Plank floors on floor slabs. Types of structures of various floors on reinforced concrete slabs, their component layers

Floors made from monolithic reinforced concrete floor slabs have long been known and have proven themselves in the construction of private and multi-storey buildings. To this day, they are in demand and popular, especially in the construction of cottages. large area. Reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs have a lot of advantages; the design of these slabs is such that, in addition to evenly distributing the load over the entire surface, they also additionally add rigidity and stability to the building.

General information and advantages of reinforced concrete slabs

The slabs are made of concrete, in which iron reinforcement is installed during pouring. The slabs along their length have round longitudinal voids, which in combination with reinforcement gives the structure huge advantage. Iron concrete slab able to withstand bends, not break under high loads, it is very durable when properly used during construction. Monolithic slabs Factory-produced floors meet all the requirements for floors; they are durable and resistant to high temperatures. It is very important that the reinforced concrete slab is a good sound insulator and, in addition, retains heat.

Equally important is the fact that the use of slabs in construction greatly speeds up and simplifies the process; they can be installed where no other flooring method is suitable. For example, laying the floors of a private house with an area of ​​over 100 m² using pouring will take a lot of time, in addition to labor costs, as well as financial expenses will be much higher than when laying the floor with reinforced concrete slabs.

Correct selection of slabs and calculations

When laying the floor of the first floor, you need to understand that a large load will be placed on it, so it is important to correctly calculate the weight of the structure and take into account everything, right down to the total weight of the house and the furniture or equipment that will be installed in the premises. The thickness of reinforced concrete slabs is standard and equal to 220 mm, but the slabs can be designed for different weight loads depending on their brand. Here, the reinforcement of the slab and what grade of concrete it is made of play a role.

Reinforced concrete slabs are produced in lengths of 2.4-6.8 meters, the width of such slabs, depending on the length, is 1.2-1.5 meters, and their weight is 0.9-2.5 tons. This allows the use of small equipment during construction, cranes with a lifting capacity of up to 3 tons. It is not difficult to understand which slab you need; a marking is placed on the surface, for example, a PC 8-42-12 slab will be 4.2 meters long, 1.2 m wide, with a weight load of 800 kg/m².

Rules for installing slabs depending on the floor

When laying floor slabs, it is important to consider where they will be laid, since the rules for installing a basement floor differ from laying floors between floors.

In the case of laying a basement floor, it is necessary to first carry out work to level the foundation, namely its upper edge. To do this, the upper edge of the foundation is not made of high formwork from boards; here it is necessary to pour a small layer of concrete to create a perfectly flat horizontal surface. Now a reinforced concrete slab can be laid on such a platform.

The slabs are laid taking into account their taper; it turns out that the lower part of the slab will fit smoothly with the adjacent row. A small seam forms at the top, which must be sealed with cement mortar. This results in an almost flat floor surface in the shortest possible time. Depending on the type of floor you'll be laying, you may need to use a thin screed, but for most flooring materials, a slab without additional finishing is suitable.

In the case when a reinforced concrete slab is laid as a floor between floors, an additional reinforced concrete belt must be made on the walls made of bricks or blocks. This is something like a seismic belt, which is performed as follows. When the height of the walls is laid out to the required height, another row is laid, but one layer needs to be laid in order to leave an inner end around the entire perimeter, into which the slab will lie, and from the outside this place will be covered with brick. Before laying the slab, as in the first case, it is necessary to perform formwork and pour a thin layer of concrete with reinforcement. As a result, a niche is formed with a small gap for laying insulation materials, where the slab is laid. Thin layer reinforced concrete increases the strength of the surface and evenly distributes the load from the slab along the walls.

Insulation

The floor slabs themselves serve good insulation, since they are located inside the premises of the house, there is no need to insulate them, however, it is necessary to insulate the ends. The stove has high thermal conductivity, which is undoubtedly good, because the stove top floor conducts heat from below and thus the floor becomes warm. But the stove will receive cold from the ends, so you need to protect it with a layer of insulation. In the niche that was formed during the reinforcement process, where the slab adjoins the wall, it is necessary to lay insulation. Then this space, like the rest of the cracks, is filled with concrete.

It is necessary to carry out insulation, otherwise condensation will form in these voids, which the slab will absorb and gradually collapse. In addition to the destruction of the slab, humidity will appear in the room, and in places where there is reinforcement, rust will appear, which will not be covered with any putty.

Actually this is the process of creating floors and interfloor ceilings finished, now you can start finishing the floor with materials. As already mentioned, you may have to apply a thin leveling layer of screed

With these types of work, construction equipment can greatly help you, for example

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs ensures comfortable living for people in the room.

Schematic diagram of a wood-chip floor.

Classification of floors is made by type of coating:

• planks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single-layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate empty.

Required tool:

Scheme of the ceiling over the ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor construction

Mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made from several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on the floor slabs, and a hard floor covering is placed on it - piece parquet or parquet panels. Plates are used for sound insulation Fiberboard brand 4, 12, 20.

Single layer construction

This floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be linoleum on a bioresistant basis, which is not subject to rotting processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of separate hollow core covering

Diagram of a soundproofing floor.

First, a soundproofing layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the finished floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden panels. If the room has a continuous flooring made of unplaned boards, then fiberboard slabs are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow-core floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80*40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floor covering, the distance between the joists is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

Installation of a separate hollow-core floor

Scheme self-installation floorboard.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5, density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar; uneven areas must simply be sanded. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room around the perimeter, a gap of 20-30 mm is made, which is filled soundproofing material and is subsequently covered with a plinth.

The outer covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is laid overlapping or the joints are coated with bitumen mortar. Then lay a layer of sound insulation made of mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard boards up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor arrangement diagram.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet panels, piece parquet) a popular material for the construction of floors. The installation of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. Block parquet floors made in a herringbone pattern with or without friezes look good.

First, you need to mark the rows of coverage to reduce waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and the lighthouse “Christmas tree” is laid on it. Focusing on it, the floor covering is installed with careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip using magpie nails, driving two into the side groove and one into the end groove. The caps are pressed deeper into the material using a hammer.

The installation of block parquet floors on screeds is made using a hot or cold bitumen solution in a “Christmas tree” pattern without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it using a special parquet planing machine or a hand plane; After sharpening, baseboards are installed, scraping and sanding of the floor are done. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The parquet scraping itself is done inexpensively by a private craftsman. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Floor insulation diagram for the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for finishing floors. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to chemicals, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular among developers. Disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, the linoleum is first kept in a rolled-out state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to absorb even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the bases must be level, clean, dry and strong. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rod. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboards, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a sand-cement mortar of 3:1 composition is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation in a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and smooth. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer cement-sand mixture composition 1:2. Permissible humidity grounds – no more than 10%.

