectly smooth texture.

Models made of aluminum and stainless steel can be nickel-plated, chrome-plated or gold-plated. The choice of a suitable product depends only on the preferences of the owners.

Forged

Forged balusters are rightfully recognized as the most beautiful. They have a very original and sophisticated appearance, demonstrating the financial status of the owners and their excellent taste. To create such elements, a pliable material is used that can be easily processed and molded.

Forged balusters can be made in two ways: cold and hot forging.

Cold forging is made from blanks and is more often used for the manufacture of simple fences. In this way, you can bend metal rods into unusual curls.

Hot forging requires more time and effort - with this method of manufacturing balusters, standard standard solutions are not used, since this is meticulous manual work, which can only be carried out in a special workshop. Thanks to hot forging, truly unique products are obtained in the form of leaves, flowers, curls and other openwork elements.

Forged balusters look good in combination with other materials. For example, this could be wooden railings. In a single tandem, such products look stylish and are suitable for both classical and gothic ensembles.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane balusters are lightweight. Such parts are available in a variety of forms and are quite inexpensive. These types of staircase parts are made from high-density polymers - such materials are not afraid of mechanical damage and heavy loads.

Polyurethane balusters consist of a special shell and a support - a metal rod. It is the last element that gives the entire product weight, making it more reliable and stable.

Many consumers choose these types of balusters because they can imitate almost any natural material.

How to select an element?

The choice of balusters depends on what material is present at the base of the staircase structure itself. Thus, for wooden products it is recommended to purchase balusters from a similar material of the same type. In this case, you need to make sure that their shades match. If you want to build a more original structure, you can create an effective combination with wood of completely different tones.

As for metal balusters, they can be used when decorating a spiral staircase. They will look disharmonious with wooden bases.

Please note that hand-made or forged models can cost a pretty penny, but with their help the staircase will take on a truly expensive and impressive look.

Concrete parts should not be purchased for interiors in more modern or delicate stylistic directions. You should always be careful with such balusters, as they can disrupt the harmony of the environment by breaking out of it. Additionally, concrete options will not last long, especially if they are located outside the home.

Glass structures are considered universal. They are worth choosing if the furnishings in your home are made in a modern and high-tech style. Such items are not always suitable for a gothic, retro or classic ensemble.

Pay attention to the quality of the balusters before purchasing them. There should be no scratches, chips, or sharp edges/particles on such parts. You should refuse to purchase damaged items.

Optimal distance

When installing railing posts, you need to correctly make markings, as well as identify the correct distance between individual elements.

To do this you need to follow these simple rules:

• the step between balusters should not be less than 15 cm;
• if there are children in the home, it is also important to take this into account when fixing the balusters - in this case, it is better to make the space between them even smaller;
• the ideal height of the posts for fixing the railings should be 80-100 cm;
• balusters must be created from the same raw materials, suitable for the material of the stairs;
• The posts need to be fastened at 2 points - at the top and bottom.

The optimal step between supports is 15 cm. If this figure is larger, it may increase the risk of injury. If you cannot comply with this requirement, it is permissible to install 2 racks on one step at once.

Fastening methods

It is permissible to place supports at the edges of steps or on a string. So, if the width of the steps allows, it is permissible to install two elements on them at once. The quality of the structure as a whole will depend on how securely and firmly the balusters are installed. Today there are several main ways to secure these parts. Let's get to know them.

Hairpins

Installation of posts using a threaded rod on a bowstring is used in situations where the parts are located clearly perpendicular. These components are not used to attach balusters to the handrail.

To make a threaded rod, you will need screws with a head with six edges (such parts are called “wood grouse”). These fasteners are fixed in pre-drilled holes at the bottom of the posts. The pin and hole must be secured with glue. These types of fasteners are well suited for fixing wooden balusters.

Self-tapping screws

Using self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws, it is possible to attach balusters to the floor. These fasteners can be used to install both wood and iron objects.

The most popular approaches are:

• baluster;
• use of a support plate;
• use of direct fixation.

