A socket box is a plastic cup into which a socket or switch is mounted. Installing a socket box is a fairly easy process, the technology of which depends on the material from which the walls are made. Learn about methods for installing a socket box with your own hands and get valuable advice from experts with a brief description of each of them.

DIY installation of socket boxes in a brick wall

The main rule for high-quality installation of a socket box in a brick wall is a responsible and careful approach to this process. Installation of socket boxes is carried out in several stages:

before installing the wires - in this case, first the crowns are made, the socket box is installed, and then the cable is connected to them;
most often, socket boxes are installed after laying wires and determining the location of switches and sockets;
installing a socket box after completing the rough work - first, the cables are laid out in the room, then leveling plaster is applied, and only after it has dried, the socket boxes are installed.

the presence of a flat plane that only needs finishing, so the socket box will not be recessed into the wall; when installing the socket box before finishing with plaster, there will be difficulties in finding it;
The appearance of the socket box improves, it does not get dirty with the solution.

Work on the installation of electrical outlets should begin with the preparation of materials and tools, such as:

crown for a socket for brick walls, with a diameter of 65 to 85 mm, for ease of installation of the socket, choose a socket with a slightly larger diameter, because cables and additional parts are also installed inside;
construction or laser level - allow you to install several socket boxes in a strictly horizontal position;
use a tape measure or ruler as a measuring tool, you will also need a pencil to mark the installation locations of the socket boxes;
stock up on socket boxes of previously determined sizes;
A gypsum compound will help fix the socket boxes; to apply it, prepare a spatula, and to mix the compound, prepare a container and water.

Instructions for installing socket boxes in a brick wall with your own hands:

1. Make a drawing of the preliminary location of socket boxes in the room. According to the data received, make markings on the wall.

2. Prepare a hammer drill with a special nozzle with a diameter of 0.6 cm. Mark the drilling location and begin the process. The crown should be centered on the brick, thus simplifying the work process.

3. Do not press on the hammer drill, work in hammer mode in combination with drilling. Remove the central part from the prepared hole. If there are several socket boxes in the same plane, remove the jumpers between them.

4. To remove dust, use a regular or construction vacuum cleaner. After this, treat the hole with primer. After the primer has completely dried, continue working.

5. The socket boxes are installed freely inside the hole. After this, fill the hole with the previously prepared gypsum-based compound, spreading it evenly over the wall. Install the socket box, press it into the hole, remove excess mixture with a spatula. Level the device in relation to the level, check the quality of installation after an hour.

Installation of socket boxes in a brick wall, the price is determined by the amount of work, the type of socket box and the complexity of the work.

Technology for installing socket boxes on concrete

There are two types of socket boxes:

old;
new generation.

The first ones are made of metal, are distinguished by the presence of steel stops, are not securely fixed to the wall and easily fall out of it. It is recommended to use for installing sockets in wooden buildings. In other cases, install new plastic socket boxes - they are held well in the wall due to the mortar used to fix them.

In the process of installing a wall socket, you will need a hammer drill, which has a special crown, as well as Pobedit drills and teeth. The diameter of a standard plastic socket box is 6.8 cm. Make a hole with a slightly larger diameter so that the socket box can easily fit into it.

Please note that plastic socket boxes are used for installation only in concrete or brick walls. If you need to replace an old outlet with a new one, first turn off the power to the room and remove the old outlet.

A screwdriver is used for these purposes. Remove the cover and disconnect the screws on the wires. Remove the old socket, remove the old base that is held in place by dowels.

This is the case if the old outlet was external. Install the crown into the hammer drill and drill a hole for the socket box. Its depth should not exceed five centimeters. Vacuum away the concrete and debris, and use a hammer and chisel to reshape the hole. Build an entrance for the power wires and connect them to the electrical outlet. Build a plug on the side where the wire is installed.

Fill a spray bottle with hot water and wet the hole. Combine plaster and putty, mix the solution, apply it inside the hole. Level and fix the socket box in relation to the level, additionally fix it with a solution. Wait until it dries completely and only then install the socket. Installing socket boxes in a concrete wall is a fairly easy process, for which it is enough to study all the technological aspects associated with the correct drilling of a hole in the wall.

