I immediately apologize for the clumsiness of writing the review, this is, so to speak, a test of the pen in order to further describe more complex products. And so let's begin the description.
Neodymium magnets were purchased almost spontaneously (but the idea immediately arose in my head to make a useful thing for the kitchen), there are 50 pieces in the lot. thickness 1mm, diameter 8mm.
The seller packed the parcel in a standard yellow bag, the magnets were wrapped in several layers of bubble wrap.
The parcel took about 3 weeks to St. Petersburg.
Photos of magnets
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The magnets themselves fully correspond to the description on the seller’s page: 1mm thickness, 8mm diameter.
Due to the small thickness, the magnetization force of one magnet is quite small, but when they are all together, the force increases. If you put 2 magnets next to each other on a table, they are attracted from a distance of about 1 cm.
Actually, why did I buy them - to do this magnetic holder for knives, since there is very little space in the cutlery dryer, and besides, when you put a knife in the dryer, it touches the spoons of the fork and quickly becomes dull. Everyone will immediately scream - “why!!! buy a ready-made magnetic knife holder for pennies at Leroy, but this is not my option (although there are plenty of stores selling these things, including Leroy, within walking distance/automobile access).
For the base, a board from a fruit box was taken, the wood was beech, a very pleasant material with a simple pattern. Since this is a test of the pen, I didn’t bother too much with the selection of materials, I wanted to gain experience working with various materials, and how they behave together. To begin with, I measured the required length that needs to be obtained in finished product. Then I polished a part of the length of the board with an eccentric sander, starting with 100, since beech is a fairly hard type of wood at this point I spent enough time (about 4 minutes;))), then 320, and finally went through 1000. It turned out smooth surface with the same simple pattern. Then we saw off the required length of 290mm and clean the ends.
In the end this is what happened: 
I didn’t sand the back part much since no one will see it.
The next step was to choose a scheme for arranging the magnets, I chose the option of 3 rows in a checkerboard pattern, quite a nice option, although the quantity turned out to be more than 50 magnets, but from the last order I didn’t need them anywhere, I had a dozen of the same magnets left (as later there will be 3 rows it is not enough). I drew the entire diagram in Visio and printed it out, but then the question arose - how to transfer it to a board... I chose a completely abnormal option, glued the printed diagram with 2-sided tape and began poking the needle along the contour of the circles, marking the outline of the place where the magnets should be glued.
To get an even row, I pasted electrical tape along one side of the marks, the electrical tape was like a wall against which I leaned the magnets when gluing. 
Then everything was simple and tedious; you had to glue 54 magnets. I took all the magnets at once in a stack (it’s easier to hold), degreased the surface and started gluing them with superglue (in principle, any will do, but this is faster). When the last magnets remained, they began to “run away” to other magnets if they were accidentally released without having time to press them. All the rows turned out very evenly, except for the last ones which did not want to fall into place.
In this photo, a jamb was accidentally discovered; there was either dirt or traces of corrosion on the magnets, but everything was wiped off with alcohol and there was no need to peel it off. 
When all the magnets are in place. 
After this, everything needs to be filled with epoxy, firstly to firmly fix the magnets (superglue is still not so reliable), and secondly to prevent water from getting on the wood, and thirdly, when wetted with epoxy, the beech will become darker (here I also made a mistake - I thought that it would be much darker, but it turned out that when pouring the wood did not darken too much).
Ready kit before pouring 
Before pouring, I made a flange with thick gray tape, it stuck well and didn’t leak a bit, but on the back, the excess tape had to be cut off so that it could be laid flat. I didn’t cut it and then struggled with looking for a more or less even position. I used the most common epoxy (which was on hand). When I poured the epoxy and hardener, I didn’t take the scale, I did it by eye, and there was also a mistake - I didn’t add a little hardener and the surface of the epoxy after curing was stained and a little sticky. I mixed the epoxy in a small bowl and then poured it into plastic bag(this is my little trick). We take the bag and cut off a small corner so that the hole is about 1mm, through this hole we slowly pour the epoxy onto the board, trying not to get it on the magnets. Everything worked out, although I had to help level the epoxy with a stick. After pouring, 2 problems emerged - the first was stains on the surface of the epoxy and a slightly sticky surface, the second was a “hill” of epoxy near the trim. 
