The problem of noise in a private home today is quite acute. Living in multi-apartment residential buildings with poor sound insulation sometimes becomes a huge problem for their residents. And this is especially true for those families with small children or elderly people who definitely need to relax in a calm, quiet environment.
Why is insulation from extraneous sounds needed?
Noise can enter apartments not only through windows from the street, even if they are modern plastic, but also through the main walls adjacent to neighbors. As a result, human comfort is completely disrupted.
That is why it is so relevant today in the apartment. Modern materials for carrying out this work are presented in a huge variety on the market, so sometimes it is difficult for a non-specialist to decide on their choice. Of course, you can ask the seller which of the offered options is the best.
Then between the profiles you need to very tightly lay “mattresses” made of fiberglass, mineral wool or any other material to soundproof the walls of the room. They should be secured with special anchors with wide heads. The resulting joints must be closed polyurethane foam or cover it with putty. During work, you need to pay attention to the tightness of the guides. metal profiles, because if it is small, the vibration will further increase the noise in the room. 
At the very end of installation, using self-tapping screws, finished frame plasterboard sheets should be fixed from the profiles. This is how you soundproof walls under wallpaper. If the owner is going to complete the finish by painting or whitewashing, then he will also have to putty.
You need to know this
If modern panels with decorative coating, then finishing with plasterboard will no longer be required. There will be no need to install guides, since this noise-insulating material is already attached directly to the surface using liquid nails. But if the walls themselves are uneven or have large differences, then preliminary lathing will still have to be done: it is on this that decorative panels will need to be installed.
Tired of being aware of the events happening with your neighbors on the floor? Perhaps you yourself like to invite a noisy company over, or listen to good music, which is impossible to appreciate using headphones. Conflicts over noise between neighbors in modern apartment buildings occur frequently. And this is due to the lack of good sound insulation of the walls. Fortunately, this disadvantage of the apartment can be eliminated on your own.
Important point
It should be noted that sound insulation should perform two functions:
- Soundproofing. Sounds coming from neighbors will be reflected, you will not hear what is happening behind the wall.
- Sound absorption. Sound waves propagating in your apartment will be absorbed by sound insulation, and your neighbors will not hear the noise coming from you.
Any of the three methods suggested below will help you soundproof your walls.
Ways to get rid of noise and work order
We build a structure from plasterboard
What you need
For this you need: plasterboard profile or wooden slats, hardware suitable for attaching the selected profile to the floor, ceiling and walls, sound-absorbing material, drywall and screws for it.
Work order
- Before entering the building soundproofing wall, it is necessary to eliminate all cracks and holes in it. Simply cover it with cement mortar.
- Then we make a frame for future sound insulation. You should not attach the profile directly to the wall itself; step back 2 centimeters from it. It is advisable to place vibration-isolating material made of cork or rubber under the profile. After the frame is built, we lay sound-absorbing material in it. This can be soft acoustic mineral wool, glass wool, or semi-rigid slabs of these materials. When choosing a sound-absorbing material, pay attention to the sound absorption coefficient - for soft materials it is usually higher, and, therefore, sound insulation will be more effective.
- The next step is to screw the drywall to the profile using self-tapping screws. Drywall is an excellent soundproofing material.
- Well, then everything is simple: glue the joints plasterboard sheets with a special mesh, putty on drywall, glue wallpaper, or paint the resulting wall.
Price
How much will such pleasure cost? We calculate approximately: drywall - 90 rubles per m2, sound-absorbing material - from 60 to 400 rubles per m2. These are the main costs, to which we add the cost of the profile and screws.
The disadvantages of this method include the “dusty” nature of the work, as well as the fact that each such wall will reduce the room by approximately 8 cm.
We buy ready-made decorative panels
There are now several manufacturers of this type of panel on the market. If the wall is not perfectly flat, such panels will need a sheathing, to which they are attached with liquid nails and connected to each other using the tongue and groove method. This method of soundproofing a room is quite simple, and the result is beautiful, since the panels have a ready-made decorative paper or fabric finish.
Price issue
The cost of panels is on average 750 rubles per m². The noise insulation properties of such panels will be comparable to the properties of materials from the first method. Among the advantages of installing decorative panels, we should note their lightness - one panel weighs about 4 kg.
This method should be used if you plan to insulate the entire room rather than just one wall. Decorative panels in this case will decorate the entire interior, and the area of the room will be reduced to a minimum.
