Roller skis are roller skis. By analogy with roller skates, they are intended for skating on asphalt, for summer training of skiers, and for competitions. Among fans of roller skiing there are both beginner amateurs and professional athletes.
Marking
A pair of roller skis consists of two platforms with rollers attached to them. The rollers themselves are equipped with mudguards. New roller ski bindings often come separately and can be classic or skate. Self-installation fastenings begin with markings. Attach the ski binding assembly to the platform so that the widest part of the binding sole is aligned with the middle of the roller platform. If you are attaching classic bindings for classic running, butt the fastenings to the rear mudguard. After this, mark the location for screwing in the front mounting screw.Some models of roller skis are sold already marked for installation of bindings. Typically they contain two sets of screw marks. The first is for large size shoes (more than 40), the second is for small shoes (size less than 40). It is better to install fasteners using a special template to ensure maximum accuracy.
Fastening
Before screwing in the screws, pre-drill holes for them. For drilling, use a drill with adjustable speed and drill bits that provide required diameter and hole depth. If you have access to specialized equipment, use a special drill with an extension. It ensures that the drill is centered in the drill and stops at the required depth. When using a standard drill, use drills with a diameter of 3.4-3.6 mm. If drilling occurs with the help of a brace, the use of a jig is mandatory: without it, the drill often moves to the side.For fastening, use the self-tapping screws included with the fasteners. Although they are difficult to twist, they hold securely and firmly. Before screwing in, the screws can be moistened with machine oil to reduce the force applied to the screwdriver. Unlike skis, drilling holes in rollerblades must be done with the utmost care. While an erroneous hole in skis can be sealed with a plug, this cannot be done on roller skates. To drive screws, you can use screwdrivers with PH 3 or PZ 3 bits.
Many athletes use alternative method screwing fasteners using screws with countersunk head type M4x25. The screwing points are marked with a stencil, the lower part is drilled out for steel hollow T-shaped pistons. The pistons are inserted from below and countersunk screws are screwed into them. Unlike self-tapping screws, although this method is more labor-intensive, it is much more accurate and reliable when using rollers intensively. This option is also ideal for those who have already unsuccessfully drilled holes for self-tapping screws.
Both at a professional and amateur level, it is perhaps one of the most popular winter pastimes for a huge number of people. Some people prefer to actively relax at the nearest rental point for this sports equipment, while others purposefully go to famous ski resorts, basically, for the same thing.
You can even get paper jigs or universal jigs to help with self-tuning. Make sure you know what you're doing or you might ruin your big new skis. Technicians also use special drill bits to prevent drilling all the way through the skis. Drill bit sizes vary for types of skis: wood, composite, metal cores and children's skis. After technicians clear the chips from the holes, they insert a little glue to help secure the screws.
What determines the choice of fastening?
Of course, one of the main roles in high-quality and enjoyable skating is played by the equipment itself. The range of skis today is very large, and they differ both in manufacturer brands and in their purpose (cross-country, mountain, jumping). The price range is also wide, so you should immediately decide on the amount planned for purchase.
They then screw the bindings onto the skis. After the glue has dried, they adjust the bindings and check them for proper release. The binding straps need two adjustments to suit your load in terms of length and pressure. The length of your sole, a millimeter measurement, is usually imprinted on the heel or side. Using a screwdriver, the technician adjusts the finger to this length.
The height or pressure of your legs should be appropriate for your load. Some bindings automatically adjust the toe height before loading; others require a certified technician to make a minimum adjustment of less than half a millimeter. This allows your boot to work with the anti-friction device that is located under the toe.
Sometimes lovers of winter skiing are faced with a very serious problem. How to properly install bindings on skis? You can entrust the installation process to specialists, but if you want to save some financial resources and simply gain additional experience, you should understand the technology of this work yourself.
What does a ski binding consist of?
The design of this element, which is designed to ensure safety, includes a heel and a front head, which must be adjusted in accordance with the parameters of a particular person (weight, shoe size, etc.).
