After cutting chipboard or laminated chipboard on the part, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed for the following reasons:
-give an aesthetic appearance to the workpiece (part);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
-protect the end surfaces of workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
-protect the end surfaces from moisture entering the slabs.
There are also edges that act as shock absorbers (SOFT edges) and are used for the manufacture of children's furniture.
Let's look at some methods for sealing the end surfaces of chipboard and arrange them according to the rigidity of the end surface. The hardest surface will take first place.
MORTASE EDGE (PVC)
In the cross-sectional drawings we see several different edges.
To install them, you need a hand router
make a groove along the entire length of the end, the required width and depth.
The width of the groove is formed by a milling cutter,
after passing which, it should be 0.5...0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6...10mm, depending on the length of the tenon.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. We grind (grind) the edges of the end of the chipboard with fine-grained emery cloth.
2. Select a cutter required thickness and diameter, install it in the center of the tenon seal.
3. Mill the groove of the required size.
4. Cover with PVA glue or “liquid nails” outer surface thorn.
5. Gently hammer the edge with a rubber hammer until it fits snugly against the surface of the end.
6. Trim the ends on both sides and finally align them with the end surfaces.
EDGING EDGE
Overhead plastic profile does not require the use of expensive tools. There is no noise or dust during operation.
To install the profile we will use glue and a knife.
1. Sand the end faces.
2. Lubricate the inner surface with liquid nails glue or silicone sealant.
3. We will put the profile on the end of the chipboard.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant and wait for the glue to dry completely.
5. Trim the ends and align them with the end surfaces.
In curved sections, the profile must be fixed and pressed against the end surface. This can be done using masking tape.
FURNITURE EDGE
Paper or plastic tape, which is glued to the open end of the chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4...5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher its strength characteristics, so the ends in hard-to-reach places are covered with a thin edge, and on the contrary, the ends in easily accessible places are covered with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the slab, plus a processing allowance of 2...3 mm.
1. Check that the glue is applied evenly to the inner surface.
2. Press it to the end and heat it with a hairdryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light stripes form, they can be repaired furniture wax, stain or potassium permanganate solution.
Material classification:
-melamine edge ( paper strip, which is impregnated with urea (melamine) resins and treated with varnish);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).
We know how to choose materials, construction fasteners, and how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can begin self-production furniture that you yourself invented and designed.
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Sheets and polycarbonate profiles are quite easy to cut. For better cutting it is necessary use high speed circular saws with emphasis. Blades for such saws must have small, unset teeth and be reinforced with hard alloys. When cutting polycarbonate panels, the profiles must be securely supported to avoid vibration. Cutting can also be done with a band saw.
After the panels are cut, their internal cavities must be remove chips.
Drilling holes
Sealing the ends of a cellular polycarbonate panel
Important properly close the ends of the panels. When the sheets are inclined or vertical, the upper ends must be sealed with continuous aluminum self-adhesive tape. Cover the lower ends with a special perforated tape, which will prevent the penetration of dust and ensure condensate drainage. If the structure has an arched appearance, then both ends must be covered with perforated tape.
We strongly recommend using polycarbonate end profiles of similar color. They are quite aesthetic, reliable and very comfortable. The design of such profiles provides for fairly tight fixation at the ends of the panels and does not require additional fasteners.
To ensure condensate drainage, it is necessary drill several holes in the end profile.
It is forbidden ends cellular polycarbonate leave them open, seal them with regular tape, and also hermetically seal the lower ends of the panels.
Orientation of polycarbonate panels during design and installation
In cellular polycarbonate, internal stiffeners are located along the length of the sheet (typical sizes are 3m, 6 or 12m). The panel must be oriented in such a way that the condensate that will form inside the panel can flow through its internal channels and be discharged outside.
If the glazing has a vertical orientation, then the stiffening ribs should be located vertically, in a pitched structure, respectively, along the slope. If the frame has an arched appearance, then the stiffening ribs should follow an arc and not parallel to the ground. These conditions must be taken into account at the design stage of the structure when calculating the number of sheets of cellular polycarbonate and their correct cutting.
For outdoor use, it is advisable to use cellular polycarbonate coated with a special protective UV-stabilizing layer, which is applied to the outer surface of the panel. On this side the polycarbonate sheet has protective film with special markings. We recommend installing the panels without removing this film, and doing this only after completion of the work.
It is forbidden bend the panels to a smaller radius than specified by the manufacturer for the specific thickness and structure of polycarbonate. Also, you cannot violate the rules of sheet orientation.
