Installation of boxes in the bathroom. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom - step-by-step installation guide

A box in the bathroom allows you to hide pipes, taps, water meters and other communication plumbing equipment. It is easier to assemble the box from metal profile, and use PVC panels or a sheet of plasterboard as cladding.

Preparatory work before installing the box

Before you start making a box in the bathroom with your own hands, you need to decide on the purpose and size. To decoratively hide pipes, it is enough to create around them lightweight frame, lined with a moisture-repellent coating. If there are children in the house or you plan to place something on the created surface (basins, buckets, household chemicals), then you will have to strengthen the base with power bars. The creation of a lined false wall from floor to ceiling will help solve the issue of visual finishing of the resulting corners.

Before making a box in the bathroom, you will need to create a drawing of the planned structure on paper. It is necessary to include the installation locations of future hatches located opposite shut-off valves, water meters and flexible connection points. If a natural or forced exhaust, then you will have to create ventilation duct in the bathroom. Compiled from building materials, it must provide sufficient air flow. The easiest way is to overlay decorative lattice opposite the existing one.

Assembling the box frame

You can assemble the box in the bathroom with your own hands using the following tools:

• drill or hammer drill;
• metal scissors;
• hacksaw for metal;
• hammer, screwdriver, tape measure.

It is advisable to assemble a box for pipes in the bathroom from waterproof materials. It is better to make the frame from a metal profile rather than from timber. The use of the latter is permissible only if there is a closed shower stall in the bathroom and a good hood is available. Filled hot water bath bowl creates excess humidity, destructive for timber. At the same time, its advantages include simple installation of the box in the bathroom and high mechanical strength of the entire structure. To protect the timber from moisture it is better to use oil paint, varnish or drying oil.

The rectangular box above the pipes is also assembled from a metal profile. To do this, at least three centimeters into the floor and wall (above top level pipes when placed horizontally or on the side when placed vertically), guides for the profile are screwed with self-tapping screws. The profile itself is measured by size: the height of the box plus its depth. Two parallel rectangular cuts are made in the profile using metal scissors to bend it at an angle of 90°, after which it is inserted into the guides. Further installation of the box in the bathroom consists of installing similar profiles with a distance between them of 40–50 cm.

The frame is assembled from timber in the same way. You can strengthen the horizontal plane future design by installing the block sideways into the floor - both when assembling from this material, and in the recess of a metal profile. A full-size vertical ventilation duct in the wall in the bathroom can be assembled from thinner timber (40x50 mm) or from a metal profile with big step between the stiffeners.
Video: how to assemble a frame for a bathroom box:

Options for finishing the box in the bathroom

It is worth assembling a plasterboard box in a bathroom or toilet if you expect high mechanical strength from it. You will also have to use this material when finishing the bathroom frame with ceramic tiles. The advantages of drywall include noticeable reinforcement of the frame. The place of the rectangular connection of the sheets in the box needs to be strengthened profile corner. The drywall itself is attached to the profile or timber using self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.

A box made of panels in a bathroom, similar in installation, is less resistant to dynamic loads. Such cladding is beneficial as decorative, without mechanical influence from the outside. It is easy to construct (screws or glue to the profile), moisture-resistant and does not require finishing. The plasterboard box in the bathroom will have to be covered with film, tiles or painted. The joints of panels or sheets with the wall (floor) are sealed with sealant and baseboards.

Installing a box in the bathroom with your own hands - video:

Installation of hatches in a box

Attaching a plastic hatch to plasterboard or a panel box in the bathroom is exactly the same: just stationery knife or use a jigsaw to cut out the perimeter of the hatch frame and glue it. Designing a fully opening box wall is quite technically difficult, especially when finishing it with tiles. Therefore, it is necessary to provide access to the pipe box in the bathroom to all places of threaded or other connections using hatches.