To strengthen the binding heel to the boot, you need to move the binding to the heel of the boot. Using a screwdriver, the technician will slide the fastener into place and then test it. If stuck too tightly, the boot will not be released; if it's too loose, the load will simply slide out.
The technician will also check the ski brakes to make sure they are the correct width for your skis and that they are working correctly. The brake levers should lie flat or parallel with the skis when the rack is in the saddle. When the detent is released, the brakes should swing down and back.
On the mount itself there are special pins, the function of which is to fix the boot. There are also special brackets and bends that allow the leg to move freely inside, but prevent it from slipping. Usually these elements are shaped like the toe of a boot, which cannot but have a positive effect on the comfort of riding.
The heel of the mount is designed to provide the skier with safety during falls. In modern samples, this ability is called vertical elasticity. In addition, with the help of this part of the fastening the level of vibrations entering the boot is significantly reduced.
This refers to the force required to tie down to release the boot to reduce the likelihood or severity of injury. Remember those embarrassing questions the ski technician asked when you brought your gear? This is where they come into play. On your binding, this number is set on the toe and heels.
The lower the setting or number, the less force is required for your binding to be released. This is especially important when your body is moving in one direction and your ski is moving in another. Bindings that release can prevent the knees from rotating in the wrong direction.
How to ensure installation of the retainer?
So, proper ski mounting is accomplished in part by proper drilling. This should not be done by eye or using marks. Often you can purchase a special conductor from the manufacturer, thanks to which a good result will be guaranteed.
For making holes there is big choice drills, each of which is suitable for one or another type of ski: section 4.1x9.5 mm - for metal coatings, 3.5x9.5 - for wooden ones, and 3.5x7 mm will be a good solution for junior sports equipment, the thickness of which is less than that of adult models.
How to install ski bindings
Therefore, the bindings will be easier to release. For adult senior or intermediate skiers, the number may be increased to accommodate the increased weight, somewhere between 3. Otherwise, their weight would only cause them to jump out of their bindings on every turn.
Skiers who like speed and parking jumps may need to go with a higher setting of 6. Racers, professional skiers and alpine skiers use the highest settings, around 8. The higher the setting, the greater the risk and the more you have to rely on your skills to free you from the twisting fall.
After drilling all required holes In the ski fabric, a small amount of glue is added to each of them, and then the mount itself is mounted. The screws should fit tightly, without moving.
This information may be useful when thinking about how to install a binding on your skis.
Cross-country skis: installing bindings
It is these elements that make it possible to clearly transmit forces and set the direction of sliding when moving, as in classic style, and in skating. It is very important to focus on how to properly install bindings on cross-country skis, since without this knowledge, even well-chosen equipment will not only not bring absolutely no joy from skiing, but can also expose the owner to serious danger.
What tools are needed to install ski bindings?
However, this should not be considered. Your certified ski technician will check that the boots are released from the bindings. Since toe releases are performed with a twisting motion and heel releases are released with a sharp forward force, practitioners imitate these actions to ensure release of the ligaments.
You should also check your bindings. With your boots on your feet, go to the binding and click to set them. Then take to press down on your back to release yourself. If it's too easy to remove, you may need a higher setting.
One of them is the outdated Nordic Norm 75mm, called “welt” by the masses. Its main advantage is its relatively low price, but otherwise its technical characteristics leave much to be desired. It does not fix the foot well and, despite the rigid fastening of the toe of the boot, the entire sole slides due to insufficient lateral and longitudinal stability. The skating style of running in this case is practically impossible, and the classic style comes out little better. Such installation of fasteners will not bring the owner pleasure from riding, so attention should be paid to the other two types of fasteners.
Procedure for installing bindings on cross-country skis
Experienced skiers get their bindings checked every year by certified specialists. This way, if anything changes, like weight or height, the technician can make the necessary adjustments to keep you safer on the slopes. Measure twice, cut once - Carpenter's Rule.
