The combustion door in a brick oven is one of the most important elements, directly affecting the durability and efficiency of the structure. With its help, fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, the combustion process is regulated, and all this is done with great comfort. It would seem - what’s so complicated? In fact, unpleasant surprises are not uncommon - after several months, or even earlier, the door begins to hang, large targets appear around it and bricks crumble, which can lead to disastrous consequences. Let's consider how to secure the door furnace made of brick.
How to install the fire door?
- Cast iron. They are not popular due to their heavy weight, difficulty in installation and fear of high temperatures.
- From of stainless steel. Most often found in sauna stoves, because they confidently tolerate contact with water.
- Glass. The most attractive option is its excellent performance characteristics, as well as the ability to observe the combustion process.
Installing the combustion door of a brick oven is a challenging task. It is necessary to understand that under the influence of high temperatures the metal expands, which can result in ruptures in the masonry if it is made too tightly. Therefore, during the installation process metal elements a small gap should be left.
Before proceeding with installation, you should inspect the door and its frame (as a rule, they are included in the kit) for damage, distortion, and opening should be easy. If the stove is coal, then you need to drill a 13 mm hole in the product to remove gases. Since the door is subject to the greatest mechanical and thermal influence, each fastening option must be carried out in strict accordance with the technology and installation rules.
In this case it is recommended to use nichrome wire, since it is characterized by heat resistance, high ductility and durability. Before installation, it must be attached to the door frame, which, as a rule, has special holes (if not, then you need to pre-drill them). The diameter of the wire is selected depending on the thickness of the seam in the masonry and should be 2–3 times smaller. For stability and reliability of installation, the wire is walled up on at least 2 bricks, keeping it taut, which makes the whole process very labor-intensive.
The modern and most common method due to its simplicity and high reliability of the result. The structure is made from a corner and has the same geometric dimensions as the door, with one side placed between the bricks, and the other directly into the masonry, after which it is covered with mortar. Process Features:
- Protection of seams and masonry from high temperatures is provided by silicon thermal insulation. In addition, it compensates for the expansion of the metal when heated.
- The best stability is achieved with self-tapping screws that are screwed into the brick.
Reliable fixation with self-tapping screws or bolts
The method is the least popular and is not considered the most reliable, since the design of the door and frame is quite heavy, especially if they are made of cast iron. Before installation in brickwork Holes are drilled into the frame, after which installation occurs with fixation with self-tapping screws or bolts.
IMPORTANT. Be sure to leave a small gap between the brick and the masonry, since with thermal expansion of the metal, the screws can become deformed and damage the entire structure.
Despite the fact that each of the methods is simple and does not require certain skills and abilities, some points are still worth paying attention to:
Regardless of the chosen method, the key to reliable fastening and many years of operation is careful and responsible performance of work, as well as the use of reliable materials. Remember that the stove is built to last for decades and saving in this case simply does not make sense.
When building a stove, it is very important to install the stove appliances correctly. This will keep you safe and give you the pleasure of watching calmly crackling wood or coal in the furnace firebox.
Furnace devices - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, grate, slide (furnace) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease of operation of the furnaces.
Before installing the door, check for:
♦ tight fit of the canvas to the frame;
♦ free rotation of the blade in the hinges;
♦ no distortion;
♦ possibility of fixing their closure;
♦ presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.
The furnace valve gate should move freely in the grooves and tightly close the hole; the frame should not have cracks.
When installing stove appliances, it is necessary to remember that metal and brick, when heated, expand unequally. This especially affects the behavior of those devices that will be installed in high temperature areas. If they are tightly walled into brickwork, they will tear it when the temperature rises. Therefore, the grate, furnace door, oven and cast iron floor plate are installed so that free heating is ensured during heating.
their expansion without affecting the masonry. To do this, the grate is placed in the opening with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides (Fig. 108).
The grate must be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage. Lay it without mortar, and fill the grooves with sand.