When deciding how to make a box in the bathroom, you need to proceed from the weight, dynamic load on its walls. It is not advisable to use plywood or hardboard (fibreboard sheets) for finishing because of their low moisture resistance and strength. The frame of the box made of a metal profile will add rigidity, and the vertical elements will strengthen it. load-bearing beams from timber or the same profile. For service work, you will need to install plastic doors with glue at the joints of pipes or flexible plumbing connections.

You cannot do without communication systems in the bathroom. However, plumbing and sewer pipes are unlikely to give your room an aesthetic appearance. Therefore, most residents, during the renovation process, try to hide all communications. There are several ways to implement your plan: hide the pipes using furniture, boxes, roller shutters, or wall them up in the wall. When choosing a camouflage option, it is worth considering the possibility Maintenance communications. So that in case of a breakdown you don’t have to destroy the decor of the room. By installing a pipe box in the bathroom, you can make a collapsible structure or build small doors for access to communications.

Depending on the location of the pipes, the box can be installed in two ways: covering only the pipes or the entire wall on which they are located. In the first option, by covering only those areas where there are pipes, you save on material. Sewing up the entire plane on which the lines are located looks more aesthetically pleasing, but reduces usable area bathroom In order to somehow use the space in the box not occupied by pipes, small storage facilities are built there for various things.

What is the best way to make a box?

Before closing unsightly communications, you need to choose the right material for the box, behind which the pipes in the bathroom will be hidden. It must meet several requirements:

• have sufficient resistance to moisture;
• have low weight and thickness;
• made from environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit harmful substances.

According to these criteria, from the commercially available materials for making a box in the bathroom, you can use: MDF, moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant plasterboard or plastic.

Preparatory stage

Most often, pipeline problems occur at the joints. Therefore, the fewer there are, the better. If the box is installed after laying new pipes, care must be taken to ensure that the main has as few connections as possible. If replacing the pipeline is not part of your plans, before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of them. Inspect all lines for defects and, if any, repair them.

It is believed that soldered and welded joints can be closed without fear of leaks. But for fittings having threaded connections must be freely accessible. It is necessary to periodically inspect them. Therefore, threaded connections cannot be bricked up. It is also necessary to ensure free access to valves, sewer inspections, meters, and filters.

Making a box step by step

Installation of a box in a bathroom consists of several stages. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Measurements and sizing of structures

Before sealing the pipes, you need to take the necessary measurements and clarify the location of the box. In places of unreliable connections, to meters and valves, it is necessary to provide a removable part or door. It wouldn't hurt to have a scale plan of the room on which all the structural details will be marked. When measuring, do not forget about the thickness of the finishing material.

Having determined the outline of the future structure on the floor, use a plumb line to transfer it to the ceiling, and then make markings on the walls.

Installation of the frame for subsequent cladding

Before sewing communications into the box, it is necessary to install a frame around the pipes. It is best to make it from a galvanized profile. Since the air in the bathroom is constantly humid, the use of wooden blocks is undesirable. If you do decide to use them, choose bars made from rot-resistant rocks. Treat everything before use wooden parts antiseptic.

The frame elements are connected to each other using self-tapping screws or using a cutter. To secure the profile to the wall, dowels and European screws are used.

It is necessary to mount profiles to the wall taking into account that finishing material subsequently did not fit closely to the pipes

The first step is to mount the profile on the walls. Then the racks forming the front edge are installed.

Depending on the design of the future box, there may be several or only one front pillars. They are attached using their own curved edge or hangers

Then the guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor.

It is convenient to fasten vertical and horizontal profiles together using a cutter

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to make jumpers between them. They will also be needed for a frame whose width is more than 0.25 m. The distance between the jumpers is no more than a meter.

For structural strength, jumpers are attached to racks with a height of more than 1.5 m

Using wooden frame treat the cut areas with construction mastic. This will protect the box from damage and prevent its deformation during temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Sheathing the box frame with sheet material

When cutting out parts for the box, try to make solid elements and not from pieces. First, cut the side parts. They are cut in such a way that the edges do not protrude beyond the frame profiles, but are flush with them. After this, cut out the front part of the box. It should cover the side elements.