The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the preparation of bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Floor sound insulation diagram.

They should be quite tough. The base boards should not sag. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well treated: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well sunk into the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by smoothing out the bulges, sealing the seams with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then lay linoleum.

Ceramic tile floors

To install a floor on floor slabs from ceramic tiles, a base is first made - a monolithic screed made of cement with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3:1; 4:1), the installation of which is carried out over a waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to glue hot glue onto the flooring. bitumen mastic waterproofing, then put a reinforced mesh and put a solution over it. To install the screed, you should use beacon wooden slats installed level along the walls of the room. Place the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse slats. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with solution.

Scheme of floor covering and insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Lay out the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, after which you should check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. According to the marks made on clean floor, lighthouse tiles are laid. Then corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. The prepared mortar is used to seal and lay the first row of tiles. After laying the frieze rows, they begin laying the tiles of the main floor covering pattern. In order not to step on already laid tiles, they begin to be laid from the far wall.

The solution used should be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, you should slightly settle it with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the block placed on top. Checking the horizontality of laid tiles is carried out as a rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. Remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Modern building material Laminated parquet is used to cover floors on floor slabs. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer that imitates wood. Dimensions of the planks: length – 1.2-1.7 m, width – up to 18 cm, thickness – from 6 to 14 mm. The laminate planks are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.

Concrete flooring is currently perhaps the most widespread in both residential and industrial construction. It is suitable for almost any finishing coating or can, after appropriate processing, be used independently. Its main advantages, subject to the filling technology, are high strength, resistance to destruction, and durability of use. It is not surprising that when conducting private construction or when renovating an apartment, in the vast majority of cases, homeowners opt for this particular flooring technology.

Is it worth inviting specialist builders, or is screeding a concrete floor with your own hands a completely affordable process for the average homeowner? This publication is devoted to answering these questions.

Types of concrete floor screeds

Concrete floor screeds may have different design, performed using slightly different technologies and intended for different purposes.

• Thus, they can serve solely for leveling the floor, which is carried out before installing the finishing coating. Powerful screeds serve as a reliable foundation in rooms where increased mechanical loads are expected. They can also perform the functions of ensuring the required thermal balance, acting, for example, as powerful heat accumulators in “warm floor” systems. Screeds are often used to cover communication systems. They can they are used and in order to create a certain slope in those rooms where it is necessary.
• Concrete screeds differ according to the number of layers:

— They can be single-layer, that is, poured simultaneously to the entire calculated height. This is usually used in industrial, utility or ancillary non-residential premises, where there are no increased requirements for the evenness of the floor.

— Multilayer screeds are poured in several stages. Usually the first layer serves as a rough base, and the top one creates a smooth surface for further work on floor coverings. This approach is also used in cases where the total thickness of the required screed reaches too large dimensions, and it is more expedient to do it in layers.

• Screeds also differ in the degree of adhesion to the base:

— Bound ties have direct contact with the base. Of course, with such a filling technology, maximum homogeneity of the materials and their high adhesion to each other must be ensured. Such coatings are characterized by good strength qualities in terms of withstanding high mechanical loads. However, the condition of the surface layer will largely depend on the moisture level of the base. Such screeds are mainly performed on dry floor slabs on the floors of buildings.

— In the case where the base does not have sufficient waterproofing, a screed is used as a separating layer. A layer of waterproofing material (roofing felt, polymer film, coating composition) becomes a barrier to the penetration of moisture from below, and the screed itself has no contact with the base. With this technology, the layer of poured mortar cannot be less than 30 mm and, as a rule, requires reinforcement.

This technology is often used when constructing screeds on the ground, for example, in garages, sheds, basements, and on the first floors of houses without basements. They also use it in rooms with high humidity levels.

— Where enhanced thermal insulation of the floor is required or there is a need for sound insulation, floating screeds are used. In this case, the concrete solution is poured over a layer of insulation of one type or another. The screed turns into a completely independent structure - a slab, not connected either to the base or to the walls of the room. Minimum thickness the fill in this case is at least 50 mm, and reinforcement of the screed becomes a prerequisite.

The humidity of such a screed is absolutely independent of the condition of the base, and a good insulating effect is achieved. Disadvantages - excessively large thickness, and therefore - load on the floor. Typically, such screeds are used only on the first floors of residential or ancillary buildings, especially if the filling is carried out on the ground.

• Screeds can be made with a homogeneous solution or include certain fillers:

— The addition of a cement-sand solution of polystyrene foam chips significantly increases the thermal insulation qualities of the coating.

Typically, such screeds require a second, strengthening and leveling layer.

— Where ties are required large thickness or with increased thermal insulation qualities, expanded clay is added to the concrete solution.

Expanded clay concrete has sufficient strength, but for laying some coatings, you will also need to fill in the front layer from ordinary mortar. But ceramic tiles can be laid directly on such a base.

Good performance show screeds with micro-reinforcement fiberglass. This technology allows you to dramatically increase the strength of the coating to mechanical loads, stretching, and bending.

Such screeds usually do not crack, are less susceptible to shrinkage during hardening, and have less dust formation. They are great for underfloor heating systems.

• flooring can be done using classic, “wet” technology, or semi-dry. Semi-dry screed is a relatively new thing, and not all more ready to try it out in practice. In addition, it requires special professionalism in preparation. mortar mixture, in laying out, compacting and leveling the mortar. Most home builders prefer to use proven “wet” technology, which will be discussed later in the article. However, if you are limited in time, consider inviting a semi-dry screed installation specialist. When choosing a contractor, pay attention to the technology used - the presence of a mechanized supply of the composition will ensure cleanliness in the apartment. For example, laying a semi-dry screed along latest technology is carried out by the company "EUROSTROY 21 CENTURY" (company website www.prestigehouse.ru).

Solutions for pouring concrete screed

It is quite natural that if you need to pour a concrete screed, you will first need to decide on the type of solution. There are some options in this matter.

According to the existing canons of SNiP, the minimum strength of a conventional concrete screed, regardless of the type of further cladding, must be at least M-150 (the coating can withstand a force of 150 kg/cm²). If used self-leveling jellied composition, then here the requirements are even higher - from M-200. The solution should be selected in accordance with these requirements.

1. The “classic” concrete mortar used for pouring a regular floor screed is considered to be a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3. This “recipe” is time-tested and fully justifies itself. However, there are several nuances, without taking into account which you can easily ruin the future screed:

• To prepare concrete, you cannot use ordinary “washed” river sand that has not undergone special treatment. The frozen surface will not be durable and will begin to crumble, crumble and crack over time. The fact is that grains of sand have smoothed outlines due to prolonged exposure to water, not providing adequate clutch. In this regard, quarry sand is much better than its faceted grains of irregular shape. True, when choosing, you need to look carefully so that it does not contain a large number of clay inclusions - this will also reduce the strength of the screed.

