Windows made of strong and durable plastic can be found today not only in stone, but also in wooden buildings.
However, their installation in a wooden wall differs significantly from installation in stone structures. The reason for this is the significant shrinkage of wood during the drying period.
For raw material it can reach 6-8% (1.2-1.6 cm per 1 meter of log height).
Drying wood turns into a powerful press that easily deforms the window block. The doors do not open after such an impact, and the frame is severely warped.
It turns out that high-quality installation of plastic windows in a wooden house is not possible - you ask? No, it is quite real, but only if special technology is followed. We will consider this in our article.
How to properly install a plastic window in a wooden wall?
In order to eliminate the pressure of the wall on the window block, the craftsmen came up with special “sleds”, popularly called frames or casings. The idea of this technology is very simple: a vertical protrusion-ridge is made with a chainsaw on the end part of the window opening logs.
A window carriage is placed on it - a wooden beam with a vertical groove cut into it. There is no rigid connection with screws or nails between the opening and the carriage. As a result, due to the sliding tongue-and-groove connection, we get a frame that moves freely along with the drying wall.
Thanks to this original solution, the plastic window installed in the casing is not subject to the destructive forces of deformation of the log house.
The pigtail performs several important functions in a wooden wall:
- prevents logs from moving from the vertical;
- does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the log house;
- strengthens the wall in the window opening area.
Now let's take a closer look at how to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands using a casing box.
Features of installing plastic windows in wooden walls
You need to be very careful when cutting the ridge at the ends of the window opening, marking it using a level. Any deviation from the vertical and any inaccuracies in the tongue-groove joint will negatively affect the operation of the socket, disrupting its free movement along the wall.
Having made the ridge cutouts, you can begin making window carriages. These are planed wooden blocks with a cross section of 150x100 mm. At their ends it is necessary to make cutouts measuring 5x5 cm for inserting horizontal jumpers (150x50 mm board with two tenons at the ends).
When making a casing, keep in mind that its assembled height should be 7-8 cm less than the height of the window opening. If you make a casing without such a gap, then the upper crowns, when the wall shrinks, will put pressure on the box, deforming it.
In order to correctly insert a plastic window in a wooden house, you need to adhere to the sequence of operations established by experienced craftsmen.
First you need to cover the ridges of the window opening with tow and secure it with a stapler or small nails. This is necessary to insulate the joint and eliminate squeaks. After this, the lower lintel of the frame is placed in the window opening. Then carriages (side bars of the casing) are stuffed onto the ridges. The second jumper is inserted into the upper cutout of the carriage and lowered to a horizontal position. Having assembled the box, you need to carefully fasten it with self-tapping screws so that they do not go into the ridges of the log house. Otherwise, the casing will not “work” because the screws will not allow it to slide along the wall.
All cracks remaining in the window opening after installing the frame are tightly clogged with tow. Next, using standard technology, the installation of a plastic window is carried out with all the accompanying operations to ensure protection of the junction area with the casing from moisture, heat loss and noise penetration.
The gap between the frame and the wall of the log house is filled with thin boards wrapped in rolled tow. As the walls shrink, they are knocked out one by one. To do this, remove the top trim (it is attached only to the frame) and, removing the unnecessary “compensation” board, put it back in place.
The finishing of a plastic window in a wooden house is no different from the decorative cladding of a regular frame. It is highly advisable to order not standard white plastic windows, but those covered with a special film that imitates the color and texture of natural wood. They will look natural against the background of a chopped wall. Having completed the insulation and sealing of the joints, the window block with the frame is sheathed inside and outside with wooden casing.
Until now we have talked about the installation of plastic window blocks in new log buildings. But is such technology necessary if we are talking about an old wooden house?
Experienced craftsmen say that a socket is necessary here. The fact is that any log house, even after 5 years of shrinkage and shrinkage, does not stop changing its size. Wood is a living, porous material. Therefore, when it rains outside, the logs and beams swell. During the hot summer, the reverse process occurs and even an old hundred-year-old log house loses several centimeters from its previous “wet” height.
It should be noted that the old window frame is absolutely not suitable for the role of a frame, since it cannot slide along the surface of the wall, compensating for its shrinkage.
