What is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a house? Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof - selection of materials and installation schemes

Houses made of rounded wood or natural timber are rightfully considered the most comfortable. Their high popularity is explained, first of all, by the naturalness of the material and good protective characteristics.

But for all kinds one-story buildings Characterized by significant losses through ceiling structures. Therefore, you have to fight for warmth and comfort in a wooden private house. The correctly chosen method and a well-thought-out insulation scheme are the main components of success in this fight.

Methods of thermal insulation of wooden ceiling structures

Numerous technologies in wooden houses are divided into two groups according to the location of insulation installation:

• from the side of residential premises (from the inside);
• from the attic (outside).

Both approaches have their advantages and disadvantages. Thus, insulating the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside will save money, but will reduce the useful volume of living quarters, and insulation installed outside will require additional protection from mechanical damage and more powerful hydro- and vapor barrier, which will entail an increase in insulation costs.

IN classic version The thermal insulation layer has the following structure:

• external steam and waterproofing;
• insulation material;
• sheathing;
• internal vapor barrier;
• sheathing

How to insulate the ceiling?

All materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are divided into three groups:

• bulk;
• soft;
• solid.

The first group is used only for external insulation. The other two are used in both methods.
The most popular representatives of each group, respectively, are:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

The most in a simple way insulation is finishing the ceiling from the inside with foam plastic. Its advantages include:

• relatively low cost of material;
• light weight;
• unique steam and moisture repellent properties;
• ease of installation;
• environmental friendliness.

Stages of work

First, a waterproofing layer is attached to the suspended ceiling between the beams. You can use glassine for this, plastic film.

Foam boards are attached on top of the waterproofing using special glue. After applying the adhesive to the insulation, you should wait 1 - 2 minutes and press it tightly to the ceiling. The slabs are mounted end-to-end. If there are gaps between heat-insulating products, they are sealed polyurethane foam. It is better to additionally fix the insulation on the surface using self-tapping screws with washers of large diameter (10-14 mm).

After installing the slabs, lay a layer of glassine or other vapor barrier material. The whole process is completed by cladding and decorative finishing of the ceiling structures.

Modern industry produces foam sheets different colors and textures. The front surface may contain an abstract pattern, which, if chosen correctly, will enrich the interior of the room.

Sawdust

Wood chips are natural material and have proven themselves well for thermal protection wooden houses. This technology is somewhat more complicated than gluing with foam plastic. The main difficulty lies in the preparation, or more precisely, the manufacture of insulation, which is a cement-sawdust mixture.

Preparation of the composition

It is better to use medium-sized shavings. Thyrsa is not suitable for insulation. Its volume contains very little air. The sawdust should not be fresh. The raw materials are treated with antiseptic and antifungal compounds. The most simple solution this task is soaking wood shavings in a solution of copper sulfate, after which it should be thoroughly dried.

The required volume of sawdust is equal to the planned volume of the insulating layer, the recommended thickness of which is 20 centimeters.

The process of preparing a cement-sawdust mixture consists of the following steps:

• in a spacious container (a trough with sides 25-30 cm), prepare “cement milk” by mixing water with cement in a ratio of ten to one, and mix thoroughly;
• Sawdust is added to the resulting mixture, which during the mixing process should be evenly covered with a layer of solution.

Surface preparation

Before you begin making insulation, you should prepare the area for its application. This preparation includes the following:

• dismantling the attic floor;
• cleaning the space between the joists from debris and other foreign objects;
• processing of all available designs wooden floor antifungal and antiseptic agents;
• laying a vapor barrier carpet (as insulation, you can use thick polyethylene film overlapped on the joists).

Application of insulating composition

Next, the prepared cement-sawdust mixture is scattered over the floor area and lightly compacted. The insulation must be evenly distributed between the floor joists. After complete drying, the resulting coating can be walked on.

One of the main advantages of this method of ceiling insulation is the low cost of materials. First of all, this concerns sawdust, which, with some effort, can be purchased for free.

Mineral wool

A popular method of insulating a wooden ceiling is using mineral wool. In terms of its thermal insulation characteristics, this material is superior to polystyrene foam. The installation process is relatively simple.

Vapor barrier layer

A vapor barrier is laid on the outer surface of the ceiling, freed from the coating and cleared of debris and foreign objects. As with sawdust, thick plastic film will do.

Install it with an overlap of about 10 cm. The seams are taped.

Installation of insulation

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and rolls. When using rolled material, the cotton wool is unrolled along the beams.

The second layer of insulation is laid in the opposite direction, covering the beams and joint areas.

For additional fixation of insulation strips, you can use nails, the heads of which should be slightly “recessed” into the upper layer material.

Waterproofing

One of the few disadvantages of mineral wool, but quite significant, is its hygroscopicity. It is very easily saturated with moisture, which has an extremely negative effect on its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the insulation layer must have reliable external waterproofing.

Lay it on top of the mineral wool, overlapping it and gluing the seams.

Finishing layer

If the attic is not in use, then on top of the insulating structure you can install cement-sand screed. When arranging residential attics, floor boards or laminate are installed.

Insulating the ceiling of a private house is relatively simple technological process. Performing these works does not require special skills. With the desire and knowledge of the main technological aspects, everyone is able to cope with this task independently.

December 27, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

No matter how much effort we make to insulate the walls and floor of our home, a huge part of the loss of thermal energy occurs in the upper part of the room. Therefore, it’s time to talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today I will tell you what is the best way to insulate an attic. beam floor in a wooden house, and I will also describe in detail the technology for laying thermal insulation material inside a country house. The article presents the most effective, in my opinion, scheme, when a vapor barrier membrane is installed on the inside, and the main insulation on the outside. But about everything in due time.

Selecting material for work

To begin with, I want to figure out with you how you can insulate a ceiling constructed using floor beams. If you study the advice of professional heating engineers, you will see that each of them offers different materials: expanded clay, polystyrene foam, perlite, polyurethane foam, and so on.

But out of all the variety thermal insulation materials To insulate a wooden ceiling, I suggest using basalt wool. In my opinion this is the best choice, if you are deciding how to insulate the ceiling along the joists from the outside. To confirm this, I cite the most important specifications this material.

