Do-it-yourself house with an attic floor. DIY attic roof construction

This is the most popular type of room, since most structures are constructed in this way - an attic requires much less money for construction and is built very quickly. The rafter leg should be made of timber 150x50 mm, this is the calculation for an ordinary house 7x10 meters. With such dimensions, you won’t have to come up with anything extra - a regular rafter system of the structure will do. The angle of inclination of the leg will be from 45 to 60 degrees, it is advisable to make the angle smaller so that the parameters of the room are suitable not only for life, but also for normal rest.

The length of the rafter leg will be about 640 centimeters, while the width of the living space will be 450 centimeters and the height 230-250. Such parameters will satisfy the requirements of most builders, but if more space is required, then you need to give preference to sloping roofs, but they will cost much more. Let's consider the simplest and effective drawing attics under a regular gable roof.

The extension board can be exactly the same size as the leg to make construction more convenient, but the vertical supports can be reduced so as not to overpay a lot. A beam of 80x80 centimeters will be sufficient, taking into account the fact that the crossbar is laid 120x80. It is better not to skimp on the crossbar, since it serves as a supporting element, it will hold suspended ceiling, chandeliers and other decorations. It is advisable to install racks more often, as this will significantly facilitate finishing work later. Building an attic under a gable roof is simple, inexpensive, and practical.

How to make an attic with your own hands under a sloping roof

Despite the fact that the roof itself is quite expensive to manufacture and requires a little more labor for its installation, building an attic with your own hands will take much less time. You get a ready-made box for its construction; you just need to cover everything with finishing materials, insulate it, and an excellent, spacious room is already ready. A prerequisite for construction is that the width of the house must be at least 5 meters. Since for comfortable living in the attic you will need a height of 220 centimeters or more, and a width of at least 3 meters, preferably even more.

The top frame is made of 80x80 timber, the ridge rafters are 60x60 millimeters. Such small beams are the result of their a large number of and they are installed every 70 centimeters ( see drawing). Side rafters are fastened with brackets, beams attic floor must be at least 50x50 centimeters, preferably a little larger so that there is a margin of safety. The calculation is made for a house of 6x6 meters; as the width of the building increases, the strength of the materials will increase proportionally, since the load on the load-bearing elements will be much greater.

The cladding is made from clapboards, plywood, fiberboard or OSB boards. These are the cheapest materials, which, with proper insulation, will be in no way inferior to European building materials. They can be installed on profiles, in the same way as when creating frame structures. There is no need to install heavy load-bearing structures - minimal pressure will be exerted on the walls. If it is necessary to make heavy units (for attaching a plasma panel, under an aquarium, etc.), it will be possible to install reinforcements precisely in the places where the object is attached, thus saving a large amount of money on furnishing the room.

Insulation of the room

If you initially want to make a house with good thermal insulation, so that a 400 W heater is enough to heat the attic, then you need to give preference to roofs with continuous sheathing. Let's take a closer look at how to make a truly “profitable” roof that will save you money in all subsequent years.

Making the top of the attic. There must be a vapor barrier, since the temperature in the room and in the air chamber above the ceiling will differ by 15-20 degrees in winter, and heat will “escape” from the room. You stuff plasterboard on the bottom of the tie, onto which you can then apply finishing materials (plaster, stretch film, etc.), place foil on top of the tie to isolate steam, and insulate it with any roll insulation, which you will like. Such a system will eliminate condensation and increase thermal efficiency by 35%.
Before you make an attic, you need to decide what you will use to cover the roof. Perfect option– slate, roofing felt, OSB sheet and lathing. Such a system will significantly save on home heating costs, although the installation of building materials itself is expensive. It is better to make the lathing thick so that the OSB board does not “play” on it and is perfectly flat. Next, we cover it with resin, lay thick roofing felt, it is advisable to choose the most flexible one. You can simply nail slate onto it. Some builders also use a 0.5 cm layer of insulation so that the slate fits more tightly to a solid surface and does not loosen over time. Thermal efficiency, of course, also increases significantly.
We insulate from the inside. One of the most important aspects of home insulation is the installation of fiberboard and insulation boards. Between the rafters, the entire space (without “windows”) should be occupied by insulation, the joints of which should be glued or knocked down tightly (depending on the type of material). If funds allow, you can apply liquid polyurethane foam directly over the sheathing and the inside of the OSB. Cost of one square meter it will cost about 200 rubles, but it’s worth it - you will eliminate possible condensation and insulate all roof slopes without seams.

When insulating, you can use ordinary polystyrene foam - its effectiveness is low, but with a solid material thickness (up to 8-10 centimeters) it will be no worse than alternatives building mixtures. The only big disadvantage is that it is not suitable for dense insulation everywhere, and it also takes up a lot of space.

Floor insulation is very important point, since a lot of heat is lost through it, especially in brick houses, where the role of the ceiling is played by a concrete slab. But even wooden frame must be insulated between floors. To do this, simply lay the roofing material in two layers, and attach a fiberboard slab, mainly PT-100 or M-20, to it. Then you can lay the usual floor, for example, warm linoleum. With minimal heating of the room, walking around it will be very warm; it heats up even when the first floor is heated.

How to build an attic the first time or the main mistakes of beginners

When we build an attic with our own hands, the main task is strength and few people pay attention to thermal efficiency, durability, and practicality. But within a few years, or even months, these “shoals” will gradually appear, and their elimination will be very expensive. Let's consider typical mistakes newcomers.

No anti-corrosion treatment. All materials, especially natural wood, must be treated with impregnations, special insect repellents and moisture-repellent suspensions. If this is not done, the service life of the wood will decrease many times.
Fastening different boards one rafter leg “by eye”, without a level, without taking into account the natural load on the roof in a snowy winter. As a result, the deflection of the rafters is ensured by 15-20%, therefore, the entire roof will “move.”
The insulation is laid with gaps; there is no obligatory bandaging of layers. Some craftsmen initially lay a layer of insulation that is not at all suitable for our climate zone, so the thermal efficiency of the room immediately decreases significantly.
No air cushion between the top layer of insulation and the roof. Thus, fungi can form, as well as condensation, which will not lead to anything good.
Use of overly “light” materials. The strength characteristics of the walls are not the primary goal, but they should not be put on the back burner. Better install OSB plate with a thickness of 15 mm or more - it is not much more expensive, but the strength qualities will be several times higher than material with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

Pay attention to the environmental safety of materials, purchase wood, insulation materials only from well-known suppliers, since low-quality goods can cause a lot of harm to your health. You should also not use anti-corrosion agents for external use, which contain a lot of dangerous chemicals. It is necessary to use suspensions intended for interior decoration, having hazard class 3 (non-hazardous to humans). Preference should be given to well-established manufacturing companies.

