The most common way to finish the ends of cabinet furniture parts from laminated chipboard consists in gluing or other type of edge with subsequent processing. Along with this, there is another common way to finish the ends - inserting or gluing PVC edging. Kant is used, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture during its operation, high humidity as well as for design reasons.
Types of PVC piping.
Unlike the edge, in which the excess is cut off during the edging process, the edge is produced immediately for a specific plate thickness (the most common are 16 and 32 mm), PVC edge cutting to length is not provided for by the technology. It also does not provide for joining PVC edging at the corners. For piping of two adjacent ends, it is necessary to provide smooth transition- round the corner. The minimum possible rounding radius is selected empirically for each edging individually, since it strongly depends on the stiffness of the edging, the size of the sides, and the features of the upper (decorative) coating.
The edges of the edge can be both with sides (with girths, approaches to the plane of the material), and without them. Traditionally, beaded edging is used more widely for several reasons: it allows you to hide small chips in the laminate near the end of the part, to protect the end from direct moisture, it is less demanding on accuracy technological process and material thickness stability.
Furniture edging can be divided into two groups: mortise-type edging with a spike (T-edging), overhead-type edging without a thorn (C-edging). The mortise edging is available both with and without sides. Overhead edging without sides does not exist. The technologies for finishing the end of the part with one and the other type of edge differ radically, but (subject to the technology), in terms of operational reliability and consumer qualities, C- and T-edges practically do not differ.
Examples of mortise edge profiles: without sides for chipboard 32 mm (photo on the left), with sides for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are indicative, depending on the manufacturer of the edging.
Mortise edging.
Mortise piping is the most common type of PVC piping. Since the T-edging has a spike, for this a groove (groove) of a certain width and depth must be made at the end of the chipboard, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the edge spike). The main tool required for the installation of a mortise edge is a manual router with an edge cutter, or its stationary version - a milling machine.If there are no special requirements for the milling cutter, a low-power device from 1 kW is enough, then the milling cutter must be selected according to a number of parameters. Firstly, the cutter must leave behind a groove of a certain width, namely 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the edge spike. So how are u different manufacturers If the edge thickness of the spike is different, then, ideally, for cutting the edge into a 16 mm chipboard, you must have two cutters with tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and for inserting a 32 mm edge - a separate cutter, or even two. However, in practice, for reasons of saving money, it is enough to have only one cutter with a tooth height of 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of beats of the cutter and shaft ( collet chuck) router, this tooth height can be considered universal, suitable for cutting the vast majority of T-edges 16 mm. To make a groove with a much larger width, milling is performed in several passes, with a change in the overhang of the cutter. When tool and/or tool runout is detected, it is necessary to choose a cutter with a lower tooth height, since runout can lead to a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter must leave a groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the edge spike, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, in order to be able to use the edge of any manufacturer (with any length of the tenon), a cutter is required that provides a groove depth of 10 mm or more. It is irrational to choose a cutter with an unreasonably high milling depth, as this reduces the cutter's resource and leads to an increase in the load on the cutter. The sequence of operations when finishing the end face of chipboard with a PVC mortise edging is shown below.
An example of measuring the thickness of the edge tenon for chipboard 32 mm.
Italian edging has a thicker spike and b about More rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
An example of measuring the thickness of the edge tenon for chipboard 16 mm.
The Italian edge has a thicker spike, b about Greater rigidity and height of the sides (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
Examples of measuring the internal width of the edges
for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are indicative, depending on the manufacturer of the edging.
Edge cutter for mortise edging.
Groove depth W depends on bearing diameter d1, cutter diameter D
and is found by the formula W=(D-d1)/2.
Step 1. Sets the cutter to the center of the butt with an accuracy of no worse than +/-0.5 mm.
Step 2 We grind (grind) the edges of the laminated chipboard so that when stuffing the edges with the sides, the laminate does not chip off.
Step 3 We mill the groove.
The groove for the edge is ready.
Step 4
Step 4 Trimming the ends of the edge (photo on the left), flush grinding (photo on the right).
Ready.
The adjacent end can be pasted over with an edge, capturing the edge(photo on the right).
