Continuing detailed review drills, we move on to the category of micromotors. At this hour, this is one of the most popular types. And we will be guided by reviews. very reliable and even more maneuverable than hose ones.
MICROMOT drills are power tools with a motor attached behind the handpiece. They are intended for fine work on ceramics, wood, precious metals, non-ferrous metals, plastic.
Let's look at MICROMOT drills from the most popular manufacturers.
Proxxon
The Germans thought through everything down to the smallest detail. The Proxon drill fits perfectly in the hand and is capable of working without loss of quality and speed at any angle. It does not have rubber inserts on the handle, but this is not a drawback.
The body is made of special plastic, durable and anti-slip. As for power, this drill will outshine any other even for large jobs. But what’s especially nice is its weight (270 g). All these advantages are especially visible in the Proxxon MICROMOT 230/E model.
Drill DPM 25-2
It has a medical tip, it fits comfortably in the hand, and the price is more than affordable. Her main drawback– this is exactly a medical tip. It cannot withstand heavy loads and quickly fails. As for repairs, after the first breakdown the machine can be thrown away, because the carbon brushes of this unit wear out quickly and cannot be replaced.
Marathon
It is produced in Korea, and for most masters the drill is attractive due to its functionality. It has high revs (30,000 rpm) and excellent power. The disadvantage is the price. Marathon is not cheap, and for all its classiness, it cannot withstand power surges. But in our realities, such drills do not last long.
Dremel engraver
There are a lot of people dissatisfied with this unit. Especially the Dremel engraver 290-1 model. Only 6,000 rpm, the design itself, although small, does not fit well in the hand. The possibilities are very limited: you cannot drill or grind. You can work only if you take it like a ballpoint pen.
The Dremel 200 is a different matter. It has more revolutions (35,000 rpm), a full range of capabilities, but the body is a bit thick. In addition, it itself is short, or rather, the length that it is may not be enough for work.
Bosch
Well, who among the masters has not dreamed of a drill from this company? She looks very beautiful and tempting. In terms of functionality, it is comparable, perhaps, to Proksonovskaya, however, there is one “but”. The entire filling of this unit is very sensitive to force. If you are used to frequently changing speed during the process and working with hard wood, then you will have to think not about how to get the job done, but about how to maintain the machine, and a very expensive one at that.
Most craftsmen and processing specialists different materials For fine work, electric engravers and drills are used, which are more commonly called simply Dremel. They must exactly correspond to the purpose of use, which means it is time to consider the differences and features of choosing such a tool for your workshop or small home tasks.
What work is planned to be done
In our educational program we will give answers to most popular questions regarding hand drills and engravers. The most important of them is what determines such a variety of instruments and what is the specialization of individual varieties. The first thing a novice engraver or micromachining enthusiast needs to understand is that a drill is not universal tool. Before purchasing it, you need to know exactly what operations will be carried out during the work, and what specific materials will be processed.
Three most important criteria for any drill - power consumption, speed range and torque. Power is a very relative concept; the real performance of the working part of a drill depends both on the efficiency of the engine and on the efficiency of the speed control system. However, it is by power that one can quite accurately determine the suitability of a drill for processing parts of various sizes:
- For engraving and invoicing - up to 50-70 W.
- For artistic carving - 100-150 W.
- For cutting and grinding small parts - 100-250 W.
- For multidisciplinary work with massive parts - from 200 W.
The ratio of spindle speed and torque is determined solely by the properties of the materials being processed. Thus, for milling plastic and tough metals, low speeds with high torque of 3.5-5 N/cm are required. In turn, stone carving, bone carving and grinding require a rotation speed of at least 35-40 thousand rpm, and torque is a secondary parameter that determines the amount of material removed in one pass. All these nuances will be discussed during our review.
A few words about Dremels
Drills are often mistakenly called Dremels, although this is only one of the brands. More knowledgeable people are asking the question: are expensive branded tools of this class really worth the money spent and is such a purchase justified if you have no experience of use?
Those interested should know that a limited number of power tools are produced under the Dremel brand, and these are mainly rotary hand drills. Their range is quite large - a dozen models of varying power with different ratios spindle speed to torque. As a rule, branded tools are purchased not for one-time work, but with the expectation that they will pay off over time. professional activity. For beginners, Dremel or Proxxon drills can also be a profitable purchase; this tool has a significant margin of reliability and is quite tolerant of errors when choosing processing modes. In addition, the branded tool does not have such diseases as inaccurate collet fit, problems with cooling, alignment and engine balancing. However, buying a branded drill will be an adequate solution only if the instrument will be used more or less regularly, and not just as a test.
