Homemade fuel oil burner. Babington waste oil burner: drawings and principle of operation

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Disposal of used motor oil (waste oil) is a fairly serious problem all over the world. At the same time, the energy potential of mining is high; By burning it, you can get a lot of heat, incomparably cheaper than from any other energy source. The question of how to make a burner for testing with your own hands is of interest not only to those professionally involved in the automotive industry - a stock of testing will help save a significant amount on heating utility rooms in a private household. The waste is completely unsuitable for heating residential premises due to the original additives contained in the motor oil and the impurities that got into it during operation. However, waste is a very specific fuel, and any other liquid fuel burner will not work with it. This article discusses what types of burners “eat” waste and what needs to be taken into account when making them.

Fuel Features

Spray fuel is not only dirty, but also very sticky. One of the tasks of engine oil additives is to ensure that a thin layer adheres to friction surfaces operating under difficult conditions. Therefore, burners during processing work almost exclusively with heating of the fuel, which increases its fluidity: too viscous fuel will not mix properly with air, will not pass through the nozzle nozzle, or will not coat the spray head in an even layer (see below).

Setting fire to the waste is also not so easy: what kind of engine oil would it be burning in a very hot engine? In fact, only an electric spark and a gas torch are suitable for quick and reliable ignition of waste. There is, however, one exception, see below.

And thirdly, the waste is contaminated not only with solid particles, but also with water and/or antifreeze that got into it from the internal combustion engine cooling system. Fuel filtration is a rather complex process. It makes sense to organize it only if fuel burner is constantly available, for example, in a fairly large and busy auto repair shop, and the burner used for burnout for irregular use should be insensitive not only to solid contaminants, but also to water content in the fuel.

Electricity for burner

This leads to an unfavorable conclusion: there are no energy-independent burners during mining. There are ways to burn waste without pressurization and heating, but such devices (see below) give acceptable technical and environmental indicators only as part of heat-generating devices developed at the same time and are not burners as such. Therefore, if your power supply is unreliable and there is enough waste, it would be better to use a boiler.

Which one should I do?

Based on the listed features, a homemade waste oil burner can be made according to one of the following. systems:

• Ejection with supercharging.
• Spray injection (Babington burner).
• Fuel-air free volumetric combustion (cup evaporative burner).

Comparative advantages and disadvantages

Ejection

The ejection burner ensures complete combustion of fuel and the minimum possible amount of by-products in the exhaust gases. The flame is hot, over 1200 degrees, fuel consumption is minimal for this class of devices (see also at the end). The power of homemade ones is 1.5-100 kW. Burner power adjustment (modulation) is possible within the entire specified range. Without restrictions, it is applicable for technological purposes, and in exceptional cases it is applicable for temporary heating of residential premises, if the combustion door is standard heating stove or the boiler goes into a non-residential area - into the hallway, closet, furnace room, etc.

Note: the kitchen and bathhouse are considered living quarters.

The disadvantages of an ejection burner during mining are also significant:

1. Technically complex: precise metal parts are used that require machine tools for production;
2. In untreated mining, it immediately fails, so it is pointless to make an ejection burner at mining without acquiring a fuel filter station;
3. The most energy-dependent - its own specific power consumption is approx. 20 W per 1 kW of thermal power in the range of the latter 5-40 kW. Below and above these values, the own specific power consumption increases.
4. Requires the supply of control automation, because it is very sensitive to the properties and quality of the fuel, which are also unstable in purified waste;
5. More than other types of burners during testing, they are prone to avoidable operational failures.

Ejection burners are used to burn waste mainly for heating large premises or ensuring technological processes in conditions where fuel for them is constantly available.

Injection

An injection burner is completely insensitive to the degree of contamination of the fuel, as long as 30-40% of something combustible remains in it. Technically simpler than the previous one, a Babington burner can be made at home from scrap materials (see below) if you have a tabletop drilling machine. Power range in amateur version – approx. 3-20 kW. Burner modulation is possible from approx. from 30% of maximum power. It is possible to achieve modulation from 10% maximum, but the technical complexity of manufacturing increases significantly, and the tendency to failure increases. Can operate without electrical fuel heating; in this case, its own energy consumption is up to 300 W, regardless of the thermal power; in the vast majority of cases - up to 100 W. If the fuel is heated by a heating element in storage tank, then the own energy consumption is the same as before. case. Without automatic control, it is prone to failures when changing a batch of fuel without reconfiguring the burner.

