Making toys from paper originated in Japan many centuries ago, it is known as origami. Later, various crafts for the entertainment of children and adults began to be made from this material in Europe. Today they are still just as popular, especially since learning how to make a toy out of paper is not difficult at all, since master classes and photographs of the process of making them can be found everywhere.
Studying emotions
Do you want to learn how to make a paper toy with your own hands that will help your baby learn the world? Then look at the photo below.
To make it you will need large leaf plywood, cardboard, colored paper, glue stick, scissors and pushpins with solid round heads.
Operating procedure:
- a piece of plywood is painted or covered with colored paper;
- a circle is cut out of cardboard to represent the person’s face;
- details in the form of eyes, semicircles for the mouth, stripes for eyebrows, circles for cheeks, etc. are drawn on colored paper desired color and drawing;
- cut out the parts and glue the eyes;
- the circle-face is glued to the center of the plywood sheet;
- use buttons to secure eyes, eyebrows and mouth;
- glue the cheeks and nose.
That's it, the toy is ready, and now you can study human emotions together with your baby.
"Bear"
Anyone who wants to learn how to make a toy out of paper to place on a desktop can look at a photo of a craft in the form of Winnie the Pooh.
To make it you will need plain white paper, scissors and a printer on which to print the silhouette of this fairy-tale character. In this case, you first need to remove the bear’s face from the image using one of the graphic editors. Followed by:
- Cut out the design along the contour and leave a strip below the legs half the height of the figurine and a length equal to the distance between the cuts multiplied by 4. It will need to be bent back like a stand so that the figurine stands.
- Make cuts on both sides of the bear’s “face” and cut out a paper rectangle of such a width that it fits freely into them.
- Move the strip so that it is 1 cm indented to the left of Winnie the Pooh’s head, and draw eyes, a nose, a mouth, etc. on it.
- Extend the paper tape 2-3 cm and draw a face with a different expression, for example sad.
- Repeat the same procedure again, but now feign surprise.
- Glue the ends of the tape together to make a ring.
- Glue a label with some suitable inscription on the bear's tummy.
How to make a paper toy for a Christmas tree
100-150 years ago Christmas decorations mostly made by hand. And although today there is no shortage of factory-made garlands and balls, hand-made options continue to be in demand. For example, let's look at how to make a paper toy for a Christmas tree.
To work you will need:
- decorative paper or colored, not very thick, coated;
- Super glue;
- polystyrene ball;
- silver thread;
- compass;
- a long pin with a large head.
Operating procedure:
- cut out circles with a diameter of 5 cm in the amount of 20-30 pieces from decorative paper;
- cut out spirals from circles;
- wrap them to make buds;
- open the spirals so that the flowers open a little;
- open the circle located at the bottom and pour glue into the middle or apply silicone from a pistol;
- glue the flowers to the ball very tightly, so that the polystyrene is not visible;
- Using a pin, attach a ribbon to the ball and hang the toy on the Christmas tree.
New Year's surprise
To prepare such a Christmas ball, you will need:
- old glossy magazine;
- scotch;
- scissors;
- glue.
Operating procedure:
- a magazine sheet is folded 4 times;
- draw a circle and after cutting it out you get 4 circles
- each circle is folded in half;
- tuck them so that they form cones;
- secure them with tape;
- glue the cones together and get a ball;
- attach a ribbon to the ball and hang it on the Christmas tree or on the ceiling of the room where the New Year is supposed to be celebrated.
Paper toy with beads
Such New Year's craft It's very easy to make; any child can make it.
First you need to cut out a strip of paper 2-3 cm thick and 6 cm long, make an applique on it in the form of some kind of ethnic ornament and roll it into a ring. At the junction of the ends of the ring, place them on top of each other and make a hole. You need to insert the ends of a ribbon folded in half into the hole and put on 3-4 bright beads. After tying the knot, you need to pull the ribbon out from the side of the loop and hang the craft on the Christmas tree.