Therefore, the owner has two options:
- install plastic windows in a wooden house, reducing the size of existing openings by the width of the casing + gap for sealant;
- keep the same window area, but increase the openings for installing the frames by cutting through the walls.
Concluding our review, let's say that installing a plastic window in a wooden wall is not a very complicated process. With a careful and attentive attitude to the work, it can be done efficiently on your own, without involving “expensive” craftsmen.
Addition to the article
We sometimes receive additional questions that cannot always be answered in the comments. We will answer such questions further and give options for solving a specific problem.
Good afternoon
Installing a plastic window in a log house is clear, but how is a plastic window installed in a house on the pediment, in which an opening for the window is formed from an 80x100mm board?
This installation option is simple. Just before installation, it is advisable to attach an antiseptic 20x20 mm strip along the contour of your box (it will act as a quarter, protecting the polyurethane foam sealant from solar radiation). If you have already made a quarter in the board, then you will not need to install a batten.
We place the plastic window on spacers (to create a gap into which the foam will be blown). After this, we carefully go through the entire contour with sealant. You can additionally secure the window in the opening using metal mounting plates. However, foam alone will hold the window securely.
It has not retreated from the outer edge of the window block, but the house is old, the window block is level and in some places there is a 50 mm board facing the outside of the street, and now it is getting cold. What can be done?
The best option is to remove the window unit and install it in the opening with a quarter space, as shown in the previous diagram.
An acceptable option is to make a thick board around the window block outside the wall so that you get quarters that cover the joint of the window block with the wall from blowing. Seal all leaks and gaps with foam or tow.
Glad to be useful to you again, my friends!
After examining my windows in a wooden house, I came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I had never encountered such a process before, so I made up for the lack of practical experience with the help of other people’s knowledge: I searched through a bunch of forums and websites, and through friends I found people who had already done similar work. Then I made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm for my actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will present everything sequentially.
First of all, I measured the windows and ordered new ones, providing the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, I began dismantling the old frames and then clearing the openings of accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, I installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. I placed the structures in permanent places and secured them. Of course, in reality the process was not so quick and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming about it - I managed it and you can too.
Technology for installing a plastic window in the opening of a wooden house
When installing a plastic double-glazed window into the frame of a wooden house, you cannot do without a level and plumb line - if you want the window sashes to move smoothly, not open under their own weight, or jam. Then never fix a window without making sure – not by eye, but by level – that it is level.
To ensure that the work involved in inserting the window into the opening and leveling does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the leveled structure with mounting fasteners.
The best option is 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you submit your application for the production of double-glazed windows.
There are technical slides for these fastenings on each side of the window, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through it when attaching the frame, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarism - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And tell the installers, if you don’t install them yourself, to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case will the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house be fully justified.
I highly recommend removing the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. This won’t take much time, but it will save a lot of effort: without it, it will become much lighter and directing it to the right place will be easier.
Algorithm for installing a double-glazed window into the opening of a wooden house:
- Having inserted the structure into the frame, insert wood chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
- using a water level, determine the quality of the installation;
- achieve the desired indicator by placing additional chips;
- Use the same pieces of wood to level the frame vertically;
- Having determined the most optimal position, secure the frame to the post with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.
When screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not hit the ridge of the log into which the pigtail rests. To avoid loosening the screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.
After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from bending under the pressure of the hardening foam. If the sashes are not installed before this, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents even in a perfectly installed frame.
After leveling the frame horizontally and vertically, a 2 cm thick gap should remain on each side of the entire structure for filling with foam. The height of the distance between the top panel of the frame and the first log is no less than 5 and no more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent the wood from pressing on the windows after the frame shrinks.
Before pouring the foam, a control check is required to ensure the correct installation of the entire structure. They focus on the “behavior” of the open sash: it should not independently go further than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its weight, and not you.
Here is a short educational program on the topic of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting endeavor.
Self-installation
I wanted to install plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal presentation of my experience in independently installing double-glazed windows in a house made of timber.
Why did I decide to install the windows myself?
There are several reasons:
- for installation you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (with the savings from 2 installed yourself, you can buy a third);
- almost all companies that provide window installation services in wooden houses do not provide any guarantees for their work;
- there is no need to pay for a service that any owner can provide to himself in 2 hours of work.
