In this part of the article about the construction of an extension to the house, we will talk about the internal insulation of the ceiling, walls and floor.
Fortunately, I have many friends whose hands grew from where they should. It is fortunate that each of them specializes in a certain type of work. Having decided to insulate the newly built rooms from the inside, I called for help from a former classmate who specializes in apartment renovation.
Plasterboard ceiling and wall cladding
Sheathing the walls with drywall slabs allows not only to insulate the room, but also to level the walls, as well as to achieve significant sound insulation. Having once invested finances and labor in insulation, you will save on heating every year.
There is also a drawback to this construction procedure: wall cladding steals part of the usable area from the room.
Internal work of this kind can be done at any time of the year, especially if the room is heated. Minor temperature changes are not terrible for ready-made drywall sheets. It so fortunately coincided that during the winter we managed to completely sheathe one of the rooms.
We started with the installation of profiles on the ceiling. For this reason, strictly according to the level, the narrow starting profiles of UD were screwed with dowels on two opposite walls just at the junction of the walls with the ceiling. Wooden ceiling beams, to which the wide main SD profiles will be attached, go from window to window, so the starting profiles, in order to attach to the beams, must run perpendicular to them.
This means that the starting profiles will be fixed parallel to the beams, in the position of the letter P outward. The main profiles, on the contrary, are fixed with self-tapping screws to wooden beams in the position of the letter P inward. On the ceiling, both edges of each segment of the main profile of the SD entered the groove of the profile of the starting UD and were fixed in them with short screws.
The distance between the profiles on the ceiling is 40cm, on the walls 60cm.
I think the principle is clear - it is much more difficult to keep even fixed plates in a horizontal position on the ceiling than when they are in a vertical position. Therefore, we will screw them on the ceiling more often, i.e. safer than on the walls.
When calculating the location of the profiles, it is necessary to take into account the size of the drywall sheets, because the joint of the sheets must fall in the middle of the width of the profile so that the drywall can be fixed. The dimensions of 40 and 60 cm were not chosen by chance, they are due to the width of the plasterboard, which is 120 cm.
The profiles are fixed on the walls and ceiling with suspension plates (I chose the universal 60/125 because of the length reserve). Each suspension was fixed with two dowels to each wooden ceiling beam, and on the walls after 40 centimeters. This figure is not strict, it is better to attach it to a foam concrete block and brick than to cement joints between them.
Due to the curvature of the walls, the same part of the profile adjoins the wall either closely or at a slight distance. Therefore, the next operation was the vertical alignment of the profile at a one and a half meter level. Having aligned the profile, both edges of the suspension were bent along its perimeter. The suspension was attached to the SD with small self-tapping screws, popularly called "fleas".
Part of the suspension plate on both sides of the profile remains free. It can be cut, but it is easier to bend back against the wall. In the case of glass wool insulation, they will serve as its additional holders.
The profiles are made of soft metal, so at the junctions of the edges of one part of the profile we slightly crush with our hands and slide a couple of centimeters into the other part, fixing everything with the same “fleas”. Basically, there is no waste left.
If the ceiling profiles are aligned with the starting profile UD, then the two outermost ones are first mounted on the walls, the rest are aligned along them.
Ease of delivery, relative cheapness, ease of installation - these are the positive characteristics of this building material. What else drywall is good for is the ability to mark levels on its surface with a pencil, the projection of profiles, the places of screwing with metal screws.
They worked mainly as a screwdriver. Cut drywall with a special knife for drywall and foam. In appearance, it is the same as a stationery for cutting paper, only a larger size, thickness and length of the blade.
The sheet size is 1.2 m by 2.5 m, and the height is 2.35 m, the width and length of the smaller room are 3 and 4.2 m. Therefore, a lot of trimmings are obtained that have to be adjusted above / below windows, pipes. It is also good to work with solid sheets because only vertical profiles (on the walls) are needed for them. When you “sculpt” the trimmings, you have to additionally install horizontal profiles to securely fasten each piece of drywall around the entire perimeter. But in the end, drywall plates create a flat surface. It will become ideal after puttying, then the joints of the plates and the caps of the screws will not be visible.