How to make a paper kitten toy
Veterinarians say that pets simply need movement. However, today, for example, kittens are much less active than necessary. To make them run and frolic, you need to interest the kids. In particular, if you are interested in how to make a paper toy for your fluffy pet, just fold the sheet like an accordion and tie it in the middle with a string. You need to tie a string to such a “bow” and tease the baby with it, forcing him to jump and catch the “butterfly”.
You can also make a ball from crumpled up sheets of paper or glue a box with a lid in which you need to cut a lot of holes. They should be of such a diameter that a kitten’s paw can fit into them, and you should put some dry food inside the box.
Comic paper toy
Such a craft will require a lot of patience and skill, but the result will please both you and the person to whom you present such a gift.
Before you make a joke toy out of paper, you need to decide what surprises you will use. Their choice should be made taking into account the person for whom the gift is being prepared.
Next, you need to make individual boxes with lids in the form of pieces of cake. Each of them should be decorated with paper flowers and small surprises should be placed inside.
Before “serving”, the pieces need to be placed on a tray so that a whole “cake” is obtained.
Now you know what toys can be made from paper, and you can keep your children busy with useful and exciting activities.
Probably every radio amateur, and not only radio amateurs, has burnt speakers at home. This can happen to anyone. Breakdown of output transistors, overload, or manufacturing defects and much more can lead to failure of the coil inside the speaker. I want to tell you about my case. Dynamic head 25GDN-3-4.
She left us, going into the world of spirits, while listening to hard rock :) She left gracefully. At first she began to wheeze heavily, and then thick and stinking smoke poured out of her. The dust protection cap has melted. After disassembly, it turned out that half the coil had also burned out.
It is not difficult to rewind it, but the work requires patience. I only managed to wind the reel the second time. So, let's start repairing the speaker.
Stage 1 - collection of information. In reference books or on the Internet. You need to find data about the speaker itself, and especially about the coil. It will have to be made from scratch. Dynamic head specifications:
— Effective operating frequency range — 50 — 5000 Hz
— Level of characteristic sensitivity — 84 dB/W*m
— Frequency response unevenness — 14 dB
— Total harmonic distortion — 3 — 6%
— Nominal electrical resistance— 4 Ohm
— Maximum noise (nameplate) power — 25 W
— Limit long-term power — 30 W
— Maximum short-term power — 70 W
— Main resonance frequency — 55 ±10 Hz
— Equivalent volume — 8 Vas Liter
— Total quality factor — 0.5 ±0.5 Qts
— Diffuser diameter — 110 mm
— Magnet dimensions — d110x16 mm
- Are common dimensions— d125x79 mm (my measurements — d125x73 mm)
— Weight — 2000 g
— OST 4.383001-85
And the speaker coil data:
— Wire brand — PETV-1
— Wire diameter — 0.224 mm
— Number of winding layers — 2
— Number of turns in the 1st layer — 47
— Number of turns in the 2nd layer — 46
— Ohmic resistance — 3.1 ±0.4 Ohm
— Voice coil height — 22.5 mm
— Internal diameter — 25.4 mm
— External diameter, including winding — 26.6 mm
There is information. We select the required wire diameter and move on to the second stage.
Stage 2 – disassembling the speaker. We unsolder the multi-core wires going from the coil to the speaker terminals. For disassembly we need a solvent, a brush and plastic bag. Solvent for paints. It said 647 on the can. I bought it at a store that sells auto enamels. We need to use it to dissolve the glue that glues the speaker together. To do this, use a brush dipped in solvent to coat the edges of the speaker. And also at the bottom there is a linen centering washer, also along the edges where it is glued. The dust cap also needs to be peeled off. But I didn’t keep it. After impregnation, put the speaker in a plastic bag and tie it. This is so that the solvent does not evaporate so quickly. We wait about ten minutes. Let's take it out and look. The glue should have dissolved. The diffuser can be removed from above by hand, and the membrane from below must be pryed off with a knife or scalpel. If it lags behind heavily, then we repeat the procedure with the solvent and the bag. All work with solvent and glue must be carried out outdoors. I did it on the balcony. I hope everything worked out.
