Do-it-yourself plasterboard works. Works with drywall

2015-05-28, 00:28

Working with a profile for plasterboard Design of gypsum boards How to cut plasterboard How to attach plasterboard to a profile

Hello dear homemade people.

Let's look at the nuances that await you when working with drywall, knowing which you can significantly reduce the repair budget.

Working with drywall profiles

To work with the profile you will need the following tool:

1. Metal scissors.

2. Pliers.

3. Metal square.

5. Roulette.

The first pitfalls appear when cutting the profile.

Although there are guide notches in the form of dots on its plane, it is better to make precise markings of the cut.

To mark, it is better to use a metal square and a scratch. The pencil is not noticeable on the metal profile, and the scratch is visible better and will not be erased accidentally.

After cutting, the following bends remain on the profile:

It seems like a small thing, 2-3 mm. but later, when assembling the structure, this little thing will move the plane away, because the ceiling profile is inserted into the bypass profile, and such bends will expand the latter.

I have often heard that they say the plasterboard will tighten up. No, it won’t wait. Or it will wait, but not everything. So it's better to take pliers and straighten out these bends.

The same applies to partition profiles. If you want less putty to be used for subsequent finishing, then don’t be lazy and trim the unnecessary protrusions formed when cutting the profile.

A couple of times I came across lightweight profiles. Their price is lower, but the metal is thinner.

Under no circumstances should you be fooled by the price of such a profile. The thin metal does not properly hold the self-tapping screw, which then cannot be used to properly tighten the drywall.

As a result, while you save on the price of the profile, you will lose on putty consumption.

GCR design.

If you have never assembled a plasterboard structure yourself, then it is best to contact the creator of this technology, the Knauf company, for information. Follow the link to find technical advice on installing the structure.

I will point out some little things not shown there that can significantly lighten your wallet, and knowing which, you can avoid this relief.

Let's start by attaching the profiles to each other with self-tapping screws. A seed is a small self-tapping screw intended only for connecting profiles.

It is better not to use seeds on a plane to which a sheet of drywall will then be attached. Or do it with one condition, which is discussed below.

Here is an example of a plane that is covered with plasterboard:

And here is the seed that holds the ceiling and bypass profiles together:

Now we attach the sheet to this plane (I really didn’t spoil the sheet and attached the strip just to show you):

Let’s substitute a ruler for clarity:

This is how the plane turned out to be “flat”. And they do this all the time!

Such masters have a life-affirming thought firmly in their heads: “It’s okay, it’ll be smoothed out with putty.”

Of course it will even out. The putty man will swear and level it, and your loot, with a joyful cry of “Hurray, freedom,” will fly away from your stuffy and dark wallet. It doesn’t matter that he won’t be free for long. This will probably be of little comfort to you.

For reference.

If the package of putty is 25 kg. costs on average 350 rubles, and its consumption, with a layer thickness of one millimeter, is approximately 1.5 kg. per square meter, then every extra millimeter of layer costs about 20 rubles per square meter.

The thickness of the seed cap is 2.5 mm.

It turns out that there are several millimeters, but square meters A few dozens. This is the price of unaligned ends when cutting a profile, and improper fastening of profiles to each other.

It happens when there is no other choice but to put a seed on the front part. In this case, we apply the sheet going to this place and press it lightly, so as not to break it, but so that the screw head leaves a dent on the drywall, and in this place we make a recess.

Now we attach this sheet, without fear of bending the plane.

The next point is the use of direct hangers, extensions, clips, and crabs.

There are no nuances in using direct suspension.

Extensions and clips should not be fixed to the profile with seeds, as the self-tapping screw will “lead” the profile a little, and it will only get worse.

But crabs are a controversial thing. They are conceived correctly - the crab creates a rigid crosshair, which in theory should set a flat plane for the structure.

In practice, it turns out differently. Firstly, 8 seeds provided for installing a crab are clearly too much.

