Let's look at repairing a floor fan with our own hands, using the example of a typical product from the Krasnodar plant. There is nothing complicated inside, but it is not easy to immediately describe the method of adjusting the rotation speed. The design is average. The relatively heavy body tramples on the weightless leg, sensing the slightest push, the product falls. The situation is aggravated by lying carpets. The four plastic supports scattered at the corners of the thin steel cross do not help. The stand is fragile, bends easily, and is supported by snot. Therefore, the first recommendation is not to deal with products that have mechanical instability, so as not to become infected with mental instability. Bork products are equipped with fall protection, but not products from the Krasnodar plant. However, the motor will not burn out in case of excess, there is protection...

Design of a typical floor fan

Do-it-yourself floor fan repair is on the agenda! You should start small: the simplest fans do not have a ground terminal. The device does not have a degree of electrical safety. The floor fan device includes a housing made of plastic. If water gets inside, expect a good shake. This type of floor fan should not be used near water. Starting with an aquarium with fish, ending with a flower vase. Particularly dangerous where small children live. If the thing falls, the child will guess to pour milk inside... Draw your own conclusions:

• the structure is unstable;
• the base breaks easily and bends;
• There is no protection against electric shock.

If a floor fan falls, there is a high probability that nothing will happen. Let's dive inside the structure. Let's leave aside for now the features of regulating the engine speed and buttons. Let's talk about the gearbox. The Krasnodar floor fan carries one asynchronous capacitor motor. The front side of the shaft is connected to the blades through a pin and a nut with a left-hand thread, the rear side goes to a gearbox formed by two gears, one double.

The shaft is equipped with a thread that engages the teeth of a large wheel as it rotates. The moment is transmitted to the small wheel, which drives the flywheel. The gear of the crank mechanism is the diameter of a hand, so the rotation is inferior to the speed of the original shaft of the asynchronous motor.

1. The blades spin at full motor speed.
2. The crank mechanism, thanks to the gearbox, moves more slowly.

Through the cardan transmission, the crank is hooked onto the leg, and the engine housing is mounted on the axle. When the shaft of an asynchronous motor rotates, the blades move smoothly in one direction or the other. However, you can stop the process. With a double gear, the roller is attached to the larger gear by two balls with a spring inserted into through hole. If you pull the adjuster knob directly connected to the axle, the latch slides up. The connection between the gear and shaft is lost, and rotation stops. The mechanism implements fall protection: internally mounting hole The drive gear has six grooves cut into it. Balls fit. There are six positions, the mutual transition is accompanied by a click, the axis rotates relative to the gear, the balls hit the walls, sliding into the grooves.

Clicking sounds are heard, there is a high probability that the floor fan has fallen. The drive is jammed, it works, clicking, a protective mechanism, protecting the motor from combustion.

We believe that the mode is unfavorable for a floor fan; if you do not turn off the device, the thermal fuse of the motor will certainly break. The gearbox is fastened with three bolts to the engine, cut through a pair of lubrication holes through which you can lubricate plastic gears. Refers to a drive rotating at the speed of an asynchronous motor.

Headache, how to fix a floor fan and assemble it. We see the situation: the relative position of the gearbox is incorrectly set, the legs through the gear, the head of the floor fan will move asymmetrically relative to the frontal plane. Can be annoying. Attach the gearbox, check the product by connecting power. Be careful not to get an electric shock, try to visually determine the correctness of the assembly.

Floor fan motor

Inside the fan there is an asynchronous motor with regulation of the shaft rotation speed by switching the windings. A capacitor is attached to the gearbox. The radio element is not a trigger element. We believe that it is not for nothing that the windings are fastened four in two rows, shifted relative to each other by an eighth of a turn. Field rotation uses voltage phase and 90 degree shift. The equipment is useless at this point, one winding of the asynchronous motor of the floor fan will burn out, and the motor will have to be replaced. It is not possible for a beginner to wind a complex product on his own.