Stage 3 – winding a new coil. For this we need thin and thick paper. As you can see, the height of the coil is 22.5 mm. I cut a strip 300mm long and 22.5mm high. Picked up the phone required diameter. The diameter can be adjusted by wrapping several turns of electrical tape around it. I measured it with a caliper. I wrapped the paper around the tube, coating each turn with glue or varnish. I used glue brand 505. It dries quickly and then becomes hard. It seems to withstand the temperature. Having removed the learned ring from the tube, we measure how it fits into the speaker core. It should go in and out easily with a small gap. If everything is fine, then we put it on the tube again and start winding the wire. Winding in two layers. The first layer is 47, and the second is 46 turns. Lay the coils one to one. The first turn must be secured with glue or varnish. After winding the first layer, soak it with glue. Next is the second layer, and again with glue. After drying, remove the coil from the tube and measure how it fits into the core. It should go in and out easily. If it rubs somewhere, or doesn’t fit at all, we redo it again.
Stage 4 – assembly. We glue the wound coil to the diffuser. You need to try as smoothly as possible. This time you need to use glue that can be dissolved. Suddenly it will need to be disassembled again. To do this, I bought glue for gluing rubber. We solder the coil wiring to the multi-core wires on the diffuser.
The coil with the speaker core needs to be centered using a piece of photographic film or thin plastic. Let's connect. We smooth the linen membrane with a knife or some flat object. To securely fasten the diffuser to the frame, we screw the speaker to a flat surface with self-tapping screws.
We solder the stranded wire to the speaker terminals and wait several hours.
Stage 5 – speaker tests. Unscrew it from the board. We take out the film from the core. By pressing the diffuser with your fingers, we listen to see if there is any friction in the coil. If it jams, then return to step 2. Check the coil resistance with an ohmmeter. Everything is okay? Then we connect it to the amplifier and listen. A properly assembled speaker will sound like new. If there is a slight friction between the spool paper and the core, it should go away over time. In case of friction of the coil wire with the outer iron washer - definitely stage 2. If the tests went well, then glue the dust cap. In my version, I peeled it off with a solvent from another speaker.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated. I think that it would not be advisable to rewind low-power small speakers. But it depends on your desire. Perhaps something can be simplified or done better. Happy rewinding everyone. The speaker was repaired - Boozer.
Detailed description diagnostics and repair of mid-range and high power. The article was written for those who want to repair speakers and have winding and soldering skills.
I have been repairing speakers for 15 years and want to pass on the acquired skills and techniques to the Datagorians.
Sorry for the lack of detailed photos of the process, all the equipment and work are now a thing of the past. Has your speaker whined or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First - diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.
We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three possible options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.
Now for the second check. Place the speaker on the magnet and carefully move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustling or creaking sound, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.
If there is no grinding, and the winding is broken - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper strands, which break down over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. wire. T.F. suitable section or braided tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the soldering area with Moment glue.
If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, place the speaker on the magnet and use a swab soaked in acetone to soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it by prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. Using the same method, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull out the diffuser vertically upward without distortion.
I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and the centering washer, so as not to disturb the alignment of the speaker.
To rewind you need to assemble a simple device, the structure of which is clear from the figure. The most difficult part is the reel mandrel. To make it you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material – any metal.
We measure inner diameter coils (x). The spool mandrel should have a diameter of x+0.5mm on one edge and x-0.5mm on the other edge.
At the larger end we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
Drilling through hole 6.5 mm for stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.
Now you can start winding. We will need glue on alcohol based, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.
We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding, gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we paste it with a layer of capacitor paper without overlapping layers. We wind the wire turn to turn, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind it not tightly, but tightly.
On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same steps in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amps for drying. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help you easily remove it from the mandrel.
We check the free movement of the coil in the speaker gap and begin assembly.
