Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal posts: design features. Methods of fastening wooden parts to concrete and brick, metal, aerated concrete and plasterboard Fastening wooden beams to metal

Subscribe
Join the “koon.ru” community!
In contact with:

Installation of fences requires the use of high-quality fastening components that can provide the fence with the proper strength and durability. One of the most important structural elements In addition to fence posts, you can confidently call logs, or veins. The veins are horizontal jumpers on which spans of fences made of corrugated sheets are installed, metal picket fence or wooden fences. Logs (veins) are attached to the supporting fence posts mainly by welding. However, today this is not the most The best decision. Welded joints often do not look aesthetically pleasing, but the main thing is that over time they rust and require constant maintenance. The joints that have been welded must be constantly repainted, since during the fastening process damage to the protective layer of metal, which protects the structure from corrosion, is inevitable. It is also worth noting that welding cannot be used everywhere; in particular, this requires access to electrical networks, which are not always available in the places where the fence is being built. Using a generator incurs additional costs.

In this regard, today fastening connections are becoming increasingly popular: fasteners for poles and joists, as well as x-brackets. They are not much inferior in strength characteristics to welding, and at the same time have a number of undeniable advantages. Fastening connections greatly increase the speed of installation; in addition, already attached joists can be easily removed and installed back or in a new location. When installing fence spans using fasteners, damage to their protective layer painted with primer enamels, galvanized or powder coating is excluded.

Holder for fence joists Fasteners for posts and joists are made according to a different principle: bent ones are used metal elements from sheet metal, which are connected to each other by industrial welding, after which they are coated with zinc-containing primer and powder paint. Metal fasteners for poles are available different models and standard sizes.

X-brackets are produced by stamping from an all-metal sheet and subsequent processing of the products by hot-dip galvanizing. The result is a cross-shaped structure with curved edges with holes for attaching the x-bracket to the fence post and attaching the joists.

Installation of fastenings for fence posts and joists

The process of installing a fence made of corrugated board, metal picket fence or wooden fencing using fasteners is quite simple. On support pillars The fence is marked at the places where the fasteners are attached. The fastener is applied to the table, a log is inserted into it, the horizontalness of which is checked building level. Then, the mount is screwed to the post using bolts or roofing screws. The X-bracket is attached using the same principle.

Installation of logs using holders

The fasteners are easy to use. Their use can significantly speed up installation processes and significantly improve the aesthetics, reliability and quality of fence construction. Our company provides turnkey fence installation services and performs individual species works: drilling holes for fence posts, installing metal posts made of round and profile pipe, installation of logs using the welded method or using fasteners, installation of corrugated sheets and other construction work.

How to attach veins to round fence posts? [QUESTION]

Installed metal pipes as fence posts, the question arose of attaching “ears” to attach the veins to the posts. But I didn’t find any information on the Internet about what size it is recommended to make these “ears”; I don’t have enough experience to determine this. The veins are planned to be wooden, 100x50 mm, span length 2.5 m; pillars d=76 mm What height, thickness and length is better to make “ears” so that it is convenient to mount the veins and the fastening is reliable? And what is the best way to attach the veins to the ears - with bolts, nails or some other way?

Answer: Let’s talk about veins right away; they are absolutely useless at such sizes. Especially with such a small span. 60x40 mm, as they say, “for the eyes.”

As for the “ears”, they are generally not needed. Drill your pipe through and fasten the veins with ordinary bolts with an M 10 thread 120 mm long as shown in the figure. To prevent them from unwinding, use Grover washers. You can cut the ends of the bolts a couple of millimeters so that they protrude beyond the nut and rivet them.

Place the bolt heads into the vein.

Unfortunately, you did not specify the material of the fence.

The construction of a fence around the perimeter of the site requires strict adherence building regulations at all stages of work. The slightest deviation from established standards may cause deformation of the fence. Before you start building a fence, for example, from corrugated board, you should know exactly how to install the posts, how to fasten the corrugated sheet, what fixing products to use (screws, bracket, clamp, rivets).