In order for the installation result to please you for many years, you need to adhere to the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.
Removing old windows
Regardless of who will install new double-glazed windows in a wooden building - you or invited workers - It is permissible to install new structures only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: the window casings in our house were replaced a couple of years ago, so the wood was flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents or chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account that the boxes would remain. If in your case the condition of the frames turns out to be not very good, but your housekeeping will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled items can be used as the basis for a mini-greenhouse.
Don't know how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow either yourself or your employees to break them out “with meat”. You will always have time to use it for firewood. The same applies to glass: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, so take it out first - they will also find a use. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were removed without removing the glass.
How to prepare a place
Walk around the entire perimeter of the frame with a dry brush or clean rag to sweep away anything remaining after dismantling.
Window sill installation
The first to be installed in a permanent place is a plastic window sill., which is “charged” with serving as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence the “legs grow” of the requirement to install it perfectly level and horizontal. A regular building level will help determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position. To adjust its location taking into account the level readings, use cut strips of plastic or wood chips (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). To stabilize the window sill, make a notch on each side of the box, going 8 millimeters deep into the wood.
Secure the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window frame. Fasteners are placed with a two-centimeter indentation from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory backing under each washer. It will prevent the self-tapping screw from breaking through the fabric if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Don't worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply won't be visible.
How to prepare a double-glazed window
I recommend installing a handle before starting installation work. But the film can be removed later - this way there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the surface of the plastic. You only need to tear off the adhesive strip where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, hold its long part parallel to the window sill.
After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When the handle is moved with the end down, the sash will be locked; upward - only the narrow upper part of the window can completely move away from the frame panel.
Having secured the handle to the panel with a pair of bolts, you need to turn it end down. On the side posts, mark the holes for fastenings that will hold the window within the frame.
Window installation
We place the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that on both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the glass unit is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is given to us by the window sill that was previously strengthened in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use a level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.
While the person helping you holds the frame, you must wedge a centimeter-wide spacer bar between the frame and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the structure being fixed at the moment of connecting the glass unit to the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are lazy or forget about the bars, you can cause the window to move to the side during the fastening process. As a result, the doors will then be difficult to open and close.
After wedging in the bars and placing the glass unit strictly according to the level indicators, secure the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them in on each of the four sides.
When inserting a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location is in the free space between the window and the frame itself.
Then, during periods when the house “walks” under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal changes, the windows in it will not warp.
Installing a window in a wooden house using a self-expanding tape in the video:
How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?
First, take care of maintaining the passage of the drain holes - install adjusting plates between them that will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the double-glazed window into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to maintain the integrity of the glass in the frame when the frame will move behind the house in the spring or winter.
If the glass unit fits tightly to the frame (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor should respond by offering an appropriate solution to the problem.
Having inserted a double-glazed window into the box and aligned the first one on four sides with respect to the last one, secure its location with plastic beads with profile spikes. These “spiky” strips are very easy to install: just push them with small taps into the openings. When the bead's spines reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.
Having achieved a fixed and correct placement of the double-glazed window in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with polyurethane foam, treating the cracks from the inside and outside.
Remove any frozen excess by trimming with a knife.
Having made sure that the work was carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the sashes move only under the pressure of your hands, you can begin installing additional fittings, trims and drainage systems.
Secure Installation Rules
All difficulties with installing windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Without taking this factor into account during the installation of plastic structures, be it windows or doors, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new “joinery” fails without even working for a year.
How do wooden houses differ from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture in the first years after the construction of a log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take their final size in the sixth year after their construction. But in some regions the process of “walking” of houses never ends.
On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the double-glazed windows that were installed in the box in such a way that there was only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do owners of wooden houses really need to forget about dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.
First: do not neglect the casing. It is also called a pigtail. Thanks to it, any windows gain independence from the influence, within reasonable limits, of the load-bearing walls of the building. Whether they shrink or become slightly bent, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.
General technical characteristics of the casing:
- will protect the logs from moving away from the vertical in the area of the window opening;
- does not resist vertical shrinkage of the wall;
- takes on all the loads;
- contributes to the strength of the wall in the window opening area.