For do-it-yourselfers, an important advantage of the Babington burner is that its pressurization can provide compresses from an old broken refrigerator, see below. However, the Babington burner has plenty of disadvantages:

• Fuel does not burn completely. The fuel efficiency of the simplest Babington burner (see below) is approx. 80% It is possible to bring the degree of fuel combustion to 95-97%, but then its technical complexity increases to that of ejection. True, turning and milling machines are still not required for manufacturing, and the burner’s own energy consumption does not increase;
• As a consequence of the previous p., the Babington burner emits a lot of fuel vapor into the air, which makes it absolutely unsuitable for residential premises and limitedly suitable for premises with people and/or objects sensitive to oiling temporarily staying there. However, it is possible to drive the flame of a Babington burner into a pipe (see below), which significantly reduces these disadvantages;
• The flame is also dirty and not very hot, up to 900-1000 degrees. Therefore, an injection burner during processing is of limited applicability for thermal technological processes with ferrous metals, but it will ruin non-ferrous and especially precious metals.

Homemade Babington burners are most often used for temporary heating of utility rooms or in simple technological processes, for example, for heating ordinary structural steel for bending.

Evaporative

A fuel-air burner for processing can be made from scrap materials at hand without the use of complex technological operations. Power – approx. 5-15 kW. Fuel without reconfiguration consumes any heavy fuel: in addition to mining, other mineral and vegetable oil, fuel oil, oil sludge. It only fails if used incorrectly. It emits more by-products of fuel combustion than the previous one, therefore it is applicable either for temporary starting heating devices With good chimney in non-residential premises, or on outdoors. For technological purposes, its applicability is very limited, because produces a column of hot gases with a temperature of less than 600 degrees. The type of burner that is most accessible for manufacturing by beginning craftsmen is to be tested.

Schemes and designs

Ejection

Another feature of mining as a fuel is that it is very difficult to supply all the air necessary for its combustion under pressurization; a lot of it is required. Therefore, by pressurizing in burners of this type, fuel is mainly drawn out from the ejector nozzle and atomized, and air for afterburning is sucked directly into the flame. This scheme makes it possible to use electric power of up to 100 W for supercharging, and the rest is spent on heating the fuel with a heating element. IN general idea is: part electrical power(with a significant increase, by the way), necessary for pressurization with fuel that is more fluid, we use it to heat the exhaust, and a generally conventional ejection burner works on it.

A well-known diagram of the design of an ejection burner during testing and drawings of its heart - the nozzle for approx. 3-30 kW are given in Fig. Such a burner is installed on a blind flange in the combustion opening of the furnace/boiler, and secondary air is sucked into the torch through the ash pan. However, in addition to the nozzle, there are still subtle points in this design.

Turbulizer

The first of them is an air flow turbulator (swirler in the diagram in the figure above). Pressurization of the ejector burner during processing can be provided by a built-in volute fan or, through a gearbox, by the pneumatic system of the enterprise or by an industrial (possibly domestic of a similar design) piston compressor. For a burner power of about 3-15 kW, boost from a refrigeration compressor of 250 W electric is also possible.

Depending on the method of pressurization, the design of the turbulator changes. Compressor or wiring compressed air to drive a pneumatic tool, under the conditions necessary for fuel ejection in the burner air jacket, they provide too powerful and fast an air flow. The same is possible with a snail that is too powerful, for example taken from old trash. In this case, the turbulator should be an annular diaphragm around the nozzle with wide, slightly curved outer blades, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. A pseudo-laminar jet of air from the diaphragm will pull the fuel out of the nozzle and ensure its stable ignition (see below), and 3-5 cm from the diaphragm, the burning oil mist will be picked up by a powerful whirlwind, atomized until it evaporates and is completely burned.

If the air flow is optimal (built-in snail according to calculation) or weak (compressor from a refrigerator), then a turbulator made of many narrow, more curved internal blades is combined with the diaphragm, and an annular gap of 0.5-1.5 cm is left along the edge of the turbulator. - the swirler has less resistance to the air flow, a weak, but immediately well-twisted vortex effectively sucks out and sprays the fuel, and the annular flow from the gap prevents the vortex from spreading to the sides until the fuel evaporates in the torch.

Note: the appropriateness of one or another turbulator for a particular burner is determined by experience - fuel ignition should be stable, and there should be no flameouts throughout the entire burner power adjustment range. You need to start with the diaphragm with the outer blades, bending them more and more. If it doesn’t work out, you need to switch to a turbulator diaphragm with internal blades.

Ignition

The second subtlety is igniting the torch. An auto candle with a removed “foot” (body lamella) is not very suitable, because designed to ignite light fuel vapors short spark, and not a heavy, long fog.

The burner torch must be ignited during production using electrodes for igniting liquid fuel boilers, see fig. The distance between the dischargers (spouts, tips) of the electrodes is required 3-8 mm (for burners 3-30 kW), and the distance from the bare metal parts of the electrodes to the nearest metal parts the structure should be at least three times larger. Turning on the nozzle: at the moment of ignition, the spark gaps must be in the oil mist emitted by the nozzle and ignite it with a spark among themselves. Ignition with a spark from a spark gap to the injector will produce a weak, unstable flame that can easily be disrupted by fluctuations in boost or fuel supply.