We install a socket box on drywall - the cost of installing a socket box in a block

Special socket boxes are installed on plasterboard walls. The principle of fixation of this device is based on special paws installed on the side or rear. The front part of the part is distinguished by the presence of four screws, twice as many as in concrete.

Two outer screws secure the appliance and socket or switch. The remaining screws are slightly recessed into the mechanism; they perform the function of fixing the frame. The screws are responsible for the tabs on the socket box; when they rotate, they fix the device in the desired position.

By turning the screw with a screwdriver, the foot begins to move and secure the socket box to the wall. The back of the device is distinguished by the presence of special holes and blanks for wires. Cut one of them and install the cable. Try to make sure that the wire goes into the socket from the back. Thus, the process of installing sockets or switches is greatly simplified. Use a utility knife to cut the hole.

Instructions for installing a socket box on a plasterboard wall:

1. Prepare a tape measure and take measurements at the location of the outlet.

2. As you perform these activities, be guided by the following standards:

the socket must be at least 300 mm from the floor;
if there is a washing machine in the bathroom, install the socket 100 cm from it;
The distance between the floor and the socket in the kitchen should be at least 120 cm.

3. Create a hole in the drywall. There are different ways for these purposes:

use a stationery knife, with its help a hole is cut along a pre-drawn diameter;
drill a hole with a drill and then cut with a knife;
A crown for spotlights is an ideal option, with the help of which a high-quality hole with smooth edges is obtained.

The crown is mounted on a screwdriver or electric drill.

There are situations when a hole in the wall is already ready and a previously removed wire sticks out of it. In this case, first a hole is cut out in the socket box for the wire, and then fixed on the wall.

One pair of screws secures the socket box to the wall, and the second pair adjusts the claws that also hold this device. When the socket retracts a little into the hole, loosen the screws a little and check the quality of fixation. Next comes the process of installing switches and sockets.

Features of installing sockets in socket boxes

The aluminum wire that comes out of the socket box is connected to the outlet. However, if its length is insufficient, an intermediate terminal block is installed, which performs the function of a conductor. choose black wires that have contact paste. They combine well with aluminum and copper elements.

A single-core rigid copper wire must have a current reserve and high strength. The terminals are placed on the bottom of the socket box. The length of copper wires should not exceed 1.5 cm.

Connect the terminals to the wires and secure the socket. Check the evenness of the socket fixation using a level. To install self-tapping screws, you will need a screwdriver. Be sure to turn off the power to the room before performing work.

Please note that sockets are installed after finishing.

Installation of socket boxes before plaster

Installation of any socket box begins with the construction of a hole. To fix the device in the wall, use a solution based on alabaster or gypsum. There are three ways to create holes for the socket box:

1. Using a crown with a diameter of 7 cm. This part is characterized by the presence of teeth that easily pass through the wall. The crown is mounted on a drill or hammer drill. To avoid damaging the outlet, take the wire from it to the side and turn off the power to the room in which you are working. Push the crown completely into the wall. To drill the central hole, use Pobedit-based drills. To adjust the size of the hole and make it more accurate, use a chisel.

2. The second method involves using an impact drill or hammer drill. In this case, the socket box is installed on the wall and its contours are outlined. Using a Pobedit drill, drilling is performed along the contour of the socket box. Using a chisel and hammer, remove the inner filling of the hole.

3. Creating a hole with a grinder - this method is relevant if you have neither a drill nor a hammer drill in your house. Using a grinder, a hole is cut in the concrete along the previously outlined contour. Pay special attention to the areas where the wire is located. The depth of the circle should be less than the diameter of the socket box; bring it to the desired size with a chisel.

The next stage just involves adjusting the hole for the socket box. The socket box should fit freely into the hole. A gypsum solution will be installed in the inside of the socket box to perform a fixation function.

Prepare a gypsum-based solution; for this you will need:

gypsum of two types - construction and medical;
alabaster with water.