Mounting bindings are a fairly simple operation if you are dealing with a popular binding that your local store has a fixture for. Save yourself the time and hassle and pay them for it. The only exception is if you know they don't sweat parts. In this case, you need to make sure your bindings are set correctly; Find another store or do it yourself.
These samples belong to models of a new, innovative generation. These include the SNS system and the NNN system.
It will be quite difficult to compare these two mounts as each is an extremely high performance device.
What tools are needed to install the fasteners?
Figure out where you want your foot to be on your ski. In general, the manufacturer's recommendation refers to a loading center sign that matches the corresponding loading center sign on the ski. The only option for this is usually to tie the peg forward. If you're in a terrain park and switch to ground, you can move the peg as much as 3cm forward. For use as a dedicated powder ski, moving the mounting point about 1cm is quite common.
The operation of these two systems is based on the technology of using flexors and guides, which greatly simplifies the task of how to install fasteners. On skis with such clamps, the sole of the boot fits firmly and comfortably, and the additional stabilization during classic skiing gives a feeling of confidence and greatly facilitates the process of movement.
Once you know where to mount, if at all possible, borrow a clamp to secure your binding. If not clamping device, remember that without a mounting clamp, the rules are the carpenter's rules. Errors can occur in printing due to size changes and uncontrolled shifts in the positions where the ink pixels fall. Therefore, a reasonable installer should question the accuracy of any paper clamp.
It's much easier to simply cover the ski platform with masking tape in critical areas and then mark the tape with a pencil. If you make a mistake, rip it off and start again. How do you know if it's wrong? You used Carpenter's rule and caught it when you measured again, just to be sure. Masking tape is too easy to write on to re-write the locations and perimeter of parts for alignment.
Functional features of the SNS and NNN fastening systems
The level of fixation of each of these two samples is touring, sometimes even equipped with automatic fastening. This option is perfect for amateur skiers whose skiing skills are not yet very well developed.
How to install bindings on alpine skis?
Make sure you have a center mark ski boot on your boot and ski. If you do this, line them up, then place a strip of masking tap in front of the boot to slightly behind the heel with longitudinal stripe down the center of the ski. You don't have to be perfect here, you'll draw a line later, the exact centerline.
Installing ski bindings
Then place horizontal strips of tape where the rough parts of the heel and heel are approximately the same. Now you are ready to start marking. Don't have one or the other ski boot line? With an alpine boot, simply measure the distance between the toe and heel and mark a half point. For a cart, measure from the 3-pin line to the heel, then mark half the distance forward from the heel.
The SNS system appeared a little earlier, and its main difference is that the fastening design includes only one longitudinal component, while the NNN type has two.
It's no secret that the main difference between cross-country and alpine skiing is the connection of the boots of the former with one or another type of binding. And since the differences between the two above-mentioned systems are quite insignificant, the emphasis here should be placed exclusively on the choice of shoes. Having decided how to properly install bindings on your skis, you should choose boots that will match your skiing style and have unique comfort and design, and only then figure out the standard of their fixation.
For skis, you either have to find where the center of the ski boot is based on what the manufacturers have, or use old-fashioned guesswork using the balance point or chord center and then adjusting to your whim. The balance point is what it sounds like, the point where skis suspended in one place will balance and level. The center of the chord is the center point in a straight line between the raised tip and the tail of the ski. In the days when telephoto lenses were mounted with contacts at the center of the chords, we found that 1-2 cm forward almost always gave better results.
Alpine ski bindings
This type of sports equipment is suitable, as the name suggests, only for skiing on the slopes. Such skis are not suitable for running, since they have different length and width parameters, and also differ from other models in their technical characteristics. But, one way or another, it is extremely important to know how to install bindings on skis of this type, since descents from peaks require an increased level of safety, which can only be ensured by securely fixing the entire structure on the leg.