To ignite with two spark gaps, a special ignition transformer with an insulated secondary winding of 6-8 kV is required. Its terminals are connected to the ignition electrodes with wires in thick, from 2 mm, heat-resistant insulation made of silicone or Teflon (fluoroplastic). The latter is better: when heated to 150 degrees, the penetration resistance of fluoroplastic-4 remains approx. 80 kV per 1 mm, and silicone will not exceed 20 kV/mm. Such a huge margin of electrical strength is necessary due to severe contamination of the wires during operation.

A special ignition transformer is expensive because... These are produced for boilers from 20 kW. If the burner power is up to 15 kW (and for the Babington burner described below), you can use a single-wire ignition circuit from a car ignition coil with a spark from the electrode to the nozzle; This means the presence of only one high-voltage wire. The condition is manual switching to the mode: the burner is lit at minimum power and manually brought to the standard setting, making sure that the torch does not clog in convulsions or break.

To ignite the burner during testing using a single-wire circuit, the body terminal of the transformer is connected to the burner body and the nozzle with different return wires. Spark is not D.C., and a pulsed discharge, and the electrical circuit becomes sensitive to the presence of reactivity in it. The electrical reactivity of the massive burner body is greater than that of the nozzle, which already makes it easier for the spark to choose the nozzle. If you additionally include a small inductance in the body return wire (see figure), then single-wire ignition will become quite stable.

About automation

Burners for testing, the operating mode of which is set from a remote control (for example, the well-known NORTEC) are very expensive, but without automation there is no point in installing a homemade ejection burner for testing: even with a fixed power and filling with fuel from the same batch, it is necessary to regulate simultaneously to obtain a stable flame fuel heating and air supply. Therefore, homemade ejection burners during development (excluding samples, just to tinker with them) are made semi-automatic with manual power setting and the use of relatively inexpensive automation from heating boilers, see for example. video

Video: burner in operation with automation

Babington burner

Robert Babington himself, who patented his burner in 1979, admitted that, having despaired of coming up with a nozzle that would not become clogged from working out, he remembered one of Murphy’s laws, which states: “If the iron still doesn’t want to work, try making it it's the other way around." Babington tried blowing air through a thin layer of oil - it worked. The fog began to set in, and how to burn it is a known matter.

This technical solution was possible due to the fact that oil is a rheological liquid. Simply - superfluid. It is not only exotic helium II that is superfluid. There are plenty of rheological fluids all around us. Anyone who has forgotten an open jar of sunflower oil on the table will immediately understand.

The design of the Babington burner is shown on the left in the figure, and on the right is the design of the combustion chamber (afterburner) for it. The disadvantage of this burner is already visible here: in order to burn the waste by more than 95%, a 3-stage air supply is required (except for atomization), and partially heated. Although boost is still not required.

The Babington burner operates quite simply: fuel drips onto a spray head with a spherical surface, which ensures its uniform spreading. It drips in excess so that the air always has something to blow off. The oil thrown out by a jet of air from the nozzle in the head forms a mist, which is set on fire. The fuel film constantly creeps onto the nozzle due to the rheological properties of the oil. Excess fuel flows into the collection tank, from where the feed pump supplies it through the heater back to the supply tank (feeder). Often, instead of a float turning on the pump, the feeder is provided with the excess in the tank draining directly into the collection tank; In this case, the feed pump operates continuously. However, the Babington burner also has enough design nuances.

Is a full sphere necessary?

The power removed from one Babington burner nozzle is limited by the finite value of oil fluidity. Therefore, the heads of powerful Babington burners are literally riddled with pores. If no more than 5-7 kW is required from the burner, it is possible to use part of the spherical surface instead of a technologically complex full-spherical head.

The design of a Babington burner with a partially spherical spray head is shown in Fig. (how to do this is described in detail and with photos here: diyworkplace.ru/14-diy-oil-burner.html). In addition to the availability of materials, it is good to learn how to adjust the fuel supply with this burner: a little more, the oil flows behind the blade of the head, stinks, burns, and clogs the spray chamber.

The sphere is still better

The spherical head in the Babington burner is also better because it saves fuel: in a burner with a partially spherical head, a good portion of the return burns until it is impossible to use. In the end, it turns out that there is still a quarter or more in the tank, but the burner does not start.

How to make a Babington burner spray head from inexpensive materials completely different purposes, widely available, are shown in the figure:

The good thing about a curtain rod plug is that its cut surface is flat and even. Drilling a nozzle hole in such a head blank is not difficult using a conventional drilling machine. If it moves away from the pole of the sphere within 1-2 mm, it’s okay. The main thing is that the axes of the nozzle and the sphere will be parallel and the torch will shoot evenly. You can even increase the power of the burner by drilling 3-4 holes around the pole of the sphere no closer than 6 mm from each other in a triangle or square. All that remains is to decide - how to drill?