As I said above, each seed slightly changes the profile. To prevent this from happening, you need to hit the tip of the seed exactly in the center of the mounting hole, holding the screwdriver perpendicular to the profile plane, which is almost impossible, especially when installing a ceiling.

Therefore, it is better to make the crosshair in a different way. No crabs. In addition, this method is easier, since it requires 4 seeds, instead of 8, and is cheaper, since crab is a relatively expensive thing.

We cut the end of the profile as follows, bend the side planes, and attach it to the transverse one.

To cut drywall you will need a knife and a ruler.

You can buy a special knife for drywall, but a simple wallpaper knife is also suitable, and a profile is usually used as a ruler.

The process is as follows: a layer of cardboard is cut along a ruler, then the sheet is broken, and a second layer of cardboard is cut through.

The nuances in this matter are as follows:

1. Drywall should be cut on a flat and relatively clean surface. Lumps and debris trapped under the sheet can break the drywall.

2. You need to cut through the cardboard with pressure. The deeper the cut, the smoother the break will be.

3. Since the knife is driven with pressure, at the end of the cut it jumps off the sheet, and so that at this moment the tip of the blade is not damaged, something needs to be placed at the end of the sheet (a piece of plasterboard, plywood, etc.).

4. Immediately after cutting, be sure to chamfer the end of the sheet that is joined to another sheet.

5. For cutting out a segment, a hacksaw blade for metal is suitable.

6. If you need to cut a thin strip, or trim a sheet by a centimeter - one and a half, it is better to cut through the cardboard on both sides, and then break the strip.

How to attach drywall to a profile

1. The self-tapping screw securing the gypsum board sheet to the frame is screwed in perpendicular to the plane. Running obliquely, it can break through the top layer of cardboard with one edge of the cap, while the opposite one will remain sticking out above the plane.

2. Under no circumstances should the screw head break through the top layer of cardboard and sink into the plaster, as this means that the fastening in this place is weak. Upper layer The cardboard is torn, the plaster underneath is destroyed, leaving only one bottom layer of cardboard.

3. The head of the self-tapping screw should not protrude above the plane of the sheet, as this will turn the putter’s work into hell, because the spatula will constantly bump into this self-tapping screw.

4. The cut ends of the sheet must be cut at an angle to the inner plane. Otherwise, the probability of a crack appearing at the joint will approach 100%.

5. Do not screw in self-tapping screws where one profile overlaps another. These are corners, crosshairs and entry points into the bypass profile.

The figure shows in red the places where you cannot screw in a self-tapping screw.

6. The seeds are screwed in at the second speed of the screwdriver, the screws securing the sheet are at the first

You can read about how to use scraps of drywall and profiles in the article

I wish you success in working with drywall

7 comments

Thank you very much for a really useful article. The interior decoration of the house is just around the corner, we will do it ourselves. Do you plan material on exterior decoration, in particularly siding?

I create material in the process of this or that work, since the article requires photo and video material. If the information you need is not on the site at the moment, then ask a question in the comments. Almost everything Finishing work I know them well, and I will quickly give you an answer.

Good evening Aryom. The plans are not of a doctor, but of an engineer-designer. But it’s intended......!

In general, a log house does not require a particularly powerful foundation. In Mari villages, log houses still stand on six stones. Well, this is of course an anachronism, but they are worth it.

About driven piles. Is there anything special about the soil there? And now there is screw piles, Their installation is easier and they are cheaper, and they don’t need to be as deep. Well, if, of course, the soil is swampy, then it’s a different matter.

About the excavator. To dig a meter-long trench 60 meters long takes half a day. There are more problems with an excavator. Well, if, of course, the soil is rocky, then it’s a different matter. You see how difficult it is to answer questions about the foundation without knowing all the local circumstances.

The excavator digs so hard that much more of the solution is then lost and spreads over the uneven surfaces. Manually exactly.