Arranging it is the easiest and fastest way to increase the amount of usable space. Rooms in the attic acquire a certain romantic aura and become a favorite place for household members to spend time. The main advantage of these premises is the large number fresh air and light. But you need to approach it with all responsibility, otherwise you risk becoming a hostage to weather conditions.

The mansard roof can be of any shape, but most often it is gable. And if it is also broken, then with its help the space is used most rationally. A huge advantage of the attic floor is that its construction is much more economical than the construction of a full floor with solid walls.

The strength structure of the roof where there will be an attic or the one under which there will be no living space is no different. The strength and stability of the roof depends entirely on its rafter system.

Rafters- This is the main load-bearing structure of the roof. They must withstand both the weight of the roof and the load in the form of precipitation and wind. The rafter system is calculated based on the selected roofing material, as well as depending on the climatic conditions of the area.

For the construction of a power rafter system, ferrous metal in accordance with GOST, galvanized thin-walled cold-formed profile or wood, as well as combinations of ferrous metal and galvanized profile, metal and wood are used. In places that are difficult to access for installation, it is better to use a thin-walled profile.

The choice of material directly depends on the length of the spans that need to be covered. For long distances, ferrous metal or trusses are suitable.

It is very important to use only lightweight materials and structures for the construction of an additional floor. The advantages of a thin-walled profile are that it does not require welding and can be assembled locally using bolted connections or rivets.

Wood as a material is also well suited, but requires additional processing antiseptic.

Rafters, frames or trusses are erected from load-bearing structures. They are mounted on the Mauerlat, and then purlins are made on them. If the step is large, this also becomes part of the power structures.

Mauerlat- this is part roofing system in the form of a beam laid on the perimeter of the wall and is the lower rafter support.

An important task is how to make the attic warm, that is, to organize an insulation cake. The difference between a living space and just a roof is the need for its thermal insulation. As an additional load, all insulation is not significant and does not affect the strength structure of the roof.

The main principle in design is that the load-bearing structure must be placed either in warm contour, or cold, but not in the middle. Warm placement is preferable, then the entire insulation pie goes outside.

The most common mistakes:

lumber is not treated with antiseptic and fireproof impregnations and this reduces the service life of your roof
rafter legs are joined together with cuts without the use of thermal insulation gaskets, which leads to freezing and cold bridges
rafter sections and their installation occurs “by eye” without taking into account loads
the rafter legs are not attached to the mauerlat or are attached with nails, which is the same thing in case of a strong gust of wind
The waterproofing film is laid with the front side inside the room, and not outside, as it should be
insufficiently reliable fastenings of the joints of the rafters with the purlins, sometimes it’s just a couple of nails.

As a result of non-compliance with construction technologies, many get disastrous results, even if not immediately. To avoid this, let's consider in detail how to do it.

An example of how to calculate an attic

Before you start building an attic with your own hands, you will need to make a drawing. If you do not know, for example, AutoCad, you can do this by hand. It is important that you clearly see the projection of your attic from the front, side and top view.

To begin, mark the load-bearing walls of your home in the front view (looking at the gable of the building).

So, let's say there is a house with the following initial parameters:

Three load-bearing walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300 mm.
The distance between the walls is 4m.
The floor beams of the first floor are laid with a 50cm cornice extension.
Because the maximum length wooden beam - 6m, then this value is taken as the basis for the width of the attic floor. Based on this, we get a drawing of a gable sloping roof.
The height from the ceiling to the beam is 2660mm.
The length of the side and top rafters (roof breaks) is 3300 mm each. When these values are the same, then, in addition to the fact that it looks harmonious, it will be easier to calculate the area of the roofing.
Tilt angle side rafter– 60°, upper – 25°.
The thickness of the floor beams is 250mm, the rafter beams are 200mm.
150mm vertical posts were installed, on which the strapping beam, and the attic floor beam, side and top rafters are attached to it.
The total height of the roof is 4260mm, and the height of the living space is 2250mm. According to the norms, this permissible height ceilings for premises for temporary stay, that is, bedrooms, children's rooms.

Essentially, an attic is a frame consisting of several posts, beams and rafters.

If the length of the transverse floor exceeds 6 m, and, accordingly, one beam is not enough, then the upper part of the attic can be made in the form of a truss with a rack, a truss and an additional rack. In the side part, trusses can also be installed that push the rafters apart. IN in this case these details are not necessary.

When making calculations, you must have at hand a set of rules and tables on technical construction standards, which is called “Loads and Impacts”. It contains not only general provisions, but also formulas with coefficients, for example, of melting, snow drift and the unevenness of its distribution over the roof area.

When calculating how to build an attic, you must remember that it is subject to 4 types of loads at once:

own weight (it is relatively easy to calculate, knowing what kind of insulation pie will be in the ceiling and rafters)
pressure on the floors of people inside, furniture, etc.
snow load on a slope less than 30° is equal to 1.52 kPa; if the slope is steeper than 60°, then there is no such load on it
wind, which acts evenly on all rafters on the windy side, and on the leeward side at this time a suction occurs, “tearing off” both the top and side rafters.

Also, the tearing force of the rafters is especially effective when the wind blows into the gable of the building. These loads are calculated using formulas using the appropriate aerodynamic coefficient.

We build an attic with our own hands

Installation sequence:

First of all, floor beams with a section of 70 (50) x 250 mm are laid in steps of 1 m (for each wall length this is calculated individually, the main thing is that the step is the same). In this case, this is also explained by the fact that a ladder will go into one of the gaps, and it should not be narrower than 90 cm. If you take a step smaller, the floor beam would have to be cut and strengthened, and this is an additional concern.
On the sides of the beams, beams are packed onto which the sheet material or boards.
After installing the beams, racks are attached to them in 2 rows, which are leveled using a plumb level, and then temporary jibs are made, perpendicular to each other and nailed, along and across the axis of the roof. This additionally secures the beams and prevents them from deviating to the side. You can use any board for the jib.
A rope is pulled between the two outer posts and the remaining posts are leveled along it. Their step is always equal to the step of the floor beams. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. The result should be two parallel rows of racks, on which the strapping bars are then placed.
The purlins are laid and secured to the posts with 150mm nails and corner screws.