The installation of the combustion door deserves special attention, since it is most susceptible to thermal expansion, and at the same time must be installed so that the combustion space is tightly closed and ensures reliable fastening her in the clutch. Secure the combustion door with clamps made of strip steel (Fig. 109). You can fasten it from below with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.8-2.0 mm, but you must cover it with a solution. In the vertical part, it is difficult to protect the wire from exposure to high temperatures - it will quickly burn out.
Clamps are made of strip steel. The clamp ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame. The clasp is secured to the frame with rivets. Pieces of steel wire with a diameter of
live so that they get into the masonry seams. Check the door level - top bar the frame should be horizontal - and secure it with a wooden strip. Place one end of the batten on the door frame, the other on 3 bricks laid flat, and place a brick on top of the batten.
According to the order, lay the bricks on the mortar, starting the laying of each row from the door, gradually sealing it in the mass of the stove.
Install the blower and cleanout doors in the same way, secure with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, placing its ends in the masonry seams. The blower door is little exposed to high temperatures - its expansion is insignificant, and since it must hermetically seal the flood space, it is tightly walled up in the masonry, sealing all the seams with clay mortar. It is necessary to strictly check the horizontality of the sides of the frame according to the level.
Ovens are usually made of sheet steel. Therefore, when heated, they will warp greatly if gaps are not left for expansion. They are installed level, the frame is wrapped in moistened sheet asbestos half a brick wide, the layer of asbestos can be increased, as long as the upper plane coincides with the laying plane of the row of bricks along which the ceiling is made.
The cast-iron stove on the kitchen and heating-cooking stove is laid strictly according to the level. To lay it in the bricks of the top row, a groove is cut out to the size of the slab with a gap of 5 mm on each side. You cannot even clamp one side of the plate - when heated, the opposite side will warp. It is better* to lay the slab on a clay-asbestos solution. To prepare such a solution, a liquid clay pulp is made, asbestos chips are added to it, bringing the solution to the desired consistency. The top is rubbed with the same solution kitchen stove along the perimeter.
Gate valves are installed in such a way as to ensure the tightness of the channel closure or chimney. Grooves for the frame with a small gap are cut out in the bricks.
rum for expansion. It is good to install valves on clay-asbestos mortar.
Independent construction of a home stove involves the use of special elements that make up this heating structure. Installing the combustion door of a brick oven is a critical step. Therefore you need to know about possible ways securing this stove appliance.
- cast iron;
- steel;
- with built-in glass.
The first option is most widespread because it best corresponds to such an indicator as price/quality. Stainless steel stove elements are mostly installed in rooms where there is contact with water, for example in baths. As for doors with glass, they can be recommended to those who like to watch the fire.
Before you begin installing the stove in the masonry, you need to check how easily it opens so that there are no problems after installation. There are situations when the door opens tightly even before installation, but during the operation of the heating structure it is developed. If we consider most of the stoves that are installed in village houses, then they door elements do not have asbestos gaskets. Today this material is used in industrial furnaces where it is required for resistance to high temperatures.
Since we are talking about installing a stove in home ovens, the temperature in them is not so high, and the door frame itself is located away from direct fire. In this case, installation on asbestos may not be carried out. Some craftsmen during construction heating structures, which use coal as fuel, do without asbestos, and the door is installed using wire. To guarantee, you can drill holes in the frame of the stove closer to the edge. There are several ways to install a firebox door.
The first method is to mount the fire door on a wire
When choosing this installation option, it is important to select a wire that will not burn during operation of the furnace. In most cases, preference is given to nichrome. This material is fire resistant and flexible, so it will last long time. The wire is threaded through the holes provided for this purpose in the door. If they are missing, then drilling them will not be difficult. The diameter of the material is selected based on the thickness of the masonry joint (2-3 times less).
To ensure better fastening of the wire during installation of the furnace device, it is positioned at an angle to the applied force. This will prevent the door from falling out when opening. As for the length of the wire, it must be at least 2 brick thicknesses, i.e. 130 mm. The disadvantage of this method of installing the door is that if you replace the stove fittings, you will need to disassemble the brickwork, since most of the wire is located in it.