After cutting the material, it is mounted to the racks. This is done with self-tapping screws (3.5-4.5 cm). The distance between them should be no more than 2.5 cm. Such a box will have sufficient strength, so it is not necessary to attach the material to the jumpers. For control weak points the pipeline is left with inspection holes with doors.

It is necessary to leave a hole in the box for free access to valves, meters and filters. It can be buried with a door purchased from a hardware store.

You can build them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. To make your own access points to the pipes, make a door from the material that is used for the box itself. To prevent it from opening, furniture magnets are attached to them.

The door for the control hole can be finished with the same material as the entire box. This way it will be less noticeable

You can make a completely collapsible box. To do this, sheets of finishing material are attached to the very edge with self-tapping screws. When performing the final finishing, they are not covered with tiles.

Finally, plastic corners or plinths are fixed. When it is necessary to dismantle the box, remove the baseboard, unscrew the screws and remove the finishing material.

Self-tapping screws, covered with a plastic corner, can be easily unscrewed to dismantle the box in in case of emergency. After this, the box remains intact and can be mounted in place

Final decorative finishing

The final stage of box installation is its finishing. It depends on the material from which the structure is made. Plywood, drywall and MDF can be faced with ceramic tiles or painted. Plastic panels do not require further finishing. They look quite attractive on their own. Unlike drywall, plastic does not reduce the area of ​​the room.

To decorate the bathtub, a frame is built from a profile

In the same way, the pipes under the bathroom itself are closed. First, the frame is mounted, and then it is sheathed, leaving control doors.

Mounted on top of the profile frame moisture resistant drywall and a tile on it. Be sure to leave a door for pipe maintenance

Now knowing how to install a box, you can decorate any pipes in the bathroom and make the room more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Hiding communications in the bathroom improves the design of the room. In addition, after covering the pipes with a box, the noise level emanating from them is reduced.

Video example of these finishing works

Wanting to make their bathroom more neat and convenient, many people decide to hide the water and sewer pipes when carrying out renovations. The best way to do this without transferring communications and with a minimum of dust is to build a box for pipes in the bathroom. You can assemble a plumbing box with your own hands; there are several options available for this.

The most common option for hiding pipes is to assemble a box from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the fact that the drywall can then be glued ceramic tiles, which is most often used to decorate bathrooms. Let's consider the main stages of constructing a gypsum plasterboard box.

Stage 1: marking

Before starting to assemble the frame, markings are made at the installation site of the box. The initial mark is placed at a distance of 30–50 mm from the most protruding element of communications.

The frame stand is located at a distance of at least 3 cm from pipes and other communication units.

Next, using a level, a vertical line is drawn along the surface of the wall, indicating the line of fastening of the frame. A similar mark is placed on the other wall, as well as in areas where horizontal pipes are closed.

Note! It is advisable to select the size of the box for tiling in such a way that whole tiles are used to cover all protruding parts. In addition to saving tiles, this allows you to create a neat and complete cladding.

Stage 2: frame construction

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile, which is attached to the walls with dowels along the marking lines. The step between the attachment points is 20–30 cm. The guide profile is also attached to the ceiling and floor to form the angle of the frame and install the front pillar. To ensure that the corners of the frame below and above are located in the same plane, first the guide profile is attached at right angles to the ceiling. Then a plumb line is tied to it and a point is marked on the floor where it should be located. bottom corner frame.

A rack profile is screwed to the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws, which is fixed with 3-4 horizontal jumpers for additional mounting rigidity.

Note! Reinforcing jumpers are mounted taking into account the future location of inspection hatches that provide access to valves and meters.