It also tended to align, within 5mm, with the same attachment point as the center of the ski boot, as recommended by ski companies. So now you can interpret in your heart how to realize it. This is an important part of doing a good job installing any bindings. The advantage of the clamping device when correct use is that it easily finds the center line. Just make sure the clamp is flush with the top of the ski and then tighten the self-centering arms around the skis.
The center holes will now be aligned with the centerline of the ski. Don't have a jig with centered holes? Use a compass to determine the center line. From the ski boot line, on both sides, draw a line at the tip and back of the ski. Where the scribe line intersects on each side will be the center point of the ski in that position. Now connect the dots and you have a longitudinal centerline to line up the anchors.
Installation procedure for mountain ski bindings
To avoid poor-quality work results, all actions for equipment of this type must be performed strictly according to the following instructions:
1. A line is drawn at the center of gravity of the ski, which you can find with your own hands.
Use a paper clip for critical measurements, such as the distance between connected parts or the alignment of each part to the length and width of the ski. The key part of this tip is to drill straight down, perfectly perpendicular to the top sheet. The best way to insure this is with a jig. A drill press is another stellar option if you have one. Or you can understand it - if you are good and feel happy. Double check the size and thread pitch of the screws you are using.
Pressure is one of the keys to staying firmly on your skis. Tapping cuts the cylindrical surface of the hole to match the threads of the screw, which, when combined with an adhesive, maximizes retention to prevent screws from coming loose.
2. The fastener is laid so that its front edge reaches exactly the drawn mark. The boot is carefully inserted into the clamp, which is adjusted so that its entire base is located in the center, since only in this case will the installation of the bindings on the skis be correct.
3. Then the boot is removed, and at its location small holes are made through the holes in the latch, which can be made with an awl or a drill with a cross-section of 1.5-2 mm in diameter. Next, use a screwdriver or screwdriver to tighten the included screws.
It never feels well distributed, like splattered glue, but when these steps are followed, I've never had a single failure. It lubricates the screw as you tighten it so it doesn't tear the core or bind when drying, sealing out moisture. Honestly, if you want real holding power that keeps the repeating nature of the telecoat under control or just holds up when breaking down a 30-foot level landing, use epoxy. It is absolutely stronger, all other parts of the mountain are equal.
Use slow cure room temperature epoxy resin. Take those skis out of your frozen garage for the night. The guys from Voile turned me on to Gorilla Glue. It foams, but that gives it pressure to spread out and cover every square nanometer of surface area between the screw and the core of the ski.
4. The boot is tightly secured in the holes made. In this case, it is important to follow the entire algorithm of actions so that at the end of all the work the latch is moderately rigid, fits the leg comfortably and meets all the requirements of safety standards when skating.
This instruction will help you understand how to properly install bindings on skis intended for riding on mountains and steep slopes.
Today, as a rule, two competing fastening systems are used for cross-country skis of all categories - SNS(the developer is the company SALOMON) And NNN(developer - ROTTEFELLA), as well as their modifications.
Fastener installation techniques various designs on skis can vary significantly, but when installing any type of bindings, the requirements remain unchanged: to ensure control of the ski and maneuverability of movement, to ensure the reliability of the connection between the ski boot and the ski, to maintain the strength of the ski at the place where the binding is installed.
It is also necessary to take into account that the working properties of the ski depend on the position installed mount and on the quality and reliability of the installation of the ski mount.
Installing bindings on cross-country skis
Both of the above systems have wide ranges various models bindings aimed at a wide variety of user groups - from Olympic-level ski racers to children, walkers and ski tourists.
Depending on the purpose of the fasteners, they differ in weight, strength, and rigidity of fixation of the boot. But for all types of fastenings the requirements remain unchanged - ensuring:
- the necessary reliability of fixing the boot and ski,
- maneuverability and ski control,
- maintaining the strength and reliability of the ski.
Almost everything modern systems ski bindings for cross-country and touring skis provide articulation of the boot and fastening using a bracket in the sole of the boot, which is captured by the binding. For traditional types For fastenings of all systems - both Salomon SNS and Rottefella NNN, the standard is to install the fastening in such a way that the axis of fastening of the boot bracket coincides with the axis of the center of gravity of the ski.