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The thermal conductivity coefficient of basalt wool is approximately 0.035 W/(m*K). Therefore, for effective thermal insulation, it is enough to use a layer 10 cm thick. That is, the insulation boards will just fit into the gaps between the support beams.
High vapor permeability	The vapor permeability coefficient of the described insulation with a density of 50 kg per m3 is 0.6 mg/(m*h*Pa), which is greater than that of wood. Consequently, the thermal insulation layer will not prevent air infiltration through the walls; moisture will evaporate from the floor beams. This will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house and on the integrity of the building envelope.
Low hygroscopicity	In direct contact with liquid, the material absorbs no more than 2% of its own volume of moisture. That is, if water gets on the ceiling (ceiling on the reverse side) due to a leaking roof, the liquid will not reduce the performance characteristics of the heat-protective layer.
High fire safety	According to the current classification building materials basalt mats belong to the NG category. The insulation does not ignite under the influence of an open flame, does not contribute to the spread of fire and does not emit toxic smoke. This is very important for a home built of wood.
High sound insulation	The open structure of mineral mats (as opposed to foam) contributes to very effective absorption of sound waves of structural and airborne origin. Using basalt insulation to insulate the ceiling, the inhabitants of the upper and lower floors will not hear each other’s conversation, and people below will not suffer from the noise of furniture being moved upstairs and careless steps.
Biological neutrality	The insulation has antiseptic properties; mold, mildew and other microorganisms do not form on its surface and inside. As a result, wooden floor beams will be reliably protected from rot, which will extend their service life.
Ease	The insulation is a porous material and is therefore lightweight. The thermal insulation layer on the ceiling (even taking into account additional hydro- and vapor barrier membranes) will not place a large load on the floor beams, load-bearing walls and foundation.
Easy to install	All work on the installation of basalt insulation is carried out manually. For this you do not need compressors and other mechanisms (as is the case with polyurethane foam). In addition, its use eliminates the use of “wet” construction processes, so you can carry out work even at sub-zero air temperatures.
Long service life	Basalt mats will retain their original technical characteristics for as long as the ceiling beams themselves. At the same time, the insulation does not shrink, forming islands of cold and reducing the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

A small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey is the high price of insulation. However, taking into account all the performance characteristics listed above, I believe that this is the best material for thermal insulation of the ceiling in a frame or timber house outside.

For the work I will use basalt wool slabs produced by Knauf Insulation TeploKrovlya Expert. They are cut into pieces measuring 1200 by 610 mm, that is, with a distance between the beams of 600 mm, the insulation will fit end to end without forming gaps. The thickness of the material is 50 mm, since I will be laying it in two layers with alternating joints. One package is enough for 18.3 m2 of surface (but keep in mind that you will have to lay it in two layers).

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling. However, in addition to mineral mats, you will also need other materials with tools. I will list them in the next section.

Required tools and materials

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to stock up on other materials:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. This polymer film prevents water vapor generated in the room as a result of human activity from penetrating into the insulation, causing it to become wet. It is better not to use impermeable films, as all the benefits of “breathable” mineral wool are lost. An excellent manufacturer of vapor barrier membranes is Juta.

1. Waterproofing film. A waterproof membrane that protects the insulating layer from moisture as a result of water getting inside the insulating pie due to a leaky roof or for other subjective reasons.

1. Plywood. I will use it to hem the floor beams from below, that is, glued veneer sheets will support the mineral mats between the rafters. Instead of plywood, you can use boards, gypsum boards, gypsum boards, lining and other similar materials. The thickness of the sheets is 10 mm, the brand is ordinary FK (moisture-resistant FSF can be used, but it has a higher level of formaldehyde emissions).
2. Polyurethane adhesive for insulation. Sold in cans, applied using mounting gun. It is needed only to, if necessary, seal the joints of thermal insulation sheets. Since I have everything calculated exactly, and the mineral wool is laid in two layers, there is practically no need to use foam.
3. Wooden blocks with a section of 5 by 5 cm. They are useful for installing counter-lattice on the outside of the ceiling, since a ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the decorative material on top to remove moisture. Choose high-quality lumber, the dimensions of which are the same along the entire length, otherwise you will not be able to make a flat floor.
4. Grooved board. The attic space above the ceiling in my case will be used as residential attic. Therefore, I will make the floor (that is, the ceiling on the reverse side) strong and reliable from tongue-and-groove boards. If you just have an attic there, you can limit yourself to plywood.
5. Fire-retardant impregnation for wood. This substance will need to be used to treat the floor beams and bars used for installing the sheathing. Liquid will increase fire safety wooden structure, will destroy microorganisms and protect enclosing structures from biocorrosion. You can use, for example, Bastion liquid, which, among other things, has hydrophobic properties.

As for tools, the main ones are a screwdriver for tightening screws, a stapler for securing films, and a saw for cutting plywood and foam plastic. Everything else is an ordinary set of locksmith tools, available in the arsenal of even a novice specialist.

Well, now it’s time to move on to the story of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house.

Insulation technology

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling in a private house is carried out in several steps. All of them are shown in the diagram below.

I will try to describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Floor preparation

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house begins with preparing the ceiling, which in my case is a set of load-bearing beams (made of bars with a cross-section of 50 by 100 mm), installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I am processing load-bearing beams. Several important problems need to be solved at once:
   • Check the integrity of structural elements, remove damaged areas and replace defective fragments. If the beams are not new, they need to be cleaned of mold and mildew sandpaper And grinder. Damaged areas are cut out and replaced with new fragments, and I recommend that heavily worn beams be completely replaced with new ones. Otherwise, the service life of the insulated ceiling will not be very long.

• Treat beams with fire protection. To do this, the antiseptic primer composition you have chosen is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the packaging, after which it is coated with it. load-bearing beams ceiling. It is best to work with a brush, carefully rubbing the fire protection into wooden surface(it should be well soaked).

1. Carrying out installation engineering communications in the ceiling. Most often (as in my case) it is three individual systems– ventilation, electricity and passage chimney. Each has small features:
   • I recommend insulating ventilation pipes (made of thin-walled metal or plastic) with cylinders of foamed polyethylene or mineral mats. This will improve the efficiency of the system and reduce the noise generated by the air flow.

• Electrical wires in the ceiling wooden house(if you prefer hidden wiring) must be carried out in special metal or plastic fireproof channels. The latter prevent the ignition of the ceiling and the further spread of fire in the event of a short circuit.

• The intersection of the chimney pipe and the ceiling of a wooden house must be carefully protected with non-flammable fireproof material. I made a square box out of tin, which I mounted into the ceiling. Then the inside of the box was covered with expanded clay, which prevented contact hot pipe with boards and plywood ceiling.

