Hazel propagation

Tell us how you can propagate hazel and hazel? E. F. Anosov

Hazel, like hazelnuts, reproduces by seeds, layering, hilling shoots, dividing a bush, grafting, and green cuttings. But the varietal characteristics of hazel are fully preserved only during vegetative propagation.

Hazel propagation by seeds

The easiest way to propagate hazel without guaranteeing grade is by seeds (nuts). Well-ripened nuts are used for sowing. Sowing nuts can be done in the fall and after stratification in the spring. Sowing is carried out in well-fertilized beds in open ground or in nurseries to a depth of 4-5 cm. The distance in the row between plants is 8-10 cm, between rows - 15-20 cm. The top of the seed beds is mulched with humus or peat chips 2-3 thick cm. In the case of winters with little snow, seeds sown in the fall do not have time to completely undergo stratification and in the spring they have sparse seedlings or their complete absence. Typically, such seeds undergo complete stratification in the next winter and vigorous shoots are observed in the spring of the second year. Very rarely, individual seeds may sprout in the third year. To avoid this, the seed beds should be warmed using peat, sawdust, humus and further covering with snow. For spring sowing, seeds are stratified in damp sand, peat, sawdust, moss at a low positive temperature of 2-6°C. Seedlings are dug up 2 years after the seeds germinate.

Hazel propagation by layering

In the fall, after the end of the growing season, or early in the spring, before the start of the growing season, hazel bushes are cut down as low as possible. This leads to the formation of numerous young shoots during the summer. Around the bush with the resulting shoots, grooves are dug 30-40 cm deep, along the bottom of which shoots are bent, secured with wooden hooks or pins. First, an incision is made at the bend site (about a quarter of the thickness of the shoot). The ends of the branched shoots coming out are tied to a peg. In this case, it is important that the tops tied to the pegs rise above the ground by at least 10 cm. The upper part of the shoot at the height of the fifth or sixth bud is cut off. Loose humus soil is added to the ditch for better rooting. Cultivation of planting material by layering takes 2-3 years. In autumn or early spring, rooted cuttings are dug up.

Hazel propagation by horizontal layering

On the soil leveled after deep tillage, grooves up to 2 cm deep are made near the bushes and developed long annual shoots are laid out radially in them early in spring or autumn. They are pinned with two or three pins to the bottom of the groove along the entire length. To avoid burns to the bark, the shoots are sprinkled with a thin layer (up to 1 cm) of earth or humus. On such shoots, almost all the buds develop into new young shoots. As soon as the latter reach 8-10 cm, they are hilled to 2/3 of the height. Then this operation is repeated two more times as the shoot grows (the height of the mound can reach 20-25 cm). On the part of the shoot that is sprinkled, the leaves are torn off. They dig up the entire horizontal layer after 1-2 years and cut it so that each part has one vertical rooted shoot. To enhance root formation on young shoots (at their bases), it is recommended to make 2-3 turns of soft wire. After digging up the cuttings, it is removed.

Hazel propagation by hilling shoots (or vertical layering)

In late autumn or early spring, hazel bushes are cut down to the stump, which stimulates the development of young growth. As soon as the shoots reach a height of 20-25 cm, they are covered with soil up to a third of the shoot. Hilling is repeated 2-3 times during the summer. After two years, rooted planting material is obtained.

In order to obtain planting material in one year, the same method is recommended, but using a constriction made of soft wire (the so-called Dahlem method). Constrictions of young shoots are carried out when the lower parts of the shoots become more or less lignified and the skin begins to turn brown at their base (late May - early June). For constrictions, thin (0.3-0.5 mm in diameter) copper or aluminum wire is used. The constrictions are made on the shoot as low as 2-3 turns, but so that the turns of the wire do not go down the shoot. In autumn or early spring, as soon as the soil thaws, rooted and plantable material is produced. To do this, the mounds are carefully torn apart by hand; in places where there are constrictions, the rooted shoots are broken off or cut off with pruning shears.

Hazel propagation by offspring

In old hazel bushes, up to 100-150 shoots of shoots are formed in one bush. They are used for vegetative propagation as follows. Select bushes with 2-3-year-old rhizomes located along the edges of the bush, free them from the ground and separate them from the root collar. They usually have a weak root system, and before being planted, they should be planted in a nursery for 2-3 years for growing. Abundant formation of rhizomes is observed in hazel variegated. Common hazel and hazelnut do not produce many such rhizomes.

Hazel propagation by dividing the bush

The dug up or uprooted bush is divided into parts so that each has a stump with roots 15-20 cm long. Each part is planted separately. Used for thinning dense plantations.

Hazel propagation by grafting

You can graft cuttings and buds with a strip of bark (budding): in the butt, split and behind the bark. During spring sap flow, you can also carry out budding with a germinating eye, but it is best to carry out summer budding. A higher survival rate is obtained when using cuttings from the middle and apical parts of the shoot, since the eyes are better developed on them. Cuttings for spring grafting and budding are prepared in November and stored under the snow. Cuttings for summer budding are prepared on the same day or no more than a day before their use. From harvesting to budding, the cuttings are stored in damp moss or damp cloth in a plastic bag in the basement or refrigerator. Seedlings of common, variegated and Manchurian hazel are used as rootstocks for varieties and selected forms of hazel and hazelnut. To better guarantee survival, it is recommended to carry out budding with two eyes. It is necessary to protect grafts and budding from drying out.

