Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner from the sewer. Traffic cone cyclone

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If a person has his own workshop, then one of the most important issues is cleaning the premises. But unlike cleaning dust in an apartment, a regular household vacuum cleaner will not help here, since it is not designed for construction garbage and sawdust - its garbage container (dust collector or bag) will very quickly become clogged and become unusable. Therefore, they often use a homemade cyclone filter, which, together with a household vacuum cleaner, will help clean the workshop.

Introduction

Wood dust and other technical debris, although it seems harmless at first glance, actually pose many different dangers, both for the master and for the equipment. For example, prolonged work without protective equipment that prevents dust from entering the respiratory system can cause serious complications with the respiratory tract, impair the sense of smell, etc. In addition, a tool that is in the workshop under the influence of dust can quickly fail. This happens because:

  1. dust, mixing with lubricant inside the tool, forms a mixture that is completely unsuitable for lubricating moving parts, which results in overheating and further damage
  2. dust can make it difficult for the moving parts of the tool to rotate, which leads to additional stress, overheating and failure,
  3. dust clogs the air ducts designed to ventilate the heated parts of the tool and remove heat from them, again resulting in overheating, deformation and failure.

Thus, the issue of the quality of removal of sawing products and, in general, cleaning of the premises is very acute. Modern power tools are equipped with systems for removing dust and chips directly from the sawing area, which prevents dust from spreading throughout the workshop. In any case, the dust removal process requires a vacuum cleaner (or chip cleaner)!

There are good ones industrial vacuum cleaners and if possible, it is better to choose the most best option price and quality and buy a construction vacuum cleaner.

However, there are cases when you already have a household vacuum cleaner and it is easier to upgrade it and solve the problem of collecting construction waste indoors. To do this, you need to use a cyclone filter - it can be done in half an hour if all the necessary elements are available.

Principle of operation

There are a great many different designs of cyclones, but they all share the same operating principle. All designs of cyclone chip suckers consist of three main parts:

  • Household vacuum cleaner
  • Cyclone filter
  • Waste collection container

Its design is such that the flow of intake air is directed in a circle and it is obtained rotational movement. Accordingly, the construction waste contained in this air flow (these are large and heavy fractions) is acted upon by a centrifugal force, which presses it against the walls of the cyclone chamber and, under the influence of gravity, it gradually settles in the tank.

The disadvantage of a cyclone vacuum cleaner is that in this way you can only collect dry garbage, but if there is water in the garbage, then there will be problems when sucking up such a substance.

The vacuum cleaner must be powerful enough, since in its normal mode of operation it is assumed that air is sucked through a standard hose. In case of using additional cyclone filter, an additional filter appears in the air path, and the total length of the air duct is more than doubled due to the additional air duct. Since the design is as maneuverable as a separate vacuum cleaner, the length of the last hose should be sufficient for comfortable work.

Preparatory work

As mentioned above, you can make a cyclone filter for a workshop in half an hour, but to do this you need to check the availability of everything necessary for the production of a chip blower with your own hands, namely: tools, materials and consumables.

Tools

To carry out the work, the following tools will be needed:

  1. electric drill,
  2. screwdriver,
  3. jigsaw,
  4. compass,
  5. clamps,
  6. Phillips screwdriver,
  7. pencil,
  8. on wood (50-60mm),
  9. kit .

Materials and fasteners

Materials can be used both new and used, so carefully review the list below - you may already have something in stock;

  1. The air duct (hose) for a vacuum cleaner is corrugated or in a textile braid.
  2. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 100–150 mm, into one of the ends of which the air duct of your household vacuum cleaner should be inserted.
  3. Sewer outlet 30 or 45 degrees, 100–200 mm long, into one end of which the air duct specified in paragraph 1 will be inserted.
  4. Plastic bucket (“large”) 11-26 liters with a hermetically sealed lid.
  5. Bucket (“small”) plastic 5-11 liters. Note. It is important that the difference between the two maximum diameters of the buckets is approximately 60–70 mm.
  6. Sheet 15–20 mm thick. Note. The sheet size must be larger than the maximum diameter of the Large Bucket.
  7. Wood screws with a flat wide head and a length of 2/3 of the thickness.
  8. Universal gel sealant.