Having completed the preparation wooden supports ceiling, you can go down into living rooms, because further work will be carried out from inside the house.

Indoor work

From the lower part of the ceiling, we need to solve two problems - to exclude the moistening of the mineral mats by water vapor dissolved in the air and to provide reliable support for basalt fiber slabs (the procedure for installing them is described in the next section).

Therefore, the work flow will be as follows:

1. I attach a vapor barrier membrane to the floor beams. For this, as you already know, Juta vapor barrier film is used. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • I roll out the first roll of insulating membrane, then secure it to the bottom of the beams using a staple gun and staples. There is no need to tighten it too much, especially if the work is carried out in the warm season. The film should sag by 1 cm every meter. In this case, after cooling (in winter), it will not tear.

• The second and subsequent rolls of the vapor barrier layer must be secured so that their edges form an overlap of 10 cm wide. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints.
• After treating the entire ceiling, the joints of individual sheets must be taped with adhesive tape. The end result should be a picture similar to the one shown in this photograph.

1. I am installing the counter-lattice bars. With their help, a ventilation gap is formed between the film and the decorative material (in my case), which will help remove moisture concentrated there.
   • The lumber that I will use for work is pre-treated with a fire retardant and an antiseptic (in one bottle). It's better to do it on outdoors and bring it inside after protective composition will be completely absorbed into the surface and dry.

• Directly through the vapor barrier membrane, using self-tapping screws, I screw the bars to the supporting floor joists so that the parts are located perpendicular to each other. The distance between adjacent elements is about 40 cm. Thus, the beams will form a gap and serve as a support for the mineral wool insulation slabs laid in the sphere.

• Between individual bars, as well as near the walls, it is necessary to make gaps 3-5 mm wide, which are necessary to compensate for possible thermal expansion of the bars.

1. I hem the ceiling from below with sheets of birch plywood. I use this material because of the features of the subsequent decorative finishing. However, you can replace it with other suitable sheet or slatt products. The plywood installation diagram is as follows:
   • I cut the sheets of material into parts of the required sizes so that after attaching the counter-lattice to the beams, there will be a gap between the wall and the plywood. Through it, condensed moisture will be removed from the air gap.

• I secure the plywood to the sheathing bars. Black self-tapping screws, which are protected from corrosion, are perfect for this. The distance between the screws is 20 cm. They need to be screwed in along the edges of the plywood sheets and in the middle, pulling the material towards the supporting elements. There should be a distance of several millimeters between the plywood sheets to compensate for thermal expansion.

After this, you can finish the work inside the living space and move to the attic, where the insulation will be laid.

Work in the attic

To Work with outside the attic floor is much easier than the internal one. The fact is that in this case you will not have to come up with various tricks to secure the mineral mats. They are easy and simple to lay on a horizontal surface and do not sag.

The detailed scheme of work looks like this:

1. I lay mineral mats between the floor joists. This is done like this:
   • Basalt fiber slabs are cut to fit required sizes. For me, the distance between the logs is exactly equal to the width of the slab minus 1 cm (the slab is 61 cm, the beams are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other). That is, the thermal insulation will be destroyed without the formation of cold bridges. If you need to adjust the dimensions, I recommend using a fine-tooth file or a sharp utility knife with interchangeable blades.

• The first layer of insulation is laid on a vapor barrier film and counter-lattice bars fixed to the lower plane of the ceiling. Need to fit as closely as possible thermal insulation mats to each other so that cold bridges do not form along the seams. Then the second layer is placed on top so that the spaces are interspersed with an offset of 15-20 cm relative to each other.

• The seams between mineral wool slabs can be foamed with polyurethane foam adhesive. It glues the insulation fibers together and forms a homogeneous thermal insulation layer, eliminating unproductive losses of thermal energy.

1. I am installing a waterproofing membrane. You need to use a special polymer film, not ordinary polyethylene. The latter stops air infiltration through the ceiling, which negates all the advantages of using wood, mineral wool and other “breathable” materials. The scheme is as follows:
   • The membrane is rolled out over the insulation so that the edges of one roll are located on the edges of the other, forming an overlap 10 cm wide.

• After this, the film is secured to the wooden parts using staples and a construction stapler. There is no need to stretch the material too much to prevent it from tearing in winter. But there is no need to leave much slack, otherwise the polymer film will rustle during operation.
• The joints of adjacent elements of the waterproof layer are sealed using adhesive tape. The film must form an impermeable layer to prevent water from entering the surface of the basalt mats.
• The film should lie on the surface of the basalt insulation. If its thickness is not enough to fill the vertical space between the beams, then the membrane must be lowered down and secured to the side surfaces of the supporting elements using wooden blocks.

1. I screw the counter-lattice bars to the beams. It is necessary when you are going to lay decorative material on top (in my case, a slatted board for the floor in the attic). This is done like this:
   • Wooden beams with a cross-section of 5 by 5 cm are screwed onto the beams on top of the waterproofing. They must be placed perpendicular to the direction in which the boards will be laid. You can secure the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
   • To prevent warping of the coating, I recommend not installing the bars close to the attic walls or to each other. Small seams a few millimeters wide will help compensate thermal expansion material.
2. I lay a tongue and groove board on top. I took exactly this material

At this point, the process of insulating the ceiling can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house using mineral wool. But there are other, cheaper ways of insulation. Instructions on how to use expanded clay for this purpose are presented in the video in this article. And you can read about how to insulate a wooden ceiling from the inside (if there is no access to it from the attic) in my other articles on this site.

You can leave your opinion on the information presented in the material in the comments below.

In this article, I will tell you in detail how to insulate the ceiling in a private house yourself, what is the best way to insulate this part of the house, and where treacherous pitfalls await you. Saving heat in any home is an extremely important task, and in a private home it is especially acute, since there is no heated room above and you need to think about everything yourself.

A warm ceiling is the key to maintaining heat in the house.

Choosing insulation

First, let's look at the question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today the market offers 3 types of material suitable for do-it-yourself ceiling insulation:

1. Bulk insulation – expanded clay, vermiculite, ecowool, sawdust and coal slag;
2. Rolled insulation – linen mats, glass wool and mineral wool, which in turn is divided into soft mats made of slag wool, basalt wool, as well as “Isover” and “Ursa”;

1. Slab insulation - presented in three categories. These are high density mineral wool boards, natural cork and styrene-based boards (foam and extruded polystyrene foam).