On the inner interior wall, I considered the insulation superfluous, but because of its curvature, I decided to level the surface with drywall on one side.
The Izover I bought is wound into rolls of two layers. Unwinding the roll, you get a sheet 5 cm thick, which is easily stratified into two sheets, each 2.5 cm thick. It is worth noting that this nuance is very prudently conceived by the manufacturer. Buying one roll, you will not puzzle over the problem of more / less insulation. For example, I laid sheets 5 cm thick on the ceiling, since only the roof protects the building from above, and 2.5 cm on the walls, since they are already insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam and half the thickness of Izover will be enough.
I used this material before, insulating the roof of the barn with it. This is a light mineral wool, which is convenient to cut with the same drywall knife.
Since the roof is shed, we began to attach drywall in small pieces from the side of the ceiling above which the lower edge of the roof is located. The clearance there is minimal, therefore, having fixed the first row of narrow strips of drywall, we immediately slipped the same narrow piece of Isover between it and the roof. Further, solid sheets of drywall were fixed on the ceiling, since the distance to the roof became decent, and it was realistic to lay large pieces of Izover across the entire width of the room.
The same song with wall insulation, but the inconvenience here is of a different nature: the insulation must be held in a vertical position until we fix the drywall sheet. As it turned out, this issue is solved by the primitive engagement of the Isover edges with the profiles. We cut Izover with a width equal to the distance between the profiles fixed on the walls.
The result of work on internal insulation
Internal insulation made itself felt literally the next day after we finished the work. At night, I left the radiator on in the middle position in the room. In the morning the thermometer showed +24°C, despite the fact that the temperature outside was -5°C.
I hope the effect of "thermos" and in the summer heat will keep cool indoors.
Insulation of the extension is a great opportunity to increase the usable area of the building, reduce the consumption of electricity or gas for heating. With the increase in heating prices, a reasonable owner tries in every possible way to minimize costs and keep the heat indoors as much as possible. For greater cost savings, you can insulate an extension to a private house with your own hands, using photo instructions from the Internet for this.
In order not to panic with the onset of cold weather, it is necessary to choose a seal that is resistant to moisture and temperature extremes.
Material selection
The best option for the material used is foam sheets. They are light, so they are quite easy to transport and attach to the walls from the outside and from the inside.
In order to insulate the roof of the cinder block extension, it is better to choose polystyrene foam. The peculiarity of this material is its low vapor permeability and high thermal insulation even in conditions of high humidity. Such material will last for many years, since fungi and mold do not appear on it, it is not subject to decay, it is fire resistant.
In a house made of timber, a large loss of heat occurs through the ceiling. Therefore, when planning to insulate a wooden extension to the house, start from the ceiling. It is good to use eco-wool for finishing floors. This relatively new material allows you to close the cracks tightly, rodents and microbes do not live in it, it has excellent sound insulation and consists exclusively of natural components.
To preserve heat in a veranda attached to a brick house, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of windows and floors. To do this, treat the gaps near the windows with mounting foam, and insulate the floor with polyurethane foam and make a screed. Polyurethane foam is resistant to moisture and steam; a thin enough layer to keep the maximum heat in the room; easily transported; has good grip on any surface.
A well-executed project will help to calculate the required amount of thermal insulation raw materials at the planning stage. To insulate an extension to the house, it is recommended to lay a layer of the selected insulation of the same thickness on all surfaces.
To date, there are a large number of videos that will help the homeowner independently carry out all the necessary work.
In this video you can see how best to insulate the wooden floor in the extension:
You can also see .
The country veranda (closed and open), if desired, can turn from summer to winter, i.e. from cold to warm. From the veranda you can make an entrance hall, a corridor in the house, a full-fledged room or a winter garden, a greenhouse, in general, a warm room that can be used all year round. Therefore, it will be useful to learn how to insulate the veranda for winter living. Below is a step-by-step instruction with photos, drawings and diagrams.
Which side to insulate the veranda - from the inside or outside
Insulation of a cold veranda begins with the choice of insulation and its installation location. As a rule, the veranda has a beautiful exterior and interior decoration. And deciding which side to hide under the insulation is not easy.
To make a final and balanced choice, we offer arguments in favor of one or another type of insulation.