Point fastening of panels
Point fastening of cellular polycarbonate sheets to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws and special thermal washers.
Thermal washer consists of a plastic washer with a leg, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the panel, a sealing washer and a snap-on lid. This device allows you to reliably and hermetically fasten polycarbonate panels, as well as eliminate “cold bridges” created by self-tapping screws. In addition, the leg of the thermal washer will rest against the frame of the structure and thereby prevent the material from collapsing.
In order to compensate for the thermal expansion of cellular polycarbonate, the holes in the panels must be made 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the thermal washer leg. And if the panel is long, then it is recommended to make the holes elongated along the sheet. The recommended point mounting spacing is 300-400 mm.
Cellular polycarbonate panels it is forbidden fasten too tightly by overtightening the screws, use rivets, nails and unsuitable washers for fastening.
Connecting and fastening panels
To connect sheets of cellular polycarbonate to each other, one-piece and detachable polycarbonate profiles are used, which can also be transparent and colored.
Installation using one-piece profiles.
The panels are inserted into the grooves of the profile corresponding to the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate sheets. Then, using self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers, this profile is attached to the longitudinal supports of the frame.
The panels can also be installed using detachable polycarbonate profiles . They consist of two parts: the lower part is the “base”, the upper part is the snap-on lid.
Installation procedure:
- Holes are drilled in the “base”, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The pitch is approximately 300 mm.
- Attach the “base” using self-tapping screws to the longitudinal support of the frame, and then lay polycarbonate sheets on both sides, leaving a “thermal gap” of about 3-5 mm.
- Using a wooden mallet, snap the profile “cover” along its entire length. Then close the ends of the profile with special plugs.
What needs to be taken into account when designing a structure frame for cellular polycarbonate
When designing a cellular polycarbonate coating, it is important to consider:
- standard sizes of sheets of material and their economical cutting;
- exposure to snow and wind loads;
- thermal expansion of polycarbonate panels, for example, with seasonal temperature changes from -40 to +40°C, each meter of cellular polycarbonate sheet will undergo a change of approximately 5.2 mm;
- when creating arched structures, permissible bending radii of panels;
- the need to complete cellular polycarbonate with mounting elements (screws, thermal washers, connecting and end profiles, self-adhesive tapes).
Homeowners pay a lot of attention to the appearance of their home, trying to distinguish it from neighboring buildings. Agree, living in a beautiful, harmoniously decorated house, however, when on the threshold economic crisis, involuntarily you begin to look for ways to do the finishing cheaper. The issue of choosing the material for cladding the gables deserves special attention, since it is literally the face of the house. However, not only the aesthetic appeal of this façade element is important, but also its performance. This article will tell you how to choose the right cladding method and perform installation.
Pediment functions
The pediment is the part of the facade of the house enclosed between the roof slopes. It has triangular, pentagonal and or trapezoidal shape and is made from a material that matches or differs from the material of the main wall. In addition to its aesthetic function, the roof gable performs the following tasks:
- Protects from wind. The gable structure is exposed to wind loads, so it must be strong enough.
- Supports roof slopes. Reliable gables are an additional measure of support for slopes, which is especially important for roofs made of heavy roofing materials, for example, slate or tiles.
- Keep warm. The pediment is a protective barrier between the warm rooms of the attic and the cold atmospheric air. Therefore, the thicker the lining, the fewer cracks in it, the warmer the house.
- Protection from atmospheric precipitation. The wall between the slopes should be sewn up to protect the finishing of the under-roof room from moisture.
- Improves appearance facade. The facade of the house will look beautiful if it is covered with clapboard or other decorative materials.
Note! Regarding the choice of cladding experienced builders They offer two ways: sheathe the roof gable with a material similar in color and structure to the main wall decoration, or highlight this area using a contrasting shade. High-quality lining masks small flaws in the masonry, unevenness or unsightly appearance of the wall.
Cladding of the pediment with clapboard
If you have limited financial resources, no better option in order to sheathe the pediment than the lining. This material has a rich texture natural wood and a nice color. It is fixed on wooden frame from bars using screws or nails. Finishing using wood has its own characteristics:
- Tree - natural material, which is susceptible to microorganisms that cause mold and mildew. Therefore, cladding a house from this material without additional protection is destroyed.
- The lining suffers from excess moisture. The finishing of a clapboard house needs treatment paint coating, repelling water.