The presence of a small amount of fine gravel component will not affect the strength properties of the screed. However, if a smooth surface is required, it will be necessary to sift the sand through a sieve.

• A very important condition for the strength and durability of the screed being poured is the optimally selected amount of water. It is no secret that some novice home builders, in an effort to make the work of pouring and leveling concrete easier, use excessive amounts of water, getting semi-liquid, easy spreading solution. By doing this, they are laying a “time bomb” - at the end, the screed will not have the required qualities.

First of all, it's excessive liquid solution It will definitely shrink strongly during hardening. In this case, one cannot expect a flat surface in accordance with the set level. And secondly, a violation of the cement-water balance will certainly reduce the strength qualities of hardened concrete. The surface is loose, unbound, with increased dust formation.

There are, of course, specific amounts of water in concrete mortar, but they are usually followed by technologists at enterprises producing reinforced concrete structures and large mortar units. In home construction, they often rely on their own experience, intuition and common sense. In addition, it is very difficult to accurately calculate the amount of water due to the fact that it largely depends on the moisture content of the filler. The sand can be wet and heavy - and this is also water, which will participate in the process of preparing the solution.

Ideally, the concrete solution should be dense, but sufficiently plastic, so that when it is poured and leveled, there are no air voids left in the thickness of the floor. You can roughly focus on the following ratio - a liter of water per five kilograms of cement-sand dry mixture.

It is important to choose the right “golden mean” so that the solution is both dense and plastic

It is very difficult to mix the screed solution by hand using a shovel. It is better to use a concrete mixer or a construction mixer for this. high power. First, mix the dry ingredients in the required ratio (maybe with a little moisture), and then add water very carefully, portionwise.

An important condition for the quality of the future concrete screed is the purity of water. It is prohibited to use process water containing fats, oils, petroleum product residues, etc. Also, dirty, oily containers should not be used to carry water to the concrete mixing site.

2. The modern range of building materials on sale can significantly simplify the process of pouring screed. For these purposes, ready-made dry construction mixtures can be used.

Compared to using the usual cement-sand mixture, this technology has a number of advantages:

• In terms of strength and other performance indicators, screeds made from ready-mixes are in no way inferior ordinary concrete, and can even surpass it in a number of parameters.
• To prepare the solution, you do not need powerful equipment or heavy manual labor - a mixer or even a powerful electric drill (perforator) with an appropriate attachment is enough.
• In principle, there are no problems with the dosage of components - everything is already provided by the manufacturer, and the master can only strictly follow the instructions for preparing the solution.
• Many solutions prepared from such mixtures are much lighter, which reduces the load on the floor, reduces transportation costs and makes it easier to lift materials to floors.

• It is possible to select the desired composition for specific operating conditions. Thus, there are solutions for rough or leveling screeds, for underfloor heating systems and for rooms with high humidity. Special plasticizers or microfibers added to their composition not only increase the strength characteristics of the coating, but also reduce the time it takes for the screed to completely harden, reducing the overall duration of construction work.
• What is very important for beginners is that working with such compositions is simple and does not require particularly high skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations for pouring technology, which are necessarily attached to any batch of material.

All this will be true only if a high-quality dry mixture is purchased. Alas, there are a lot of fakes or low-quality mixtures on the building materials market in this segment. It is best to choose formulations from reputable manufacturers, be sure to check the certificate so as not to run into counterfeit products. It is also important to check the shelf life of the material - it is limited, and an expired mixture can significantly lose its quality.

The only drawback of this approach to pouring screed is that the price may be slightly higher than with self-production solution. Well, you have to pay for convenience and quality.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Preparing the surface for pouring concrete screed

The surface for pouring the screed is prepared in different ways, based on the conditions:

• If the floor will be laid on the ground, for example, in a private house without a fall or basement room, then the work is carried out in next sequence:

— The soil is selected to a depth of 500 mm.

A sand cushion 100 mm thick is poured and carefully compacted. A gravel layer is poured on top of it in the same way.

— Rough pouring of concrete with the addition of expanded clay is done to a height of 150 — 200 mm – for insulating the floor surface.

— After the base has hardened, it must waterproofed– roofing felt or dense plastic film to prevent the entry of ground moisture from below. Waterproofing material must definitely go out on the walls on height, slightly greater than the height of the planned screed. If necessary, another layer of insulation can be poured on top, and then a reinforced finishing screed can be poured.

• In apartments, first of all, it is necessary to remove the old screed. This is done for several reasons:

— Firstly, the old screed does not guarantee integrity, since it can peel off, crack, and these deformations will be transferred to the newly poured layer.

— Secondly, do not forget about the maximum permissible loads on floor slabs. So, in serial high-rise buildings old building permissible load about 400 kg per square meter - static and 150 kg - dynamic. And the news is one square meter concrete screed, 50 mm thick, approaches 100 kg. Therefore, all work related to thickening the screed will have to be coordinated with design organizations. And it is far from a fact that such permission will be obtained.

- And thirdly, the height of the ceilings in apartments is usually not so significant that you can afford to significantly raise the floor level.

The old screed is dismantled with a hammer drill, but very carefully to prevent destruction or damage to the floor slab. The remains of the chipped concrete are removed, and then the surface is thoroughly cleaned and dust-free.

• If a bonded screed is planned, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the existing recesses, cut cracks or crevices to a width of at least 5 mm so that the concrete solution can freely penetrate into them when pouring.
• If the screed is floating or on a separating layer, then all defects must be repaired immediately. You should not leave voids under the waterproofing layer - condensation can accumulate there, and these areas of high humidity are likely to become a “problem area”.

Defects are sealed using a repair compound, epoxy putty or ordinary concrete mortar. In case of large defects, polyurethane foam can sometimes be used.

The corners between the walls and the floor are especially carefully checked and repaired - water from the concrete solution when pouring the screed can penetrate deep into the ceiling or even leak to the neighbors below.

• Then, in any case, the surface of the ceiling should be treated with a penetrating primer. This measure will additionally remove dust from the surface of the slab and improve its adhesion to the concrete being poured. In addition, the ceiling will not actively absorb moisture from the solution. This is extremely important. A lack of water in the layer of wet concrete adjacent to the base will lead to incomplete maturation of the cement stone, and the screed will peel off or collapse under even minor loads.

The soil is poured over the surface in strips and distributed evenly with a roller. IN hard to reach places For example, in the corners, it is better to use a brush.

• An elastic damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the walls. It will become a compensator for the expansion of the concrete screed, which will prevent its deformation or cracking. In addition, under no circumstances should the screed come into contact with vertical structures, be they walls, partitions or columns.