Place the plaster in a container, gradually stirring it and add water. Prepare the solution in small portions, as its shelf life does not exceed 7 minutes. Fix the socket box with this solution. Apply the solution into the hole, install the socket box and check its evenness with a level. Please note that the screws must be horizontal to the floor.

After the solution has set, continue working. Place plaster in the side parts that are not filled with mortar. Coat it around the socket. After the solution has dried, remove excess.

To connect two socket boxes together, use a butterfly. This is an additional connection element. With its help, several socket boxes are fixed. Double and triple socket boxes are installed in the same way as single ones. The main requirement is the evenness and horizontal position of the screws.

Installation of a socket box video:

It is very possible that you already do not have enough sockets in your apartment and want to add a few, especially if renovations are underway. How and with what to drill a niche for socket boxes? Do I need to buy an expensive crown or make do with hammer drills? You will learn about this further in this article.

Crowns for socket boxes

For cutting holes or niches for socket boxes in a brick wall, an inexpensive crown is the best option. Brick is a very soft material compared to concrete or titanium.
It is unlikely that you will need to install sockets in a titanium wall. It is unlikely that you have a titanium wall in your apartment. But concrete is quite likely. To drill holes for socket boxes in concrete, you will need a very good crown and a good hammer drill, at least with an active anti-bite system. Otherwise, if you have an inexpensive but powerful Chinese hammer drill, you risk dislocating your wrist. This is possible if the crown gets stuck in the concrete. And the power of the rotary hammer is 950-1200 W. will provide you with a visit to a traumatologist. A hammer drill of less power simply will not cope with the task.

You can, of course, buy a thousand crown for 5-6 rubles. And a hammer drill, over thirty thousand. Drill a couple of holes, break its teeth and curse the hour when you decided to make these purchases. But if you need to install just 10-12 socket boxes, it’s easier and cheaper to use a regular hammer drill and a chisel for it. And there is no need to buy an expensive hammer drill, which we are amazed by in videos on You Tube.

First, let's examine it for installation in concrete or brick. They have no significant differences. In principle, for a single socket or switch, you can purchase absolutely any socket box. If you need to install several sockets in a row, then it is better to buy models that connect into an infinite number of sockets. You can also find ready-made “double”, “triple” and “quadruple” socket boxes on sale. Their design is more rigid than those connected in a chain. They are easier to install in the wall due to their rigidity in maintaining plane, but they also cost several times more. In general, the choice is yours. I will show you using cheap socket boxes as an example.

Marking of socket boxes

So, you want to move a switch, an outlet, or move an outlet and increase the number of them.

First, of course, you should decide how many sockets or, as they also say, “places” will be located in one place or another. The basic principle here is: “You can’t have too many sockets!” Let me remind you that both power sockets (220 V) and low-current sockets, that is, telephone, television and Internet, can be combined into one line. It is better to place low-current sockets on the edge of power outlets. This makes it more convenient and correct to stretch the wire. The distance between the power and low-current wires should be at least some (just kidding). In general, these cables should not be laid side by side to avoid exposure to electromagnetic fields. In the best case, an antenna, telephone or Internet wire should be in a shielded sheath. And the closest distance between them will be two sockets, to which they approach from different sides. Then, guaranteed, your Internet will be free from troubles in the form of electromagnetic waves. I will add that 15 cm between the shielded low-current cable and the 220 V power cable is a sufficient distance for normal operation of the TV and the Internet. Tested by experience. Those who are not satisfied with my statements can turn to specialized literature.
So, you have decided how many outlets you will have in this area of the wall. I don't recommend more than five. You simply won't find a strip that combines six sockets. I was not lucky enough to meet one like this on this planet. But maybe you'll get lucky.

Next you need to choose a place to locate these outlets. Here the most correct thing would be not to adhere to some mythical rules and norms, but to do what is most convenient for you. To make it convenient to turn on the plug and pull it out if necessary. So as not to look for sockets under the table, bed or behind the closet. But you shouldn’t install it in the most visible place, like a painting. I am sure that you are able to solve this problem yourself. That's not what the article is about.
Draw a strictly horizontal line along the level. Place the front side of your socket boxes against the wall, centering along the line, and outline them with a pencil. Stand back and admire. Here there will be socket boxes first, and then the sockets themselves.