The highest survival rate is achieved by spring grafting with bark cuttings. After tying and coating the grafting site with garden pitch, a cap made of parchment paper or PVC or polyethylene film is put on it. To adapt the new shoot to the external environment, the cap is first opened from above, and after 10-15 days it is removed completely. During summer budding, it is recommended to take eyes from the woody part of the shoots. Before cutting the eye, the cutting must be cleared of glandular pubescence so that hairs do not fall into the T-shaped cut.

Hazel propagation by cuttings

Hazel is one of the difficult-to-root species. The best results are obtained when using cuttings from 1-2 year old shoots. The best time for cutting hazel is the beginning of lignification of the shoots of the current year's growth. The strongest shoots are selected for cuttings. Slice in the morning. The leaf blade of cuttings is shortened by half to reduce transpiration. They are planted in ridges made of a mixture of sand and peat (1:1). Watering is carried out so that the leaf blade is constantly moistened. It is best to use fogging units for this. For successful rootingleFor cuttings, the average daily temperature of the substrate should be significantly higher than the average daily air temperature, especially at night. Good results are obtained by treating them before planting with stimulating substances, for example, IBA, heteroauxin and others.

To increase the rooting rate of green hazel cuttings, good results (80-95% of rooted cuttings and up to 50% of standard seedlings after one year of growing) are obtained by a combination of various methods of etiolation (insulation with translucent material) of mother plants followed by treatment of the cuttings with growth regulators. To accelerate the propagation of valuable forms of hazel, R. F. Kudasheva at one time proposed a method of propagation by stem cuttings “with a heel” - part of last year’s wood. Rooting of cuttings taken from shoots with a heel varies from 12 to 80% depending on the variety and timing of cuttings. One of the techniques that increases the efficiency of green cuttings is growing queen cells in heated film greenhouses. This allows you to start cuttings 20-30 days earlier than usual and ensures 2-3 times better development of cuttings compared to cuttings obtained from open ground mother plants. After one year of growing, it is possible to obtain standard hazel seedlings.

V. N. Shalamov

Many people love to eat hazelnuts. However, not many people decide to start growing hazel on their plot in the open ground - and in vain. Knowing the peculiarities of planting shrubs and following the rules of care, you will regularly receive a harvest of delicious nuts.

Hazel: varieties and varieties

Hazel or hazelnut is usually called a “domesticated” variety of hazelnut. It is distinguished by its rich harvest and the size of its nuts (larger than those of wild varieties). This shrub received its Russian name because of the shape of the leaves. Even in the photo you can see that they are round and wide on the plant, like the body of a bream. Cultivated shrub species reach an average height of 3-4 m, and grow in one place for up to 70 years.

Hazel is a cultivated variety of hazelnut

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, several varieties of hazel have been developed:

Academician Yablokov;
Firstborn;
Moscow early;
Sugar;
Tambov early and others.

Planting shrubs

Since hazel was originally a forest plant, it was not used to being alone. It is better to plant several bushes, this will contribute to better pollination. Maintain a distance between seedlings of about 4-6 m. Otherwise, the plants will interfere with each other. A well-lit place, away from direct sunlight, is suitable for hazel. It should be well protected from the wind. Often shrubs are planted along the fence, preferably in the western part of the summer cottage.

hazel bush

The best rooting time is March or November. The most suitable soils for hazel are fertile, non-acidic, and loose. Strictly avoid dry, sandy soil. The depth, width and length of the pits are 0.7-1 m in each direction. Before planting, fill each of them halfway with humus and moisten (each hole will need about a bucket of water). After filling the seedling with soil, lightly compact the soil and water again.

Hazel care

In the first few years, until the bush has grown, use the soil underneath it to plant annual vegetables. You can also sow herbs there, such as cereals. Remove weeds in a timely manner, loosen the soil, but not deeply: the roots of the plant are on the surface. Hazel loves moisture, so do not skimp on abundant watering, at least once a month.

It is better to mulch the soil around the hazel

Do not allow the branches inside the bush to become too thick. When forming a bush, leave from 6 to 10 of the strongest shoots. It is advisable that they be located away from each other. In the future, dry, broken, intertwining branches should be removed. Starting from the age of 20, 2-3 old shoots of hazel are removed annually - this is rejuvenating pruning.

Fertilizing and feeding the plant

When planting, you can add humus (about a bucket), potassium sulfate (about 70 g) and double superphosphate (200 g) to each hole. All components should be thoroughly mixed with the soil. In the fall, feed the hazel with potassium and phosphorus. In the spring, fertilize it with nitrogen - for example, ammonium nitrate (at the rate of 20-30 g per 1 sq. m).

Mature hazel bush

Advice. To ensure that the nuts ripen at approximately the same time, use nitrogen fertilizing in July. It will also have a good effect on the formation of buds for next year's harvest.