Speed ​​control is performed by switching the supply voltage to the appropriate wires by switching the buttons on the stand. One core goes from the cord from the outlet to the engine, and the position of the second is selected by the operator. Only one of the speeds is pressed at a time, which is ensured mechanical methods parallel blocking. Krasnodar products are pleased with the presence of backlighting: the top button ensures that the diode lights up. Allows you to avoid collisions with a floor fan in the dark. Indirectly indicates: the manufacturer is aware of the instability of the product.

The engine is made up of an insulated silumin rotor-drum, and the wiring of the coils is sealed. The structure remains unknown for obvious reasons; the question is meaningless. We believe that the probability of rotor failure is relatively small; the armature receives power from the stator. The structure is usually represented by a squirrel cage. A set of longitudinal conductors arranged in a circle, united by two rings at the ends. At both ends of the rotor there is an impeller that blows air over the stator coils. Will allow asynchronous motor work harder. The Krasnodar floor fan has plastic impellers.

In case of uncertainty, test the wiring from the button (without disassembling the fan), examining the underlying fault. The resistance of the working winding is never zero, it is too high. The break is not difficult to guess. The starting winding rings from the contacts of the capacitor. The direction of rotation is determined by the relative position of the starting and main windings, therefore, if you mix them up, you will get the wrong result.

Of course, if at least one winding fails, the engine will not work. One phase is not enough to accelerate the rotor. Rotate the blades clockwise (with your hand withdrawn) to determine the presence characteristic malfunction. The floor fan will start working - one winding has burned out. It is incorrect to talk about starting and working coils; copper coils are identical. The motor is capacitor.

Floor Fan Motor Speed ​​Control Method

Nothing is said about the speed control method, which is not surprising. In the model considered, four wires come to the coils, one supplies a plug. The other three enter the winding through fabric cambrics. What is inside is not known for certain. The choice is small; an asynchronous motor with an insulated rotor is controlled in two ways:

1. Change in voltage amplitude.
2. Switching windings with an unequal number of turns.

We do not take into account inverter control, in this case there's just nowhere to fit one like that complex scheme. What remains is regulation of the voltage amplitude. Each wire has an unequal number of turns. If one speed (two) fails, the cambrics will have to be cut, therefore, it will become obvious and electrical diagram engine. A diligent master will wind a new coil, a lazy one will take money from the client to buy a new engine (the old one will be used for non-ferrous metal).

The number of turns is indirectly determined through the resistance ratios between the terminals of each speed. The tester uses a constant voltage to measure the quantity, so the inductive part of the impedance is eliminated from consideration. The number of turns is directly proportional to the ohmic resistance of the winding section.

How to disassemble a floor fan

From what has been said, it is clear: there is nothing to break inside the floor fan. This is a motor and a capacitor. The rest falls on the mechanical part, the gearbox. If there is whistling or noise, try lubricating the gears. How to do this is clear from what has been said. There are a couple of holes in the gearbox housing for these purposes. Solid oil is suitable for plastic parts.

Repairing a floor fan yourself shouldn't be too difficult. Replace the motor with one of suitable weight and size. The main types of breakdowns concern the mechanical part; restoration is carried out using conventional (welding plastic with polyethylene) methods with skilled hands.

There are many in the car important nodes and the quality of the machine as a whole depends on how well they work. One of these is the cooling system. It often happens on some models that the cooling fan is constantly running. It's not very good sign. Insufficient engine cooling can lead to overheating of the engine - and this, in turn, can result in damage to the owner. a large sum on major renovation. But if you know the reasons for such operation in the cooling system, you can quickly identify where the fault is hidden and eliminate it. In order to find a breakdown, you do not need special knowledge and skills. Even a beginner can handle this. There are not many reasons why the cooling fan is constantly running.

The principle of operation of a fan in a cooling system

One of the reasons why a fan may run constantly or turn on frequently is due to the way the system operates. The fan starts at the command of a special sensor. It is located on the bottom of the radiator. This sensor is responsible for the coolant temperature indicators. If it is larger than needed, then the radiator fan will start.