Ski manufacturers strive to provide optimal properties skis specifically for the case of installing the mount at the center of gravity. This ensures maximum strength of the ski, optimal “work” - the ratio of the rigidity and elasticity of the ski, the best balancing and controllability of the ski. Unfortunately, when skis are produced in flow, especially when using natural materials, it is almost impossible to achieve absolute ski identity. That's why big step was the creation of the NIS system, which not only greatly simplifies the process of installing the mount on the ski, but also allows you to find the optimal position of the mount on the ski.
As a rule, modern skis in the area where the bindings are installed have a special platform that provides the necessary strength and reliability of fixing the binding on the ski. But inept actions when installing bindings can damage the internal structure of the ski, which will lead to a decrease in its strength and to unfortunate breakdowns.
To install the ski mount, it is advisable to use special tool, which ensures convenient and reliable operation.
To install the fasteners you will need:
- conductor or sample for marking holes on the ski;
- ruler,
- drill(diameter 3.6mm or 3.4mm),
- drill,
- pencil or marker for marking,
- glue,
- screwdriver
- a pair of skis and a pair of bindings.
Marking
Using a ruler, we find the center of gravity of the ski and mark it with a marker.
To mark holes, it is best to use a special “jig”, which allows you to accurately position the position of the drill.
We install a conductor that corresponds to the type of fastening - Salomon SNS or Rottefella NNN, so that the marked center of gravity on the ski and the corresponding mark - SKI BALANCE on the conductor - coincide.
If there is no such conductor, then you can use a paper template. As a rule, fasteners are equipped with the following paper template.
If there is no paper template, then you can simply attach the mount to be installed to the ski in such a way that the marking of the center of gravity on the ski and the axis of fixation of the boot bracket coincide. The holes indicated on the template are marked with a pencil or by lightly pressing an awl through the mounting holes. But this marking method has very low accuracy, so we strongly do not recommend doing this. It must be taken into account that modern fastenings have shifting parts and the marking of holes for the screws fixing the platform must be done with the mount closed and assembled, otherwise you will get a displacement of the holes by 1-2 cm.
When installing, be sure to use a template or jig that matches the type of fasteners. Please note - the picture clearly shows that for the system mounts Rottefella NNN all fastening holes are drilled ahead of the axis of the center of gravity, and on the system fastenings Salomon SNS- the axis of the center of gravity passes under the mount.
Drilling holes
To drill holes, it is advisable to use a drill with variable speed control and special drills that provide the required diameter and depth of the hole.
When using specialized equipment:
the special drill has an extension that will ensure centering of the drill in the hole of the jig and stopping the drill at the required depth. Drilling is done with light pressure at medium speed.
When drilling with standard drills, a drill bit is used to install Rottefella fasteners 3.4mm, for installing Salomon fasteners drill 3.6mm. Drilling depth - 10mm.
Installing the mount
Before installing the fasteners, the holes must be filled with glue to install the fasteners; the glue fills the cracks left after screwing in the screw and provides waterproofing and additional strength. If the hole is not waterproofed, then when using skis, water will penetrate into the cavity of the ski and lead to rotting of the internal structures of the ski and breakage, this is especially typical for skis with a honeycomb structure and made using natural materials.
IN service centers special branded adhesives from Salomon and Rottefella are used. It is possible to use PVA glue; it provides the necessary tightness and additional strength.
Usage epoxy resins It is highly undesirable, because Resin solvents can damage ski components, especially skis with foam cores.
The mount is screwed onto the ski with full fixation; backlash is completely unacceptable.
After installation, you need to let the glue dry for 10-12 hours.
Installing bindings on a ski with a pre-installed NIS platform
The use of Rottefella NIS system bindings greatly simplifies the process of installing the bindings, and also allows you to adjust the position of the binding on the ski relative to the center of gravity.