In principle, I don’t care about stains - not for sale, but the slide spoils appearance. I cut down the hill with a sanding machine, I couldn’t remove it completely, I couldn’t catch the angle, but more or less good view it turned out quite good. And checking the protruding surfaces above the magnets. 
All that remains is the penultimate step - gluing double-sided adhesive tape (Scotch) 
very good on silicone based It glues firmly, you can tear it off right away if you glued it incorrectly, but over time it sticks tightly, so I glued only 2 small pieces so that I could peel it off later. 
And the final photo at the site of permanent deployment.
But, as always, everything didn’t work out the way I wanted, since there are few magnets and they are thin (1mm), so they don’t have the strength to hold a thin and heavy knife. They hold the knife wide and heavy, but with a slight touch the knife begins to creep down.
Good luck to everyone with their crafts. 
It is important for manufacturers and private users to know how to glue neodymium magnets to different surfaces for maximum secure fixation. Only in this case it is possible to produce truly high-quality products, equipment or souvenirs. The main thing is to take into account the characteristics of the material and choose the appropriate glue for the magnet. In this case, almost any surface turns out to be suitable for gluing a neodymium magnet.
How to glue a magnet to metal
To answer the question of how you can glue a magnet to metal, you should take into account the specifics of such connections. In particular, neodymium magnets are protected by a nickel-plated coating, which means that adhesive should be chosen for metal surfaces. Given that the connection must withstand severe stress and vibration, it is important to pay due attention to surface preparation. Before sticking a magnet to metal, the target surface should be thoroughly cleaned using alcohol or another suitable solvent. Then apply a quality thermoplastic or epoxy glue "Moment" . Another popular option is universal glue "Econ".
How to glue a magnet to wood
The main task to be solved when making carved or painted magnetic souvenirs is to decide what to use to glue the magnet to the tree. Essentially, as in the situation with metal surface, can be used different kinds glue. The main thing is to properly prepare the surface, removing dust, shavings, grease and any contaminants. Before gluing the magnet to the wood, it is advisable to remove any unevenness at the joint using a file or sandpaper. After cleaning the surfaces, apply universal superglue “Moment”. This cyanoacrylate-based compound will reliably hold surfaces even when exposed to moisture or exposure to low temperatures. If it is necessary to ensure increased adhesion strength, then optimal solution– buy high-quality two-component epoxy adhesive Moment.
How to glue a magnet to plastic
Don't know how to glue a magnet to plastic? Almost any universal adhesive compositions. Just be sure to use a solvent when preparing the surface. Simply apply acetone to a cotton pad and wipe the joints. Treat the surface thoroughly before gluing the magnet to the plastic, and then carefully apply epoxy glue or superglue.
The simplest solution is self-adhesive magnets
If you need to glue a small ceramic, plastic or wooden product, then buy self-adhesive magnets. They attract with simplicity and ease of use. In the assortment of the World of Magnets online store you will find a wide variety of magnets for every taste, including self-adhesive neodymium magnets. Choose suitable products and place an order at favorable wholesale and retail prices.
You will need
- - magnet
- - “Moment universal” glue
- - sandpaper or nail file (grit 80)
- - double sided tape
- - alcohol, acetone or solvent
- - cotton pad
Instructions
Carefully prepare the surface to which you want to glue the magnet. If it is plaster (alabaster), remove all irregularities and protruding nicks. Do this using fine sandpaper ( sandpaper) or artificial nail files (grit 80). Move only in one direction - moving back and forth may crack the plaster. When a magnet needs to be glued to wood or plastic, clean the surface. Apply a small amount of alcohol/acetone/solvent to a cotton pad and wipe with it required space. Let it dry on its own. Do the same with the magnet (if you glue it with glue).