When its blades rotate, additional airflow is created. It helps reduce which then passes through the channels in the engine. The cooling fan constantly works only on motors that for some reason overheat. To avoid serious problems, it is necessary to respond to this problem immediately.

Thermostat

The engine may overheat due to the thermostat. It often happens that the mechanism of this element jams. The fan, in turn, necessarily reacts to this. The thermostat itself remains only half open.

As a result, the coolant cannot effectively remove heat from the engine as its movement through the system slows down. When power unit overheats and the coolant temperature rises, the sensor reacts to this event and starts the fan. Owners of Opel Astra cars often encounter this problem - the cooling fan is constantly running. And the problem is solved by replacing the thermostat.

How to check the cooling system thermostat

Testing it is quite simple. To do this, you need to start the engine and warm it up to such temperatures when the valves of this mechanism operate. You can find out the temperature threshold directly on the device body. Usually it is 72 or 80 degrees. Then you need to check the temperature at the lower and upper pipes. If both are at approximately the same temperature, then the reason why the cooling fan is constantly running has been found. It is recommended to carefully inspect the thermostat valves after removing it. It is useless to repair this unit (it is easier and cheaper to buy a new one). By the way, if this element is dismantled, it can be checked without installing it in the car. To do this, the thermostat is placed in a container of water, which is then heated. Increasingly, the valve should open. If this does not happen, the device is faulty.

Cooling pump

Sometimes the reason why the cooling fan keeps running and won't turn off is the water pump. The temperature in the radiator rises because its speed is slowed down. When liquid enters the cooling radiator, the antifreeze simply does not have time to cool down to required temperatures and moves on to the next round. At the same time, the liquid heats up even more.

When the pump works somehow, the fan may indicate a problem. If the pump completely breaks down, then the engine will immediately boil - this is where serious problems and expensive repairs usually begin.

Pump faults

Often, the pump does not stop working suddenly. Initially, the pump gives various signals about breakdowns - for example, the engine cooling fan is constantly running or turns on frequently.

The main reason for pump failure is considered to be the bearing - it jams or collapses. You can tell that the pump has failed by the characteristic sounds coming from under the hood. They sound like some kind of howling or knocking. These sounds can be heard even at idle. Novice motorists often do not pay attention to these noises. Pump knocks are mistaken for camshaft malfunctions. To fix the problem, you need to replace the pump. Depending on the model, it is possible to install only the front part of the pump and replace the bearing.

Clogged cooling system channels

Often the engine overheats due to congestion in the cooling system. The situation is further complicated by the fact that diagnosing this problem can be quite difficult. Therefore, if the cooling fan constantly works or turns on more often than usual, it would not be superfluous to flush the SOD channels. In most cases, these activities are more than enough to ensure everything works correctly. Experts also recommend not limiting yourself to just flushing, but also additionally venting the radiator.

How to clean the cooling system

When cleaning the channels of the cooling system and radiator, the antifreeze is also replaced. To perform flushing, the old antifreeze must be drained. Then a fairly strong solution based on citric acid. It's effective folk remedy, but there are also various liquids with additives.

After this, start the engine - so the car should run for 30 minutes. This is enough to thoroughly clean all channels. Then you can turn off the engine, drain the cleaning mixture, and finally add fresh antifreeze. Often in this way it is possible to completely solve problems in the operation of the cooling system if the reasons are contamination.

Clogged radiator

Experienced car owners know that the radiator is installed in the front of the car. When moving, it is blown by wind and air from the street. Also, it is the radiator that receives all the dirt and road dust. Poplar fluff, bird feathers and much more accumulate on the element. Over time, all this debris gets clogged inside the plates, thereby reducing the efficiency of heat transfer. The counter cools antifreeze poorly. It gets hot and the cooling fan is constantly running.

How to flush a radiator

To correct the situation and protect the motor from harmful overheating, it is recommended to clean the element. On most modern cars, the part must first be dismantled, but cleaning can often be done without dismantling.