To use NIS bindings you need special skis with an appropriate platform. Today skis are produced by Madshus and Rossignol.
To install the mount on the ski, the mount is inserted along the guides until it “clicks.”
A thrust bearing is also installed along the guides. The thrust bearing is fixed in the desired position using a special key, which is included with each pair of fasteners.
For cheaper mount models, installation of the thrust bearing does not require special tools.
The NIS system allows you to find the optimal mounting position on the ski for each pair of skis, taking into account current state tracks and weather conditions. Adjustment of the position of the mount can be done before each workout or even during training. The adjustment is carried out with the same special key - the mount is shifted by a specified number of “clicks” and fixed in the new position.
The speed and ease of installation of fasteners in this way increases new level. In addition, you can change the bindings without any damage to the skis.
Sports Line stores employ specialists who, using special equipment, will help you quickly and efficiently install fastenings. When purchasing skis and bindings in our stores, installation of bindings is free.
So, the autumn preparatory cycle is completed, it’s pouring rain outside, and I decided to sit down to update the blog. Finally! :)
Let's talk now about installing fasteners, now NNN systems to Svenory. In conclusion, I will describe my impressions of the Svenors during the season.
First, install the fasteners. Roller skis are still the same http://www.skiwax.ru/catalog/index.php?SECTION_ID=699&ELEMENT_ID=10547
Rotefella fastenings of the NNN system. Installation is extremely simple: arm yourself with a drill, screwdriver, epoxy, marker, ruler and patience;) It is better to take a special drill, if not, then its diameter should be 3.6mm, hole depth 14mm.
Regarding these mounts, I would like to say that they are much easier to install than Pilots and SNS System Profiles. No shifting, adjusting, fiddling, just placed on the platform, marked with a marker, drilled and installed.
1. In the previous post, I wrote that for NNN fastenings you will need a ruler, to measure according to the size of boots, etc... So, none of this is required :) We proceed from this position: the maximum extended fastening to the most big size the boot will be close to the metal “fork” on the roller skates, this is confirmed by the comparison of Pilots and Rotafella.
Now we simply move the back part of the mount to right size(in our case, this is 42)and mark the locations for the holes with a marker. If you don't have a marker, take a screw and a screwdriver and scratch with the screw :)
3. Blow off the dust, dilute the epoxy and pour it into the drilled holes.
4. Screw in the fasteners as soon as possible. Then we put on the wings and this is what we get at the output.
Don't forget to pour epoxy into the holes for the wings
5. We install the second mount and admire it.
6. We wait a day for the epoxy to harden and start training!)))
And now impressions of the work of the skaters.
During the time since writing the previous post, my opinion has not changed, excellent rollers, excellent performance, as close as possible to skis in feel. The platform eats up all the unevenness of the track. For knees - The best decision, especially for bad/old tracks.
Let's not forget that we had wheels No. 3, slow.
What kind of work did we do this preparatory season at Svenory:
a) power on any terrain
b) long lasting on any terrain
c) short speed-strength exercises (up to 10 seconds) on any terrain.
d) power work, including according to Samokhin, on light terrain.
They didn’t carry out the high-speed ones, as I wrote in the previous review; for high-speed ones, wheels No. 2 are still needed.
Impressions: I think that these roller skis gave us a lot in terms of strength. Significantly increased strength endurance. The technique has improved, which became noticeable when I switched to Start roller skates in the fall: the ride became longer and I became more confident on my feet. The ankle has become stronger and the sense of balance has improved. By the fall, the ankle stopped turning outward when stepping on the leg. outside, even in our broken-down boots - we got used to it.
Without a doubt, technical training contributed to everything, but at the same time, the merit of training on the Svenors also lies in this. The wheel is narrower than that of the Starts, larger in diameter, and therefore less stable. You get up to the Starts and they seem super stable.