After assembling the vertical part of the frame, if there are horizontal pipes for them, the frame is assembled according to a similar scheme:

• A guide profile is attached to the wall and floor, which sets the dimensions of the future box.
• The front frame element is attached to the guides using jumpers cut from the rack profile.

All jumpers are also installed taking into account the location of the sewer outlet for connecting the toilet, inspection hatches and shut-off valves.

Stage 3: framing the frame

The finished frame is sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut into pieces of the required size. GKLV is cut sharp knife: first, the cardboard is cut along the line on one side (with a slight penetration into the gypsum core), then the sheet is broken along the cut line and the cardboard is cut on the second side. The sheathing is fastened to the frame using black self-tapping screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The place where the inspection hatch will be installed is not covered with plasterboard or a hole is then cut out.

Note! It is advisable that at this stage the inspection hatch has already been selected by type and size and purchased so that you can immediately try it on for a tight fit.

Types of hatches used for plasterboard boxes:

Stage 4: finishing

Before finishing the box must be prepared, this is done in the following sequence:

1. All seams between the drywall are opened with a knife, then, along with the corners and other edges, they are sanded.
2. The seams are filled with putty, and sickle tape is glued on top.
3. The corners are also treated with a putty mixture and glued with sickle tape.
4. After the putty has dried, the box is treated with a primer in two passes, with a break for each layer to dry.

A plasterboard box is most often faced with ceramic tiles: a continuous layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back side of the tile, which is smoothed with a notched trowel. The tile is applied to the drywall and pressed, then the next one is glued. Having completed the installation, the seams are rubbed over conventional technology, and the corners are covered with decorative elements of a color matching the finish.

It is written in detail about laying tiles on drywall.

Plastic box

Another frequently used material for hiding communications is PVC panels. A plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is most often constructed if the walls and/or ceiling are covered or planned to be covered with plastic. Let's look at how to properly make a plastic box with your own hands when hiding a sewer riser in a Khrushchev building.

Frame assembly

The frame, as for a gypsum plasterboard box, is assembled from guides and rack profiles according to a similar scheme:

• The guides are attached to the wall using dowels.
• Outside corner formed using a profile secured with jumpers. Fastening all elements metal frame carried out by so-called bedbugs or flea beetles - metal screws 13 or 16 mm long.

Advice! If there is free space behind the pipes, you can use any corners to secure a wooden shelf, and then install an additional hatch in the casing. In this simple way it will work comfortable spot for storing household chemicals or other items.

Frame covering

Conventional plastic panels are used to cover the frame. Depending on the size of the frame, you can choose a strip width of 10 or 25 cm. The frame is sewn in the following order:

If pipes pass through the box that are not planned to be closed (for example, heating pipes or a heated towel rail), then to carefully handle them proceed as follows:

• The starting profile is attached to the frame close to the wall.
• Cutouts are made in the plastic panel at one edge for approximately half the diameter of the pipe.
• The panel is cut to width and inserted into the space behind the pipe.
• A cutout is also made in the next panel for the remaining diameter, and the panels are connected to each other.

This method allows you to make a neat outline of the pipe, and the remaining gap is subsequently filled with sealant.

Note! During the covering, marks are made on the plastic panels where the hole for the hatch will be located and its size.

Final stage

When the box is completely sheathed, according to the marks made in advance, holes for hatches are cut using a jigsaw with fine teeth.

For installation on plastic boxes, plastic folding or rotating hatches are used, which are selected according to size. The hatch is attached using silicone sealant, which is applied along the edges of the product. The hatch is then pressed against plastic sheathing, and the protruding sealant is removed.

If there is no handle in the opening hatch cover, opening it is not very convenient. For convenience, you can use a regular self-tapping screw to screw on a plastic furniture handle that matches the color.

To make it more convenient to open the hatch, a handle is screwed onto the door.

Outer corner closes plastic skirting board, which is fixed with silicone sealant.

Advice! It is recommended to fix the outer corner while the sealant sets masking tape so that he doesn't leave.