Experts recommend cleaning with ordinary water. It is best if it is supplied through a hose. Sometimes it makes sense to clean the radiator cells with a brush and only then flush them. Often this procedure is combined with blowing the radiator with compressed air.

Air locks in the cooling system

For experienced car owners air jams- this is not a secret at all. They arise due to some errors during the process of replacing the coolant. Leaks in the system are also the cause. Antifreeze cannot warm up evenly. This leads to instability in the fan operation. It often turns on or even works without interruption - hot coolant enters the radiator. Before you try to eliminate these same traffic jams, you need to check the system for leaks. If they are found, then they should be eliminated. Next you need to remove the plugs. For this you need a compressor. One tube is unscrewed from the throttle, which supplies fluid. Then a compressor is connected to the neck of the expansion tank and the air supply begins. Two to three minutes will be enough for all traffic jams to go away.

Problems with the temperature sensor

If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2107 is constantly running, then the radiator temperature sensor on both carburetor and injection cars is often to blame. In most cases, it is simply in a closed state.

If these are the symptoms, then check the time for which the fan turns on and compare the temperature when it turns on with the standard one. If the indicators are lower, then the problem is easily solved by replacing the sensor.

Insulation for winter

Many motorists try during winter - there is an opinion that this way the engine will warm up faster and save fuel. However, during thaws the air temperature rises. If insulation is installed, the engine will not be able to cool effectively. This may be the answer to the question of why it constantly works. But this is a fairly rare reason.

Summarize

So, among the most popular reasons why a fan is unstable are problems with electronics. This is exactly what most car owners complain about on specialized forums. Many solve this problem by replacing the sensor and fuses. And it helps. In half of the cases, the issue can be resolved by replacing the thermostat. The situation can also be improved by cleaning the radiator.

Problems happen on any car; this topic worries Ford Focus car owners. The cooling fan runs constantly on luxury cars as well. It is important to notice this problem in time, otherwise it can lead to disastrous consequences. In case of severe overheating, the engine can only be helped by a major overhaul with the replacement of the cylinder head, cylinders, pistons and other components.

What should I do if, when I turn on the computer, it does not turn on, but the fans start and stop?

What should I do if the fans start and stop when I turn on my computer?

This situation is very frequent malfunction, in which the system unit refuses to start. When you press the power button, the processor fan seems to start spinning, but literally stops after a second. Naturally there is no image on the screen.

In this article we will tell you about possible reasons such behavior, as well as what you can try to do yourself at home in order to try, if not fix it, then at least diagnose the breakdown.

Possible reasons

First, in this situation, you need to try it on the motherboard. Some boards will not start if the battery is dead.

Replacing the power supply

If it is not possible to temporarily replace the power supply, then at least try starting your power supply manually.

Connection of the 4th and 6th pins of the 20-pin power supply connector

pay attention to external condition the motherboard, or rather the capacitors on it. Are there any swollen ones among them that could cause such a malfunction?

One of the reasons is a swollen capacitor

Sometimes there are problems with the power button. Therefore, we recommend that you try to start the motherboard by disabling the power button and .

This is what the connected power button looks like

If manual start without a button does not lead to a positive result, then we try the following. We remove everything from the motherboard RAM, video card, disconnect both cables from the CD drive and hard drive.

Required with USB and audio connectors.

Connecting the front USB inputs to the motherboard

We leave only the processor, processor cooler and power supply connected to the motherboard. Let's try to turn it on.

If the result is positive and checkmate. the board still started, then we try to install all the removed elements in place one by one to identify what is causing the problem. It's not uncommon for a computer to not turn on or fans to start and stop due to problematic CD drives or shorted USBs on the front panel.

In the case when replacing the power supply did not help, as well as removing everything attachments from the motherboard, with a 99% probability we can say that the problem is in the motherboard itself and needs to be replaced.