This is what self-tapping screws with rubber washers look like for screwing corrugated sheeting to the fence frame

Fastening fence logs from light building materials, for example, corrugated sheets, picket fences or wooden planks, must be carried out only with the use of high-quality components. In former times, fence logs made of corrugated sheets were attached to the support screw piles welding method. Such work could only be done by professionals and required the presence of electricity and welding equipment on site. Fences made by welding did not always look like an example of aesthetics and required constant anti-corrosion treatments at the attachment points.

Modern fences for personal plots are mainly modular fences made without welding, which are easy to assemble, original and durable. They are kits consisting of supports, sections and fasteners.

Option for attaching cross beams to fence posts

Fasteners for such fences also comply modern trends. In most cases metal frames fastened using devices such as a clamp or bracket.

IN last years The well-proven x-fastener for fences is very popular, providing quick, aesthetic and quality connection. Any fastener for corrugated sheeting or other sectional fabric is a product specifically designed for construction work. Fastening the corrugated sheet logs using modern methods Even beginners can fix it.

Fasteners for corrugated sheeting on the fence are made of high-quality steel coated with anti-corrosion powder or zinc. Various fasteners and additional components eg rivets, clamp or suitable bracket.

Example of clamps various types for attaching corrugated sheets to poles

You can buy these accessories at any specialized market, in online stores or in construction goods supermarkets.

Return to contents

Fence fasteners for corrugated sheets are presented in two main types:

  • Bracket or x-bracket;
  • Fasteners for joists and posts.

The clamp, bracket or rivets are designed to different types fixation. Their correct combination will help to firmly connect the pillars and horizontal veins (joists). Anyone can buy these parts, and their ease of use requires no experience or application special devices and devices.

Drawing possible options attaching joists to poles

Thanks to products such as fasteners for corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, picket fences or wood, the construction of fences of any complexity is greatly facilitated.

Return to contents

Fasteners for corrugated sheets, for example, a bracket, are made by stamping from a hot sheet of metal. The fastening clamp, with which the pillars are connected to the joists, is made from bent metal parts welded to each other.

The finished bracket is subjected to hot-dip galvanizing, and the welded fasteners are painted with protective powder paints.

These accessories provide the fence with aesthetics, good wear resistance and strong fixation for the entire service life. Attaching corrugated sheets to the fence using fasteners is becoming an increasingly popular way of connecting structures.

Scheme correct fastening corrugated sheet to the frame

The advantages of using this fixation method include the following:

  • Convenience and ease of connection;
  • Availability;
  • Fast pace of installation;
  • All joining points look beautiful and neat;
  • There is no need for electricity and welding machines;
  • The integrity of the top layer of mounted structures is maintained.

Special fasteners for corrugated sheets, such as a clamp, help connect posts, crossbars and fence sections firmly and efficiently. At the same time, the elements of the fence are not subjected to rough impact and mechanical damage.

This connection gives the hedge external beauty, integrity and provides it with long term services. If you need to rearrange the pillars, change the fastening of the joists, or dismantle the fence, then this can be done without damaging the prefabricated components.

Return to contents

Most often, fences made of corrugated sheets are erected around dacha and land plots.
This material is versatile, strong, affordable and durable. The corrugated sheet is used as a fence covering throughout. Even a novice builder can easily learn to work with it. A wide range of colors and an assortment of profiled sheets adds to its popularity. You can buy a quality product in many stores across the country at a relatively low price.

The material consists of a sheet of steel that has been galvanized and treated with anti-corrosion treatment. On top protective layers primer is applied. The last coating of the product - a fence made of corrugated sheets - is covered with paint with polymer components. To prevent the canvas from being damaged during the construction of the fence, only special fasteners, such as a clamp or brackets, must be used to secure it.

Hello, I am interested in the issue of installation wooden lining on the metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other mounting methods (profile for GP)?

Dmitry, Ukraine.

Hello, Dmitry from Ukraine!

You must have some kind of unusual situation, if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.