But what about other types of drills? In total, at least five can be distinguished:
- Manual rotary drills.
- Drills with a micromotor.
- Hanging drills.
- Pneumatic drills.
If, while studying the material below, you come to the conclusion that a certain type of tool is ideal for your purposes, it is better not to focus on a specific manufacturer. Having compared the processing features of certain materials and working conditions, it is necessary to establish exact specifications equipment, and only after that think about the issue of quality and reliability.
Nuances of processing different materials
Processing of materials using drills and engravers is carried out either by cutting, that is, milling, or by abrasive grinding. A special processing mode is implemented in engravers; they are essentially micro-perforators, that is, they process the material with a high-frequency impact method. And if when working with an engraver, the processing mode is determined mainly by the force of pressure on the tool, then the efficiency of cutting and grinding with a drill depends on the speed and torque.
Working with burrs requires the most accurate and correct selection of the cutting mode. With increasing radial distance cutting edges the angular velocity increases from the spindle axis; accordingly, it is necessary to reduce the spindle speed. Rotational speed cutting tool should be high enough to effectively reject chips, but not too high so that the edges have time to cut portions of the material and do not rub against the surface to no avail.
You also need to take into account the viscosity, fusibility and hardness of materials. Almost no type of milling equipment is designed to operate at speeds above 30-35 thousand rpm, and at extreme speeds, needle cutters are used predominantly. The above speed limit is based on hard metals like steel and stone, but for fluoroplastic or polyethylene this level is reduced to 4-6 thousand rpm; at higher speeds the chips simply melt. Working with burrs requires fairly accurate and smooth speed adjustment, which allows you to adjust the cutting mode on waste samples of material.
Abrasive grinding, on the contrary, is designed for high rotation speeds, which contributes to better cooling work surface And effective removal removed microchips. For this mode, drills capable of delivering 50 thousand revolutions or more are optimally suited. Torque for this type of processing is not of fundamental importance, because grinding and polishing are the final types of processing, where the material removal is absolutely negligible. A separate position from grinding and milling is occupied by the work of diamond burrs, which require the highest possible spindle speed - from 100 thousand revolutions per minute.
Engine type and location
The classic type of hand drill has a monoblock design. The housing houses a commutator motor; its armature shaft simultaneously serves as a spindle, at the end of which there is a collet for attaching equipment. At the back of the case there is simplest scheme speed control, the principle of which is to change the applied voltage. The advantages of this arrangement include high accuracy, simplicity and reliability; the disadvantages are a significant increase in the mass of the tool with an increase in power.
Direct rotary engraver device
Drills with a micromotor have a separate power supply, while the electric motor is located in the handle, and the power supply is in a separate housing. This arrangement provides higher ergonomics due to reduced weight and ease of control of the drill using a pedal. Another advantage of micromotors is the ability to use more effective schemes power supplies and speed control, with large overall dimensions and requiring active cooling of components. As a micromotor, it can be used like a regular brushed motor direct current, and brushless, designed for more precise speed control.
Drill "Profile B-05" with power supply "Profile-6T"
A special type of drill with a separate motor is suspended; they are designed to connect the spindle to the handpiece via a flexible shaft. The main advantage of such drills is their virtually non-existent power limit. You can also point out the possibility of attaching a wide range of tips to the shaft, which themselves are quite cheap. In addition to rotary handles, impact engraving handles can also be used, designed for installing a gravel or chisel for wood carving.
Pneumatic drills also have the same advantages due to their layout, but their tips have more high cost and are designed for use at extremely high rotation speeds - more than 300 thousand rpm.
Mains or battery
A standard benefit of battery power is the ability to work without being connected to a power source. electrical network. This advantage is especially pronounced when working in hard to reach places or at non-electrified sites. The disadvantages are also obvious - the operating time is limited by the battery charge and the limited service life of the battery itself.
However, in the context of operating a drill, battery power can have an additional benefit. For example, when processing bone, some types of plastics and glass composites, grinding and wet milling are required. The degree of protection of a power tool does not allow processing material with a coolant supply, but in the case of working with a cordless tool, at least the possibility of electrical injury is eliminated.