Apply organic matter to young plants every three years. For 1 sq. m will need about a bucket. Feed bushes that bear fruit at the same frequency. The composition of the fertilizer for them: compost or manure (3-4 kg), superphosphate (50-60 g), potassium salt (25-30 g). Add all this during the autumn digging of the soil.

Shrub propagation

Advice. When planting seeds, treat the seed with kerosene to protect it from rodents.

Common hazel: diseases and pests

The most common problems with hazel are:

nut weevil;
walnut barbel;
kidney mite, etc.

Walnut longhorned beetle

To recognize these pests on shrubs, first carefully study them in the photo. Having found them, shake them off the branches, after spreading a film underneath, and also dig up the soil. Insecticides, for example, Karbofos, are effective in combating these insects. Bordeaux mixture is sometimes used, which is also used to treat hazel diseases. Among them are powdery mildew, brown spot and others.

If at the end of summer or beginning of autumn you observe a massive shedding of hazelnuts, most likely codling moth caterpillars have settled on the bush. Collect them manually or use chemicals (if there are too many pests). For prevention, in the spring, clean the bark, which is a haven for caterpillars.

Walnut weevil larva

Compost leaves in the fall and collect wormy nuts during the summer. These measures will further protect your hazelnuts and give you the opportunity to reap a good harvest, to the delight of yourself and your children.

Growing hazel in a country plot: video

Growing hazel: photo

The Hazel genus from the hazel family (Corylaceae) unites approximately two dozen species found in wild forests. Hazel, with its considerable range of varieties, originated from only three varieties, including Pontic, common and large hazel. In Ancient Rome and Greece, hazel was considered sacred and they believed that a branch of a walnut tree could indicate where treasures were buried, put out fires, stop floods, and protect against many diseases. The nut was considered a symbol of life and immortality.

In the European part of Russia, this species is found in broad-leaved and mixed forests (especially oak, hornbeam, beech and linden). In the forest-steppe and steppe zones, hazel lives along the banks of rivers, streams, along ravines, and at the bottom of ravines, where there is more moisture. Grows in fresh and moist fertile soils, sometimes forming thickets. In Russia and the CIS countries, hazel occupies more than 1.5 million hectares in natural plant communities alone. Common hazel (Corylus avellana L.) grows as a large shrub 2.5-8 m high. The branches are covered with brown bark with characteristic white lentils. Young shoots are gray and pubescent. The buds are round, laterally compressed. Over the years it produces a lot of growth. The stem begins to branch at the root collar. The roots spread widely in the soil, but the bulk of the root system is located shallow. The leaves are short-petiolate, rounded or broadly obovate, rounded at the apex, with a short apex, double-toothed along the edge. Hazel is a monoecious plant, although the flowers are dioecious; it blooms in April before the leaves bloom. The staminate catkins are drooping, about 5 cm long, and the pistillate flowers are enclosed in flower buds with crimson stigmas, opening simultaneously with the flowering catkins. They are pollinated by the wind. The fruit is a brownish-yellow nut located in a green bell-shaped plus. Each fruit cluster can contain up to 30 nuts, but more often there are 2-4. The yield of nuclear mass is from 20 to 60% relative to the mass of the entire nut. It begins to bear fruit in the 7-8th year. The ripening of nuts occurs in the 2nd decade of July for early forms or in September for later forms. Lives up to 80 years. Propagated by seeds, root suckers and layering.

Other types of wild hazel

Variegated hazel

It grows in the form of a low shrub (height - up to 2 m), with many strong shoots going up from the base of the bush. He loves to settle in birch forests and even feels at home in pine forests. This hazel is an excellent rootstock for non-winter-resistant hazelnut varieties, as it can tolerate frosts down to -45° C. It produces the first nuts in the 4th-5th year. First it blooms, after 20-30 days it forms leaves. The nuts are flattened on top, round, 1.5-2 cm in diameter. They are harvested in September; the taste is high, but they are inferior to common hazel in terms of oil content and other nutrients.

Tree hazel

Tree hazel received another popular name = bear nut. This is the tallest hazel, reaching a height of 25-30 m. In our country there are bear nut trees that live for more than 200 years. There are no root shoots. It begins to bear fruit later than variegated and common hazel. Nuts with thick shells. Tree productivity is low. Tree hazel is good as a decorative species for landscaping and breeding work on developing new winter-hardy hazelnut varieties.

Manchurian hazel

Manchurian hazel is found in the European part of Russia, growing as a shrub 3-4 m high. A characteristic morphological feature is oblong leaves. The main natural distribution area is Khabarovsk Territory, Amur Region, Primorye. In Europe, it settles in deciduous and coniferous forests, adapting well to new soil and climatic conditions. The fruits have a thin shell, but the size of the nuts is small. Manchurian hazel easily tolerates shading, but does not like dry soils, requiring additional soil moisture in fruit plantings of the Non-Black Earth strip and further south. Hazel and hazelnut are quite flexible plants. Even southern forms and varieties at one time moved far to the north through the efforts of I.V. Michurin and other breeders S.G. Vanichev, A.S. Yablokov and R.F. Kudashev.