What is casing? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm in the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such treatment of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare an opening for plastic double-glazed windows, you need to make a ridge at the ends of the logs, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a tongue and groove will ensure that the logs slide without harming the window frame.
What is a window carriage? These are vertical bars with dimensions of 15x10 cm, with notches on the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers topped at the ends with spikes in the form of 15x5 cm planks.
The assembled casing is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. This gap is left due to possible wall shrinkage. When the pigtail is assembled in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither creaks from shrinkage nor drafts from under the window are scary.
Then you need to make the lower jumper and also stuff the carriages onto the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the hole from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the resulting structure’s relative freedom. After All cracks found between the window frame and the walls must be filled with tow.
You can also insert metal-plastic double-glazed windows into this design without fear that they will jam when the house shrinks. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barriers also need to be taken care of.
The gap between the log house and the casing must be filled with thin strips with wound tow fibers.
When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the slats to replace them with new ones. To make this process easier, I strongly recommend attaching the top casing only to the casing. If you need it, carefully remove it, change the filling, and secure it in place.
When I conducted seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window installer to understand the technology of constructing wooden buildings. What's strange about this? Without this, the installer will not be able to install the window in such a way that it will serve without complaints for years. In other cases it is impossible to do without casing.
If you are hired to install plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house, find out the presence of casing. If it is not there, and instead of a frame there will be a frame from an old window, tell the owner that he has two options. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and the windows are smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee for a quality result. Since even old wooden houses always “walk” and to resist this, it is better to always take this factor into account when installing windows. And don’t forget to indicate in the contract that you disclaim all responsibility for the future life of the windows.
We install plastic double-glazed windows in a private house
Remember: all wooden buildings shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.
The strongest shrinkage processes of wood occur in the first two years after the construction of the log house is completed. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to ignore when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.
Why do they make a casing?
The durability of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing is carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperature.
What is casing? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, secured using a certain technology, and only then they install the PVC double-glazed window. The box itself is held inside the opening using side grooves.
In the process, you cannot rely on the technical qualities of polyurethane foam or other fastening methods.
A gap must be left between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, the value of which should be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.
How to make a pigtail:
- inserting wooden beams into specially made grooves (self-tapping screws will then be screwed into the beams);
- cutting out tenons on the edges of the logs in the window opening and forming grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this the “into the deck” technique);
- tenons are made in the sides of the structure, and the ends of the window opening logs are equipped with grooves.
Nuances of preparing a window opening
Do not be intimidated by the work of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert a modern window into a log house of any age with your own hands.
First of all, determine the distance to the window from the floor. The most convenient option is if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then use a distance of 80-90 cm.
Determine the lower and upper boundaries of the window opening using a water level. The top line should be 13 +1.5 cm above the top border of the glass unit, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave an allowance of one and a half centimeters to seal the cracks with construction foam.
Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe extreme accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the double-glazed window itself. Qualitative measurement is one of the most important nuances that affects the quality of all subsequent work on installing a double-glazed window into the window opening.
After bringing the opening to the desired condition, start tenoning the ends of the logs facing the window. The rough window is trimmed with jute on the sides and bottom. Make the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into bars. Make connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the points of convergence along the joints with sealant. Fill the gaps in the window with tow.
For information about casing and trim when installing PVC windows in a wooden house, watch the video:
Installation nuances
The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being ideally pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is secured with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.
It is permissible to install a metal-plastic window of any configuration in an ordinary wooden house, but not made of timber, if you know how to properly frame it, take measurements and select the appropriate fittings.
When selecting tools and other materials, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such “stings” will definitely go beyond the frame and dig into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.
To waterproof the external seam, you can use acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, sealing tape that self-expands after being placed in place, or regular vapor-permeable tape. Such protection will extend the service life of the polyurethane foam and prevent the formation of drafts.
A vapor barrier tape is placed along the inner seam, securing it with special glue. And only then the seam is treated with polyurethane foam.
