The box is one of the most common products among woodworkers. If you wish, you can make such a box with your own hands.
Planks made of pine, linden, and alder are suitable materials for it; they are easier to process and cut. First, we determine the size and thickness of the walls. As an example, consider a box measuring 10:10:8 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm. You will need 2 boards 1 cm thick. One 8 cm wide and 40 cm long and the other 10 cm wide and 20 m long. From the long one we cut 4 sidewalls measuring 8 by 10 cm. And from the other, the top and bottom measuring 10 by 10 cm. To join the sidewalls, mark with inside thickness for cutting.
We cut the bevel with a jamb knife at 45 degrees and adjust the joint with sandpaper or on a block. It is good to use a special device to assemble parts.
The main thing here is that it is rigid and has angles of 90 degrees. After adjusting the sidewalls, glue the parts together using PVA glue. Then glue the bottom and top. We wait a day for gluing and bring the workpiece to an even cube using sandpaper. Then, at a distance of 2 cm from the top, we draw a line and carefully saw through each side of the workpiece with a hacksaw.
We polish the resulting parts and chamfer the hinges on the back side of the box so that they sink a little. You can buy ready-made hinges for the box, or you can make it yourself, for example from a metal coffee can.
A thin wire can be used as an axis. We put it in the middle, and bend the loop blank around it, crimp it with pliers. To prevent the lid of the box from moving, we drill small holes in the front wall and lid and insert a dowel into the bottom one.
Now you can decorate the box in different ways: carving, painting, decoupage, burning, etc. as your imagination dictates.
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The box is one of the most common products among woodworkers. If you wish, you can make such a box with your own hands.
As for DIY wooden box Planks made of pine, linden, and alder are suitable - they are easier to process and cut. First, we determine the size and thickness of the walls. As an example, consider a box measuring 10:10:8 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm. You will need 2 boards 1 cm thick. One 8 cm wide and 40 cm long and the other 10 cm wide and 20 m long. From the long one we cut 4 sidewalls measuring 8 by 10 cm. And from the other, the top and bottom are measuring 10 by 10 cm. To join the sidewalls, mark the thickness for trimming on the inside:
We cut the bevel with a jamb knife at 45 degrees and adjust the joint with sandpaper or on a block. To assemble parts, it is good to use a special device: 
The main thing here is that it is rigid and has angles of 90 degrees. After adjusting the sidewalls, glue the parts together using PVA glue. Then glue the bottom and top. We wait a day for gluing and bring the workpiece to an even cube using sandpaper. Then, at a distance of 2 cm from the top, we carefully saw through each side of the workpiece with a hacksaw: 
We polish the resulting parts and chamfer the hinges on the back side of the box so that they sink a little. You can buy the hinges for the box ready-made, or you can, for example, from a metal coffee can: 
A thin wire can be used as an axis. We put it in the middle, and bend the loop blank around it, crimp it with pliers. To prevent the lid of the box from moving, we drill small holes in the front wall and lid and insert a dowel into the bottom one: 
Now you can do it in different ways: carving, painting, decoupage, burning, etc. as your imagination dictates.
Box blanks
Many wood craftsmen make beautiful, very wooden boxes. A jewelry box made of Karelian birch will decorate the interior of your home. How to do a simple box interesting shape and cut geometric carvings on it, see and read.
Wooden boxes must be made from dry material. I usually make it from birch, since the wood is uniform in density, cuts, paints and finishes well. I select birch without knots and cracks; the box blanks must be cut from boards of the same shade. If you cut out the parts and do not look at the shade and color of the board, then when varnishing a wood product you can get an uneven color. 
170 x 125 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
150 x 48 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
90 x 48 x 17 mm - 2 pcs.
800 x 28 x 10 mm - 1 piece
500 x 12 x 12 mm - 1 piece
First of all, on jointer We plane one side and the edge of the board, then use a surface planer to cut it to the required thickness, and then use a saw to cut out the dimensions of the workpieces.