• If the screed is on a separating layer, then first the entire surface of the ceiling is covered with a dense polyethylene film, at least 0.2 mm thick. The strips are overlapped by at least 100 mm. The joints must be taped with waterproof construction tape. You need to try to very carefully lay the film in the corners so that strong wrinkles and folds do not form - air “pockets” may remain there. The edges of the film on the walls should be 5 ÷ 10 mm higher than the planned screed - it will be easy to trim them later.

Schematic - waterproofing film and damper tape for screed on the separating layer

After the polyethylene is laid, the damper tape is glued - just as mentioned above.

Beacon system and reinforcement

To achieve horizontal screed and its required height, it is necessary to create a system of beacons along which the concrete mortar will be leveled.

Definition of zero level

It is very successful if the farm has it or if it is possible to take it from friends. In this case, the work will be significantly simplified - it will be much easier to cut horizontal stripes on the walls and control the level of alignment of the guides.

If this is not possible, then you can set up beacons just as well using water and conventional building level.

The water level consists of two cylindrical transparent vessels with the same scale applied, connected by a long elastic thin hose. According to the physical law of communicating vessels, the liquid level in them is always at the same height from the horizon. Thus, having made one mark at a certain level, it can be transferred with high accuracy to other surfaces within the length of the flexible hose.

Marking begins by determining the zero level of the future screed. To do this, first of all, you need to carry out a basic horizontal line. This is done as follows:

• The estimated highest corner of the room is visually determined. A mark is made on the wall in this corner at an arbitrary height. It is better, of course, to make it so that it is as convenient as possible to work, for example, one and a half meters from the floor.

• Using a water level, this mark is transferred to all walls of the room. The distance between the risks should allow you to connect them with a line using an existing ruler (you can use a long building level or a pure rule).
• The drawn line should run along the entire perimeter of the room and close at one point - this will indicate the correctness of the measurements.
• Measurements are taken from the applied baseline to the floor surface. Measurement points are usually every 0, 5 m. It is imperative to ensure that the measurement is carried out strictly vertically. The obtained values ​​​​need to be written down (on a piece of paper or even on the wall with a pencil).

The measurement point that gives the minimum height of this distance will correspond to the highest section of the base.

• The thickness of the future screed is subtracted from the obtained value at the highest point (minimum 30 mm). For example, minimum height– 1420 mm. We subtract the thickness of the screed (30 mm) and get 1390 mm. This is the distance from the drawn reference line to the zero level.
• Now it will not be difficult to draw the entire zero level line around the perimeter of the room - to do this, you need to measure the resulting value from the base down, mark the points and connect them with a straight line. To simplify your work, you can make a template and quickly move the marks from the base line. After connecting them, you get the main line of the zero level.
• In construction practice, it is rare, but it still happens, when in the center of the room the floor level is slightly higher than at the walls. This must be checked by pulling the cord at the zero level between opposite walls and measuring the height from it to the floor. A similar check should be carried out in several places. If it is determined that there is a hill in the center, it will be necessary to shift the zero level up to ensure a minimum permissible thickness screeds throughout the entire area of ​​the room.

Marking for beacon system

It is advisable to mark the beacons and guides immediately after hitting the zero level, guided by the following principles:

• The orientation of the guides should correspond to the intended direction of the most convenient pouring of the screed. This is usually done along the room, from the far wall to the exit.
• It happens that due to the complexity of the room configuration, it will be necessary to change the direction of pouring in a certain area. This should also be immediately taken into account when marking beacon lines.
• The distance between the wall and the parallel guide closest to it is usually maintained no more than 250 - 300 mm. If you leave it large, a poorly leveled area or even a failure may form along the wall, which will require additional intervention later.

• The distances between adjacent guides are not particularly regulated. The main thing is that the leveling rule installed on them protrudes on both sides by about 200 mm. The guides should not be spaced too far apart - quite large gaps may appear in the center between them after the hardening concrete shrinks.
• I distribute the guide lines across the width of the room, usually at the same distance from one another.

How to set beacons and zero level guides

Previously, various improvised materials were used as guides for the beacon system, for example, wooden blocks or unnecessary pipes. Today, metal profiles are mainly used for these purposes.

• Thus, galvanized U-shaped profiles from plasterboard systems. They are resistant to deflections and create a reliable “rail” for working as a rule.
• Plaster profiles are very popular, although they are not without some disadvantages. They have a stiffener, however, on long sections when working as a rule, they can still sag. Therefore, when using them, the number of support points must be increased.
• In some cases, you can do without using profiles altogether.

There are many ways to install a beacon, and it is impossible to consider everything. Let's look at just a few of them.

• One of the most accurate and simplest is using self-tapping screws.

— At the far end of the room, at a distance of 250 - 300 mm from the corner between opposite walls, a strong cord (for example, a fishing line or a thick nylon thread) is pulled strictly at the zero level. It is important to tighten it as much as possible so that there is no sagging in the center.

- At the intersection of the line of the extended cord with the line closest to the wall, directing in the floor is drilled a hole into which a plastic dowel is driven and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. Using a screwdriver, it is screwed in so that the upper edge of its cap exactly coincides with the zero level.

— A similar operation is repeated on the opposite side of the room, closest to the exit.

— Two self-tapping screws defining the guide line are connected to each other with a tightly stretched cord, so that it runs along the top of their heads.

— On this segment, mark and drill holes for dowels, distributing them evenly so that an interval of 350 ÷ 400 mm is maintained between them.

— Self-tapping screws are screwed into dowels until their heads coincide with the tensioned cord. A check must be carried out using a building level - if necessary, the required adjustments can be made.

— In the same way, a line of screws is made on the opposite guide, and then on the intermediate ones. In this case, the check must be carried out in all directions - longitudinal, transverse and diagonal.

— Once the same zero level has been reached along all lines, the stretched cords are removed. Prepare a thick concrete solution. It is laid out in small slides along the line of screwed-in screws. Then put on top U-shaped profile and pressed into the solution. The transverse flange of the profile should rest against the head of the screw. It is important that the profile “sits” evenly on both sides, without distortions.

Installation and fixation metal profiles— guides

— After the solution has set and securely fixed the profiles in the installed position, you can proceed to pouring the screed.

With plaster profiles it turns out to be somewhat more complicated - it is more difficult to fix them using the heads of the screws. For these purposes, special fastening elements can be used - “eared”, which are placed on self-tapping screws, and their petals are used to crimp the side flanges of the profile.

Video: placing beacons using screws and fasteners -“ Ushastiki»

Another subtlety is that plaster profiles also have their own height, and this must also be taken into account when setting the screws to the zero level.

In addition, much more solution for fixing is required - to the point that I even resort to laying out a solid shaft into which the profile is embedded with emphasis on the screw heads.

• Some craftsmen are accustomed to doing without metal profiles altogether.