We need to align the coil exactly in the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a spacer made of photographic film or x-ray film into the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is pulled inward a little.
Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically down without distortion and without radial displacement, and press it. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table, and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.
After the glue has dried, remove the gasket and check the free movement of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!
Thank you for your attention!
The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repair virtually unnecessary, but if difficulties arise in purchasing a new speaker to replace a broken or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to restore the damaged loudspeaker with your own hands. I received several coaxial-type speaker systems with various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below we will present material only on the restoration of “littered” car speakers coaxial type for later use when constructing or installing in multi-way stationary speaker systems. Before starting work we will carry out diagnostics speaker state.
Diagnostics of the speaker condition
1. Check for debris. Coaxial-type speakers are not completely protected from foreign objects getting into the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars with rust or cars that have been used body repair. Checking is simple - carefully with your fingers let's move diffuser into the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly heard: rustling, crackling, grinding, then this means that metal debris may have gotten into the magnetic gap.
2. Take a tester and check the coil resistance in ohmmeter mode. If there is resistance, then this is our case. If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check the thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser for breaks. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.
We disassemble and clean the dynamic head with our own hands
1. Unsolder the flexible coil leads from the contact petals for connecting the speaker and the contact petals of the coaxial speaker.
2. Remove coaxial speakers. Repair speaker system not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly. Column with fortified tweeters removed by drilling out an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.
3. On speaker repair forums, methods for dismantling the diffuser and centering washer are given. I also followed this path. We carry out work on outdoors in the absence of sources open fire! After using 100 ml of acetone, it was impossible to peel off the diffuser and washer. The solvent quickly evaporated without softening the adhesive joint. In order to save time and solvent, a strand of cotton fabric was placed at the gluing site and moistened with acetone; if necessary, wetting continued as it evaporated until the glue softened. After softening, use a thin screwdriver to pry up the edge of the centering washer and lift it above the gluing area. The thin rubber diffuser corrugation must be handled more carefully and delicately so as not to damage the rubber.
4. Remove the diffuser. Damage to the insulation of the speaker coil is noticeable from debris that has gotten inside the magnetic system. It is useful to look at the degree of damage under a magnifying glass for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the diameter of the coil wire); if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. By using wet wipes I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and outside of dirt. Cleaning must be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.
Coil damage
5. The gap in the magnetic system is a sad sight. A strong magnet firmly holds small metal debris and dust. Tried to clean mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow the debris to be successfully removed. I decided to use a strong stream of air from air compressor – Failed to clear the gap! I had to use another remedy - use a stream of water high pressure from car wash. The result is that I’m all wet, but the gap is 100% cleared, and at the same time the entire frame is shining like new. I tried to do this carefully, since the pressure of the water jet is very high and I admit that if you are particularly zealous, you can destroy the adhesive of the magnet of the speaker system. To prevent rust, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it’s a good idea to seal the gap with tape to protect it from accidental metal debris.
Assembling the speaker
1. After cleaning and drying components dynamics we assemble the structure. It's important not to rush. The goal is to position the coil in the magnetic system exactly in the center and ensure there is clearance and does not touch the coil. From a strip of A4 office paper, 10cm wide and about 18cm long, we roll up a cylinder and insert it inside the diffuser coil. The cylinder should fit snugly against the spool and have no protrusions or bulges inside.
2. Let's try to insert such a structure into a magnetic system. Do not hurry! It's better to practice several times. The cylinder should descend to the entire depth of the magnetic gap and at the same time the coil should hardly move along the inserted cylinder. If the coil moves along the cylinder with great effort, then it is necessary to shorten the length of the paper strip, and if the coil moves freely, then it is necessary to increase the length of the paper strip.
How to repair a speaker yourself? FAQ Part 1
This is the first part of the loudspeaker repair manual.
Here you will find information about the terminology used, speaker problems and the simple repair when only replacement of flexible leads is required. Other issues will be discussed in future articles.
