On the Stankoff.RU website you can buy mounted cutters for the production of “Block House” cladding boards from leading manufacturers. In stock and on order, more than 9 models of cutters for blockhouses according to best prices. Only profitable offer With detailed descriptions and photo. Check prices with managers.
Characteristics of cutters for block house
The advantages of a wooden block house allow finishing material far ahead of the popularity of plastic and metal elements finishing. Smooth surface boards with an expressive wood texture are obtained thanks to professional use modern milling tools. Special cutters for block houses, presented in our catalog, make it possible to perform a full cycle of operations for processing and profiling workpieces, the result of which are products with high decorative characteristics and extremely precise geometric parameters.
For the manufacture of block houses it is usually used edged board, obtained from wood with a medium degree of hardness. After sawing the rounded log and polishing the resulting blanks, grooves and tenons are formed on the longitudinal ends. Grooves of shallow depth are cut out on the back of the blanks, intended for ventilation of future cladding. Operations are performed on universal milling equipment and four-sided machines using block house cutters offered by our company.
The average width of processed workpieces ranges from 20 to 45 cm, and the length varies up to 6 m. In the manufacture of boards acceptable values deviations are considered to be no more than 3 mm in the longitudinal part and 0.5 mm in the transverse dimension. Depending on the nature of the work and technological features machine, it is possible to buy cutters for a block house that have the following design:
- one-piece, which does not allow adjustment of the carbide blades when forming the tongue and groove;
- composite, having a larger layer of soldering of sharpened knives and capable of being adjusted when changing the operating mode or wearing out the steel plates during operation.
The basic set of equipment for creating an imitation of a rounded log includes a radius tool for processing the upper part of the board and side cutters for creating a locking profile. Additionally, the set is equipped with a device for forming ventilation grooves on the back side of the workpiece. When choosing consumables, you should determine the compatibility of the outer and bore diameters with the shaft size and working width of the equipment.
In the previous thread, many comments were made that the process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. I decided to take the path of reducing the cost of the material and maximizing mechanization. For this purpose I purchased additional manual frezer and adapted table saw. Instead of boards of the 4th category, I bought 7.5 cubes of larch of the "firewood" category, a cube of 1 tr, the cost of 1 board is 50 rubles (in the store - 450 rubles) - 3 cubes and 4.5 cubes - firewood - free. Larch has a hard structure, so it is easier to process it raw (personal opinion), but since the Russians saw blades They don’t like raw wood, so they have to replace it with “makita”, the price is 5 times higher - but there is no difference between processing raw and dry wood. By time (specially timed) 10 boards 3 meters - 4 hours (slowly, with smoke breaks). It turned out to be the slowest to process the first side of the “slab”: you apply a ruler, draw a line, cut along the line, the cut is not quite even, so you have to go through it several more times to level it out, then there are no difficulties, milling (tenon and groove) is fast, then the saw is set on the machine at 45 degrees, the “edge” is cut off on both sides, and then the height of the board is set and the excess is cut off from the “slab”. After which the workpieces are folded to dry. After drying with a plane (adjusting the depth of cut) from 1.5 to 0.5, a rough profile is given and grinder unevenness from the plane is removed; instead of a plane, you can use an angle grinder with a flat flap sanding disc. I'm happy with this option. The idea is that when minimum costs get maximum results.
If anyone is interested in this option and has questions, I will try to answer.
The photo shows the process of processing 2 boards, for clarity.
if you have free time and the desire to do something useful, then try to make it yourself facing material. To do this, you need cutters for lining on a special manual router. Believe me, create with your own hands wooden panels– the activity is very interesting and exciting!
Finger cutters.
Milling cutters
Huge range of cutters for hand routers
Classification of hand cutters for wood:
- Bearing (edge) - needed for the production of lining.
- Bearingless - used for one-time processing of a specific part. Requires auxiliary equipment.
Types of groove fillet cutters
Cutters for the production of lining for a special manual router have a standard shank diameter of 8 mm and the following ratios of diameter (D) and radius (R):
- 9.5 and 4.8 millimeters;
- 12.7 and 6.35 millimeters;
- 15.8 and 7.9 millimeters.
Such cutters can be used to make lining, but it is inconvenient.
Use universal cutters for the production of lining.
Universal cutters for creating lining can also be used with manual machine, and with a milling machine, which is usually equipped with collets. The diameter of the cutters is 35 and 50 mm.
Mounted cutters are very convenient for making lining.
Mounted cutters allow you to produce lining with different types tongue and groove The most important condition is correct setting machine and selection of cutter sizes by diameter and depth.
Stages of lining production
Carefully align one side of the board
- We prepare smooth jointed blanks from simple unedged boards, making a cut along one of the sides and determining the width of the future panel.
Set the ruler to the required width
When determining the width of the lining, focus on all existing boards, because they should turn out the same. Optimal width boards – 7-10 cm.
Application of planed boards
Be very careful when jointing the boards, count the number of passes along the cutter so that the thickness of the boards is approximately the same.
Lining with grooves, connected on both sides by a thin strip
Do not throw away the wood left after cutting down the wane. From the resulting waste, make thin slats for connection.
