Country fence made of chain-link mesh. Making a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands

In some dacha cooperatives, it is impossible to install a fence made of slate and other materials between plots, because they heavily shade small areas. In this case, a fence made of chain-link mesh would be a good solution - it does not prevent the sun from entering the area and does not impede the natural circulation of air. Chain-link is an inexpensive material that can last a very long time. Its additional advantage is that it can be used as a support for climbing plants. The author of this successful invention was Karl Rabitz. The mesh began to be used at the end of the 19th century, initially it was used during plastering work.

Chainlink – available material, which any owner of a summer cottage can afford to purchase. In order to create a chain-link fence with your own hands, in addition to the mesh, you will need thick wire, reinforcing rods, cable and support posts.

A chain-link fence can be an excellent hedge or serve as a support for climbing plants. In this case, the site will be much more beautiful

Today, manufacturers offer three types of chain-link mesh:

• non-galvanized mesh is one of the cheapest, it is better not to consider this option, because... within a few months it may become covered with rust;
• galvanized chain-link is the most common - it is slightly more expensive than non-galvanized chain-link, but does not rust;
• Plasticized chain-link is a metal mesh, which is coated with multi-colored polymers on top to protect it from corrosion.

The last option is very practical, and such a mesh looks much more aesthetically pleasing than a metal one. Therefore, plasticized chain-link, although it appeared recently, is already actively used by our gardeners.

When choosing a mesh, you should pay attention to the size of the cells; the smaller their size, the stronger and more expensive the mesh. A mesh with cells of 40-50 mm and a roll width of 1.5 m is quite suitable as a fence for a summer cottage.

Option #1 – “tension” chain-link fence

The design of a chain-link fence can be different. The easiest way to make a fence is to stretch the mesh between the posts. The poles can be metal, wood or concrete.

A simple way to make a tension fence from chain-link without using rods - the mesh is stretched between the posts and hung on hooks. Of course, over time it may sag, but such a fence can last quite a long time

The number of pillars depends on the distance between them and the length of the fence. As practice shows, best distance between fence posts metal mesh– 2.5 m. Used pipes that are not affected by corrosion can be used as pillars. Now they sell ready-made fence posts, already painted, with hooks. Wooden poles must be treated along their entire length before installation. protective composition. You can also use concrete pillars and attach a mesh to them with wire or a clamp.

The height of the pillars is calculated as follows. If there is a gap between the ground and the fence, you need to add 5-10 cm to the width of the mesh, and then another meter and a half, taking into account the underground part. In the end you will succeed average height post required for installing the future fence. The load on the corner posts will be slightly greater; they should be dug deeper, so their length should exceed the length of ordinary posts by about 20 cm.

It is better to concrete the bases of all pillars for greater strength. The posts are the frame of the fence, after you install them, you can start attaching the mesh. After the concrete has hardened, hooks for attaching the mesh are attached or welded to the posts (if the post is metal). Suitable materials for fastenings include screws, rods, nails, wire - any material that bends into a hook. We straighten the roll with the mesh and install it at the corner post, hang the mesh on the hooks.

To ensure good tension and strength of the structure, we vertically thread a rod or thick wire into the first row of mesh cells, attach the rod to a wooden post or weld it to a metal one. The mesh secured in this way will not bend or sag, as often happens without such fastening.

Then the roll is unwound over the span, to the next post. A little further from the place where the mesh connects to the post, we thread the rod in the same way. We hold on to the rod and pull the mesh; if you don’t use the rod and just pull it with your hands, you can tighten the mesh unevenly. It is best to do this together - one person at the bottom edge, the other at the top.

Now the reinforcement is threaded horizontally into the mesh at a distance of at least 5 cm on both edges, top and bottom. Horizontal rods are welded or attached to the posts. If you tension the mesh without rods, over time it will sag, and the rods will maintain its tension.

Diagram of a fence made of galvanized mesh with reinforcement drawn along the top and bottom side. This type of fence is a stronger structure.

The fence is almost ready, now you need to bend the hooks on the posts and paint the posts. It is better to wrap the protruding wire “antennae” down so that no one is injured. It is convenient to thread the wire through the top row of cells and wrap the protruding edges around it.

Here the “antennae” are neatly bent down towards the rod, you can dry things on such a fence, there is no risk of injury

The “antennae” of the upper cells must be bent to avoid accidental injury. In this photo they are slightly bent - there is a risk of injury or tearing clothes

If you do not want to use reinforcement and concrete pillars, you can use the simplest technique presented in this video:

Option #2 – erecting a fence from sections

To make a fence of this type, you need sections where the mesh will be mounted. First, similar to the installation of a tension fence, markings are made and pillars are installed.

This diagram can be taken as a basis for determining the proportions of the dimensions of the future structure (click to enlarge)

You will need to buy a corner measuring 40/5 mm to make the frame. We determine the length of the frame in this way: subtract approximately 10-15 cm from the distance between the pillars - this is its length. We subtract the same amount from the height of the pillar above the soil level - the resulting amount is the width of the frame. The corners are welded into rectangular structures. You can make the size of the sections based on the size of the mesh (1.5 -2 m), you can unwind the roll and, if necessary, reduce the size of the mesh to the desired size using an angle grinder.

Then strips of metal are welded horizontally to the pillars (length 15-25 cm, width 5 cm, cross-section 5 mm). Along the edges of the pillar you need to retreat 20 cm, install a section between the two pillars and, using welding, attach it to the horizontal strips. Now all that remains is to paint the new fence.