After threading the wire into the hole, fold it in half and twist it, avoiding the formation of rings. To secure it, it is pulled and inserted into a prepared chip in the edge of the brick (5-10 mm deep) to avoid loosening and sliding. The door is installed on the mortar, after which the ends of the wire are spread onto the walls of the furnace, and the other ends are placed on three bricks and pressed at the top with several bricks.
The second method is to mount the door on stainless steel plates
This option for installing the door is considered more preferable. In most cases, the mounting element is a plate with a flange. IN mandatory Between the stainless strip for attaching the cast-iron door and the brickwork of the oven, a high-temperature resistant material, such as asbestos tape, is laid. After installation, it will not only serve as protection against high temperatures, but also provide compensation for the expansion of metal during the heating process. In other words, when the metal is heated, the masonry will not collapse.
Stainless steel flanged plates hold the door in place by engaging the brickwork. Installation of such elements is done using self-tapping screws, holes for which are drilled in advance. You can also secure the combustion door using a solid shell, which is installed on the frame of the stove. A metal sheet in this case, the thickness should be smaller than when using plates. To fasten with maximum reliability, it is recommended to install the part on a metal strip together with the use of wire.
The third method is to fasten the furnace door with bolts or screws
Installing the fire door of a brick oven using self-tapping screws or bolts is considered the fastest and at the same time unreliable. The installation process involves screwing the door into prepared holes in the masonry. This method is not the best for either a cast iron appliance or a steel or glass one. You cannot install the door close to the masonry, since when the part is heated, the masonry will gradually collapse.
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The listed methods for installing a stove appliance can be used not only when laying a stove from scratch, but also when repairing an old one. Which option you choose depends on personal preferences, available materials, and experience in the stove business. The best method would be one in which the door can be easily removed if necessary.
Regarding the choice of a furnace device, first of all, it should be taken into account that this part is not only protection against fire, i.e., it ensures safety, but also allows you to control the combustion process. In addition, it should look beautiful and be appropriate in a particular room. Only in this case will its installation provide warmth and comfort in the house.
At self-construction stoves, every owner is faced with the installation of special stove elements. Installation is a very responsible job. But not everyone knows how to do it correctly. The following article will tell you in detail about installing a good fire door and all other elements.
Specialized furnace devices include: doors of various purposes, grates and various furnace valves. They are necessary to ensure combustion in the stove and convenient use of the stove. Therefore, all stove elements must be installed efficiently and in good working order.
- before installing the door, you need to check the strength of its fit to the frame itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good fixation of the closure, the free rotation of the blade and the presence of appropriate holes for attaching the door in the brickwork of the stove;
- if any defects are found, they need to be removed or the door replaced;
- it is necessary that the valve gate moves freely in the grooves and completely closes the hole; cracks are not allowed in the frame itself;
- if you plan to heat the stove only with coal, you need to drill a hole measuring 13-18 mm in the gate itself.
Installation Features
When installing furnace elements, you must remember that various materials, such as brick and any metal, expand differently when heated. This is especially true for devices installed in high temperature areas. If the masonry is made dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will tear it. That is why they are installed in such a way that free expansion is possible during heating without endangering the furnace. To do this, you need to lay the grate in the opening with an exact 5 mm gap. During a breakdown, it must be freely removed for replacement. The grate is laid without using mortar, the grooves are filled with sand.
Work process
Installation of a high-quality combustion door. This process must be approached with full responsibility and 
seriousness. It is most exposed to heat and thermal expansion. Therefore, it should be installed so that the space in the stove is overlapped as tightly as possible and the door is securely fastened to the masonry. This oven door is secured with clamps, which are made of steel.
The door can be secured at the bottom using steel wire with a diameter of 2 mm, and subsequently closed with a solution. The top of the door cannot be secured with wire, as it will burn out due to the influence of very high temperatures.