You often mention bottled stone, apparently there is a lot of it, but here we use it more and more for finishing. The fences there are exclusive, etc.

Let's get better at the log house. A finished log house can only be taken with a good specialist, it’s right that he refused. And when they cut, don’t be lazy, come and check that they cut a semicircular groove and maintain its width. Don’t listen if they say that everyone does this and there are no complaints. This is deceit. Demand yours, and don’t be fooled by prepayment. Categorically. If they cut down part of it, check it and if it’s OK, pay. At least at the crown, but not in advance. Otherwise you will be tormented to prove your point, even though you are 1.92 m tall. The most common deceit is “You need to buy timber.” You pay money for the forest, and then there’s nowhere to go. And the hassle begins.

Measuring 9x12, this is a huge house. But in general, the question is purely individual. And so, a 12-meter winter road is quite businesslike, you just need to make sure that there are such logs from the butt, and the run of the log does not exceed 1 cm per meter. The logs will be hefty, more than 40 cm at the butt. You can't turn these without technology.

In height - if the log house is 3.8, then with floors and ceilings after shrinkage, the height of the ceilings in the room will be 2.6-2.7. So for you you can probably make 14 (4+ m.) crowns so as not to touch the top of the chandelier.

I also have a request: if everything works out with turpentine, will you give me the contact information?

Thanks for the phone, what the hell is not joking. But what if. Yes, and look for advice when I contact you, I have five grandchildren. I won't post it in the comments.

If anything, ask only for individual items and with details. I will definitely answer.

Sergey Yurievich, thank you for your answer!
The site does not flood every spring, but up to 1/2 of the area is flooded. I plan to build a house in the flooded area, but the water is very close. Soil: 20-30 cm fertile chernozem, deeper it is entirely clay, after 50 cm it is quite dense and moist.
About turpentine: I searched on the Internet for “natural gum turpentine” and came up with several links for 0.5 liters from the company “Beauty from Mezroll” Moscow, but it is unclear whether it is natural?
And I also found drying oil from Moscow: BIASK in canisters GOST 7931-76 linen, also: Belarusian and imported: linavarnits from vekker (Finnish?)
Back at the construction site:
why reinforced concrete piles? cheaper and simpler (100 thousand rubles/1 day + 1 day for preparation, a huge margin of safety (maybe even excessive), no problems with soil heaving). Instead of a grillage - lower crown log house
There really is plenty of rubble stone in the Urals, if you take 11 tons in bulk - no more than 10 thousand rubles (or even 7 thousand rubles) with delivery. True, there is more fuss with it, but concrete can be made without reinforcement (the entire mining and factory part of the region is on such foundations, although there is rubble masonry, although not always neat.
I don’t want screw piles, because... not cheaper, but not as reliable, + corrosion of the metal at the place where the blade is welded to the pipe, the angle may sag due to a sharp change in the area of support of the pile on the ground. They are available with cast tips, but are even more expensive (like driven-in reinforced concrete products).
Another question: is it too late to harvest moss now? I often go to the mountains, it’s about to snow here, it’s the “third Indian summer” :).
Regarding consultations: the email from which I wrote the letter is corporate, i.e. at work, you can use it.
I found a hewer in Argayash (Sosnovsky district of the Chelyabinsk region, I have already started cutting a 12x12 m 4-wall log house, everything seems to be neat. We took this log house as a sample (in size), I’m thinking of ordering from him, but he requires a 50% advance payment now, although I said that we would make it from the winter forest and using moss. He promised to help with moss too, there are people who harvest it (I hope after Trinity :)). By the way, what is your price for moss (can I ask the price?).
Your opinion? Should I do the foundation now (I can do it before the snow) or in June? The log house will be left standing on the woodcutters' site, although it is unknown for how long.
Thank you, see you!

Sergey Yuryevich, hello again!
Tell me (main milestones) how to plan a 12x12 m log house so that it is easier to reheat (joists, rafters, rafter beams?)