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How does the dynamic head work?
The schematic drawing shows a cross-section of the speaker. This is roughly how low-frequency and mid-frequency loudspeaker heads are designed.
- Suspension (corrugated).
- Flexible output (pigtail).
- Bracket (secures the braid to the diffuser).
- Damper (protects the pigtail from breaking near the terminal).
- Hole in the housing for flexible output.
- Insulating strip (holds the terminal).
- Terminal.
- Solders connecting the flexible lead to the terminal and the coil lead.
- Coil output.
- Coil.
- Speaker housing (basket, frame).
- Diffuser (membrane, diaphragm).
- Dust cap (plug).
- Centering washer.
- Sleeve.
- Pole piece.
- Kern.
- Top flange.
- Magnet.
- Bottom flange.
The letters N and S indicate Northern and South poles magnet. This is the usual arrangement of the poles, although the opposite occurs occasionally.
In the next picture conventional drawing HF dynamics sectional view.
- Coil output.
- Insulating gasket.
- Suspension (elastic extension of the dome).
- Diffuser of dome design (membrane, diaphragm).
The main difference between tweeters and midrange and bass drivers is the absence of a centering washer.
In addition, many HF heads use a dome-shaped diffuser, often called a membrane. The dome and surround of such speakers are a single unit, and the sleeve is attached to the dome.
Since the stroke of the tweeter cone is small, the coil leads often play the role of flexible leads.
What are the types of speaker malfunctions?
Speaker malfunctions occur due to improper use, improper assembly, or normal wear and tear.
Incorrect operation.
Most often, damage occurs due to excess power supplied to the speaker. One of the reasons for such errors may be confusion with the method for determining the power of the speaker and amplifier. This is due to the fact that the same numerical values of effective, root-mean-square (RMS), or as it is also called, sinusoidal power and amplitude or musical power create a current in the speaker coil that differs by a factor of two.
Another reason that causes speaker overload is the careless redistribution of power between the heads of multi-way speakers. Most often, tweeters - tweeters - suffer from this. The fact is that the power of tweeters in multi-band systems can be less than 10% of the total speaker power. And if the user, using an equalizer, supplies most of the amplifier's power to the tweeter, then the death of the latter can be instantaneous.
There are also mechanical damage dust cap, suspension and diffuser. Sometimes these damages lead to misalignment, which in turn leads to the destruction of the coil and sleeve.
Destruction of the sleeve and coil can also be caused by displacement of the core. In such cases, the sleeve along with the coil gets jammed in the magnetic gap. This usually occurs as a result of a loudspeaker or speaker being dropped.
Unskilled assembly.
Due to unskilled assembly, the sleeve, coil, suspension or centering washer may come off. Poor quality gluing can also cause extraneous sounds.
Incorrect fastening flexible leads can significantly reduce their service life.
Normal wear and tear.
If the loudspeaker head is assembled well, the suspension and flexible leads suffer the most as a result of normal wear and tear. The diffuser can also collapse if its safety factor does not match the power of the speaker.
How to identify a faulty speaker element without disassembling?
All speaker malfunctions can be divided into “mechanical” and “electrical”. However, some electrical defects are very difficult to distinguish from mechanical defects by ear.
If no external changes, such as destruction of the corrugation or diffuser, are detected, but extraneous sounds appear in the form of crackling or periodic loss of sound occurs, then you should first check the flexible leads.
To do this, connect a dial ohmmeter to the speaker terminals and move the pigtails while the diffuser is stationary. If the ohmmeter needle moves, it means the flexible lead is damaged.
Other electrical defects include coil breakage and short-circuiting of part of the coil turns or the entire coil. These defects can also be detected using an ohmmeter.
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To do this, a master oscillator signal is supplied to the amplifier input.
A partially peeled off coil or part of the turns can be identified by smoothly changing the frequency of the generator or turning on the generator in the GKCh (Swinging Frequency Generator) mode.