Crossbars made of timber 50 x 200 mm are placed on top on the edge, which increases their rigidity. Since subsequently there is no significant load on them, this section is usually sufficient. But in order to insure them during installation, supports made of timber no thinner than 25mm are placed under them. At this stage, the rigidity of the attic is ensured only in the transverse direction; longitudinally the structure is unstable. From above, while the rafters are not installed, you can also temporarily strengthen one or two boards on the crossbars.
Lower rafters with a section of 50 x 150 mm are installed. First, a template is made from a 25 x 150mm board (it is easier to process). The length is measured and applied to top beam and the shape of the joint is drawn directly on the board, which is then sawed out. Next, the template is tried on at all other places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches them, all legs are cut out according to the template. However, the lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat, is cut in place. The rafters are secured using corners with self-tapping screws and nails. Beams with rafters can be mounted in parallel, that is, when all the elements are fastened in one span at once, or they can be mounted sequentially, when all the floor beams are installed first, and then all the side rafters.
So-called wind connections are installed. These are wooden braces that push out the top point at the level where the attic beams are installed.
Line of upper rafters. At the ridge level, for convenience, sometimes an overlay is made and a tightening in the middle in order to pin the rafters on the ground, and then lift them and unfasten them in place. The center of the roof is marked using a temporary stand, which is nailed to the Mauerlat and the extreme tie on the end side so that this board goes up the center of the roof. This will be the guide for the rafters. Next, as in the case of the lower ones, they make a template, applying it with one end to the edge of the installed board, and the other to the purlin on which the upper rafters will rest. They cut it out and try it on at all points on both sides of the roof. If the racks were fixed in parallel, there would be no problems with upper rafters there shouldn't be.
According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is made. They are placed on longitudinal beams with cuts, fastened with corners and in the upper part connected with scraps of boards with screws or metal plates. They are often fastened with cuts to the transverse beams: hanging racks 25 x 150 mm are fixed between the junction of two rafters and the attic tie.
Next, the attic ceiling is installed in the same way as the floor, when boards are laid on the sides on nailed bars.

Installation of the frame for sewing up the pediment, it is called half-timbering. Here it is indicated window hole. Its racks can be a 50 x 150mm board with a pitch of about 600-700mm. Important: the rib of the post must run across the pediment, creating additional rigidity.
Now you can start covering the pediment with boards. It is worth doing this before laying the sheathing, so that later, if some boards extend beyond the rafters, it will be easier to cut them down. If you do the opposite, you will have to adjust the corner of each board to fit the existing sheathing. Up to the attic floor beam, the pediment is covered with boards horizontally. The remaining piece of the pediment is sewn vertically.
The top connections are made. Since the gable frame beams were attached to a fairly flexible floor beam, it is necessary to create a kind of stiffening truss using the next floor beam.
A brace is installed that expands the upper part of the rafters. Its base is attached to the third floor beam from the edge, and its end rests on the outermost point of the ridge. This element is used more often with soft roofing, when the rigidity of the ridge is not enough.

If the house is completely framed, then it is necessary to install such connections in the ceiling of the first floor. If the house is reinforced concrete, then there is already a stiffening belt in the upper part of the ceiling and does not need connections.
In some cases, it is also necessary to provide stiffening connections in the rafters. If corrugated sheeting or metal tiles are used as roofing, then the rafters no longer need to be reinforced: the sheet material will already serve as a rigidity diaphragm if it is installed well.

Fastening elements to each other can be very diverse, for example, staples with nails, wooden or metal plates, MZP (metal gear plates, whose teeth are driven in with a sledgehammer). It is important to remember that the length of the nails should be at least twice the thickness of the board you are nailing.

Fastening the sheathing

Depending on the chosen roof covering, sheathing is laid at the final stage of attic construction.

The sheathing is a structure made of beams that are laid perpendicular to the rafter legs, attached specifically to them. The function of the sheathing is to take on the weight of the roofing, holding it securely in place.

Lathing for sheet covering It is a continuous sheathing and is made from 25mm edged boards. The width should be no more than 140mm, since wide boards tend to deform. If there is more than 1 m between the rafters, then it may be necessary to speed up the movement of the rafters with special bars, and then lay out the boards. Next, roofing felt or glassine is placed, and roofing material is spread on top. It should be noted that such lathing makes the roof extremely reliable and is suitable for absolutely all types of coatings, while reducing noise from rain.

Sheathing for metal tiles make it sparse and, if possible, adjust it to the course of the waves of the tiles. Mounted from edged boards 25(30) x 100mm in increments of 80-100cm. The peculiarity is that before installation on the rafters, a waterproof membrane is strengthened. The first board from the eaves should be installed higher than the others at the height of the wave of the tiles. If short boards are used, it is better to place their joints in a checkerboard pattern.

Lathing for ceramic tiles and other piece elements are considered the most complex. The work also begins with the installation of a hydraulic barrier, and then a sparse sheathing is made from 50 x 50 mm bars. The difficulty is to maintain a precise rhythm between the elements, since one step is equal to the covering surface of one tile.

There are always several approaches to the process of any construction. Here we described how to make an attic with your own hands on an already built house, however, there are cases when the attic is assembled in a position on the ground and placed in its place with the help of a crane, and then strengthened in the right places.

The attic roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living space, while the financial investment will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build yourself.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the attic roof you can arrange living rooms. The shape of the building can be different, but in most cases the attic is built under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to obtain a significant area of living space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard roof

The first step is to decide on the frame diagram. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Layered ones rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters placed on fillies and mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ties.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of an attic is the ceiling level - it must be higher than 2.5 m. To ensure a similar height, the break line must be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and cladding of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

Minimum ceiling height mansard roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S = Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is the value that depends on the roof slope (1.0 - For flat design with a slope of 25°, 0.7 - for a design with a slope of 25–60°).

Parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the “Rafter systems” section. If the roof has steep slope, then the load from snow can be ignored.

Roof structure

The frame structure includes the following parts:

Mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
purlins - horizontal supporting parts for rafters;
sheathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
fillies - strips that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, purlins, floor beams and other elements

A sloping roof differs from an ordinary structure with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes, which are placed opposite each other, have a special shape: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes that are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is generally set at an angle of about 60°. The support posts that support the rafters form the frame structure of the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45°. This makes it possible to reduce material consumption, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to loads from snow.

Vertical posts that rest against the floor planks, purlins and crossbars that fasten them form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafters.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After installing the upper elements, to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, you should install hanging support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with the uprights using tacks. The parts are fastened using nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of an attic

If you decide to make such a structure yourself, it is important to provide for the use of the following materials in the project:

roofing material;
vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
insulation material.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of insulation, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits tightly between them. The type of sheathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for roofing. You need to pay attention not only to choosing high-quality material for insulation, but also to creating an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is arranged by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire retardants. You will need to prepare the following elements:

wooden blocks with a cross section of 100x50 mm;
slats 50x150 mm;
unedged boards;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
plumb line;
roulette;
hacksaw;
axe;
hammer;
sharp knife.