- If you cover the gable wall of a house with wood material, you need to take into account the fire hazard of this material. The fire quickly consumes the lining and spreads to the rest of the roof.
- Difficulty of maintenance. Protective coatings, necessary to protect the lining from fire, moisture and microorganisms, require reapplication once every 1-2 seasons.
Installation wood finishing speeds up the construction process thanks to convenient fastening tongue and groove This system of connecting elements greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the gable wall finishing. The lining can be painted in any color or coated with a glazing antiseptic so that it blends harmoniously with the shade of the roof and facade.
Note! If you decide to cover the gable of the roof with clapboard in order to save money, then keep in mind that such savings will be momentary. Lifespan of wood trim without treatment protective compounds is 5 years, after which the pediment loses its neat appearance and collapses. If you use an antiseptic, paints and fire retardant, you can extend the life of the lining to 15-20 years. However, the treatments have to be repeated almost every season, so the final cost of this type of cladding exceeds the price of more practical options.
Siding finishing
Professional builders call it the most inexpensive and practical material, which can be used to cover the pediment - siding. Siding is called decorative panels made of polyvinyl chloride, metal or asbestos cement. They are equipped with hook locks along their entire length. To install siding, a frame made of metal profile. This finishing method has the following advantages:
Important! The peculiarity of polyvinyl chloride is that when the temperature changes, the dimensions of the panels change slightly. Because of thermal expansion they are deformed, burst, and unpleasant gaps form between the elements.
When choosing what material to use to decorate the pediment, think first of all about its durability and practicality. After all, house cladding, which requires removal after three seasons, is a dubious savings.
Video instruction
The most common method of finishing the ends of cabinet furniture parts from laminated chipboard consists of gluing or another type of edge with subsequent processing. Along with this, there is another common method of finishing the ends - cutting or gluing PVC edging. The edging is used, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture during its operation, high humidity, as well as for design reasons.
Types of PVC edging.
Unlike edging, in which the excess is cut off during the edging process, edging is produced immediately for a specific slab thickness (the most common are 16 and 32 mm), cutting PVC edging to length is not provided for by the technology. There is also no provision for joining the PVC edging at the corners. To cover two adjacent ends with edging, it is necessary to ensure smooth transition- round the corner. The minimum possible radius of rounding is selected experimentally for each edge individually, since this greatly depends on the rigidity of the edge, the size of the sides, and the characteristics of the top (decorative) coating.
The edges of the edging can be either with sides (with girths, overlapping the plane of the material) or without them. Traditionally, edging with sides is used more widely for several reasons: it allows you to hide small chips of the laminate near the end of the part, protect the end from direct moisture, and is less demanding on accuracy technological process and stability of material thickness.
Furniture edging can be divided into two groups: mortise-type edging with a tenon (T-edging), overhead edging without a tenon (C-edging). The mortise edging is available both with and without sides. There is no overlay edging without edges. The technologies for finishing the end of a part with one and the other type of edging differ radically, but (subject to the technology), in terms of operational reliability and consumer qualities, C- and T-edgings are practically no different.
Examples of mortise edge profiles: without edges for 32 mm chipboard (photo on the left), with edges for 16 mm chipboard (photo on the right).
Dimensions are approximate, depending on the edging manufacturer.
Mortise edge.
Mortise edging is the most common type of PVC edging. Since the T-edge has a tenon, for this purpose a groove (groove) of a certain width and depth must be made in the end of the chipboard, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the edge tenon). The main tool required for installing a mortise edging is manual frezer with an edge cutter, or its stationary version - a milling machine.If there are no special requirements for the milling cutter, a device of low power from 1 kW is sufficient, then the cutter should be selected according to a number of parameters. Firstly, the cutter must leave behind a groove of a certain width, namely 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the edge tenon. So how are u different manufacturers Since the tenon thickness of the edge is different, then, ideally, to insert an edge into a 16-mm chipboard, you need to have two cutters with tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and to insert a 32-mm edge, a separate cutter, or even two. However, in practice, for reasons of saving money, it is enough to have only one cutter with a tooth height of 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of runout of the cutter and shaft ( collet chuck) router, this tooth height can be considered universal, suitable for inserting the vast majority of 16 mm T-edges. To make a groove of a significantly larger width, milling is performed in several passes, with a change in the overhang of the cutter. If runout of the equipment and/or tool is detected, it is necessary to select a cutter with a lower tooth height, since runout can lead to a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter must leave a groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the edge tenon, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, to be able to use an edging from any manufacturer (with any tenon length), you need a cutter that provides a groove depth of 10 mm or more. It is irrational to choose a cutter with an unreasonably high milling depth, since this reduces the resource of the cutter and leads to an increase in the load on the milling cutter. The sequence of operations when finishing the end of a laminated chipboard with a mortise PVC edging is shown below.