Internal size 10.7x10.7 m 4-wall, internal partitions made of timber 200x200 mm. + extension 12x6 m.
The roof is a simple gable roof, or mansard type(but a cold attic).
Entrance from the north through the annex.
Bathroom, toilet, boiler room and storage room in the annex.
In the log house: two children's rooms, one adult bedroom and living room/kitchen
How to do it without a long corridor?
Thanks in advance.

Good evening Artyom. Well, well, well, since everything has been calculated, there are no objections.

You know, I’m not a design engineer, and I can’t say exactly how it will be better, since all my knowledge is based only on personal experience. I know what I did.

The log house was once installed on driven piles on the banks of the Kama, but there groundwater they were close, 1.5-2.0 meters and loam, but you have clay and that’s good. Usually the clay on top is damp, but if you dig 50 centimeters deeper, then it is already dry and hard, a la brick. In any case, there have never been any problems with foundations on clay.

And we have a lot of soils similar in description to yours in Tatarstan. Especially along the right bank there is completely black soil from 0.3 m to 1.0 m, and then clay.

The drilled drill with a grillage showed itself very well on such soils. But since you make a rubble one there, then you need to make one. I always try to consult the old-timers before deciding on the foundation, and this tactic has never let me down.

About the moss. It can be prepared before specific frosts. But you probably don’t need it. If the log house was waiting for installation, then it would be a different matter, but in the winter they will cut it down for you, it will sit until July, and there will be fresh moss.

As for the hewer, I don’t know how, but we need to force him to cut down the way he should. Because you need it, and not “we do this for everyone.”

If only you knew how much outright hack work they produce. The demand is huge, the buyers have no knowledge, and this has led to the fact that log houses are being made, with which there are only problems.

Well, I seem to have described everything in my articles, I won’t repeat it, but keep in mind that everything that is said there must be followed, and only then will the log house live up to your dreams.

Here is another article that I removed in connection with the termination of the brigade’s work. According to the age. . There is also something very useful in it.

And one more thing, if it's useful to you. High-quality log house, from good wood manual cutting cannot be cheaper than 12,000 per cubic meter. How much joy I saw in connection with the purchase inexpensive log house and how many tears there are when using it.

It is better to do the foundation now and leave it for the winter. Definitely.

About the layout of the log house. Here free application https://www.sketchup.com/ru. I draw everything in it. Like that:

There is a version for mobile. The simplest toolbar, 3D, rotation from any angle, you can go inside, dimensions. Master it for a couple of days and do whatever your heart desires and however you like.

Yes indeed. There are two companies, a company in Mari-El Drevo12 and somewhere in Altai Kedroff. I dealt with their log houses. I even visited the Mari on the site, and finished the Altai log house. Top class log houses, manual cutting, do not require caulking, but a little expensive. But they will deliver throughout Russia. There are their websites on the Internet. The Mari even better log houses, or rather, the attitude towards their production and installation is more responsible. Look if anything.

The technology of working with plasterboard ensures the creation of ideal smooth walls and light partitions, which, upon completion of installation, can be immediately wallpapered or painted.

To plasterboard structures had reliability, strength and durability, careful compliance with all technological instructions prescribed by the manufacturer is required.

The installation of drywall today is carried out in two ways:

on a frame base;
on glue.

Scheme adhesive installation drywall.

Adhesive installation is usually rarely used, as it has limitations: cladding walls and partitions with sheets in one layer, permissible height- 300 cm. The most common option is installation on a frame base, which is made of wooden beams, slats or from a special metal profile developed by the drywall manufacturer.

Wood frame

Mounted to the wall using dowels. The sheets are fastened to the frame of partitions and walls using screws, the pitch between which is 0.25 m or in accordance with the markings indicated on the gypsum board. This frame is used to create partitions and ceiling structures.

To make the frame, you need to drill holes for dowels or wooden plugs corresponding to the material of this type of ceiling, and secure the slats.