Drafting

One of the most important parts of the work is drafting the project. It is very important to analyze the layout features of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being built, and also provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

All structural elements should be marked on the project

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

It is important to decide in advance what the height of the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the highest point of the structure must be at least 0.5 m.
It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main interior elements.
The attic layout should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with choosing a shape, determining the cross-section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, you need to take into account the following parameters:

slope;
roof roofing material;
climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts to fix. In the figure below you can see some of the data necessary for the calculation, but drawing up a project is a complex process. This work It is recommended to entrust it to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The design of the attic roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as the prepared project attic space. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of a roof rafter system with two slopes are:

linear elements (column, rod system, beam);
flat parts (slab, flooring, panel);
spatial elements (vault, shell, volumetric part).

Before carrying out work, you will need to thoroughly dry the wood. The first step is to mark and install the Mauerlat. It is fixed to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a block or a powerful lath. If you plan to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct distribution of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, you should use metal pins that are attached to a beam made of monolithic concrete.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal pins

The beam should be placed at the top of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To secure the Mauerlat to the upper rim of a wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. Auerlat requires execution high-quality waterproofing wooden beams. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing felt or other material with water-repellent properties.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing felt.

The installation of a Mauerlat is required if it is planned to construct a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the external supporting parts. It is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls as supports. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be secured to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the attic roof consists of floor beams, rafters, purlins and racks

Bars are often used as a material coniferous species 200x100 mm. The floor slats are placed on top of the mauerlat with an indentation of 30–50 cm beyond the surface of the walls or into prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed using angles and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the timber to the mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even floor, the planks should be installed in this sequence:

First of all, the outer parts are placed level.
Next, you should tighten the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
The pitch of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to install insulation boards without cutting.
To level the beams in height, they can be trimmed. Another option is to use plank underlays.
If beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their outer parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt.

You need to place the racks on the outer planks:

After installing the racks, crossbars and purlins, you can get a reliable structure that will limit the interior rooms of the attic. To increase its strength, it should be secured in the future with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After this, the upper elements are installed:

The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a stand that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and a tie from the end of the roof. The outermost part of the board should run along the center of the roof. The rafter legs need to be aligned along this board.
Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm slats. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted batten at the required level and to the purlin on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
You should mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out a template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the marking of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in securing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
According to the preparation, you need to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on purlins and tied together in the upper parts using iron plates or trim strips. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the purlin, the rafter strips rest against the cuts and are caught with iron corners. To ensure that the parts stand straight, they are secured using struts, mounted with the lower part on ties. All rafters are installed using this method.
The hanging racks are fixed - pieces of 150x25 mm planks. The upper part of the batten is attached to the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tie.

Video: mansard roof rafter system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Sheathing of the structure

The sheathing is needed for:

distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
bases for fixing roofing material.

The sheathing can be made in one or two layers, continuous or with vacuum.

The sheathing can be solid or with relief

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof is being built from slate or metal tiles, the sheathing should be made of slats that are attached to the rafters with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

Continuous lathing is used when fastening soft material in rolls.

Solid sheathing is necessary for a soft roof

In this case, you can use moisture-resistant plywood sheets or particle boards. It is allowed to use pine wood material- trim strips.

It is important to take into account the fact that when installing such a sheathing, the material that will be laid must follow the contours of the external base. That's why frame construction must be strong and level.

When laying out the material, you should use a cord, with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. The parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from rotting, fungus and dampness. The workpieces must be smooth and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. There should be no knots on it. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

Sequence of actions for installing the sheathing:

Waterproofing a mansard roof

The roofing material does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare quality material, which will be environmentally safe for human health. Quite often used mineral wool or glass wool. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to take into account that if the roof is made of metal, if the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the design.

Insulate an attic without a gasket waterproofing material will not work, so the process should be considered in its entirety. Step by step guide for waterproofing the structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect insulation with modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives poor results, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the structure with roofing felt.

Before proceeding with the work, you need to decide on the thermal insulation material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

glass wool;
mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
foam glass;
wood shavings;
straw.

The material must be selected taking into account four parameters.

Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or lower is optimal.
Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
Fire resistance.
Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after some time. The material can also be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Step-by-step guide to roof insulation:

Laying roofing materials and installing window openings

As an example, we will consider the installation of metal tiles, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the useful glazing area to the base of the floor of 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m2. When installing windows, you need to consider the following nuances:

Attic finishing

The interior decoration of the attic can be done using wood or plasterboard sheets. If the latter option is used, then after installation the sheets must be covered with wallpaper or painted. water-based paint. In some cases, the attic is divided into several rooms. This can be done using plasterboard partitions.

If you plan to use the attic frequently, then the floor and walls can be additionally insulated. This can be done using, for example, mineral wool.

Interesting attic room design options

The attic can be made cozy by symmetrically arranging sofas on both sides. In the attic you can place a long sofa. In the attic you can create a place to relax by hanging a hammock. In the attic you can make not only a living space, but also a bathroom. On the attic floor you can even make a kitchen. If on the territory it is not possible to place a hammock, then this can be done on the attic floor. One of the parts of the attic can be completely glazed. The attic can be an excellent place to create a home library. The walls of the attic can be lined with brick. In the attic, you can arrange a full-fledged living room. On the attic floor, you can arrange a rest room. in a beautiful area, the roof can be made panoramic. The bed can be placed facing the window. In the attic, you can make a bedroom with high ceilings. In the attic, you can place a hanging chair. This will make the roof more comfortable

Video: making a mansard roof

Recently, the mansard-type roof has become quite popular among owners of private houses. To experience all the positive aspects of living in a building of this type, you need to pay due attention to the insulation of the building.

It is not uncommon for a situation when, for one reason or another, a house that until recently seemed quite comfortable becomes cramped, or the dacha needs to be turned into permanent residence, while simultaneously increasing the area. Also, often the need for major reconstruction and expansion arises when purchasing a house with “experience”. You can get an increase in square footage in two ways - by adding a room or building on it. For many, adding a residential attic floor is a more preferable option, since there is no need to additionally fill the foundation, and there is not always enough space on the site for an extension. And among portal craftsmen, the addition of an attic floor is quite popular, and in this article they share the experience gained with those who are just deciding what to do and what to do.

What is an attic in a house?
Features of the construction of the attic floor during reconstruction.
Experience of portal participants.

What is an attic at home?

By definition, an attic is a residential or non-residential premises in the attic space. However, in practice, only cold attics remain non-residential, and the attic is residential ( all year round or seasonally) space under an insulated roof of a special configuration. Unlike a full second floor, part of the walls in the attic is formed by roof slopes, which somewhat limits its functionality. Attic floors have always been popular, have not lost it to this day and are unlikely to lose it in the future.