How to make a 0.25 hole with a 0.6 drill

The permissible limits for the diameter of the Babington burner nozzle are 0.1-0.5 mm. A smaller one is removed from the narrow nozzle maximum power, but the range of its adjustment expands, which is carried out by changing the air pressure for spraying. The latter for a 0.1 mm nozzle can vary within 0.5-5 atm, for a 0.25 mm nozzle - 1-3 atm, and the pressure in front of a 0.5 mm nozzle must be kept within 2 (+/-)0, 2 atm, otherwise the flame either breaks or goes out. Babington recognized the nozzle diameter of 0.25 mm as optimal; narrower nozzles become clogged with dust from the air, which requires at least 2-stage cleaning.

But how to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.25 mm? You can’t buy drills like this everywhere, and the machine needs high precision, otherwise the drill will immediately break.

The way out is to make a nozzle from part of a needle from a medical syringe. The channel diameters of syringe needles are 0.2-1 cubic meters. see are just within optimal limits, and their outside diameter 0.4-0.6 mm. These drills are widely available, and they can be inserted into a regular tabletop drill. Making a Babington burner nozzle from a medical needle is done as follows. way:

• Cut a piece from the needle 2-3 mm longer than the thickness of the head wall.
• We use a thin, stiff wire to remove sawdust and burrs.
• Using a drill slightly larger than the outer diameter of the needle, we drill a pioneer channel in the head. If you use a 0.6 drill to drill a channel for a 0.4 needle from the outside, it’s okay.
• Using a drill with a diameter 0.15-0.2 mm larger than the pioneer one, we countersink the hole on both sides. The chamfer needs to be removed tiny, so we countersink by hand, wrapping the drill shank with electrical tape and turning it with your fingers.
• We insert a piece of needle into the pioneer hole.
• Using two sharp awls or, better yet, metalworker's scribers, we unfold the ends of the needle segment. You need to unfold it at the same time, pressing lightly and turning the tools in opposite directions.
• We leave the bell inside as is, it does not interfere with anything.
• We remove the external excess using an emery stone no rougher than No. 360.
• Once again we clean the nozzle channel, blow it out - the head is ready.

What if the head is already ready?

A very possible option. If you take a ready-made diesel fuel nozzle onto the head; A defective one made from junk or cheap will do. Fans are confused by the fact that they are produced with a power of 20 kW, but in in this case there is nothing to be afraid of, because It is not diesel fuel that will flow into the nozzle, but air. But her working surface exactly hemispherical, mirror-smooth, with a collar that prevents the oil from flowing where it shouldn’t and burning. The nozzle, however, will be from 0.7 mm, but it can be narrowed as described above. How to make a Babington burner head from a diesel injector, suitable for long-term intensive use, and even with automation from a water heating boiler, see the story

Video: Babington burner with automation

Compressor for atomization

Atomizing air in a Babington burner requires a little air, but under decent pressure. A compressor from an old refrigerator is best suited for this purpose, but you need to put a car air filter in front of it, otherwise Vacuum pump will quickly fail. You also need a receiver, because... Such a compressor will produce a highly pulsating jet.

How to adapt a compressor from a refrigerator to supply air to a Babington burner during mining

The great advantage of such a system is the ability to automate burner ignition without electronics. For this we use a safety valve (see figure), because The refrigeration compressor builds up pressure to more than 5 atm. Let's take the worst valve, a disc valve with a flat seat (the disc and seat will need to be ground together with abrasive No. 600 or finer and washed with alcohol). Such valves have a large hysteresis (the ratio of opening and closing pressures), but in this case that’s what we need. We will also increase the hysteresis of the valve by placing a weight on its stem. When the compressor pumps the receiver up to the initial response pressure, the valve will “puff” sharply, jump up and close the microswitch that supplies power to the ignition transformer for 1-2 seconds. The oil consumption will go up for combustion, the air flow will increase (it is more difficult to blow through a cold oil film), and the valve will begin to work part-time, not reaching the mic. The adjusting nut is convenient for changing the air pressure to change the burner power.

Compressor lubrication

In a refrigerator, the compressor is lubricated with refrigerant, because It pumps out freon mist from the evaporator rather than pure steam. Suddenly the compressor starts to sputter, which means that there is too much refrigerant and it circulates in the system in a droplet-liquid state. If you force a refrigeration compressor to pump air, it will soon deteriorate without lubrication.

You can lubricate the refrigerator compressor with a spindle or other machine oil for precision mechanics. First you need to make a lubricant dispenser, from a 50-100 ml tank, a needle from a regular syringe for 2-10 cc, a tube from a blood transfusion machine and a pair of clamps from the same. The upper one shuts off the lubricant supply, and the lower one regulates its amount.