Metal carcass

It is the most effective and frequently used. For the installation of walls and partitions made of plasterboard, several profile types made of galvanized steel, as well as a set of fasteners: brackets, hangers, brackets, couplings and other elements.

When creating a frame, the following profiles are used:

C.W. They are rack profiles and are installed in a vertical position.
U.W. Guide. Attached to the horizontal base of the floor or ceiling.
U.D. It is mounted when frame formation is required for subsequent cladding of walls and partitions.
U.D. Designed for mounting along the ceiling perimeter.
CD. Performs load-bearing functions of walls and partitions.
U.W. Notched and flexible arched. Used to create a curved surface.
U.A. Designed for installation of doorways.

When choosing a profile, in addition to dimensions and functional purposes, you must definitely pay attention to the manufacturer. The modern construction market presents a profile of not only domestic but also foreign companies.

The imported standard profile has a thickness of 0.6 mm, which is sufficient for reliable strength and rigidity. But some manufacturers, in an effort to reduce production costs, produce profiles using thinner metal, which also affects its quality.

Fasteners

Plasterboard sheets are attached to profile frame self-tapping screws. The step of their placement depends on the mass, area and shape of the structure. It is required to follow the instructions for installing walls and partitions specified by the manufacturer. It is recommended to use galvanized screws or of stainless steel, otherwise, during further operation, rusty smudges and stains may form at the joints.

Self-tapping screws must be screwed in perpendicular to the surface of the sheets. The depth of penetration into the profile of a metal stand is at least 1 cm, and in wooden blocks- not less than 2 cm.

The screw head is recessed 1 mm into the plasterboard sheet and then puttyed.

Before production finishing cladding using materials on water basics If non-galvanized screws were used, the caps must be coated with nitro enamel or alcohol varnish, which will help prevent corrosion.

Plasterboard sheets must be joined together load-bearing profiles walls and partitions. If this is not possible, then installation of an additional profile is required in such a place.

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Partitions and walls

To carry out redevelopment, it is not necessary to use mortar and brick. Quite reliable and strong internal structure, which can withstand loads of up to 150 kg/m2, can be done using plasterboard technology.

Design features, as well as thermal insulation, acoustic and mechanical properties further walls and partitions depend on the location and type of profile used, plasterboard, and available types of insulation.

Racks and the type of profiles are selected depending on the height of the premises and the load created on the structure. For example, with a load of up to 50 kg/m2, a single frame will be sufficient; the thickness of the sheets is 1.5 cm.

If the load on the walls and partitions is large, the thickness should be at least 1.8 cm.

In some situations, wall frames have additional reinforced posts and metal rods, with the help of which the supports are pulled together.

Before starting installation, a wall and ceiling markings position of partitions, walls and door openings using a marker, cord and tape measure.

To eliminate structural noise, it is recommended to stick foam rubber or polyurethane tape onto the profile guides and posts before installation.

The installation of profiles is carried out using screws and dowels, optimal step is a distance of 0.8 m. In this case, the number of UW profiles of any length must be at least three pieces per intermediate segment.

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Rack and ceiling profiles

If it is necessary to lengthen the profiles and racks, this is done by inserting them into each other; the required overlap between them should be 0.5, 0.7 or 1 m. This parameter depends on the size of the profiles themselves. The extension is made first from the bottom and then from the top of the rack.

The entry of the rack into the ceiling guides must be a distance of at least 2 cm. Afterwards, vertical alignment occurs, with the required step between the axes being from 0.3 to 0.6 meters.

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Frame covering

The sheets are fastened using self-tapping screws or screws, and the distance between them is 0.25 m. Using two-layer sheathing, the distance between the fastening points of the sheets of the first layer can be increased to 0.75 m. It is necessary to provide for the offset of the vertical seams by one step.

After one frame side, racks and the necessary electrical and sanitary communications have been installed, installation is required insulating material (mineral wool or glass wool). This material needs good fastening to avoid subsequent slipping or displacement.