Modern technologies make it possible to organize premises for any purpose in attics, as well as in full second floors - these can be bedrooms, offices, children's or guest rooms. Today it is not a problem to place a full bathroom in the attic if necessary, not to mention a bathroom with a shower. Kitchens in attic rooms are a rather rare phenomenon; they mainly appear in cases where two families live and have a separate entrance from the street.

Perhaps the main condition for a comfortable existence under a roof is a height of 2.5 meters at the central point.

The permissible minimum for an attic floor according to sanitary standards is 2.3 meters, although in practice other sizes are also found.

Features of the attic superstructure

Whether to build an attic is decided based on two factors:

availability of technical capabilities;
expediency.

The main question is whether the walls of a worn-out house will withstand the weight of the proposed structure, even if we are talking about the lightest, frame version. Therefore, the first step is to draw up a plan and make an approximate calculation of the bearing capacity of the walls and foundation. It’s not so much the type that will play a role here. wall material, how much is the condition of the walls. Other log houses with half a century of history are much stronger than those of “youthful” stone buildings.

The feasibility of such a global reconstruction depends on the dimensions of the house - if it is too compact, then the residential attic, taking into account the design features, will turn out to be tiny. If the width of the house is less than five meters, then it is pointless to build on a structure such as an attic floor. However, despite all the restrictions, sometimes a small interesting attic room It’s better than nothing, the main thing is that the walls can hold up and your wallet can handle it.

But even if the walls are strong, the multiply increased load must be evenly distributed, for which an armored belt is poured around the perimeter of the stone base.

When pouring the armored belt, fasteners for the Mauerlat (studs) are immediately placed into it, which will firmly fix the entire structure in place.

Without sufficient insulation, it is impossible to build an attic even for seasonal stay, since without insulation in the summer there will be a steam room in the attic. The attic in a residential building is insulated around the entire perimeter to create closed loop– ceilings, inclined and vertical walls, pediments. Today, insulation can be anything from typical slabs, rolls and mats to blow-in, fill-in and spray-on. However, regardless of the type, its thickness must be sufficient to ensure the standard thermal resistance coefficient of the wall (tabular data by region).

If we are talking about mineral slab heat insulators, which are used most often, then for most regions 150-200 mm is sufficient. It is more efficient to lay this thickness in several layers with overlapping seams to minimize heat leakage. Since the attic is a heated room, great importance is given to the construction of a vapor barrier so that warm air did not provoke condensation in the insulation or roofing pie.

For the free removal of moisture, which, despite all the barriers, will accumulate between the insulation and the roofing of the attic floor, a ventilation gap of at least 5 cm is required, and ideally a ridge aerator.

The simplest option is a vertical window installed in the gables, but for proper lighting, special dormer windows are also needed, mounted directly into the roof.

The number of windows is calculated based on the permissible minimum - for every 10 m² of area 1 m² of glass.

If the plans include skylights, then even when assembling the rafter system it is worth calculating the pitch of the rafters according to their dimensions, taking into account the seam.

In most cases, frame and timber attics are built on, since they are lighter, cheaper, and the construction process is faster. Considering that the house is residential, the sooner it is under the roof again after dismantling the old one, the better. If they choose a more capital, stone option, then they give preference to lightweight materials (gas block, foam block, expanded clay concrete).

Experience of portal participants

Major reconstruction of the house of one of our craftsmen with the nickname Soboleff was subjected twice - first from summer cottage it was turned into permanent residence, and then an attic space was added. Comment from our user:

Soboleff

The long-awaited warmth has arrived, and with it the beginning of the realization of an old dream - replacing the old roof with an attic. All winter we were busy with calculations, drawing a plan, designing in “ketchup”, saving money. I think this report will be of interest to those who have a house that is not very large in size, quite old and built from what was there. In my case, this is a former summer kitchen, converted into a residential building of about 60 m² 30 years ago.

The development of amenities and active changes in the layout in order to increase the level of comfort have been carried out over the past few years.

Walls made of sand-lime brick They were put together somehow, the foundation also touched the technology sideways, so the craftsman decided not to take risks and make a frame superstructure. The height of the walls of the building is 1200 mm, from the finished floor to the ridge - 3500 mm, a gable roof with a corresponding pie, metal tiles are used as roofing. According to the layout, on the attic floor there are a couple of children's rooms of 16 square meters each, a common corridor, a bathroom above the existing ground floor and a low storage room.

Attic floor, layout.

Dismantling revealed sagging, rotten beams and the deplorable state of the masonry in the upper rows; not only these rows were replaced, but also wooden beams above window openings to the corner.

The perimeter lined with brick was filled with sheathing, reinforcement was laid, pins were inserted to secure the mauerlat, and an armored belt was poured.

Secondly, the internal partitions were brought up to the level of the external walls, the floor beams were laid, the subfloor was hemmed, and the frame assembly began. All wooden materials pre-treated with fire bioprotection.

The role of the jibs to impart rigidity is assigned to the slab sheathing - OSB 3, all joints of the slabs and the frame were foamed. The thickness of the stone wool insulation on the ceiling is 200 mm, on the walls - 150 mm, plus another 50 mm further along the perimeter of the entire facade.

For ventilation, a “cold triangle” was left at the very top. The craftsman applied four overlapping layers of insulation along this flat area of the ceiling. A roofing “pie” according to all the rules – with waterproofing, wind protection and counter-lattice.

On the walls attic room outside, they also filled a counter-lattice from a 50 mm bar with a pitch under the insulation sheet, laid the slabs, and covered the contour with a wind barrier. The slabs were fixed to the house using hangers and plastic disc dowels. On top of the wind protection is a galvanized profile 60x27 mm, creating a ventilation gap and a subsystem for siding.

Probably the best way to increase the usable area of your own home is to replace the gable roof of the house with a mansard one. This way you can purchase one, two or even three additional rooms without having to cut out extra space on the site and without dealing with the very labor-intensive processes of pouring a new foundation and erecting walls. And to find out how to make an attic correctly, you need to consider all the stages of its arrangement, starting with calculations and ending with roof covering and finishing of the resulting additional rooms.

In order for all the work to be successful, first of all you need to make sure that the existing walls (if the superstructure is being built in an old house) are able to withstand the additional load. This factor will determine whether such a construction project is worth undertaking, and if so, which attic roof design would be best to choose.

It should be noted that the load on load-bearing walls will increase significantly - due to a larger number of rafters, due to the mass of interior decoration of walls and floors, windows and doors, insulation systems, as well as all elements of the interior filling of attic rooms. All of these factors indicate that you need to start with a choice optimal design attic, with calculations, design and drawings of the future superstructure.