There is also self-leveling thermal insulation. In this niche, polyurethane foam and penoizol are widely used. But we will not touch them, since it is unrealistic to equip such insulation with our own hands. They require expensive special equipment and professional skills, but now we are talking about independent installation.

Bulk insulation

The most famous and affordable insulation from mass-produced materials is expanded clay. Each of us has seen light, durable, round brown granules; this is the same expanded clay.

It is made from a special type of clay, brought to a boil, and then cooled. The technology has long been known and quite simple, so the price of expanded clay is quite reasonable, now it fluctuates around 1000 rubles per 1 m³.

The thermal insulation characteristics of expanded clay are average, so for good result a layer of at least 200 mm is required. One of the advantages is high strength; this material can easily withstand concrete screed.

But at the same time, expanded clay is afraid of moisture and, compared to its competitors, has quite a decent weight. Accordingly, to insulate with expanded clay, you need to have a durable ceiling.

Vermiculite is a rock from the same family as mica. After firing, the material becomes porous and retains heat well. Vermiculite is not afraid of humidity. As for weight, it is lighter than expanded clay, but heavier than the same mineral wool.

In my opinion, of all the bulk insulation materials currently available, vermiculite is the best option. It does not burn, does not get wet, does not cake and allows air to pass through, which makes it possible to use vermiculite for insulating ceilings in both block and wooden ceilings.

Ecowool, which recently appeared on the market, is a product of recycling waste paper. To prevent cotton wool from burning, borax is added to it. It, of course, absorbs moisture, but not as much as mineral wool.

Unlike the two previous options, ecowool shrinks, but only slightly, about 15%. But this is perhaps the most lightweight material, the weight of such insulation can withstand any ceiling.

Next we have “folk” thermal insulation - coal slag and sawdust. To be honest, compared to factory options, the only undeniable advantage of folk insulation is the free price.

The weight and thermal conductivity of coal slag is equal to expanded clay, and accordingly it will have to be poured at least 200 mm deep. But slag produces a lot of dust and dirt, plus it is capable of collecting moisture.

Sawdust will also cost a penny, but there are nuances here. The material must be kept in a dry room for at least a year. Plus, to protect sawdust from rodents and fungi, they need to be mixed with slaked lime fluff in a ratio of 10:2 (sawdust/fluff). In addition, you can make insulating blocks from sawdust, but I will talk about this technology a little later.

I think you understand that insulating the ceiling in a private house with bulk materials can only be done from the attic side. Step-by-step instruction the technique of such insulation will be given in the corresponding chapter, but for now let’s move on to rolled materials.

Roll materials

May the manufacturers of “Ursa”, “Isover”, glass wool and other soft insulating mats forgive me, but I am absolutely disappointed in this material. At the beginning of the 2000s, I insulated the ceiling in the country house and in the garage with such mats. I didn’t take glass wool, I spent money on Ursa, but as it turned out, the result was the same.

No more than 5 - 7 years passed and in the dacha ceiling what was not trampled by mice shrunk on its own and the insulation began to look like an old blanket. There was practically no sense from it and everything had to be done again.

If someone decides to purchase and install soft mats, keep in mind: to work with such materials you need to buy a good, thick overall, a respirator, gloves and goggles. Dust with small particles of glass is very dangerous for mucous membranes and skin.

Linen mats are purely Russian know-how. Our people finally remembered that in Rus' houses were always insulated with flax, moss, hemp and other similar materials. In appearance, linen mats somewhat resemble mineral wool.

They can even absorb moisture, but after drying, unlike cotton wool, the volume of linen mats is restored. I don’t know what they are impregnated with, but mice do not live in this insulation and it does not support combustion.

Plus, there is no harmful dust with glass particles, which means there is no need to protect yourself so radically. As for manufacturers, the most famous are Termolen, Ecoteplin and Ecoterm. The price depends only on the manufacturer’s ambitions and transportation overhead costs.

Slab insulation

Slab insulation is a universal thing. It is suitable both for insulating the ceiling from the outside and for insulating suspended ceiling from the inside. The choice here depends on what your house is built from and the type of room.

For wooden houses, as well as for insulating floors in the kitchen or steam room, mineral wool basalt slabs with a density of 100 kg/m³ or more are more suitable. They, of course, absorb moisture, but if you wrap them in a vapor barrier, they hold their shape quite well and for a long time. By the way, the higher the density, the longer the thermal insulation will last.

If you need to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a block house with reinforced concrete floor slabs, then I recommend taking inexpensive PSB-S25 foam plastic.

Extruded polystyrene foam is a good thing, but it is 2 - 3 times more expensive than polystyrene foam and it makes sense to spend money on it only if you want to pour a reinforced concrete screed on the side of the attic floor. The same Penoplex (manufacturer of extruded polystyrene foam) will perfectly withstand such weight.

Extruded polystyrene foam is considered an absolute waterproofer. Although polystyrene foam is vapor-permeable, its coefficient is so small that it can be ignored.

This is why such slabs in wooden houses must be installed very carefully, so as not to clog the wood in the waterproofing, where it will begin to deteriorate.

Styrene-based boards have a common disadvantage: at temperatures above 70 ºС they begin to decompose and release harmful carcinogens.

And if in an ordinary living room warm air simply accumulates under the ceiling, then in the kitchen, and even more so in the steam room, this air is already hot. That is why neither polystyrene foam nor its extruded counterpart are installed from the inside in such rooms.

As for cork, this environmentally friendly and very effective insulation costs incredible amounts of money. And to be honest, those people who can afford such luxury are unlikely to glue it to the ceiling with their own hands.

In addition, there is an option to make slabs from sawdust yourself. After disappointment with soft cotton mats, I insulated the ceiling at the dacha homemade slabs from sawdust. The instructions and the recipe itself are available to everyone, plus the cost of this material is cheap.

To 10 parts of dry aged sawdust, add 1 part of M500 cement and 1 part of slaked fluff lime. All this is mixed in a concrete mixer until dry, after which water is added, about 2 parts and mixed again.

According to the instructions, add boric acid or copper sulfate, but at one time I was advised to dissolve gelatin in water instead of boric acid. WITH boric acid After hardening, the slabs become brittle, and gelatin acts as an elastic binder.

This solution can be poured into homemade molds, then you will get slabs with clear dimensions. Or fill it directly between the joists from the attic side. In this case, you will get the same slab, only large and monolithic, with a tight fit to all contact surfaces.