Hollowing out a niche for socket boxes

Load a 6-8 mm drill bit into the hammer drill. and drill, slightly beyond the contour marks of the socket boxes, holes 6 cm deep.

It is better to immediately drill 5-8 mm wider than the mark. When gouging, the chisel will tend to the center, forming a cone-shaped niche. It will be difficult to get the edges inside the niche. Make the niche a little wider.

Everything that will be inside the contour must be hollowed out using a chisel, replacing the drill in the hammer drill with it. To make gouging easier, drill additional holes in the center of the marked outline of the socket boxes, thereby weakening the concrete. The whole point of this action is to rarefy and weaken the bonds of concrete molecules, if only it consists of molecules. Here, the more holes, the easier and faster the process of choosing a breed will be. Feel like a miner!

If you come across reinforcement, cutting it out with a grinder will not be difficult. When you decide that you have worked hard enough, insert the socket boxes into the niche, check their location horizontally and along the plane of the wall. They should be recessed into the wall with a small margin for the plaster solution to which they will be fixed.
A small digression. If you are going to plaster a wall, leveling it flat and vertical, then the plane of the socket boxes should be leveled according to the applied layer of plaster. And if the layer is supposed to be large, then less depth will have to be hollowed out.
I prefer to hollow out a niche for the socket boxes before applying the plaster. I don’t want to spoil an already smooth wall with such lethal effects. Pieces of concrete come off unevenly and are torn out along with the plaster. This is unpleasantly damaging to my eyes and nerves.
I do this. First I hollow it out, then I plaster it. After which I “freeze” the socket boxes, leveling them along the plane of the plastered wall. If leveling with a plaster layer is not required, then I level it along the existing plane, as in this example.

Chasing walls for wiring

Now I need groove for the wire. Draw horizontal and vertical lines from the recess you created to the place where you intend to connect the new wire. In this case, it’s an old outlet that we decided to get rid of. According to the rules, you should not make the groove diagonally. This makes it easier to remember the location of the wire hidden under a layer of putty or plaster. If you believe Pythagoras, then the diagonal is much shorter, and if you do not intend to subsequently drill the wall in this place, then do as your reason tells you. Just in case, the grooves with wires can be photographed, adding distances from the corner and from the floor level to the photo.
Strobe concrete You can also drill holes 10 mm deep. and the same diameter according to the groove marking, that is, apply perforation with a puncher. After that, with the same drill, drill through all the partitions between the holes, making a continuous groove. It’s easier, of course, to use a wall chaser, but it’s unlikely you have one.
Having cut under the wire, do not forget to drill holes in the groove with a diameter of 6 mm. under the dowel there is a clamp securing the wire. After which, it is necessary to sweep out all the dust from the niche and grooves and prime them. After the primer has dried, you can begin attaching the wire.

Fastening the wire for socket boxes in the groove

It is convenient to secure the wire in the groove using dowel clamps. At the points where the wire enters the socket box, use a knife to remove the outer insulation that combines the wires into the cable so that the insulated wires enter the socket box separately. So, later, it will be easier to install the sockets themselves, and in the present - to fix the socket boxes. For ease of installation of the sockets themselves, leave the wire with a reserve, then you can cut it. It will be worse if you do not have enough wire. At the entrance to the socket box, make the groove a little deeper so that the wire does not squeeze the socket box out of the fresh solution. Each socket box has places for wires to enter. Make sure in advance that the groove fits exactly this place. Of course, you should break out the holes in the socket boxes for the wire to enter. They are visually easily distinguishable, it is impossible to make a mistake, unless you are crazy. But, in this case, you are unlikely to take up this matter. Crazy people don't install electrical outlets, and it fills our hearts with compassion for them.

