Tinting Maslovosk. How to color your home

Oil impregnation is one of the simplest and at the same time effective ways protective and decorative processing wood. Today we will talk about the types of oils, the differences in compositions for interior and exterior use, as well as the impregnation technique. wooden surfaces and wood products.

Oil for wood - differences and classification

Coating joinery with oil can be called without exaggeration the most environmentally friendly and in a safe way wood processing. This is because oils contain either completely natural or inert chemical compounds. Let's make a small reservation right away: there are oils for wood, which include volatile solvents, but after drying, such a coating remains absolutely harmless.

Almost all wood oils are made on the basis of linseed oil, or more precisely - linen or other natural drying oil. characteristic feature of this material is an extremely high tendency to polymerization. Pure wood oil is almost never used. The linseed oil base can also be hemp, tung or other origin, the main differences are expressed in conditions that promote thickening and polymerization.

Oils vary greatly in their technical specifications: viscosity, density, type and content of solids, volatile solvents and special additives. All this not only affects performance coatings, but also completely determines the application technique and the nature of interaction with a particular type of wood. On the other hand, oils are classified according to decorative effect, that is, according to such features as the intensity of the manifestation of the texture and the depth of the change in the color of the wood.

Viscosity difference

V carpentry there are about two dozen popular types of wood, differing in density, porosity and vessel sizes. In each case, the oil must be selected individually, taking into account also the size, shape and specific features processed product. Please note that it is possible to adjust the viscosity with solvents only when working with tung oil, other compositions categorically do not tolerate this.

The thicker and viscous the oil used, the more difficult it is to apply an even layer before polymerization begins. Working with thick oils requires more accuracy; the resulting streaks are subsequently very problematic to remove. The advantages of thick oils are a high drying rate, comparable to some types of varnishes. Also, due to the high content of solid particles, such oils form a stronger film, providing protection from both mechanical damage as well as pollution.

More liquid oils used to process products that either have a significant surface area or are replete with small parts with many hard-to-reach places. Oils with low viscosity can be applied for a sufficiently long time without fear of uneven drying. However, to obtain high-quality protection, the product must dry long enough, moreover, such oils are usually applied in 3 or more layers.

Decorative properties of oils

When choosing an oil, it is of paramount importance visual effect from its application. From this point of view, oils are divided into conditionally colorless and tinting. Why are oils called colorless only conditionally? Because they in any case change the color of the surface of the tree, but at the same time retain transparency. Coloring oils include a colloidal suspension of coloring pigment - from white to soot, which somewhat muffle the contrast of the texture pattern.

Clear oils always show the texture of the wood differently. This is due, first of all, to the viscosity index. The lower it is, the smaller the pores of the wood can be impregnated. Thick oils show only the general pattern of the fibers, rarer - fine texture details. So, for the treatment of oak surfaces, the oil should have a viscosity slightly below average, while saturated thick formulations are recommended for alder.

The use of tinting oils is in many ways similar to staining. Tinting a tree with oil is rarely used as an independent processing technique. Much more often, with the help of such compounds, they emphasize soft veins between the hard fibers of wood or cover individual elements furniture. Coloring oil after drying has a lower gloss than colorless.

It is not known whether such a property of oils as smell can be attributed to decorative qualities. In fact, all oils smell completely different, from hay to roasted seeds. After drying, the smell from the oil treatment turns into a very persistent, but subtle aroma, which can become a valuable part of the interior coloring.

Difference in solids content and wax

Despite the apparent homogeneity, oils for wood are colloid system consisting of liquid oil base and weigh solids. The latter are products of partial oil polymerization, special additives (driers in oils for external use), resins and natural wax. You are absolutely right if you assumed that with the content of solid particles in the oil, its viscosity and density increase.

The high content of partially polymerized inclusions in the oil helps to eliminate the effect of raising the pile when wetting the wood. By using saturated thick oils, it is sometimes possible to completely avoid intermediate grinding or polishing. One interesting trend can be traced in this: thick oils are ideal for large-vessel wood, where high pile formation is possible, while fluid compositions are better used for dense hardwoods, which are practically not prone to "shaggy". On the other hand, the dry residue content regulates the drying time of the oil.

The inclusion of dissolved wax in the composition pursues somewhat different goals. The wax helps seal the pores of the wood tightly, giving it excellent hydrophobicity. This waxing is mainly used in outdoor decoration to protect the wood from getting wet and the accumulation of dust in small pores. Another reason is that the wax is added to the oil by being dissolved in turpentine or some other volatile solvent. This raises the problem of persistent bad smell, what in living rooms highly undesirable. But there are oils in which the wax dissolves when heated. These mixtures are unstable and the wax often precipitates, making the application of the oil more difficult. However, due to the high environmental friendliness of such a composition, it is possible to wax interior details, but not for the purpose of protection, but to give a light shade and glossy sheen.