Clamps are made of steel. All ears should protrude 10-12 cm beyond the door frame, and they are fastened with special rivets. The lower part of the door can be secured with a wire about 60 cm long. Before installing the door, you need to wrap the frame with asbestos. The material can be used in the form of cord, crumbs or sheets, moistening with water before use.
In the exact location of the door installation, it is necessary to apply a layer of clay composition to the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hidden in the seams. Be sure to check the installation horizontally with a level and fix it using wooden slats. One end of this strip is placed on the door frame, and the other on three bricks of the masonry, a brick is placed on top of it. Next, bricks are laid on the mortar, gradually laying the door in the stove mass. Each row starts from the door.
Oven
The oven is usually made of strong steel. Gaps are determined using a level, the frame is wrapped around 
sheet asbestos, half a brick wide. The plane of the frame at the top must coincide with the surface of the masonry last row brick, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer must be increased.
The grate must be installed 25-30 cm below the combustion opening with a slope towards the combustion door. The bottom of the firebox is shaped like a trough, and the slots located between the grates should be along the firebox.
To prevent the grate from destroying the masonry when heated, it is necessary to leave 5 mm gaps, which are then covered with sand. The grate cannot be secured using the solution!
The blower door and, together with it, the cleaning door are installed in the same way as the firebox door. The blower door is practically not exposed to high temperatures, so it must be tightly and firmly walled into the stove masonry, treating the seams with clay mortar. The horizontal of the frame is also determined using a level.
Installing a cast iron cookstove
Absolutely all slabs are installed strictly according to construction level. For installation, it is necessary to cut out a groove in the very top row that corresponds to the size of the slab and has a gap of 5 mm on each side. It is strictly forbidden to clamp any sides of the plate, since during heating the opposite side will change and become askew. You need to use a clay-asbestos solution. They also need to be rubbed over the entire top of the slab around the entire perimeter.
Replacement of furnace appliances
During prolonged operation of the stove, most often the grate burns out, the firebox doors become loose or fall out, as well as warping and cracking of the cooking floors.
The easiest way is to change the grate bars. The grate that has become unusable is removed from the fuel part and a new one, identical in size to the old one, is installed in its place. However, when installing, the grate must be positioned correctly: the cone-shaped slots for ash should be positioned with the wide part upward. And we must not forget that a grate made of metal will certainly expand when heated and at the landing site it must be left at least 5 mm of free space.
Photo 11.
Until recently, twisted wire embedded in seams was the most common method of fastening firebox doors and ash pan doors. But, if the ash pan doors are practically not subjected to regular thermal and mechanical loads, then, as a rule, they very rarely fall out of their fastening points and receive other damage, unlike fuel doors.
During the daily operation of the stove, and especially if the firebox door is treated carelessly (clogging inappropriately sized logs into the firebox, overheating due to too intense heating and other negative actions), the fastening wire is gradually pulled out. Once the twist is exposed, then under the influence of an open flame the unprotected wire will eventually inevitably burn out and the door in best case scenario starts to wobble, and at worst falls out. This trouble is often accompanied by partial or complete collapse brick lintel above the door.
Photo 12.
In addition to attaching stove appliances to twisted wires, there are a number of other ways to install them. In particular, for thin-walled stainless steel corners and, accordingly, much more heat-resistant than conventional ones, made of black steel, as well as for clasps made of perforated steel tape. Based on the fact that stainless steel corners are quite expensive, and attaching doors to them requires certain skills, for repair purposes the method of installation using clamps is more relevant.
Photo 13.
A clamp, or more simply put, an ordinary strip, freely sold in construction stores steel tape(Photo 13), which is fastened with short screws corresponding to the thickness of the door frame, or, which, in my opinion, is more convenient, with rivets, 4–5 mm in diameter.
Photo 14.
When attaching, the clamping tape must be moved as far as possible towards the edge of the frame facing the inside of the firebox. Otherwise, after installing the stove appliance, it will protrude from the outer part of the seam.