Ceiling insulation equipment

Now let's talk about how to make the ceiling in a private house warm. There are 2 arrangement options. This is insulation of the ceiling from the outside, that is, from the attic side, and insulation of the ceiling from the inside, from the side of the rooms.

Internal installation

Insulating the ceiling from the inside is, frankly speaking, not the best option. Firstly, it is not suitable for rooms with low ceilings. After all, in the very best case scenario your ceiling will drop by 50 - 70 mm, and in the cold regions of our vast homeland, the insulation will take 150 - 200 mm.

Secondly, you will have to work using various kinds a scaffold and stepladders, which in itself is already quite difficult.

And then, no matter how thick and high-quality insulation you haven’t chosen, and the floor structures in the cold attic will freeze in any case. But mice certainly won’t get to your insulation from the inside.

In theory, the insulation technique is not complicated. This is often how reinforced concrete floor slabs are insulated. Although no one is stopping you from attaching insulation boards to a wooden ceiling.

As you understand, in this case only slab material is suitable for us.

If you happen to insulate reinforced concrete floor slabs, then first of all you need to check how well the round cavities inside these slabs are sealed. If you haven’t installed the plugs, make them yourself. Sprinkle polyurethane foam along the edge, and when it hardens, cut off the excess and seal the holes with cement-sand mortar.

• As far as I have come across, the minimum for polystyrene foam is 50 mm, for extruded polystyrene foam 30 mm, and for high-density mineral wool boards 100 mm. The insulation boards are glued to the ceiling with construction adhesive and additionally fixed to it with umbrella dowels, at least 5 fixation points per 1 m²;
• For styrene-based boards, I use Ceresit CT83 construction adhesive; it was originally developed specifically for this material. And dense basalt slabs can be glued to almost any tile adhesive;

• All elements are glued apart. That is, according to the principle brickwork, with a shift between rows. Although the glue holds well, the insulation needs to be additionally fixed while hanging. To do this, directly through the insulation layer, we drill through “blind” holes in the ceiling to a depth of 50 mm. Next, we drive the umbrella dowel into them and hammer the central spacer rod into this umbrella;
• If we talk exclusively about insulation, then this is enough. But such a ceiling will look, to put it mildly, mediocre. Therefore, even before starting work, you need to think about how you will attach the finishing cladding;

• There are 2 exits and both are quite simple. You can take wooden blocks slightly thicker than insulation and secure them with anchors to the ceiling. The step between the guides should not exceed 70 cm. After that, insulation is installed between the bars. The method is fast, but it is suitable for smooth horizontal planes. If any of the corners is heavily blocked, you will have to put wedges under the bars, and this is time-consuming and inconvenient;

• For curved ceilings there is another, no less simple way. The same markings are made on the ceiling as for the installation of wooden blocks. After this, along lines with increments of about a meter, metal hangers are attached and the “wings” in them are immediately bent down. Next, insulation is glued to the ceiling, and holes are cut in the slabs with a knife under the bent down wings of the hangers.
  When the insulation is installed, either wooden planks or ceiling CD profiles for plasterboard are attached to the hangers strictly horizontally, checking for planeness.

By the way, in order to glue the insulation to the reinforced concrete floor slab from below, this slab must be clean and primed. So if your ceiling is whitewashed, then you will need to wash off the whitewash and go over it with soil a couple of times deep penetration, for example, concrete contact.

External insulation of ceilings through the attic

Insulating the ceiling from the outside is much simpler and more effective than the option described above.

True, the arrangement of reinforced concrete floor slabs and wooden structures is somewhat different:

• When you are dealing with a reinforced concrete slab, you can do two things. First, the slab is covered with a waterproofing film; the cheapest option is to use technical polyethylene. Although some people lay foil-foamed polyethylene foam (penofol) and seal the joints with foil tape. This is relevant for wooden structures, but I personally don’t see much point in covering concrete with penofol;

• For bulk materials in which the filling thickness starts from 150 mm, mounted wooden joists so that the depth of the cells is about 200 mm. Expanded clay, vermiculite, coal slag and sawdust are simply poured between the joists;
• But with ecowool you will have to tinker a little more. This material is poured out of the bag, after which it is fluffed using a construction mixer or an electric drill with a mixing attachment. As a result, the insulation increases in volume by approximately 3-4 times;

• In addition, expanded clay, vermiculite and coal slag are hard materials and they practically do not shrink. While sawdust and ecowool need to be poured just above the joists, this tolerance is needed for shrinkage;
• In principle, the insulation itself is ready. But if you leave it like that, then walking around the attic will be, at least, uncomfortable. That's why I always recommend putting a floor on top.
  If you have money for tongue and groove floorboard or thick plywood is not enough, then buy a regular unedged board and sew it up. There may be gaps there, but at least this way you can easily walk around and use the attic as a storage room;

• There is one more point that most amateur craftsmen miss. Bulk insulation, especially such as expanded clay and coal slag, have a fairly large fraction and in order to ensure good efficiency It is advisable to cover them with a vapor barrier membrane (thermos effect).
  And don’t forget to put this membrane right side, steam moves from bottom to top. Excess moisture should come out of the insulation freely, and the membrane on top will protect the insulation from getting wet;
• Wooden floors are initially based on ceiling joists, so the technology for their arrangement is similar. Only in this case, instead of waterproofing, the bottom is covered with a vapor barrier membrane or kraft paper;

• There is another way to insulate reinforced concrete floors, it is commonly used in . In order to insulate the slab from above, a layer of polystyrene foam with a density of at least 30 units is glued to the floor, but it is better to take extruded polystyrene foam;
• Next, a metal reinforcing mesh with a cell size of about 50 mm is laid on top of the insulation and a screed 20 - 30 mm thick is poured onto it. As a result, you get a full floor and warm ceiling below. In general, foam plastic is not placed under the screed, but in attic floor or there are no heavy loads in the attic and this rule can be neglected;

• This method of arrangement also has a lightweight, roughly speaking, cheap option. Instead of extruded polystyrene foam, a layer of expanded clay is poured onto the floor. And the screed is already poured onto the expanded clay. It turns out, of course, cheaper, but there is a lot more work, the cake turns out heavier and its thickness only starts from 200 mm.