Making a box
The main steps in making such a wooden box:
milling of blanks
gluing the box
carving on the box
interior decoration
tinting and varnishing
Milling blanks
Wooden boxes of this shape are made using a router. It is necessary to mill some individual parts on the machine before gluing. On milling machine I ran the lid and bottom on all four sides. I made four legs from a long piece. I overtook three sides and cut it on a saw to 40 x 28 mm. Then I milled the end and trimmed it again right size. I made four legs this way. On the corner fragments, I also selected an angle of 7 x 7 mm on the machine, from a long piece and sawed off four 35 mm pieces with a fine-tooth file. I chose 17 x 12 mm grooves at the ends of the long walls.
Gluing the box 
For working with crafts Lately I use PVA glue. I always buy only professional ones and recommend them to you. The first thing you need to do is glue the walls together. Coat with a thin layer and knock down with small nails. We mark the lid and bottom evenly, coat the joints and place a weight on top and leave to dry. Again on the milling machine, installing the saw, I separate the cover from the base, leaving 10 mm of the glued base on the cover. I mark, coat the legs and corner pieces and glue them to the base of the box.
Carving on the box
Wooden boxes made of birch can be very beautifully carved using geometric carvings. Carvings on the lid of the box I mark the design with a hard, well-sharpened pencil. First of all, I draw the main drawing and add to it various combinations. When carving using only one cutter.
Interior decoration
Before pasting with material, you need to install two small loops. Having marked it evenly, we nail it with small nails, first to the lid, and then to the base. Having measured and cut the material, we coat the places on the box with glue and then carefully glue it. I use glue - moment.
Tinting and varnishing
The tinting of any wood product must be done carefully. Select the color on a sample piece. I do this using scraps from a box I'm making. Once you are sure that you have chosen what you wanted, proceed to tinting. When applying, rub well and cover evenly using a brush and a soft cloth. Let the wooden box dry thoroughly and only then start varnishing. I coat my wood products with waterproof varnish three times. I described earlier in the article how to make an unusual oval box. In the future I will show and tell you what other wooden boxes can be made.
There is a tradition of giving each other gifts during the holidays. Someone will run to the store and buy a lot of useless trinkets. But you and I certainly don’t need this: firstly, we can make anything ourselves, and secondly, the gift should not only be beautiful, but also practical, so that after the holiday it does not gather dust on the shelf. In addition, there will be something to do in the evenings free from gardening chores.
I propose to make such a wonderful box as a gift. Its shape can be very different, but, as an example, I suggest making a small box with a lid square shape. Its production has its own specific features, one of which is that it is assembled entirely - the body with the lid and bottom. I propose to make it with dimensions of 150x80x60 mm: cover -10x80x150 mm, bottom - plywood 12x80x150 mm, side - 10x50x150 mm, end side - 10x50x70 mm. 
Gluing the box
First, I used a fine-toothed hacksaw to cut out four rectangular blanks from planed wooden planks - two long and two short, with the same width and the same thickness (10 mm). It is advisable to take linden for this, as it lends itself well to processing, can be easily planed with a plane and cleaned sandpaper.
Before assembling the box, grooves for tenons are cut out in the long sidewalls, and tenons are cut out in the short end sidewalls according to the size of the grooves 4x4 mm. Having adjusted the grooves and tenons to the square, we assemble the box: the ends of the short sides are smeared with wood glue and placed in the grooves of the long sides, which are also smeared with glue. These sides can be fastened by compression with clamps or using specially made wooden sticks- dowels. At the moment of gluing, you need to work quickly and check with a square that the parts are correctly positioned.
The glued frame of the box must dry before the glue hardens. Usually a day is enough for this.
Bottom and cover
When the frame of the product is removed from the clamp, you need to align the edges to which the bottom will be glued and the lid will touch. To do this, you need to fix a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the edges on it with some effort.
Then the bottom is made of plywood and the lid is made of planks. The bottom and lid should be rectangular, slightly larger in size than the size of the glued box. I glue the prepared lid and bottom onto the walls of the box using preheated glue (in a water bath): I lubricate the surfaces of the lid, bottom and edges of the box with a thin layer, place the lid and bottom on the edges of the box and clamp it with a clamp. Please note: during this process, make sure that the lid or bottom does not move in any direction!