Hazel – hazel – hazelnut

Hazel is popularly called hazelnut or hazel. And among garden nut crops, the most common is hazelnut, which is often called hazel, although this is not the same plant. Both hazel and hazelnut are close relatives and belong to the same family. But if we approach these plants strictly, then in the language of science, hazel should be called a group of wild species, and hazelnuts should be called cultivated varieties. In the European part of Russia, cultivated hazel varieties are a hybrid of hazelnuts and hazel (the so-called “cultivated hazel”). It is better to buy planting material in nurseries, where special varieties of nuts are grown. Forest hazel can also be useful, but we must not forget that under the forest canopy the growing conditions were completely different.

Cultivated varieties of hazel

Currently, over 100 varieties of hazel are cultivated in Russia and the CIS. The domestic variety “Panachessky” deserves closer attention with excellent taste, with a fat content of 65-68%. The variety does not need pollinators and rarely bears fruit. The average nut weight is 2.2 g. This is one of the most productive hazel varieties in Russia. The varieties “Gustav” and “Louise” imported from Germany are promising, and the French variety “Miracle of Bolvillera” is characterized by high winter hardiness and large nuts. Among the varieties of foreign selection, “Kudryavchik” stands out. Valued for its high content, up to 70%, of excellent quality fat. "Curly" grows in width more than in height. The crown diameter reaches 5-6 m, while the height is 1.5 times less than the width.

The following varieties are recommended for cultivation in central Russia:
“Tambov early”, “Tambov late green-leaved”, “Northern first-born”, “Antey”, “Komsomolets”.

Red-leaved varieties (usually decorative) are less winter-hardy: These are “Smolim”, “Rubin”, “Pamyat Yablokov” and “Pamyat Khomyakov”.

The hybrids that are most winter hardy among red-leaved plants are:
“Maria Makarevich”, “Pushkin’s Red” and “Miracle of All Saints”.

Pollinators are planted next to the red-leaved varieties (for hybrids, pollinators “Tambovsky Early” and “Pervenets” are acceptable).

Growing hazel

Both wild and cultivated forms can be propagated by layering. Arc-shaped cuttings are obtained by pinning 1-2 year old branches to the ground, after which they are covered with fertile soil and the cuttings are regularly watered with water to actively form roots. Hazelnut hybrids are propagated only vegetatively; during sexual propagation, the danger of splitting the economic and biological characteristics remains. Green-leaved forms of hazel selected for cultivation can also be propagated by seeds and nuts.
Of the vegetative methods, propagation by horizontal layering deserves attention. In autumn or early spring, half a shovel is used to dig grooves, their width is 2 times greater than the depth, 1-3 year old branches are placed in the grooves, without covering everything with soil except the apical bud, which must be removed in order to enhance root formation on the layering. Be sure to make cuts on the branches being rooted where they pin to the ground. When the side buds wake up and shoots sprout from them, they are gradually, as they grow, sprinkled with fertile soil and watered. By this method of growing nuts, you can get several seedlings with roots by autumn. But don’t rush to dig them up; let them sit in the ground until spring. The seedlings cut from the mother plant are sorted and only the strongest ones are transferred to a permanent place in the garden, while the weak ones need to be grown for another year in the nursery.

Reproduction of hazel - hazelnut

The most valuable hazelnut varieties can also be propagated by grafting. This requires a wild-growing rootstock and a cutting of your favorite variety. Grafting using the copulation method, simple, or with a tongue, improved, gives high survival rate in the spring, can be grafted in winter. If the rootstock is thicker than the cutting, graft into the butt or split.
In July, they are grafted with a dormant bud - an “eye”, but in this case a year is lost, since the bud will only begin to grow the next year in the spring. You can grow the necessary rootstock yourself in your own garden. Seeds are taken from the mother bushes of hazel and hazelnut. Dry together in piles and store in a dry place until autumn. If you sow in the spring, you need to remove the pluses and stratify them in wet sand. Seeds sown in autumn undergo ripening in cold soil without stratification.

Caring for hazel and hazelnuts

But all of the listed varieties are good only with a high level of agricultural technology. You need fertile soil with a permeable layer. Acidic soils must first be limed or discarded as completely unsuitable for growing hazel and hazelnuts. Wet, waterlogged areas are also not suitable.
Before planting, apply organic fertilizers (3-4 kg per 1 m2). Planting patterns depend on the size of the plants; tall ones are planted 6x6 m; others = 4x4 m. Varieties with shoots are thinned out before they begin to bear fruit, removing excess shoots near the ground.
2-3 years after the start of fruiting, organic fertilizers are re-applied at 3-4 kg per 1 m2, as well as 20-30 g of mineral potash, 40-50 g of phosphorus and 40-70 g of nitrogen: If, when shaking the bush, the nuts begin to fall out On the plus side, it’s time to harvest. The fat content in the kernel depends on the timing of harvesting. The nuts are separated from the nuts and dried in the shade. Store fruits at a humidity of 14-16%.