Insulation of the veranda from the inside
Advantages:
- can be performed in any weather;
- free access to surfaces at any height;
- in one approach, you can insulate all surfaces: walls, ceiling, floor.
Flaws:
- requires the dismantling of the existing coating;
- the freezing point is shifted into the wall, which leads to its destruction.
Insulation of the veranda from the outside
- the way of life caused by repair work is not violated;
- all garbage remains outside the veranda;
- preservation of the veranda area;
- displacement of the freezing point into the insulation, which reduces the rate of destruction of the walls, and the walls can accumulate heat;
- veranda decoration. A veranda sheathed with OSB boards or plywood can be transformed after insulation with subsequent finishing.
External insulation of a wooden veranda made of timber or logs will protect the wood from getting wet, preserve the interior of the extension, and make it possible to update the facade. Among the minuses: deprivation of the opportunity to observe the state of the veranda-log house from the street.
How to insulate the veranda - materials
With the existing variety of thermal insulation materials, the choice still remains difficult. However, among the well-established are:
1. Penofol
Flexible foil insulation Penofol can be used as an independent heat-insulating material or in combination with other types of insulation.
The material is environmentally friendly, thin, low vapor permeability, easy to install and fireproof. Among the minuses: softness, small thickness.
2. Styrofoam
Rigid material with low weight, which does not change its properties during the period of operation. Easily mounted in both frame and frameless way. Disadvantages: interest for rodents and flammability.
Note. Insulating the veranda with foam plastic saves the owner from installing a hydro and vapor barrier, because. polystyrene has almost zero indicators of hygroscopicity and vapor permeability.
3. Styrofoam
It has all the advantages of foam, and is also very durable, easy to cut. Cons: low sound insulation, collapses at high temperatures (more than 100 ° C), does not burn, but self-extinguishing does not occur.
4. Mineral wool
Flexible (soft) insulation with low thermal conductivity, non-combustible, compressive (for dense types) and tensile strength, provides excellent sound insulation, and is resistant to temperature deformations. Mineral wool is resistant to chemical and biological activity. Cons: needs a frame, loses density over time (caking), which means that thermal insulation properties decrease.
5. Basalt wool
According to the characteristics, the material is identical to mineral wool, while being environmentally friendly.
6. Polyurethane foam (PPU)
Polyurethane foam insulation is available in three varieties:
- Dense (solid, rigid) panels
- Flexible (soft) plates
- Inflatable (sprayed)
Among the advantages: light weight, ease of installation and application, resistance to chemical and biological activity. Cons: expensive, deteriorates from mechanical stress, subject to aging when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.
Note. The low rate of vapor permeability of PU foam in the slabs will lead to the accumulation of moisture and the destruction of wall surfaces or structural elements.
7. Flax, tow, moss
Materials designed to insulate the veranda from timber and logs without disturbing the appearance of the building.
Flax, tow, moss are absolutely environmentally friendly, but difficult to install. In addition, they are desirable prey for birds that use materials to build their nests.
Note. Warming with these insulators is best done at the stage of building a veranda.
8. Synthetic insulation for construction
Polymer insulation eliminates the disadvantages inherent in natural materials. For example, the construction of a veranda using warm house technology.
Do-it-yourself warming of the veranda to the house
If you are going to insulate the veranda, you need to remember that insulating only one surface will not give the expected result. After all, heat escapes from it in different directions.
Floor insulation on the veranda
1 way:
we remove the boards of the existing floor and the subfloor (as well as floor coverings: linoleum, laminate);
we fall asleep expanded clay between the lags;
re-laying the floor.
2 way:
we dismantle the flooring or perform work on the existing floor. Then it will perform the function of a rough coating;
we install wooden bars 50x50 on the logs or on the subfloor;
Note. The thickness of the timber should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Before installation, the beam is covered with a protective compound.
laying a vapor barrier film;
we lay a heater (for example, mineral wool). We make sure that there is no free space between the frame and the insulation. If there is one, it must be filled with scraps of material and blown out with foam;
from above, we cover the material with a vapor barrier or penofol. The foil part of the material turns inside the room. The junction is glued with metallized tape (for example, Isospan Isospan).
install flooring.