Table standard sizes round plastic buckets.

Volume, l Cover diameter, mm Height, mm
1,0 125 115
1,2 132 132
2,2 160 150
2,3 175 133
2,6 200 124
3,0 200 139
3,4 200 155
3,8 200 177
3,8 200 177
5,0 225 195
11 292 223
18 326 275
21 326 332
26 380 325
33 380 389

Making a cyclone filter

Creating a homemade chip sucker consists of a number of stages:

  1. Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert
  2. Installing the Retaining Ring
  3. Installing the side pipe
  4. Top entry installation
  5. Installing a shaped insert
  6. Cyclone filter assembly

Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert

It is necessary to cut off the side of a small bucket, which is used to attach the lid. The result should be a cylinder like this (well, slightly conical).

We make markings - place a small bucket on it and draw a line along the edge - we get a circle.

Then we determine the center of this circle (see school geometry course) and mark another circle, the radius of which is 30 mm larger than the existing one. Then we mark the ring and the shaped insert, as shown in the figure.

Installing the Retaining Ring

We fix the ring on the edge of a small bucket so that we get a side. We fasten using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes to avoid splitting.

We mark the roof of a large bucket. To mark, you need to place the bucket itself on the lid of a large bucket and trace its outline. It is better to make markings with a felt-tip pen, as the mark is clearly visible.

It is important to note that all connections must be airtight; therefore, before installing the cover, the connection area must be coated with sealant. You also need to coat the junction of the wooden ring and the small bucket.

Installing the side pipe

The side pipe is made from a sewer outlet of 30 degrees (or 45 degrees). To install it, you need to drill a hole in the top of the small bucket with a crown. Notice that the top of the small bucket has now become its bottom.

Top entry installation

To make the upper input, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the chip sucker (small bucket), that is, in the center of the former bottom.

To firmly fix the inlet pipe, use additional element strength in the form of a square piece of 20 mm thickness with a central hole for a 50 mm pipe.

This workpiece is fastened from below with four self-tapping screws. Before installation, the joint must be coated with sealant to ensure a tight seal.

Installing a shaped insert

The shaped insert is a very important component of a homemade chip cleaner; it must be secured inside the cyclone filter, as shown in the photo.

Cyclone filter assembly

Then you need to connect the air ducts correctly:

  1. Upper pipe – to a household vacuum cleaner
  2. An angled outlet that enters from the side at an angle to the hose.

Homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner(chip blower) is ready.

Video

Video this review is based on:

From the very beginning of working in the workshop I encountered the problem of removing dust after work. The only available way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop made the problem worse. Some solutions have been to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. Water freezes in winter unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all nooks and crannies can be reached with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust greatly exceeding the calculated values ​​will greatly affect the service life of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found it on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a regular household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems with household vacuum cleaners can be solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to the standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some people assemble cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, others from plywood and whatever their imagination allows. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.


The principle of operation is simple - the air flow swirls in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the influence of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the common problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called “carousel”. This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high speed air flow created by the vacuum cleaner turbine. You need to reduce the speed a little and the “carousel” will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the “carousel” into the container and takes its place. And in the second model, plastic cyclones of this carousel practically do not exist. To eliminate air leaks, I coated the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.

I decided to get a larger dust collection container so that I would have to take out the trash less often. I bought a 127 liter barrel, apparently made in Samara - just the right size! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a string bag - on a different cart, so as not to strain herself.

Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collection unit permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them into Right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one unit.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to make the body of the installation from metal. Frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

When installed vertically, there is a risk of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this purpose, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The noticeable weight of the cart is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure was not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.

In order to achieve verticality of the rods, I had to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve precise setting of the angles.

It is convenient to move the cart while holding the vertical bars, so I reinforced their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame using clamps.

At the top of the rods there is a platform for the vacuum cleaner. Next, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and the wooden planks will be secured using self-tapping screws.

Here, in fact, is the entire frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Safety glasses and a welding mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is completed. Besides, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.