The dispenser is adjusted in free space. It is necessary to ensure that a drop of lubricating oil accumulates on the tip of the needle, pointing straight down, for 2-4 minutes, and hangs for the same amount of time until it comes off. Then the needle is inserted perpendicularly into the compressor supply air duct so that its bevel is in the middle of the lumen and oriented along the flow. If the needle is turned sideways or against the air, the oil will not flow.

The system is ready for use, but you will still need to monitor it during operation. Suddenly, some time after starting the burner, the combustion character changes, which means that a lot of oil goes into the compressor and it drives the excess with air. If at least 10 minutes have passed before this, and the flame remains, just begins to pulsate or smoke, you can correct the matter by slightly turning the needle, no more than 45 degrees. If it doesn’t help or symptoms appear earlier, you need to reconfigure the lubricant dispenser for a longer drop accumulation time.

Flame down the chimney!

You can do an interesting experiment with a burner during testing, the results of which are visible in the trace. rice.:

Having passed the burner flame through just 1 m of a wide pipe, we will see it no longer so furious and much cooled down (pos. 1), and a powerful flow of heated air will be noticeable from the pipe up. If you take a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and a length of 3 m (item 2), then the temperature of the gases at its outlet will drop to less than 100 degrees. Let's expose the mouth of the pipe to the outside - the oily stench in the room will no longer be felt, although the gas analyzer will show that the impurities exceed the housing norm. All that remains is to hermetically connect the mouth of the pipe to the chimney, and we will get a heating system with an efficiency of more than 80%.

Evaporative

The waste can be burned without pressurization or heating at all, by dropping it drop by drop into a hot bowl. But such devices, as mentioned above, work more or less decently only as part of a boiler or furnace during mining, so they are not burners in the proper sense and are discussed in other publications.

A fuel-air mixture is supplied to the bowl of the evaporation burner during exhaustion, i.e. a small boost is required (fan from 20 W). The bowl is preheated either with a gas torch (item 1 in the figure), or with regular fuel supplied dropwise (not yet pressurized), ignited by a glow plug (item 2). The latter is easier, but during the first 3-5 minutes there will be a lot of soot. When the flame from the next drop is cleared and begins to rise with noise, the candle is turned off and air is allowed in. Blue tongues will appear in the bowl (positions 3 and 4), indicating complete combustion of the oil, but impurities in it will transform into a chemically more aggressive form and go into the air, so you need to use evaporation burners during processing carefully, see above. The evaporation burner is not critical to the size of the parts; base – 1/2″ and 2″ water pipes.

Note: for temporary start-up of, for example, a garage potbelly stove, it would be more convenient to use an evaporative burner that operates on the same principle, but into which the fuel-air mixture is supplied tangentially from the side, see the video below:

Video: evaporation burner in production for a furnace

Let's sum it up

So, the burner used for testing is quite a complex device; you can’t make one like this on a table at home. However, when deciding whether or not to have a burner in your hands, take into account one more significant circumstance. Namely, the specific fuel consumption for heating is the lowest: approx. 100 ml per 1 kW of thermal power per hour. The best diesel and oil burners consume from 130 ml*kW/hour, and kerosene and gasoline burners from 160 ml*kW/hour. The cost of heating from those, others and others cannot be compared, because working out has already worked out its price in the engine.

This type of burner was developed in the 1960s and gained its popularity as a stove among owners of summer houses and utility rooms that needed to be heated.

Since the burner runs on liquid waste oil, its use is quite cheap compared to gas heating boiler, electricity or solid fuel. It's more economical option than a gas burner.

Used oil is a kind of cheaper alternative to all types of fuel. In addition to the fact that with the help of a burner using waste oil it was possible to heat rooms, it can help with the disposal of used and no longer needed oil. Suitable for both diesel and oil running.

Principle of operation

This device works in the same way as a whale breathes. The oil flows along a curve and, due to surface tension, creates a thin film.

When a jet of air under pressure from small holes pierces the fuel sheet, the combustible mixture is productively atomized, and a certain amount of air picks up the atomized fuel, which completes the entire combustion process. Therefore, efficient combustion does not require any additional air flow.

The main advantage of Babington burners is the absence of any nozzles, which often become clogged, because the fuel immediately comes from above the small air holes.

Note: Since the pump can operate on fuel with various impurities, metal shavings, dirt, a fuel sump will need to be mounted to the burner as a filter, and placed just below the nozzle.

What is required for production

Assembling the burner is not at all difficult, but there are certain components that must all function correctly in order to ensure trouble-free operation.

The burner consists of the following parts:

1. Babington nozzles, which can be used as a door handle. Usually located in the burner.
2. A 20 lb (9 liter) propane tank that will act as a source of compressed air.
3. The liquid fuel pump is usually a gear oil pump. Connects via copper pipe.
4. A cut-off 100 lb (45.36 liter) propane tank can be used as a burner guide. Mounted at the required height. You can also get by with a blowtorch.
5. A settling tank to collect impurities that have not been burned. A cut off unnecessary cylinder will do.
6. A splash catcher, because without it there will be splashes everywhere. A piece of beam is used for this.