Additionally, you can perform insulation of the foundation of the veranda.
Veranda roof insulation
A significant part of the heat escapes through the roof of the veranda (the heat loss of the roof depends on the design and material). How to insulate the roof of the veranda - from the inside or outside? A simple shed roof does not have an attic, so it is difficult to move around on it. To perform insulation, you need to dismantle the roofing material. Therefore, the roof of the veranda is insulated at the construction stage or from the side of the ceiling.
Veranda ceiling insulation
It differs in the same sequence of actions as floor insulation. Only the canopy has to do the work. This creates some difficulties in the installation of insulation.
How to insulate the ceiling on the veranda - methods
1 way - wireframe
you need to dismantle the ceiling covering, if it is drywall and replace it with plywood or OSB;
a hydrobarrier film is attached to the surface of the ceiling;
for soft insulation, a frame is made of timber (the thickness of the timber is equal to the thickness of the insulation);
insulation is installed between the bars of the frame.
Note. With a soft insulation width of 600 mm. it is recommended to make the distance between the bars of the frame 580-590 mm. This makes it easier to install.
the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film;
the ceiling is decorated with plasterboard or lining.
2 way - frameless
Suitable for polyurethane foam and rigid insulation. In this case, the insulation is installed directly on the ceiling. Then the surface of the ceiling must be puttied.
Note. Before puttying the ceiling, the foam must be closed with a mesh. This way the mixture will hold better.
Insulation of the walls of the veranda
It can also be done in two ways: frame and frameless. Work is carried out in the same order as with floor insulation.
How to insulate a wooden porch
Many are interested in the result of external insulation. The natural beauty of wooden lining will be hidden under a layer of insulation. Professionals recommend dismantling the existing finish, performing insulation, and then installing the lining in place. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out dismantling carefully so as not to damage the lamellas. However, part of the lumber will still have to be replaced. You can even out the difference in shades between the old and new lining by sanding the board.
Insulation of a wooden veranda in a house made of timber and logs
It is carried out by driving natural insulation into cracks (caulking, sealing cracks between logs).
Warming the house using the "warm seam" technology - video
If the veranda from the timber has lost its attractiveness, then the insulation occurs by mounting the frame outside the extension. A heater (heat-insulating material) is inserted inside the frame and sewn up with facing material (for example, lining, siding).
Insulation of veranda windows
Wooden windows can be insulated if they are protected from the outside of the building with a film. At the same time, space must be left between the window and the film. This gap (air cushion) will prevent the accumulation of moisture and the destruction of the wooden frame. The film is attached to the frame using a construction stapler. The disadvantage of film insulation is that the transparency of the window decreases, so it is removed for the warm season.
Note. Users advise that when insulating windows with a film, fill the rails on the frame, and attach the film to them. The film will be removed in the spring, but the slats will remain. Thus, the wood frame is not destroyed as much when mounting/dismantling the film.
Warming the veranda, made in accordance with all the rules, will significantly save heat and increase the temperature in the room. According to user reviews, the temperature in the insulated veranda does not drop below zero. Of course, this is clearly not enough for everyday use. Installing heaters will solve the problem.
Heating of the veranda
Installing portable electric heaters is the easiest and cheapest way to solve the issue of heating an extension. The device of full-fledged heating on the veranda requires the development of a project, its approval in the relevant authorities (depending on the type of heating), the performance of work on the heating main, etc. It is easier to install a UFO or an electric heater on the veranda. The main thing is to follow the rules of fire safety.
If you properly insulate the veranda and choose a good heater that matches the area, the extension will become a room that can be used all year round.
Warming the veranda with your own hands requires certain time and material costs. But it makes it possible to obtain additional square meters of living space. And also, this is an opportunity to practice before performing the insulation of the house.
Everyone who has a country house, no matter whether it is a simple country house or a respectable cottage, eventually comes to the thought that it would not be bad to slightly increase its usable area. Someone needs a garage, someone is ripe for a bath, but someone just lacks a few square meters for a small vestibule in front of the entrance to the house. Everyone's goals are different. But there is only one way to achieve these goals, in the vast majority of cases: this is the construction of a small one-story extension, closely adjacent to the main building.