Rods with a cross section of 4 mm are threaded through the mesh from 4 sides, first into the outer row, then from above and below, the mesh must be stretched well and the rods welded to the corners of the section. (The rods are welded to the horizontal corners). It turns out a section from a corner with a chain-link mesh welded onto the rods from the inside

It will not be possible to make a tension fence on an inclined area; in an inclined position, the mesh cannot be tensioned. For a sloping area, you can make a sectional fence by installing sections on both sides of the posts at different distances along the soil level.

Every owner familiar with welding can make a fence from a chain-link mesh on their own. As a rule, 2-3 people cope with the work in a relatively short time. Go for it!

A plot of land with a house that is not surrounded by a fence looks bare, and besides, it will be difficult to live in such a space. Whatever you say, we have plenty of curious people, and it will be difficult to preserve our property from the encroachments of strangers.

For fencing houses, strong and reliable structures are usually created. There are several that have gained popularity among summer residents. However, for dachas you can use lighter materials that do not require high costs. Such a structure is a chain-link fence. At the same time, you can build it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Steel mesh is considered an ideal option for creating a fence in a country house. She has a number undeniable advantages, such as:

• quite low cost.

Most owners summer cottages can afford to purchase this material;

• long operational period.

A well-protected mesh with galvanized coating can last up to half a century. At the same time, it will not lose its presentation and will fully retain all technological qualities;

• possibility of self-installation;
• low maintenance requirements;
• the ability of the material to pass air.

This is very important for the plants that are on the site.

The main disadvantages of chain-link:

Incomplete protection of the site from the views of strangers. To protect your personal space, you will have to plant climbing plants along the fence;

Insecurity from external noise, strong gusts of wind, as well as dust and debris;

Possibility of rust coating on some types of mesh.

Types of produced chain-link mesh

Currently, our industry produces several types of mesh. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

The cheapest type is non-galvanized mesh. Despite its availability, it is quite expensive, since the untreated surface needs protection from moisture. Such fencing quickly rusts without proper care fails.

The most popular among owners is galvanized chain-link mesh. It's a little more expensive, but it has protective layer, which makes the material better and more durable.

This type of fencing does not require special care.

Modern plasticized material, which recently appeared on our markets, is, of course, inferior to galvanized mesh in price, but superior to it in quality. The polymer layer with which the metal is coated during production not only reliably protects the mesh from the effects of negative factors, but can also be painted in the most different colors. This makes the material attractive to designers.

Types of mesh fences

Despite the simplicity of the material, its installation as a fence has several types. A chain-link fence can be:

• string tension;
• residential hanging;
• hinged along horizontal guides;
• assembled from sections;
• whole of sections.

The string design is the simplest and not very reliable.

The wire-hinged type is more rigid, since the mesh fabric here is hung on strong rods or pipes. But if there is mechanical pressure it will have to be replaced a large number of spans than in the first case. On the ground high density such a fence can be mounted using a simplified version.

The design, hung along guide rails, is more complex in installation and requires some experience. But it can be installed on not very stable soils.

Fencing made from prefabricated sections is characterized by high installation costs and complexity of work. In addition, the design is not very durable, although it looks attractive.

One-piece sectional mesh fencing is the strongest. But they are too expensive, which makes them less in demand. Moreover, they cannot be repaired.

Types of posts for a chain-link fence

Mesh fences are mounted on wooden, steel or asbestos cement posts. In this regard, you should pay attention to some important points:

Cement-based products must be concreted. In addition, you can purchase ready-made poles with ready-made fastenings.

The depth of the hole that is made in order to install the posts for the mesh fence should be about a meter. This is dictated by the load that the curtains place on them.

Size cross section of such supports depends on the type of material used and can be adjusted in each specific case.

Strengthening supports for chain-link fences on various types of soil

On low-heaving, loamy and gristly soils, the supports are strengthened by dense driving or digging into the ground. In places where the freezing level is low, partial concreting is used.

Creating a cushion of sand and gravel, which is called butting, is done to strengthen wooden posts on any soil.
In all other cases, full concreting of the supports is used.

Installation of a chain-link fence

The supports for such a structure are buried to a shallow depth. This is due to the fact that the structure is held in place by well-tensioned strings and does not require additional reinforcement.

IMPORTANT: The diameter of the strings must be greater than 4 mm. They are tensioned manually and placed on fastenings mounted on poles. No welding is required for this assembly.

In order to properly stretch the chain-link mesh and make a fence, you need to invite an assistant. Work should start from the corner. The end of the mesh is secured to a corner support. It is better to first fix a steel rod on it so that the mesh does not sag too much.

Then the required amount of material is unwound and pulled onto the next support.

A short training video on how to install a chain-link mesh with your own hands:

After the mesh is stretched, rods are pulled through it along the upper and lower horizontal perimeter. Later they are attached to the supports. All spans of the structure should be installed according to this principle.

The nuances of installing chain-link mesh

If miscalculations are made when installing the fence, then all the work will have to be redone. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully perform each item of work.
Areas where there are large uneven soils require special attention. If possible, they should be aligned.

But if the terrain has significant elevation differences, then you will have to divide the perimeter into segments and install support pillars on each of them. In this case, the mesh will need to be cut. The size of the pillars will also be adjusted. In low areas you will install longer posts, and in higher areas they will be much lower. After the mesh is tensioned, the structure will look even.
But it is best to choose a sectional type fence in such an area.

If you need to fence your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, perfect option– chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types last 4–5 years, others – 30 or more.

Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull it between the supports or make separate sections using welding. A variety of pillars are used – wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.

Chain-link mesh - features of different types

All products use black low-carbon metal wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm, intertwined with each other. Cells have strict square shape or rhombic with angles of 60°, sizes from 2.5 to 100 millimeters. The thickness of the material and clearance parameters affect the scope of application. The main purpose is to create fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding poultry and animals.