Protective properties of oils

Unlike most wood preservatives, the oil does not form a dull film, maintaining the vapor permeability of the material. At the same time, the hydrophobicity of the surface increases several times - upon contact with liquid water, the absorption of wood is almost zero. However, the wood product remains subject to shrinkage and swelling, which oil coating does not relieve of these phenomena.

The protective effect of the oil lies in the compaction of the outer layers of the tree, due to which the penetration of insect pests into the array is excluded. Due to the absence of paths for moisture to penetrate, the tree becomes the least susceptible to organic damage by mold, fungus or blue.

The oil also preserves the color of the wood well, this is especially important for exterior finish Houses. The crust of oil that forms on the surface effectively scatters sunlight and restricts the flow of oxygen. Due to this, the rate of cellulose oxidation and the associated appearance of a grayish coating are significantly reduced.

All these properties are more pronounced, the thicker the oil is used for coating and the more layers are applied. Oils are characterized by the division of protection into two barriers: internal, achieved by impregnation of pores, and external, formed when a thin oil film dries on the surface. It should be remembered that wood impregnated with oil has a higher thermal conductivity than dry wood.

Choice according to wood type

Oil for wood is always selected for a specific breed. It is recommended to carry with you a test piece of wood of the same type and quality of processing that are characteristic of wood finish. Trial application even on small areas will help to quickly evaluate the behavior of the composition in contact with the tree, as well as the decorative effect.

Let's start with the fact that everything conifers wood practically does not need impregnation with oil. If absolutely necessary, thick formulations applied in one layer should be used. This is due to the presence in the pores a large number resins, due to which the tree loses its ability to absorb even fluid oils. Therefore, it is required to achieve rapid drying of the oil on the surface and in the surface layer.

Thick saturated oils are also used in the processing of wood with low density (linden, alder), especially fruit species with the most developed vascular system. There are no obstacles to impregnation with thick oil, while overly fluid formulations penetrate too deeply and remain forever in a liquid state, having lost access to oxygen.

A completely opposite approach is used when processing beech, birch or plane tree. Because of high density such wood they are impregnated with either unmelted butter or solvent-containing compounds. Often, when working with hard dense rocks, they are processed in a combined way: first, with oils that penetrate well into the wood, and then with thick compositions with a high proportion of dry residue and wax.

Features of applying and maintaining oil finishes

The process of applying the oil is extremely simple, just follow the instructions for using a certain composition. But there are also general rules:

The wood must pass through before applying the oil. chamber drying(humidity not more than 12-14%) and polishing the surface until the tactile roughness is eliminated.
Application is carried out strictly in layers over the entire surface of the product, each layer must dry completely.
Later set time after application, the excess oil is rubbed with a dry rag, distributing it between areas with uneven absorption.
Oil is applied to all sides of the part in equal amounts, and open-cut surfaces are no exception, despite the increased absorption rate.
If, after the oil has dried, a pile has risen on the surface, it is necessary to carry out preliminary grinding before applying the next layer, otherwise, when rubbing the oil film, the fibers from the rags will also settle on the surface.

Oil impregnation retains performance for 4-5 years indoors and 2-3 years outdoors. After these periods, the coating is renewed, for which it is enough to simply thoroughly clean the surfaces and apply another layer of oil. The density of the oil is chosen depending on the degree of damage to the previous finish, usually these are quite thick restorative compositions.

Natural wood from which most houses and baths are built manual felling or ordinary planed timber, widely used in the construction of houses and baths, has a pleasant light amber color. Many owners of houses and baths made of logs and timber like the natural shade of wood and its colors, so they usually try to keep it unchanged. House made of hand-cut logs, rounded logs in natural colors, natural shades wooden house from a bar are pleasant. Light, sunny, amber, saturated autumn or light spring tones of wood do not reduce the spatial volume of the rooms in the house, evoke positive emotions from a sense of harmony with nature, do not irritate, are harmonious and natural, like everything that is natural and not flashy.
But in certain cases, there may be a need to change the original color of the wood due to some subjective or objective circumstances. The desire to change the color of the wood may arise or may be necessary under the following conditions:

If there are possible flaws on the wood that need to be hidden or made less noticeable,
If desired, give a regular wooden surface or wooden object, made from widespread and inexpensive wood effect wood of VALUABLE species. Those. create a visual effect wooden product made of, for example, pine, spruce or birch, visually indistinguishable solid wood effect of RARE and expensive species, such as oak, beech, ash, cherry, teak or any exotic wood species,
During restoration wooden furniture made from rare and possibly expensive types of wood or to renew the protective layer of special waxes or varnishes that were previously applied to the wooden surface of furniture, block parquet, solid floorboards and had a certain shade, but over time during operation they were worn out, wiped out and needed to be updated, partially or completely painted,
For design solutions when decorating a house where various color shades at the request of the customer.