— The exposed self-tapping beacons are tied with thin wire, thereby creating a kind of reinforcement frame. Then the solution is laid out along the entire line in a slightly excess quantity, so that the resulting shaft is slightly above the zero level.

— When the solution begins to set, a guide plane is formed. Using the rule, the upper edge of this shaft is compared and smoothed down to the screw heads.

- After hardening, you will get excellent guides along which you can work as a rule, and then they will enter the structure of the poured screed.

• If the screed is carried out on the floor, then the self-tapping method becomes inapplicable - the tightness of the film cannot be broken, and in addition, there should be no rigid adhesion of the new screed to the base. In this case, you will have to tinker more, laying out piles of mortar and accurately inserting the guides at the zero level along the stretched cords.

To speed up the readiness of the beacon system, tile adhesive is often used instead of conventional mortar - its hardening time is much shorter. But gypsum compositions are unacceptable. Firstly, they practically do not shrink, unlike cement ones. Secondly, gypsum compositions have completely different indicators of water absorption, adhesion, strength, ductility, etc. We can say with 100% certainty that cracks will appear on the screed where the beacons are located.

Nuances of screed reinforcement

Of course, this measure is useful, especially with thick ties. Most often used for this purpose is a metal mesh made of galvanized steel wire with cells from 50 to 100 mm - it can be purchased at finished form in shops. Only when placing it, many people make a serious mistake.

If you look at numerous photographs on the Internet, you can see a mesh laid directly on the floor slab or on a layer of waterproofing. There are many doubts about the usefulness of such reinforcement. Ideally, for the reinforcing belt to play its role, it should be placed in the thickness of the mortar being poured, approximately in the middle of the height of the screed.

To do this, you can purchase special polymer stands. However, it will not be difficult to make supports from wire or even to raise the mesh on linings from pieces of broken tiles or fragments of old concrete screed. Wooden pads should not be used under any circumstances.

Obviously, it is necessary to install the reinforcing grid before setting the guides. Most often, the installation of the beacon system and reinforcement is carried out in parallel, and the mesh can also be fixed on those piles of cement into which metal profiles are embedded.

Filling the screed

Oddly enough, the process of pouring the screed itself looks, in the series of all technological operations, probably the most uncomplicated. If all preparatory work done correctly, this stage will not present any difficulties.

• For normal pouring and hardening of the screed, the optimal temperature is from 15 to 25 degrees. It is allowed to carry out work even with more low temperatures(but not lower than +5), but the maturation period of concrete will increase significantly. In too hot weather It’s also better to refrain from pouring - = the top layer can quickly dry out and crack. Does not like screeds and drafts, although there is full access fresh air cannot be blocked.
• It is best, of course, to work together - one is preparing the concrete solution, and the second is directly pouring and leveling the screed. The technology for mixing the solution has already been described above.
• Work is carried out from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. You should try to complete the pouring within one working day - this way the screed will be as uniform and durable as possible. If for some reason this is not possible, then the floor surface is divided in advance into sections (they are called fill maps) with jumpers installed between them.
• spread in excess quantities between the guides, so that its layer is 15 - 20 mm above the zero level. Initial distribution is carried out using a trowel or shovel. It is imperative to ensure that there is no unfilled seats- this happens often under the guides, under the bars fittings or at corners. It is necessary to achieve maximum compaction of the concrete solution, leaving it air bubbles. To do this, you can carry out “bayoneting” - the solution is pierced with a shovel or trowel before leveling.
• Next, on on the rulers set the rule. Using forward and transverse zigzag movements, the solution is leveled to the level of the guides, so that a flat, smooth surface is obtained.

If the sand has not been sifted and large fragments (pebbles or shells) remain in it, then certain difficulties may arise - these inclusions can leave grooves and you will have to suffer a lot, removing them and smoothing out unevenness in order to bring the surface to an ideal state.

Concrete mortar is added as needed so that work continues uninterrupted. Excess mortar is carefully removed at the end of filling the room.

Video: a visual example of pouring screed along beacons

After the filling is completed, it is necessary provide measures, excluding accidental entry of people or pets into the premises during the first 5 - 7 days. In order for the maturation process to proceed effectively, the surface must be moistened with water daily (starting from the second day), keeping it moist. In extreme heat, it makes sense to cover it with film after initial setting to avoid drying out.

If a regular sand-cement mortar was used, then the readiness of the screed with the operational one can be said no earlier than after 3 weeks. When using dry building mixtures, the timing may be different - they must be indicated in the attached instructions.

After the screed is ready, it is checked for evenness and surface quality. To do this, set a rule on the embedded guides and measure the resulting gap in the center. There is no escape from shrinkage of concrete, and if the gap does not exceed 1 - 2 mm, then this will be within normal limits.

Often a thin layer of compound is poured over the screed to make the surface perfectly smooth. However, this is a topic for separate consideration.

Wooden floors are a timeless classic that, despite the advent of numerous new technologies and materials, remains popular today. To install wooden floors, the boards are laid on wooden blocks called “joists.” And the floor is also called: “floors on joists” or “on joists.” The essence does not change.

The concept of “logs” includes a wide range of lumber:

• log sawn in half;
• bars of rectangular cross-section, in which one side is at least 1.5 times longer than the other;
• one thick board or two spliced ​​or glued together;

Logs are wooden blocks, planed logs, spliced ​​boards

These are the materials that can be used in the manufacture wooden floor on the joists with your own hands. There are also metal and polymer ones, but they come complete with industrial systems and are not used in private housing construction.

If we talk about wood, then coniferous species are most often used for laying under the floor. They have low prices, and due to their significant resin content, they are less susceptible to rotting.

Any wood must undergo antibacterial treatment before installation. For baths, it is also desirable to treat them with fire retardants - compounds that reduce the flammability of wood. Whether you choose ready-made impregnations for processing or impregnate with hot wax or drying oil is not so important, but this stage cannot be skipped.

The logs can be laid on concrete, but only under them you need to spread waterproofing film

These bars rest on specially made structures - posts. This is if we are talking about a private house or bathhouse built on a columnar foundation. They are also laid directly on a concrete base. This is possible if:

• slab foundation;
• previously made as a base for a floor;
• the dimensions of the foundation allow for hanging logs;
• the floor is installed in apartments of multi-storey buildings.

What logs to use

You need to choose the size and number of bars based on the load and thickness of the floor boards. The cross-section of the logs and their thickness depend on the span length - the distance between two supports. The greater the distance between the supports, the more powerful the beam required. There are no such requirements for logs installed on a concrete base. Here, most often, the dimensions are selected based on the dimensions of the insulation, and the thickness of the board that will be laid on the floor.