Training on water and wet asphalt did not reveal any problems. I lubricated it after training in the rain, did not thoroughly disassemble the roller, only removed the wheels, tried to force the oil into the bearing with a syringe and a needle, and it seemed to work.
Training in cold weather is also possible, the sensations hardly change, a little slower on the first lap, then they warm up more or less. By the way, at the Starts the difference in warm and cold training is more significant.
In terms of the quality of components.
During training on the Seminsky Pass on bad asphalt, we significantly reduced the tires, especially Max, due to the fact that he weighs more. In addition, they let the kids from the section ride, and they used the roller skates to the maximum. I estimate that by switching the wheels (front to rear), they will last another season and a half.
The platform is alive and well, although something creaks when I push it in one of the rollers, but I don’t see any external damage and there’s no feeling that something is broken there, I believe it’s the fastening.
I read that the problem with the Svenors was the metal “fork” that attaches the wheel to the platform. Hmm... It's hard to imagine that something could happen to her.
To summarize, I will say that the impressions from the skaters are only positive. When compared with Starts, the advantage of Swenor is obvious. If with Marvs, then whoever you like. The feeling on the skate is close. Marve's wheels wear down a little faster, as it seemed to me, the composition of the rubber is slightly different, and on Marve's there is less of it.
I recommend, as before, to buy roller skates with wheels No. 2.
Roller skis are roller skis. By analogy with roller skates, they are intended for skating on asphalt, for summer training of skiers, and for competitions. Among fans of roller skiing there are both beginner amateurs and professional athletes.
Marking
A pair of roller skis consists of two platforms with rollers attached to them. The rollers themselves are equipped with mudguards. New roller ski bindings often come separately and can be classic or skate. Self-installation of fasteners begins with markings. Attach the ski binding assembly to the platform so that the widest part of the binding sole is aligned with the middle of the roller platform. If you are attaching classic bindings for classic running, butt the fastenings to the rear mudguard. After this, mark the location for screwing in the front mounting screw.Some models of roller skis are sold already marked for installation of bindings. Typically they contain two sets of screw marks. The first is for large size shoes (more than 40), the second is for small shoes (size less than 40). It is better to install fasteners using a special template to ensure maximum accuracy.
Fastening
Before screwing in the screws, pre-drill holes for them. For drilling, use a drill with adjustable speed and drill bits that provide the desired diameter and depth of the hole. If you have access to specialized equipment, use a special drill with an extension. It ensures that the drill is centered in the drill and stops at the required depth. When using a standard drill, use drills with a diameter of 3.4-3.6 mm. If drilling occurs with the help of a brace, the use of a jig is mandatory: without it, the drill often moves to the side.For fastening, use the self-tapping screws included with the fasteners. Although they are difficult to twist, they hold securely and firmly. Before screwing in, the screws can be moistened with machine oil to reduce the force applied to the screwdriver. Unlike skis, drilling holes in rollerblades must be done with the utmost care. While an erroneous hole in skis can be sealed with a plug, this cannot be done on roller skates. To drive screws, you can use screwdrivers with PH 3 or PZ 3 bits.
Many athletes use an alternative method of screwing in fasteners using M4x25 countersunk head screws. The screwing points are marked with a stencil, the lower part is drilled out for steel hollow T-shaped pistons. The pistons are inserted from below and countersunk screws are screwed into them. Unlike self-tapping screws, although this method is more labor-intensive, it is much more accurate and reliable when using rollers intensively. This option is also ideal for those who have already unsuccessfully drilled holes for self-tapping screws.
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When purchasing new skis, you have to deal with installing bindings on them. In stores, of course, they offer to install bindings on purchased skis, but this is associated with additional costs. Installing the fastenings yourself is not that difficult...
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So, the autumn preparatory cycle is completed, it’s pouring rain outside, and I decided to sit down to update the blog. Finally! :)
Let's talk now about installing fasteners, now the NNN system on Svenors. In conclusion, I will describe my impressions of the Svenors during the season.