Application of hazel - hazelnut

Today, more and more valuable nutrients are found in nuts, which cannot be replaced with anything. Hazelnuts and hazelnuts are extremely high in calories. Valuable fats, a large set of proteins and carbohydrates, vitamins, mineral salts, microelements, biologically active medicinal substances, put the plant beyond the competition in gardens of all zones and regions of Russia and the CIS.
Nuts are more nutritious than even high-calorie foods such as soy and pork; the content of the best oils reaches 70-80%. The core contains about 18% of the most valuable protein, easily digestible by the human body. Hazelnuts are valued for their high content of ascorbic acid and B vitamins, as well as carotene.
The nut can be used to produce coffee surrogates; medicinal flour, cream, milk, butter are obtained from it, and halva is made from the cakes. The nut kernel is used in liquor production.
Roasted nuts are especially good when they come out of the oven. In the confectionery industry, hazelnuts are used to make cakes, pastries, sweets and chocolate additives. The oil, reminiscent of almond oil and not inferior to it in its qualities, is loved by everyone who has tried it at least once. It is used not only for food, but also for the production of creams, lipsticks, soaps, candles, paints and varnishes.
Young leaves are used as food for making cabbage rolls and soups and as a tea substitute. The branches and leaves provide satisfactory food for small livestock. Wood produces excellent charcoal, suitable for filtering and drawing. It is low-strength, thin-layered, with a reddish tint, and easily bends. It is used to make hoops, carpentry and turning products, and is used for small crafts.
Sawdust - for cleaning wine and clarifying vinegar.
The bark and leaves are suitable for tanning leather.
The bark is an excellent dye that does not contain harmful environmentally hazardous substances, therefore the most valuable printing publications are printed using technologies using nut oils. Walnut oil is used in painting, perfumery and pharmacology.
Hazel with red leaves is very elegant and decorative; it is widely used in landscape gardening.
Hazel is suitable for forest shelterbelts, hedges and securing slopes. It protects gardens and berry fields from unfavorable climatic conditions, creating windbreak lines at dachas, nurseries and industrial farms. If the garden site is located on a slope, several walnut plants will protect against erosion of the soil and destruction of its structure; ravines stop growing in width.
Hazel and hazelnuts are excellent honey plants that attract bees to the garden, give bees their first spring honey, and a lot of high-quality pollen, rich in proteins and vitamins. Beautiful baskets are woven from thin walnut vines, woody thick shoots and twigs are an excellent material for making lattices and other household items.

Hazel is a medicinal plant

The whole plant is used for medicinal purposes: roots, leaves, bark and hazel fruits. Young, May leaves are harvested and air-dried. The bark is harvested in spring and autumn and dried in well-ventilated areas. Ripe fruits are dried in an oven or dryer at a temperature of 60-70°C. The shelf life of leaves and fruits is 1 year, bark is 2 years. The plant has an astringent, antidysenteric, antipyretic, and vasodilator effect.

Use of hazel in medicine

Hazel kernels

Healing cream is made from nut kernels, restoring the strength of patients; hazelnut kernels help get rid of urolithiasis, prevent hair loss, anemia; an infusion of bark and leaves contributes to the successful treatment of varicose veins, phlebitis and prostate hypertrophy. In folk medicine, a crushed mass of kernels mixed with honey is used to treat rheumatism. Walnut kernels improve intestinal functions and exhibit general strengthening and stimulating properties.
Pounded fruits with water - for hemoptysis, kidney stones, flatulence, bronchitis and feverish conditions, and also as a lactogenic agent; crushed (with egg white) - for burns. Oil from the fruit - for gallstone disease, epilepsy; to strengthen the hair, rub it into the head; with honey - for rheumatism, anemia, ascariasis and tumors.

Hazel roots

A decoction of hazel roots is used for malaria.

Hazel wood

The “L-2 forest” liquid obtained by dry distillation of wood is used for various skin diseases - eczema, neurodermatitis, streptoderma, psoriasis, epidermophytosis.

Hazel bark

Hazel bark is an astringent, antidysenteric, and antipyretic agent. Essential oil and other components of the bark have a vasoconstrictor effect; infusion - for varicose veins, periphlebitis, varicose ulcers, capillary hemorrhages. Among North American Indians, it is used as a plaster for tumors. In Bulgaria, hazel bark is used for dilated veins, periphlebitis, and capillary hemorrhages.

Infusion of hazel bark: 20 g of crushed raw material is poured into 200 ml of boiling water, left for 5 hours, then filtered. Take 1/4 cup 4 times a day.

Hazel bark and leaves

In folk medicine, an infusion of hazel bark and leaves is used for varicose veins, trophic leg ulcers, thrombophlebitis, and capillary hemorrhages.

Infusion of hazel leaves and bark: 25 g of crushed raw material is poured into 250 ml of boiling water, left for 4 hours, then filtered. Take 1/4 cup 3-4 times a day before meals.

Decoction of hazel leaves and bark: 1 tablespoon of raw material is poured into 200 ml of boiling water, heated to a boil, left for 1 hour, then filtered. Take 1/4 cup 4 times a day.

hazel leaves

Hazel leaves are used to treat intestinal diseases, anemia, vitamin deficiency, rickets; A decoction of hazel leaves is used for prostate hypertrophy, hypertension, kidney diseases;

Decoction of hazel leaves: 20 g of raw material is boiled in 400 ml of water for 10 minutes, left for 30 minutes, then filtered. Take 1/2 cup 2-3 times a day.

An infusion of hazel leaves is used - like bark;

Infusion of hazel leaves: 20 g of raw material is poured into 200 ml of boiling water, left for 4 hours, then filtered. Take 1/4 cup 4 times a day.