Use of a garden pruner.
It is convenient to cut the PVC edging with a garden pruner, which has one persistent (not sharp) cutter, the second is a working, sharpened one. The thrust cutter is thick and rounded enough so that, firstly, it does not injure decorative surface edging, and secondly, it is good to repeat its semicircular shape. The working cutter has a one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, this allows you to firmly press the cutter to the end of the chipboard and trim the edge flush in one motion, without subsequent sanding with sandpaper.
Small garden pruner for edge cutting 16 mm. To work with a wide 32mm edging, it is better to choose a larger model.
We firmly press the stop cutter against the semicircular surface of the edge, press the working blade with our finger against the end of the chipboard, and perform trimming.
High-quality cutting in one movement. With a certain skill and a sharply sharpened blade, very narrow strips of edging can be cut with secateurs.
Overlay edging.
Installation of the overlay edge does not require the use of power tools, the work is not dusty and can be done even at home, all you need is a knife and glue.It is necessary to prepare the inner surface of the edge, namely, to apply deep multidirectional scratches in order to improve the adhesion of the adhesive. Any sharp object is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, a hacksaw blade, etc. After the surface is scratched, an adhesive, for example, the well-proven “liquid nails”, must be applied to the inner surface of the edge. If there is a need for maximum protection against water penetration under the edge, then silicone sealant should be used instead of glue, applying it in excess.After applying the glue, the edging is sequentially put on the end of the part, leaving small allowances from the ends. Spilled adhesive must be removed immediately. If necessary, paper (painting) tape will help to temporarily fix the edge (for example, near curved sections). After the glue has dried (for " liquid nails"- day), trim the edge allowances flush. The need to wait for the glue to dry is the main inconvenience of using an overlay edging, compared to a mortise one.
Step 1. We scratch the wrong side of the edge.
Step 2 We apply glue "liquid nails".
Step 3 We put the edge on the end of the chipboard, remove the squeezed out excess glue.
Ready. The edge of the laminated chipboard is trimmed with PVC overlay edging.
Trimming of the ends is carried out after the glue has dried.
Some subtleties of working with edgingPVC.
- Priority in choosing should be given to edging, in which the color of the base is as close as possible to the color of the decor - outer coating. This will contribute to the invisibility of possible minor damage (scratches) to the edge.
- The size of the edges of the edging is different. Preference should be given to edging with a higher height of the sides, this will allow you to close very large chips in the laminate.
- The harder the edge, the stronger it is, the better it withstands impacts. As a rule, more expensive edges have more rigidity.
- The rigidity of the edge depends on the temperature in the room. It is recommended to fill the edging with room temperature. Work at low temperatures requires special attention behind the edge of the edge, it becomes rigid and can pick up (chough off) the edge of the laminate.
- Glue type "Liquid nails" and some others are critical to storage and curing temperatures. Adhesive manufacturer's recommendations must be strictly followed.
trimmed with piping PVC ends cabinet furniture acquire excellent operational, strength and decorative characteristics. The edging with sides, mounted using sealing compounds, is a reliable and probably the cheapest decorative means of protecting the ends of parts from water penetration, which helps to avoid chipboard swelling.
After cutting chipboard or chipboard on the part, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed for the following reasons:
- to give an aesthetic appearance to the workpiece (details);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
- protect the end surfaces of the workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
- protect the end surfaces from moisture ingress into the plates.
There are also cushioning edges (SOFT edges) used for children's furniture.
Consider some ways of sealing the end surfaces of the chipboard and line them up according to the rigidity of the end surface. The hardest surface will take first place.
FITTING EDGE (PVC)
In the sectional drawings we see several different edges.
To install them, you need a manual milling cutter
make a groove, along the entire length of the end, of the required width and depth.
The groove width is formed by a cutter,
after passing which, it should be 0.5 ... 0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6…10mm, depending on the length of the spike.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. We grind (grind) the edges of the chipboard end face with fine-grained sandpaper.