The final touch is to fill the gaps between the pipe and the plastic lining with white sealant.

Collapsible box options

In conclusion, we will look at four ways to make a collapsible box in the bathroom, so that in case of emergencies or replacement of risers, you can provide access to them and do not have to break the entire structure.

Method 1

The plasterboard box is assembled independently frame structure, which is not attached to the wall. The box itself is glued to the already laid tiles with one-component polyurethane adhesive. To remove the box in the pipes that come out of it, quick-release connections of the “American” type are provided. If full access to the riser is necessary, the glue is carefully cut with a knife or other sharp object, and the box is carefully set aside.

Method 2

Another option for a removable box is that the frame is attached to the walls, as usual. Then plasterboard blanks are cut out along the frame to cover it, but are not screwed to the guides. The sheathing is fixed to the frame after gluing the tiles to the drywall: to do this, a hole is made in it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. If access to the pipes is necessary, the screws are unscrewed, and all cladding (plasterboard + tiles) is carefully removed.

Method 3

To make it easier to disassemble and dismantle the plasterboard box, some craftsmen suggest setting the tiles on transparent silicone instead of cement tile adhesive. This method of fixation works fine if the base is drywall. When a thin layer of silicone is applied to the tile, it does not float on the base, and if a thick layer of sealant is needed, it is necessary to use plastic crosses to prevent the tile from sliding. If necessary, disassembling such a box is much easier than when the tiles are glued with cement glue. From the edge inspection hatch the sealant layer is cut off hacksaw blade. Moreover, due to the fact that transparent silicone is used, it is visible where the screws securing the drywall are located and the entire structure can be disassembled.

Method 4

The simplest and a budget option collapsible design means assembling a box from PVC panels without installing a rigid frame. The essence of the method is as follows:

• The guide profiles are glued to the tile cladding using liquid nails.
• The starting profile is attached to the guides in the same way.
• Plastic panels are inserted into the guides, and the front corner is connected using external corner with a wide shelf.

This design has no rigidity, but if access to the riser is necessary, it can be disassembled in just one minute.

Speaking about pipes in the bathroom, it should be noted that they do not look very attractive. Therefore, the question of how to make a pipe box in the bathroom worries many people. more aesthetic appearance.

Installing a box is the most common method. Just before installation, it is necessary to calculate everything so that there is unhindered access to the mainline distribution.

Otherwise renovation work it will not be possible to carry out this without dismantling the box.

Tools required for work:

1. mites;
2. electric drill;
3. square;
4. marker;
5. hacksaw;
6. hammer;
7. metal scissors;
8. screwdriver;
9. level;
10. roulette.

First you need to make a frame

Regardless of the cladding material and the location of the box, the frame is always made the same way. Let's consider this using the example of a box located vertically.

Work begins with the installation of two guide profiles. If the box is placed in a corner, then they are mounted with one and reverse side from the corner. And in areas where the main line runs straight, it must be installed on both sides of the pipe.

The guides must be strengthened using a level, and they should be secured with dowels or self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! In order not to lose a lot of space in the bathroom, you need to ensure that the profiles are located as close to the pipes as possible.

Next, they move on to installing guide profiles in the bathroom on the ceiling and floor. From the edge of the wall profile on the wall, lines are drawn parallel to the wall.

Where the lines intersect will indicate the length and direction for mounting the guides. The necessary blanks are cut (two for the floor and two for the ceiling).

Then they are secured with dowels and the direction indicated by the lines is maintained. This is necessary in order not to disturb the vertical angle that is formed later.

First, you need to install it on the ceiling, and then, using a plumb line, transfer the joining point to the floor. This is where the floor profiles are assembled.

They must be fastened with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm and a length of 9 mm (tex).

This corner element is cut according to the height of the room and inserted into the guides on the ceiling and floor. The entire structure is then secured with tex.