Installation of plastic windows in wooden houses has its own characteristics, in contrast to installation in an ordinary panel house, the technology of which is described in the main section of this site. For example, the openings of log (timber) houses, as a rule, do not have quarters. But the most important difference is that in the first few years after construction (this does not apply to frame-panel houses), wooden houses tend to shrink as a result of the drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this factor cannot be neglected, because a plastic window installed in the usual way (in a bare opening) will be crushed and deformed by the overlying crowns in the first year. As is known, in the first two years (the most active period of wood drying) after the construction of a house, the amount of wall shrinkage per 1 meter of height can be:
- round log - about 30 - 60 mm;
- timber - about 20 - 40 mm;
- laminated veneer lumber - about 10 - 30 mm.
There are other more frightening figures regarding the shrinkage of log houses: 10 - 15% of the original height. I once saw the following information on one of the construction forums: from the original wall height of 2.3 m, after shrinkage, 2 meters remained. In general, the amount of shrinkage depends on several factors:
- on the material (log, rounded log, timber, laminated timber);
- on the size of the material - both its length and thickness;
- from the moisture content of the material;
- on the size of the building;
- on construction technology (dowel, type of felling, etc.);
- from the type of wood;
- depending on the time of year when construction is carried out.
Log houses made of ordinary logs shrink the most, followed by rounded logs, timber (2 times smaller than a regular log), profiled timber, and laminated veneer lumber (about 10 times smaller than a log).
Even if the house stood up, i.e. has been in operation for more than 5 years, experts still recommend taking into account when installing windows and doors the possibility of vertical movement of walls as a result of seasonal changes in humidity and air temperature. Figuratively speaking, a wooden house is a more vibrant structure compared to urban buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of plastic windows in such cases is carried out not in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a connecting link between the window and the wall. This box is called differently: casing, frame, deck, pigtail. For the purposes of this article we will use the term casing .
First, let's figure out how the casing works and what is the point of using it.
As can be seen from the picture (click to enlarge the picture), the casing is an ordinary window box made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening. The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beams) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held in place by grooves in the side posts mounted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the casing - only tow, jute (flax batting) and other soft insulation. Please note: a large gap is specially left above the casing, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible amount of shrinkage of the logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (beam) of the opening, if calculated correctly, will not press down or deform the casing. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the casing in any way, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window located inside it.
If you decide to install plastic windows in an old wooden house that has long gone through the shrinkage process, then, when disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. They are not nailed to the logs of the opening, but are fixed in it using a simple tongue-and-groove system on the sides. This suggests that the technology for installing windows and doors in casing was invented a very long time ago, and is used successfully to this day. We will not invent anything new and will follow the same path.
There are several ways to install casing:
- into the embedded block- a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, a block is placed into it, into which self-tapping screws are screwed through the side posts of the casing;
- in the thorn- when the tenon is on the side casing posts, and the groove is made at the ends of the opening logs;
- into the deck- the tenon is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side casing posts).
We will use the last option - into the deck, since it determines the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the casing not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.
Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:
- We cut out an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which significantly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;
- we manufacture and install casing in the opening;
- we install the plastic window into the casing, aligning it flush along the front edge, or recessing it a little inside (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such length that they do not penetrate through the casing and do not go into the logs);
- we foam the gap between the plastic window frame and the casing, not forgetting about the installation of waterproofing (outside) and vapor barrier (inside) of the foam seam;
- we install external platbands (we attach them to the casing);
- We carry out the interior finishing of the window (window sill, slopes).
We use foam only inside the casing. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional tow. Over the next 5 years (if the house is newly built), we will have to periodically remove the platbands and re-caulk the upper gap above the casing, gradually reducing the volume of insulation put in there. Only after the house has completely settled, the gaps around the casing, if desired, can be sealed with foam from the outside.
Preparing the opening
Before cutting, we mark the window opening using a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly level in all planes, therefore the casing must also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible according to the level initially. The lower crown in the opening must be sawn through, as shown in the figure, to create a flat horizontal platform.
We determine the dimensions of the opening based on the size of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps. I suggest using 100 mm for the thickness of the bars.
