Ventilation is needed in a private house. How to carry it out correctly in residential and utility rooms, in the basement, on the roof? Which system to choose and how to calculate the ventilation of a private house? After reading this article, you will be able to solve the problem of ventilation in a private house with your own hands.
Operating principle and types of traction
The ventilation operating principle based on natural draft is still the most popular among owners of country private houses. The operation of the system is based on physical laws: warm and humid air rushes upward, and cold air comes in its place. The owners of a private house only need to install ventilation openings for the outflow and inflow of air. The ventilation of septic tanks in private houses, sheds and cellars works on the same principle.
The widespread use of natural ventilation is explained by its accessibility and simplicity. However, the other side of the coin is job instability. Therefore, for residential premises there is a more modern solution based on the use of mechanisms:
- mechanical exhaust ventilation, the principle of operation of ventilation in a private house, in which exhaust air is discharged outside using a fan. Fresh air is sucked in through specially equipped air intake devices, open vents or cracks in the enclosing structures;
- mechanical supply ventilation, in which filtered air of the required temperature is forced into the house. Excessive pressure is created, under the influence of which the exhaust air is forced out through the exhaust ducts into the street;
- mechanical supply and exhaust system. Fully calculated ventilation of a private house with automated air exchange.
In private houses with a large area, it is advisable to organize a centralized ventilation system, in which all equipment is concentrated at a single point, and air channels disperse throughout the house.
Natural ventilation
The easiest way is to organize natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands. A vertical exhaust duct is laid from each ventilated room, which ends above the highest point of the roof of a private house. Typically, exhaust ducts are installed:
- in the kitchen and bathroom, where the release of moisture, heat and odors is maximum;
- enclosed spaces: storage rooms, dressing rooms, laundries, if they are connected to residential premises. If the doors open into the kitchen or corridor, a supply valve is mounted in the wall;
- the boiler room is equipped with a ventilation duct and a supply valve;
- in rooms separated from the nearest exhaust duct by 3 or more doors;
- starting from the second floor, if the staircase is separated by doors, ventilation ducts are pulled from the corridor or all the rooms listed earlier. If the staircase is not separated by doors, inflow valves and ventilation ducts are installed in each room.
According to the rules, it is necessary to install ventilation under the floor of a private house made of wood and a plinth, removing radon gas, which is hazardous to health, through additional channels. Ventilation under the floor is absolutely necessary for wooden private houses; this will extend the life of the floorboards and prevent them from rotting. It is useless to install exhaust ventilation ducts from the attic rooms of a private house, since a small difference in heights will not be able to provide draft.
On the contrary, the flow of fresh air needs to be organized in living rooms. The best way is to install an inlet device (valve). The intensity of the inflow can be adjusted and the house is not left without fresh air.
If there is no inflow in the house, then air will not be drawn out! This must be taken into account when organizing natural ventilation in a private house.
According to rules 55.13330.2011, in private residential buildings, ventilation must provide a single air exchange from living quarters, 60 cubic meters of air per hour from the kitchen and 25 cubic meters from the toilet and bathroom. In auxiliary rooms, the air exchange rate is 0.2 or higher per hour.
Selection of the cross-section of ventilation ducts
The smallest acceptable diameter of the air duct for natural ventilation of a private house made of brick, stone or wood is 150 mm. The cross-sectional area of such a pipe is about 0.016 sq.m. If you plan to install rectangular or square air ducts for an exhaust ventilation system in a private house, the side length must be at least 100 mm. If a height difference of at least 3 meters is provided, such an air duct passes through about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. You can improve throughput by increasing one of the values:
- length of the vertical exhaust duct;
- diameter or cross-sectional area of the duct.
If the length of the vertical section is less than 200 cm, there will be no traction. When carrying out ventilation in a private house, you should take into account the height and shape of the roof, the number of floors of the house and the presence of an attic.
Vertical exhaust ducts for all rooms on the same floor must be the same height. As a rule, the diameter and cross-sectional shape are also chosen to be the same; such a structure is easier to assemble.
With a small number of exhaust ducts, it is not advisable to connect horizontal air ducts to one common main; this reduces draft. It is convenient to hide the blocks in load-bearing walls, in special hollow concrete blanks. Ventilation in a private brick house can be installed in specially laid rectangular ducts 14x27 cm or square 14x14 cm.
The outer stone block of ventilation ducts is supported on a reinforced concrete slab or foundation. In light frame or wooden houses, channels are made of plastic or galvanized pipes, which are placed in a single box.
In order to increase the productivity of the channel without changing the height, it is necessary to increase its cross-sectional area. Channels made of different materials have different capacity; the smoother the internal walls, the higher it is; this must be kept in mind when calculating ventilation in a private house.
| Height (cm) | Room temperature | |||
| 16 | 20 | 25 | 32 | |
| 200 | 24,16 | 34,17 | 43,56 | 54,03 |
| 400 | 32,50 | 45,96 | 58,59 | 72,67 |
| 600 | 38,03 | 53,79 | 68,56 | 85,09 |
| 800 | 42,12 | 59,57 | 75,93 | 94,18 |
| 1000 | 45,31 | 64,06 | 81,69 | 101,32 |
Table 1. The performance of a stone ventilation duct with a cross-sectional area of 204 sq.cm.
Sewer ventilation
Ventilation of the sewer riser in a private house will prevent the spread of unpleasant gas accumulating in the pipes. To remove gases, septic tanks are also equipped with ventilation in private houses.
Rules for installing a sewer ventilation riser in a private house:
- the outlet of the exhaust air duct for sewer ventilation should be located 1 meter above the roof of a private house, it is not covered with a hood;
- if there are several sewer risers in a private house, the ventilation pipes are used the same (11 cm (for two or more floors) or 5 cm);
- it is prohibited to combine sewer ventilation of a private house and other premises;
- from the head of the exhaust pipe to the window should be at least 3.5 meters, from the ground - at least 4 m;
- It is not advisable to install the pipe under the roof overhang, since in winter it can be broken by ice.
Fermentation and decay processes constantly occur in sewer drains, helping to decompose the contents. These processes are possible only in the presence of oxygen. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the cesspool in a private house. The ventilation of the septic tank and sewerage system in a private house is carried out with plastic pipes. During design, a special channel is left for the pipe exit.
How to arrange sewer ventilation in a private house if it is impossible to install a pipe? Vacuum valves have been developed for this purpose - the device is installed in the house at the outlet of the sewer riser.