After completing the cladding work, the fastening points, cracks, joints and seams are puttied.

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Plasterboard ceiling

Achieve smooth and smooth ceilings possible using plasterboard sheets. Ceilings are installed on a metal or wooden frame. The differences between frame bases and profiles are determined by the options for hanging to the floors, connections and guide profiles.

The wooden frame is installed from bars, the cross-section of which depends on the distance between the fastening elements and the thickness of the sheets. For example, if the distance between the dowels is 0.85 m with single-layer sheathing, then optimal cross-section is 0.5x0.6 m.

When installing bars, it is necessary to use metal dowels.

Component diagram suspended ceiling from plasterboard.

Installing sheets on metal carcass, requires the use of load-bearing CD profiles fixed to the floor panel with adjustable hangers. The upper ends of the suspensions are attached with dowels or anchors to the base of the ceilings, and guides are mounted to their lower parts.

The length of the hangers is adjustable, which will allow the creation of a flat horizontal plane or a plane located at the desired angle from profiles.

The number of fasteners and their pitch are measured depending on the area and weight of the ceilings.

The CD profile fasteners must be located at the same level. For these purposes, a thread or cord is stretched and secured between opposite walls. They are used to mark the line for the installation of the suspensions themselves. On opposite wall The installation points where the UD profile guides will be located are marked at the same heights. The ends of the CD profiles will be inserted into them. Next, the installation points between the CD profile are measured (the same distance from each other). Installing CD profiles on ceilings is very easy. They are hooked to the fasteners, then aligned in horizontal planes.

Ready-made frames ensure structural stability with a maximum distance between CD profiles of 0.4 m and sheet thicknesses from 6 to 125 mm. Plasterboard sheets are fastened along the premises in rows parallel to each other. In this case, the distance between the screws should be about 0.15-0.2 m, and the length of the seams between the gypsum boards should be no more than 0.5-0.7 cm.

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Choosing drywall

Today there are 2 types of plasterboard sheets:

GKL. Are common plasterboard sheets for wall installation.
GKLV. Is moisture-resistant plasterboard, which is used in rooms where there is high humidity(bathroom, etc.).
GKLVO. These are moisture-resistant and fire-resistant sheets, and the duration of exposure to fire depends on the manufacturer and brand of drywall.

The most common are:

plasterboard, which has sheet dimensions of 2.5x1.2x0.125 meters;
a rack profile with guides and dimensions of 2.8x2.7 cm and an arched one, used for constructing plasterboard arches.

To install plasterboard sheets with your own hands, you need the following tools:

Hammer. It is recommended to use a light and not very powerful tool (no more than 1 kW) and with an impact force of up to 5 kJ. It is preferable that there is a triple mode between switching (breaker, impact and drilling mode). With this tool you can not only drill required holes, but also with the use of special nozzles, you can make various mixtures for installation or putty work for cladding.
Drill. It must be light weight, variable speed, since the construction of wall and partition profiles is based on a metal base.
Screwdriver. At home use You can get by with a small electric screwdriver or a small electric drill. Frequent and professional use requires a high-quality screwdriver. The speed, quality and ease of work when installing walls, partitions and elements between them will depend on the characteristics and the chosen brand.
Grinder or grinder angle machine for cladding. Requires lightweight and handy tool small sizes. You can purchase any inexpensive model.
Electric jigsaw. Using it, it is possible to cut out various intricate details from plasterboard; it is necessary when installing plasterboard sheets on wood profile. It is better to choose a convenient tool.
Roulette. Needed almost everywhere. The most convenient and optimal sizes are 1.9 to 2.5 cm wide and 5 m long. We recommend tape measures with a two-component or cut-off body, with a magnetic tuck.
Metal scissors. Needed for cutting metal profiles. Must have good quality, since the main part of the installation of a metal profile frame is performed with their help. First of all, this applies to the installation of an ellipsoidal or round ceiling. Scissors have three types: straight, right and left, depending on their purpose and owner.
Hammer. Should weigh about 300 g, have a durable and lightweight handle. The use of a carpenter's hammer is recommended.
Drywall knife. Must have a segmented blade, preferably with standard width 1.8 cm. Plasterboard knives have retractable and screw blade stoppers or a fixation system. It is recommended to purchase a knife that has a metal body and a metal rubberized handle, which makes it easier and more convenient to use.
Level. Determines the quality and accuracy of work. When working with plasterboard sheets, they are usually used different levels and hydraulic levels. It is recommended to purchase levels with a magnet or side magnetic tape, which will make it easier to install metal structures. If there is a considerable amount of work to be done in large rooms, purchase recommended laser level. Most the best option is the presence of a self-leveling laser level with four functions (diagonal, horizontal, rotation and angle 45°C, 90°C).