Opening width ( W opening) will be equal to the width of the plastic window frame ( W frame) plus 40 mm (two side gaps of 20 mm to the right and left of the frame) plus 200 mm (thickness of two side casing posts of 100 mm each) + 30 mm (thickness of insulation on the sides of the casing and correction for unevenness of the side walls of the opening) minus 50 mm (the ends of the tenons at the ends of the logs are recessed into the grooves of the posts, 25 mm each on the right and left):
W opening = W frame + 220 (mm)Opening height ( H opening) will be equal to the height of the plastic window frame ( H frame) plus 30 mm (gap under the frame) plus 20 mm (gap above the frame) plus 180 mm (thickness of two casing crossbars of 100 mm each, minus two connecting grooves of 10 mm each) + 15 mm (thickness of insulation under the casing and correction for unevenness lower cut of the opening) plus the upper shrinkage gap ( H estate):
H opening = H frames + H shrinkage + 245 (mm).Shrinkage gap size ( H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage of a house, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, roughly calculate, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window with a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing crossbars, plus installation gaps of ~ 245 mm) with 15 percent shrinkage, the top gap will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which will most likely end up being too large. To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values of building materials of various wood species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc. You can do it simpler, namely:
- If you are building a new house, then start glazing it no earlier than six months after the roof is erected in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, when manufacturing and installing the casing, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 120 mm for a log house, 80 mm for a timber house and 50 mm for a house made of laminated veneer lumber;
- if your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 30 - 40 millimeters, just to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;
- if the house is old and long established, you can abandon the casing altogether, but it is still advisable to strengthen the opening after dismantling the old blocks by nailing a couple of boards to the ends of the logs on the sides of the opening.
So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it and cut it out. Now you need to cut out a tenon at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The tenon is also marked using a level in the center of the log (beam). We make the tenon size 40x40 mm. We cover the sides and bottom of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.
Manufacturing of casing
First, you need to decide on the width of the casing bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be a little larger, so that later, when installing external platbands, they (the platbands) fit tightly and unhindered on the casing, and not on the wall. Secondly, to make the casing you need to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will soon deform as it dries.
First, we cut out the top (top) and bottom (window sill) crossbars, making them 30 mm shorter than the width of the opening (excluding tenons). At the ends of the top and window sill we cut out a groove for a tenon 50 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We also make small 10 mm recesses at the ends of both crossbars for joining the crossbars with the side posts.
We make the side posts 70 mm higher than the height of the plastic window frame. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut out a groove for a tenon 50 mm wide and 40 mm deep.
Casing installation
We begin installing the casing in the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then the top is inserted into the opening, under which we place the side posts one by one, placing them with grooves on the tenons. We fasten the casing elements together with self-tapping screws and coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow. We close the upper shrinkage gap with a roll of tow wrapped in flax wool (jute). Now you can begin installing the window.
We install the plastic window, aligning it along the front edge of the casing or slightly recessing it into the house. There is no need to place a window inside a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, due to the lower thermal conductivity coefficient of wood (smaller freezing depth). Moreover, given the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, by deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to trim the already narrow window sill.
If you calculated the dimensions of the opening and casing as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame should be 20 mm on the sides, 20 mm on the top and 30 mm on the bottom (we make the bottom gap larger so that it will be possible to later install a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 20 mm).
It is more convenient to fasten the frame to the casing using self-tapping screws measuring 6x100 or 6x120 mm, placing them in the same pattern as when fastening with anchors. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm. Using self-tapping screws longer than 120 mm is dangerous because they will pass through the casing and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.
Provided that all preparatory work has been done using a level, the window frame should fit exactly along the casing, i.e. the front edge of the casing should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.
External waterproofing
Before foaming the gap between the window and the casing, we need to decide what material we will use to waterproof the installation seam on the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If we can simply cover the installation seam with platbands or flashings from the sun's rays, then with waterproofing the situation is more complicated, because it must meet two basic conditions: not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering. All these conditions meet such materials as, waterproofing vapor permeable tape and special sealant.
Sealant "STIZ-A"- a one-component, vapor-permeable white acrylic sealant for sealing the outer layer - characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, among others. It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at temperatures as low as -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find in small containers, and buying a whole bucket makes sense when you are installing a lot of windows. If you choose “STIZ-A” as external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, we cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.