Types of attic superstructures

According to current building regulations An attic is considered to be a room under the roof that has a height from the ceiling to the ridge of at least 2500 mm. If this parameter is less than the specified limit, then the room is considered an ordinary attic.

If the vertical posts that determine the height of the walls of the room are 1500 mm in size, then the attic space can be considered a full floor.
A semi-attic is an attic space in which there are no vertical posts at all, or if they have a height of 500 to 700 mm.

The basis of any roof structure is always triangles with their “rigid” structure

There are several types of attic superstructures, but the most popular of them are high gable and broken structures. Their popularity can be explained by simpler calculations, relatively simple installation work and ease of use. In third place, after gable and broken structures, we can name a single-pitch roof option, which is also sometimes used for arranging an attic. Unfortunately, not every house design can use this type of superstructure, since it requires not only reconstruction of the roof, but also raising the already built walls, which significantly increases the load on both them and the foundation.

If it is being built new house, and the second floor is planned in the form of an attic, then a pitched roof option is well suited for this purpose. In addition, this will help save on roofing material.

More complex structures - domed, hipped, and also with various cantilever projections arranged in the roof slopes (single-level and multi-level) are used extremely rarely and only in exclusive projects, since they have a complex design both in engineering calculations and in installation.

The figure below the numbers shows:

1 – Gable attic.

2 – Broken attic

3 – Single-level cantilever attic

4 – Multi-level attic.

Gable attic

Attic space under d a vuskat roof, which is arranged at an angle between the slopes of 80 ÷ 90 degrees at the ridge, can easily be converted into an attic. To create full-fledged residential premises under it, it will be necessary to carry out a number of necessary reconstructions; for example, very often it cannot be done without strengthening the attic floor. All these alterations, plus the necessary insulation, will certainly “eat up” a significant part of the usable space under the roof, so you should not expect that the rooms in such an attic will be spacious and with high ceilings.

Of course, if the dimensions (length and width) of the house are large enough, and the roof has a significant angle of inclination (45 degrees or even higher), then after the alterations you can count on a relatively spacious attic space.

broken roof

The room under the sloping attic roof will be much more spacious and with a fairly high ceiling. Such an attic can be easily divided into two separate rooms.

Interior of an attic made according to the “broken” type

The sloping roof has four planes of slopes. Place them under different angles— the upper slopes are called ridge slopes, and the lower ones are called side slopes. They, for the most part, act as walls.

This type of mansard roof is somewhat more difficult to design and install, but the result will delight you with spacious rooms and a respectable appearance Houses.

Single-level cantilever attic

This type of attic has even more complex design, than the previous one, since it implies a displacement attic space one way or the other.

Using this option for installing an attic, you can get spacious rooms, much larger in area than under a pitched roof.

The design of a single-level attic roof can replicate not only a gable, but also a single-slope version - this will depend on how much it is planned to move the console out of the attic and raise its ceiling.

Multi-level add-on

Multi-level construction is the most difficult to design and install. The help of qualified specialists will definitely be needed in its development and construction. The supports for the levels of the attic rooms are various rafter systems and ceilings, which are combined with the main one. A multi-level system involves the arrangement of rooms at different levels of the attic, which is why the consoles should be located this way.

Having chosen the most desirable type of attic, you need to determine whether it is possible to install it on the old walls of the house, or whether they will have to be strengthened. Therefore, you need to make accurate calculations and draw up a project.

Roof truss basics

Most roofs, and attic roofs are no exception, have one of two types of rafter systems, or a combination of them. Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, which depend on the location of the load-bearing walls of the building.

Hanging system

A hanging rafter system is defined by the fact that it is supported only by two external main walls located along the length of the building, in which there are no internal main partitions.

Such a system is used provided that the distance between the main supports is no more than 13 ÷ 14 meters. In any case, this design puts a fairly large load on the walls and foundation of the building.

To weaken the loads in this system, various support structures are used. elements - crossbars, headstocks, struts, tightening, racks and other parts.

For example, the headstocks seem to hang the entire system to the ridge beam, and the struts pull the ceiling beams to the rafters.

For the attic floor in this system, it is necessary to use thick bars, logs or boards that are installed on the edge. Their thickness can be determined from the table given in this publication, taking as a basis the distance between the support points.

In order for the ceiling to be reliable and durable when using a hanging system, you need to make accurate calculations, and if it is difficult to do this yourself, then it is better

Layered design

The layered system is distinguished by the fact that it has supports not only on external main walls, but also on internal partitions that have a foundation underneath them.

Therefore, when starting the construction of a house in which an attic is planned, you need to think in advance about the location of the internal capital partitions.

For a house with an attic, a layered system is the best option, since the beams covering the house will be firmly and securely fixed to the walls and partitions.

When constructing a broken attic roof structure, you can use combined option rafter system, that is, use elements of both hanging and layered systems.

Attic design

When drawing up a project for the construction of any type of attic, it is recommended to consider it in different projections in order to clearly determine the location of all supporting elements. When calculating all the parameters of the attic, they must be immediately included in the project.

Based on the calculations made, the locations and methods of installation of all structural elements of the rafter system are determined. Calculation is also necessary to accurately determine the materials needed for the construction of the attic and their parameters.

Design elements

Any of the wooden structures of the attic roof consists of certain elements that are connected to each other by connecting nodes having different configurations. To better understand the design of these connections, it is recommended to draw each of them, and when making installation work- Be sure to have this drawing on hand.

The design of a sloping mansard roof includes the following components of the system:

Mauerlat - element, made from wooden beam and laid on the main walls of the building in its length. It serves to evenly distribute the load from the rafter system structure onto the wall and foundation. Rafter legs are installed and secured to the Mauerlat. This element is mounted both in a gable and in a sloping attic roof structure.
Floor beams, which are laid on the main walls of the building and form the basis for the future attic floor and the ceiling of the first floor, as well as for the installation of the entire rafter system.
The rafter leg consists of one straight element - bar or boards in a gable roof, or from two parts - in a broken structure. In a sloping attic roof, the upper part, fixed to the ridge, is called the ridge, and the lower part, which forms the walls of the attic, is called the side. Obviously, the side leg will be installed according to the layered principle, while the upper ridge rafter- usually becomes droopy
For the ridge, a beam or board of a certain thickness is used. Sometimes they do without this by connecting the upper ridge parts of the rafter legs, which form the ridge.
Racks are the supporting elements of the system. They support the rafter legs and relieve some of the load from the walls and foundation of the building. The racks will later become the sheathing for the walls, which will be installed during the finishing of the attic.
Bevels or other elements installed diagonally are additional supports that fasten the rafters and supporting beams, making the design of the system more reliable.
Between the rafter legs, for rigidity, bars are installed, called inter-rafter purlins - they also give rigidity to the system.