The next step The work will involve connecting wall and corner guides with blanks of supporting profiles.

They are placed every 5 cm, otherwise the frame will not have the necessary rigidity. And now you can move on to the casing.

Which material is better to choose

Most often, plastic or plasterboard is used for cladding. The main difference between these materials is that the plastic design is more convenient.

If necessary, it can be easily and quickly disassembled. And it folds up very easily too. Box of plastic panels does not need additional finishing, but drywall requires this.

Sheathing with plasterboard

It is not difficult to make a box in a bathroom from plasterboard. Sequence of work:

1. Drywall sheets are cut into pieces the right size.
2. These pieces are then screwed to a metal profile. To do this, use 27 mm self-tapping screws. Fastenings are made at intervals of 30 cm using a screwdriver or screwdriver.
3. A small chamfer needs to be removed from the joint of the drywall sheets, and the resulting gap is sealed with putty.

Finishing of this material It is produced in the same way as wall decoration. To do this, use plastic panels, paint, wallpaper, or ceramic tiles.

Access to communications is an important detail when installing a box

It should be borne in mind that the network will someday need to be repaired, so you need to provide convenient and quick access to it. For such purposes, a hole must be made in the structure.

The small dimensions of such a hole make it difficult to access, so take this point into account in advance.

The hole is closed with a special hatch. Construction stores have a wide selection of these designs. Buyers can choose any color, size and model modification. The device is secured with magnets.

Blinds are also used for the opening. Not everyone likes this solution, but you can get to the pipes in a couple of minutes.

Removable box made of plasterboard and tiles

A removable box for pipes in the bathroom is suitable in cases where it is necessary to sew up pipes inexpensively and neatly. IN in this case the advantage is that if a pipeline rupture occurs, it is easy to access problem area.

Video 1

For a removable structure, moisture-resistant plasterboard and metal guides are used. The entire structure is made of attached parts that are installed one on top of the other.

All sections are corner elements and are attached to the wall using simple hinges, which are used for hanging shelves.

The structure is hung with screws, and it simultaneously rests on the floor. This design is resistant to shear. How additional fasteners are used metal corner from its inner part.

Access to communications becomes possible through the hatch even after the upper part is removed. Handles are attached to the sections from the inside. This is done for easy movement during installation.

It is better to make the final lining of the removable box from a tiled mosaic that is glued liquid nails. A hatch is installed in the middle section for access to ventilation and meters.

The seam between the sections does not need to be rubbed, but can be applied rubber compressor or silicone.

Removable pipe boxes are not light in weight, but they can be easily and quickly disassembled, which makes them very convenient to use.

Box finishing with plastic panels

This design is considered a good alternative. This material is not particularly inferior to tiles, which occupy a leading place among finishing materials.

Plastic is easy to care for, it can be easily cleaned of dirt and grease stains.

This material is not afraid of temperature changes, and for a bathroom this is very important. The popularity of this material is also based on the fact that its installation is a simple process that does not require high costs time and finances.

If you decide to make a box from plastic panels in the bathroom, then you don’t have to think about leveling the walls. Plastic panels are mounted like laminate (using a puzzle method).

The installation process itself takes a couple of hours. Distinctive feature This material is resistant to deformation.

If the box is tiled in a new house, it may shrink over time. In this case, the tiles are destroyed, but this does not happen with panels.

Plastic panels have another advantage. They are much cheaper when compared to tiles. In addition to its high cost, to the costs of its installation you need to add the costs of glue, grout, corners, and leveling the walls.

For plastic panels all this is not needed. Also, replacing tiles is difficult. And a damaged panel is much easier to replace. For these reasons, a plastic pipe box in the bathroom is used more often than others.

IMPORTANT! To make this design last longer, the places where the panels are attached are coated with silicone sealant.