We glue sound insulation to the wall: it’s as easy as shelling pears and cheaper than cheap
The easiest and least expensive way is to buy roll sound insulation, which just needs to be glued to the wall with vinyl wallpaper glue. For example, Polifom insulating substrate will cost 1,310 rubles per roll and will cover 7 m² of wall. Obviously, the option is the most budget-friendly, but also the least effective - it will reduce the noise level by only 60%.
It is worthwhile to apply such insulation if you rent a home and do not want to invest money in its repair.
Which method should I choose? Decide for yourself, based on your strengths and financial capabilities. Let the work done bring the expected result!
Video: example of work on soundproofing walls in an apartment
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Discussion:
I read the comments... People have a strange vision of silence. I wandered here to catch the zen of true silence. And the only problem everyone has is with the neighbors’ music.
When necessary, but loudly, and even more so when inappropriate and loudly, it can be done for 200 rubles. You go to the hardware store - buy an adjustable wrench (bigger), come back, knock (on your neighbors) - and hit them in the knee with all your might (to them, to him, to her - whoever opens it). Mute mode is guaranteed.
This is the case with us. On our side, the walls are insulated with 36mm thick penoplex, and our neighbors have plasterboard on the walls where there is a void between the wall and the plasterboard itself, they didn’t even lay mineral wool. T.K. Their Builders told them that they don’t need it, and the walls are so thick. And the walls are made of cinder block and concrete in places. While the neighbors themselves lived everything was fine, but now they rented out their housing and this began...... You can hear everything. A lonely, loving lady settled there....., tell me, if the neighbors will at least lay mineral wool between the sheet of plasterboard and the wall, taking into account our warm wall, will this help us???))))
Luda, the min. cotton wool is not very good useful thing. Google it, you will find a lot of information about it. Some sources claim that mineral wool is a carcinogen!!! Better try foamed polyurethane, it seems to be more neutral.
We made sound insulation with mineral wool, and the sound from the neighbors decreased, but did not disappear, but a new problem appeared: dry air. Now we can’t sleep in the bedroom, but we’re coughing. Can anyone tell me what to do?
A video about egg containers, not so stupid. As it may seem. I have experience with soviet neighbors who don’t like heavy metal. Cardboard, especially an uneven surface, has the best sound absorption coefficient. Bonus: the best absorbent floor (for neighbors below) 5 - 10 centimeter layer broken glass(bottle) pressed with boards on screws
My husband and I were in a hurry to renovate our new apartment and didn’t bother with soundproofing, but now we regret it. The wall with neighbors is made of sibit, and there is a small studio there. As a result, in our bedroom you can clearly hear their TV, you can hear the toilet being flushed, you can hear all the loud conversations. And we have a crib in our bedroom... so now we’re thinking about remodeling the bedroom and soundproofing it.
I can only speak based on personal experience. My neighbors are avid “music lovers” and for a very long time they tormented me with specific music in different time day, often in the evenings. No amount of complaints or exhortations helped, and there was no way to change the apartment, and the apartment itself was good. So I decided to do some repairs and soundproofing. I will say right away that it helped a lot. Now I can calmly stay in my apartment without any hassles from my neighbors. but you need to take into account that insulating the walls takes up some of the footage: frame + material. It took a couple of square meters from me. If the size of the room is large or medium, it’s not scary, but if the apartment is small, then this is already problematic.
Mira, you have no reason to worry. Any sound insulation will be useful to both you and your neighbors. And it will work in both directions equally. Of course there are certain nuances. For example, the noise of a hammer drill is almost impossible to reduce, because its impacts are transmitted by vibration.
Finally found good advice on the issue of soundproofing an apartment. The issue of relations with neighbors is quite painful, especially because of noise. However, this article remains unclear - who should be isolated from whom? It seemed to me that all three tips help neighbors more. That is, if you use any of the technologies, the sounds from my apartment will be absorbed. But what to do if it’s the neighbors who are bothering you with the noise? I would also like to know about the percentage of noise absorption from inside and outside the room where all the above wall insulation options were used.
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Noise is not as harmless a phenomenon as it might seem: it is no coincidence that its level and time, acceptable for noisy work and entertainment, regulated by law.
If you suffer from rowdy neighbors, noise from operating equipment, or screams coming from the sports field, do not try to get used to it: it may cause health problems(from hearing impairment and nervous disorders to hormonal imbalances and cardiovascular diseases).
In cases where it is impossible to neutralize the noise source, the only reasonable solution would be to acoustically insulate your own apartment.
Review of modern materials
The first thing you need to know about acoustic insulation: sound absorption and sound insulation are different concepts.
Soundproofing- this is the installation of obstacles in the path of the sound wave that will prevent the sound from penetrating into the room or, conversely, spreading outward. Sound absorption occurs due to the conversion of sound energy into thermal energy and a decrease in the intensity of the reflected wave.