And, which is very surprising, but, nevertheless, is a fact - all the owners of the houses want to make this extension as soon as possible (until the summer is over). And everyone makes the same mistakes over and over again. One of the most common mistakes, or rather, avoidance, is the installation of poor-quality thermal insulation of the attached premises. This error is indeed widespread, and is explained very simply. Not all summer residents and gardeners, by virtue of their profession, are associated with construction, and therefore forgetting in the summer about the need to insulate the walls of the room is a couple of trifles for them. The most interesting thing is that everyone who, for some reason, did not insulate the walls of a wooden extension during construction, will have to do this sooner or later, and therefore, they will have to spend time collecting and studying relevant information. Therefore, if you feel that the construction of your extension is just around the corner - take a couple of minutes and read this article to the end.
So, we are learning to insulate the premises of an already erected extension.
First of all, it is necessary to determine how the room will be insulated - from the outside or from the inside. Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to do this and that. However, in relation to the summer cottage sector, the simplest and most economical option is internal insulation. On that we will decide - we will insulate our extension from the inside.
The next step is the choice of insulation. For an extension, a sufficient thickness of the insulation is 50-75 mm. The most favorite type of insulation among summer residents is mineral wool boards. I will not waste my and your precious time on a detailed review of the corresponding segment of the domestic building materials market, but will immediately indicate those manufacturers that produce the best (in terms of price-quality ratio) heat-insulating materials based on mineral wool:
- ISOVER;
- Rockwool;
- "URSA";
- "Izorok".
Price for 1 sq. m of mineral wool insulation from the above manufacturers lies in the range of 65-90 rubles.
Dealt with the heater. But one heater is not enough. Here is a list of other materials that will be needed for the internal insulation of our extension:
- Wooden blocks (slats) of rectangular section 5x2 cm in size;
- Pasting waterproofing (film or membrane), necessary to protect the insulation from moisture ingress. The cost of waterproofing is approximately 20-40 rubles per 1 sq. m.;
- Plasterboard sheets (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5-12.5 mm for the outer finishing sheathing of insulated walls. The average cost is 70-80 rubles. for 1 sq.m.;
- Profiled and fastening metal elements (for the manufacture of the frame and fastening sheets of plasterboard);
- A little putty for sealing joints between drywall sheets.
The materials are complete. All that is left is to mount them correctly. The procedure for proper insulation of the extension is as follows:
- Lathing device: we nail wooden bars or boards to the inner surface of the walls and ceilings of our premises (see item 1 of the list of materials) in increments of 50-75 cm (the increment is equal to the width of our heat-insulating plates);
- Installation of insulation: on the crate of wooden bars we lay mineral wool boards (both on the walls and on the ceiling);
- Waterproofing device: the surface of the mounted insulation boards is glued over the entire area with waterproofing (see paragraph 2 of the list of materials);
- Installation of a frame for gypsum boards (see item 4 of the list of materials): on top of the waterproofing coating of walls and ceilings, we mount horizontal and vertical metal profiles, on which the outer plasterboard sheathing will subsequently be held;
- Sheathing of walls and ceilings with plasterboard sheets (see item 3 of the list of materials);
- Sealing joints between sheets of drywall with putty, followed by stripping;
- Finishing the inner surface of walls and ceilings (optional): painting, tiling or any other type of finish to your taste.
That's actually all! The total cost of materials for insulating the premises of a wooden extension with an area of 3x4 m and a height of 2.7 m is approximately 8-10 thousand rubles.
It is necessary to be able to distinguish a veranda from a terrace.
Most often, wood is used to build country houses and summer cottages. Buildings made of wood are very easy and quick to assemble. If such a building is well and properly insulated, then living in it will be very comfortable even in winter.
Very often, the owners, on their own, attach a veranda to the house, where you can relax on a warm evening or hide from the scorching sun during the day.
But in cold and damp weather, this additional structure is practically not used.
To make the room more comfortable even in winter, you need to think about how to properly insulate the completed veranda from the inside, possibly with your own hands.
People sometimes confuse a veranda with a terrace, let's take a short digression and consider what is what.
The terrace is an open area, so it makes no sense to insulate it. The veranda is an additional glazed building, so you should not confuse it with a terrace.