An example of measuring the thickness of an edging tenon for 32 mm chipboard.
The Italian edging has a thicker tenon and O greater rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
An example of measuring the thickness of an edging tenon for 16 mm chipboard.
The Italian edging has a thicker spike, b O greater rigidity and height of the sides (photo on the left) than the Chinese (photo on the right).
Examples of inner edge width measurements
for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are approximate, depending on the edging manufacturer.
Edge cutter for mortise edging.
The groove depth W depends on the bearing diameter d1, cutter diameter D
and is found by the formula W=(D-d1)/2.
Step 1. Aligns the cutter to the center of the end with an accuracy of no worse than +/-0.5 mm.
Step 2. We grind (ground) the edges of the laminated chipboard so that when stuffing the edging with the edges it does not chip off the laminate.
Step 3. Milling the groove.
The groove for the edging is ready.
Step 4.
Step 4. Trimming edge ends (photo left), sanding flush (photo right).
Ready.
The adjacent end can be covered with an edge, capturing the edging(photo on the right).
Using garden pruners.
It is convenient to cut the PVC edging with garden pruning shears, which have one persistent (not sharp) cutter, and the second is a working, sharpened one. The thrust cutter is thick enough and rounded so as not to injure decorative surface edging, and secondly, it is good to repeat its semicircular shape. The working cutter has a one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, this allows you to press the cutter tightly against the end of the chipboard and trim the edge flush in one motion, without subsequent sanding with sandpaper.
Small garden secateurs for trimming edging 16 mm. To work with a wide 32mm edge, it is better to choose a larger model.
We press the stop cutter tightly against the semicircular surface of the edge, press the working blade with our finger against the end of the chipboard, and perform the trimming.
High-quality cutting in one motion. With some skill and a sharply sharpened blade, pruning shears can cut very narrow strips of edge.
Overlay edging.
Installation of the overlay edging does not require the use of power tools, the work is not dusty and can be done even at home, all you need is a knife and glue.It is necessary to prepare the inner surface of the edge, namely, apply deep multidirectional scratches in order to improve the adhesion of the glue. Any sharp object is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, a hacksaw blade, etc. After the surface is scratched, it is necessary to apply glue to the inner surface of the edge, for example, the well-proven “liquid nails”. If there is a need for maximum protection against water penetration under the edging, then instead of glue you should use silicone sealant by applying it in excess.After applying the glue, the edging is sequentially put on the end of the part, leaving small allowances at the ends. Exposed adhesive must be removed immediately. If necessary, paper (painting) tape will help to temporarily fix the edge (for example, near curved areas). After the glue has dried (for " liquid nails" - day), trim the edging allowances flush. The need to wait for the glue to dry is the main disadvantage of using an overlay edge compared to a mortise edge.
Step 1. We scratch the underside of the edge.
Step 2. Apply liquid nails glue.
Step 3. We put the edging on the end of the chipboard, remove the squeezed out excess glue.
Ready. The end of the laminated chipboard is finished with an applied PVC edging.
The ends are trimmed after the glue has dried.
Some subtleties of working with edgingPVC.
- Priority in choosing should be given to the edging whose base color matches the color of the decor as closely as possible - outer covering. This will help make possible minor damage (scratches) to the edge unnoticeable.
- The size of the edging sides varies. Preference should be given to edging with a higher side height, this will allow you to cover very large chips in the laminate.
- The stiffer the edge, the stronger it is and the better it can withstand impacts. As a rule, more expensive edges have greater rigidity.
- The rigidity of the edge depends on the room temperature. It is recommended to stuff the edging when room temperature. Work at low temperatures requires special attention behind the edging edge, it becomes rigid and can lift (chip off) the edge of the laminate.
- Glue like “Liquid Nails” and some others are critical to storage and curing temperatures. The adhesive manufacturer's recommendations must be strictly followed.
The ends of cabinet furniture trimmed with PVC edging acquire excellent performance, strength and decorative characteristics. An edging with sides, mounted using sealing compounds, is a reliable and probably the cheapest decorative means of protecting the ends of parts from the penetration of water, which helps to avoid swelling of the chipboard.