The ventilation of a septic tank in a private house is equipped with PVC pipes. The pipe for sewer ventilation in a private house is installed vertically in the roof of the septic tank and is installed half a meter above the soil level. If the cesspool in a private house has not been waterproofed, it does not require ventilation, since air penetrates through numerous cracks.
Foundation ventilation
Ventilation of the foundation of a private house is provided by a vent system. Vents are openings in the basement of a building, the number and size of which depend on the area and location of the house.
For 2.5 linear meters of walls, usually 1 vent measuring 10x15 cm or 25x30 cm is installed. If a private house is located in a low area and is not blown by winds, the ventilation of the foundation should be strengthened and the number of vents should be doubled. To prevent animals from getting into the underground, the vents are covered with nets or grates. Before the onset of cold weather, all ventilation of the foundation of a private house is blocked.
Basement ventilation
The heated basement of a private house is ventilated in the same way as any other room. An exhaust duct using natural draft or a supply valve is installed in each basement compartment. If there is a laundry room or sauna in the basement, an exhaust duct is drawn from it.
If the basement is not used, it is necessary to place supply units and one exhaust duct in the corners. It is advisable to equip cold basements with mechanical exhaust.
Ventilation of the basement floor of a private house is equipped according to the same principle. Many owners limit themselves to only the vent system. But such a floor ventilation scheme is in many cases insufficient; radioactive radon and dampness accumulate in the basement of a private house. This picture is especially common in winter, when the vents for ventilation of the basement of a private house are tightly closed.
Disadvantages of natural ventilation and ways to eliminate them
Before installing natural ventilation in a private house, consider its disadvantages:
- draft depends on the air temperature outside and in the house, the direction and strength of the wind, humidity;
- if the cross-sectional area of the channels is incorrectly selected, the exhaust ventilation system in a private house will not work;
- the system is practically not regulated;
- in summer, traction may be completely absent;
- in the cold season, the draft intensifies, carrying heat out of the house. In some cases, up to 35% of heat is lost through natural ventilation;
- It is necessary to insulate natural ventilation in a private house.
Despite the shortcomings, you can make ventilation with your own hands in a private house quite effective.
It should be understood that the natural ventilation scheme in private houses that has existed for decades can only serve bathrooms and kitchens. Living rooms are ventilated mainly through open windows.
crying windows are a sign of broken ventilation
Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to ensure 2 conditions: air flow and unhindered passage of air throughout the house.
To solve the first problem, a wide range of supply valves are available on the market:
- window;
- wall
Installing a window inlet valve
Window valves are mounted on the sash; it is quite easy to install this type of supply ventilation yourself in a private house. You will need the following tool:
- screwdriver;
- sharp knife;
- ruler no shorter than 35 cm.
Work progress:
- We cut out the standard seal from the fixed frame in the place where the valve is intended to be installed.
- We install the seal that comes with the valve.
- We mark the location of the valve on the flap; it should coincide with the replaced area.
- We remove the seal section on the flap as well.
- We install valve plugs into the resulting gap. They must fit entirely into the slot so that the valve can subsequently be attached to them.
- The valve is glued to the double-sided tape and secured to the fasteners with self-tapping screws.
- A seal is inserted between the fasteners.
Now you can check the valve in action. The window inlet valve has several advantages:
- easy to install;
- during installation, all enclosing structures remain intact and intact;
- you can regulate the intensity of the inflow or completely block it.
And there is only one drawback: in severe frosts it can freeze. But there are branded models that do not have this drawback. You will have to pay more for them.
Another model of window valve is the handle valve. A very convenient device, the installation of which will have to be entrusted to a specialist.
Installation of a wall supply valve
A wall valve is also a fairly convenient solution for natural supply ventilation of a private house. It operates without a power source, is equipped with noise insulation and a filter, and, thanks to its labyrinthine shape, reduces the speed of air movement.
However, ease of installation and low price make these devices very popular. When choosing a valve, you should pay attention to the operating temperature range, as well as the dimensions of the indoor module and the flow capacity. As a rule, a valve is installed between the heating radiator and the window sill. So the cold air first falls on the radiator, warms up, and only then enters the room. Therefore, it is important to determine the size of the device. A fairly popular location for placing the valve is at the top of the wall near the window.
Necessary tools for installing a fresh air ventilation valve in a private house:
- a hammer drill with a special attachment for drilling holes. You can get by with a thick drill, but the process will be more labor-intensive;
- sealant;
- level;
- roulette;
- screwdriver;
- sharp knife.
The main disadvantage of wall supply valves that stops many: to install the valve, you need to make a through hole in the wall.
The supply valve usually consists of an internal module, an air duct and an external grille. Progress of work on installing the supply wall device:
- Disassemble the valve, if it was sold assembled, and mark the location of the air duct on the wall.
- Drill a hole of the required diameter (see instructions for the device). The ventilation pipe should have a slight slope towards the street to allow condensation and raindrops to drain.
- The duct is wrapped in thermal insulation (sometimes it is sold already insulated) and inserted into the duct. Outside, the tube should be flush with the wall; inside the house, leave about 1 cm of protrusion.
- We fasten the housing inside the house, having previously installed insulation and filters one by one.
- We attach a protective grille to the outside.
The operation of the valve is regulated by a damper. At least once a year (if the house is located in nature), the device must be disassembled and cleaned, otherwise its throughput and filtration quality will decrease.
Installation of overflow grids
Now it's time to pay attention to the movement of air flow around the house. For it to pass freely, there must be a gap at least 3 centimeters high under each interior door. If interior doors are equipped with thresholds and are tightly closed, it is necessary to install cross-flow grilles.
In each door, the total area of the openings for the unhindered movement of air must be at least 200 cubic meters for residential premises. cm.
The minimum size of the grille in the doors of any room equipped with a natural exhaust ventilation channel is 800 cubic cm. The flow grilles are made of aluminum alloys and consist of two frames between which horizontal blinds are attached. Transfer grilles are convenient because, while leaving air free to move, they block the access of light and sound to the room. If installing grilles is impossible for some reason, there is a simple and effective solution: holes are drilled in the bottom of the door and covered with ventilation rings. The rings can be simple, equipped with a mesh, or sound-absorbing.
If there are more than 2 doors with overflow openings or grilles between the inflow point and the exhaust duct, the air movement will be slowed down.
And the most budget option is undercutting the door. A strip of 3-4 cm is cut from the lower part, the cut is sealed with an end edging. This scheme is not suitable for bedrooms and children's rooms, as it does not provide sufficient insulation of the room.