It is important: Before making the burner, it is recommended to prepare a fire extinguisher, because this type of fuel can be dangerous.

General view of the finished structure

A cinder block block located at the outlet will help maintain the flame.

When the burner is set correctly, there should be no smoke. The only thing coming out is hot, wavy air.

Under the burner is oil pump. Its task is to suck oil from the tank, where the oil settles, which passes around the propane cylinder twice (at the same time heating up), exits the door handle and, as a result, is sprayed.

Note: in this installation there is no regulation of the propane supply, since it is quite inconvenient to control it with the cylinder handle alone, however, automation can be installed on everything.

Also, to make the design easier to understand, there is no fuel tank; the suspension is immediately poured into the sump. There are various drawings of these burners, but now we are considering the simplest option.

Advantages of this type burners:

• It is quite easy to make without any help.
• cheap way to generate heat.
• An effective and functional device, it is lightweight, which makes the design mobile.

Let's start making our own

We list the main tools that will be needed in the work:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• lathe.

In appearance, the burner looks like a small empty gas cylinder, with the top and bottom sides to which oppositely directed steel pipe sections are welded. The inside of the burner measures only 1 inch (2.54 cm) and its walls are quite large.

A piece of pipe at the bottom is required to supply oil and air to the part where combustion occurs. The short pipe at the top is used as the burner mouth from which the flame will erupt.

Expert advice: to set the air flow entering the oven, a conventional household vacuum cleaner high power.

Manufacturing of the installation

From the outside, the device looks more like an empty gas cylinder. First you need to find an empty gas cylinder of the required volume.

Holes for pipes are drilled along the inside of the marked circle. To drill, you will need a spiral drill. Using a chisel and grinder, you need to remove the jumpers between the drilled holes. To give the correct shape, use a round file or cutter.

Pipes are inserted into the made openings and welded. The pipes are measured in advance and sawed off with a grinder. A hole is made at the bottom of the pipe where the M16 nut will be welded. This is required to secure the oil nozzle.

How is oil supplied to the burner?

A homemade oil nozzle is made using lathe. The base requires a rod with a smooth shank.

It is required to secure the hose to the oil supply. When a flexible oil supply is provided, we cut a thread in this place.

More than half the length of the rod will take metric thread. The pipe has a diameter of 16 mm. A hole is drilled along the entire length of the nozzle, which will come into contact with the transverse part, which is installed below and has a diameter of 3 mm. This part is ordered from professionals, or if you have the skill to work with a lathe, it is done with your own hands.

The principle of operation of the nozzle is that the viscous waste flows out of the hole that was made in the transverse part and is captured by the air charge. The fuel disperses into small drops, making their ignition much easier.

How is air regulation carried out?

The strength of the fire will depend on the calculation of the strength of the air flow.

The basis of the system is to regulate a steel cup or ball that has holes required diameter and the bottom in the form of a semicircle.

This is also done using a lathe. To create a regular hemisphere, cutters are used. It is attached to the L-shaped axis with an M4 screw.

Take into account: to securely connect the hose outlet and ensure correct work air valve, use an adapter that has a slot along its entire length.

When ignition occurs, access to the processing chamber is provided by a heavy lid. It is installed on welded canopies to the neck of the body. When the weight is not heavy, an involuntary discovery may occur. If all parts of the assembly are done correctly, then during operation a violet flame appears as an even background, appearing from the combustion of the air-oil mixture inside the device.

Specialist's note: According to safety rules, you should protect the junction of the nozzle with the hose; this can be done using a steel screen. This will protect the fuel during testing from ignition if the connection is not hermetically sealed.

This burner is quite easy to manufacture, but you should pay close attention to safety rules during operation and further use. It is important to know that you should be especially careful when choosing a cylinder to create the body of the device. The cylinder must be empty, otherwise, when holes are made, it can cause severe injury.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains in detail how to make a Babington burner with your own hands:

During the operation of automobile and tractor transport, significant amount used oil. According to environmental legislation, this oil cannot be poured onto the ground or down the drain, but must be disposed of at special enterprises, incurring significant costs for the budget. Robert Babington's invention solves this problem by using the waste for heating rooms or for heating technological installations. His burner, being simple in design and affordable to manufacture home handyman, characterized by reliability and high energy efficiency.

What is a Babbington burner?

The design of a Babbington liquid fuel burner is simple enough that you can make it yourself in a home workshop. The exhaust burner has the following main components and parts:

• waste container;
• fuel line;
• fuel pump; included in a fuel line break;
• hemisphere with a small diameter hole;
• an air nozzle opening into this hole;
• tray for draining fuel.