All coolers have bearings. There are different types of plain bearings or just a bushing, or a rolling bearing. Fans with a conventional hub usually have a shorter service life compared to fans with rolling bearings. Usually the fan with sleeve bearings wears out, you can hear the fan starts to hum, vibration appears, sometimes it just jams and stops, in this case we have overheating or some kind of alarm from the motherboard or installed drivers.

The cooler in the computer is noisy

When a user complains to you that their computer is loud, there are actually only two types of components that can create that noise: disk drives and cooling fans. But in most cases, you will find that the noise is generated by one of the cooling fans inside the computer. Most computers have three cooling fans, one inside the power supply, one on the case itself, and one on the processor. Of course, each of these cooling fans is designed to keep the entire system as cool as possible by creating a constant air flow inside the case that will draw cool air while moving hot air.

If any of these cooling fans fail, the system can overheat and cause operational problems. So your first instinct is to simply replace the noisy fan. Although this is a fairly simple operation, it is not always necessary. In many cases, the cooler only needs one drop of oil.

The cooler on the processor, power supply or video card does not spin

If the cooler on the processor, video card and power supply does not spin, then you may have two reasons.

First reason, the most common and inexpensive, the cooler has stopped spinning because its lubricant has dried out and after one drop of oil it will serve you faithfully.

The second reason, this is a failed cooler, you can check it with a multimeter in dialing mode; if it rings, it means the cooler is in working condition. You need to call the black and red wires.

How can I lubricate the cooler?

Many people use WD-40 to lubricate all sorts of squeaky or noisy mechanical components around their home and office. But don't try to use WD-40 to lubricate your computer fan. WD-40 is designed as a cleaner/degreaser that can be used to loosen stuck parts, prevent corrosion, and displace water—all types of problems not typically found in computer fans. WD-40 is also a lightweight lubricant that is better at lubricating something like a hinge that only moves occasionally, rather than a computer component like a fan that is constantly moving at high speeds.

I prefer to use machine oil or oil for sewing machines, since it, in addition to being a light oil, has excellent viscosity and holds well at high temperatures and is specifically designed to lubricate moving parts operating at high speeds. There is also a special silicone oil for coolers.

How does a computer cooler work?

Almost all computer cooling fans are designed around a sleeve bearing assembly, although I have encountered some computer cooling fans that use a ball bearing assembly. In this article I will focus on the assembly of plain bearings.

The journal bearing assembly consists of a shaft (to which the fan blade is attached) that rotates inside a stationary cylinder. In this case, the cylinder is made of porous metal impregnated with oil. As the shaft rotates, oil is forced out of the cylinder, creating a film of oil along which the shaft moves. This film of oil prevents metal-to-metal contact and thereby eliminates friction and almost all noise. This type of bearing assembly is shown in the picture above.

A plain bearing assembly consists of a shaft that rotates inside a stationary cylinder.

In an ideal bearing arrangement, the amount of oil in the bearing is the correct amount and remains constant throughout the life of the fan. However, if the assembly is not sealed properly, some of the oil may dry out over time. When this happens, the rotating shaft will come into direct contact with the stationary cylinder, which creates a scraping or grinding sound.

In addition to noise, increased friction will cause the fan to spin more slowly, which in turn will reduce airflow. If airflow is reduced, the system will run hotter than it should, putting certain components at risk of failure. Replenishing the oil in the journal bearing assembly will change this condition.

How to lubricate the power supply cooler and system unit cooler.

First, unscrew the cooler in the computer, disconnect the wires going to the cooler, clean off the dust, and place it on the table, if this cooler is from the power supply or the cooler is from the outlet warm air from the system unit, then carefully remove the sticker located on the opposite side of the blades. There must be sealing rubber or a plastic cover that you need to open and use a syringe to drop a drop of oil.

Then rotate the cooler blades with your fingers so that the oil is distributed evenly over the entire surface. Next, close the sealing rubber plug and glue the sticker; if the sticker does not stick, then glue a piece of insulated material instead.