We would like to separately mention the disadvantage of battery-powered drills, such as the increase in weight, which is even more pronounced in comparison with networked ones. hand tools. We can talk about any ease of working with such a drill with a power consumption of up to 70-100 W; a more productive tool cannot be used for a long time - the hand simply gets tired and numb.
Ergonomics and controls
When choosing a drill, the ease of grip of the body and the absence of vibration are especially important. If everything is relatively clear with the first factor - it’s enough just to hold the tool in your hands and try it out before buying, then getting rid of vibration entirely depends on the design and layout of the motor with the spindle. If it is not possible to evaluate ergonomics, as is the case when ordering in online stores, you should pay attention to the quality of casting, the shape of the case and the presence of rubber pads that prevent slipping.
Vibration of the drill is categorically unacceptable, because even with the slightest trembling, after 3-5 minutes of work, a painful itch appears in the hands, and irreversible damage to the carpal and phalangeal joints occurs. Vibration in drills appears as a consequence of resonance, which occurs due to the transmission of vibrations from the working body to the engine and vice versa. The main reason for this phenomenon is poor alignment of the armature, the presence of a poor-quality intermediate kinematic transmission unit, or excessively rigid mounting of the engine. It is optimal if the commutator motor armature is mounted in shock-absorbing cups and the spindle is secured with a backlash-free needle bearing. For DC motors best way fastenings - fitting the motor housing into neoprene segment covers, as is done in Dremel drills. Also, an original technical solution is used in instruments trademark“Profile” - connection of the spindle to the motor with a damper coupling.
The quality of speed control depends on the design and type of engine. Corded hand drills use resistive or electronic circuit changes in the applied voltage, captivating with its cheapness and simplicity; the same control principle is implemented in most budget drills with a micromotor. The disadvantage of this scheme is a significant drop in torque at low speeds and low adjustment accuracy. At the same time, high-quality suspended drills and micromotors use PWM control, which does not have the described disadvantages.
For many, the drill is the embodiment of childhood horrors associated with visiting dental office, and the sound it makes is one of the most unpleasant in the world. Meanwhile, if we consider it as a unique tool used in various fields, including the one we have already mentioned, then it is perhaps not possible to find its equal in a number of properties.
The drill got its name from the name of the tool most often used to work with it - a drill. The most common uses for drills in a home workshop are the following:
This is a Chinese Dremel drill with an average cost of 12 - 13 thousand rubles, one of the options for a dental drill machine with approximately the same price and a more expensive (by about a third) direct grinder.
No one can definitely answer what is better and what is worse. It depends on what types of work the tool will be primarily used for. The most universal, according to many, is the Dremel. The abundance of its equipment allows you to perform the widest range of operations for processing most materials: metal, wood, plastic, bone, without additional hassle of re-equipment. The most reliable version is similar to the Makita straight grinder.
Drills differ mainly by:
- power;
- number of revolutions per minute;
- a device for fastening a bur or other working tool;
- the presence or absence of a flexible shaft.
And they select a specific type of drill, mainly to perform certain type works And here, for carving wood or bone, perfect option— presence of 80 – 150 Watt motor at 8 – 12 thousand rpm.
If the drill acts mainly as a microdrill with the functions of stripping and grinding, then it is quite possible to get by with 3000 rpm. Based on this…
The simplest options for homemade drills
A standard electric drill in most cases has the required 3000 rpm, which makes it quite reasonable and rational to use it as a propulsion device for a basic drill capable of much.
A simple device for fastening in a vice, both the drill itself and the stop for the free end of the shaft, will provide you with a completely functional drive. Then, of course, you can use any braided cable (for example: a truck speedometer cable).
Build a simple handle for the second end with some kind of sliding bearing, buy a collet clamp with the appropriate parameters...
But, with the cost of a ready-made flexible shaft with a collet clamp for a tool ranging from 800 to 900 rubles with delivery from China to your post office, this can only be done out of pure love for plumbing.
In this case, adjustment will be minimal, if necessary at all. If the chuck of your drill can confidently clamp the free end of the shaft, then you won’t have to do anything other than the mentioned fasteners. If not, you will have to slightly shorten the threaded cup from which it comes out.
It must be said that the collet clamp of such a shaft has parameters suitable for most standard burs.