It wouldn’t hurt to have a mounting belt, riveting pliers, a plumb line, a rule and a drywall plane. Related Tools is the presence of a tapping cord, a square, construction pencils and markers for marking, a cutter for fixing metal structure and many other tools, the need for which may arise for specific work in a particular room.

Many people know about the existence metal profile for plasterboard, also everyone knows what it is intended for, but not many have thought about how to work with it correctly. First, you need to understand that not all rolled metal that is on the market today can be used for installing drywall.

Those. You can use any, but the quality of the work done proportionally depends on the quality of the metal profile. Many consumers buy a cheaper one and do not think about why it is cheaper than its analogues. Therefore, when purchasing a metal profile, be sure to pay attention to its rigidity.

The thickness of the manufactured metal profile is from 0.5 to 0.8 mm. The thicker it is, the more reliable the design will be, but the cost of the product also increases. If it is possible to order a metal profile directly from the factory, then you can order any length. The standard length of manufactured profiles is 2750, 3000, 4000, 4500 mm.

Rack profile (PS) are used to construct plasterboard partitions. There is a PS different sizes: 50x50 mm, 65x50 mm, 75x50 mm, 100x50 mm. The choice of one or another size of metal profile is determined by the choice of thickness and sound insulation of the partition.

Position the PS vertically, securing it to the guide profile using special tool. For ease of installation, the standard size is reduced by 1.5 mm. Thus, the vertical metal profile is inserted into the guide without deformation.

The PS has a U-shape in cross-section, so it must be installed so that the direction of the open side is in one direction. This ensures convenient installation of plasterboard sheets and will prevent the profile from bending at the joints of the sheets.

Along the entire metal profile there are special grooves that prevent the screw from slipping when screwing in. These grooves also serve as a guide when joining sheets of drywall.

(PN) is made in the same sizes as PS. The only difference is that there are no guide grooves and there are holes for attaching to the plane. It is believed that the holes make it easier to install the metal profile, but in addition to simplifying the work, small drawbacks arise. The dowel inserted into the hole may be slightly smaller in diameter and this will lead to a loose fastening of the profile to the plane, so it is better to drill a new hole that will correspond to the diameter of the dowel.

PN differs from PS in the absence of wrapped shelves. This, in fact, allows it to be used as a guide profile.

(PP) is used for installing suspended ceilings or covering plasterboard walls. The PP has a standard U-shape, measuring 60 or 55x27 mm. Along the entire length of the metal profile there are three grooves, which are used for centering sheets and screwing in self-tapping screws.

The edges of the profile are inserted into the guide profile and secured to the plane using special fasteners, which are installed at a certain pitch. Fasteners can be divided into internal and external. Internal fasteners are inserted inside the metal profile and attached to the ceiling with special pins (steel wire), and external fasteners are attached to the profile shelves using self-tapping screws. The use of certain fasteners is determined by the distance from the frame to the load-bearing plane.