It is clear that the wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal made of galvanized or aluminum) in the form of slats. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.

A metal profile of the GP type (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet whose end resembles a trapezoidal contour with wide flanges and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or the GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has small width mushrooms and a large bottom width.

Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used for fencing facade surfaces buildings, indoors, sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for roofing.

If you would like to attach wooden lining to a metal profile, it is clear that this cannot be done with nails, since, having pierced the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is capable of piercing galvanized steel standard thickness. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But, with rare exceptions, they don’t fasten the lining like this.

Theoretically, it is possible to sew the lining onto the GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably with metal screws, which have a finer knurling (pitch) of thread. Such screws will hold more firmly, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws are either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the screw, and not separately). Roofing screws should be used with caution, as they can turn the lining with their self-tapping edges.

But this is a labor-intensive method; more often they use a method where they are first mounted on a metal profile wooden plank or a block with several screws, and then the lining itself is nailed directly to this bar-bar. This will make your life easier, since you won’t have to fasten each panel with screws directly to the metal.

/If the lining will be exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much preferable to nails, which can be torn out when wet boards warp./

Two more points. Don't forget about relative position lining and metal profiles. The lining must be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly hit the fasteners on the top of the profile waves, and not just anywhere. /If you first attach the wooden planks-bars, which were discussed above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction./

In addition, it is always very desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. This can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films for similar purposes.

Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out from the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing is that if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be covered.

And lastly, do not forget that you need to balance your efforts when tightening screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures to prevent deflections of the profile sheets from the applied forces.

This is my take on your question.

The neighbor was planning to put up a boundary fence made of corrugated sheet metal. I forcibly talked him out of the wooden one. However, he had already purchased the base material for the fence: metal posts and metal logs from the profile. Now he wants to drill holes in these joists and screw the boards to them with galvanized screws.
He doesn’t understand the reasoning - that it’s easier, cheaper and more reliable to buy 20 rubles each and instead of these lags weld blank plates for bolting wooden beams to the posts, to which it will then be easy and simple to nail the boards.
You can understand him - where to put these recklessly purchased logs now? But there is a suspicion that not only will drilling pieces of iron take longer and hemorrhoids, but these self-tapping screws will rust in a few years and the boards will fly off...

Or am I wrong and this is how they do it - boards on pieces of iron?

If you really want to dissuade your neighbor, try to think through the situation thoroughly in advance. What will you say to your neighbor, what can he say to you in response, etc. What you told us here will be crushed to smithereens in the first minute of the conversation. Here is a possible justification for the neighbor's position.

A fence with metal logs between the posts is more reliable than a fence with wooden logs, since the metal logs themselves and their attachment to the posts are definitely more reliable (stronger).

The fence frame when using metal logs will certainly be more durable, and during future repairs it will be for a long time will only involve replacing the sheathing boards, whereas otherwise replacement may also be required wooden logs.

The screws that secure the boards and the nails that secure the boards will also rust. This is an argument over the counter.

But what's in in this case boards secured with self-tapping screws will loosen later than boards nailed - a fact. The nails are smooth and will be held in place by the wood, while the self-tapping screw has a thread that will eventually go into the metal. In addition, the screws can be tightened (tightened) if necessary, but what about the nails?

I'll cautiously suggest that you haven't tried screwing screws into the profile? Rumors about the difficulty of attaching anything to the profile resp. self-tapping screws - greatly exaggerated. And if in your life you have had to work with a screwdriver more often than with a hammer (and now this is very common), then by screwing self-tapping screws into the profile with a good screwdriver, you will most likely outrun yourself holding the hammer in your hands.

Nowadays, perhaps everyone has a screwdriver available, and the only tool for driving nails at hand is almost certainly a hammer. It is physically easier to work with a screwdriver than to hammer nails.

In order to efficiently hammer boards onto the fence with a hammer, you still need to adapt: ​​so that your efforts to nail the next board do not lead to the loosening of the previous ones. With a screwdriver and metal joists, this problem simply does not exist.