To allow the glue in the box to dry, I put it on the shelf. The box holds in a clamped state for about a day, then I remove the clamp, inspect it, plan the excess allowances on the edge and bottom with a plane, and then clean it with sandpaper. Along the perimeter of the lid, I use a plane to chamfer 14 mm wide and have a slope of 5 mm. Next, using a surface planer, I make a line at a distance of 20 mm from the top to cut the lid. Along the dividing line, you need to carefully cut the box lengthwise with a fine-toothed hacksaw (you can use a metal saw) on all four sides. This technique allows you to perfectly adjust the size of the lid to the size of the base of the box. The cut points should be ground in on a sheet of coarse sandpaper.
We hang the hinges
I hang the lid on the hinges with a cut-in and fastening the hinges with screws. You don’t always find small size loops on sale and various shapes. If you don’t have the necessary hinges, you should make them yourself from metal or wood. Metal hinges can be single-layer or double-layer. I make two-layer loops, the process of making them is simpler. We bend a strip of metal in half, insert a nail into the bend and squeeze the metal around it in a vice. In the same way we make the second half of the loop. Then we mark the loop lengthwise into three parts. On one of the sides we file off the two outer parts, leaving the middle; on the other, on the contrary, we saw out the middle, leaving curls along the edges. We combine the twisted parts of both halves of the loop and insert a nail or wire inside, sharpening it on both sides
file. We cut off both sides of the hinges and drill holes, followed by countersinking them for screw heads.
Straw finish
Using a soft rag, I make a tampon, moisten it with stain and cover the box, after which I leave it to dry for 3-4 hours. After drying, I pass it with fine sandpaper so that no lint remains. Before translating the drawing wooden base wipes evenly adhesive solution. The glue used is the same one that will later be used to attach the appliqué elements with straws. This technique creates a ground layer on which the parts of the straw set are firmly fixed.
In 2005, not far from our dachas, rye was sown in one field and wheat in another. Taking a garden pruner with me, I went to these fields and cut rye and wheat straw. They differ well: wheat straw is lighter, and rye straw is darker. Rye straws have longer nodes, while wheat ones have shorter nodes, just like the straw itself. I cut the straws from knot to knot and put them in cardboard box, rye separately from wheat. Next I put the straw in a small enamel pan and pour boiling water over it for 30 minutes, after which I cut the straw on one side and immediately smooth it on the cardboard with a hot iron: first from the inside, and then from the outside. By the way, when you hold the iron longer on the straw, it turns out darker. I select the smoothed ribbon strips by width and put them in different boxes.
Strips of straw can be easily cut with a joint knife sharpened to an oblique width of 1 mm or 1.5 mm, depending on the design. We also cut into squares and diamonds. Circles can be cut out using a punch tube. This work is quite complex, almost like jewelry. I put all the cut out parts into matchboxes.
Let's start the application
Plan your drawing in advance, it all depends on your imagination. We apply the image this way:
pour a few drops of glue onto a piece of cardboard;
Using a pointed nail or awl, apply the straw piece and touch the drop of glue with its lower plane;
We transfer the part to the appropriate place, and to remove it from the tip of the tool, we lightly press it with a pointed stick, which we hold in the other hand;
Turn the stick over and press the part to the base with the flat end.
Then another part is applied and glued. And this is how the entire composition of the drawing is gradually filled in. Once we've finished one side of the box, move on to the next. When gluing the parts of the straw, I usually start by laying out the internal or external contours of the image, then the next row of the pattern is glued, etc., until all the planes of the composition are filled.
And if the walls of the box are decorated, gluing the straw parts should begin with laying out the outer perimeters, and then lay out the configurations of elements planned in advance in them.
Varnishing is done using a wide soft squirrel brush. The product dries, and then, where necessary, in selected places polished. Just don’t get carried away with varnishes: excessive shine is not a sign of a well-made item!
The box is ready! If you did everything correctly and carefully, it can become a decoration for a buffet or chest of drawers and store many things dear to your heart.
DIY box using transcryl technique
Decoupage, craquelure, gilding – these decoration techniques have long been loved by our needlewomen. But what to do if you want to decorate the surface not with a stamped napkin design, but with your favorite photograph or a favorite magazine clipping?
In such cases, transcril comes to the aid of creative people - modern remedy to transfer images. Thanks to a special emulsion, today we will decorate a jewelry box.