How to secure socket boxes

Fasten, or as they also say “ freeze” to the place of her further and lifelong stay, using any solution. The easiest way to do this is with gypsum plaster. In most cases, I use the same one I use to plaster walls. “Rotband” - that’s what it’s called. Do not use stucco (alabaster). It will set faster than you can set it to the desired position. Prepare the solution. The more gaps you need to fill between the edges of the socket box, the thicker and tougher the solution is needed. It is easier to fix one socket box than several in an assembly. It is easier to align it with the plane of the wall and horizontally. Before final installation, check whether the socket boxes fit easily into the niche and whether the wire does not interfere with their correct position. If necessary, you can use a grinder or metal scissors to slightly enlarge the holes for the wires to enter.

Thoroughly coat the inner walls of the niche with the solution and fill the niche 2/3 full with plaster. After that, press your socket boxes into the solution, squeezing the excess out. As soon as you achieve a clear position, level the solution along the plane of the wall and let it harden. In the meantime, you can fill the groove with the wire with a solution.

So let's start from the beginning:

After all the holes in the concrete for the socket boxes are ready, and all the necessary grooves for them are made, the electrical wiring is done, i.e. feeds power wires to sockets. The ideal option is for each outlet to have its own electrical cable.

4. Installation of socket boxes

I will describe this stage in particular detail because not only the reliability, durability and ease of installation of the outlet, but also your safety depends on the quality of installation of the socket box in a concrete wall.

In order to reliably fix the socket box in a concrete wall, it is necessary to perform a series of actions sequentially. First of all the holes must be cleared of dust and primed using a specialized primer. This guarantees the reliability and durability of the installation of the socket box.

Next, after the primer has dried, dilute a plaster or putty mixture on a gypsum base and apply it inside the holes in the concrete, as shown in the image below. You can also use simple alabaster, the main thing is to work quickly, since pure gypsum has a short setting time. In cases where a small number of socket boxes are installed, this is even an advantage.

Then, “press” the socket boxes with the wires already inserted into them into the solution. It is important to install them strictly horizontally; for this it is convenient to focus on the marks of the horizontal axis that we applied when marking. Also make sure that the installation boxes do not protrude and are installed flush with the wall. It should look something like the image below. At the same time, it is more convenient to remove the gypsum mixture that has got inside the socket boxes after it has hardened and at this stage it is better not to touch it.

5. Wall decoration

When the mixture “sets” and the socket boxes are securely fixed. You can move on to finishing work. If you immediately cover the grooves, holes, etc. with plaster mortar. around the installation boxes, you can knock down their previously established exact position, so I advise you to first wait until the socket boxes are fixed.

Here we will briefly go through the main, most frequently performed, stages of wall finishing after installing sockets in a concrete wall.

First of all they primed, and then large gaps, chips, holes are covered and leveled with plaster, and the socket boxes are also coated more thoroughly.

After the wall has dried putty, then sanded until a smooth surface is formed concrete wall around installed socket boxes.

Finally, after the last coat of primer, you can move on to finishing. In our case there were photo wallpapers are pasted.

6. Installation of sockets

When all finishing work is completed, you can proceed to the direct installation of the built-in socket mechanisms.

Be sure to make sure there is no voltage at the installation location. It is better to turn off the supply of electric current in the metering and distribution board by turning off the corresponding circuit breakers.

Depending on the type of sockets selected, screw there or spring terminals, the corresponding connection is made. We have already considered both of these options for connecting sockets in some detail in our articles. You can get acquainted with them by following the links, the materials will open in a new window.

In our case, as an example, install ABB Busch Jaeger basic 55 series sockets in a concrete wall with spring terminals.

For this, first of all, preparing the wires. Remove the outer protective braiding of the power cable.

We strip the ends of the wire cores by about 10-12mm and set them up as shown in the image below.

All that remains is to install the frame and front panels of the sockets, after which the installation of sockets in the concrete wall is completed. Now you can turn on the power supply and check their functionality.

This instruction is fully suitable for simply transferring several sockets to a concrete wall, for example on a kitchen apron or in a room, and for installing electrical equipment during a complete overhaul of an apartment, with the replacement of all wiring.

If you still have questions about how to install a socket in a concrete wall or you encounter a difficulty not described in this article, be sure to leave your questions and opinions in the comments, we will answer everyone!