Naturally, different materials are required for these purposes: soundproofing materials must have sufficient large mass and density, and sound-absorbing – have soft, porous structure.
So, we list the main sound-absorbing materials:
- Fiberglass or mineral wool boards(better than basalt) are quite effective, but have a noticeable thickness (from 3 cm). They are placed in a special frame inside sheathing made of plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheets.
- Polyurethane foam panels (acoustic foam, “sound-absorbing pyramids”) are simply attached with glue, and it is not even necessary to level the surface under them. The thickness of such a panel is from 3.5 to 10 cm; the height of each pyramid is from 2 to 7 cm.
- Liquid sound insulation- only the name, in reality, sound absorption occurs. It must be applied in a thick layer (at least 3 cm), without particularly leveling: you will still have to cover it with plasterboard or a decorative panel.
- Cork sheets or rolled cork– the coating is decorative, but with a thickness of 0.8-1 cm it can be used for sound insulation. Sound absorption will be more effective if the diameter of the pressed chips is no more than 3 mm (be sure to pay attention to this, since crumbs up to 6 mm in diameter are found).
For sound insulation, products from the following list are usually used:
- Wall covering with plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheets with mounting to the wall at a distance. A gap of at least 4 cm wide must be provided between the wall and the sheathing to be filled with noise-absorbing materials (see above).
- Soundproofing panel systems(ZIPS or sandwich panels) - industrial version of the previous version; their thickness varies from 5.5 to 13.5 cm. Ready-made sandwich panels are mounted directly on the wall frameless way.
- Decorative soundproofing panels– thin (1.2-1.5 cm) layered material made of a cardboard frame and loose mineral filler (for example, quartz sand). To prevent sand from spilling out when cutting panels, it is necessary to seal their sections with special tape.
- Acoustic boards made of soft fiberboard– layered structure, including waterproofing, polystyrene foam and reinforcing mesh. Depending on the thickness of the filler, the slab can be thin (from 1 cm) or wide (about 10 cm).
- Wood fiber panels(more often coniferous species trees) is also a relatively thin (from 1.2 to 2.5 cm) facing material with soundproofing properties.
- Thin, high-density membranes The material is essentially homogeneous, but for ease of fastening to the wall they are sometimes coated.
How to choose the right insulation material?
If we do not take into account the financial component and subjective preferences for the color of the panel trim, then There are only two main criteria:
- Who will carry out the work: professionals or the residents themselves?
- What is more important: reducing the decibel level as much as possible or saving usable area apartments?
If you plan to do the installation yourself, then it is better to choose sandwich panels (ZIPS), which are assembled using a frameless method, or any covering that is glued with the entire surface to the wall.
More complex complex insulating structures are best left to professionals to install.
The answer to the second question allows you to choose between:
- covering the walls with multilayer panels or plasterboard (followed by filling with soft sound-absorbing material);
- thin soundproofing coatings.
Read also about choosing the best material for cladding the facade of a house.
Thin soundproofing materials
Objectively speaking, thin sound insulation is not a self-sufficient tool: even manufacturers often indicate in the description of the material that it is intended for use as part of “laminated” panels.
However, many people prefer to do everything possible for sound insulation even in cases where, for some reason, “sandwich” designs are not applicable.
Here is a list of the most common materials and their approximate thickness:
- lead foil in a polyurethane foam “case” - 0.7 cm;
- polymer-bitumen membrane coated with polypropylene – 0.4 cm;
- mineral membranes – 0.25-0.37 cm;
- polyethylene insulation for wallpaper - 0.5 cm (more details in the next sections).
Among thin single-layer materials, those with greater mass and density and the highest possible critical frequency (preferably outside the range that can be heard by the human ear) - that is, definitely not polyethylene.
Not everyone knows that the soundproofing capabilities of a material depend on the frequency of the “hostile” sound. So, the critical frequency is the lowest frequency after which the soundproofing characteristics of the material decrease.
From familiar materials highest critical frequency has lead, a level lower - steel, concrete, brick, rubber. If you choose according to this criterion, then best option– lead membrane. But, since lead is not the healthiest element periodic table, it is worth taking a closer look at the polymer-bitumen membrane: this artificial material has a critical frequency of lead, but does not contain harmful impurities.
The most popular mineral membranes - aragonite (Texaund) and barite (sound block, loaded vinyl) - contain polymers as a binder component, which give the material plasticity and elasticity. The small thickness of the membranes allows them to be used in several layers to improve the effect, alternating with noise absorption.