There are also non-separable coolers, they don’t have a sticker rubber seal There is a plastic insert soldered in there. However, this type of cooler can also be lubricated, but this is more difficult. But some non-separable coolers do not have a fixed washer, so the impeller can come out with little effort with your fingers, we try to separate the cooler blades from the body without much effort, if the cooler blades are separated, then lubricate the shaft with oil and insert it back, if not, then read on. To lubricate a non-separable cooler, we need a drill or pliers and a drill not too big size 2-4 mm. We drill a hole in the center, just be careful not to overdo it and damage the shaft and bearings, remove the plastic shavings from the hole then drop 1-2 drops of oil into drilled hole preferably using a syringe. After lubricating, rotate the cooler blades to distribute the oil evenly and cover the hole with electrical tape or something else of your choice, the main thing is to prevent the oil from running back out.

I advise you not to pour oil to the very edges as excess oil will still leak out.

How to lubricate a video card and processor cooler

To lubricate the cooler of a video card, you must first remove the video card; there will be a cooler with a radiator on it. If you have not changed the thermal paste for a long time, it is advisable to remove the cooler together with the radiator and change the thermal paste at the same time, read also how to apply thermal paste correctly. There will be basically 3 bolts under the cooler blades; unscrew them and disconnect the cooler from the radiator, but it should come out without effort.

WITH reverse side The impellers have a sticker, we also peel them off and see if there is a plastic or rubber cover, then remove the cover and roll a drop of oil, turn the impeller with your fingers and put everything back together in the reverse order.

If there is no cover behind the sticker, then take a drill from 2-4 mm, and you can use a drill; if there is no drill, you can turn the drill with pliers or poke it with a knife, if there is nothing at all, remove the plastic shavings and drip 1-2 drops of oil and seal the drilled hole with electrical tape so that the oil goes away nothing happened.

With lubrication of the processor cooler, basically everything is the same, only the attachment of the cooler to the radiator is different. It can be fixed with latches or secured with bolts. There are also types of coolers where you do not need to disconnect the cooler from the radiator to lubricate it, on them the cooler is immediately facing the side we need.

If you don’t quite understand how to lubricate the cooler, watch the video below where everything is shown clearly.

Video

Fan in computer unit The power supply serves to cool the system, prevents overheating of its elements and possible failure of the computer. Each part has its own resource, i.e. its service life, and over time, when you turn on your personal computer, you can only hear silence. This means that the fan has stopped spinning. This can happen for a number of reasons.

The main types of power supply failures include: contamination, foreign objects, grease, mechanical failure, power cord.

Pollution

The most common reason for a fan stopping is mechanical contamination. Air is constantly pumped into the system unit, and the dust contained in it settles on the fan elements over time.

The system unit includes all the main devices for receiving, transmitting, processing and storing information.

Eventually, there is so much of it that it prevents the blades from rotating. The easiest way to remove dust is to vacuum by placing the vacuum cleaner tube against the air hole. However, such cleaning will not help for long. It is better to disassemble the computer and clean the blades and other fan elements, mechanically removing dirt.

Foreign object

Despite the obstructive filters, small objects can get into the air intake hole - a paper clip, parts of a broken handle, screws. The reason can be found out and eliminated only by disassembling the system unit. In addition to simply stopping the fan, a foreign object can cause it to break, which is the next reason for failure.

Lubrication

The fan, like any mechanism, needs lubrication. It needs to be updated over time. Without lubrication, bearings overheat and do not provide sufficient rotation speed. This can be prevented by applying lubricant to the fan mechanisms.

As lubricant Synthetic machine oil is used for fan sliding bearings.

Mechanical failure

Mechanical failure can occur due to the entry of a foreign object or if the fan is of poor quality or old and has exhausted its service life. Any material has its own service life and, under dynamic loads, changes shape or breaks. Therefore, over time, any fan may develop a crack or bend its blades. In this case, only replacement will help.

Power cord

Often when moving the computer due to shaking or self-disassembly On the system unit, the wire powering the fan may come off the connector. As a result, it stops working due to lack of electricity. In this case, a visual check of the fan wires will help.

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