The correct technology for installing socket boxes is in most cases the same, with the exception of some nuances inherent in their installation in walls made of different materials. If you do not take into account the need for experience when carrying out electrical work in general, installing electrical outlets with your own hands can be done by anyone with minimal skills in using a drill.

Required tools and materials

When large-scale electrical wiring work is being carried out, all the necessary tools will most likely already be at hand, but if the only thing on the agenda is the installation of socket boxes, then you will need the following:

Pencil and level - for marking the wall and leveling the socket block (if one needs to be installed).
Drill with bits for drilling socket boxes. If there are no crowns, then just a drill for concrete (or wood, in that rare case when hidden wiring is installed in a wooden wall). A hammer drill or its mode on a drill can also be useful.
A spray bottle (you can make it homemade) for watering the crown while drilling. Prevents the appearance of dust and prevents cracking of tiles if the socket box is mounted on a kitchen apron.
Alabaster, gypsum or cement mortar - to secure the socket box in the wall.
A trowel or spatula with which the alabaster will be applied. Its size should allow the mixture to be placed inside the hole for the socket box.
Socket boxes of the required design - selected depending on the wall material.
Dowels are needed in rare cases, if the wall material is soft and installing socket boxes without additional fasteners is problematic.

A detailed overview of the tools required for installation of socket boxes in this video:

The rest does not apply to the work itself, but a broom, cleaning rags and, possibly, a vacuum cleaner will also come in handy.

Types of socket boxes

Before you make the necessary purchases to begin installation, it would be useful to understand what types of socket boxes there are and how to choose them correctly.

There are three main types of them - for installation in concrete or brick, plasterboard or wood. Each of them meets certain safety rules and ensures proper ease of installation.

Installation in a concrete wall

It is most often necessary to install socket boxes in concrete or a brick wall, so the method of such installation has been worked out to the smallest detail and all possible methods have been tried for a long time:

Now all that remains is to wait until the solution has completely hardened and the installation of a standard socket box in a concrete wall is complete.

If for some reason it seems that the socket box will not stay inside the wall, then it can additionally be secured with dowels, under which 4 holes are drilled with a slope of 45° (at odds) to the plane of the floor and wall.

Brick wall, socket boxes, plaster and tiles

The sequence of actions when installing socket boxes in a regular brick wall is somewhat different from working on pure concrete. All the techniques, tools and materials used here are the same, but there are some nuances that need to be considered in advance.

The socket box must be installed flush to the outside of the wall. If wallpaper is glued to concrete, then a layer of plaster will be laid on the brick wall. Of course, you can estimate in advance what the thickness of the plaster will be and move the socket box a little forward, but this will be an order of magnitude more hassle than with a simple installation. When planning sockets in the bathroom or kitchen, where additional tiles will be laid, the calculations become even more complicated.

A long and complex way to solve the problem lies in careful measurements after each stage of work - a place is marked, wiring is connected to it, plaster is applied, a hole is cut in it, then the same is done with the tiles during its installation.

It will be much easier to make an initial recess in the wall where you can hide the wire (it is advisable to twist it tightly and secure it in the center). Then close the hole with a lid - you can even cut it out of thick cardboard, remember the “coordinates” of the future outlet and now you can putty. If you are laying tiles and you need to maintain symmetry, then it would be useful to figure out in advance what kind of pattern it will be laid in this place.

This video shows how to install socket boxes on gypsum plaster:

When the plaster or tile adhesive has hardened, the installation of the socket box itself begins - one or for a block of sockets. A hole is drilled according to the required coordinates, carefully so as not to catch the wire (if it is a tile, then at the time of drilling you need to continuously water the crown or drill). Next, the standard installation of the selected socket boxes is carried out - putty is applied, the box itself is recessed into it, the excess solution is cleaned off and after it hardens, everything is ready for installation of the socket.

Installation in a plasterboard wall

This is a modern material that requires the use of appropriate tools and components. Here you won’t need a hammer drill and mortar - the whole process goes much faster, but for installation in drywall you need a special socket - with additional paws that will press it to the plasterboard sheet.