Conclusion

Now it will be much easier for you to navigate insulation materials, especially those characteristics that sellers usually keep silent about. And most importantly, you can decide which method from the above is suitable specifically in your case. The photos and videos in this article show the main points of insulation in practice. If you still have questions after watching, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

If the house does not have an attic or it is located very low, then the upper part of the building needs to be insulated inside. How to insulate a ceiling from inside a house? What materials should I use? Let's figure it out.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside? There are several materials for ceiling insulation:

1. Foil insulation;
2. Ecowool as insulation for the upper part of the house;
3. Using mineral wool;
4. Use of foam plastic in work;
5. Insulation of the ceiling with penoplex.

Foil insulation

This material is used to insulate concrete surfaces. Additionally, no thermal insulation components are needed to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private home. Production of foil polystyrene foam carried out in sheets 60/120 and thickness 2-9 cm.

Thanks to the technology of stepped locks, there will be no cold between the joints of the sheets. This material is divided into two types: double-sided and single-sided. Most often foil insulation used for thermal insulation of the upper parts of baths.

Installation stages

• A cellular sheathing is made from metal profiles or wooden beams.
• The necessary sheets of material are cut.
• Attached to the sheathing using a stapler.
• The foil side should be located inside the room.
• When laying sheets, you need to do the so-called “ air cushions"so that the foil does not heat up too much.
• From above, the upper part of the house is covered with clapboard or gypsum board.

Ecowool as insulation for ceilings

The basis of ecowool is cellulose, an environmentally friendly material.

Advantages:

1. Due to the content of lingin in the insulation, it becomes breathable, resilient and elastic.
2. Fungus does not form in such insulation, and rodents will not infest it.
3. Fire resistant.
4. When working with metal surfaces no corrosion occurs.

Flaws:

• During operation, a lot of dust is generated.
• You won’t be able to insulate it yourself; the work must be done by specialists.
• You cannot heat the material because it will smolder.

Installation stages

1. Installed in two ways: wet and dry. Dry is used to insulate the ceiling from the outside, and wet from the inside.
2. Ecowool is wetted and glued to the surface.
3. Bonding is carried out under pressure.
4. When the material dries, the surface will become uniform.
5. It can be treated with ecowool and adhesive, and then attached to the base of the upper part of the house.

Using mineral wool

It is necessary to work with this heat-insulating composition very carefully. You need to wear a protective suit, respirator and goggles. So that mineral wool particles do not get on the skin, because it is very irritating to the skin.
Disadvantages of mineral wool:

• You cannot lay the material and then remove it, as it may lose its thermal insulation qualities.
• Afraid of moisture.
• It is necessary to lay it without gaps, the quality of thermal insulation will depend on this.
• It is necessary to use additional thermal insulation agents.
• The material is not durable and requires replacement after 10 years.

Installation stages

1. The upper part of the building is cleared of debris and dust.
2. The frame is made of metal or wooden guides.
3. Measurements are being taken.
4. Logs are installed.
5. A vapor barrier must be secured to the surface.
6. There must be a gap between the vapor barrier and the mineral wool for air circulation.
7. Wear protective clothing.
8. Mineral wool blocks are placed into the resulting cells.
9. Another layer of vapor barrier is attached on top of the insulation.
10. The upper part of the house is covered with purchased material: plasterboard or clapboard.

Use of foam plastic in work

Insulating the ceiling in a private house from the inside with polystyrene foam is used quite often. But it has disadvantages:

• Formaldehydes are released into the air;
• Rodents may appear;
• The upper part of the room will not breathe;
• Lights up when a fire occurs.

Installation stages

1. There are two installation methods: glue and frame.
2. Measurements are taken of the width and length of the ceiling.
3. Thermal insulation material is purchased.
4. The old covering is removed from the ceiling.
5. The surface must be treated with an antiseptic.
6. Afterwards it is primed.
7. Now either the slabs are glued to the ceiling, or a frame is made and the blocks are placed in the cells.
8. At glue method Additionally, the plates are secured with dowels.
9. All cracks are filled with polyurethane foam.
10. Reinforcement of the surface is done.
11. The entire upper surface of the room is sewn up.

Ceiling insulation with penoplex

Advantages of the material:

• Moisture resistant.
• The boards can simply be glued.
• Rodents, fungi and mold will not grow in it.
• Frost-resistant.
• It weighs little.

Installation stages

• The frame is being made.
• Slabs are placed in the cells.
• A vapor barrier layer is attached.
• The upper surface of the room is sewn up.

It can be done another way:

1. The surface is cleaned of dirt.
2. Primed.
3. The plates are treated with glue.
4. Attached to the ceiling.
5. It needs to be covered with plasterboard.

Several methods of ceiling insulation were considered; it is up to the homeowner to decide which one to choose.

The question is how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with cold roof, sounds quite relevant, especially for cold regions of the country.

A large amount of heat escapes through the ceiling, forcing heating devices to work harder.

According to the laws of physics, warm air rises, and cold air, on the contrary, falls down from the ceiling. There is constant, natural cooling of the room. The roof (roof) is built over the ceiling. Its main task is to protect the house from precipitation and remove moisture when snow melts.

If no additional requirements are specified, then thermal insulation is not provided. Moreover, active ventilation is provided in the attic to prevent stagnation of humidified air, which contributes to rotting of the rafters and the formation of mold.

Thus, an uninsulated roof opens the way for heat flow from the living space. As a result significant heat losses occur. To warm up the house you have to go to additional expense coolants. Cold ceiling- this is the surface on which humidified air and steam condense, which not only has a detrimental effect on ceiling covering, but also increases the humidity in the room.

Ceiling insulation is aimed at achieving the following goals:

• maintaining heat in the house and reducing coolant costs;
• stabilization temperature regime indoors – preventing the penetration of cold in winter and maintaining coolness in the hot season;
• optimizing humidity inside the house, eliminating condensation on the ceiling;
• reduction in travel speed air masses and the risk of drafts.

Taking into account the problems that arise, we can make an unambiguous conclusion about the need for ceiling insulation. Such an event significantly increases the comfort of a private home. Most often it is carried out in country houses and at dachas, where the roof is erected in an economical manner.

Roof types

Depending on the design and materials used, roofs can be of 2 types:

1. Warm type. When making such a roof, the slope is made in the form of a “layer cake”, in which, in addition to the outer covering of the roofing material, waterproofing and thermal insulation, and sometimes vapor barrier, are provided. In this case, the attic can be used as a living space, where normal temperature is ensured.
2. Cold roof. This design provides only protection from precipitation and does not have thermal insulation. Sami roofing materials have increased thermal conductivity values ​​and cannot act as insulation. As a result, it is formed cold attic, used as a warehouse.