Ointment - made from hazel leaves is used for cancer.

Juice from hazel leaves is used to treat intestinal diseases, anemia, vitamin deficiency, and rickets.

Hazel leaf juice: squeezed from fresh young leaves at the end of hazel flowering. Take 1-2 tablespoons of juice with an equal amount of honey 3-5 times a day before meals.

Hazel plush

A decoction of hazel plus is used for diarrhea. Powder from dried hazel is used for colitis.

Decoction of hazel plus: 20 g of dried raw material is boiled in 200 ml of water for 15 minutes, left for 2 hours, then filtered. Take 1/4 cup 4 times a day.

Hazel recipes

Nut butter

Chop the nut kernels, dilute a little with water, heat, wrap in a clean towel and put under a press. The oil is light yellow in color, has a pleasant smell, has an almond or olive taste, and does not smoke when burned. Ripe kernels contain up to 72% oil. The cake can be used to make halva, chocolate, waffles, etc.

Walnut oil is taken 2 tablespoons 3 times a day for roundworms, epilepsy, rubbed into the scalp to enhance hair growth.

Nut milk and cream

Cut the nut kernels, soak for 20 hours, then fry, grind with a little water, beat with cream until fluffy. Drink like cream, use for making cream for cakes and pastries.

Nut cream

Beat eggs (3 pcs.) and sugar (150 g) until thickened in a saucepan placed in a water bath, then cool, add pieces of butter (150 g), nut cream (100 ml), grind thoroughly.

Nut drink

Pour soaked and crushed nut kernels (200 g) with water or milk (1 l) for 4 hours, then strain. Bring the infusion to a boil, add sugar and salt (to taste). Coffee drink made from nuts
Roast the nut kernels, grind them in a coffee grinder or mortar, add ground black coffee. Brew 1 teaspoon of the mixture with boiling water (200 ml), bring to a boil, let stand. Add sugar (to taste).

Hazel tea

Brew 1 teaspoon of dried hazel leaves with boiling water (200 ml). Add sugar (to taste).

Nut flour

Grind the dried nut kernels in a coffee grinder. Mixed with kernels, use for fillings in confectionery products.

Hazel trees and their cultivated varieties (hazelnuts) reproduce by seed and vegetative methods.

Seed propagation

It is used for growing planting material of wild hazel and hazelnut species, but only if the goal is to create half-hazelnut plantations. Seedlings grown from hazelnut seeds produce nuts according to GOST half-hazelnut. Half-hazelnut kernels are also an excellent raw material for the food industry. To create industrial varietal plantations, it is necessary to grow seedlings through vegetative propagation. Decorative forms should also be propagated - red-leaved, dissected-leaved, etc.

To grow seedlings in nurseries or when creating plantations by sowing nuts in a permanent place, well-ripened nuts are used. They are prepared with a wrapper or collected from the ground under a bush. The nuts prepared with wrappers are spread for 3-4 days in a layer of 5 cm under a canopy or in another ventilated room. During this time, the wrappers will wither and will be well separated from the nuts, which will make them easier to clean.

Peeled and collected nuts from the ground are dried for 5-8 days in a ventilated area, after which they can be stored in bags or boxes until autumn sowing or stratification. At the same time, make sure that the nuts do not dry out or become moldy. Ground germination of nuts is 60-80%. The seeding rate per 1 m of nuts of class I is 40 g, class II is 48 g and class III is 64 g. It must be said that these seeding rates are underestimated. We recommend sowing 50 pcs. healthy nuts per 1 m2, which will ensure a yield of standard seedlings from 1 hectare of sowing of 600-800 thousand pieces.

Stratify the nuts in sand or peat for 4 months. The duration of stratification of overdried nuts is increased to 5 months. In addition, it is recommended to stratify such nuts for the first 10-15 days in conditions of high humidity at a temperature of 18-22 ° C, stirring frequently. Usually nuts are stratified in the basement at a temperature of 1-5 °C, but not more than 10 °C. During stratification, the nuts are mixed every 7-8 days, and the sand or peat is moistened as necessary. To do this, pour the mixture of nuts and substrate onto the floor or onto a sheet of plywood, mix well, remove rotten nuts, after which this mixture is loosely poured into a box.

The soil for sowing nuts is prepared according to the black or early fallow system with a main plowing depth of 25-27 cm and loosening the soil with a subsoiler to 35 cm. Before sowing, the soil is cultivated to a depth of 7-8 cm and harrowed in two tracks. The sowing depth is 7-8 cm in autumn, 5-6 cm in spring. During the growing season, four to five loosening of the soil in the rows and two or three weedings in the rows are carried out. Seedlings are dug up at 1-2 years of age, when their height is at least 15 cm and the thickness of the root collar is at least 3 mm. Seedlings are dug to a depth of 25 cm. Digging and planting of seedlings can be carried out both in autumn and spring.

Vegetative propagation

In production practice, hazelnuts and valuable forms of hazel are propagated by layering, grafting and dividing the bush.

Reproduction by layering carried out by rooting shoots or branches without separating them from the mother bush. Rooting is carried out by channeling into grooves (or arch), horizontal and vertical layering.