Although a hammer drill is not useful here, you definitely need a drill - with a crown for drilling socket boxes or a regular drill. The drilling location is marked and a hole is cut, and its diameter should match the dimensions of the socket box. The wire is brought out and threaded into the socket box.

If there are fears that the drywall is weak and in the future the socket may simply break out of it, then plywood or other dense, non-crumbling material is glued from the inside to the place where the socket's legs will rest.

For more information about installing socket boxes in drywall, watch this video:

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

This is a very expensive pleasure. Although a hammer drill is not needed here, the labor costs are many times greater, because according to the requirements of the PUE, the entire installed wire should not come into contact with the tree anywhere and under no circumstances.

Wiring in steel corrugation, metal socket boxes

Conventional types of socket boxes are not suitable here - PVC burns well and in the event of a short circuit, the likelihood of a fire when using them is very high. There is no question here which socket boxes will be better or worse - you can only install iron ones, the thickness of the walls of which can keep the arc that occurs inside the case from a short circuit.

For the same reason, the wires in such wiring must be laid in an iron pipe and all its joints with the socket box must be carefully sealed. The entire line must be grounded, so a mounting bolt for the grounding wire is additionally welded to the ends of the pipes that meet in the socket box.

Based on this, there is only one way to install a socket box without turning it into a time bomb - to fulfill all the requirements of the PUE:

For the socket box, the required hole is drilled with a drill and chisel
If you want to provide additional protection, the bottom of the hole is lined with asbestos.
A wire and part of the pipe supplying it are inserted into the socket box, which is connected to the housing, which in turn is screwed to the wall with screws.

This seemingly simple sequence of actions must be carried out with all possible care, because the fire safety of the house depends on it.

This video shows the installation of socket boxes in a log wall:

Nuances of choice

In general, when choosing a socket box, it is necessary that the person selecting them knows where they will be used - if you purchased your own socket box for the required material, then the question of how to secure this device should not arise.

Another thing is their basic check; it is especially good to check those that will be fixed in drywall, since there are moving parts there. Even those that will be planted on the solution must be intact and without cracks. Separately, it is worth checking the bolts that will screw the base of the socket to the body, and also trying it on so that the socket is properly fixed inside. In general, the ideal option is to purchase sockets and socket boxes as a set.

The power supply of any room must ensure the ability to quickly connect electrical installations (including household appliances). For this purpose, sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Rules (ELR) require that each socket have a housing that provides protection against electric shock. Sockets designed for wall-mounted installation (including outdoor) have their own housing that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket boxes is provided.

Receptacle boxes serve multiple functions

Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and securely hold the socket itself.
Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials and prevent electrical potential from reaching the load-bearing structures from the contacts.
In addition, the outlet itself is protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not penetrate inside the case.
Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket box.
There is also an aesthetic component. When installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, the seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.

Requirements for socket boxes

There is no single set of rules describing the installation of boxes for hidden installation of electrical outlets. Rules for electrical installations require compliance with general fire and electrical safety requirements. In this sense, installing a box under an outlet is no different from installing a distribution box. There are building codes and regulations (SNiP) that determine the geometry of placement of sockets in a room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.

We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket boxes will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.

An optional but useful requirement is the ability to connect several sockets to each other using standard clamps. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.

We proceed to the direct installation of socket boxes

Before starting work, it is advisable to have a complete set of consumables. Power cable, required number of socket boxes (with a small reserve for scrap), building mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool you plan to use to cut the holes.

Marking

Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will be trenching the walls for it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket boxes begins with careful marking.

It is impossible to guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you will want to rearrange your apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:

For universal use - at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the laid finishing coating).
For large household appliances (washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
If the socket blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - no less than 10 cm from the surface.
A special case is the installation of sockets for a TV hung on the wall. This is an individual project.
But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (applies to a group installation, in a row). This value for installing standard sockets is 71 mm.