Some manufacturers pre-treat the raw materials, but this is not a necessary condition. Depending on this, there are three types of chain-link:

1. 1. Made from ordinary wire without protection, which leads to rapid corrosion, which shortens the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the most cheap material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of replacement in the future. Painting will prolong service life, but should be applied immediately after installation and then repeated at least every three years.
2. 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but due to the protective layer it also lasts much longer. The best option in the price-quality ratio, therefore it deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
3. 3. Relatively recently, plasticized chain-link has appeared; polymer paint was initially applied to its metal wire base. It is not afraid of precipitation, is more beautiful than its predecessors, and has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, and light shades.

Confidently advancing in the market Alternative option– Gitter mesh. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3–6 mm, held together by spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. In appearance it resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.

Individual elements are bent - stiffening ribs are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorativeness. Its approximate cost is 390 rubles per square meter made of metal 4 mm with polymer coating. For 1 m2 of products made from 5 mm rods you will have to pay 550 rubles.

A chain-link fence has the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite its relative cheapness, if installed carefully, it will decorate any area. If you show your imagination, you can create a unique design with your own hands. Possible options:

1. 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is performed on a coarse mesh with thin wire.
2. 2. Landscaping. Climbing plants are planted along the fence.
3. 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from insulated wire, pieces of plastic.
4. 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.

In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:

• light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
• resistance to external climatic influences, which differs for different types of mesh, as well as mechanical resistance - chain-link fencing is difficult to destroy;
• does not create shadows, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
• does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
• a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, size - the material is available in every hardware store;
• It is installed quickly, only a sectional fence is a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.

Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products and install the fence in accordance with the recommended technology.

Preparation - drafting, materials

To build a fence, you will need a mesh, support posts, and everything else, depending on the chosen design. Drawing up a project will allow you to correctly calculate their number. To do this, measure the area around the perimeter and draw a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, and various buildings are taken into account.

The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable when it is uneven - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of gates, gates and pillars.

Installation methods

Preliminary sketches, which so far contain only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of certain materials: mesh, pillars. To find out how much everything else you need, you should stop at one of possible technologies.

The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports and screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you insert wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At a minimum, it is stretched from above, better - additionally at the bottom, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. The required footage is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two or three.

The most attractive look is a fence consisting of separate sections. In length they are equal to the gap between the pillars minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. Required amount metal is counted along the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used on uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.

A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It doesn't have to be made from it. individual elements, can be stretched in cells from below and above, welded to the supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the amount of material needed and location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with differences in terrain.

Grid selection

The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m long, 1.2–1.5 m wide, sometimes two-meter and even 3 or 4 m long. The height of the fence depends on this. The required length is equal to the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by the total number. For significant volumes, correct calculation will save money.

The material and coating were discussed above. Another important indicator that affects the quality of the structure is the cell size, which ranges from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and durable the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.

Choose from purely practical point view, taking into account the purposes for which it is planned to be used. If for an internal fence where chickens or adult birds will be located, there are one set of parameters, but to prevent larger living creatures from entering, there are others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the priority is the cross-section of the wire and its type.

The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It soon becomes deformed, sags, and holes appear.

Taking into account all the indicators, it is recommended to use a chain-link mesh with cells of 40–60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized, for the external fencing of a summer cottage. It has the best price-quality ratio.

Another important sign good stuff– condition of the roll edges along the width. For products manufactured in large enterprises using modern equipment, they are curved, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do them manually, so the buyer has to bend them.

What kind of poles are used?

From all points of view the greatest advantages have metal pipes. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening can be welded to such poles without any problems. The recommended diameter of the round profile is 60 mm, the cross-section of the rectangular one is 40×60 mm.

You can also find the material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will cost much less. Painted pipes with hooks specially designed for sectional fences have appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but there are fewer worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffening ribs that are formed due to the geometry. It’s easier to weld fasteners to them and they look more beautiful.

Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has a significant drawback - it is not resistant to weather conditions and is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, while soft ones are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if you properly treat them against fungi and rot, and constantly paint them, they will last for 20 years.

In practice, wood is used extremely rarely for permanent fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy the material for 70 rubles. per linear meter.

Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support; it must be done special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, it will be necessary to install plugs, otherwise the water collected inside will freeze in winter and tear the support.

Brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fencing. These materials are very different - an impressive massive brick structure and a light airy mesh. Maybe a sectional fence. In addition, you can’t just put them on the ground - a foundation is required.

Concrete supports are affordable and their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it’s inconvenient to fasten, you have to invent something, and this is a waste of metal and time. In addition, delivery to an area remote from the store will be a problem - you won’t be able to carry it inside a passenger car.

Marking the territory and installing poles

They start by cleaning the area where the fence will go. It’s better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you won’t be distracted or irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are placed in the corners and a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the locations of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.

Calculate the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely to work. Then the total length is divided by the average value. For example, a side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 it’s 18.5 columns, by 2.5 it’s 14.8. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When dividing 37 meters into 16 racks, the distance between them turns out to be 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.

Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Holes are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all craftsmen agree with this statement. In each area the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. In some cases, half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.

If the soil is loose or heaving, install below the freezing depth. Then the pole will definitely not be pushed up in winter. Another way is to make a hole twice as wide, throw small stones and gravel into the space around it and tamp it down. Concrete is placed 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created at the bottom; the supports will definitely not move. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable method of fixation.

Metal pipes can be hammered in with a sledgehammer, but the upper part must be protected from deformation with a piece of board or plywood.

It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an exact vertical position with this installation method. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole halfway, install a support and finish it to the required depth.

Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic down to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many owners use recycled engine oil, resin, or burn it over a fire. The metal is cleaned of rust and coated with an inhibitor to prevent corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen. It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line.

1. The work is done step by step as follows:
2. 1. Install pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the heaviest load, so they are reinforced with spacers. Next in line are the pillars where the fence breaks.
3. 2. They all act as landmarks between which the rope is pulled. Next comes the turn of the gate and wicket. The supports for them are often reinforced and must be concreted.

3. The intermediate posts are placed last, keeping the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. Amendments may need to be made. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but also be sure to control the verticality with a plumb line.

In an area that has a significant slope, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh. There is only one way out of the situation - terracing the relief. At the site of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, and the canvas is separated along the width. The second part is set on a different level. A sectional fence is mounted according to the same principle.

A few days after installing the pillars, when the concrete has hardened, the final stage begins. They start by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will go. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the net does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When metal comes into contact with the ground, even galvanized metal, it begins to rust faster.

Next, they provide for attaching the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeter sections of rod are installed. The thickness is chosen so that later without special effort bend them. If the pillars are wooden, nails are driven along the entire length every 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement and concrete, soft wire or plastic clamps are prepared.

Start with a corner support. This is explained by the fact that when going around it, it is difficult to tighten the mesh well. You will have to separate the whole piece, and this is extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the outer cells are secured in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long rod into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wrapped with wire. This will ensure even tension.

The work will require the help of one more person, or better yet two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are located a little further behind it. Two people - one on top, the other below, grab it with their hands and pull it towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between posts.

Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. The wire is removed from the outermost row, the finished fabric is applied to the next one and weaved between them. The result is a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground and secured in this position, which is more convenient than hanging it in weight.

You may come across advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous sheet. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will get in the way, lying under your feet, and it will be inconvenient and difficult to work due to the large weight.

To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is passed through the cells at the same time, which is fixed on the supports. Make one top row or several depending on the height of the fence. If it is long, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut from different sides. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.

If the antennae on the mesh are straight, they are folded down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated by retreating one cell from the last pillar. All that remains is to paint the supports if you used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.

Sectional fence - assembly instructions

All preliminary work is similar to the installation of a tension fence. You need to make a frame inside which the mesh is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and its width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size using a grinder and welded into a rectangle.

Unwind the roll, separate the piece, removing the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is advisable to foresee this and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - buying a chain-link according to the size of the frame.

It is more difficult to tighten the mesh inside the section than without it. To do the work with your own hands efficiently, do everything step by step:

• rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the outermost cells;
• on one side they weld it inside the corner;
• the fittings are installed below and above in the same way;
• they grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
• tension and finally fix the fencing element inside the frame.

Another method involves welding pieces of wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm as often as possible internal parties corners. A mesh is put on them, then folded over. Here it is important to calculate where to install the hooks. To prevent the fence from sagging, they are welded at the top of each cell.

When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4–5 mm thick are attached to the posts (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports they should protrude enough to allow the frame to be attached. Two pieces are required on each side, installed at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.

A sectional fence is more difficult and more expensive to make than a simple tension fence, but its appearance is much more attractive.

Cost of a chain link fence

Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering turnkey construction of chain-link fences. The cost of one linear meter is from 320 to 430 rubles, depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.

Many people prefer to do it with their own hands, winning in financially. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme, it is possible various combinations– metal with wood, concrete and the like. The most expensive are sectional fences, which require a lot of iron. Tables offered are based on retail prices large manufacturers as of 2018.

product name	Dimensions		price, rub.
	Cells, mm	Rolls (width and length), m
Chainlink mesh with PVC coating	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	956
		1.8×10	1147
		2.0×10	1274
Chain-link mesh, not galvanized	10×10×1.0	1.0×10	944
	15×15×1.0	1.0×10	596
	20×20×1.4	1.5×10	956
Galvanized mesh	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	1283
		1.8×10	1539
		2.0×10	1711

Cost table for 1 linear meter of metal products

Prices may vary depending on different regions, but the presented data allows you to navigate when choosing a chain-link fencing model.

German construction worker Karl Rabitz, patenting his plaster mesh, and I couldn’t imagine how many uses it would find later. One of the most common is a fence. Chain-link mesh, or simply chain-link, is inexpensive; it’s not difficult to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, and it performance very high.

By the way, “chain-link” has become a common noun, and this word must be used according to all the rules of the Russian language. Lovers use chain-link fences to build funny fences, made from improvised material, but quite reliable, and/or not without artistic merit: You can make a chain-link fence without experience with 1-2 unqualified assistants around a plot of 20 acres in a weekend, not counting gates, if you know the features of this material and how to work with it. Their description is one of the purposes of this article. The second is to talk about some little-known useful qualities

chain-link fences, which we’ll finish quickly so we can get serious about the technology. Note: further, when describing the types of chain-link fences, we will, as far as possible, suggest how to make one or another without welding, if in this case This is generally possible. Country electrical wiring most often simply cannot withstand the operating current. welding machine

What is good about a chain-link fence?

First of all, excellent visibility, high light transmission and breathability. It is impossible to fence off small areas with blind fences; they shade plants and disrupt the circulation of ground layers of air, which aggravates the effects of frosts, dry winds, etc. A fence made of welded mesh also allows light and air to pass through, but its fabric is not voluminous. The flattened spirals from which the Chainlink mesh is wound break the dense air flow into small turbulences, causing the wind energy to drop and its effect on buildings and plantings to decrease. The difference in aerodynamics is clearly visible in icy conditions (see figure on the right): the stronger the ice storm, the less the chain-link allows it to pass through. In general, over long periods of time (from 10 years), areas fenced with chain-link suffer less from the vagaries of the elements than those surrounded by some other fence.