Manufacturing:
DIY box using transcrete technique photo 
1. From the very beginning, we need to paint the surface of the box, as is done for ordinary decoupage. We take a kitchen sponge (you can cut off half - we will use the other part later), squeeze acrylic paint from a tube onto it and apply an even layer of primer to the box. We only paint external sides products: lid and base of the box with bottom. Leave the painted surfaces aside and wait about 20 minutes for the primer to dry.
2. Then, using the same kitchen sponge, apply a second layer of paint of the color Ivory. Now the coating looks more saturated.
3. A mandatory step before applying the image is coating the product with acrylic varnish. The fact is that the drawing will be applied slightly wet, and the water will spoil the acrylic paint coating - it will wrinkle and form holes. Therefore, we take a wide brush, dip it in acrylic varnish and cover the lid of the box with a generous layer. We will be making Transril only on the lid, so the main part of the product can remain unvarnished for now. We set the lid of the box aside - the varnish will dry for 15-20 minutes.
4. While the varnish is drying, let's take on the transcryl. Cut out your favorite image of a piece of jewelry from a magazine. You don’t have to cut along the contour, so we leave empty spaces between the “rays” of the decoration.
5. Now we spread a transparent file in front of us, put a design with decoration on it and take a second (clean) piece of a kitchen sponge. Apply a little transcryl product to it and, using patting movements (they will ensure an even layer), cover the entire image.
6. This coating takes at least 20 minutes to dry. It is very important that it dries completely, because next we will apply another layer of transcryl to the drawing. Then, when the second layer has dried, apply a third one. Well, when the third layer has dried, we can carefully pick up the edge of the image and remove it from the file. Before us is a drawing of a jewel, covered with a film of transcryl. Thanks to chemical composition, this product turns into a film that absorbs any pattern.
7. Now pour water room temperature on any plate or bowl. Place the drawing in transcryl film into the water, face down. The paper part of the drawing should be well soaked, so wait at least 15 minutes (the time depends on the thickness of the paper from which we cut the drawing). After this time, we can carefully begin to roll up “sausages” of paper from the back of the image with our fingers. The easiest way to do this is to start from the center of the drawing.
8. Having cleared the transcryl film from paper covering, remove it from the water and rinse it under the tap (remove small pieces of paper). Now we take scissors and correct the drawing - cut out all its corners.
9. To stick the film with the pattern to the surface of the box, we do not need any glue. We simply cover the lid of the product with a layer of transcryl.
10. Then we place our image with the jewel in the center of the lid of the box. Use your fingers to smooth out the film so that there are no wrinkles.
11. Well, on top we cover the lid of the box with another layer of transcryl - this will fix the design and serve as a kind of varnish. If the entire surface of the lid is already covered with transcryl, leave it for a while to dry.
12. To prevent the surface of the lid from looking empty, apply a little paste with a bronze effect. To do this, squeeze the paste out of the tube onto forefinger and lightly rub the pigment into the space around the design with decoration.
13. Use the same bronze paste to decorate the main part of the box: apply light strokes of pigment to it. The final step is application. acrylic varnish on both parts of the box, with which we will secure the decor. It is best to apply not one layer of varnish, but two or three - then the box will shine more and look more festive.
Materials and tools:
Wooden box 
Acrylic primer for decoupage (ivory color)
Kitchen sponge
Acrylic lacquer
Varnish brush
Image transfer tool (transcryl)
Scissors
Magazine clipping
Transparent file or regular cellophane
Transcryl brush
Decorative paste with bronze effect
The box is one of the most common products among woodworkers. If you wish, you can make such a box with your own hands.