2. We will select a cutter desired thickness and diameter, set it in the center of the stud.
3. We mill the groove of the desired size.
4. PVA glue or "liquid nails", cover outer surface spike.
5. We carefully fill the edge with a rubber mallet until it fits snugly against the end surface.
6. Cut off the ends on both sides and finally align with the end surfaces.
KANT
Overhead plastic profile does not require the use of expensive tools. During operation, there is no noise and dust.
To install the profile, we will use glue and a knife.
1. Grind the end faces.
2. Lubricate the inner surface with liquid nails or silicone sealant.
3. We put the profile on the end of the chipboard.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant Let's wait for the glue to dry completely.
5. Cut off the ends and align them with the end surfaces.
On curved sections, the profile must be fixed, pressed against the end surface. This can be done with masking tape.
FURNITURE EDGE
Paper or plastic tape, which is glued to the open end of the chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4 ... 5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher its strength characteristics, therefore, the ends in hard-to-reach places are pasted over with a thin edge, and vice versa, the ends in easily accessible places are pasted over with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the plate, plus a processing allowance of 2 ... 3 mm.
1. Check the uniformity of the adhesive application on the inner surface.
2. Press to the end and heat with a hairdryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light stripes form, they can be repaired. furniture wax, stain or a solution of potassium permanganate.
Material classification:
- melamine edge ( paper strip, which is impregnated with carbamide (melamine) resins and varnished);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (ABS) (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).
We know how to choose the material, building fasteners, how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can proceed to self-manufacturing furniture that you yourself invented and designed.
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When choosing grooves on circular saw use a guide rail. This method is best suited for long longitudinal slots. In particular, in this way it is very convenient to make grooves for standard hollow holders. Once you have adjusted the guide bar and set the depth of cut, you can safely cut the grooves, being sure that everything longitudinal grooves will be at the same distance from the edges of the blanks.
On a woodcutting machine, you can also choose transverse grooves, but the longer the workpiece, the more inconvenient it is to work with it. It is usually more convenient to select transverse grooves in long panels with a milling machine. Procedure:
| Grooving without special cutting disc. Choose longitudinal and transverse grooves can be without special cutting disc. Install regular cutting disc woodworkingmachine to the desired height and make the first cut. Turning off machine, move guide 3.5 mm from the cutting blade, and then make the second cut. go on make successive cuts, each time pushing the guide back to 3.5 mm until you get the desired groove width. |
Selecting folds on a circular saw.
Selecting rebates on a circular saw is similar to selecting grooves, however you will need to provide the machine with an auxiliary wooden guide so that the cutting blade can move along it. Since a guide rail is used, this method is more suitable for picking folds in the long edges of workpieces than in the short edges of a long workpiece.Production and installation of an auxiliary guide.
Take 19 mm thick plywood as the material for the guide. The auxiliary guide should be the same length as the standard guide bar, and 10 centimeters higher. Fasten both rails with screws (refer to the "Operating Instructions" for recommendations). Install the cutting head and lower it below the surface of the machine table.
Auxiliary cut.
To fine-tune the cutting blade for the grooves, make a kerf in the secondary guide. With the cutting disc lowered under the table surface, move the guide so that it overhangs the head by approximately 16 mm and fix the guide. On the left side of the secondary rail, make a pencil mark 25mm above the desktop surface. Turn on the machine and slowly raise the cutting wheel until it reaches the level of the pencil mark.
Installation and adjustment of the cutting disc.
After attaching the slotting blade to the machine spindle, set it to the desired height and adjust the auxiliary guide to the desired rebate width.
False selection.
Select a test seam on a scrap piece of plywood to make sure your settings are correct. If everything is in order, place the workpiece on the work table and pass it over the cutting disc.
Selecting grooves with a manual milling cutter.
When you select a groove in the panel when making cabinet furniture, sometimes you need to select the corresponding groove in the opposite panel. To ensure that the opposite grooves match exactly, it is easiest to select them in one pass. This can be done with a simple rectangular guide, but it's worth taking the time to make your own custom T-guide for your cutter.
When selecting grooves with a cutter, it is very difficult to maintain the exact distance between the cutting edge and the rectangular guide. With a T-guide, you first select a groove in the cross member of the guide, and then simply align that groove with the scribe line on the workpiece. In this case, the angles between the grooves and the edges of the workpiece are completely straight. By selecting two slots on both sides of the crossbar, the guide can be used to select slots in workpieces of different widths.