The three-dimensional structure of the chain-link also gives it high elasticity when stretched. This is important primarily for playgrounds: even if a small troublemaker hits the fence instead of a ball, there will be no serious injuries. A properly constructed chain-link fence will withstand a frontal collision with a passenger car at speeds of up to 40-50 km/h without fatal consequences for the driver, passengers, car and himself.

Finally, the high elasticity of the tensioned chain-link in combination with its volumetric structure determines the poor surmountability of a properly made fence from it: it bends and springs tensioned chain link as a single surface. This is essential not so much against intruders as when keeping livestock and other domestic animals. It is equally difficult for a cat and a bull to jump over a chain-link fence, break through it, or get entangled in it. Unwanted wild aliens in the farm yard, too.

Installation of a chain-link fence is possible in at least 5 different ways, which provide significantly different performance qualities of the fence:

• Tensioned along a string;
• Hinged along veins;
• Hinged by slugs;
• Sectional teams;
• Sectional one-piece.

A fence made of chain-link tensioned along a string (cable or wire, item 1 in the figure) is the most permeable, elastic and wind-resistant. Material consumption is minimal. Disadvantages - labor intensity, because the pillars must certainly be completely concreted (see below), as well as mandatory jibs for corner, gate and, possibly, intermediate pillars. Installation requires special equipment, some of which, however, can be replaced with devices from improvised means.

In a fence suspended along veins, a chain-link web is hung instead of an elastic string on rigid rods (item 2) or a small corrugated pipe, which is the vein. It is easiest to build a chain-link fence on veins, which is why they most often make these for themselves. The permeability and, so to speak, “wind-softening” properties of a chain-link fence on veins are almost the same as that of a tensioned one along a string. However, if it is accidentally caught by a truck delivering something, most likely at least 2 spans will have to be replaced completely. On dense, well-bearing soils, pillars under a fence suspended along veins can be installed using simplified methods.

A fence made of chain-link, hung on slings (boards, steel profile or round plastic pipe, corner), pos. 3, is more material- and labor-intensive than the suspended one along the veins, but you can install it on any more or less load-bearing soil (more than 0.5 kg/sq. cm, if the soil is not watered) by simply hammering or digging in the pillars, because . supports with slabs form a single, fairly strong and rigid structure. A chain-link fence on wooden posts is no less durable than on steel ones. In addition, it can be built on a slope without any tricks, see figure:

The fact is that the chain-link keeps its shape when skewed up to 6 degrees, which gives a slope of 1:10, i.e. 1 m by 10 m. However mechanical properties At the same time, the chain-links fall catastrophically, but in a chain-link fence this is unimportant, because Almost all operational loads are borne by supports with rigid strapping.

A prefabricated sectional fence made of chain-link (item 4) is expensive, labor-intensive and, by the way, less durable (it is easier to demolish or cut off the entire frame than to break through a solid mesh panel), and is easier to overcome. Its only advantage is that it is more or less decent appearance and lower dynamic loads on the mesh, which is especially important for colored plasticized chain-link, see below. Solid sectional fences made of chain-link (item 5) are strong, difficult to overcome, visually visible, but expensive, labor-intensive and difficult to repair. These are most often used to fence children's, sports and industrial areas, so solid sectional fences are not considered further.

chain-link fences, which we’ll finish quickly so we can get serious about the technology. If you are going to make a sectional fence from mesh, then first of all you need to consider the option of welded flat mesh. The chain-link in this design has no advantages over it, but welded mesh cheaper and easier to install.

Net

Installation of a chain-link fence is not possible from any type, of which there are dozens, if not hundreds, in production and sale. “Black” chain-link made of structural steel without coating (item 1 in the figure) is a plastering and reinforcing mesh, not intended for external use: it rusts quickly, does not hold paint well, is quite fragile and begins to tear from the winds even sooner than it rusts.

Fences are most often used with galvanized chain-link made of wire of increased ductility (item 2), the so-called. gray It costs approx. 7-12% more expensive than black. A cheerful fence can be made from plasticized chain-link (coated with colored PVC, item 3), but only sectional. The solid fabric of their colored chain-link frays in the wind, the plastic at the joints wears out over the winter, and the mesh rusts. Very quickly, because in this case, the metal is eaten by capillary moisture. Plasticized chain-link costs about 1.5 times more than sulfur.

chain-link fences, which we’ll finish quickly so we can get serious about the technology. V wide sale There is also a chain link made of stainless steel wire, pos. 4. A wonderful fence dream, but like all wonderful dreams, in reality it is very expensive.

Mesh and wire

Fences are usually made from vertical chain-link with a mesh of 50-60 mm, from wire with a diameter of 1.6-2.2 mm, pos. 5. To fence a household yard with birds, you need a more expensive mesh with a mesh no larger than 30 mm, otherwise the chicks and ducklings will scatter, and it will not be difficult for ferrets and weasels to get into the house. In this case, the lower gap of the fence (see below) is covered with boards or slate.

A high-strength mesh made of wire up to 4-5 mm thick (item 6) is needed to fence a paddock or pasture for cattle. It is difficult to work with it, especially to splice panels (see below), because reinforced chain-link is heavy and rigid.

A very strong and elastic type of chain-link with a small, up to 20 mm, highly flattened mesh, the so-called. armored mesh (item 7, remember the old beds?). But it is much more expensive than a regular fence chain-link, and it is even more difficult to work with. And finally, horizontal chain-link, pos. 8: it is impossible to make the joint of its panels in the fence invisible.