Waterproofing vapor permeable tape(self-adhesive butyl rubber tape, consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with an adhesive layer of sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, ensure it is oriented correctly when gluing. You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (don’t forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, air passage is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to “blow through” the tape is the outer (street) side. The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not matter much, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding when drying, not only stretches the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing platbands), but in general it can tear it away from the window or casing. Therefore, if you first stick the tape, then screw the platbands or hard strips on top of it immediately, and only then foam it. Or foam first, wait for the foam to dry completely (24 hours), cut off the excess and straightaway To avoid exposing the foam cut to prolonged weathering, apply tape.
Pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, due to which it is waterproofing and vapor permeable. Supplied compressed, rolled into rollers. If you choose PSUL tape, then buy one that expands more than 30 mm. The PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end next to the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to cover the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work. The installation seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has completely expanded and closed the installation gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding as it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL on the street side with platbands or flashings.
Internal vapor barrier
On the inside, the foam should also not remain open to prevent moisture from entering it from the air in the room. For internal vapor barrier installations, you can use vapor barrier tape, which has already been discussed in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11(“STIZ-B”).
It is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the casing. Before the foam under the tape hardens, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise later the tape “bloated” with foam will interfere with this.
It is applied to the hardened foam, or more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install the window sills and the starting profile, as when using tape. Nothing will prevent you from doing this later, when it is convenient.
Interior window decoration
The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes to install the slopes - we fasten everything with self-tapping screws into the wood (into the casing). There is also no need to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam plastic or other material. To be on the safe side, before installing the slopes, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the installation seam. This will be enough, because wood does not freeze as deeply as concrete or brick.
Casing, window sill and slopes - three in one
This method of installing a window allows you to save on slopes and window sills, save time and achieve, in my opinion, a greater aesthetic effect, but for this you will need a good woodworking machine to evenly cut out the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, into which the plastic window will be installed .
What a reverse quarter is can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which the window frame will be installed on the street side. Quarter depth - 25 mm. The width is made 3-5 mm larger than the thickness of the frame, for example: a 5-chamber VEKA has a profile thickness of 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 73-75 mm. It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the casing and window, carefully assemble the casing and install the casing into the opening exactly at the level - the internal clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all edges of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without distortion. In order not to make a mistake in the dimensions, it is better to first manufacture and install the casing, and only then accurately measure and order a plastic window on site.
Let's consider how the window will be installed in the casing with a reverse quarter.
Let's assume that the casing is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made such that it is slightly larger than the “clearance” of the casing, or more precisely: 14 mm more in width and the same in height. Such a window will not fit into the casing from the inside, but it will easily fit into the reverse quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 7 mm on each side (this is no longer possible - the sash hinges will interfere), and an installation gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam. The frame is attached to the casing with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful tight connection between the frame and the casing on the room side, we use a D-shaped door seal. We glue it before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. When attaching the frame, we press it tightly against the quarter, squeezing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window is foamed from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with waterproofing tape or sealed with “STIZ-A” sealant, and the trim is installed.
Of course, since we refuse to decorate the casing with any additional elements, we must refine it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.
First of all, you need to give the bottom crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.
Secondly, we “dawn” the internal surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross-section) shape of these elements and create a large chamfer, simulating a reversal of the slopes.
Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options here: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and coat it with varnish. You can cover the wood with stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and/or the color of the walls.
There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more expensive option - to brush the surface, i.e. antiqued treatment.
Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood using a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of lint and fibers, then the final gloss is given. You can immediately varnish the wood, but “aged” wood will look much more impressive after treating it with stain of the color you want. However, there is an even more effective way of painting - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface. This is achieved using paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth before the paint has had time to dry. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. You can then rub the surface with a soft cloth to add shine.
As practice shows, plastic windows (PVC or Euro-windows with double-glazed windows) have higher energy saving rates than ordinary wooden ones. For this, as well as a number of other reasons, PVC windows are increasingly preferred when constructing or reconstructing a wooden house.
Of course, this is a controversial preference, however, we will not figure out which windows are better - wooden or plastic.
In this article we will look at how to independently install plastic windows in a wooden house (as well as a log house made of logs or timber). Let's do this using the example of the most common installation method.
The window installation process consists of several stages:
- Dismantling old windows in a wooden house
- Preparing openings for installing new windows
The disassembly process is most often not particularly difficult. To work, you will need a saw (chainsaw, electric saw), an axe, a nail puller or a crowbar.