With a slight stretch Fine noise insulation includes those discussed earlier:
- acoustic slabs ( minimum thickness 1 cm);
- decorative panels made of wood fibers (from 1.2 cm);
- rolled cork covering (from 0.8 cm).
Basic methods of do-it-yourself noise isolation
They cope well with the noise coming from the street plastic windows, but the main thing here is not to overdo it: you should not order a two- or three-chamber double-glazed window, since more glass not only does not improve, but in some cases may impair sound insulation. It is better to install a single-chamber package (of two glasses) with as much distance between them as possible.
It is much more difficult to level out noise coming from indoor sources (in our case - apartment building). Fortunately, preparatory stage soundproofing work for your apartment anyone can do it, who has ever encountered repairs.
It’s best to start by sealing the joints between the slabs and sealing other cracks and holes. If the gaps are large, you need blow them out with foam or, at worst, tamp tightly with a rag; if they are small, just carefully putty on them.
Next important point– get rid of the through sockets (to do this you will have to slightly redraw the electrical wiring) and strengthen all the others in the socket.
Now the next step is plaster (of course high quality, elastic, with good adhesion). It turns out that a thick layer of plaster plus putty already provides a good level of noise insulation: in a standard situation, when the neighbors have no-repairs, no-holidays and no-fights, you will be able to sleep or work peacefully.
Soundproofing walls in an apartment: video instructions.
If “standard” situations are rather an exception to the rule, then You can’t do without additional acoustic insulation. For DIY installation the following will do:
- soundproof sandwich panels (ZIPS);
- decorative panels with loose filler;
- panels made of wood fibers or compressed cork chips;
- thin high-density insulating coatings;
- liquid sound insulation;
- polyethylene backing for wallpaper.
All these materials do not require special installation skills: with their help, anyone can equip a soundproofed room!
To insulate walls in spacious rooms, preference should be given to combined multilayer structures: their sound insulation characteristics are significantly higher than those of homogeneous materials.
If you are a professional in the field of repair and construction work, it will not be difficult for you to cover the walls with plasterboard with mineral or fiberglass filler inside the sheathing: this option is a classic of acoustic insulation, but will cost less good finished panels.
How to soundproof walls under wallpaper?
So, the walls are prepared for finishing putty. If you decide to make light sound insulation with polyethylene foam, then it is not necessary to add putty to the ideal, the material itself will perfectly hide small irregularities.
The polyethylene foam backing for wallpaper is usually already covered with paper on both sides and rolled into rolls, so it is simply cut into pieces of the required length and glued to the plaster (without overlap!) with glue for heavy wallpaper.
Be sure to take care in advance that during work and when drying the material the temperature in the room was above 10◦C.
When the substrate dries, you can glue any wallpaper: both ready-made and for painting (material has water-repellent properties, so the water emulsion will not harm it).
Acoustic ceiling insulation
The purpose of soundproofing the ceiling is to get rid of not only airborne (spreading through the air), but also structural (spreading through floor slabs) noise.
The last type of noise is also called vibration or shock: This includes sounds that occur when dragging furniture, falling heavy objects, walking in heels on parquet, etc.
Important: Regardless of which soundproofing method is chosen, the first thing you need to do is foam or putty the gaps between the slabs.
Whatever the original height of the room, It’s better to sacrifice centimeters: The optimal solution for insulation from impact noise would be to install a suspended plasterboard or stretch ceiling.
Moreover, the gap between the ceiling and the newly formed ceiling must be filled with good sound-absorbing material (see photo) (in no case with polystyrene foam!).
Please also ensure that the fastenings (and the substrates under them) are also soundproofing.
Both tension and suspended ceilings among professional builders there are plenty of ardent supporters, so it's up to you to decide. An additional advantage in favor of tension is that its coating itself is narrower is decorative element , while a plasterboard structure needs to be puttied, wallpapered or painted.
If the height of the room is so small that you cannot even think about reducing it, it’s worth trying decorative ecological soundproofing panels (1.2-1.5 cm thick) or an ultra-thin aragonite soundproofing membrane.
Important: Soundproofing one ceiling (without walls and floor) will not help to completely remove even noise from neighbors above, since sound can also spread through wall partitions.
The review of materials for acoustic insulation provided here is, of course, not complete, but can be a starting point for your search.
Thermal insulation of walls is the only way to create a comfortable microclimate in the house and reduce heating costs. What to do if placing insulation outside is impossible due to the height of the floor or the need to preserve the architectural image of the building? In such a situation, there is only one way out - to install heat-insulating material from the inside.