Carrying out basic calculations of the attic

It is quite difficult to independently develop a mansard roof project, since this process requires certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific architectural calculations. If you make mistakes, the attic structure will be unreliable, and in addition, its weight can damage the walls and foundation of the building.

Everything must be taken into account in the calculations - from the beginning of construction to the finishing of the premises.

However, if the design is not too complex, then you can try to cope on your own.

Calculation of ridge height

Size usable area attic space depends on the height of the roof ridge, and the latter is determined by the selected slope of the slopes - the smaller this angle, the lower the ceiling and, accordingly, the smaller effective area attic space.

N=L× tgα

N— ridge height;

L- ½ the width of the building (if we are talking about a gable symmetrical roof);

α - angle of inclination of the rafter system slope.

Diagram - for clarity

As an example, you can substitute the data used in the formula above:

Building size 8×10 m, slope angle 30°, tangent 30°= 0.58

H = 8/2 × 0.58 = 2.32 m

The height of the ridge will be equal to 2,32 m.

The process and all other related parameters are described in great detail, with all possible nuances and necessary reference tables, from a separate publication devoted specifically to this issue.

Square internal space attics

The method used to determine the area of the attic space will make it possible to calculate the amount of material required for the construction of the rafter system, for insulation and finishing. Particularly accurate calculations are important if the attic will be used to furnish additional living rooms, as they require special design.

Usually the entire area of the room under the roof is calculated, that is, both useful and the so-called "deaf". The living space is limited by installed racks, which will be the basis for the installation and finishing material of the walls. The area behind them is considered deaf, that is, most often not used.

The total area is calculated quite simply: the width of the overhangs on both sides is added to the width of the building. The resulting amount is multiplied by the length of the building.

It’s also easy to find the area of living space: to do this you need to measure the width attic space between the racks installed under one and the other roof slope, and multiply the resulting parameter by the length of the attic from gable to gable.

Roofing area

In order to determine in advance the amount of roofing material, it is necessary to calculate the total area of the roof slopes.

If you decide to install a broken or even more complex structure, you need to calculate the area of all sections of the roof. To do this, it needs to be divided into separate geometric figures, and then calculate the area of each of them and add up the results.

For those who do not firmly remember the formulas for calculating the areas of flat figures, a diagram is provided - a “cheat sheet”.

Shed roof area

If the attic roof is pitched, then its area can be calculated using the formula: Sabcd = Lcd × Lbd.

The area of one slope - nothing could be simpler

Pay attention to the picture. When calculating, not only length and width are taken into account truss structure slope - we must not forget about the eaves overhangs on all sides.

Gable roof

With a symmetrical arrangement of roof slopes, to calculate a gable roof, all that remains is to multiply the value obtained above by two.

For example, let's take the same example discussed above. The size of the building is 10×8 m. The angle of the slope is 30°, the height of the ridge H = 2.32 m. It is easy to determine the length of the rafters - S

S = Н / sin α = 2.32 / 0.5 = 4.64 m

We accept cornice overhang 0,7 m, gable overhang 0,7 m. Using the formula for a pitched roof, the area of one slope is calculated.

(10 + 2×0.7) × (4.64 + 0.7) = 60.88 m²

Then, to get the total area of the two slopes, the resulting result is multiplied by two.

Q = 121.76 m²

This technique is intended for calculating the continuous surface of slopes, without taking into account windows, ventilation ducts and chimneys.

If the roof has a very complex structure, then it is better not to take risks and still seek help from professionals who will make the necessary calculations using special computer applications.

When using slate, soft roofing, others profile materials, you can use a simplified calculation formula.

Let's start from the picture:

So, the following formula is applicable for calculation:

Q= K × (B + 2A) × (L+2C)

Q— the required amount of roofing;

IN — width of the building (along the gable wall);

A— the width of the planned roof eaves;

L- total length of the building;

C- width of the side overhangs of the roof.

TO is a coefficient that takes into account the angle of inclination of the slope relative to the horizon (α). By and large, it represents trigonometric function secant (sec), equal to the reciprocal of cosα.

In order not to go deep into theory, it’s easier to give a table of the coefficient TO in absolute, that is, numerical dimension:

Tilt angle, degrees	Factor K	Tilt angle, degrees	Factor K	Tilt angle, degrees	Factor K	Tilt angle, degrees	Factor K
1	1.0002	18	1.0515	36	1.2361	53	1.6616
2	1.0006	19	1.0576	37	1.2521	54	1.7013
3	1.0014	20	1.0642	38	1.2690	55	1.7434
4	1.0024	21	1.0711	39	1.2868	56	1.7883
5	1.0038	22	1.0785	40	1.3054	57	1.8361
6	1.0055	23	1.0864	41	1.3250	58	1.8871
7	1.0075	24	1.0946	42	1.3456	59	1.9416
8	1.0098	25	1.1034	43	1.3673	60	2.0000
9	1.0125	26	1.1126	44	1.3902	61	2.0627
10	1.0154	27	1.1223	45	1.4142	62	2.1301
11	1.0187	28	1.1326	46	1.4396	63	2.2027
12	1.0223	29	1.1434	47	1.4663	64	2.2812
13	1.0263	30	1.1547	48	1.4945	65	2.3662
14	1.0306	31	1.1666	49	1.5243	66	2.4586
15	1.0353	32	1.1792	50	1.5557	67	2.5593
16	1.0403	33	1.1924	51	1.5890	68	2.6695
17	1.0457	34	1.2062	52	1.6243	69	2.7904
		35	1.2208			70	2.9238

Let's return to our example:

Q= 1.1547 × (8 + 2 × 0.7) × (10+2 × 0.7) = 123.74 m²

Taking into account overlaps slate sheets– the result is practically the same as in calculations carried out by a different method. Of course, on the advice of experienced builders, another 10 ÷ 15 should be added to the resulting area when purchasing roofing material %

(The figure shows a gable roof, however, the formula is fully suitable for calculations with the required level of accuracy for single-pitch or hip roofs. However, with a caveat - hip roof The steepness of the main and side slopes must match. If not, then the calculation is carried out for each pair of slopes separately, and then the value is summed).

Total weight of troping system and roofing

It is equally important to correctly select the optimal material for the roofing and correctly make the sheathing for it. This calculation is carried out taking into account the length of the rafters and their slope angle.

The lathing for roofing material can be sparse, mixed or solid. For example, metal tiles, corrugated sheets or slate are fixed to a sparse sheathing, and a soft roof - only to a solid one.