When testing this speaker, the frequency range 20Hz...2kHz with a period of 3 seconds was used. In this speaker, apparently, a significant part of the coil has come unstuck, as overtones are heard over a wide frequency range. If a small fragment of the coil peels off from the sleeve, overtones can appear only at a certain frequency, and only when the damaged structural element enters resonance.
In some cases, to identify a malfunction, it is useful to use an infra-low frequency generator. This can help identify, for example, defects in the gluing of the rubber corrugation to the diffuser. The arrow shows the place where the oversound is formed.
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Rubbing the sleeve against the core or the coil against the inner surface of the upper flange can also be detected at a frequency of several hertz if you lightly press the corrugation waves with your fingers.
More serious damage to the speakers is even easier to detect.
So, for example, if something is heard when turning the speaker over, it means that part of the turns or the entire coil has fallen off the sleeve.
If the diffuser moves very poorly, then most likely the coil has fallen off and jammed the sleeve in the magnetic gap.
If the diffuser does not move at all, then the core may have moved and jammed the coil along with the sleeve.
Never attempt to disassemble such a speaker without first removing the sleeve, as this may also damage the cone.
How to replace speaker flex leads?
Use extreme caution when replacing flexible leads on an unassembled speaker, as a steel tool attracted by the magnetic system may damage the cone and dust cap.
If access to the flexible terminals (pigtails) of the speaker is free, then you can try to replace them without disassembling the speaker. But, in some cases, the speaker will still have to be disassembled. The picture shows a broken flexible lead.
Old flexible leads should be removed with the utmost care so as not to damage the diffuser or break the coil leads.
First, unbend the brass bracket that holds the flexible terminal, if there is one, of course.
Then the soldering area is heated with a soldering iron to separate both the flexible lead and the coil lead from the diffuser. Usually, after warming up, the glue softens and the leads can be removed.
How can I replace damaged flexible leads?
Of course, the simplest solution is to borrow flexible leads from another speaker of similar power or order from suppliers that sell spare parts for speakers. But, if this is not possible, or you want to save on spare parts, then you can make surrogate braids yourself.
The first and simpler option is to replace the failed pigtail with a piece of MGTF wire of a suitable cross-section. I don’t know who first came up with this, but it was with these flexible terminals that the once popular 4A32 speakers went on sale.
Another option is to make braids from a Soviet-made flexible telephone cable. It can still be found among all the junk at flea markets.
I am familiar with two types of such cable. In one, each wire consists of seven cores, and in the other of fourteen. Each core is made by winding copper tape onto a Mylar thread. In cross-section, the tape has the shape of a rectangle with dimensions of 0.03 x 0.3 mm.
0,03 * 0,3 * 14 = 0,126 (mm²)
As you can see, the cross-section is small, so for powerful speakers you can twist two or more stranded wires.
First, a section or sections of telephone cable are prepared using a soldering iron.
Insulation is removed in small areas, to avoid damage to the cores.
Then the cores of each stranded wire are untwisted and twisted again into one wire.
And finally, the flexible lead is carefully glued twice with rubber or 88 glue with an interval of 20 minutes.
Before the first gluing, the twist must be free so that the glue penetrates between the cores. Immediately after the first gluing, the strands are twisted to the end. The second gluing finally fixes the cores relative to each other.
Thus, it is possible to make a flexible lead for a speaker of any power.
If there is no telephone or MGTF wire, then as a temporary measure you can use MGShV wire or even a braid from a shielded wire, but such pigtails do not last long, and they put a greater load on the diffuser due to less flexibility.
When installing a flexible output, you need to take into account that the most weak points of this unit are the places where the pigtail is attached to the diffuser and the terminal.
If the fastening brackets are damaged or lost, the braid is secured with two crossed stitches of thread. Then the attachment point is glued with glue with a large dry residue. Weathered BF-2/BF-4 will do.
To prevent premature fracture of the pigtail, the attachment points are covered with several layers of rubber or 88 glue with a transition to a flexible terminal.