The fuel line ends at a certain height above the hemisphere, the waste flows down it and evaporates, the vapors are drawn into the air stream, forming a fuel mixture. The fuel that has not had time to evaporate falls into the pan, and from it through the pipe system back into the fuel container.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the device, for it to be effective and, most importantly, safe work It is necessary to accurately manufacture the main parts and correctly position them relative to each other. Therefore, it is better to download ready-made drawings of the Babington burner and follow the dimensions indicated in them.

Principle of operation

In most known oil burners, the oil-air mixture is supplied through a nozzle under pressure. In contrast, in the Babington system, oil is supplied by a low-pressure pump and flows freely over a surface shaped like a sphere or close to it. The fuel forms a thin film and evaporates, carried away by a stream of air supplied under pressure into a small (up to 0.3 millimeter) hole in the center of the sphere. Oil vapor and air mix, forming a torch of the fuel mixture. This torch is ignited and heats what needs to be heated - the walls of the furnace or the liquid heat exchanger of the boiler.

Some of the oil does not have time to evaporate and burn and flows below the hole, ending up in the fuel collection pan. The waste then flows from the sump into the fuel tank and is reused.

To increase the fluidity and volatility of the mining, it is heated. The heated waste is sprayed into droplets of a smaller volume, which also improves the quality of the fuel mixture and the overall efficiency of the device.

How to make a working burner

To make a waste oil burner with your own hands, you will need:

• cross for water pipes with internal thread, diameter 2 inches;
• a piece of two-inch pipe with a cut external thread, 15-20 cm long;
• copper tube with a diameter of 10 millimeters for supplying fuel;
• metal tube for air supply;
• compressor 2-4 bar;
• oil pump;
• fittings for connecting the fuel line;
• valve for the fuel line to regulate fuel flow;
• hemisphere - a brass furniture handle or spherical nut.

The pump will fit from any car or motorcycle; its drive shaft will need to be connected to an electric motor. It is best to take the compressor from the refrigerator - they are adapted for long-term operation.

The tube is screwed into one of the holes of the crosspiece, and a plug with a hemisphere attached to it is screwed into the opposite hole so that it is in the center of the crosspiece. At the rear, an air supply tube is connected to the hemisphere through a plug.

A fuel line is attached to the upper hole of the cross, from which waste will drip onto the hemisphere. The lower hole leads into a tray to collect unburned oil. All the main components of a waste oil burner, assembled with your own hands:

• cross assembly;
• compressor;
• fuel tank;
• pump;
• power supply and control unit;

fixed on a frame welded from angle steel.

Making a burner nozzle during testing

The nozzle is the most important design element of a do-it-yourself burner for testing. The precision of its manufacture determines the fuel efficiency and safety of the system. How bigger hole nozzles - the more powerful the burner will be.

In addition, it is very important that the air intake channel is even and smooth - then the shape of the torch will be optimal. The best option will use a ready-made jet with a hole of the required diameter, for example, from gas stove or carburetor.

But you can also drill a hole on a drilling machine. Usage hand drill not recommended due to the difficulty of ensuring hole alignment.

A hemisphere can be made from a furniture handle of a suitable diameter or from a hemispherical nut. The nozzle must be mounted flush with the surface of the hemisphere. In the most extreme case, they simply use a strip of metal bent on the rule with a jet welded to it.

The power of the resulting burner can be estimated in advance with a known error. A burner with one 0.3 mm hole can produce approximately 16 kW of thermal power. If you want to high power, then it is better not to increase the diameter of the hole, but to make several of them, at a distance of at least 8 mm from each other. Practice has shown that from an opening larger than 0.3 mm, the air flow becomes turbulent, captures waste vapors worse, and the thermal efficiency of the device decreases.

The history of the appearance of waste engine oil burners

Exhaust burners became widespread in our country in the second half of the 20th century. The population was looking for inexpensive way space heating.

The use of mining, which cost practically nothing, was very profitable compared to the purchase of coal, firewood and even peat, not to mention heating with gas or electricity. More or less economical and safe devices came out of the hands of home craftsmen.

The principle of their operation was reminiscent of the well-known kerosene gas, which ran on kerosene. The kerosene was evaporated, and its vapors were burned in a separate pyrolysis chamber.

The main problem with such devices was the strong soot and harsh bad smell due to incomplete combustion of fuel. To avoid this, the fuel was first decomposed into fractions at high temperatures, and then these fractions were burned separately.

In 1969, English inventor Robert Babbington received a patent for his stove, originally intending it to run on diesel fuel. After the patent expired, the design became available for repetition, as industrial enterprises, and home craftsmen. A homemade waste oil burner of the Babbington design is much more economical and safer than other burner designs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a liquid fuel burner

The Babbington design burner has a number of advantages:

• Simplicity of design, no moving parts.
• Availability for making at home.
• Availability of well-calculated and accurate drawings on the Internet.
• Exceptional cheapness of fuel. Enterprises that own a large fleet of automobile and tractor equipment will be able to significantly save on heating and at the same time on the disposal of used oil.
• High energy efficiency. Other burners during processing consume significantly more fuel per kilowatt of thermal energy.
• Small dimensions allow the burner to be built into existing heating systems without significant modifications.
• High degree fire safety.