The pitch for the logs (the distance between two adjacent bars) is selected from 30 cm to 100 cm. It depends on the thickness of the floor board. The correspondence is shown in the table. A step of 50 cm is considered optimal for baths. The thickness of the board is 25-30 mm.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation pitch of the logs

There are also some recommendations on the width of the floorboard - do not take it too wide for the bath - as the humidity increases, it will warp more, which can even create difficulties when moving. Medium width is the best choice for baths.

It is advisable to lay the logs in one piece, without joints. But if necessary, they can be spliced. To do this, either cut a tongue and groove into half a tree, or connect them end-to-end, securing them on at least two sides with pieces of boards at least 1 meter long.

Location rules

The first and last lags from the wall should be at a distance of no more than 20 cm. If, while observing the calculated step, the outermost lags are located further, their number is increased and the step is reduced.

They are placed either along the wall in which the door is located, or perpendicular to it. If one wall is much longer than the other, then it is along this long wall and place logs. If the room is square or similar in shape, then the location of the window may influence the choice: floorboards look best if they are located along the flow of light. That is, in this case, the logs are placed along the wall in which there is a window.

Floor installation using joists

A wooden floor can be with or without a subfloor. The type of floor device is determined by the level groundwater. If they are located closer than 2 m, an underground floor is required. In all other cases - optional.

If the groundwater is deep, you can make wooden floors on the ground. There is a very cheap option, but it is also the coldest: there is no insulation, so this option is either for seasonal houses (dachas and bathhouses) or for regions with a very warm climate. The only requirement is a high base.

Installing a floor using joists with a cold subfloor

If waters lie close to the surface, wooden structures must be raised. Then they arrange special bases-columns, on which the logs are already placed. In this case, additional moisture insulation measures are required.

Concrete floor joists

If there is already a concrete base - a floor slab, screed or slab foundation, it is easier to make a wooden floor. Installing joists on a concrete floor takes little time; exactly how long depends on the height difference and the required adjustments. The order of actions and layers is as follows:

For baths, the choice of material depends on the type of room. For a steam room with its high temperatures, it is advisable to choose heat insulators that are not afraid of high temperatures. But they should not be afraid of humidity.

On the other hand, in the floor area the temperature rarely rises above 30°C, and under the boards it will be even less, so the question of temperatures can be removed. Moisture resistance remains. Expanded polystyrene and expanded clay meet these conditions. You can also use mineral wool mats, but they are susceptible to dampness, so it is advisable to insulate them well. As an option, each mat is hermetically sealed in a thick film.

Sometimes, for convenience, additional jumpers are installed between the lags. Such a frame for laying floorboards requires more materials, but allows you to save on the floorboard: it can be used with less thickness, since the supports are located more often.

Eat quick option installation - installation of adjustable joists. Adjustable joists are wooden or plywood blocks with studs and an adjustment system (nuts) built into them. By rotating the nut in one direction or the other, you change the level of the joists relative to the floor. The studs themselves are embedded in the floor.

This is what adjustable joists look like

It takes 3-5 days to install such a floor, but its cost is about 15-20% more expensive than the usual version. But the boards, with a sufficient degree of moisture insulation, will last a long time: there is no direct contact with a humid environment and they will not be damaged. Among the disadvantages: they “eat up” extra centimeters of ceiling height. For some this is not critical, but for others it is very important.

Wooden floor on the ground

For private houses, cottages and bathhouses it is often necessary to make the cheapest flooring. And this is a floor on joists on the ground. Material costs are minimal here, but the floor turns out to be cold. So what is this or for summer houses, or for the southern regions. In other regions, space heating costs will be very high.

To install such a floor on the joists, the following work is carried out:

The installation of such a cold floor does not require much time. You also need a little money.

Insulated option

Warm floors on the ground require high costs but still he remains inexpensive option. Preparing the pit is exactly the same: removing the fertile layer and compacting the remaining clean soil. Here are the differences:

• The bottom and walls of the pit are lined with waterproofing materials.
• Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured in a layer of 8-10 cm, compacted well, and then poured with cement laitance. Drying and setting of the layer lasts at least a day, then work can be continued.

Cement laitance is cement diluted with water. Its consistency is more like liquid kefir. Most often, the proportions are as follows: take three or four parts of water to one part of cement. This operation serves to adhere the bedding. A fairly strong foundation is formed.

In order not to bother with setting the lag - a long and troublesome task - align it to the level. This is easier to do with the beacons installed.

Floor on poles

When installing a wooden floor on pillars, there is a subfloor. It may be insulated or not. The floor can also be cold or insulated in any of the options.

Floor posts

Floor posts are made of brick, small concrete blocks, or use the “FL” type. You can use bitumen-impregnated wooden blocks as posts. Some people place boulders of suitable size with a flat top on the base. Boulders are good support, but attaching logs to them is problematic.

Each column has its own foundation. The size of the base is 2-10 cm larger than the column. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of soil, but usually 10 cm is enough.

If groundwater is located close, the logs are raised. They make supports for them - brick pillars

There are two options for making bases for posts: make formwork for each separately, or fill it with a single tape. The first method is more economical in terms of material consumption, but the second takes less time: making one or two general formworks is faster than making many small ones.

The location of the supports is marked with a pencil on the foundation or on the lower crown (on the element to which the logs will be attached). Then the threads are stretched between the marks, and the formwork for the posts is already knocked down along them. There are other marking methods, but this one is the fastest and most accurate.

The dimensions of the formwork for the posts are 2-10 cm larger than the post itself, the height is 10 cm. Several bars of smooth reinforcement are laid inside, on the compacted soil, and they are filled with standard cement-sand mortar. Wait for the solution to set for at least 3 days, then you can lay out columns on the base.

When pouring, it is necessary to monitor the height of the foundations: it must be the same. In principle, it can then be corrected by adding a solution, but again you will have to wait 3 days. Therefore, try to immediately make them the same height.

Ruberoid is laid on the finished base, possibly in two layers. Then the columns are folded. It is recommended to put roofing felt on top of them, and then also a three-centimeter wooden board impregnated with antibacterial compounds. The logs will already be laid on it.

As you can see, it takes a long time to make floor posts. If you need to speed up the process, you can put ready-made concrete blocks or beams, or you can lay asbestos-cement pipes on a well-compacted bedding. Some people put up boulders or tarred logs. There is another option - drive pieces of metal or asbestos-cement pipes into the ground, stick several bars of reinforcement into them and fill them with concrete. There is probably more than one option, because our craftsmen are famous for their ingenuity.

This is what the finished joists look like

By the way, there is another option, but without support: hanging logs. Such arrangement of a wooden floor is possible in narrow rooms, which is not always the case (take the step of laying the joists a little more often than in versions with supports).

Hanging logs - a super fast option

Warm and cold underground

If the logs are raised above the ground, there is free space underneath them. There are two ways out. Leave the subfloor uninsulated or insulate it. Moreover, in each of the options it is still possible to insulate the floor structure or not, and it itself can be single or double. So there are a lot of options here.