Planks made of pine, linden, and alder are suitable materials for it; they are easier to process and cut. First, we determine the size and thickness of the walls. As an example, consider a box measuring 10:10:8 cm with a wall thickness of 1 cm. You will need 2 boards 1 cm thick. One 8 cm wide and 40 cm long and the other 10 cm wide and 20 m long. From the long one we cut 4 sidewalls measuring 8 by 10 cm. And from the other, the top and bottom are measuring 10 by 10 cm. To join the sidewalls, mark the thickness for trimming on the inside:
We cut the bevel with a jamb knife at 45 degrees and adjust the joint with sandpaper or on a block. To assemble parts, it is good to use a special device:
The main thing here is that it is rigid and has angles of 90 degrees. After adjusting the sidewalls, glue the parts together using PVA glue. Then glue the bottom and top. We wait a day for gluing and bring the workpiece to an even cube using sandpaper. Then, at a distance of 2 cm from the top, draw a line and carefully saw through each side of the workpiece with a hacksaw:
We polish the resulting parts and chamfer the hinges on the back side of the box so that they sink a little. You can buy ready-made hinges for the box, or you can make it yourself, for example from a metal coffee can:
A thin wire can be used as an axis. We put it in the middle, and bend the loop blank around it, crimp it with pliers. To prevent the lid of the box from moving, we drill small holes in the front wall and lid and insert a dowel into the bottom one:
Now you can decorate the box in different ways: carving, painting, decoupage, burning, etc. as your imagination dictates.
Wooden boxes (master class)
My first experience making a wooden box. I am not a master woodcarver and at 29 years old I still haven’t learned how to create carved items. This is why I may disappoint some people, but don’t expect anything extraordinary.
I just want to show and tell you how you can make a good box or case, say for glasses, from ordinary 5, 6 mm plywood (I used beech, after all) and without any screws or nails.
The point is to glue 6 parts of the future box together using wood glue. Those. Initially we cut out 4 (if you are making a square one) “walls”, 2 of one size and 2 of another, as well as a bottom and a lid. All this can be cut from one piece of wood, plywood or similar material.
So we glue it together and get a hollow box inside without any holes. we process it with sandpaper. Rounding corners and stuff. Now comes the hardest part. Better of course circular saw, but you can try using a jigsaw or even a hacksaw, placing our box “on edge” and sawing it lengthwise. You must know one thing. The higher you lift to the side you have chosen as “top”, the deeper the box itself will be.
We saw along the red line (I repeat, it’s up to you to decide where to cut) and we get the base and lid:
Next, you need to decide whether you will hinge the lid or whether it will simply close at the top. In the second option, simply glue slats into the lid on four sides so that the lid fits into the base like a piston.
Well, when everything is glued, rubbed and sanded, you can start decorating and painting. How to do this is again up to you, because... You can cover the box with beads or napkins for decoupage. You can use velvet or acrylic paints. Give free rein to your imagination.
Now about technology - of course, if you are going to do something more complex shape, then plywood is not enough. To create these boxes, I used beech planks, pre-cut and processed. The carved edges were made using a hand cutter.
For painting I used colored stain. The effect of aging and wear was done like this: First, everything was covered with a light stain, then sanded, then coated again and sanded again. The third time it was coated and sanded again, but this time with a soft sanding sponge. Then the base color is applied on top in several layers, allowing each layer to dry (an hour is enough). And then, using a coarse sanding sponge, the edges, protrusions, and some abrasions are simply applied. It turned out to be something like a ten-year-old box that was actively used.
The decoration on the lids is pieces cut out from fittings (this is what the furniture in our homes is covered with) and glued onto the lid.
The plates are also wooden, but they are first coated with bronze model paint and then highlighted with gold. So they began to look like metal. With an awl, neatly scribbled, respectively, “Beloved Father-in-Law,” “Beloved Mother-in-Law,” and “My Beloved.” There was also “Beloved Mom,” but I sent this box to her without, unfortunately, having time to photograph it.
The handle on the last box was an ordinary plastic one. I sanded it with sandpaper and painted it with bronze model paint. It would have been impossible without her, because... The box is too wide to open by hand.
Everything is naturally varnished.
I think my experience will be useful to you too.
Briefly about the production of boxes
The process of producing wooden boxes is quite complex and may differ depending on the different manufacturers. In our production, the production of boxes from plywood, MDF or wood begins with the construction of the body of the product, which consists of side walls (or trim), a lid and a bottom.
The frame of the box is joined, as a rule, with an aesthetic miter joint, when the side walls are sawn at an angle of 45 degrees and the joint is almost invisible. “Butt-to-toe” (straight) and “tenon” (comb to comb) connections are also possible.
The flat lid and bottom are attached to the harness with an overlay. If the box is used for heavy contents, a mortise bottom is made.
After joining the wooden case into a closed “cube”, the future box is cut along the parting plane. This technology for the production of wooden boxes ensures an individual fit of the lid and bottom.