Placing plastic panels on pipes in the bathroom

• In this case, it is advised not to install the entire profile at once. At first, only the wall starting element is installed.
• They begin to sheathe one side. The plastic is cut into small pieces and inserted from bottom to top (do this horizontally). They do not require fastening. In those places where it is necessary to control the highway, cutouts are made and a door is mounted.
• Decorative element for the corner. Plastic corner is put on the protrusion of the assembled plastic. When it falls into place, it must be secured to the frame with planks.
• The second side of the structure is sheathed similarly to the first.
• The back shelf is removed from the last starting profile. It is coated with silicone and glued into the corner.
• Slots and joints of the box with tiles filled with sanitary silicone. Excess is carefully removed with a damp cloth.

Video 2

Whatever box you choose, the main thing is that it fully copes with its functions. It should cover unsightly pipes and make it possible to get to them comfortably.

With all this, this design must be in harmony with general design design of the entire room. Using the information above and watching the video, you will learn how to make a bathroom pipe box yourself. This type of work will not be a problem for you.

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Communications laid on the walls are unlikely to decorate the interior of the bathroom. For camouflage and decorative design pipelines use a variety of structural forms, one of which is a box. Anyone can handle its construction without any problems. House master, if he is familiar with technological subtleties. Right?

We'll tell you how to do it with my own hands beautiful and durable box for pipes in the bathroom. For independent owners, we have listed a number of the most popular options available to an inexperienced performer. The tips given in the article will ensure the impeccable results of your efforts.

The wiring in the bathroom includes pipes connected to various plumbing fixtures (bathtub, washbasin, and with a combined bathroom, to the toilet), as well as various devices and devices: valves, filters, water meters.

To prevent communication systems from being conspicuous, they are hidden using various methods.

When organizing hidden wiring, the pipes are hidden in specially cut channels in the walls. Please note that this method has many limitations.

One of them is hidden wiring. In this case, the pipes are hidden inside the walls, arranging special grooves in the latter.

True, this method is not universal, since it has a number of limitations:

• Wall gating can only be done during overhaul, since in this case complete elimination is required finishing coatings and replacement of communications equipment;
• when installing hidden wiring, it is impossible to hide a filter, meter or other device;
• building regulations prohibit punching grooves in load-bearing structures, since they sharply reduce the strength of the walls;
• there are restrictions on the dimensional characteristics of pipes that are used for hidden wiring: their diameter should not exceed 50 mm. Therefore, this method is in no way suitable for masking thick skin;
• This method is not suitable for risers, the appearance of which is unlikely to decorate the interior of the bathroom.

An alternative to hidden wiring is considered combined system, which provides for the installation of a box on the surface of the walls. In this case, the pipes are placed in a specially allocated space, and the outer walls are finished in accordance with the style of the interior.

Advantages of a camouflage box

In the design of modern bathrooms, similar structures are often used, masking one or more pipes, since the boxes have a number of undeniable advantages.

A pipe box made of plastic panels or plasterboard will improve the interior of the bathroom. This design will fit well into any room

Similar designs are characterized by:

• Neat appearance, which is achieved by using quality materials for the manufacture and design of the structure.
• Easy to install. The system can be implemented not only with capital, but also with cosmetic repairs, since the box can be installed even on top of the finished finishing.
• Providing easy access to the pipeline, which allows not only to take meter readings, but also to monitor the condition of the pipes, and, if necessary, repair instruments and communications.
• The ability to combine the box with a toilet installation, shelves and other parts, thereby achieving optimal use area of ​​even a small room.

A carefully made and finished box can become a real decoration of the bathroom, combining functionality and aesthetics.

Selecting building materials for installation

To make a box, you must first build a frame, which is then covered with sheathing material, and often additionally finished, for example, covered with tiles. The base is made of galvanized metal guides (vertical and horizontal).