Supplementing natural ventilation with mechanical elements
Exhaust fans in ventilation ducts and hoods in kitchens significantly improve the performance of natural ventilation in a private brick house. They are good when you need to clear the air of excess moisture or odors in a short time. Intensive work is accompanied by noise and quite high electricity consumption.
| Characteristic | Model | |||
| Systemair | Vortice | Electrolux | Polar Bear | |
| Productivity (cubic m/hour) | 83 | 85 | 100 | |
| Rotation speed (rpm) | 2000 | 1400 | ||
| Power, W) | 15 | 15 | 15 | 40 |
| Noise level dB | 48 | 31 | 33 | 45 |
| Additional options | sleep timer | Off timer, check valve | sleep timer | |
| Manufacturer country | Sweden | Italy | Sweden | Sweden |
Table 2. Characteristics of domestic exhaust fans from leading manufacturers
Keep in mind: the presence of a fan in the ventilation duct seriously impairs draft. Incorrect connection of the hood also negatively affects the natural exhaust ventilation system in a private house. The exhaust grille must remain open! There are special grilles on sale with a separate socket for connecting the exhaust air duct. But the exhausted air can instantly enter the kitchen through the grille. Therefore, for a private house, the optimal solution is to make the exhaust outlet autonomous, directly to the street. It is equipped with a check valve to prevent cold air from entering the room.
Supply and exhaust mechanical ventilation
Owners of large and comfortable houses often install fully automated supply and exhaust ventilation. Its advantages are obvious:
- all indoor air indicators will clearly correspond to the calculated ones;
- equipment operates without human presence;
- In case of failures, the system will signal the reasons.
Supply equipment supplies air, having previously prepared it. At the same time, an exhaust hood works with it, removing waste air masses.
The supply and exhaust unit is usually installed in the attic, and air ducts radiate from it throughout the house. Since the equipment is quite bulky, it is advisable to design it in advance. Then during construction you can plan openings, niches and highways for placement. Due to the complexity and large size of such installations, they are not assembled independently.
Ventilation insulation
We examined the question of how to install ventilation in a private house, but did not touch upon an important point. Some sections of the ventilation of a private house must be insulated. This applies to sections of air ducts passing through cold rooms, attics, and the street. If thermal insulation is neglected, condensation will settle on the pipe walls. Galvanized air ducts will fail faster; in frosty weather, moisture freezes, the clearance of the pipe decreases and ventilation stops working.
Therefore, insulation of ventilation in a private house is mandatory. The pipe outlet through the wall must be done through an insulated sleeve.
- Minvata cheap, doesn't burn. At the same time, it is difficult to install and falls off over time;
- Foam “shells” easy to install, inexpensive and durable. Moreover, in the event of a fire, they burn like gunpowder;
- PPU or polypropylene “shells” a little more expensive than polystyrene foam, but more durable;
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In order for a private house to receive an influx of fresh air, as well as remove already polluted air, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.
Natural ventilation
At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the exhaust of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.
You can ventilate your house in four ways:
- channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
- ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
- permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
- periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.
To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.
Advantages
According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:
- supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
- supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
- supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
- supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.
However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.
The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:
- grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
- filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
- air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
- fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
- sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
- heaters that heat the incoming air;
- ventilation ducts that allow air to move.
How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home
Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:
- hanging;
- built-in;
- dome or fireplace.
Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.
But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.
The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
The task of installed ventilation in the bathroom is to clean the room from various odors and eliminate high humidity.
Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.
Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room.
Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:
- plastic;
- wooden;
- steel;
- made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.
However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.
Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands
Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.
Fresh air in a country house or cottage is necessary all year round: its access to the premises is ensured using the correct ventilation device:
- Exhaust elements remove unpleasant odors generated during the cooking process, as well as dust, excess humidity and other waste products from the premises.
- Supply elements ensure the supply of fresh air to the premises and create favorable conditions in the off-season (maintain the desired temperature and humidity).
Ventilation also prevents the formation of humidity in the house. This often happens if the house is located in a private sector and does not have a high foundation separating it from the ground, and, as a result, leads to the formation of “fungus”.
Rooms to be equipped with ventilation ducts
It is most important to organize ventilation ducts in those rooms where the air is susceptible to pollution. For a private home, this is primarily a kitchen, bathrooms, storage rooms, as well as an individual heating unit (IHP) and a garage. In the bathroom, the air is usually over-humidified and you need to constantly ventilate the room to avoid the appearance of condensation and fungi. In the kitchen, when cooking food, particles of fat, moisture and soot get into the air, which also need to be eliminated.
In residential areas - bedrooms, children's rooms, living rooms - ventilation is also necessary. However, here it can be organized in a natural way. This is achieved through loose door frames (with gaps between the floor and the door) and special valves on the windows, which ensure the flow of air from the street without opening the windows.
Ventilation schemes: 1) using deflectors, 2) using valves
Additional premises
- ITP (individual heating point) - located, as a rule, in the basement. To ensure air exchange, you need to know the modernization of the boiler:
- Solid fuel (wood, coal).
- Liquid fuel (diesel fuel).
- Gas (natural gas, gas holder).
In any case, there are general requirements for the design of ITP:
- The exhaust gases must be discharged through a separate stainless steel duct system (sandwich).
- A window opening is required.
- Garage – located, as a rule, in an extension or basement.
A prerequisite is the presence of local exhaust suction and forced supply and exhaust ventilation.
Natural ventilation of a private house
Ventilation of the cottage works naturally due to the difference in temperature and air pressure outside and inside the house. It is based on simple physical laws. The temperature in enclosed spaces is warmer than outside the home, so the air there has less mass. Thanks to this, it rises, where it enters the ventilation shaft and is discharged outside the building. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they sink to the floor of the room. Under their influence, light warm air is forced upward. Thus, natural air circulation occurs.
Wind also affects the speed at which fresh air flows into the room, but in modern buildings this factor is hardly worth taking into account. New plastic double-glazed windows work to retain heat inside the building and prevent gusts of wind from entering the room. In this case, it is recommended to install windows with special valves that help ventilate the rooms.
Natural ventilation of a private house can be organized according to the same principle as in a regular apartment - fresh air comes from the street through windows and doors, passes through all rooms and is discharged into channels located in the bathroom and kitchen. In this case, there is no need to make separate ventilation holes in living areas.
Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation
The advantages of a natural ventilation system can be noted in several points:
- Inexpensive materials. To ensure the inflow and outflow of air, no special equipment is required, in addition to pipes and grilles to create holes.
- Ease of installation and repair. The design is quite simple; it does not require construction skills and subsequent maintenance.
- Low noise level. Due to the absence of fans and low air speed, no sound is created in the pipe.
Natural ventilation options: 1 - with deflector; 2 - with a rotary turbine; 3 - shaft with an umbrella (weathervane).
The disadvantages of a natural ventilation system at home include:
- Poor efficiency at low temperature differences between outside and inside the building in the summer.
- Lack of system operation adjustment.
It is rational to use natural ventilation in wooden buildings.
Forced ventilation of a private house
If the natural ventilation of the cottage does not cope with the ventilation of the premises, it is worth resorting to organizing an artificial or forced ventilation system. Air exchange in it occurs during the operation of various pumping devices - fans, pumps and compressors. They can be built into the natural ventilation system of the building, or installed in separate channels.
When designing and installing forced systems, the following rules must be observed:
- The systems of bathrooms, kitchens and living quarters must be separated.
- Supply air ducts must be insulated.
- The supply flow must be provided with filters and a heater (electric, water, steam).
Forced ventilation in a private house can be arranged in several ways:
- supply air - provides forced air supply;
- exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
- supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized mechanically;
- supply and exhaust system with a recuperator - exhaust air is cleaned and partially returned to the premises;
- air conditioning system – ensures the creation of a microclimate in the premises.
In this section we will discuss all the options for creating an artificial ventilation system.
Supply unit
This system functions in such a way that stale air is replaced by fresh air using a system of fans and blowers. It consists of the following parts:
- ventilation channel through which air enters;
- filtration systems for air purification;
- devices for cooling and heating air masses;
- fans that promote inflow;
- silencer;
- Instrumentation and automation (control and measuring instruments and automation).
Through an opening in the walls of the building, fresh air enters the system, undergoes mechanical cleaning in filters and, under the influence of a fan, is distributed throughout the house. As with natural ventilation, fresh air under pressure displaces stale air. If temperature regulators are present, such a system can operate effectively at any time of the year.
The supply ventilation of a private house can be arranged in such a way that air can move both through pipes and through openings in the walls equipped with the necessary devices. Modern fans make both of these design methods equally effective.
Speaking about the advantages of flow air exchange, it is worth noting the following factors:
- Compact system size.
- Adjustable air supply and temperature.
Disadvantages of the flow-through ventilation method:
- High noise levels.
- The need to allocate space for pipes when installing a duct system.
- Fans require regular cleaning.
- Electricity consumption.
- Difficult to install (professional installation).
An example of supply ventilation with natural exhaust air outflow
Exhaust
The exhaust ventilation system in a private house is aimed at removing stagnant air, and the influx of fresh air is provided through windows and doors. The main element of this design is an exhaust fan, which removes air outside the building through pipes.
Output devices are usually installed in the kitchen and bathroom, due to the increased risk of air pollution. In the kitchen, these functions are performed by an exhaust hood, and in the bathroom there are built-in fans that operate for exhaust. And it is also necessary, during construction, to take care of creating a common air duct leading to the roof, through which the outlet will pass.
Advantages of the exhaust design:
- Removing polluted air from “problem areas” of the house - kitchen and bathroom.
- Possibility of adjusting the operation of devices, installing sensors and timers.
- Functionality and ease of use.
Disadvantages of the air exhaust system:
- Difficulties in ensuring flow through other rooms.
- Possibility of a vacuum.
- The need for regular maintenance.
Supply and exhaust
The ideal option for ventilation is the supply and exhaust ventilation system of the cottage. It provides for the organization of two parallel flows:
- for exhaust air removal;
- for serving fresh.
The supply and exhaust structure consists of an air duct divided into two parts. They contain fans with multidirectional action - on the outflow and inflow of air. Since such ventilation in a country house is of a complex type, it is equipped with a number of additional functions:
- Filtration system.
- Air cooling and heating.
- Sensors and timers.
- Noise regulators.
Supply and exhaust systems include:
- Systems with electric heater.
- Systems with water heater.
In addition, the systems can be equipped with a freon evaporator (cooler), which will ensure the creation of a microclimate.
The disadvantage of the supply and exhaust method is the high cost of such a design, as well as the complexity of installation and maintenance. The elements of the system should be thought through at the stage of building construction.
Rules for organizing ventilation in a cottage
To correctly calculate and, it is worth taking into account the standard norms for private houses. The main rule is that at least 50–60 m³ of fresh air enter each room within an hour. Air humidity should not exceed 50%, and its flow speed should not exceed 1.0 m/s.
If you choose a complex ventilation system (forced), it is advisable to contact a specialist for the correct selection of air exchange and placement of air ducts. There may be a need to develop design estimates.
Development of a home ventilation project includes:
- selection of equipment;
- drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.
The ventilation device in a private house must take into account the volume of air masses in all rooms and pay special attention to the ventilation of the kitchen and bathroom. In addition, the ventilation system must be designed in such a way that all its elements are freely accessible to humans. This will make it easier to repair and maintain the system.
It is especially important to select devices that operate on air supply and exhaust. Their power and performance must correspond to the amount of air mass in the house. They must also be durable, easy to install and use.
Ventilation in a brick house should be thought out already at the stage of construction of the building. Only in this case will it be possible to carry out the calculation and installation of all structural elements as accurately and efficiently as possible. Otherwise, you will have to resort to simple natural or forced ventilation systems, which will not be able to provide sufficient efficiency.
Calculation of ventilation in a private house
Mandatory requirement: installations of residential premises, kitchens, bathrooms, garages and ITPs should not be combined into one system - each type of premises has its own installation.
where V is the volume of the room, m³;
k - air exchange rate (calculated individually for each room).