Let's look at prices. For the logs, the neighbor most likely bought a 20x40 profile, costing about 70 rubles per meter? That is, an ordinary log 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.

Despite the fact that when using a metal profile of any length, at any distance between the posts, there will be no scraps, since it can be welded together. When using wooden logs, we either end up with scraps or additional ones. plates/corners for joining joists outside the pillars (two plates - 40 RUR). Or you will have to make the width between the pillars a multiple of the standard length of lumber of 3 meters, which may not in the best possible way will affect the strength of a relatively heavy wooden fence, especially one assembled on wooden logs.

But let's return to the prices for logs. Unless, of course, you don’t get the wooden logs for free. For the logs of a wooden fence, a 50x100 board is good. It costs approximately 5000 rubles per cubic meter natural humidity and about 8000 rubles per cubic meter dry. That is, the cheapest board (whether it soon turns into a “saber”, “propeller” or simply cracks - we’ll leave it behind the scenes) will cost about 25 rubles per meter. Laga best quality, will cost 40 rubles per meter.

To summarize, a metal joist in a run between two pillars 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.
A wooden beam 2.5 meters long and of worse quality will cost 62.5+20=82.5 rubles. And the quality is better, already 100+20=120 rubles. 20 rubles - the cost of the plate that is needed to attach the log to the pole.

If the width of the common fence between the plots is 30 meters and two logs (if the length of the fence or the number of logs is different, the following calculations will need to be clarified), we get the cost of equipping the fence with metal logs 70x2x30 = 4200 rubles. The cost of equipping the same length of fence with wooden logs is worse than 1500 for logs and about 500 rubles for plates: 1500+500=2000 rubles. If we take better lags, then 2400+500=3100 rubles. And we left behind the scenes the situation with the possible appearance of scraps when using wooden logs.

That is, the savings in log material when using high-quality wooden logs instead of metal profile logs will amount to as much as 1,100 rubles at 30 meters!
Despite the fact that refusal to use metal joists puts the neighbor at a loss of 4,200 rubles.

P.S. And, please, no offense, but you probably shouldn’t be so biased towards your neighbor (I’m talking about “reasons”, etc.).
In any case, do not forget that you still have to live with him

Wooden beam - practical construction material. Low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, securing the beam to the foundation is not so easy, because wood cannot be glued to concrete or welded to metal. In this article we will talk about how timber is attached to various foundations what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a timber house

Waterproofing

The bottom beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasant-smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron/concrete grillage and beams you need to lay at least 2 layers of roofing material. This is material that falls out due to temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, but the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under and above it. This will protect the wall from dampness and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is better?

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

  • timber moisture;
  • climatic conditions;
  • seismic activity;
  • the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening damp (over 16%) timber to wooden grillage Only shrinkage compensators should be used. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, timber with high and especially natural humidity gives very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten timber with high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing timber on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same fastening method should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a bottom beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it on the most rigid fastening (regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach must be applied in those regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting rigid anchorage in seismically active or windy regions will result in the anchorage being exposed to external factors will become loose and the house will begin to rock. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains will lead to the appearance of gaps between decorative crown and a foundation or grillage.

Any owner suburban area Quite rightly, he is trying to fence off his possessions in some way. Thus, the construction of a fence is always included in the list of priority tasks, and it is often started to be installed even before the construction of the main house begins. There are a great many design options for such fencing. But despite the very wide range of materials offered for sale, both general construction and specifically designed for the construction of fences, wooden fences remain one of the most popular.

Wooden fences have been used for centuries and have proven their practicality. True, the fence supports were and remain a vulnerable point - the wood quickly succumbs from constant contact with the ground biodegradability, and century wooden poles, alas, short-lived. But nothing in our time prevents us from finding a more thorough solution. For example, it will last much longer wooden fence on metal poles. It is these types of fences that will be discussed in this publication.

Return

×
Join the “koon.ru” community!
In contact with:
I am already subscribed to the community “koon.ru”