Painting - priming, application of tone, enamels, varnish, as a rule, occurs when the product is disassembled. After painting works, the production of which takes at least 2-3 days, accessories are installed on gift boxes - locks, hinges, limiters.
Materials for making boxes
Wooden boxes are usually made from solid wood in combination with wood-based materials.
The fact is that the tree is natural material, subject to warping, which manifests itself in products over time, especially in large sizes. Therefore, solid wood can be used for small boxes, the dimensions of which do not exceed 10-12 cm.
Basically, in production a combination of array and sheet materials- plywood, MDF, and, extremely rarely, panels made from wood blocks.
The walls of the box are usually made from solid wood. Beech is most often used for side walls. For the lid and bottom, either sawn beech veneer or MDF with beech veneer is suitable. Oak, oak veneer and MDF are also used in the production of oak boxes.
Sanded birch plywood is often used for manufacturing. Plywood is indispensable when you need to save money or make strong, large-sized packaging.
The appearance of a beech, oak or plywood box depends on the painting. Color shade gives the product a tone through which the structure of the wood is visible. Most often, products are tinted in the colors of rarer wood species - cherry, walnut, mahogany and ebony.
Boxes made from natural valuable woods such as mahogany, padauk and wenge are beautiful in themselves and are usually not tinted.
Grace of form, unusual style, modern design, - all these qualities are inherent in the work of master Michael Cullen, who creates original wooden boxes. In this master class we will tell you how to make such wooden boxes with your own hands.
Creative projects do not require large quantity time, complex measurements and planning. There are no carpentry joints in the boxes, and source material unnecessary scraps lying around in the workshop can be used to make them.
The creation of lightweight, durable and elegant boxes is based on the utmost simple technology. Products are cut into band saw or jigsaw machine from whole piece wood, cut into two parts and glued back together. Plywood allows you to relieve internal stress, eliminating deformation and cracking of the box as the wood dries out. After this, a lid is made and the bottom is glued in.
All boxes are made using the same technology, however, each of them has its own unique style. These projects welcome creativity. Experiment with limitless variations of shape and decoration, creating unusual and stylish boxes for jewelry, rings, watches and other small, and if desired, large items.
Quick sketch . On the processed workpiece, cut lines are drawn with a pencil. A simpler option is to paste a pre-printed drawing with dimensions onto the upper plane of the workpiece. When transferring the sketch, it is important to maintain the longitudinal orientation of the fibers.
Blank for lid . A flat longitudinal part 15-20 mm thick is sawed off from the main workpiece, which will later become the lid of the box.
The angle of the table is changed by several degrees.
Having changed the tilt of the table by 2-3°, the part is cut in two and the internal waste part is cut out, forming a conical cavity of the box.
The two halves are glued back together. Plywood allows you to relieve internal stress, preventing deformation and cracking of the wooden box. The glue is applied in a thin and even layer. Excess that bleeds through is very difficult to clean inside the box.
Drying . The glued workpiece is carefully placed under the clamps, carefully checking the absence of displacements and distortions.
Blanks for the lid and bottom . Having returned the table to a horizontal position, two sections are sawed off from the waste part. This will be the lid element and the bottom of the box.
Drawing of the blank for the lid and bottom
Cavity painting . If you want to decorate a wooden box not only on the outside, but also on the inside, paint its cavity while there is easy access on both sides.
Sawing external walls . Returning the saw table to an inclined position, make cuts along the outer contour.
Apply to the ends of the bottom thin layer glue and insert it into the bottom of the box, pressing with your fingers until it stops.
The element intended for the lid of the box is glued onto the blank made at the very beginning.
Sawing the lid . After the glue has dried, trace the main outline of the lid and cut out this final part.
The presented technology is universal. It allows you to experiment with design and unusual shapes, creating beautiful and original boxes at home, not similar friend on a friend.
Simple walnut box
A similar sequence of actions underlies the next project - a four-wall wooden box. Thanks to the unusual curved shape its design looks stylish and modern.
How to decorate a wooden box with your own hands
Despite the external attractiveness of the form, the truly original style of the box acquires after decoration. It gives unlimited freedom for creativity in this matter.