When a magnet needs to be glued to wood or plastic, clean the surface. Apply a small amount of alcohol/acetone/solvent to a cotton pad and wipe the desired area with it. Let it dry on its own. Do the same with the magnet (if you glue it with glue).
To attach a self-adhesive magnet, cut a piece to the required length. Remember that with this type of gluing the product must be very light. For example, a small refrigerator magnet or a photograph. Remove protective film from the magnetic strip, press it to the prepared place on the product. Hold for a few seconds.
Thin magnetic tape is also designed for gluing to lightweight flat products. There is no self-adhesive layer on it, so depending on your needs, you can use either double-sided tape or glue. If you choose glue, apply a thin stripe in a wavy line from the beginning to the end of the magnet. Do not apply directly to the product, hold it in the air for 10-15 seconds. Press firmly onto the prepared area. Wait another 20-30 seconds. Do not use the product immediately, preferably the next day.
For heavy products made of wood or plastic, conventional ones are used. They can be of different thickness and shape. To glue such a magnet, first clean the surfaces of dust, grease and dirt. Apply a little glue like on the surface of a magnet. If you have a precise location on the product, you can apply glue to it.
Do not apply immediately, let the glue set on the surface a little, about 15 seconds. Attach the magnet to the product, press firmly. Hold this for 30 seconds. If the product is not fragile, then place something heavy on top for a day. best result fastening. After the time has passed, carefully lift the press and check that the magnet is firmly seated.
When you want to decorate magnetic board or refrigerator door, irreplaceable magnets always come to mind. There is so much warmth and tenderness in something made with your own hands. If you have a blank, a favorite photo or a creative poster for decoration, then all you need to do is glue a magnet.
You will need
- - magnet
- - “Moment universal” glue
- - sandpaper or nail file (grit 80)
- - double sided tape
- - alcohol, acetone or solvent
- - cotton pad
Instructions
- Carefully prepare the surface to which you want to glue the magnet. If it is plaster (alabaster), remove all irregularities and protruding nicks. Do this using fine sandpaper or an artificial nail file (grit 80). Move only in one direction - moving back and forth may crack the plaster. When a magnet needs to be glued to wood or plastic, clean the surface. Apply a small amount of alcohol/acetone/solvent to a cotton pad and wipe the desired area with it. Let it dry on its own. Do the same with the magnet (if you glue it with glue).
- When a magnet needs to be glued to wood or plastic, clean the surface. Apply a small amount of alcohol/acetone/solvent to a cotton pad and wipe the desired area with it. Let it dry on its own. Do the same with the magnet (if you glue it with glue).
- To attach a self-adhesive magnet, cut a piece to the required length. Remember that with this type of gluing the product must be very light. For example, a small refrigerator magnet or a photograph. Remove the protective film from the magnetic strip and press it to the prepared area on the product. Hold for a few seconds.
- Thin magnetic tape is also designed for gluing to lightweight flat products. There is no self-adhesive layer on it, so depending on your needs, you can use either double-sided tape or glue. If you choose glue, apply a thin stripe in a wavy line from the beginning to the end of the magnet. Do not apply directly to the product, hold it in the air for 10-15 seconds. Press firmly onto the prepared area. Wait another 20-30 seconds. Do not use the product immediately, preferably the next day.
- For heavy items made of wood or plastic, conventional magnets are used. They can be of different thickness and shape. To glue such a magnet, first clean the surfaces of dust, grease and dirt. Apply a little glue like on the surface of a magnet. If you have a precise location on the product, you can apply glue to it.
- Do not apply immediately, let the glue set on the surface a little, about 15 seconds. Attach the magnet to the product, press firmly. Hold this for 30 seconds. If the product is not fragile, then place something heavy on top for a day for a better fixing result. After the time has passed, carefully lift the press and check that the magnet is firmly seated.