After receiving the data, air exchange must be rounded up to the nearest whole value. So, if the air exchange is 317 m³/hour, we take it as 320 m³/hour.
| Air exchange rate, m³/hour, not less | ||
|---|---|---|
| Room | Constantly | In maintenance mode |
| Bedroom, common room, children's room | 40 | 40 |
| Library, office | 20 | 20 |
| Pantry, linen, dressing room | 10 | 10 |
| Gym, billiard room | 20 | 80 |
| Laundry, ironing, drying room | 10 | 80 |
| Kitchen with electric stove | 20 | 60 |
| Kitchen with gas stove | 20 | 60 |
| Heat generator | 20 | 80 for 1 burner |
| Bathroom, shower, toilet | 5 | by calculation, but not less than 60 |
| Sauna | 5 | 40 |
| Garage | 20 | 5 for 1 person |
| Garbage collection chamber | 20 | 80 |
Selection of parts and devices for the ventilation system
Diagram for choosing an air duct cross-section depending on flow speed and air consumption
Proper ventilation in a private home includes the selection of the necessary equipment and the location of air ducts and grilles according to the following criteria:
- Air duct cross-sections are taken based on pressure, flow velocity and air consumption. An important factor to consider is the thickness of the material. With reduced thickness, vibration cannot be ruled out. Do not forget about the cross-section of rectangular air ducts (the height of the cross-section should not exceed three lengths). It is acceptable to make do with round sections, but this is not always possible.
- Noise levels inside the air ducts should not exceed 59 dB, otherwise additional noise suppressors are required.
Example of air flow distribution diagram
This article will discuss ventilation in a private house. Namely, how the correct supply ventilation of the house and the correct exhaust ventilation of the house are arranged. In addition, the ventilation scheme of a house with recuperation and the types of air ducts for the ventilation system of a private house will be discussed in general terms.
Ventilation in a private house is installed according to the following algorithm: first we calculate the air exchange and select the cross-section of the air ducts, select the type of ventilation system. Then a ventilation scheme in a private house is drawn up - we determine the installation location of the ventilation equipment, the places where fresh air is taken in and exhaust air is discharged, and the places where the air ducts will pass.
Ventilation system - natural or mechanical
For a person’s comfortable stay in the house, it is important not only the presence of fresh air and its temperature, but also the speed of air flow. And the smaller it is, the more comfortable it is to be in the room. The air exchange in a room with mechanical supply and exhaust ventilation (supply and exhaust fans) is greater than in a room with natural ventilation. This is due to the different normalized volumetric speed of air movement in the ventilation system for them. For mechanical ventilation it is 3-5 m 3 /hour, and for natural ventilation no more than 1 m 3 /hour, that is, 3-5 times less. Therefore, natural ventilation of the house creates more comfortable conditions for people.
But there is one “but”, because of which it is sometimes impossible to do without mechanical ventilation. The fact is that the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger its cross-section is needed. Those. in order to pass the same amount of air, the cross-section of the ventilation duct for natural ventilation will be larger than for mechanical ventilation. For example, if we talk about hood, then in order to pass 300 m 3 /hour of air you will need a channel of 250x400 mm (or 350 mm in diameter) with natural air movement, or a 160x200 mm channel (or 200 mm in diameter) with mechanical hood. It is not always possible to place a large natural exhaust duct in the wall, and moving it outside the wall - under the ceiling or along the wall (as in office premises) is not always aesthetically pleasing in residential buildings. Therefore, with large areas of the house and correspondingly large figures for the required hood, it is often necessary to resort to mechanical hood. The flow of air into the room is also not always possible to do only in a natural way; more about this will be later.
Air flow
Scheme of organizing flow in a ventilated space
1 - air flow zone; 2 - air flow zone; 3 - air exhaust zone.
Whatever the type of supply and exhaust (natural or mechanical), in order for the air to move freely throughout the house from the supply units to the exhaust units, it is necessary to install flow grilles in the doors along the path of its movement. The flow of air is considered to be organized correctly if the most polluted room in the chain of air movement is the last. That is why the hood is usually installed in the kitchen and bathroom.
Door with overflow grille
Or leave a gap between the bottom of the door and the floor, at least 20 mm across the entire width of the door.
Gap under the door for free air movement
If there is no such gap in the doors, then the entire ventilation system in the house can be considered not working. In addition, you will hardly be able to open doors leading to a bathroom without a ventilation grille with a running exhaust fan (due to excess pressure).
Air flow
What causes the air flow, how to understand whether there is enough air in your home and what measures to take to increase the amount of supply air we will consider further.
As already mentioned, air flow can be carried out naturally or forcefully.
Infiltration is a natural influx through leaks in external barriers (windows, external doors and walls of the house).
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Natural air flow through leaks in window and door openings
As you know, ordinary old-style wooden windows have fairly high air permeability (about 10-20 kg/hour*m2). With a small house area, about 100-140 m2, the volume of fresh air penetrating through the cracks and the leakage of such windows is usually sufficient to ensure the necessary inflow. In addition, it is also added to, not so significant, but nevertheless, the flow of air through the leaks of the external doors, as well as the flow through the walls.
Natural influx through ventilation
Ventilation through an open window or crack when the folding frame of a metal-plastic window is slightly opened
Metal-plastic windows in ventilation position
Resulting in large heat losses;
As a result of such ventilation in winter, the window unit and adjacent slopes cool down, until condensation forms on them;
Air exchange (complete replacement of old air with new) is carried out in 30-75 minutes.
Ventilation with fully open windows
Ventilation with fully open windows
Fast air exchange in the room - only 4-10 minutes;
There is no cooling effect on structures.
Ventilation with windows and front door fully open
Ventilation by opening all windows and the front door
Dangerous draft;
The fastest air exchange is 2-4 minutes when all windows of the house and the front door are opened.
Note: If it is necessary to provide a single air exchange in a room (Table 4 DBN V.2.2-15-2005 Residential buildings), this means that within an hour in this room a complete exchange of air for new air must be carried out. And if ventilation is the only source of fresh air in your home (for example, the walls of the house are insulated with airtight foam insulation or EPS and there are airtight metal-plastic windows), then to ensure a microclimate that is comfortable and safe for your health, you must ventilate this room every hour using one of the methods described above. If you see this option as inconvenient or simply impossible for you, then consider installing supply valves, which will be discussed further.
Natural inflow through supply wall and window valves
In the last decade, the installation of windows made of metal-plastic has become very popular, one of the features of which is tightness. And the technology for installing such windows does not provide for leaks to remain. Thus we are deprived of natural influx. The air permeability of metal-plastic windows is no more than 0.1 kg/hour*m2, i.e. practically zero. What to do in such a situation? The solution is simple. Firstly, when choosing and ordering windows, we recommend considering the option of window units with an already built-in adjustable ventilation slot in the upper part of the window frame - a supply window valve.
Window with supply valve
If the windows have already been selected, purchased and installed, you can install an air infiltration valve - a supply wall valve.
Wall supply valve
The supply wall valve is a round pipe, which is mounted into the wall (through and through), and is closed with grilles on both sides. The internal valve grid is adjustable from fully closed to fully open. It is advisable to install this valve near window openings, then they can be masked with tulle, and the incoming air will also enter the radiators that are located under the windows.