Internal fasteners, also called quick hangers, are used when installing the ceiling. External, direct fastenings can be used both when installing ceilings and when covering walls with plasterboard.

(PNP) is used as a guide profile for PP. PNP size - 27x28 mm. It has the same characteristics as the PN, so it is worth installing it, guided by the same descriptions.

When using PNP in the installation of a suspended ceiling, it is attached around the perimeter of the entire room. When covering walls, it is attached to the walls, ceiling and floor.

Many of us are sure that drywall is modern construction material, which came into use only at the end of the last century. No! In fact, this type of material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, production technologies have changed during this time, but this does not change the following fact: everyone can master the basic aspects of handling drywall on their own.

As a rule, today no one uses wooden blocks to mount the frame; instead they are used metal profiles U-shaped.

Working with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.

Guide profiles for creating a frame, also often called PN or UW. They have a standard depth of 40 mm, and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as the previous profiles, but are used for installing suspended ceilings.
Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and lintels. They are inserted into guides and secured to the ceiling with hangers, crabs, and anchor clamps.
Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is necessary to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed into guides.

The main fastening elements for the frame profile are self-tapping screws, the length of which ranges from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and assembly pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling using anchors or dowel-nails.

Do not be intimidated by the large set of parts used when installing drywall. This is not a complete list of what is used professional builders. In addition, do not forget that one-time work only implies the presence of direct hangers, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.

Particular attention should be paid to the tools for installing drywall on walls.

Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill, the impact force of which is 3-5 J. Using a hammer drill, making a hole in concrete is much easier than impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the hammer drill is perfect for mixing various mixtures for putty and installation. For this you need a special mixer attachment.

No less important is cordless screwdriver with a set of special attachments for screwing screws with different types hats

In addition to power tools, hand tools are also used:

hammer;
metal scissors;
screwdriver;
stationery knife;
markers;
laser level or hydraulic level;
planer for drywall;
pliers.

To attach one frame post with a height of 2.5 m to the wall, use five direct hangers, that is, 1 hanger every 50 cm.

To secure each, two anchors are used; a total of 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.

How to work with drywall

Working with drywall means, first of all, creating a frame and then covering it. Usually, leveling walls, erecting partitions, arches and niches.

Installing drywall with your own hands is as follows.

- Step back from the wall at least 3 cm (profile width), and make marks: using a plumb line or laser level, draw a line on which the plasterboard wall will be located.
- Attach the main guide UD profiles to the floor and ceiling. Their edge should follow your line.
- After this you need to set vertical racks from CD profiles. To do this, they are inserted into the guides and screwed to each other with self-tapping screws.
- To give rigidity to the CD profiles, they are attached to the wall every 50 cm using hangers, which are fastened to the wall with two dowel nails. The hangers are screwed to the profiles with self-tapping screws, and their corners are bent.

- Width standard sheet plasterboard is 120 cm, so the distance between the centers of the CD profiles is 60 cm.
- After mounting the frame, insulation, electrical wiring, water pipes or heating pipes.
- When installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling, not only direct hangers are used, but also wire ties and “butterflies”, which have special steel “wings” that fix the ties at the required distance from the ceiling.

assumes that you use special fastenings for this - anchors.
Self-tapping screws for installing drywall are screwed in in increments of 25-30 centimeters.

If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, you can very easily do it yourself. For this stationery knife cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the plaster layer, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after the break.

How to seal sheet joints

After installation is completed, it is necessary. When joining entire sheets, the edges must form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut to ensure a triangular seam.

For filling assembly seam use putty. The joint is reinforced with a painting mesh (serpyanka). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To strengthen the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.

If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, use a spiked roller to make holes in a sheet of cardboard and moisten it generously with water. After 10-15 minutes, the plaster will get wet, and you can give it any shape without any problems.
This technique is often used for and.

Nowadays, not a single apartment renovation can be done without this. practical material like drywall. If you learn how to work with it correctly, you will be able to create amazing designs for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.