These methods have a lot in common. A stronger connection to the steps can be achieved using plates that are attached with 4 screws. It is also possible to attach balusters to the side railings using self-tapping screws.

If the step is equipped with a riser, then it is convenient to bring the fasteners to the lower part. If the risers are removable, then the areas with joints will need to be properly hidden.

Dowels

Dowels and rods are mainly used in the construction of wood bases. It is important to remember that their diameter should not be more than ¼ of the diameter of the rack, and their length should not be 2 diameters of the baluster itself. In this case, markings should be applied to each element - railings, steps, and pillars. The depth of the hole should be half the diameter of the dowel. When installing fasteners coated with glue, you must start with the steps and then move on to the railings.

Such fasteners can be used when installing balusters on the plane on which the laminate lies.

Installation features

In order to properly fasten balusters with your own hands, it is important to take into account some features of such work.

Let's look at how to properly fix wooden balusters using dowel fastenings as an example:

• First, make markings on the base and make holes that are half the depth of the dowel.
• Coat the fastening areas with glue.
• Install wood dowels into the hole. Next you need to put balusters on them.

If you decide to use a pin for fastening, then the work plan will be different:

• The steel pin must first be sharpened on the side of the cut half at an angle to make it easier to insert into the hole.
• You need to make a hole in the step with a diameter 2 mm smaller than the stud itself. Then you need to carefully screw it all the way, using a gas wrench.
• Next, the post is drilled in the center of the section and screwed onto the protruding part of the thread of the stud.
• If the upper oblique cut of the pillar does not coincide with the specified one, then it is further tightened using a gas wrench.

To strengthen the balusters on the base with screws, they mainly use fasteners with a diameter of 0.5 cm and a length of 4.5.7 cm. Plastic dowels are used under the head of the “capercaillies” and self-tapping screws.

So, a self-tapping screw is screwed into the step located below (through and through). The support post is screwed onto the prominent thread in the center of the end, turning by hand until it stops.

At the same time, take into account some nuances:

• Maintain the optimal spacing between balusters (15 cm). It is important to comply with this requirement if there are small children in the home.
• Maintain a suitable height for the supports – 80-100 cm.
• Attach each support at a couple of points - at the top and bottom.
• The thickness and cross-sectional area of ​​the baluster do not affect the safety and strength of the construction, since these components are not load-bearing.

Decorative plugs

Places where screwed fasteners are visible have a negative impact on the aesthetics of the balusters. To solve this problem, you can use special decorative plugs. Wooden plugs are expensive, so it is better to turn to inexpensive plastic options if the structure and design of the staircase allows it.

Since plastic is not painted, owners may be faced with the problem of choosing the appropriate shade of plugs from the presented palette.

First, let's figure out what it is balusters and why they are needed. So, balusters are special fences that are located vertically to the railing, floor or stair steps (if the staircase is fenced with balusters). The method of fastening balusters directly depends on the material from which such balusters are made. The most common are wooden and metal balusters. Therefore, today we will look at these mounting options in more detail. In addition, they can be used not only for fastening wooden and metal balusters, but also for balusters made of other materials.

The simplest way to attach wooden balusters to the floor is to place them in pre-prepared special places. For example, when pouring concrete on a floor, you can immediately install balusters in the right place and fill them with concrete mixture. It would be good if the balusters were additionally secured to the beams using metal pins. Balusters can be attached to a wooden base using special fastening devices called "grouse". To ensure greater structural strength, it is recommended to lubricate the surfaces to be joined with assembly adhesive before screwing.

If the base is cement or concrete, then it is recommended to replace the pins with stronger impact dowels, which were designed specifically for such cases. It should also be taken into account that some types of balusters need to be fastened not only vertically, but also horizontally, in order to ensure a more durable, reliable and safe fastening.

As for metal balusters, ideally, when manufacturing them, you need to make sure in advance that they are equipped with special places for fastening using self-tapping screws and dowels. Factory balusters, as a rule, are already equipped with such elements. Moreover, usually ready-made balusters are sold in stores complete with all the necessary fastening materials.