Propagation by channeling can be carried out throughout the entire growing season. The greatest yield is provided by layering planted in the first half of the growing season when the bush is completely leafed. To remove the shoots, grooves 10-15 cm deep and 40-50 cm long are dug near the bush. The shoots are bent into the groove and pinned to the bottom with wooden hooks. The tops of the shoots are taken out of the groove and tied to vertical pegs. After this, the grooves are covered with earth mixed with humus and watering is done, and in dry areas, mulching is also done. Watering promotes soil settlement and good contact with the cuttings, which is a necessary condition for root formation.

If several shoots and branches are removed, then a layer of soil is removed near the bush to a depth of 10-15 cm, and in length and width depending on the number and length of shoots and branches that are to be laid. It is important that the tops tied to the pegs rise above the ground by at least 10 cm. The strongest root formation in layering occurs at the bend of the shoot. The disadvantage of this method is that only one layer is obtained from one shoot.

Using another technique - horizontal layering, you can get three to five layering from each shoot. To do this, in the fall or early spring, well-developed annual shoots are bent and pinned to the bottom of shallow grooves, but they are not sprinkled with anything. This is done carefully so that all the buds on the shoot are preserved and undamaged. On a horizontally laid shoot, almost every bud will germinate and a vertical shoot will grow from it. In June, shoots that have reached at least 10-15 cm are covered with earth to 2/3 of their height. To enhance root formation on young vertical shoots (at the base), tie them with soft wire in 2-3 turns. Then, as the vertical shoots grow in height, hilling is repeated 2-3 times during the summer. On the part of the shoot that is covered with earth, the leaves are torn off. They dig up the entire horizontal layer, and after digging, cut it so that each part has one vertical rooted shoot. The wire constrictions are removed after digging the layers.

For vertical layering, hilling is carried out on 1-2 year old stump shoots, which also need to be covered with wire constrictions at the base. To propagate valuable hazelnut varieties by vertical layering, special queen-layer plantations are established. Bushes on such plantations are placed according to a 3X1 m pattern, which makes it possible to mechanize the processing of row spacing and partially hilling of layering. To obtain shoots, seedlings are cut onto stumps in the 3rd or 4th year after planting. The shoots are hilled up 2-3 times during the summer, adhering to the rule that each time 1/3 of the height of the shoot is not covered with soil. The disadvantage of rooting vertical layering is that the growth of shoots on bushes covered with soil almost stops.

To restore the growth capacity, it is necessary to give the plantation a rest for 1 year, i.e., do not plant layering. But we must remember that all methods of layering propagation of hazelnuts and valuable forms of hazel root root the layering during one growing season only if the soil is sufficiently moistened. In arid areas, it is necessary to water the layerings 3-4 times at a rate of 600-1000 m 3 of water per 1 hectare and mulch with peat, humus, and best of all green freshly cut grass. When laying and tying layering to pegs, their above-ground part should be left no more than 50-60 cm long.

Sufficient rooting of cuttings in one growing season occurs only in exceptionally favorable conditions. Most often, they are kept rooted for 2 years. In the second year, early in the spring, we recommend shortening the above-ground part to 50-60 cm of all layering. This helps to enhance root formation and branching of the aboveground part, which is very important when forming a bush on a plantation.

Sometimes in the literature you can find an erroneous statement that hazelnuts and hazelnuts reproduce by root suckers. Neither type of hazel nor cultivated varieties produce root suckers even if the roots are exposed and injured with a shovel or other implement.

In old hazelnut cultivation areas, one bush produces up to 100-150 shoots. They are used for vegetative propagation and are technically produced this way. Select bushes with 2-3-year-old rhizomes located along the edges of the bush, free them from the ground and separate them from the root collar. They usually have a weak root system, and before being planted, they should be planted in a nursery for 2-3 years for growing. Abundant formation of rhizomes is observed in variegated hazel, but they do not occur in bear nut. In hybrids of bear nut and hazelnut, very little or no rhizome shoots are formed.

Reproduction by dividing the bush. The dug up or uprooted bush is divided into parts so that each has a stump with roots 15-20 cm long, and this stump is planted in a permanent place. This method can be used when thinning dense plantations by uprooting excess bushes. With normal planting and proper agricultural technology, parts of the bush take root well, quickly restore the crown and enter the fruiting season in the 3rd-4th year.

Reproduction by vaccinations. You can graft cuttings and buds with a strip of bark (budding). Grafting with cuttings is done in the spring using methods known in gardening practice: by butt, by splitting and by bark. During spring sap flow, budding can also be carried out with a germinating eye, but it is best to buminate during summer sap flow: in the southern regions of Ukraine, on the southern coast of Crimea and in the Carpathians - in July, and in more northern regions - in the first half of August.

Cuttings for spring grafting and budding are prepared in winter and stored in a glacier or under snow. Cuttings for summer budding are prepared on the same day or no more than a day before their use. From harvesting to budding, the cuttings are stored in an icebox in a vessel with water, in damp moss or in a damp cloth.

As rootstocks for hazelnuts, you can use seedlings of common hazel, variegated hazel and bear hazel. To better guarantee survival, it is recommended to carry out budding with two eyes. An important condition for the survival of grafts and buddings is to protect them from drying out.