Splicing and tensioning

Chain-link mesh is available in widths starting from 1.1 m in rolls of 10 m. For fences, 10-meter rolls with a width of 1.5-3 m are usually purchased. It is impossible to turn large rolls without lifting mechanisms. That is, the fence will need several rolls, the panels of which (if the fence is not sectional) need to be spliced ​​into one sheet.

There is no need to splice the chain-link panels into a fabric with wire (item 1 in the figure) - it is ugly and fragile. To splice chain-link webs, one spiral is carefully unscrewed from the edge of one of them (one layer) and, screwed into the 2 outer layers of the fabrics, they are spliced, pos. 2.

Also, when installing a chain-link fence, the mesh must be tensioned. Especially - if the fence is tensioned along a string, then the mesh should be stretched tightly. In the methods for this, it is recommended to use a screw lanyard (pos. 3) or hoists, but with improvised means and with 2 assistants you can do it easier, pos. 4:

• Sections of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm or more are tucked into the outer layers, and bridles made of textile or synthetic cable with a thickness of 12 mm or more are knitted to their ends.
• On one side, the bridle is carried along the hollow on the support 4a, thrown onto a firmly driven “boy” stake with a support between it and the outermost post, and a cable collar 4b is made, without tightening it tightly yet.
• On the other hand, a stake (waga) 4c is placed in the hole with an emphasis with another bridle thrown over it.
• One worker holds the collar vertically, holding the bridle on it so that it does not slip, and the other wraps the collar as tightly as possible.
• The worker on the gate holds it, and the worker on the gate pulls it towards himself. The mesh will be tensioned with a force of approx. equal to the force of hoists made of 4 blocks.
• Workers hold the mesh taut, and the foreman secures it.

Mesh attachment

The mesh is attached to the outer pillars by inserting the same reinforcement into the layers closest to the pillars from the inside. Then the rods are pulled to the posts in 4-5 places with clamps and, if necessary, the rods (not the mesh!) are additionally secured to the posts by welding. The mesh is attached to the intermediate posts in the same way and is thus tightly stretched. Depending on the type of fence, the method of attaching the mesh may be different, see below.

Pillars

Chain-link fence posts can be wooden, steel, round or profile pipe or round from an asbestos-cement pipe; in the latter case, reinforcement and concreting are required, as for piles. Ready-made posts for mesh fences are produced with hooks (for tension and hanging fences) or mounting feet (for sectional ones). The pillars need to be buried in the ground at least 80 cm, and preferably 120 cm or deeper. Here the role is no longer played by the depth of freezing and frost heaving of the soil, but by the lateral operational loads on the pole. The minimum cross-sectional dimensions of posts for a chain-link fence are as follows:

• Pine or spruce for a fence with a panel along a string - 100x100 mm.
• The same, oak or larch - 80x80 mm.
• Steel made of corrugated pipe with a wall of 3 mm - 60x60 mm for a fence with a panel along a string or sectional and 40x40 mm for others.
• Steel from a round pipe with a wall of 2.5 mm - dia. 80 and 60 mm respectively.
• Asbestos-cement - with a diameter of 120 mm for a fence with a panel along a string and from 100 mm for a suspended panel.

chain-link fences, which we’ll finish quickly so we can get serious about the technology. Sectional chain-link fences cannot be made on wooden or asbestos-cement posts. It is not advisable to make fences with hanging panels on wooden posts, because the pillars in such structures are not prestressed. Asbestos cement fence posts are not repairable.

Strengthening pillars in the ground is possible in the following ways (see figure):

1. By driving or digging - on dense, not very heaving, non-watered soils: dry loams and clays, gravelly and gristly soils;
2. With partial concreting - in areas with shallow freezing depth on soils with bearing capacity from 1.7 kg/sq. see Practically - on any stable soil;
3. Butting - recommended for wooden posts on soils as in the previous one. p. A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 20-30 cm is poured under the pillar, the rubble is poured in layers, 15-20 cm thick, compacted and sprinkled with sand. Properly prepared wooden posts (see below) in such nests last for 50-70 years or more;
4. Full concreting - in all other cases. Under the pillar there is an anti-heavy cushion, as in the previous one. P; the solution from M150 is poured in layers, 10-15 cm each. The next layer is poured as soon as the previous one. will begin to set. The post is secured with temporary braces until the concrete reaches 50% strength (3-7 days).

How to prepare wooden posts?

A chain-link fence on wooden posts can be just as durable and reliable as a steel fence if they are properly prepared. The maintainability of a fence on wooden posts is higher, because It's easier to repair or replace a broken wood pole than a bent steel pole. The preparation of wooden fence posts is as follows:

• The blank bars are impregnated with waste motor oil or any oil biocide-hydrophobizer (water-repellent composition).
• Underground part + approx. 50 cm of above-ground surface is impregnated twice with bitumen mastic.
• Underground part + approx. 30 cm aboveground is wrapped with roofing felt, tightening the wrapper with thin soft wire. Do not fasten with nails or self-tapping screws!
• Top end installed pole painted over with thick oil paint (red lead, ocher, white) regardless of whether the pillar will be finished in any other way.

How to install fences?

The gap between the lower edge of the mesh and the ground in any chain-link fence is needed from 15-20 cm. Otherwise, an inconvenience will form there, where pests and weeds will grow and breed. To prevent livestock from injuring their muzzles on the net while trying to reach the fresh meat, and to prevent birds from running away, the lower gap is covered with boards or slate so that they can be removed if necessary.