Air flow in the radiator coverage area
For the same purpose, you can install a valve directly behind the battery, then the incoming air will immediately warm up.
Installing a supply valve directly behind the radiator
Valves can be equipped with filters, as well as humidity and temperature sensors. It is recommended to install dampers in the bedroom, hall and dining room in order to maintain the direction of air movement from clean areas (living rooms) to household areas (kitchen, toilet, bathroom).
The same valves often have to be installed in houses insulated with vapor-proof insulation, such as polystyrene foam or EPS. The walls become vapor-tight, and accordingly the amount of supply air in the house decreases.
Most supply valves supply 50 or 100 m3/h of fresh air. In order to select the required number of valves, you need to calculate the required amount of supply air (L in) using the calculation given in the article.
House with installed wall inlet valve
Forced inflow using suction fans
There are cases when the required air flow is so great that you need to install supply valves under almost every window in the house, but you don’t want to do this, for example, for aesthetic reasons. Then a forced air system is right for you.
The supply system consists of ventilation equipment and a ventilation network. The equipment includes: air valve, filter, heater, fan and silencer. And the network includes the air intake grille, air ducts and air distribution devices (grills, diffusers, anemostats). A set of supply ventilation equipment is shown in the figure below. A filter in the supply ventilation system is necessary to remove large dust particles that are present in the street air. Heater - for heating air during the cold season, they are not available in all systems, they are installed at the request of the customer and can be water or electric. When using water heaters, the ventilation system must be additionally equipped with mixing units (hydraulic piping of the heater), which in turn increases the cost of the system.
Scheme of a set of equipment for supply ventilation
If the house has mechanical not only air supply, but also air exhaust, then it makes sense to install air recovery system in order to save electricity for heating the supply air. The recovery system will be discussed in more detail a little later.
Air extraction
If the cottage is being built from scratch, then it is necessary to provide for ventilation ducts in the internal walls of the bathrooms, toilets, and kitchens. Channels should be made of brickwork in internal walls (as a rule, they are designed in the architectural section of the project).
Brick ventilation duct
Therefore, exhaust ventilation in a private house is planned before the construction of walls begins. If it is not possible to place ventilation ducts in the wall, then they can be made in the form of attached shafts.
Types of ventilation ducts
a - placement of ventilation ducts in a brick wall;
b - ventilation ducts;
c - suspended ventilation duct;
d - output to the roof of the ventilation shaft.
Natural exhaust
If the amount of air that needs to be removed (L out) is small, and the cross-section of the exhaust duct selected from the diagram fits in the wall (or does not fit, but you are ready to make an additional duct), then you can get by with a natural hood. The channel from inside the room, in this case, is simply closed with a ventilation grill.
Various types of ventilation grilles
Mechanical hood
If the cross-section of the channel during natural exhaust is too large, then it can be reduced by making the exhaust mechanical by installing exhaust fans in bathrooms and toilets.
Exhaust fans
There are many types and types of exhaust fans for bathrooms and bathrooms on the ventilation equipment market. The most popular are wall fans, which are mounted on the wall and go directly into the ventilation duct. And hidden-mounted fans, they are mounted in the ceiling space and are also discharged into the duct through an air duct. We select the fan based on the pre-calculated exhaust flow rate (L exhaust), taking into account pressure losses when air moves through the air ducts. Those. the fan is not selected specifically for the L out figure, but with a margin for pressure losses, which sellers of ventilation equipment can usually calculate if you tell them the length and material of your air ducts.
The control of a mechanical hood for bathrooms is often connected to a light switch. Such hoods can be delayed in time, for example, by 50 seconds, after they are turned on (a person has time to wash their hands) or with a delay of 50 seconds after turning off the light. Bathroom fans can be equipped with humidity sensors, i.e. work until normal humidity is established in the room. These hoods are a little more expensive than regular ones.
A completely silent fan, of course, can only be in the off state, but there are fan models that are quieter than others, for example those equipped with noise-reducing rubber-metal bushings. They dampen noise and vibration from engine operation.
Scheme of supply and exhaust ventilation in the building
1- exhaust fan; 2 - air flow through the leaks of the window opening; 3 - air flow through the supply valve; 4 - flow grille in the doorway.
Air movement on the floor
Ventilation systems with recovery
Recently, air handling units with energy recovery have become very popular. This is explained by the fact that when fresh supply air enters the house during the cold season, we spend a huge amount of thermal energy heating it. Recuperation systems allow you to save about 50% of heat due to partial heating of the supply (cold) air with the exhaust (warm) air. Partly because the heat of the exhaust air is not always enough to heat the cold supply air to +20 ºС. Therefore, in severe frosts, the supply air is heated by a heater built into the recuperator. In such a system, both the supply and exhaust are mechanical, since air is supplied and removed forcibly by supply and exhaust fans, as can be seen in the figure below.
Operating principle of the recovery system
If the house has air conditioning systems, then in the summer the supply air will be partially cooled. This in turn will reduce the load on the air conditioning systems. The operating principle is as follows: the exhaust air cooled by the air conditioning system, passing through the recuperator, cools the warmer supply air.
Location of recovery system equipment
In cottages with a large area, air exchange sometimes exceeds 800m 3 /hour. Consequently, the dimensions of mechanical ventilation units will be large. It is best to decide in advance on their installation location; this could be a technical room in the basement or an attic space. If an attic is selected, it must be insulated to prevent freezing of the coolant and damage to the ventilation equipment (if equipment for internal installation is provided). Below, the figures show examples of the location of ventilation system equipment with recovery in the attic (a) and in the technical room (b).
Figure a. An example of supply and exhaust ventilation in a house with ventilation equipment placed in the attic
Figure b. An example of supply and exhaust ventilation in a house with the placement of ventilation equipment in a technical room
Types of air ducts
With the forced ventilation option, air ducts are used to distribute supply air throughout the house and remove exhaust air (for example, as in the air recovery system in the figure above). Which is better to use an air duct: round, rectangular or flexible?
Round duct
Round air ducts with a perfectly smooth surface have the least resistance to air movement, while rectangular ones have more resistance.
Rectangular duct
In flexible air ducts, the air resistance is the greatest, due to the uneven corrugated surface. But they are the only ones suitable in cases where the channel turns several times over a short section or when, for example, a kitchen hood needs to be connected to the main (main) channel.