In some cases, metal balusters are mounted on additional supporting elements. Also today you can purchase special decorative overlays for balusters, which hide the junction of the balusters and the floor, and give the product a finished and beautiful appearance. Such overlays have their own fastening elements that secure them to the floor surface. To ensure optimal strength of the finished structure, the distance between balusters should not exceed 150 mm.

When assembling the fencing for the stairs, you need to decide how to install balusters, racks, and support posts. Everything is not so simple, because the installation of balusters depends on the type of staircase, the material from which the staircase is made and the railings themselves. At the same time, aesthetic preferences are also taken into account.

Number of balusters and support posts

First of all, you need to decide whether there will be one baluster on the step or two. Both options are acceptable. The second point: you need to decide where and with what frequency the support pillars will be placed. There are several options:

A large number of pillars on the stairs is necessary if the balusters are thin or the filling is not vertical, but longitudinal “threads” that do not carry the load, but perform protective and/or decorative functions.

Marking space for posts and balusters

In any case, all pillars and balusters on the span must be on the same straight line. Moreover, if the radius/size of the balusters/support pillars is different, their centers are aligned on the same line. After installing all the balusters and posts, if you look along the line, they should all be in the same plane.

The first stage of installation of railings is marking the installation locations of pillars and balusters

At what distance from the edge of the step should the balusters be placed?

On average, the center of the baluster is installed at a distance of 6-10 cm from the edge, but it is possible at the very edge. Choose as you like. But you need to choose this distance in order to decide on the place where you will need to make holes for installing balusters.

There is an algorithm to determine the distance. It is usually assumed that the stair post or baluster should be located at a distance of 2-5 cm from the side edge of the step. Divide the size of the post or baluster by two, add the selected distance to the edge and get the required value.

Let's give an example of calculating the installation location of a baluster. Let them have a square section at the bottom, 80*80 mm. They should be spaced 3 cm from the edge of the step. Total we get: 8 cm/2 + 3 cm = 7 cm. That is, when marking the place where the balusters are to be attached on the stairs, you will need to set aside 7 cm from the edge of the step. We also do this if the balusters are round: diameter 7 cm, from the edge - 3 cm. 7 cm/2 + 3 cm = 6.5 cm. That is, in this case, the hole for installing stair balusters is made at a distance of 6.5 cm from the edge of the step.

Algorithm for installing balusters

The process of marking balusters can be described step by step as follows:

The main task of this stage is to transfer the straight line to the steps as accurately as possible. The second is to choose such a distance between the pillars and balusters that there are no visible differences. If you can’t do everything the same way, you can do it symmetrically - leave larger or smaller distances along the edges or alternate them after one or two. There are no universal solutions, since each staircase is unique, with its own parameters and features.

The order of assembling the railings

In order for the installation of railings on the stairs to take place without surprises, you need to clearly understand the whole process.

The process is then repeated for the second span. The last thing to complete the installation of the railings is the combination of the support posts at the turning point. The specific method depends on the type and material of the handrail, but you need to manage to make this section a transition from one span to another, while being comfortable and not seeming alien.

Fastening wooden balusters and posts

Many will agree that installing railings is more complicated than making the staircase itself: there are too many different components, there are no standard solutions suitable for everyone. This is where the difficulty lies. Wood railings are perhaps the most difficult to install. The material is plastic, but therein lies the problem: an element that is well secured at first can wobble with a decent amplitude after a year or two. Therefore, they approach the fastening of wooden posts and balusters very, very carefully, play it safe, use combined methods, adding glue if possible. This makes the connections tighter.

Not the most elegant installation of wooden balusters on stone or concrete steps, but reliable

In general, a baluster or post is attached either to the step board itself, or to the stringer - it depends on the design of the staircase. Internal stairs on stringers are rarely made today, so we will mainly talk about installing railings to the steps.

Using a bolt (capercaillie) to the step through

There is a simple option - through fastening of balusters and support pillars to the step. The only requirement: the thickness of the step must be decent - more than 40 mm.