I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in cold weather, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint has a hardener, don’t worry about it at all.
I found in the caches an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha back in the summer - . The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerite added a little regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began painting.
In the summer this paint dried in one hour. It’s difficult to say how long it was drying in the winter, but when I returned to the workshop in the evening next day the paint has dried. True, without the promised hammer effect. It's probably the degreaser that's to blame, not negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it’s not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is quite flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads may occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel needs to be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically they collect additional frame hardness for the filter. The designs are very varied, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this a little differently. I welded a holder for pipes of a suitable diameter onto one of the rods.

In this holder I clamp the hose, which bears all the twisting and jerking. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any loads. Now you can pull the unit directly behind you by the hose without fear of damaging anything.

I decided to secure the barrel with tightening straps. When I was choosing locks at a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tie-down belt with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and the bare frog-type lock lying next to it cost me 180 rubles. Russian production would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology lies.

Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, not the entire barrel was compressed, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself out with a click.

At the top of the installation there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

I purchased a bagless, almost two-kilowatt monster as a household vacuum cleaner. I was already thinking that this would be useful for me at home.
While buying a vacuum cleaner from an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. People sell used items without a guarantee, with a worn-out part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some popular items, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of posting of advertisements, this trade sometimes lasts for years. And as soon as you start haggling and name an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I finally found it for myself great option for 800 rubles. Famous brand, 1900 Watt, built-in cyclone filter (the second one in my system) and another fine filter.
To secure it, I couldn’t think of anything more elegant than pressing it with a tightening strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to get a little tricky with connecting the hoses. As a result, we have such a setup. And it works!

Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such things, people are choked with delight. I experienced something similar when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone wears street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it up only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

We managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom into the barrel. When the device is operating, thanks to the transparency of the filter, you can observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was a small amount of it and these were particularly light and volatile fractions.

I'm very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm moving into a new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, determined only by the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be carried and pulled by the hose without fear of tearing out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still encountered the problem of a lack of rigidity of the barrel.
Purchased more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but it sucks like a beast - it sucks up stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and tears bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner collapsed a blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tightly wrapping the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, it's a shame. But it looks something like this:

On thematic forums they warn about this possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not yield any results.
2. Assemble the box yourself the right size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.

The box was assembled using self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed using double-sided foam tape.

The cart had to be altered a little - the rear clamp had to be modified to fit a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a garbage bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel didn't allow this.

The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out more.

It worked out well. Cute, functional, reliable. How I love.

Recently I became interested in working with wood and the issue of removing shavings and sawdust arose very urgently. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace has been solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly becomes clogged and stops suction. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I looked through many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turns out, it is possible to make fully functional dust collectors from scrap materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner made from a plastic bottle

Here is another idea for a mini vacuum cleaner based on the Venturi effect
This vacuum cleaner operates using forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is a pressure drop when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746–1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of Bernoulli's law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the fluid element in question is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the acceleration of gravity.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two sections of the flow, then we will have:

For horizontal flow, the middle terms in the left and right parts the equations are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition in those places of the flow where average speed fluid is higher (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic head increases, and the hydrostatic head decreases (and therefore the pressure decreases).

Application
The Venturi effect is observed or used in the following objects:
  • in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for oil and chemical products;
  • in burners that mix air and combustible gases in the grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
  • in Venturi tubes - constricting elements of Venturi flow meters;
  • in Venturi flow meters;
  • in ejector-type water aspirators, which create small vacuums using kinetic energy tap water;
  • sprayers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or aromatizing the air.
  • carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to draw gasoline into the inlet air stream of an internal combustion engine;
  • in automated swimming pool cleaners, which use water pressure to collect sediment and debris;
  • in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

Now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from scrap materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But I liked this option the most, since it is a smaller analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1



Since I don’t have a traffic cone, I decided to settle on this design, assembled from plastic pipes for sewerage. An undoubted advantage is the availability and low cost of material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes


Please pay attention to the mistake that the master made. The garbage collection pipe should be located like this:

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
The following video shows similar design at work:

And finally, a slightly modified version:

An example of creating a cyclone filter for a household vacuum cleaner in a workshop from Nikita Supryagin.

I finally finished the cyclonic separator filter for the vacuum cleaner. Since I work with wood and there is always an abundance of shavings and sawdust, and the household vacuum cleaner gets clogged when collecting these sawdust, I decided to build a cyclone. After watching enough videos and articles on the Internet, I settled on.