Flexible duct
For example, the wiring of air ducts at home can be done as follows: the main air ducts can be made rigid (galvanized), and the branches can be made with flexible corrugated air ducts. Air ducts from the intake grille to the ventilation unit (or to the heater in a dial system) must be insulated to prevent condensation.
Kitchen hood
Kitchen hood
Often, when configuring a home ventilation system, the question arises: is it taken into account when calculating ventilation that part of the air is removed by the kitchen hood? No, it is not taken into account. This is due to the fact that the kitchen hood is turned on only occasionally and you simply cannot count on it during downtime. After all, a kitchen hood is designed to remove odors, steam and, first of all, harmful substances at the place of their formation - above the stove.
In this article, we examined possible options for ensuring proper inflow and exhaust in the cottage. I hope they will help fill the walls of your home with fresh and clean air.
Let's start with a figurative comparison: labor protection rules are written in blood, and SNiP requirements for air exchange inside residential buildings are written in black mold. It is the fungus that forms in the corners of the rooms that indicates an increased moisture content plus a lack of fresh air. The purpose of the publication is to tell how ventilation is done correctly in a private house or apartment. The recommendations below will help you create a healthy microclimate in your home or fix the existing problem yourself.
Three types of ventilation systems
To provide for normal ventilation of premises, you need to understand the essence of the problem and know the technical means to help solve it. Proper ventilation in the house performs 2 functions - removing exhaust air and supplying a clean air mixture from the street.
The atmosphere of living rooms is polluted by several waste products of people:
- water vapor released during breathing and during cooking;
- carbon dioxide and other harmful compounds in small quantities;
- various unpleasant odors.
Reference. To create excess moisture, it is enough to light the gas stove; it is not necessary to boil the water. The products of methane combustion are carbon dioxide and water vapor. The first creates a feeling of stuffiness, the second saturates the air in the kitchen with moisture.
There are 3 types of general ventilation systems that can maintain the microclimate in the rooms of the building:
- Natural.
- Combined.
- Compulsory with mechanical motivation.
Before we consider the operating principle of each scheme, let us state an important rule: it is impossible to organize an exhaust hood without providing for an inflow, and vice versa. The removed air must be replaced by outside air, otherwise the effectiveness of ventilation will be reduced to zero.
Comparative example. Imagine a pump pumping water inside a sealed container. When the pressure in the reservoir reaches a certain threshold, the movement of liquid will stop regardless of the power and speed of the engine. The impeller will begin to mix the water in one place. Pumping (or sucking) air into an enclosed space will produce a similar result.
The principle of natural exhaust
Ventilation of this type works due to natural draft that occurs inside a vertical pipe and encourages air to move along the channel from bottom to top. It is important to understand what traction force depends on:
- The difference in atmospheric pressure at the lower and upper ends of the pipe. The higher the ventilation duct is built, the greater the pressure drop and traction power will be.
- The difference between room and street temperatures. The cold flow displaces the heated and lighter room air, which is why the latter tends to go to the upper zone of the room and further into the exhaust shaft.
- Degree of moisture saturation. Paradoxically, at the same temperature, the air mixture saturated with water vapor becomes lighter than dry air and also rises.
If you open the balcony door in a poorly ventilated apartment, a wet spot will form on the ceiling due to moisture condensation Reference. The relative molecular weight of water vapor is 18 units, air - 29. Accordingly, when humidified, the gas mixture becomes lighter. The effect is noticeable in the presented photo.
The temperature and humidity of the environment fluctuates throughout the year, followed by changes in traction force. This is why natural exhaust works less well in summer - the temperature difference is small. One parameter remains unchanged - the height of the channel and the pressure difference.
A natural ventilation device is the cheapest way to organize air exchange inside a country cottage. Natural draft is also used in most apartment buildings: supply air is supplied through special valves, and exhaust is carried out using vertical shafts running inside the walls.
Combined air exchange
In this case, natural ventilation in the house is enhanced by placing electric fans at certain points. There are 2 options:
- outside air is supplied by mechanized air supply units, exhaust occurs through a vertical channel;
- A low-power fan is placed on the exhaust shaft; the inflow is carried out through special valves with outlet to the wall.
A conventional wall valve supplies air without a fan A striking example of a combined option is a fan installed in the toilet or a kitchen hood. The first quickly removes unpleasant odors, the second sucks out harmful fumes during the cooking process.
Mechanized inflow is provided by local units built into the thickness of the wall (so-called breathers). The installation filters the outside air, plus during the cold period it heats it with an electric heating element. The feed volume and degree of heating are adjusted manually or automatically.
Combined ventilation is successfully used in all types of private houses - brick, frame, built from aerated concrete and SIP panels. If the fan is installed on an exhaust pipe, then the replacement of the heat removed along with the air falls on.
Breather device - local air supply unit Forced ventilation of the building
The operating principle of forced air exchange is simple - exhaust and supply are provided by mechanical ventilation units powered by electricity. There are quite a lot of schemes and options for such ventilation; here are some common examples:
- The influx is handled by breathers installed in all rooms. In the attic there is a general exhaust fan that collects exhaust air from the rooms and removes it outside.
- Each room has a separate supply and exhaust unit with a recuperator, built into the external wall.
- One common installation is responsible for air exchange - the central air conditioner. The unit cleans, humidifies, heats and cools the inflow depending on the conditions and time of year. Air distribution and extraction is carried out by a network of ventilation ducts. A recovery function is also present.
- The microclimate inside the home is maintained by fan coil units with heating/cooling function. Hot water from a gas boiler and refrigerant from a chiller (a type of refrigeration machine) are supplied to the heat exchangers.
The simplest scheme of forced air exchange Explanation. Recuperation is the process of selecting thermal energy from the exhaust air, which is used to heat the influent air. A special heat exchanger is used - a recuperator, where counter air flows intersect but do not mix.
A special feature of mechanical ventilation systems is the combination of ventilation with air heating. What's the point of spending money, designing and installing a radiator circuit when you need to heat the supplied air? The correct solution is to increase the inlet temperature to 30-50 °C and thus compensate for heat loss through the external walls, and not provide radiators and heated floors at all.
Scheme of movement of counter flows in the recuperator Which option is better
If you want to arrange the ventilation of a private house with your own hands, we recommend giving preference to the first two systems – natural and combined. Arguments in favor of these options:
- Acceptable financial costs for installation and operation.
- Minimum electricity consumption. Exhaust fans of combined systems operate periodically and consume a total of 100-200 W/h. Heated supply units will take more - about 500 W for each room.