The seams into which the clamps will be inserted are thoroughly cleaned of old mortar and washed.
Photo 15.
Photo 16.
When installing the door, the clamps are inserted into the cleared seams (Photo 16), and the stove itself is fixed, as a rule, with a stack of bricks stacked on top of each other.
Photo 17.
Then the seams are hammered to maximum filling and washed thoroughly. You can use the oven after installing the door after the solution has completely dried for a time determined by the manufacturer of the mixture.
Photo 18.
We should not forget that the fuel door, like the grate, is made of metal, which expands when heated. Accordingly, when installing the door, from the sides and top it is necessary to provide at least 5 mm of space to the brick, filled with basalt materials for tightness.
In case of critical destruction or loss of lintel bricks above the door, they should be replaced by installing a so-called “lock” brick in the middle of the lintel, clearly visible in Photo 17. This method of laying when the brick is cut at 45 degrees along the butts and acts as a wedge or “lock” » inserted between pre-cut adjacent bricks, significantly strengthens the lintel, preventing it from collapsing even if the mortar that binds the bricks spills out.
Replacing the cooking floor, as well as replacing the grate, usually does not cause any particular difficulties. However, even in this seemingly simple operation, there are a number of nuances. First, the cooking floor, like the grate, the fuel door, as well as almost any metal in the body of a brick stove, must be left with at least 5 mm of free space for pressure expansion. Second, seal the gap between the decking and the brick. masonry mortar, as most stove owners often do, is pointless. A solution that has hardened and lost its elasticity will inevitably collapse and spill out during regular cycles of expansion and contraction of the flooring during the operation of the furnace. Therefore, sealing should be carried out by filling the cavities with heat-resistant basalt materials.
Photo 19.
Third - cooking floors domestic production, especially solid ones, without burners, are not particularly durable and often crack even after several fires. Therefore, despite more high cost, it is preferable to install cooking floors from foreign, in particular, Finnish manufacturers.
To remove soot from the convective system, or, in other words, the smoke circulation system, special units must be provided in the furnace body. technological holes, called cleaning doors, in which cleaning doors are installed. Ideally, each smoke circuit has its own cleaning door. However, during the process of laying the stove, for various reasons, they may either not be made, or an insufficient number may be made, thereby complicating or making it completely impossible to clean the heating device.
By the way, the deposition of soot in smoke circulation and chimneys, in addition to a significant deterioration in draft and a critical decrease in efficiency due to reduced heat transfer from heated gases to bricks, significantly increases the risk of fire, since soot under certain thermal conditions tends to flare up and burn with a very high temperature, more than 1000 °C temperature.
Photo 20.
Rules fire safety require cleaning the convective furnace system at least twice a year - at the beginning and at the end of the heating season.
Before installing the cleanout door, it is necessary to determine where the smoke duct is located. In case the ego cannot be done by visual inspection, then you will have to look for the channel. To do this, a thin drill for concrete, no more than 4 mm in diameter and more than 120 mm long (the width of the brick), is installed on a drill, with which, in drilling mode (the impact mode can damage the brick), the seams are pierced in the place where the smoke duct is supposed to be located until the drill will not fall into the void. After the boundaries of the channel have been determined, a hole is prepared for installing a cleaning door by removing bricks from the masonry, in a manner similar to that used when replacing defective bricks.
Photo 21.
If during installation it is necessary to remove half the brick by cleaning the door, then the line of future spalling is first drilled with several holes and then beaten off unnecessary part using a chisel.
Photo 22.
As for the cleaning doors themselves, the market offers mainly cheaper doors of domestic production, the vast majority produced in the city of Rubtsovsk (Photo 22), as well as imported, mainly Finnish ones.
Photo 23.
It must be noted that, despite more low price products from the Rubtsovsky plant, they do not possess one of, perhaps, the main qualities that a cleaning door should have - tightness. Therefore, it is still preferable to install imported cleaning doors.
Photo 24.
Photo 25.
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