In this case, to install a baluster or pillars at a selected point, a through hole is made in the step board through which a bolt with a diameter of at least 8-10 mm is passed (12 and 14 mm is possible, depending on the cross-section of the baluster). The minimum length of wood grouse is 80 mm (the rest can be sawed off). A hole of larger diameter is drilled under the bolt. After installation, it must be recessed so that at least 5 mm remains to the edge of the board. The resulting hole is closed with a decorative overlay (you can choose a plastic one of a suitable color or make it from wood).

A bolt is inserted into the hole, and a hole 2-3 mm smaller in diameter than the diameter of the bolt used is drilled in the center of the baluster. The specific diameter depends on the type of wood: the harder the wood, the smaller the difference between the diameters of the drill and the bolt should be. The depth of the hole is equal to the length of the bolt.

The bolt is screwed in from below, passes through the step, and enters the body of the baluster. It is screwed onto the thread and exposed. Finally tighten from below using a socket wrench of the required diameter. The good thing about this option is that, in theory, the connection can be tightened if you remove the plug and use a wrench to reduce the backlash. But the “tightening” works until the hole in the wood becomes too large from the play. And it (play) will appear sooner or later - from loads that are directed in different directions, from natural processes occurring in the wood. So the connection is not permanent.

On a dowel or threaded rod

If it is impossible to get to the steps from below, there is an option for attaching balusters to dowels (50*10, 60*12, 70*14, 70*16 mm). The dowel is chosen to be large, with a large diameter. The installation of balusters in this case is as follows: a hole is drilled in the step with a depth equal to half the length of the dowel. We drill a second similar hole in the lower part of the baluster. The diameter of the drill is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the dowel.

Epoxy glue is poured into both holes, the dowel is inserted into the hole in the step until it stops, then a baluster is put on it. For greater reliability of such fastening, you can coat the entire lower part of the baluster with glue.

One point: look for dowels from the same wood from which the steps and railings are made. They have the same coefficient of thermal expansion and react equally to shrinkage and increased humidity. This will make the connection more durable. Installing balusters on dowels is a traditional, but not the most reliable method today. Firstly, the dowels can break, and secondly, the connection itself still becomes loose. So in a few years you will have to look for a way to fix the dangling railings.

Instead of a dowel, you can use a threaded rod. The process of installing a baluster is no different. Everything is the same, only you don’t have to fill the hole with glue, although...

For self-tapping screws

The most “collective farm” method, which professionals really dislike, but which is easier to understand and implement, is installing balusters on self-tapping screws. For fastening to the steps, use wood screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of 60 mm. Place two on each side (total, 8 screws on each side).

The simplest and most “wrong” way. And one more thing: a lot of hassle in order to cover unsightly marks

They need to be screwed at an angle of 30-40°, and holes must be pre-drilled for the caps. Install screws, then close the holes with plugs cut from the same wood or cover them with wood putty.

Using Zipbolt (zipbolt)

A relatively new fastening element that can be used to attach balusters to both steps and handrails. It is easy to use, but expensive. If you install the railings with your own hands and “for yourself,” this is a good option. Installing balusters using zipbolts is also good because the connection can subsequently be tightened, eliminating any play that appears.

The zipbolt consists of a threaded rod and a removable gear head. There are two types:

• of two movably connected threaded rods of approximately equal length;
• from one threaded rod (type 13.600).

The option with movably connected pins is good for connecting balusters and railings, railings with support posts. A straight zip bolt is good for hidden connections of perpendicular bars. This is exactly the case for installing balusters on steps, support pillars on the floor, and the ceiling of the second floor. The dimensions of this fastener are substantial - diameter 8 mm, length 96 mm, so it will hold the pole well, and there is no doubt about the reliability of fastening the balusters.

The algorithm itself is similar to mounting on a stud: you need to drill a hole in the step and baluster for installing a threaded stud. The length of the hole in both parts should be equal to the length of the stud, minus the height of the head.

The difference is that to install the head you need a technological hole perpendicular to the main one. It should be slightly larger in size than the diameter of the head, and its center should coincide with the axis of the hole for the pin. After the pin is installed, a removable gear head is inserted into the technological hole. It has special slots along the key. Install the head so that the slots are accessible. Using a 6 mm hex key, which is inserted into these slots, the head is turned until it stops, pulling the baluster towards and fixing the pin.