An uninsulated subfloor can be made with a single or double plank floor. Some options are shown in the figure. Moreover, the insulated floor is only available in one version - at the bottom right.

Floor options for joists with subfloor

You can insulate the subfloor very simply: lay any non-hygroscopic insulation on a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt, film, etc.). Expanded clay is often used; among modern materials, slab foam propylene has performed very well; it behaves a little worse, but it costs less, so it is also used often. Sometimes the space is filled with foamed polyethylene - all the insulation takes several hours, but they do this only with special devices, so you either have to rent them or pay a specialist for the work.

When using any of these insulation to ventilate a wooden floor, it is necessary to leave a gap to the rough or finishing coating not less than 5 cm.

Warm and cold floor

Cold plank flooring with joists can be single or double. Warm - only double: the insulation needs to be laid on something. One of the options is shown in the photo.

A cranial block is attached to the joists on the sides below, and boards of the rough (skull) floor are laid on it. The bars should be thick enough to easily nail the decking. You can use an unedged board on the subfloor, but just be sure to remove the bark and soak it well with antiseptics: woodworm larvae often nest under the bark.

Next, waterproofing (membrane or film) is laid, and insulation is placed on top. Here you can use all the same materials as for insulating the underground, plus (if you are satisfied with their ecology). But in the case of laying mineral wool, they must also be covered with waterproofing on top - they really do not like water, and when wet they lose their properties. The entire cake should take up so much space that there is 5 cm left to the floor boards.

Ventilation of wooden floors on joists

It is also necessary to provide ventilation holes in the baseboards. According to standards, a room up to 15 m2 requires two vents, the total area of ​​which is at least 20-30 cm2. They are arranged in baseboards opposite walls, covering with metal decorative grilles.

To improve the draft and protect the subfloor from rodents getting into it, you can install a tin pipe in the vent, with an umbrella on top of it

For normal ventilation of the floor of the basement part of the foundation, ventilation ducts must be provided. To be able to somehow regulate the flow of air, you can make dampers. Can be withdrawn ventilation pipe beyond the foundation, raise it above the base, and make an umbrella on top of it so that precipitation does not fall into it.

One of the most important structural components of any building is the floor system - not the finishing touch. decorative coating, but the whole “pie” consisting of several layers. There are several types of floors, differing in raw materials, manufacturing method and characteristics. Anyone who encounters a construction site or major reconstruction, makes a choice in favor of one of the systems based on its capabilities, preferences and building parameters. Conveniently, some designs involve the simultaneous creation of an underfloor heating circuit - single or additional. Let's consider the main floor systems in demand among users of the FORUMHOUSE portal:

• how to make floors;
• how to make floors using joists;
• how to make floors on floor slabs.

Floors on the ground

Monolithic ceiling – multi-layer construction, installed directly on the ground inside the perimeter of the foundation, a type of concrete screed.

The system consists of the following layers:

Compacted soil– it needs to be leveled. Depending on the level, the soil is added or extra centimeters are removed. The more thoroughly the surface is compacted and leveled, the stronger and more reliable the screed will be.

Bedding– sand is most often used. If, due to the height of the “pie”, a thick layer is required, it is recommended to backfill in several approaches with tamping each layer (10-15 cm). In order to level and compact the soil and bedding as much as possible, a layer of coarse crushed stone is poured and compacted on top of the sand. It is also possible to use instead separate layers sand and crushed stone of the general layer of ASG, compaction is required regardless of the type of backfill. Vibrating plate, in several approaches with changing the direction of movements, - best friend floors on the ground.

Rough screed– a layer of concrete several centimeters without reinforcement. It is relevant for strong pressures of groundwater and when creating in-depth structures - in basements, ground floors. Fused over the screed bitumen waterproofing, sealing surface and requiring a flat, rigid base. If we are talking about ordinary floors on the ground and there are no problems with waterlogging, they can do without installing this layer.

Waterproofing– cuts off moisture that will come from below; various materials are used, but in most cases it is a thick film (from 150 microns), overlapped with a margin (15-20 cm), in one or two layers. The joints are taped with tape for tightness, and 20 cm of film is placed on the walls.

Insulation– to insulate the ceiling, slab materials (PSB-25 or EPPS, with a thickness of 100 mm or more) are used, laid end-to-end on top of the waterproofing. When using extruded polystyrene foam, another layer of film is needed on top to prevent direct contact with the cement mortar. Polystyrene foam is not afraid of such a neighborhood.

Screed– the thickness of the concrete layer and the brand of mortar used are calculated based on the expected loads, on average it is 50 mm. The screed is reinforced metal mesh thickness from 4 mm. The thicker the screed layer and the greater the expected loads, the thicker the mesh should be. To ensure that the concrete layer protecting the filling from external influences is uniform, special plastic coasters or improvised devices. To maintain the filling level, beacons are used, installed at an equal distance.

With a standard pie, there are two ways to create a floor on the ground - with the combination of the slab and the foundation (rigid ligament) and through a damper tape (floating screed), more details about the damper tape can be found in the material. In the first case, the design is dependent on the possible shrinkage of the foundation, in the second The screed lives its own life and is not subject to deformation.

The advantages of floors on the ground include their energy efficiency - they accumulate heat, versatility - they are suitable for various types soil, durability - you can forget about a properly made screed long years. Also attractive for owners of private houses is the opportunity to immediately pour an underfloor heating circuit into the screed - water or electric. Plus, for most finishing materials the resulting slab will be the optimal base with minimal finishing or no finishing at all, if you try and maintain the level. For a concrete base - the best option.

But it was not without its drawbacks - the process is very labor-intensive (one of the forum users caused disc protrusion without calculating his own strength), and the inability to install communications in the ground, and the rise in cost per square meter with large volumes of backfill. This is one of the most popular types of flooring, mastered by portal participants.

Staryjdub FORUMHOUSE Member

• Region of residence - Stary Oskol, Belgorod region;
• Foundation type - TISe;
• Type of walls and number of floors - walls made of gas silicate with mortar, plastered on the inside, not yet insulated on the outside - thickness 300 mm;
• Construction of the floor on the ground (layer-by-layer) - soil, sand, polyethylene, roofing felt, concrete, EPS (2 layers of 25 mm each), heated floor: 50 mm screed with polypropylene fiber, 10 mm finishing screed, special substrate for TP, finishing - laminate 8 mm.

The screed is floating, we have been living with this floor for several years, no problems or disadvantages have been noticed, everything is fine.

Another FORUMHOUSE user chose ground floors as the best option for heat conservation.

chicken-A Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow

House with total area 135 m², in use all year round in the mode of temporary residence - a couple of weeks in it and the same amount in the city. Partly thanks to the floors on the ground, which do not break the thermal contact of the internal volume of the house with a huge earthen heat accumulator, I spend very little on heating. True, other methods used to save on heating also help me here.