And the durability of the speedometer cable, compared to the Dremel flexible shaft, is very doubtful, but if you still decide to try, it’s better to look for a cable with a left-hand winding - it will last longer.
Obviously, it is not worth describing in detail the option of using any sufficiently large electric motor instead of an electric drill (for example, from washing machine) With V-belt drive regulating the speed on the shaft. It is even easier to adapt such a flexible shaft to some small tabletop drilling machine.
A the simplest option The drill will, of course, have a collet clamp attached to the shaft of a micromotor, powered by 3 half-volt batteries, which can be used together with the housing and container for them, used in small hand-held flashlights.
You can come up with the option of assembling this miniature drill into a single whole yourself.
Making a drill for wood carving with your own hands
And yet, if we talk about an easy-to-use drill, most users agree that the best option is the one in which you, as they say, hold the engine in your hands. With all this, it should not be heavy, bulky, and should not tear off the hand when starting.
We bring to your attention an example of making such a drill for small jobs with our own hands.
For this particular drill the following was used:
- brushless electric motor with permanent magnets DPM-25;
- a piece of pipe from a vacuum cleaner;
- collet clamp with replaceable inserts;
- power button;
- 2 banana plugs;
- two-wire power supply wire;
- heat shrink tubes.
DPM-25 electric motors are represented by a large number of modifications with significantly different parameters. So, the number of revolutions they produce can be from 2500 rpm. up to 9000 rpm. So you can choose with the characteristics you need. You can buy them in many online stores or on the radio market, which is several times cheaper.
It must be said that in addition to 25 engines, there are also 30 and 32 and more powerful ones, and also with different parameters.
I'm currently waiting in line for something similar appearance and a constructive motor powered by the same 27 volts, but with a diameter of 100 mm. Both this and the ones we offer you for a homemade drill were used in aviation technology.
The button can be with or without locking. Collet clamps are selected in a radio shop according to the motor shank (this one is 2 mm) and the diameters of the tool shanks that are planned to be used for work. Here, the variety of options is even greater than when choosing an engine.
You can also use a collet clamp from a dental drill. In specialized stores it is not that expensive, but you can find very inexpensive used ones.
And there are also plenty of options for supplying electricity to the engine. A very convenient and simple method using a tulip-type connector, where “+” is supplied to the central wire, and “–” to the outer cup. And given that the motor is reversible, the direction of rotation should be adjusted on the power supply:
These small digressions will not distract us much from the process of making a particular drill, but they can be useful in terms of varying its design.
1. Cut off the part of the vacuum cleaner tube that goes to the narrowing - this way the motor will be installed more securely, with a length so that it is convenient to hold the tool in your hand.
2. We cut a heat-shrinkable tube with a diameter of 32 mm along the length of the electric motor housing and, securing it to the shaft in a vise, rotating it by the power wires, we seat it, evenly heating it with a technical hair dryer from the center to both ends. In this case, we will just get the required size to fit it tightly in the tube. But, if you use a different tube for the housing, you can use electrical tape by winding the required amount of it on both ends of the motor housing.
3. Drill the hole for the electrical wire into in the right place, based on the parameters of the button and the wire itself.
4. Restrictive rings and seat for the button, cut it out from a suitable size plastic containers from medications, children's toys such as soap bubbles, etc.
5. Connect the wires through the button. Better - by soldering method. And, of course, do not forget to use it in soldering areas heat shrink tube to eliminate the slightest possibility of a short circuit.
6. Assembling the drill. If the sizes of the rings were chosen successfully, we simply press them into the body tube, and if not, then we use either hot melt glue or any suitable one for the materials used.
7. Place a collet chuck with a collet under the desired bur or drill, connect the drill to the power source. All.
The length of the body was chosen solely for reasons of convenience of placing the instrument in the hand.
The tool is powered by a factory-made regulated power supply - not a cheap thing, but very useful for many purposes in the home workshop. You can also use any step-down transformer that has outputs from 25 to 32 volts - permissible voltages for operating this engine, but it is better to adjust it to a nominal value of 27 volts.
It remains to add that such a drill is simply irreplaceable when used as a micro drill when carrying out small work on wood, when using drills with a diameter of less than 1 mm, and for grinding and polishing work in hard-to-reach places.