When installing railing support posts on the floor using a zip bolt, questions may arise regarding the method of fastening. If the floor is wooden, the threaded part is simply screwed in. If the floor is concrete, you can use chemical anchors. If there are metal embedded parts, the bolt can be welded. The last method, by the way, is the most reliable: at least the bolt will no longer be loose.

Dovetail connection

Another way to connect balusters and steps is carpentry. Using a specially shaped groove and tenon - dovetail. This option is possible if you make the balusters yourself or if they have a significant margin in length at the bottom.

Such an installation of balusters is possible if the railing is planned to be made almost from the very edge of the steps. Then trapezoid-shaped holes are cut into the steps from the end, and the same ones are formed on the balusters. The ends of the cuts are lubricated with wood glue or epoxy resin, aligned and fixed.

When fastening with a dovetail, you can also use nails to strengthen the connection between the baluster and the step

With this method of connection, the racks must be fixed in a vertical position for some time - until the glue dries - as they may deviate. To do this, construct a temporary supporting structure, which is disassembled after the glue has hardened.

To make the steps look better from the side, the ends are covered with overhead decorative strips. The planks can be “planted” with glue, nails, screws, and dowels. The choice is absolutely arbitrary, but the most correct and invisible one is dowels. Such installation of balusters is based entirely on the art of carpentry and requires precise adherence to dimensions.

Installation of balusters on a stringer (string)

When installing balusters on a bowstring or stringer, you can use the same methods of installing balusters: on dowels, studs, self-tapping screws, zipbolts. You can even make a dovetail, but you will have to cut it in a different plane, which is no more difficult, and, perhaps, even simpler. For decoration, you can use strips on both sides.

The difference between installing balusters on a string (string) is that the post must be sawed at a certain angle so that they stand strictly vertically. But in a surface cut at an angle, it is difficult to drill a hole that runs along the axis of the element. To avoid problems with this, first drill holes, then cut at the desired angle. A simple trick that makes the job much easier.

There is one specific method designed specifically for a ladder with a bowstring. They make a baluster: a bar that “sits” on the bowstrings thanks to a groove cut in the lower part. The posts are attached to the baluster through and through - with bolts, dowels or self-tapping screws (the worst option). The choice is yours, and then the entire structure is installed on the bowstring. The connection is adhesive; for reliability, you can use bots, screws, and nails. But they are for additional fixation.

There is another method that is usually used only for this type of stairs: the balusters are secured with nails or self-tapping screws, decorative strips are installed on the sides, and the gaps between the balusters are closed with fixing strips. With this method of fixation, you can also additionally use glue - it will not be superfluous.

A few words about increasing reliability

All baluster fastenings - on studs, self-tapping screws, dowels, bolts - become loose over time and play appears. This is an inevitable process. When loaded, the railings wobble a little. At first, the deviation is a fraction of a millimeter, absolutely imperceptible. As you use it, the deviation increases, and the railing at hand already noticeably “walks.” The softer the wood, the faster the play appears. We have to take it down and redo it. In order to delay this moment to the maximum, they use any available additional methods of fixation.

Most often, glue is used as an additional fixing force. You can use any carpentry resin or epoxy resin. There is no point in looking for more expensive ones - these work very well. All joints are coated with glue. You can even lubricate screws/nails with glue. For better adhesion, the places where the glue will be applied are cleaned of dust/debris and wiped to remove greasy deposits.

Installation of metal balusters

Installation of metal balusters is simpler: there are special clamps - thrust bearings, which are screwed into the steps or to the side of the stairs. The baluster, post, and post are then attached to the installed elements. All you need to do is select elements of the appropriate shape/size.

There is one point: most of the fasteners suggest fixing balusters in them using clamping screws. So, screws are not very reliable; such a connection quickly begins to “loose.” Of course, they can be tightened a couple of times, but welding is much more reliable. If the metal thickness allows - from 1 mm or more - it is better to use.