I reworked it a little, assembled it, tested it, and was pleased with the result. Approximately 95-98% of all debris remains in the filter. Below I am attaching a photo with descriptions.

So, for work we needed: an old traffic cone, sewer pipes by 40 mm, at least one angle of 45 degrees, a piece of plywood, chipboard scraps, Hot glue gun with rods, paint bucket can.

We cut out the top cover that covers the cone from plywood with a jigsaw. In it, a pair of holes are made with a core drill of a suitable diameter - one in the center, and the second eccentric.

We insert the tube into the central one, with the extension upward (the hose from the vacuum cleaner will subsequently be inserted into it). We glue the joint of the tube with hot glue.

A pipe is also glued into the second hole, but we put an angle of 45 degrees on it (which is the swirler) - the flow, escaping at an angle, twists in a spiral. The angle must be inside the cone.

This cover is glued onto the top of the traffic cone, covering the large hole.

The cone is sawn off from below and glued into the lid of the jar. The lid itself was additionally reinforced with chipboard scraps.

These scraps with a hole in the center are pulled together with self-tapping screws.

I hope my experience is useful to someone.

When carrying out repairs and construction work a lot of garbage appears. Sawdust, shavings, scraps of materials mixed with dust must be removed regularly. Regular sweeping with a mop is excluded due to the specifics of the work, if dust and small particles can stick to the surface, for example, after priming or painting.

An ordinary vacuum cleaner will not cope with such debris or will quickly break down. Household electrical appliances are designed for medium short-term load.

For such cases, specialized equipment is produced. Construction vacuum cleaner can work for quite a long time without stopping, has significant power, and uses completely different household vacuum cleaners, filter systems.

When should you use a construction vacuum cleaner?

Those who are constantly faced with construction, repair and carpentry work know about the need for timely cleaning of the workplace at the end of the stage. Cleaning can be done multiple times in one day, so it’s reasonable to want to make the process easier for yourself.

Pieces of foam and polyethylene film , scraps of gypsum board, chipped plaster, dust from cutting aerated concrete - all this debris settles not only on horizontal surfaces, but is also electrified and attached to vertical walls.

Cleaning with a mop and dustpan is not always appropriate due to large areas, and washing will only turn dry dirt into wet slurry, especially in unfinished rooms.

Ordinary household appliance Due to the small size of the dust container, it will quickly become clogged and will have to be continuously cleaned. If large particles get in, there is a high risk of breaking the equipment.

It is in such conditions the best solution will use a construction vacuum cleaner.

Pros and cons of a construction vacuum cleaner

Greater power allows professional equipment work without interruption for a long time, and the long hose provides access to remote areas without the need to carry the vacuum cleaner or interrupt work.

But it also has disadvantages:

  • High price. If periodic or one-time work is required, purchasing a new expensive tool is not practical.
  • Large size and weight.

Some craftsmen have come up with a way out of the situation in the form of an additional option to the existing technology. At fairly low costs, you can assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. This design will increase the capabilities of an existing conventional household vacuum cleaner.

Making a cyclone with your own hands

On the Internet there is huge selection instructions for self-production cyclone filter, including attached drawings and photographs. But they are united standard set components.

So, what do we need:

Assembly instructions.

The main indicator that a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is assembled correctly with your own hands will be debris collecting at the bottom or settling on the walls of the container, while the suction will be fast and high-quality. Do not forget to check the tightness of the structure.

The history of the cyclone filter

The creator of cyclone filter technology is James Dyson. It was he who first made a filter with operation based on the action of centrifugal force. Why did this device become so popular and in demand that the inventor filed a patent for it?

The filter consists of two chambers. Under the influence of centrifugal force inside the unit, the debris begins to swirl into the funnel. Large trash at the same time, it settles in the first chamber, the outer one, and dust and light debris collects on inside. This way, clean air comes out through the top hole.

The main advantages of the cyclone filter:

  • no need for dust collection bags and their constant replacement;
  • compact filter sizes;
  • quiet operation;
  • An easy-to-remove lid allows you to regularly check the level of contamination and promptly dispose of garbage;
  • speed and efficiency of work.

A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter can be used both at home and for professional purposes.

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