Spring grafting of cuttings behind the bark gives the highest survival rate. After tying and coating the grafts with garden varnish, caps made of parchment paper are put on them. In order to “accustom” the new shoot that appears on the cutting to the external environment, the cap is first opened from above, and after 10-15 days it is completely removed.

In the conditions of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus (Sochi), the best time for hazelnut budding will be the first days of July, the survival rate of the eyes will be 72-76%, but at the end of July only 46-52% (according to S. N. Kuznetsov). In this case, it is recommended to take the eyes from the lignified part of annual shoots. Before cutting the eye, the cutting must be cleared of glandular pubescence so that hairs do not fall into the T-shaped cut. The highest survival rate of buddings (80-89%) is in the fruit nursery state farm “Lozovoy”, Kharkov region. noted during the period from August 7 to August 18. When propagating hazelnuts by grafting, standard seedlings with one stem are grown. Such seedlings can be grown on plantations with a planting pattern of 5x2 m, which will allow placing 1000 pieces per 1 hectare. plants. In terms of nut yield, standard plantations are not inferior to bush plantations; they facilitate the collection of nuts and its mechanization. For standard hazelnut crops, bear hazel seedlings or its hybrids, which do not produce shoots, should be used as rootstocks.

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Who among us does not love to eat delicious hazelnuts collected from a tree called hazel. And while many people are more or less aware of the beneficial properties of hazelnuts, we know quite little about the medicinal properties of the bark, leaves and other parts of this plant. Well, it’s time to fill this gap, and this article will help with this.

Description of the hazel plant (hazel)

Hazel (popularly called hazel) belongs to the Birch family. This tree-shrub is rightfully considered a long-liver, since its “life” is about 80 years.

The plant received its name for the shape of the foliage (hazel leaves are quite large and broadly oval), reminiscent of bream fish in appearance, while the upper surface of the leaves is dark green in color, and the lower surface is light green.

What does it look like?

Hazel can reach a height of 3–7 m. The slightly pubescent leaves of the plant have a heart-shaped base and a pointed apex.

Hazel branches are covered with brown bark with white lentils. Young shoots are distinguished by their gray color and the presence of an edge.

The flowers of the plant are unisexual: for example, male flowers have the shape of earrings located on short branches, while female flowers are more like buds.

The fruit of the hazel tree is a brownish-yellow edible nut, enclosed in a leaf wrapper - a plus, resembling a bell in appearance.

Where does it grow?

Hazel is widespread in the European part of Russia, the Baltic states, Ukraine and Belarus, the Caucasus and the Far East.

This plant prefers fresh, moist and fertile soils of broad-leaved and mixed forests. In addition, you can find hazel on forest edges, along ravines and among bushes, where the plant can form quite dense thickets.

Hazel and hazelnut

Hazelnuts and hazelnuts are often considered to be the same crops, but this is not entirely true, despite the fact that these plants belong to the same genus and family and have similar appearance, composition and properties.

Hazelnut (or hazelnut) is a cultivated type of hazel. These are high-yielding, and most importantly, selected forms of hazel, and initially the fruits of large hazel (Corylus maxima L) were called hazelnuts, while today, using a selective method, hazelnuts are obtained from common hazel, common in Russia.

How is hazel different from hazelnut?

The main difference between hazelnuts and hazelnuts is that the fruits of the former are three to four times larger.

In addition, in terms of taste and nutritional characteristics, hazelnuts are superior to hazel because they contain more fat, protein, and other beneficial substances.

Hazel and hazelnut: how to choose - video

Hazel varieties

The genus of hazel includes about 20 species, but at our latitudes, it is predominantly common hazel that grows wild. To be fair, we note that there are also other separate populations, among which the most common are large, tree-like, variegated and Manchurian hazel.

Large hazel (purpurea)

Hazel purpurea (or Lombard nut) is a large shrub whose height can reach 10 meters. Large hazel has gray branches and round or broadly oval jagged leaves of green or dark red color.

The fruits of large hazel (namely hazelnuts) are crowded into 3–6 pieces on a stalk, the length of which is 2–3 cm. The wrapper of the fruit, tightly covering the kernel in the lower part, is distinguished by its fleshiness. The length of the hazelnut itself reaches 2 – 2.5 cm with a diameter of 1.5 cm.

The fruits of hazel purpurea are distinguished by high taste and nutritional qualities, as they contain about 60 percent fat and 15 percent proteins (large hazel nuts taste like almonds).

In the wild, this plant is found in Asia Minor, Turkey, Italy, and also in the Balkans.

Tree hazel (bear nut)

This is the tallest variety of hazel, reaching a height of 25–30 m. This tree, despite its width (from 6 to 8 m), has a slender trunk, which is crowned by a wide pyramidal crown of regular shape. In autumn, bear nut leaves turn golden yellow or green-yellow.

The bark of the tree has a whitish-gray tint and comes off in plates.

The fruits of this plant have an involucre cut into thin but sharp jagged lobes. The nut shell is quite thick.

There are bear nut trees whose age exceeds 200 years.

It grows wild in Transcaucasia, Asia Minor and the Balkans.