In addition to these advantages, the burner also has a number of disadvantages.

• Sensitivity of the fuel path to contamination. The work will definitely have to be filtered.
• Requires power to operate the fuel pump and air compressor.
• Unpleasant odor during work. It is better not to use the burner in premises where people or farm animals are permanently occupied, or it will be necessary to ensure reliable removal of combustion products.

Overall, the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages, and the Babbington burner is becoming increasingly popular.

Often, during seasonal oil changes in cars, problems arise with waste disposal. At the same time, many owners of personal plots would like to have a cheap source of heating for their home needs. A self-made waste oil burner helps solve both problems. Small investment a simple project pays off in many years of fuel savings.

To save money, you can make a burner yourself

Operating principle and types of structures

Since any oil contains flammable substances, they can be burned. People have long been trying to make the most of this for their own benefit, but solving this problem is not so easy, especially if they try to burn used oil, which contains many additional components. There are three types of devices for this purpose:

1. Ejection. Very efficient system. Excellent fuel combustion, heat, there are few harmful emissions, but it is almost impossible to do at home. In addition, not all fuels can be used without pre-treatment.
2. Evaporative. The easiest to assemble from scrap material, but its effectiveness is low, there is a lot of waste and pollution. Additional equipment is required for ignition and smooth operation.
3. Injection. The most acceptable option for making an oil burner with your own hands. Relatively simple design, easy to maintain, unpretentious to fuel. The main disadvantage is the inability to use it in residential premises.

In this video you will learn how the burner works during mining:

Some craftsmen are trying to adapt it for heating by working out blowtorches, but most often such undertakings result in complex alterations and a complete abandonment of the original burner design. Most popular in last years received a Babington oil burner.

Robert Babington patented his invention at the end of the last century using one of Murphy's laws - to do everything the other way around. Robert did not spray the fuel, blowing it out of the nozzle, I just tried to force air through the oil film. It produces an oily aerosol that burns beautifully. It’s not for nothing that they say that everything ingenious is simple.

A novice master can make such a burner if he has a garage or workshop with a bench vice and an electric drill. Having collected the necessary materials and prepared the tools, they make drawings of a waste oil burner or find ready-made ones on the Internet.

DIY making

Having collected everything you need in the garage, you begin the step-by-step assembly of the liquid fuel burner. Even an amateur can do it with his own hands . For the work you will need the following materials:

1. Steel tee DN50 for two-inch pipes.
2. Spherical nozzle head. Use brass door handles, ball nuts or similar parts.
3. The nozzle is a steel tube with threaded ends. Length - 150−200 mm.
4. Copper tube with a diameter of 10 mm for supplying fuel to the injector from the fuel tank.
5. A metal tube with a diameter of at least 10 mm for the air duct.
6. Threaded plugs for connections.
7. Car or motorcycle fuel pump.

Don't forget about the materials we need

Having collected everything necessary details, start assembling . To do this, follow the step-by-step instructions:

1. A small hole of no more than 0.3 mm is made in the hemisphere of the future nozzle.
2. Attach the air duct tube to the hemisphere.
3. Insert the hemisphere inside the tee and screw in the sealed threaded plug.
4. Make a hole in the nozzle to ignite the burner.
5. Screw the nozzle drive to the body.
6. A copper fuel pipe is screwed on top.
7. The other end is inserted into the fuel tank.
8. The tank is equipped with a heating element for heating the fuel to 70°C.
9. The fuel supply tube is wrapped around the nozzle to heat the fuel while the burner is operating.
10. A compressor is connected to pump air into the nozzle during testing.

This is how you make an excellent burner with your own hands according to the drawings. For more reliable and safe operation, the device is equipped with measuring sensors and additional details, which will increase the efficiency of the device.

When using a homemade burner, there are usually increased requirements for compliance with fire safety rules. Important to remember:

1. Do not leave a working nozzle unattended.
2. It is prohibited to install the equipment in a residential area.
3. To heat the heating main boiler, a special room is usually made without flammable coating on the walls, ceiling and floor.
4. To increase operating efficiency, heavily contaminated waste is enriched with clean oil.
5. Reliable ventilation is built in the boiler room to remove gases and smoke after fuel combustion.
6. Carry out regular maintenance and equipment reliability checks.

At correct use a homemade burner will last for many years. The savings from using this type of heating are obvious, because the used oil has already been paid for, and if not for the homemade firebox, it would have to be disposed of.

By making such a simple device, the owner kills two birds with one stone: he saves on fuel and on the disposal of harmful liquid.

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