The process of cutting a groove with a milling cutter
After the boards are cut and jointed, it's time to make tenons and grooves, i.e. tongue and groove it around the entire perimeter. Place the cutter on the machine and adjust the groove depth by raising or lowering the table until the desired state. Carefully move the ruler to the desired distance, and press the board tightly against the edge while processing.
The process of processing boards on a surface planer
In order to create a lining manually, you will need a calibrated board, previously passed through a surface planer.
Operation of a manual surface planer
Make the ridge with an end mill, the width of which must be adjusted with washers - the thickness should be at least 4 mm and no more than 6 mm. Using a panel cutter, carefully remove the remainder from the top, so that the straight section is at least 5 mm. You do the other side of the lining in the same way, but the chamfer is removed using a panel cutter to a smaller size.
It is easier to install a log house made of profiled timber from a ready-made kit with sawn cups. The cups are cut according to the design of the house or bathhouse. You can find ready-made kits on sale or order bowls to be filed from specialists for your project. You can cut out the cups yourself, but their design will be simple. Used for slicing special tool- “cup cutter.” The better profiled timber with cups from the manufacturer, design various types sawing and features of making it yourself in one article.
Based on their shape, cups on a beam are divided into simple ones, which can be made with your own hands, and complex ones with a special labyrinth. Complex ones can be made using a cup cutter, as they have a lock to save heat. The thermal lock makes the connection as airtight as possible and the joints of the timber not only look aesthetically pleasing, but are also inaccessible to the penetration of wind and cold. According to the shape of the connection between the profiled timber and the cups, the connections are divided into:
- In the “region”.
- In the “cup”.
- "Dovetail".
The first two compounds are with the remainder, the third is without. Connecting the corners of the house with the remainder has a number of advantages:
- The corners are warmer.
- Aesthetics of the facade.
The disadvantages include:
- Material consumption increases.
- Difficult to accomplish additional insulation corner connections.
Beams with sawn cups are suitable for joining with the rest - “in the oblo”. This is precisely what our readers are encouraged to consider.
What are the pros and cons of a warm corner?
The connection of the corners of a house made of profiled timber with the remainder is called a “warm corner”. It was formed due to the locking connection, which reliably protects the corners from freezing. Cupping is not always the most effective. Since the profiled material natural humidity It shrinks a lot and dries out; a void appears between the beams, which cannot be further caulked. You can avoid problems by using profiled material chamber drying or glued. It is important to know a number of features before choosing hand-cut or factory-made cups:
- Bowls filed on machines can only have specific sizes, since the settings are not limitless.
- The manual filing method cannot be ideal, since there is always an error during operation.
- An experienced craftsman can make bowls no worse than any factory ones.
- When sawing at factories, you still have to adjust the corner joints, since the timber can dry out or, on the contrary, gain moisture.
- Factory cutting is carried out with a margin of 1-1.5 cm; during manual cutting, you can adjust and fold the beam hermetically (in tension).
The main difference between mechanical cutting and manual cutting is the complexity of the thermal lock. It is almost impossible to do a complex one manually. But the factory one is also not always of high quality and ideal. The cut of the cup depends on the quality of the machine and the cup cutter. You can even use a cup cutter on a construction site, since the machines come in massive stationary and small mobile ones. The choice of machine and attachment determines the shape of the cup, the depth and angle of the cut. Corner cutting is necessary for easier installation of the corner.
How does a cup cutter work?
To cut bowls using a stationary method, powerful electric milling machines are used: Intercom FM-62/220E, AEG 2050, Makita 3612C, Felisatti RF62/2200VE and others. Plates with cutters for cutting are located in the design of the machine. The edge of the cutters is sharp and the cut occurs when rotating. When rotating, the cutters receive a large load, so the plates are inclined to reduce it. The plates can be removed and put back in place, secured with a special screw. Cutters for cutting bowls are mounted on a special frame that is movable and adjusts the length and width of the bowl.
By rising and falling the cutter makes it possible to drill the required depth. The complexity of the lock depends on the machine model and the installed cutter. Milling machine The mobile is installed directly on the profiled beam in the place where the bowl was drunk and secured with cleats. During operation, the frame moves across the beam, which makes it possible to work with timber of any cross-section. In this case, the groove is obtained of the required dimensions according to the given diagram. The main thing is not only to install the cup saw correctly, but also to calculate the location of the cut. You can see more details on how to use a cup cutter in the video:
Where is the bowl washed down on a beam?
Corner connections in different sections of timber are made differently. It is necessary to calculate the location of the cup so that the material does not become brittle and crack when laying the walls of the house in the corners. The cut can be calculated using the standard formula: H = (B + c): 4 (H is the thickness of the groove of the profiled material, B is the height of the selected beam, c is the height of the existing groove or tenon in the profile. For example, take a profiled beam with a simple locking connection of 10 mm, section 200x200 mm. Insert the values into the formula: (200+10): 4 = 52.5 mm. This will be the size of the cutting depth. The cup is cut on a profiled beam using a cup cutter according to the following scheme:
- The middle of the cut is marked and an incision is made along the borders to a depth of 10 - 20 mm.