First, install the fasteners. Roller skis are still the same http://www.skiwax.ru/catalog/index.php?SECTION_ID=699&ELEMENT_ID=10547
Rotefella fastenings of the NNN system. Installation is extremely simple: arm yourself with a drill, screwdriver, epoxy, marker, ruler and patience;) It is better to take a special drill, if not, then its diameter should be 3.6mm, hole depth 14mm.
Regarding these mounts, I would like to say that they are much easier to install than Pilots and SNS System Profiles. No shifting, adjusting, fiddling, just placed on the platform, marked with a marker, drilled and installed.
1. In the previous post, I wrote that for NNN fastenings you will need a ruler, to measure according to the size of the boots, etc... So, none of this is required :) We proceed from this situation: the maximum extended fastening for the largest boot size will be in the emphasis is on the metal “fork” on the roller skates, this confirms the comparison between the Pilots and Rotafella.
Now we simply move the back part of the mount to the desired size (in our case, it is 42)and mark the locations for the holes with a marker. If you don't have a marker, take a screw and a screwdriver and scratch with the screw :)
3. Blow off the dust, dilute the epoxy and pour it into the drilled holes.
4. Screw in the fasteners as soon as possible. Then we put on the wings and this is what we get at the output.
Don't forget to pour epoxy into the holes for the wings
5. We install the second mount and admire it.
6. We wait a day for the epoxy to harden and start training!)))
And now impressions of the work of the skaters.
During the time since writing the previous post, my opinion has not changed, excellent rollers, excellent performance, as close as possible to skis in feel. The platform eats up all the unevenness of the track. For knees - the best solution, especially for bad/old tracks.
Let's not forget that we had wheels No. 3, slow.
What kind of work did we do this preparatory season at Svenory:
a) power on any terrain
b) long lasting on any terrain
c) short speed-strength exercises (up to 10 seconds) on any terrain.
d) power work, including according to Samokhin, on light terrain.
They didn’t carry out the high-speed ones, as I wrote in the previous review; for high-speed ones, wheels No. 2 are still needed.
Impressions: I think that these roller skis gave us a lot in terms of strength. Significantly increased strength endurance. The technique has improved, which became noticeable when I switched to Start roller skates in the fall: the ride became longer and I became more confident on my feet. The ankle has become stronger and the sense of balance has improved. By the fall, the ankle stopped turning to the outer side when stepping out, even in our broken-down boots - we got used to it.
Without a doubt, technical training contributed to everything, but at the same time, the merit of training on the Svenors also lies in this. The wheel is narrower than that of the Starts, larger in diameter, and therefore less stable. You get up to the Starts and they seem super stable.
Training on water and wet asphalt did not reveal any problems. I lubricated it after training in the rain, did not thoroughly disassemble the roller, only removed the wheels, tried to force the oil into the bearing with a syringe and a needle, and it seemed to work.
Training in cold weather is also possible, the sensations hardly change, a little slower on the first lap, then they warm up more or less. By the way, at the Starts the difference in warm and cold training is more significant.
In terms of the quality of components.
During training on the Seminsky Pass on bad asphalt, we significantly reduced the tires, especially Max, due to the fact that he weighs more. In addition, they let the kids from the section ride, and they used the roller skates to the maximum. I estimate that by switching the wheels (front to rear), they will last another season and a half.
The platform is alive and well, although something creaks when I push it in one of the rollers, but I don’t see any external damage and there’s no feeling that something is broken there, I believe it’s the fastening.
I read that the problem with the Svenors was the metal “fork” that attaches the wheel to the platform. Hmm... It's hard to imagine that something could happen to her.
To summarize, I will say that the impressions from the skaters are only positive. When compared with Starts, the advantage of Swenor is obvious. If with Marvs, then whoever you like. The feeling on the skate is close. Marve's wheels wear down a little faster, as it seemed to me, the composition of the rubber is slightly different, and on Marve's there is less of it.
I recommend, as before, to buy roller skates with wheels No. 2.