Can be used as a coating different kinds building materials that must have a number of qualities, namely:

• Moisture resistance. Boxes are installed in bathrooms, where there is a high percentage of water vapor.
• Light weight and small thickness. Both the ease of installation and the dimensions depend on these factors. finished design: too dense walls can “take up” a significant part of the space.
• Environmentally friendly. Similar designs should not emit toxic substances or have a pronounced allergenic effect.
• Aesthetic appearance or the possibility of additional finishing.

Most often, the following types of materials are used for cladding.

Option #1: plastic panels (PVC)

Polymer panels have a beautiful appearance. They are released in large assortment, which allows you to choose a finishing material that fits perfectly with color palette bathroom.

You can find plastic panels in the assortment of construction stores. various colors and shades. Besides the beautiful appearance this material is also strong and durable

In addition to aesthetics, PVC panels have high consumer qualities:

• ideal water resistance;
• resistance to deformation and mechanical damage;
• durability: flexible and durable plastic can last for many years;
• easy to clean - dirty parts can simply be wiped with a damp cloth;
• ease of installation: working with this material does not require special professional skills or special equipment;
• availability: PVC panels are a budget finishing material with low cost;
• opportunity quick repair: damaged structural elements can be removed without destroying the entire box;
• compactness. The panels are thin, so structures made from them do not take up much space, which is extremely important for miniature rooms.

An alternative to plastic panels is usually plasterboard, which is widely used in construction.

Option #2: moisture-resistant plasterboards

Exist different varieties this popular material. To decorate a bathroom, you should not use standard drywall (gypsum plasterboard), intended for rooms with moderate humidity (up to 70%).

Moisture resistant plasterboard sheets often used for constructing boxes. This inexpensive material easy to install; it also has good resistance to water vapor

At the same time, a moisture-resistant type of drywall - gypsum board, which is easily recognized by the green surface of the slabs - is well suited for finishing the plumbing unit. Such sheets are suitable for standard facing works, and for creating complex structures with convex, concave and curved surfaces (in this case, however, working with drywall requires special skills).

Another additional advantage of GKVL is that the slabs are impregnated with antifungal agents that prevent the development of harmful mold.

At the same time, when choosing a material, you should take into account some features of drywall:

• Installation of structures made of gypsum board or gypsum board requires more effort than installation of systems made of plastic or MDF boards.
• It will not be possible to make a collapsible structure from plasterboard, so when making the box it is imperative to provide a door or hatch that provides access to valves, meters and other elements of the communication system.
• GKL (GKVL) slabs are not finishing material: when making a box from them, it is important to think about the finishing. Taking into account high humidity In bathrooms, tiled paneling is usually used, but other types of decoration can be used: paint, decorative plaster, wallpaper.

It is important to note that experts advise additionally impregnating even moisture-resistant boards with a special composition in order to increase the strength and resistance of the element to moisture.

In addition, you can build a box from other materials.

Option #3: waterproof plywood

This modification differs from ordinary plywood in the special composition of the glue used. The sheets have a thickness of 6 to 40 millimeters and quite good consumer properties, however, despite the name, it is better to further process them special compounds, improving water resistance.

The main disadvantage of waterproof plywood is high price, because of which it is used less often than other building materials.

Option #4: MDF and HDF boards

Sometimes you can find advice on using boxes made from MDF panels (Medium Density Fiberboard - fibreboards medium density). It is hardly worth following such recommendations, since this material absorbs water vapor well and is not very suitable for wet rooms.

It is much more expedient to cover the structure with HDF sheets (board high density High Density Fiberboard). This material resists moisture well, so structures made from it do not lose their properties for 10 years or more.

Option #5: OSB boards

One more suitable option oriented strand boards (OSB, Oriented Strand Board) - multilayer sheets glued with resins, into which synthetic wax and other additives are added.

There are several varieties of this material. To make boxes, it is best to use OSB3 sheets (with additional impregnation), as well as OSB4 sheets. The latter can be used for especially durable structures or in areas subject to heavy loads.

To construct a box with lining made of OSB, plastic panels, plywood, it is better to construct the box from lumber:

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