If the windows are old and the window frames are rotten and worthless, then you can mercilessly destroy everything and everyone, without caring about the safety of the latter.
If the window frames are in good condition, then carefully remove them, after removing the glass. These frames can be used to construct a greenhouse, gazebo or other construction needs.
When dismantling old windows, be sure to follow safety precautions when working with cutting and chopping tools; use safety glasses when working with saws. Before sawing the structure, make sure there are no nails or any metal pins - this will save the tool (saw band) and protect you from possible injuries, since when the saw jams, it is quite difficult to hold it in your hands.
Preparing openings for installing new windows
After removing the frame, you need to make sure that the window opening is suitable for installing a new window. Namely, check the condition of the wood of the window frame, the absence of signs of rot, wormholes, cracks, chips and other damage. It is recommended to treat it with protective compounds. If the window frame is not suitable for further use, then it must be replaced with a new one. For this you will need a good, dried planed board. The corners can be fastened with locks (for example, mortise-tenon), or you can simply twist them using self-tapping screws of sufficient length. It is imperative to treat the structure with protective compounds.
When replacing a window frame, you can carry out an inspection and, if necessary, replace steam-waterproofing, insulation materials, and check the condition of the material (wood) in the window opening of the wall.
It may be necessary to replace some sections of the opening. For example, in log houses, the areas of logs located under the window opening are most often affected. In this case, the damaged areas are cut out and replaced with pieces of logs of suitable size. The replaced areas are secured depending on the possibilities - with staples, long s’mores, wooden locks (mortise-tenon).
Be sure to treat the replaced area with protective compounds.
Installation of windows in a window frame (for logged wooden houses, installation of a window frame is carried out using a frame or casing) is the most correct way to install windows. Thus, the rigidity of the opening is maintained and a strong base frame is created. But at the same time, the window itself will be able to self-regulate with seasonal fluctuations in the house (shrinkage, movement, etc.).
During installation, the window frame is leveled.
Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house
After preparation, we proceed to the window installation process itself.
First of all, we separate the window frame from the sashes; if the window is solid, we remove the double-glazed window. We do not remove the protective film from the windows - it will protect the profile from possible damage and scratches.
Window sill installation
If you need to install a window sill, we install it first. When installing, we adjust the plane using a level and backing plates (pieces of wood, plywood, etc.).
If the window sill is also made of PVC, then you need to place a washer under the head of the screw (so that when screwing it in, the screw does not fall into the cavity of the window sill). We screw the screws into the places located under the future frame (so that it is beautiful and the caps are not visible). But most often, the lower wide board of the window frame serves as a window sill, and therefore the installation of an additional window sill is not required.
Frame fitting
We place the frame on blocks about 1 cm thick and check the level for correct installation. Be sure to leave a gap of at least 1 cm on the sides and install small blocks between the frame and the window frame. They will prevent the frame from moving horizontally, prevent possible deformation of the frame during installation, and allow the window frame to be securely fastened to the window frame.
We check the flatness of the surface of the wall (window frame) and frame, not allowing the frame to protrude beyond the boundaries of the window frame.
Window frame installation
We fasten the frame using long screws to the window frame, being careful not to overtighten the screw. After installing the frame, we hang the sashes and install double-glazed windows (in blind windows).
When installing a double-glazed window into a profile, it is necessary that there is a gap of about 5-7 mm between the double-glazed window and the profile. This will prevent the glass from warping and cracking in case of possible deformations of the profile (frame) during operation (seasonal fluctuations of the building, possible distortions during shrinkage and during operation).
Vertical adjustment is made using adjustment plates.
Double-glazed window installation
Next, using a plastic bead, the double-glazed window is fixed in the PVC profile. The tenon of the bead should fit into the groove on the frame until it clicks. The connection should be made by lightly tapping the glazing bead with a wooden or rubber mallet or hammer.
Window foaming
Next, we foam the space between the window frame and the frame. We wait until the foam hardens. During this period of time, it is not recommended to open or ventilate the window to prevent frame deformation from foam expansion.
After the foam has hardened, we cut off the excess and can proceed to finishing with platbands.
Installation of plastic windows in a wooden houseVideo
The last stage is removing the protective film, the window is ready for use.