The horizontal position must also be taken into account. From corners, ceiling, floor, door frames - a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators, no closer than 50 cm. Of course, you cannot place sockets above heating appliances (with the exception of the “warm floor” system) and above kitchen stoves. Electrical installation rules and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.

Making holes

There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between them. It all depends on the tools and attachments you have. There is no fundamental difference between installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.

Crown for stone (concrete, brick). The classic and fastest option for drilling a wall for a round box.
The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Considering the external dimensions of the socket boxes (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it’s easier to fill an extra gap with a solution than to squeeze a box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of a miscalculation in the markings. Then, adhering strictly to the central markings, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket box by 10–15 mm. You won’t be able to make ready-made holes; most likely the installation location will look like this:
It's okay, the core can be easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt.

Advice! What to do if reinforcement gets in the way of the crown? (Applies to concrete walls only).

Identifying the metal under the crown is not difficult. You definitely can’t go wrong: the deepening stops and a characteristic knocking and vibration appears.

The best advice is to change the location of the outlet. The reinforcement has a pitch of 15–30 mm; if the placement is not so important, move the hole by 3–5 cm. Before doing this, try to determine which reinforcement you hit: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.

If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out a “glass” of concrete to see the metal. Use a bolt to break the area around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. A wire with a diameter of 5–6 mm can be cut with a chisel.

Thicker reinforcement will have to be drilled out.

The best option is to cut out this area with a grinder. We will get acquainted with this method further.
Drilling holes using a drill. Not the easiest way, but if you don’t have a crown, you can make one or two seats. The fundamental difference is that the contour is not drilled at the center marking point. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
And then, as in the first option, use a bolt or chisel.
Tip: Don't be afraid to damage the integrity of the wall around the holes. Of course, you want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: the holes are like in the picture, a perfectly even row. You will simply waste extra time; all uneven areas will be plastered over and covered with the finishing surface.

By the way, if you are installing socket boxes in a brick wall, drilling will not be a difficult task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a hammer drill: with a conventional drill with a Pobedit drill bit.

If you are making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. There is less damage (concrete breaks out in pieces), and it is easier to select a hole.
Installation of socket boxes using a grinder. This method is not used due to the lack of a drill or crown for concrete. If you have an angle grinder, then you also have a hammer drill. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the others.
The only condition under which this method is indispensable is working with a reinforced concrete wall of special strength. You will simply dull an expensive bit, and the discs on an angle grinder cost pennies.

Together with the grooves for the power cable, we simply cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the socket boxes.

It definitely looks rough. On more or less treated walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if finishing is still a long way off, this is the fastest and most effective way. Also suitable for brick walls.
The most unesthetic method is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be resorted to only if other methods are impossible. However, the technology is there and we cannot ignore it.

The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with connected grooves. We clean the niches with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime them.

Installation of boxes

In accordance with the markings, we try on the assembled blocks. Installation of socket boxes is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests on an incorrectly drilled niche, it needs to be expanded. Marking is our everything! Don’t be lazy at this stage, even if you don’t want to pick up a chisel again and make a mess.

Experienced installers attach the socket boxes to some kind of guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.

If you simply sit the socket boxes in a liquid solution, they may move before they dry completely. You'll have to redo everything again.

The wires must be left with a margin of 10–15 cm. When installing sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.

The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plastering

If the surface is covered with plasterboard, there is no such problem. What to do when installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall?

In fact, from a technical point of view there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the planting height: the main thing is that the socket box does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3–5 mm, this is not a problem. The mounting pad of the socket will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.

The problem is rather psychological - it’s a shame to drill into a plastered surface.

When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed socket boxes protrudes above the plane of the wall, how will you apply the plaster evenly?

Therefore, the best option is to drill out niches, then plaster the walls (there will be holes for sockets with uneven edges), and then carefully clean the edges of the holes. Before installing the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markings.

Simple advice for beginning craftsmen: To prevent alabaster or plaster from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution takes 2–3 times longer to crystallize.

True, you will have to wait several hours for final drying. But the mixture will be many times stronger.

Selecting and installing a mounting box for an outlet with your own hands. Instructions for installing sockets in concrete walls How to install a glass under a socket