We attach it to the step

Marking the installation locations of metal balusters occurs as described above. First, we choose one rack to stand on a step or two at a time, then we distribute them so that all distances are the same. Heel pads are installed in the designated places. They usually “sit” on 3-4 fasteners. Use self-tapping screws if the steps are wooden or dowels for concrete or brick steps.

Metal balusters/racks are inserted into the installed thrust bearings, positioned strictly vertically, and welded. It is better to “grab” from four sides - to exclude the possibility of deviation in any direction. This completes the installation of metal balusters (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated steel). Next you just need to install the handrail, which is also not particularly difficult.

If the wall thickness of the tube of prefabricated metal railings is too small for welding, it is not possible to select the appropriate welding mode; the tubes have to be secured to the heel supports using bolts. We still don’t recommend squeezing. Such a connection really gets loose quickly. You can drill through holes in the pipes and screw bolts of a suitable diameter into them.

Another option for installing rod balusters: weld a pin to the bottom and screw it into the step. If desired, you can glue a nut into the hole in the step.

Lateral (end) fastening of balusters and posts

Attaching the racks to the steps is the traditional installation method, but there is another way: attaching them to the sidewall. In this way, you can attach any type of railing: wood, metal, glass. For metal and glass, special fasteners are required - clamps that are attached to the wall, and themselves have a groove and a system for fixing the racks for the stairs. Wooden posts and balusters are fastened through with zip bolts or studs/screws, hiding the heads under decorative covers.

With end-mounted racks, stairs are usually made with support pillars installed at a certain distance. Between the pillars, a filling is installed that is not connected to the base of the staircase, but only to the support posts. Of course, this is not a rule, but this is exactly the look that most stairs have with similar fastening of balusters and support pillars.

The side mounting method is suitable for any stairs with a closed sidewall. Naturally, the sidewall material must have sufficient load-bearing capacity. The very method of attaching the staircase racks looks somewhat unusual, which adds decorativeness.

Forged railing for stairs with side fastening. The fasteners are made immediately “built-in” into the railings Non-standard approach Lateral fastening of glass railings - with special clamps

Typically, two clamps are used for each rack, which are placed at a distance of 5-10 cm from one another. When marking, you can also use a stretched thread, guide or laser level. The location is chosen mainly in the center of one of the steps. The number of racks is selected based on the load-bearing capacity of the base to which they will be screwed. For wood, the normal step is 50-80 cm, for brick, concrete, etc. Longer distances can also be done.

Balusters are parts of stair railings. Stair railings are attached to them.

The most common are wooden balusters. They are most often used in the construction of purely wooden stairs and less often in combination with stairs made from other materials.

Also, the materials for their manufacture can be:

1. Concrete or stone.
2. Metal.
3. Plastic.

The cross-sectional shape of balusters can be very diverse:

1. Round.
2. Square.
3. Multifaceted.

Round products made on lathes. Hardwoods are usually used for these purposes:

1. Birch.

Balusters made from wood are the most decorative in comparison with similar products made from other materials.

Attaching to the steps of a flight of stairs

Before you think How to attach balusters to steps and railings, it is necessary to decide the compositional component of the overall design of the staircase. There are two options here. First option: one step - one baluster. Second option: two balusters per step.

Depending on this, the thickness of the products is selected. Their paired placement means less thickness.

For safe use of the stairs, the distance between the balusters should not be more than 150 mm. In a pair version, the distance between pairs may differ from the distance within the pairs.

To secure the baluster to the step, you really need to worry about this at the stage of its manufacture. A cylindrical pin is machined in its lower part sufficient thickness and length 20−50mm.

A recess of the same diameter as the pin on the baluster is drilled into the step. The pin is lubricated with glue and driven into the hole on the step. The connection must be very tight. The ideal option: the pin is driven into the hole by hitting the top of the baluster with a heavy hammer. So that the glue, when compressed, can come out of the recess and allow the product to sit in place, a special through groove should be made along the pin, along which excess glue will come out.