The type of roof is most often determined by economic considerations. For private houses in permanent residence looks better warm roof. Country and country houses with seasonal residence often have a second version of the roofing structure.

Specifics of a cold roof

A cold-type roof has its own characteristics and specifics. It has a simplified design, when only waterproofing and roofing are applied along the rafter sheathing. This makes it possible to make it easier and cheaper. A cold roof is a budget option private house.

The main specificity of this roof is the absence of thermal insulation on the slopes, but an air space is created under them, providing a kind of buffer zone. Air has a certain thermal resistance, which allows it to gradually cool the rising heat flow. As a result, on inside no ice crust forms on the roof.

The air space in the attic also reduces the effects of cold, but this is not enough to significantly reduce heat loss. In a real way The insulation of the ceiling becomes a way to preserve heat inside the house.

The advantage of ceiling insulation

Insulation cold roof on the ceiling has a number of advantages compared to the construction of a warm roof:

1. Reduced financial expenses, because The ceiling area is significantly smaller than the area of ​​the roof slopes.
2. Ease of installation and the possibility of using cheap materials, incl. bulk type.
3. Preserving the air buffer zone has a beneficial effect on the durability of the ceiling materials and rafter system.
4. Possibility of manufacturing in a house that has been in use for a long time, without dismantling the roofing elements.
5. Creating additional comfort: eliminating noise from falling rain and hail, as well as from wind; creating a thermos effect (keeping warm in winter and cool in summer).

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling area: from the inside, from the room side or outside, from the attic. The choice in favor of a cold roof depends on the purpose of the attic. If an attic is planned on its base, then insulation will have to be done under the roofing. This is the main disadvantage of ceiling insulation - the presence of a cold attic.

Features of external insulation

Ceiling insulation from the attic side is rightly considered the most effective way. In this case, there is a base on which thermal insulation can be laid without worrying about its fastening. Installation is very simple, due to the accessibility of the place where the material is laid. The thickness of the insulating layer is not limited either, because it does not in any way affect the height of the room in the house.

The main difficulty is that you cannot increase the load on the ceiling. Most often, in a private house it is made of wooden beams on which board flooring is laid, and the wood has limited mechanical strength. This condition dictates an important requirement for the insulation - in addition to low thermal conductivity, it must have a low specific gravity.

External ceiling insulation can be provided different materials. Particularly highlighted are bulk materials with low thermal conductivity. Can be used folk remedies– straw, reeds, algae, etc. We should not forget about modern polymer thermal insulation. Table 1 shows the thermal conductivity values ​​for some materials.

Table 1. Parameters of some available materials

Thermal insulation	Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/Km	Specific gravity, kg/m 3
Felt	0,033-0,052	-
Dry leaves	0,051-0,063	-
Tow	0,036-0,043	185
Moss	0,042	134
Needles	0,082	435
Compressed straw	0,051-0,065	-
cotton wool	0,035	82
Small chips	0,052-0,095	142-300
Bonfire	0,043-0,064	140-360
Peat	0,048-0,072	152
Sawdust	0,055-0,085	180-240

Insulation with bulk materials

Laying thermal insulation on the attic side makes it possible to use bulk materials. To do this, it is necessary to strengthen the ceiling covering, eliminate all cracks and lay waterproofing, and, if necessary, a vapor barrier. The most widely used materials are:

1. Expanded clay. It is made by firing clay after it has foamed. As a result, it has a thermal conductivity in the range of 0.1-0.12 W/Km and a specific gravity of 220-400 kg/m3. For insulation, it is well suited with grains of 5-9 mm in size.
2. Sawdust and wood shavings. These woodworking wastes are considered good thermal insulation when dry. The main task is to prevent them from getting wet. To insulate the ceiling, a layer of about 20-35 cm is required, depending on the region. To inside wood materials to prevent pests and small rodents from growing, quicklime should be added to the mass. Main disadvantage sawdust – flammable. To increase fire safety, they should be impregnated with fire retardants, and sprinkled on top thin layer ash or slag.

Loose insulation is usually laid in the spaces between floor beams. If their height is not enough, then you can grow them using wooden beam. Before backfilling, vapor and waterproofing is laid on the ceiling flooring.

The material is poured in layers with careful compaction. It is not recommended to lay film on top. Bulk insulation should be easily ventilated, which will prevent the formation of condensation in it.

Clay insulation

By its nature, clay is a good heat insulator. It has been used for roof insulation since ancient times. An important drawback is the heavy weight. In order to reduce it, the clay is transferred to a liquid state and straw or sawdust (shavings) is added.

The clay is applied in a layer 25-35 cm thick. After drying, it may crack. To eliminate this defect, it is recommended to pour a layer of sand 5-6 cm thick on top. Dry sand can also perform a thermal insulation function. When cracks appear in the clay, sand fills them, maintaining its insulating properties.

Insulation with reeds and straw

Dried plant stems (reeds, straw) were previously widely used to insulate the roofs of houses. Nowadays, such material seems unnecessarily antediluvian, but it also finds its admirers. Reeds are used in the form of mats, which can be made in several ways: stitching transversely or longitudinally located rows of stems, by stitching with wire staples or a continuous seam. They are laid in 2-3 layers with overlapping joints.

Straw is most often used in the form of compressed bales. They are laid in 2 layers. The total thickness of straw insulation is 30-40 cm. The main disadvantage is flammability. To eliminate it, impregnation with fire retardants is used.

Application of algae

For homes on the sea coast, algae can be an excellent ceiling insulation material. They are thoroughly dried and knitted into mats. This unusual material has the following necessary properties: low thermal conductivity, increased vapor permeability and reduced water absorption, non-flammability, resistance to harmful microorganisms. Many people are attracted by its medicinal properties - algae can saturate the air with iodine.

Prepared algae mats are laid similarly to reed elements. The total thickness of the thermal insulation is 30-35 cm. It is recommended to lay a boardwalk on top on which you can move.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool or cellulose wool is a fibrous material based on paper waste, i.e. cellulose. The composition may include natural binders and pigments that do not impair important property– environmental cleanliness. The material can be applied to the ceiling manually or mechanically.