When choosing a roof, you need to obtain information about its performance characteristics. The durability and reliability of the roof structure will depend on them. Roofing material you must also choose taking into account the specific region and its climatic conditions, especially factors such as temperature changes and strong winds.

An important factor is the weight of the roofing, especially if the attic roof is installed on old walls. Therefore, you should estimate the weight of the roof in advance and find out how much the load on the building structure will increase, and whether it will be acceptable.

Roofing material for attic roof	Roof slope	Material weight kg/m²
Asbestos cement slate sheets with medium profile	From 1:10 to 1:2	11
Slate with reinforced profile	From 1:5 to 1:1	13
Bituminous shingles	From 1:10 and more	6 - 8
Soft roofing with continuous sheathing	From 1:10 and more	9 - 15
Galvanized metal sheets with single folds	From 1:4 and more	3 - 6,5
Double folded	From 1:5 and more	3 - 6,5
Ceramic tiles	From 1:5 to 1:0.5	50 - 60
Cement-sand tiles	From 1:5 to 1:0.5	45 - 70
Metal tiles	From 1:5 and more	5 - 7
Ondulin	From 1:10 and more	3 - 3,5

Most often, soft roofing or ondulin is used to cover attics, since these materials are among those that have the lightest weight and are easy to install.

For example, you can calculate the weight of 1 square meter of roofing, where ondulin is used for covering, taking into account the sheathing and insulation - sprayed polyurethane foam. To do this, you need to find the sum of the weight of each of the materials and multiply by a factor of 1.1 (this factor takes into account the overlap on adjacent sheets of roofing material).

The weight of a flat sheathing, 20 mm thick (plywood or OSB) is 14 kg/m².
Insulation – polyurethane foam, 100 mm thick, has an average weight of 3 kg/m²
The average weight of ondulin is 3.3 kg/m²

We get in total:

(14 + 3 + 3.3) × 1.1=22.3kg/m²

To calculate the total weight load of the roof on the walls, you need to multiply the weight of one square meter by the area of the entire covering. In our example this will work:

M = 123.74 × 22.3 = 2751.82 kg.

A lot - almost 3 tons - is provided only by a very light roof covering with sheathing and also a very light type of insulation.

But this is not all! Snow loads on the roof winter period, plus wind pressure, all year round. These parameters are also necessarily taken into account when calculating the necessary wooden elements the design of the rafter system and floor beams, and taking into account the total load of the roof structure on the walls and foundation of the building.

— Then, the entire system is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the joists with staples.

— Boards or plywood sheets can be laid on top of it.

— Decorative covering is laid on them — it can be linoleum, laminate, parquet board and other materials.

Additional insulation can be created by laying electric cable or infrared heated floors under the decorative covering. It is better to read about these possibilities separately in the article dedicated to

If the floor is mounted on floor beams, you will have to work from the side of the first floor.

— On the side of the lower room, boards are mounted on the floor beams. It is desirable that they be smooth; you can even use a floorboard for the subfloor.

— After that, a vapor barrier film is laid on these boards from the attic side, which will cover not only the subfloor, but also the floor beams.

— Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it and attached to the beams.

- Then, logs are attached to this covering perpendicular to the beams.

— Another layer of insulation is installed between the joists; it is better to choose mineral wool for it, since it, when straightened, fits tightly between the bars, leaving no voids.

— Then it should also be covered with a vapor barrier material.

If you decide to cover the floor with one of decorative coatings, then plywood sheets are laid on top of the logs, and then laminate, linoleum or other materials are laid on them. Again, nothing prevents you from using, for example, film floor heating in this case.

Installation of insulation on the walls and ceiling of the attic

Having finished installing the floor, you can proceed to installing the insulation on the walls.

— If material in mats is chosen for this process, then before laying it, sheets of vapor barrier material are fixed to the rafters.

It is fixed in such a way as to cover the entire space and deepen it between the rafters.

If the vapor barrier is fixed on the other side of the rafters, then the mats will independently adhere between two wooden surfaces.

— If one of them is selected, then there is no need to attach a vapor barrier film under it. Waterproofing, which is laid on the rafters on the outside of the structure, will be sufficient.

Spraying polyurethane foam - quickly and efficiently, but requires special equipment and work skills

To use this insulation technology, you must have a special technological equipment, or you will have to invite a specialist who will do the job in one day. It is not easy to carry out this operation on your own without experience - in order to complete the work without harming your health, you need to know the technology of the process and have the necessary protective equipment.

After insulation works, wall cladding is being carried out.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Attic wall decoration

Before you start decorating the walls, it is necessary to resolve the issue of electrical wiring, the cable of which must be well insulated using double-layer corrugated pipes.

Once the electrical cable has been laid out, you can safely begin installing the finishing material.

Usually used for finishing wooden lining, drywall or plywood with a beautiful textured pattern.

For any of these materials, it is advisable to rafter legs and vertical posts, make a sheathing of slats with a cross-section of approximately 20 × 70 mm. These guides are fixed in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition to the fact that the sheathing of slats becomes the basis for attaching the finishing, it also forms a ventilation gap between the finishing material and the vapor barrier.

made quite simply. It makes the walls smooth and neat, ready for painting, pasting with traditional wallpaper or even applying liquid wallpaper.

Therefore, plasterboard finishing should be chosen by those homeowners who like to frequently change the interior design of their premises.

Finishing walls with clapboard is a longer and more labor-intensive process than. For such cladding, a lathing with the above parameters is also perfect. The only thing you need to think about is the direction of the lining boards, that is, it should be located vertically with the sheathing oriented horizontally and vice versa.

If desired, after installation the wood can be varnished water based or give it a deeper color by using stain.

Wood is an amazing material that can create indoors. special atmosphere with the aroma of the forest, which has a positive effect on the structure and well-being of residents. That is why natural lining is very often chosen for cladding the floor, walls and ceiling of the attic.

Video: insulating an attic space and finishing it with clapboard

You can come up with a wonderful finish using plywood. But only if it will not be covered with paint on top, then you need to choose a high-quality material that has a beautiful natural pattern. Plywood is installed much faster than lining, and makes the walls even, covering large surfaces at once.

This material can be covered with varnish, paint or any type of wallpaper, but you can leave the walls in their natural state, only by carefully cleaning out possible defects in the form of protruding splinters or burrs.

Building an attic is a rather labor-intensive and complex process that requires high experience in the construction trade. If no one has any idea about the above-described technological operations, then you shouldn’t undertake it yourself - it’s better to invite professional craftsmen to carry out the work. They will get rid of unnecessary problems and will build the attic according to the project conceived by the owner of the house.