The veranda, like the terrace, is not heated, so the air temperature in it differs little from the temperature outside.
How to perform floor insulation on the veranda
If you are preparing a plan for building your house, it is better to immediately provide a place for a veranda.
Thermal insulation of the floor on the veranda is one of the main stages of the whole process. Click on the photo to enlarge.
Of course, nothing prevents the veranda from being attached later to an already finished house.
But with the first option, it is possible to foresee a built-in veranda in advance and it will be part of your home. And the attached veranda will be located outside the house. Warming, of course, you need both options.
Warming the veranda from the inside should start from the floor. In wooden houses, it is most often made of logs laid on the ground, to which boards are attached.
To properly insulate the floor, you will first need to remove the boards.
Between the lags, place the bars of wood and secure them with screws. And now between the bars we lay the insulation material.
It is best to use mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene as a heater.
It is very important that the insulation tightly fills all the spaces between the lags.
Styrofoam sheets are very easy to fit to any size of lag, as this material is very easy to cut with a knife.
Mineral wool must be insulated with polyethylene or foil before laying. This is necessary so that the insulation does not deteriorate from moisture.
All empty spaces must be filled with special mounting foam.
The height of your insulation structure should be a few millimeters below the floor itself.
Air movement will constantly pass through such a gap, which helps to remove moisture, ventilating the space, and you can avoid wetting and rotting of the floor elements.
At the very end, we put a stretched polyethylene film on the insulation plates, the edges of which are fixed with metallized tape. Only now it is possible to lay the floorboards and proceed to the insulation of other elements of the veranda.
Insulation of walls and ceiling of the veranda
How to insulate the veranda with your own hands, if it is inside the building? In this case, only the outer walls are insulated. The walls that connect the veranda with other rooms no longer need to be insulated.
The structure of the thermal insulation of the walls of the verandas. Click on the photo to enlarge.
Consider now the technique of warming this option.
Initially, all walls must be covered with waterproof material. We glue strips of polyethylene or foil with horizontal lines. We close all the resulting joints with adhesive tape so that there are no gaps for air.
Then, given the size of the slabs of cotton or foam insulation, you need to fill the wooden bars on the walls. And now between them we place a heater, for example, such as mineral wool. Styrofoam can simply be glued to the wall surface using special glue.
Insulation with polyurethane foam
And the easiest way is to insulate the walls with liquid foam, which is called polyurethane foam. This insulation perfectly protects from the cold and will serve you for several decades.
It tends to fill all the flaws and cracks with itself, creating an even layer of coating. But, it is worth noting that it is not cheap, because it is very rarely used for private buildings.
Insulation plates must be wrapped in polyethylene foam. And if you use a heat-reflecting material, then you need to place its metal surface inside.
On top of this design, you can attach finishing material, such as lining and the like.
How to insulate the veranda from the inside so that the room can store heat longer? To do this, you will also need to insulate the ceiling. Everyone already knows that warm air rises. And without meeting a good barrier, it will freely leave the premises. If you insulate the ceiling, then most of the heat supplied to the veranda will remain inside the room.
The ceiling of the veranda is insulated in the same way as the walls. The insulation is insulated from moisture, wooden planks are stuffed to fix the insulation, voids are blown in with special mounting foam, and all this is sewn up with clapboard or other finishing material.
If your veranda is dominated by window frames, we recommend that you install a triple frame structure. Because most of the heat loss comes through the windows.
Before you start insulating the veranda, you need to take care of fire safety. For insulation, it is worth choosing non-combustible materials, such as mineral wool. If a fire occurs, then your veranda, not protected by refractory materials, will flare up at the slightest hit of fire and catch fire in a very short time. Thus, during a fire, the veranda can become a real barrier to the exit of residents.
If you have a terrace, then it is impossible to insulate it. You can simply make an additional structure that will protect you in windy weather.
The review describes the option of internal insulation of the veranda. But it is also possible to perform insulation on the outside of the extension. Such insulation will additionally protect the wooden walls from wind and precipitation. Thus, they are better preserved and will serve you longer.
As you can see, it will not be difficult to do the insulation of the veranda with your own hands, the main thing is to determine in advance what and how to insulate, and then it’s a matter of technology.