Walls made of brick or concrete panels easily allow cold to enter the room, so they must be insulated with a material with low thermal conductivity. To ensure that its placement from the inside does not bring more disadvantages than positive aspects, it is necessary to choose the right insulation.
There are several main criteria by which the choice is made:
- Flammability class. The indicator characterizes the degree of safety in case of fire. For installation, it is better to use products marked G1.
- No deformation or shrinkage. The material should not fall down and expose sections of the wall.
- Durability. The insulation device is carried out for a long time, so the products used must have a long service life.
- Thermal conductivity. One of the most important indicators The smaller it is, the better the insulation works.
- Vapor permeability. The low ability to transmit steam under conditions of internal insulation is a plus. It allows you to isolate the wall from moisture from the room.
In internal insulation has its advantages:
- the room temperature rises;
- work can be carried out at any time, regardless of the weather and season;
- interior change.
The process has more disadvantages:
- the area of the room decreases;
- a shift in the dew point leads to the appearance of dampness on the walls;
- you will have to leave the apartment during thermal insulation;
- the walls remain unprotected from external influence and are deprived of warming up from the inside;
- When installation errors occur, mold and mildew appear.
How to minimize negative consequences?
The main requirement to avoid condensation is to insulate the wall from moisture vapor from the room. In addition, its surface must be protected by a continuous layer of high-quality waterproofing. To fulfill these conditions you need to follow several rules:
- The insulation must have a lower vapor permeability coefficient than the wall, then moisture will escape out.
- It is necessary to provide effective ventilation of the room.
- A minimal gap is left between the thermal insulation layer and the wall surface.
- The adhesive composition is not applied pointwise, but as a continuous coating.
- Finishing is done with moisture-resistant cardboard.
- To ensure the tightness of the waterproofing, the sheets must be laid with an overlap and the joints and junctions must be taped with special tape.
Characteristics and types of materials for internal thermal insulation
Extruded polystyrene foam - optimal choice for insulation interior walls. It has minimal vapor permeability; when installed with glue, there is no gap left between the slabs and the wall. The effective thickness of the slabs is 25-30 mm, they occupy small area rooms. Durable material does not lose shape, is resistant to moisture, and is lightweight. Plastering works can be carried out on the surface of the insulation by laying a reinforcing mesh. It does not require a frame for finishing and fastening waterproofing like mineral wool. Before installing the slabs, the wall is simply coated with an antifungal compound.
Polystyrene foam - the material is a cheaper and less durable version of extruded polystyrene foam. It attracts buyers with its low thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, and ease of installation. The insulation does not allow steam to pass through well, which is necessary for indoor placement. thermal insulation material. Affordable cost is a strong argument in favor of polystyrene foam. Among the disadvantages:
- flammability;
- attractive to rodents;
- fragility.
Mineral wool is not the best material for insulating a room from the inside. Its excellent vapor permeability, which is useful in another situation, becomes a disadvantage here. But it is not necessary to abandon mineral wool; before laying it, you need to waterproof the wall with plastic film.
To install the insulation, you will have to assemble a sheathing from wooden blocks or galvanized profiles. When placing the material vertically, it is not recommended to use rolled cotton wool; it gets knocked down over time, and unprotected sections of the wall are formed. It is better to purchase rigid slabs that are easy to install and not subject to deformation.
In all other respects, mineral wool is optimally suited for indoor placement; it is durable, does not burn, retains heat well and absorbs noise. When working with insulation, a protective suit is required.
Penofol is foamed polyethylene covered with a film of aluminum foil. The reflective layer can be located on one or both sides. The material is safe, has low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability. It can be used alone or as a protective layer on top of mineral wool.
Ecowool is a loose crumbly material made from natural cellulose. It contains borax additives and boric acid, chemical substances protect the insulation from burning and rotting. Ecowool is a good heat and sound insulator, it does not shrink and lasts a long time. Flaws:
- application of the material is carried out using special equipment;
- wet insulation will take several days to dry.
Liquid ceramic thermal insulation consists of air-filled ceramic balls and a polymer to bind them. Material is applied thin layer from a spray gun. In terms of efficiency, it surpasses all of the listed insulation materials. Advantages:
- withstands high temperatures up to +250º;
- moisture resistance;
- adhesion to all building materials;
- environmental friendliness;
- no load on the wall;
- for insulation, it is enough to apply a layer of 3 mm;
- resistance to mold and mildew;
- durability, warranty period up to 25 years.
Insulation of walls from the inside is carried out in exceptional cases; it will bring the expected effect only when used suitable material and compliance with the technology of its installation.