- Ventilation with natural impulse is quite capable of ensuring normal air exchange in a one- and two-story building, especially inside a country house.
- There is no need to allocate the useful volume of the building for the placement of ventilation equipment and the laying of air ducts.
- There is no need for maintenance of units, annual cleaning of filters and air channels.
Important point. The installation of fully mechanized general ventilation requires a thorough approach - calculations, design and qualified installation. It will not be possible to do without developers with specialized education and competent performers.
The last nuance: if forced ventilation was not initially provided for in the house, it will not be easy to allocate space for laying air ducts. You'll have to get creative and put ventilation ducts under the floor or in wooden ceilings and pass them through rooms. In addition, part of the living area will be occupied by equipment, as the expert will talk about in the video:
Doing ventilation correctly
When organizing air exchange, we propose to take as a basis the system with natural impulse as the cheapest and most widespread. This option is also suitable for all types of outbuildings - bathhouses, sheds, chicken coops, cellars and so on.
Comment. Conversations that natural ventilation draws a lot of precious heat out of the house are untrue tales from sellers of various equipment. If there are no gaps in the house for the passage of outside air, then the hood will remove exactly as much as the influx allows, as we wrote about above.
Before you do ventilation, you need to find out the volume of air in the supply and calculate the total air exchange. – a big topic of our separate article.
As an example, we use the layout of a one-story house. The drawing shows the air flow pattern and the location of the supply and exhaust devices. A number of rules must be followed:
- external inflow must be organized in all rooms except corridors and bathrooms;
- the direction of flows inside the house - from living quarters to the more contaminated kitchen and bathroom;
- the ventilation duct block is made in the partition between the bathroom and the kitchen or attached to the outer wall;
- the height of the pipes is determined by calculation, the minimum for a one-story building is 2 meters;
- Separate shafts are built for the toilet, kitchen and local mechanized hoods so that odors do not flow into neighboring rooms;
- Vertical channels made of plastic pipes passing through a cold attic must be insulated so that you do not have to deal with condensation.
A modern method of rapid thermal insulation of plastic pipes is spraying Polynor polyurethane foam Important clarification. The air exchange diagram in a two-story dwelling looks similar. Since there is no kitchen room, a separate exhaust duct is provided in the bathroom or other point.
Now we will consider in detail the organization of flows for each room.
Living rooms: bedroom, children's room, living room
In recreational areas with permanent occupants, it is important to create a healthy atmosphere - to supply clean air from outside in the following ways:
- install an Aereco type supply valve into the window profile;
- install an adjustable ventilation valve into the wall;
- install a breather with a fan and additional heating of the air stream.
Reference. In Soviet-built multi-story buildings, a special supply slot was provided at the bottom of the window sill. In the process of replacing wooden windows with plastic ones, installers seal the specified opening. Without inflow, the draft of the vertical shaft does not work, the ventilation of the apartment does not function. Hence the increased humidity, fungus and other delights.
Supply valves should be installed at a height of approximately 2 m from the floor. The convective flow rising from the radiators mixes and heats the cold influx. The hood is a 15-20 mm high gap left under the interior door.
Air is sucked into the opening under the influence of vacuum created by the kitchen and toilet ventilation ducts. Moving at low speed (0.1-0.2 m/s), the air mass enters the corridor and rushes to the mouth of the exhaust grille.
Advice. Today's interior doors often fit snugly in the vestibule, not allowing air into the corridor. Buy door leaves with a built-in cross-flow grille or install one yourself.
Options for built-in ventilation grilles Kitchen-dining room
The atmosphere of this room is polluted by gas combustion products, excess moisture and emissions from people entering along with the air of other rooms. Ventilation should be arranged according to the following rules:
- There are 2 inflow points - a slot at the bottom of the door leaf and an adjustable valve in the wall (window profile).
- Ideally, 2 vertical pipes are built, leading to the roof - for general ventilation and kitchen hood. Then fat and soot will not clog the main channel.
- Air intake grilles are mounted under the ceiling.
- It is allowed to install one exhaust shaft of sufficient diameter.
- The channel should only be open from the kitchen side. You cannot let air in from the toilet there - the smell will penetrate into the dining room.
Note. According to SNiP requirements, the room requires a single air exchange plus 100 m³/h for a gas stove or 60 m³/h for an electric one. That's why you need to arrange 2 tributaries.
A mechanical kitchen hood cannot be connected directly to the shaft - when the fan is turned off, the channel cross-section is blocked by grease filters and an impeller. Use a tee and check valve as the homeowner suggests in the video:
Bathroom – toilet and bath
The standard ventilation scheme for a wet room is simple:
- Air from the hallway leaks into the bathroom under the front door.
- Mixing with the damp environment of the bathroom, it becomes lighter and rises to the ceiling.
- Under the influence of draft in the grille located in the upper zone, the air is slowly drawn into the exhaust duct and thrown out.
Sectional diagram of air exchange of a building In order to quickly remove moisture and unpleasant odors from the toilet, an axial fan can be built into the shaft opening. One condition: the idle impeller of the unit should not block the air flow, otherwise the ventilation efficiency will decrease. Use an adapter with an additional grille or a tee with a check valve.
Boiler room and other rooms
For normal operation of any boiler, except an electric one, a certain amount of air is required for combustion. The exact volume or specific requirements for furnace ventilation are always specified in the operating instructions for the heat generator.
The air mixture is supplied to the boiler room through the door, and exhaust is done through a separate vertical channel. The grate is placed in the upper zone of the combustion chamber; no additional fans need to be installed.
An important nuance. The chimney of a solid fuel or gas boiler serves as a powerful exhaust hood, especially during combustion. If the furnace is built inside the cottage, then the draft of the chimney will carry away most of the air from the living rooms on the first floor. Therefore, it is advisable to equip the pipe heads with deflectors that enhance traction.
It is better to install external and internal ventilation ducts of the house from plastic or tin pipes of the calculated diameter. Air ducts laid through a cold attic must be insulated.
It is acceptable to use plastic pipes for internal sewage, but keep one caveat in mind: gray polypropylene can burn on its own. PVC ventilation ducts are made of attenuating plastic. For installation details, see the video.
Conclusion
When analyzing the methods of ventilation of a private house, we did not mention the source of additional inflow - infiltration. Air leakage through small cracks in modern homes is virtually absent or reduced to a minimum thanks to new windows and door seals. It makes no sense to take into account the flow through the smallest pores.