And this craftsman built a concrete foundation that has served faithfully for two decades.

motiv FORUMHOUSE Member

• Samara Region;
• A mixture of strip and pile foundations (non-hanging grillage);
• The house is one and a half floors, well masonry with expanded clay inside, two bricks thick;
• The house is about twenty years old;
• The ground floor is simply there, and I don’t remember any problems with it. You can defer the construction of the floor to a later stage in construction.

​Floors on joists

Beam floor, as opposed to a monolithic concrete slab. When creating floors using joists, the base is a “lattice” of longitudinal elements - wooden, metal or reinforced concrete beams.

In one-story and frame private housing construction, they are more in demand wooden beams or logs - they can withstand heavy loads, their installation does not require much time or wet processes. The required thickness of the beam is calculated based on the expected loads, the optimal indicator is 1/24 of the length. Wood goes to the beams coniferous species, as it is more resistant to external influences, humidity should not exceed 14%. Before use, it must be treated with special antiseptic compounds to prevent decay and damage by pests and microorganisms.

Depending on the type of foundation, beams are installed in special grooves (left during pouring or laying, cut into wooden bases) or laid on top. If the beams are in contact with metal, concrete or brick, you need to make additional waterproofing at the joints (resin, roofing felt, film).

A typical beam floor pie consists of the following layers:

Floor beams– the step between the elements depends on the expected loads and span length, on average – 1 m.

Logs (sheathing)- a wooden beam laid perpendicular to the beams; the greater the distance between the beams, the stronger the logs should be. To maintain the level with curved beams, use wooden spacers, the distance from the wall to the joist is 20 cm. When calculating the step, this nuance is taken into account. When the distance between the beams is less than 80 cm, you can immediately install the subfloor, without logs.

Subfloor– necessary for laying insulation, laid between joists or between beams, with a small pitch. Skull bars (beams with a smaller cross-section) are used as fasteners, attached to beams or joists. Laying boards onto bars is done without the use of fasteners; the boards are placed closely, but lie freely.

Moisture protection– protects the insulation from absorbing moisture from the subfloor, but should not retain steam, so ordinary film is not suitable. You can refuse waterproofing if the subfloor is dry and the groundwater level is low.

Insulation– slab or roll materials are most often used: stone wool, PSB, EPPS or backfill materials such as ecowool.

Vapor barrier– this can be a special membrane or ordinary polyethylene film.

Ventilation gap– when designing the ceiling, it is recommended to choose logs that will be slightly higher than the insulation layer - this automatically leaves a gap for ventilation. If this was not done, then after laying the insulation, a beam is filled, which will give the required distance.

Whether to lay another layer of subfloor after insulation depends on the future finishing coating - plank or slab varieties are self-supporting; for linoleum and carpet you will have to spend money on a base layer.

To the advantages of such floor system refers to the speed of construction, reduced load on the foundation, absence of heavy physical activity during manufacturing (no need to drag tons of sand and crushed stone, pour cubic meters of concrete).

Among the disadvantages are the need for effective ventilation of the underground, a lower load limit, the fire hazard of wood and less durability compared to concrete. To make a floor water heating, will need to be spent additional funds on the screed or use alternative systems, etc. But this type of flooring is chosen by many developers, including portal participants, modifying the standard pie to suit their parameters.

kolyaseg FORUMHOUSE Member

I hemmed an inch board with a width of 15 cm from the bottom at intervals of 7-8 cm, on top of the resulting lattice I placed fiberglass mesh for facade plaster and insulation on it - three overlapping mats, it turned out to be 15 cm. log board 100x50 mm, spaced 24 cm. The boards are already OSB-12 or 15.

Fiberglass mesh colyaseg replaced the waterproofing film, considering that it would more reliably protect the insulation from destruction, taking into account the gaps in the subfloor.

Mishgun21 Member FORUMHOUSE

Log bathhouse/house made of logs 23 cm, 6x6 meters (with an attic floor), the distance between the logs is different - from 1 m to 1.5 meters. The logs are made of logs, the frame stands on screw piles. The floor pie is like this:

• Forty block;
• There is a subfloor on it;
• Waterproofing and windproofing membrane on top, smooth side towards subfloor(so that moisture does not pass into the insulation), rough - to the insulation so that moisture comes out of it;
• Insulation - 150 mm basalt wool, I will build up the beams with a fifty-fifty block;
• I cover everything with a vapor barrier;
• Counter grille to create a ventilation gap (bar 50x25 mm);
• Batten.

Installation of floors on floor slabs

Like floors on the ground - a beamless floor, with the difference that the reinforced concrete slab is not poured on site, but is purchased ready-made.

Floor slabs are a popular option for houses with a full basement or basement, when the slab is also the ceiling of the lower level. Unlike floors on the ground and floors on joists, it is necessary to use construction equipment, since it is impossible to lay even the lightest slab by hand. But in terms of speed, slab flooring devices outperform all other options.

Floor slabs are made industrially in two categories - single-layer solid and multi-hollow. The former are a reinforced monolith, the latter have through round holes (channels) into which it is convenient to hide communications. In private construction, hollow-core slabs are mainly used. Their thickness is 220 mm, they are lighter than solid ones, have reduced thermal conductivity and better insulate sound. At standard thickness slabs are able to withstand different loads, depending on the grade of concrete and the parameters of the reinforcement frame. Length varies from 2.4 meters to 6.8 meters, width - from 1.2 to 1.5 meters, weight - from 0.9 to 2.5 tons.

Floor on floor slabs in a private house.

How to make a floor in a private house using floor slabs

The work of laying slabs is carried out in several stages:

Preparing the base– the foundation for the slabs must be perfectly level. If during pouring there are minor differences (up to 5 cm), they are leveled with a cement-sand screed. In areas with a slope, pouring a concrete armored belt or brickwork may be required.

Preparation of slabs– before laying, the channels at the ends are sealed with insulation (pushed inside) and cement mortar (covered).

Leaning– how much the slab should rest on the base depends on its type: the overlap on brickwork is from 125 mm, on concrete – from 60 mm, the long side of the slab does not rest on the foundation. If the slabs laid next to each other have lugs, they are tied together (welded with reinforcement); if the slabs are without lugs, after removing the jig (laying device), they are moved close together. At the points of contact between the slab and the base, a layer of cement mortar (M100) - 2 cm is laid; a reinforcing rod (10-12 mm thick) laid in the center of the seam will help prevent extrusion. Installation on a dry base is also possible, but this is not the case when it makes sense to save money. If the slab is both the base of the floor and the ceiling of the lower room, it is laid with the smooth part down to simplify later finishing.

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