We recently bought coffee table, the price is inexpensive, but there is a “but”. The height of the table is too big for our interior. It would be nice to reduce the height of centimeters by 10. As they say, we are not looking for easy ways, I decided that
I can handle it with my own hands.
I remembered that on our website there is an asoleg specialist who did it, I am, of course, far from him, but some recommendations may help. I contacted him, explained the problem and he kindly shared his secret. With his permission, I publish his cutting technology furniture chipboard no chips.
Everything turned out to be banally simple. Mark the cutting line. Then stationery knife, along the ruler, cut through upper layer Chipboard. Just run the knife several times with little effort along the cut line. (I recommend practicing on an unnecessary piece of wood particle board) If you press very hard, then decorative layer It will start to swell and it won’t turn out very nice.
Next, retreating 1-2 millimeters from the intended line towards the rough part, we cut with a jigsaw or a suitable saw with teeth directed towards the saw handle. We make a notch on the opposite side of the cut to prevent chipping when completing the cut. And saw through to the end. You need to cut carefully, slowly. Then, using medium-grain sandpaper attached to a block, we clean the end of the part. If necessary, we remove the millimeter that we retreated. My cut turned out almost perfect; after sanding, there were no burrs at all. The photo shows the difference between the left and right side of the cut. Well, accordingly, if both parts of the chipboard are needed, we cut with a knife on both sides of the cut. We measure the thickness of the cut with a jigsaw or file and add 2 millimeters. The result is the distance that should be between the slits made with a stationery knife. We cut exactly between these lines. Then there will be no scuffing on the other side either. Naturally, you need to use a sharp tool, I use a tool.
Everything turned out great. On the finished table, my wife did not find the place where I cut.
Thank you for your assistance and assistance asoleg.
Tags: How to cut chipboard without chipping, how to cut chipboard without chipping.
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If you like to do things with your own hands, read the article.
In the process of making furniture yourself, the contractor may need to cut or trim the laminated chipboard for subsequent use. Of course, it is best to perform this operation by sawing, but if necessary and to reduce labor intensity, it is quite possible to cut laminated chipboard at home (using a jigsaw). Moreover, it is very important to implement this procedure in such a way as to minimize the number of chips and thereby create an even cut.
Why do chips appear?
Before cutting laminated chipboard or laminate using a jigsaw, it is advisable to understand why chips form when cutting sheet material. And the answer here is simple: everything lies in the design of the jigsaw, or rather in the design of the nail file.
So, during the cutting process, the file receives return movements (up and down). And if when the saw moves along the teeth (usually downwards), chips practically do not form, then when the tool moves in the opposite direction, the teeth seem to tear out the top layer of material, thereby forming an unpleasant chip. That is why you can observe an almost perfect cut with bottom side Laminated chipboard and a cut with chips along its upper edge.
Ways to minimize chipping
An additional reason for the formation of chips may be misalignment of the saw teeth. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is purchase a tool with a straight cut (often Bosh files). However, it should be taken into account that when long work, such files overheat and may even bend during the cutting process. Therefore, it is necessary to take breaks from work to cool the cutting tool.
However, just replacing the saw blade is not enough and in order to cut laminated chipboard (laminate) with a jigsaw without chipping, you need to make minor modifications to the power tool. Namely, make sure that when the saw moves against the inclination of the tooth, the material does not pull out. For this purpose it is enough to make a persistent platform. This conclusion can be reached by trying to cut through two laminated chipboard sheet. So there will be practically no chips on the lower element.
In order to make a stop pad for a jigsaw, it is enough to cut out a rectangle from any dense material (for example, laminate) with dimensions identical to the dimensions of the sole of the power tool.
Then, along the larger center line, you should make a notch and secure the resulting equipment to the sole of the jigsaw using insulating tape or double-sided tape. All modifications are ready and can be done finishing work in compliance with certain recommendations.
Firstly, as mentioned above, you should use a jigsaw file with a straight cut.
Secondly, in order to better control the cutting process, it is justified to apply a marking line on both sides of the chipboard and check the accuracy of the processing from above and below.
And thirdly, take constant breaks from work to cool the cutting equipment.
Sometimes the solution to this issue can be simply cutting through the laminated layer of material using a mounting knife, and subsequent work with a jigsaw will no longer cause large defects in the form of chips. However this work requires the performer to have certain experience and accuracy.
When you look at the price tags of furniture made from chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for designing furniture with your own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, whether on the Internet or in “paper” magazines, can now be found to suit every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.
The most suitable household tool for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even when cutting chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow strictly in a straight line, the saw wobbles; 2) chips form.
Are there ways to solve these problems? Eat. We will talk about them today. By the way, all these tricks also apply to cutting plywood.
Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support
Full support cutting means that when you get the saw to the end, the chipboard you are cutting will not immediately fall off.
If you want to get a very smooth and clear cut, Chipboard is better Just cut on the floor. This way you will 100% get a solid, stable base. The chipboard will not move even if you stand on top of it to complete the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, crack or fall.
Place 5x10cm pieces of wood under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, since the saw will pass through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.
Tip 2: Adjust the cutting depth
The appropriate cutting depth affects the quality of the cut.
Adjust the depth so that no more than half the disc's teeth protrude beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of the cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material rather than chopping it, and also stabilizes the saw so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on a chipboard cut less noticeable.
Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, lift the fence and look closely to set the correct cutting depth. By the way, at the same time it would be good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. One more point: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes in the upward direction, so chips most often form on that chipboard surfaces, which faces upward, and the cut from the side of the surface, looking downward, turns out cleaner. Therefore, when cutting chipboard, place a good, front side down.
Tip 3: For longitudinal cut use a hard, long, straight object as a guide
As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need to do is tighten its ends with a clamp.
The main difficulty is to place it in in the right place for a precise cut. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).
Add this to your cut width, mark the chipboard on both edges, and apply a guide board. You will also need to factor the thickness of the saw blade into your measurements.
It is usually best to have a metal base plate circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, this ensures maximum stability of the saw during cutting.
Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut
This is fine tuning, so to speak. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5cm long, thus determining the width of the part to be cut. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the guide and cut the chipboard. Make sure that the saw blade begins to rotate in the air before it even touches the sheet to be cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the cut to make sure that you have done everything and calculated it correctly. It’s better, as they say, to measure seven times...
Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping
Cut without stopping and maintain a constant speed. If you stop, it will leave a mark on the chipboard or plywood.
Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw and blade sharpness, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disc passes through a sheet of chipboard with little resistance, as if it were melting wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, it means either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Cutting too quickly tears the chipboard fibers and leaves noticeable marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.
Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. This is why it is best to cut on the floor when you make a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right along the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, without the need to reach or bend.
Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.
Tip 6: Get a blade with more teeth
The more teeth on the disc, the sharper the cut will be. And, naturally, the disk must be sharp.
In principle, all the disks from the picture above are capable of making a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the downside of the 140-tooth blade is that it becomes dull faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a 40 or 56 tooth disc. It's better to keep one more in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting.
Tip 7: Cross cutting is best done using duct tape.
The cross-cut runs perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade easily leaves behind chips. This a big problem, The best decision which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can perform this task using other drives. To do this, stick on both sides of the cut line duct tape. It will prevent the formation of chips.
You need to remove it carefully, pull it in a direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the laminating coating of the chipboard.
And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with adhesive tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.
If you have tried at least once cutting chipboard at home, you know for sure that this work is by no means easy and requires not only skill, but also the availability good tool. Particularly difficult to process laminated chipboard, when cutting which often produces a lot of chips. That is why many craftsmen, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut chipboard when purchasing, especially since many trading organizations provide similar services and the price is quite reasonable.
Chipboard sawing is carried out using precise format-cutting machines, which will help obtain workpieces of a given size and shape.
Modern models allow smooth sawing of slab materials not only in horizontal and vertical directions, but also at an angle.
In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you calculate and provide in the form of a visual video file several options for competent and economical cutting of sheet material (using special computer programs) and, if necessary, perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work before cutting the chipboard.
Tools and materials
If possible, it is best to cut chipboard with a hand router using homemade guides. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because when working with this tool you need a table. In addition, with this method it is necessary to change cutters frequently. But as a result, you will get cleanly processed, “trimmed” edges.
Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to make an even cut, and chips may form.
You can try installing a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, designed for laminate, on a jigsaw. When cutting with a jigsaw, you should increase the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.
If such methods do not suit you, then to cut chipboard at home, we will prepare for work:
- a hacksaw with fine teeth (the one designed for metal work is best). In this case, the teeth must be set apart by 1/2 the thickness of the blade and be hardened;
- paper adhesive tape;
- file for roughing the cut line;
- sandpaper to finish the cut line.
How to cut chipboard without chipping?
Before starting to cut chipboard, especially laminated chipboard, we cut a line along which we will cut with a sharp tool and glue paper tape along it with sticky layer. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.
To ensure that there are as few chips as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw at an acute angle to the surface (no more than 30°). Movements should be smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate or sudden jerks.
If chips still cannot be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and then with fine-grained sandpaper. You can also mask all defects by using, where possible, a flexible profile.
Figure cutting
It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration at home, and you will have to spend additional money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of chips and nicks formed when you cut chipboard.
Price for manual frezer may vary significantly depending on the manufacturer, power, availability additional functions. If you do not plan to produce furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.
To cut chipboard you need to follow these steps:
- marking on sheet of chipboard contours required part, we cut it out with a jigsaw, trying to cut just a couple of millimeters away from the intended cutting line;
- we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood and carefully sand the ends with sandpaper;
- attaching the template to the part to be finished, clamp it with clamps and process it manually copy cutter with the bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.
In this case, it does not matter which cutter (with two or four knives is used). The only condition is that the knives must cover the entire thickness of the cut being processed. After processing, all that remains is to glue the edge onto the part. How this is done - watch the video:
What not to cut chipboard
If the volume of work is large enough and the quality requirements are low, some craftsmen advise sawing chipboard at home using a grinder (angle grinder, commonly called an “grinder”). In doing so, they use a disk designed for working with wood. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is secured along the cutting line using clamps. Cutting chipboard using a grinder can sometimes be seen in the video.
Attention, important! This method is absolutely unacceptable, since the likelihood of injury during work is very high, especially if discs are used large diameter and the protective casing is removed from the grinder.
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping.
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw laminated chipboard only using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades, located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Method 5 - Fraser
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of making curved cuts, that is, making many, including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.