For precise drilling of holes For recesses, it is most reliable to use a special template. It can be made from a piece of thick plywood. The right hole is drilled in it in the right place. The size of the template must correspond to the width of the step. The size of the other side is arbitrary. All corners of the template must be straight. Having secured the template to the edge of the step, drill a recess for the baluster through its hole. Now on each next step it will be strictly in a place similar to the first recess.

If it is not possible to make products with a ready-made pin, there is another similar method: fastening to dowels, which are the same pins, but made separately. When using them, in the lower part of each baluster you will have to drill a corresponding hole to the diameter of the dowels used.

The disadvantage of this method is precisely that the necessary holes, made by hand, are not always obtained in the center of the end of the baluster.

Fastening to railings

Attaching to railings in the same way, like steps, is very difficult to do. The railings are at a large angle in relation to the vertical balusters, which greatly complicates any form of work.

To attach the railings in a simpler way, it is necessary, first of all, to cut off the top of the balusters along one line parallel to the flight of stairs. Markings can be made using a cord or laser level.

The top of all balusters of one staircase The march is tied on top with a rafter strip 10-20mm thick. Its width should correspond to the dimensions of the upper cut. The rail is fastened using screws.

From the bottom of the wooden railing a longitudinal groove must be made in width and depth corresponding to the width of the tie strip. The railing is put on the rail with a groove and secured with glue or the same screws from below through the body of the rail.

The railings of adjacent flights can be connected to each other, or they can be independent of each other. Railing connections from flight to flight have various options, up to the most complex rounded shape.

Special elements of stair railings

In some staircase designs, the outer posts that mark the top and bottom of the flights of stairs are made distinct from the rest of the balusters and are called support pillars. Their tops are not cut along the common line, but remain above the level of the railing. They are usually decorated with additional decorative elements. For example, large wooden balls. The support pillars must be secured to the floor very securely. The dowel for this purpose must be of a much larger diameter.

The rafter rail rests end-to-end against the support posts and is secured using a metal angle and screws. It is preferable to do this on top of the slats to subsequently hide the fasteners under the railings.

You can fasten the railing to the support post in another way: through a through hole using a long screw, but in this case it will have to be covered with additional decorative elements made of wood or plastic, and this may disrupt the decorative integrity of the appearance of the staircase.

At the junctions of the marches, support pillars are installed on the floor in pairs. For greater strength, it is permissible to connect them together using additional fasteners.

Although material costs with this method, the construction of stairs increases, but the complex connection of railings of adjacent flights becomes unnecessary.

Metal stair railings

Unlike wooden balusters, their metal counterparts cannot be produced at home. Unless in a very primitive form from ordinary metal pipes. Industrial elements of metal stairs Available in the form of stainless steel pipes. Their surface is polished to a shine and has no decorative excesses. Stair railings made of similar materials are used for a certain interior style.

Unlike wooden elements, metal harmonizes well with stone stairs.

Methods for fastening metal parts fences are presented in sufficient quantities on the Internet in the form of recordings of video master classes.

Cast or forged metal balusters can be made exclusively for external stairs. Such staircases are installed as part of the architectural structure of cities at the entrance to large public buildings, as structural elements of bridges, various staircase descents and passages. Especially often such stairs are built in park areas for decorative decoration.

Forged products are attached during the construction process by concreting their base into the overall mass of the structure.

Stone stairs

Concrete or stone balusters are also used mainly for decorative purposes to design large-scale urban structures.

They are also used in private rich households, but more often from natural or artificial stone.

Such balusters are attached to the floor of stone staircases using metal pins.

In the case of concrete products, the pins are inserted into them during the manufacturing process. Then, when installing the baluster In place, these pins are inserted into holes prepared on the planes of the steps, with the addition of cement mortar.

When using natural stone, holes are also prepared in the balusters themselves. Metal pins are first mounted in the steps, and then balusters are put on them.

When assembling stone stairs in rich houses they can do without metal pins using modern types of adhesives. The fit of the stone parts of the staircase, in this case, must be ideal and be carried out by specialized enterprises with a full cycle of work: from the manufacture of parts to their installation.

For the convenience of potential clients Such organizations are required to provide photographs of their products and videos of similar work performed by their specialists.

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