By the strings

Step-by-step instructions on how to install the most common chain-link fence on 3 strings are given in Fig. A 3-string fence is very elastic as a whole, so in this case the pits for the posts are shallow - frost heaving can ruin such a fence only on very and excessively heaving soils. In this case, they hold each other from distortion of the pillars with the help of tightly stretched strings. The minimum permissible diameters of steel wire and cable strings are 4 and 3 mm, respectively, but usually 4 mm cable is used for the strings, and most often - 6 mm wire rod. You can still tighten it by hand and, of course, it is stronger. This fence can be installed without welding. Type 1 wire holders are hooks on poles that are driven in with a hammer; Type 2 – metal screws with hooks.

If the fence has corners, then the corner posts need 2 struts at 90 degrees. And if the length of the fence from corner to corner exceeds 10-12 m, then on soft soils (sandy loam, sand, black soil, gray and peaty soils) braces for intermediate pillars are also required, pos. 1 on next rice. Gate posts can in any case be without struts if the gate opening is arched or with a crossbar. Also, without bracing the intermediate posts, a fence can be made from chain-link on strings with wooden posts, pos. 2.

The net is placed on the strings after they are stretched. It is enough to grab the mesh to the string with a “mustache” (pos. 3), because the string plays together with the mesh. If the posts are round, then the chain-link panel can be circled without breaks (except for gates and wickets) around the entire perimeter, pos. 4. Also, due to its greater strength round pipes bending, in this case it is possible not to concrete the jibs, but to spread them between the pillars.

chain-link fences, which we’ll finish quickly so we can get serious about the technology. All chain-link fences along strings can be made without welding.

On the veins

A fence made of chain-link on wire rod strings is already a transitional option to a fence with a hanging panel. In “real” hanging chain-link fences, the upper and lower strings are replaced with rigid reinforcing rods - veins inserted into the mesh cells. The veins are introduced into the rows of cells in advance as the roll unfolds. The upper and lower veins are attached to the posts in the same way as vertical ones: by throwing them into hooks, using clamps, or welding. 2 options for installing chain-link fences with hanging panels are shown in the video:

Installation of chain-link fences (video)

And here we will limit ourselves to what not to do when building such a fence.

Firstly, a rigid rod does not play together with the mesh in the wind, so it is impossible to insert veins into the outer rows of cells (item 1 in the figure on the right), the cells will soon disperse. However, it is also impossible to insert veins into rows of cells 2-3 from the edge (item 2), now for safety reasons. When trying to climb over a fence, the chain-link does not bend too much on the veins, and it seems to an inexperienced thief or just an idiot that it is possible to “take” such a fence. But then he finds himself hanging from a wire pierced into his stomach, and the owner has to answer for other people’s stupidity and evil, even to prison. Therefore, the veins of the suspended fence must be inserted into horizontal rows of chain-link meshes 4-6 from the edge. Then it will simply be impossible to climb over it; in extreme cases, an absolutely unreasonable stubborn person will rip off his hands, but not tear his own guts.

chain-link fences, which we’ll finish quickly so we can get serious about the technology. stronger, safer and rather elegant chain-link fences are obtained if you use a thin corrugated pipe on the vein; For drawings of the span of such a fence, see Fig. below. This is a transitional type to a fence with canvas on the edges.

On the beds

The construction of a chain-link fence on wooden slats is shown in the next figure; This fence can also be assembled without welding. The poles do not necessarily need to be taken with paws; Lightly, they can be attached to them with wood screws if the pillars are wooden, or with metal screws if the pillars are steel. For a fence on a slope, this option is even preferable.

But what should not be simplified in a chain-link fence is the method of attaching the mesh. Here you need the same reinforcing bars, nailed to the legs with U-shaped staples or bent nails. If you fasten the mesh as shown on the right in the figure, or simply with nails/screws, then within a year it will sag, no matter how tight it was initially.

Sectional

A sectional chain-link fence can look quite attractive if the frames of the sections are welded from corrugated pipe and the mesh is attached directly to them by spot welding; For a drawing of a section of such a fence, see the left in Fig. below. Assemble the sections lying down:

1. Frames are made with a height smaller than the mesh stretched in width.
2. Lay the frame flat.
3. A piece of mesh longer than the span is placed on the frame and stretched with inserted veins, as described above.
4. Each cell on the frame is grabbed by spot welding.
5. Trim off excess mesh.

As you can see, this requires either special equipment, or at least 4 strong assistants, and also a spot welding machine, and even part of the mesh goes to waste. Therefore, do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fences are most often made in frames made from angles 30x30x4 or 40x40x5 (on the right in the figure):

• Roll out the mesh to the length of the span and stretch it lengthwise and crosswise as far as possible with your hands. It is better to do this on the ground, fixing the veins with pegs. Insert veins into the outer rows of cells.
• Measure the distance between the outer edges of the veins. The distances between the shelves of the corners H facing each other must be equal to them.
• They weld into the corners mounting hooks from 6 mm wire rod, missing the corners facing each other by 1-1.5 cm.
• When installing the fence, first throw the top wire over the hooks (the mesh mustache must be bent).
• Then, using 4 pry bars (for which an assistant is needed), the lower vein is placed on the hooks.
• The side veins are put in place in the same way.

Relief and swamp

Instead of a conclusion, we suggest watching another video on how to install chain-link fences on slopes, uneven surfaces and marshy soil.