If you decide to make a drill with your own hands, then you should definitely know that often instead collet clamps A three-jaw microchuck is also installed on a similar tool. They are different designs and parameters, which determine the method of their attachment to the motor shaft. Sometimes hot glue is also used for this purpose, but alignment is difficult to do, although it is possible, but this method is only suitable for low-speed machines with low torque.
So there are many manufacturing methods and options for using such a tool as a drill.
The main thing is to have regard to this issue creativity, which we hope regular readers of our site have.
Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
Carved wood works, made by the hand of a master, attract attention with the filigree of the finish, the subtlety and elegance of the design, and the beauty of the material itself, which has been given a new long life.
The art of wood carving has a long and glorious history, from carved frames in the huts of the Russian hinterland to decorative masks from African villages. Each professional has his own technologies for carved wood processing in order to obtain a highly artistic product, as well as a set of tools for performing this delicate and painstaking work.
Hard, durable and heavy types of wood - boxwood, iron wood, hop hornbeam and many others - attract the attention of real professionals their original structure and beauty, although their processing requires great patience and skill.
Choosing a drill for wood carving
Exists a large number of units that facilitate the work of the cutter. Wood carving with a drill for beginners involves right choice tool. The success of learning and the rapid acquisition of the necessary skills depends on this. This work requires considerable perseverance, patience and care.
The most important criteria for determining the quality of the device are this is the spindle speed and the amount of torque. The speed can be from three to thirty thousand revolutions per minute. The cutter holder is made in a collet and is more reliable key form. To provide High Quality work and the most comfortable and safe operation It is recommended to have two types of engravers. One should be relatively low speed but have high torque, and the second should be high speed for finishing and polishing parts.
The price range for wood carving drills is quite large, however high price is not a guarantee good quality and reliability. Basically you need to focus on famous brands, which have established themselves in the world market as leading manufacturers. Powerful and reliable engines are produced, for example, by the American company Foredom S.R., which supplies its products with a wide range of components for attachments, holders and cutters for engraving. The Russian brand “Profile” fully meets the requirements for power, reliability and speed, which, in combination with affordable price makes the device quite attractive.
Professional drills for wood carving are distinguished by a set of specialized attachments and cutters for performing particularly delicate and precise operations that require mastery skills and knowledge of specific technologies. Such machines are also called mini-drills. or by hand engraver.
You can make an engraver for wood carving yourself, at home. An electric motor from a washing machine with a power of up to 300 watts is suitable for this purpose. You will need to buy a flexible shaft and a set of heads. In addition, it is necessary to have cutters, polishing and grinding attachments different sizes. It is good if it is possible to regulate the engine speed.
Types and purpose of cutters and attachments
Big variety dental instruments allows them to be successfully used in artistic carving. High strength and wear resistance will provide durable and quality application products.
Final finishing of products
To polish surfaces ready for final finishing, felt wheels are used, onto which a special paste is applied to achieve a mirror-like finish. Once the work has been completed and the required quality has been achieved, a coating is recommended for softwoods. thin layer clear varnish. This will ensure that the model is insulated from moisture and will increase the durability of the product. After varnishing You can polish the surface again until a homogeneous mirror structure is obtained. Hard grades do not require varnishing and allow you to enjoy the natural beauty of the material.
Dear readers, today I want to tell you about how to choose the right quality drill. This device is quite difficult to choose correctly. My article today will definitely help you do this. We will look at the main characteristics of the drill, which you should pay attention to when purchasing.
Speed
Many people believe that this is the main characteristic of the equipment. Good drill designed for a speed of about 35-40 thousand. This is quite enough for quality work. Some are unscrupulous drill manufacturers They write on their brainchild that the number of its revolutions is exactly 50 thousand. Most often, this is an outright lie, because at such a speed, many mechanisms in the device quickly wear out. The purpose of such PR is most often to attract attention to your equipment. Never believe what it says on the package. Better read reviews of drills on the Internet on specialized forums.
By the way, you can always overclock such equipment yourself. To do this, you just need to choose a power supply for it with higher voltage ratings.
Power
Power is another important indicator, characterizing drills. It is measured in Watts. The rotation speed of the working part of the apparatus and what operations can be performed using this equipment depend on it. The higher it is, the higher the rotation speed will be. Everything here is simple and clear. However, you shouldn't overpay for a particularly fast unit. Always consider why you need it in the first place.
Ergonomics
The ergonomics of the drill is also an important parameter. It should be easy to use. Accordingly, pay attention to its weight and how well it fits in your hand.