There are 2 technologies for applying ecowool insulation:

1. Wet method. The mixture is prepared in a liquid consistency with the possibility of applying it with a sprayer. Lignin is used as a binding component. The mass penetrates into all cracks and creates a monolithic coating, inside of which there are numerous air pores. Most often, a thickness of 20-26 cm is provided. In Siberian conditions, the thickness of thermal insulation increases to 45-50 cm.
2. Dry method. With this technology, dry raw materials are poured between the floor beams and compacted.

In addition to these methods, ecowool is sometimes applied in the form of a thick solution. To do this, the dry, ready-made mixture is diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. The mortar is poured between the beams in the same way as concrete.

Application of foam plastic

Foam plastic, i.e. foamed polymer (most often expanded polystyrene) in the form of slabs (blocks), has been recognized for several decades as one of the most effective insulation materials. Its low specific gravity makes it possible to use it for arranging a ceiling. Limits the use of the risk of releasing substances harmful to humans, which become toxic when ignited. Taking this into account, it is recommended to use it only as external insulation.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is made of slabs 10-15 cm thick. They are laid between the floor beams close to each other. The joints should be sealed with foam.

Use of mineral wool

Mineral wool as ceiling insulation is no less in demand than polystyrene foam. This is facilitated by high thermal insulation capabilities and ease of installation. This fibrous material has one important drawback - hygroscopicity. Moreover, when moisture penetrates, the thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. This requires reliable vapor and waterproofing.

Among the fibrous (cotton) insulation materials, the following materials stand out:

1. Mineral wool. It is based on silicon fibers.
2. Basalt wool, made from basalt rocks. It is highly durable.
3. Slag. The raw material for its production is blast furnace slag. Its main advantage is low cost. When in contact with water, it can release harmful substances and is therefore not recommended for indoor use.

Among the numerous representatives of cotton insulation, UPSA (URSA) especially stands out. This is a high-quality material, sold in rolls and slabs. The most widespread roll version, which is quickly and easily installed on the ceiling. The strips are laid between the beams with overlap and overlap on the beams in several layers. The total thickness is 10-22 cm.

Foam insulation

Nowadays it is increasingly used modern technology ceiling insulation - foam. Polyurethane foam is used for these purposes. It is delivered in two-component liquid form. Using a special device, the mixture is supplied under pressure to the ceiling surface.

As a result, polymerization of the material occurs and chemical reaction with highlighting large quantity gas The surface of the ceiling is covered with a uniform layer of polymer foam.

After polyurethane foam hardens, reliable thermal insulation is provided. The material has excellent water resistance, which eliminates the need to install vapor and waterproofing. An important advantage of the technology is that the polymer fills all, even hard-to-reach, places on the ceiling, which eliminates the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. The downside is the high cost.

How to properly insulate from the inside?

In some cases, it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. For example, it is very difficult to hold such an event at a low height, i.e. low slopes of roof slopes. This circumstance dictates the need for thermal insulation of the ceiling on the room side. The problem arises of fixing the material to the ceiling.

In addition, the thickness is limited so as not to lower the ceiling excessively, and the requirements for harmlessness to humans are also increased. For insulation from the inside they are usually used modern materials, satisfying the specified requirements.

Penoplex insulation

For internal insulation Extruded foam is often used. It is available in rolls and in the form of slabs. Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the following order:

1. A lathing made of wooden beams 4-5 cm high is fixed to the ceiling surface. The installation step of the beams is 50-70 cm, depending on the width of the plastic.
2. Penoplex is laid in the cells of the sheathing, which is fixed to the ceiling with glue. The thickness of the insulation is 3-4 cm. Penoplex should not reach the edge of the beam by 10-15 mm to form a ventilation gap.
3. Sheathing with plasterboard or other sheet material.

When laying insulation there should be no gaps. All of them must be carefully filled with polyurethane foam or other sealing compounds. You can use a putty mixture.

Penofol thermal insulation

Another popular insulation material is penofol. He is roll material based on foamed polyethylene, the surface of which is coated with aluminum foil. Penofol is somewhat inferior to penoplex in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, but the presence of foil allows it to be used additionally as a vapor barrier.

Application to the ceiling from the inside is carried out similarly to the previous case. In this case, the foil surface should be directed towards the room. In areas with cold climates, a combination of penofol and penoplex is often used.

Insulation with plaster

In order for ordinary cement-sand plaster to act as thermal insulation, a layer of several tens of centimeters is required. The practical possibility of insulation with plaster is provided by the use of mixtures with special additives.

In particular, the heat-insulating mixture Akterm is recommended. Such plaster with a thickness of 1 cm is comparable to the characteristics of foam plastic with a thickness of 3-4 cm. The prevalence of plaster insulation is limited by the scarcity and high cost of the material.

Cork insulation

Cork can be considered one of the most effective ceiling insulation materials. Its low specific gravity and low thermal conductivity creates unique properties. Roll insulation in the form of an agglomerate white made of cork wood is fixed in the cells of the sheathing.

This material is most often used during installation suspended structures(Armstrong type).

How to find out the required thickness of ceiling insulation?

The effectiveness of thermal insulation, as well as the load on ceiling structure. The thickness is determined based on the required thermal protection and permissible weight.

Thickness based on thermal insulation requirements, is assessed taking into account standards for thermal resistance and thermal conductivity coefficient of insulation. The first parameter is set for different regions taking into account climatic conditions.

For example, for the Middle Volga region the resistance is 4 m 2 K/W. If you use polyurethane foam with a thermal conductivity of 0.025 W/mK, then it is enough to multiply these indicators to obtain a sufficient thermal insulation thickness of 0.1 m.

For evaluation calculations, you can take into account the following value of the thermal conductivity coefficient (in W/mK):

• mineral wool - 0.037-0.049;
• foam plastics (expanded polystyrene) – 0.031-0.037;
• polyurethane foam – 0.025-0.027;
• expanded clay – 0.112;
• ecowool – 0.035-0.043.

The weighting of the ceiling as a result of insulation is determined based on the density of the materials. Foamed polymers and ecowool, having a density in the range of 25-80 kg/m 3, are considered the lightest. One of the heaviest is expanded clay (180-350 kg/m3).

Insulation of the ceiling in the presence of a cold roof in a private house is important requirement for efficient and comfortable operation. It will keep the room warm and reduce heating costs. When installing thermal insulation with your own hands, it is important to choose the right insulation from the huge range of materials offered. You can get by traditional ways, or you can use modern insulation materials.

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