Making a T-shaped guide.
To make the guide, two pieces of plywood 19 mm thick are needed. Make a cross member measuring 80 x 40 mm. The longitudinal rail should be 80mm wide and 80mm longer than the width of your desktop. Fasten both parts with three screws as shown in the picture.
When the glue is dry, paste in milling machine a straight cutter with a diameter that matches the desired slot width. While driving along the rail, select the groove on one side of the cross member. If you later need to select a different groove width, you can make a cut on the other side of the crossbar.
Choice of grooves.
Align the groove in the rail cross member with the markings on the workpiece. Support the workpiece on a stable work surface. Press both ends of the guide against the work surface. If the workpiece is narrower than working surface, you can press only one end of the guide against the work surface, as shown in the figure.
When selecting a slot, move the router from left to right so that the machine is between you and the rail.
Selecting folds with a manual milling cutter.
You can select the folds with a straight cutter using the guide. Another possibility is to purchase cutters that are specially designed for cutting seams. The best rebate cutters are equipped with bottom support rollers that roll easily over the workpiece and prevent charring of the edges of the wood. Cutters available for sale different sizes, as well as sets that include a cutter with a carbide cutting edge and interchangeable inserts that allow you to choose different sizes of folds.
Regardless of the technology you use, remember that the milling machine should always be moved in the opposite direction to the rotation of the cutter when operating. This will prevent dangerous rolling. cutting edge by preparation.
It's no secret that chipboard ends can be processed different materials, such as pvc edge, melamine edge, and, of course, pvc edging.
Let's talk about trimming chipboard with pvc edging. Methods depend directly on the variety facing material- mortise edging with or without girth, or laid on edging.
PVC mortise edge with girth:
Pvc mortise edging without girth:
PVC overlay:
You can read more about the types of flexible profile in this.
First of all, an important fact is the temperature in the room in which the work will take place, as well as at what temperature the profile was stored. Strong temperature fluctuations will affect the rigidity of the profile and the processing of the part.
PVC edge is produced directly under a certain thickness chipboard. At the corners of the part, the edging is not cut; for facing adjacent ends, the corner is smoothly rounded.
Perhaps the most commonly used mortise profile. T-shaped piping has a spike (leg), for which a groove is made at the end of the chipboard, coinciding with it in width and depth. This groove is made with milling machine or manual router. It is optimal if the cutter leaves a groove 0.5 mm wide and a tooth height of up to 2.8 mm.
Before making a groove for the edge with a cutter, it is necessary to grind the edges of the chipboard board so that when the edge of the edge is stuffed, no chips are formed on the laminate. Kant gets hammered rubber mallet, the extra ends of the edging that go beyond the chipboard are cut off with a knife or secateurs.
Can show a rather complicated process of edging. However, after watching the video below, you will see the opposite.
Furniture makers are constantly improving production. like this unusual way trimming was invented by furniture manufacturers:
AT this case a conventional pneumatic hammer with a nozzle was used, which was fixedly fixed on a workbench.
As you may have noticed, when using such a tool, the facing speed is much higher, which means higher productivity.
Using overhead (C-shaped) piping You don't need any power tools.
It is enough to have a knife and glue on hand.
To increase the adhesion of the adhesive, scratches are sometimes applied to the inner surface of the profile with a knife.
However, on inside The profile offered by our company already has the necessary "factory" transverse notches, which significantly improve adhesion.
After that, glue is applied to the inner surface of the edging, often using liquid nails. A slinkon sealant is perfect if you want to protect the chipboard from moisture as much as possible (for example, if bathroom furniture is made). Then the edging is sequentially put on chipboard end. The exposed adhesive is removed.
When processing curved sections, where the edge forms a bend, the already pasted profile is fixed with adhesive tape. Unlike the mortise edge, which you quickly and easily stuffed onto the part, when processing the overlay profile, it will take some time for the glue to dry.
Our company is pleased to manufacture and supply flexible profiles in various colors.
To order or select the profile of the decor you need, contact us in any way convenient for you.