- The cutter is lowered onto the cut grooves and work begins to the previously calculated depth.
Judging by customer reviews, ready-made factory cups do not always fit in size when assembled and they still have to be modified. To simplify the work, you can buy a manual cup cutter. The price of the machine starts from 35,000 rubles, but by purchasing timber without cups you can save money. Use a manual cup cutter directly while assembling a house or bathhouse from profiled timber. The saw can be measured on the spot and adjusted to the desired shape.
In this case, the connection in the warm corner is more airtight. If the production of profiled timber is small, then purchase one hand tool it will be more profitable. Moreover, the work can be performed to the same quality as on a powerful milling machine. Depending on the type of frieze chosen, you can make different cuts for the cup. The number of cutters depends on the brand of cup cutter and its power. The more fezes included in the package and the higher the power of the equipment, the higher the price of the cup cutter.
Types of cutters and corner joints they make
The chosen cutter shape produces different results. gusset profiled timber:
- Four-sided bowl. The connection is made on a profiled beam with one rounded side - block house or with flat ones. Reminiscent of a four-way joint in a corner laying logs with the remainder. Used to make a cylindrical connection end mill. The side parts of the bowl are obtained according to a template, which is secured to the material with cleats. The cuts are straight at the top and bottom. The timber fits evenly into each other.
- T-bowl. This angle is called “ dovetail" The cutter has a special shape with a notch. Machines on which similar cutters are included: Brussivit, Euroblock, Craze, Blook. The bowl is made in two steps; more details can be seen in the photo.
Price for drank cups
The price for sawing bowls in a profiled beam depends on the complexity of the structure, the cross-section and type of timber, and the complexity of the house structure. You can buy profiled timber with cups ready-made kit in any major construction company, which produces the material. IN major cities the price differs little, we calculated the average and present it in the form of a table:
You should not expect that by ordering bowl cutting from a construction company you will get impeccable material. The human factor has not been canceled. The only thing worth paying extra for is complex shape bowls for a warmer corner joint.
Everyone spends their leisure time in their own way, but it is best to do it usefully. We suggest you make your own material for finishing your house or apartment. To do this, first of all, you will need cutters for lining on a manual router. Imagine how convenient it is to make materials for repairs at home, you will agree that it is not only exciting, but also useful.
We make lining at home
Milling cutters for a manual router for making lining - a set for professional use
- Milling cutters manual type are divided into:
- edging,
- bearing,
- bearingless.
In order to make wood panels yourself, you will need bearing cutters, other types of tools require additional equipment, which means they are not suitable for us;
- Mills for making lining for a manual router come in a wide variety. Before you start work, you need to decide what tools you will need to make wood panels. Don't forget also that some cutting tools can only be used for self made, but undesirable due to inconvenience;
Note! The lining cutter shown in the photo above is universal due to the fact that it is convenient to use both on a machine and in a manual machine. milling type. The diameter of such parts can range from 35 to 59 millimeters, depending on the length of the shank.
- The cutter for making lining, which is shown in the photo, will help you with any tongue and groove. It is important to set up the machine correctly, namely to select a cutter by diameter and depth.
Self-manufacturing process
- - the task is not easy, but this does not mean at all that you cannot do it. The main thing in this matter is attentiveness and compliance with safety precautions;
- First, make jointed blanks so that they are even. Immediately make a cut on one side of the uncut board, and then proceed to determine the width of the panel;
- Before you finally decide on the width of the panel, you need to look at the width of all your boards so that in the end they all turn out the same. detailed instructions will help you complete everything consistently and without errors, the main thing is to be careful;
- When jointing material, you should be extremely careful, because it is in the process of jointing boards that even professionals get injured. In order for the resulting material to be identical in thickness, it is necessary to count the phase passes, that is, their number.
Important! In order for the process of processing boards to be simple and straightforward, without problems, it is necessary to take material whose length does not exceed two meters. Such boards are convenient to work with and easy to process. If the boards are very short, then their processing is easier if this process is carried out with a manual router.
Remember! When you cut down a wane, there is often quite a lot of material left behind that should not be thrown away. From this waste it will be possible to make small connecting strips.
The photo shows the process of cutting a groove - In the case when the board has already been processed, you only need to make a tenon and, of course, a groove. We install the table so that it is convenient for you to work on it and tongue and groove the board. Do not forget that it is constantly necessary to adjust the depth of the groove and the workpiece must always be pressed tightly to the table;
- You probably understand how to make lining with a hand router, but you will still need to talk about the details and nuances of this matter, because each business has its own characteristics that you need to know. Remember that if you need a calibrated board, to make it you will need a surface planer, manual machine this will not work;
- When working with a hand router you need to be extremely careful. Because this device is considered dangerous. Sometimes even experts in their field make mistakes and get injured, so beginners need to always be on their guard. Do not forget about safety precautions, and also monitor the thickness of the product so that your material is even;
- Even a beginner can make lining with a hand router, if he or she becomes familiar with all the rules for working with this device before starting work. Don't forget that