How to build a chain-link fence with your own hands - all installation options and decor ideas

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable material option for fences for centuries. In the fencing of the chicken coop and transformer hut, sports ground and land plot– such a grid can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in demarcating neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is prohibited to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of making a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which chain-link mesh to choose for a fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous fabric of wire spirals woven together. This design makes it easy to splice the fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common sizes are 30-50 mm), the standard roll height is 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

Chainlink fence

When making mesh, wire of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm is used; Most of the chain-links on sale are made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

• Without coating (“black”). It is better not to use mesh made from it for permanent fencing, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the “advisers.”
• Zinc coated is the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after some time, but will not rust, having served for decades.
• From of stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
• In a polymer shell. This mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (provided you choose a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized wire mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands you can not only build a chain-link fence, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings of a manual loom for weaving it. Manufacturing the machine will require some milling, welding and light turning work. One person is able to produce up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, if you have wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for fencing construction

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and labor-intensive process is marking the territory and installing support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, in accordance with the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think about the location of the gates and gates. Clear the area for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then drive stakes (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of future corner posts and supports for gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the pillars should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of pillars. The locations of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for installing supports. Wooden posts are short-lived; concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties when attaching the mesh.

The optimal solution for making a chain-link fence with your own hands would be metal posts made of a round or profile square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next we will consider this option.

Support Pole Installation Methods

You can install metal racks:

• simply driving them into the ground;
• forget - place in a pre-prepared hole and fill it with stones or large crushed stone, constantly compacting it;
• partially (when the end of the post is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

Methods for installing supports

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - determining the type of soil, the level of passage groundwater and depth of soil freezing. But for a light chain-link fence, possible movements of the supports of a few centimeters in height are insignificant, so in practice they use a simple rule - at least 40% of the post must be in the ground. That is, a post for a fence 1.5 m high should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but complete concreting is optimal.

In practice the process looks like this:

1. Install corner (or end, if there are gates and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
2. Prepare holes for intermediate posts according to the preliminary markings. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil makes the work much easier!
3. After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord along the top of the posts to control the height of the intermediate supports being installed, and another one at the bottom to control the placement of all posts on the same line.
4. To make it easier to level the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the holes with sand, gravel or small crushed stone and simply change the height of this cushion by adding or removing material.
5. Pour the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, and install stops and supports if necessary.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week); the posts must be primed and painted.

Installation of intermediate supports

Instructions for building different types of chain link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case you need a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with 4-5 mm wire for grazing livestock, in another you need a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills on the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is its own option.

The simplest fence for a site

The easiest way to install a mesh fence is to simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or better yet two.

1. Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the posts.
2. Check the height level of the wire spirals and, if necessary, screw in or unscrew displaced ones. The fact is that it is not visible on the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh it will be impossible to align the links.
3. Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
4. As you fasten the mesh, unwind it further.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the posts, but it is highly advisable to attach not the mesh itself (to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm inserted vertically into its link. Using another similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should pull the fabric.

This does not require any blocks, levers or complex structures for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

• just tie it to a post with soft wire. The fastest way, but not too beautiful;
• use special clamps rather than wire;

Fastening with clamps

• put the pin on the pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks made from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the stand at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is tensioned;

Fastening with hooks

• weld the rod (not the fabric!) to the post in several places, obtaining a permanent connection;
• stitch the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded sections of pipe with a diameter of 1/4″ and a length of 15-20 mm. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the short length of the segments will allow them to fit into the grid cells. The most aesthetic way of dismountable connection.

The end and corner posts will experience constant loads from the tension of the mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Corner post installation method

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the canvas, you can stretch one (from above) or several rows of cable or wire 4-6 mm thick.

Such strings can be attached to supports and tensioned in any convenient way, but the most practical option- by using special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

Wire tensioners

When installing a chain-link fence with your own hands using guy ropes, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3 m. But it is worth considering that when tensioning, the load on the outer and corner supports increases many times over, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with the supports for a simple tension fence.

The ideal option for fixing the fabric is through stitching the mesh along its length. But this process is long and labor-intensive, and the complexity increases with increasing diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first tensioned, then the chain-link is installed similarly to the simple method described above, and then after 200-300 mm the mesh is tied to the guy wires with galvanized binding wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed posts, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is tensioned and the fence is subsequently used. With this installation method, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Chain-link mesh on a frame with logs

Since most of the efforts will be applied in the upper part of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings even stretched, as in the previous method. Screw the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good foundation for the future, if there is a need to decorate the fence by hanging additional material. You can also easily replace the chain-link with corrugated sheets or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Fence from sections

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

• such a design is the most beautiful and impeccable from an artistic perspective;
• each section is separate and rigid structural element, therefore, there will be no issues with the mesh sagging and loss of protective properties;
• if necessary, sections can be dismantled and the posts can be used to build new fences;
• possibility of installation with large slope fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, the right solution would be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

To manufacture the section, a solid-rolled steel angle with a flange of 40-50 mm is used.

1. Using a grinder (better - assembly saw) cut pieces of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
2. Lay the frame on a flat surface (or level all the corners using pads), carefully measure the diagonals. To avoid twisting, the frame should be cooked in opposite corners.
3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to repair areas burnt from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
4. It is necessary to install the mesh fabric through rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as with racks). At the same time, fasten the first pin on the side of the frame, after tensioning the mesh - on the opposite side, and then on the top and bottom.
5. Do not apply excessive force when tensioning, otherwise the section may “fold” inward. Fastening on all sides, even with minimal tension, will prevent the canvas from “worrying” and sagging.
6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections based on the already known distance between the posts).
7. To attach the sections to the posts, weld metal dies (approximately 6*60*250 mm) in advance.
8. The frames can be attached to the dies using either electric welding or bolts, resulting in a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

: DIY chain-link fence

How to decorate a chain-link mesh - original solutions

Many people do not want to make a fence from chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A labor-intensive method, but beautiful and for a long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored tapes and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques made from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the active growing season and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light-shading nets. They come in various colors and degrees of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of light-shading mesh

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

Decorating a fence with a photo grid

At this point, the question of how to make a mesh fence with your own hands can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!

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