To make it easier for the owner of a wooden house to solve the above tasks, you can use various options their implementation. But the most correct, in our opinion, the most realistic, inexpensive, economical and environmentally friendly profitable solution it can be the use of pigment and tinting paste introduced into oil or wax, i.e. colored oil for wood, colored wax for wood, as well as colored pigmented in various shades or tinted with various colors of tinting pastes of oil waxes for wood. Oil and wax for wood is the most consistent and closely (related) to the wood structure, is not rejected by the tree, does not peel off, unlike many varnishes, does not peel off, is simply updated if necessary, is easily and quickly pigmented (painted) in almost ANY required shade and color to the consumer, does not fade for a long time, creates a WATERPROOF, but VAPOR PERMEABLE protection of the surface of the log and timber, additionally STRENGTHENS the protection of wood from UV exposure. Assessing the fundamental advantages, advantages and undeniable positive traits colored oil and colored wax, a lot of consumers, deciding how to paint wooden house how to paint a log house, how to paint a beam, how to choose paint for wood, etc. most often make a choice and purchase Colored oil for wood and Colored oil wax.

If you want to get from a wooden surface specific color or to give an ordinary log, beam or floorboard the effect of precious wood, then use for this purpose pigmented wood oil, colored oil, colored wood wax, which contains pigment, i.e. already pigmented in standard colors oils and waxes, or add your own to dry, oil-soluble or fat-soluble, which is supplied separately. The process of obtaining colored oil and colored wax of the desired shade is SIMPLE and convenient. ANY palette can be obtained almost at home by introducing a small amount of highly concentrated color-resistant pigment into a regular wax oil, wood oil or colorless wood wax.
Another way to give the wood the color you want is even easier and cheaper than treating the log, lumber and floorboard with colored oil and wax. You can treat previously untreated wood (the treated wood must have open pores and the ability to absorb moisture!) any wooden surface that you want to paint in a specific color with a conventional water or alcohol base. Water stains are sold in almost ANY hardware store, they are not expensive, they have various colors and easy to apply. But this method has a significant disadvantage in comparison with the application of pigmented oil wax. The fact is that NOT ALL pigments have INCREASED color fastness. The most color-resistant are natural earths, which are most preferred for incorporation into oils and wood waxes. Natural earth pigments and tinting pastes fade less and change color during operation, i.e. when using them, the wooden surface painted and treated with them will LONG retain the color you set without significant changes. Some cheap types of pigments, including artificial ones, for sale from ready-made in the form of stains, they can simply be diluted with water to obtain a colored solution different density and concentration. Poor color fastness, ability to burn out quickly and unevenly, non-compliance with the originally declared or change colors and shade from the primary increase costs when they are frequently updated and reduce their time effective work for the protection of wooden surfaces.

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Details of the advantages and disadvantages different colors and pigmented impregnations, find out on separate pages of our website by clicking on the links at the bottom of this page or by choosing a ready-made answer to your question in the "" or "" section in the header of the site. If you have any difficulties in selecting the necessary impregnations, call the numbers indicated on the website and get a round-the-clock FREE consultation from our specialists.

Learn DETAILS all about finishing protective impregnations, wood oil, wax, floor varnish, paint and glaze on wood:

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Color for wood: preparation of tinted varnish, oil and impregnation

The beauty of wood lies in the fact that it looks great on its own, you just need to show its texture. Kohler can be used to get the desired shade. Sometimes, for example, light wood needs to be slightly darkened, and it is in this situation that color will come in handy.

Wood treated with tinted oil

Understanding the terms

Tinting varnish for wood (as well as stains, impregnations and other products) means the gradual addition of dye until it acquires the desired shade. That is, color is a dye that is gradually added to the solution.

Note!
For each type of wood processing agent, a different type of color scheme should be used.
Otherwise, it may simply not dissolve when stirred, resulting in a suspension that cannot be used for processing.

As for which color scheme to choose, it is recommended to stick to the color map when buying it. It will also not be superfluous to know that the color scheme, which uses organic pigments, is not particularly resistant to light. Therefore, for outdoor work, it is better to use a color scheme that used inorganic pigments.

In the photo - a map of colors for selection desired shade

You can count several hundred shades of color, only common types of tinting wooden stairs include about 50-100 shades. But if suddenly the color palette is not enough, then you can always mix 2 different colors and get your shade.

In this case, it is recommended to first experiment with a small amount of color and try out the resulting tinted varnish or stain on an unnecessary piece of wood. A sign that everything went well can be considered smooth surface after drying, no streaks and uniformity of color.

First you need to try out the tinted varnish or stain on a piece of wood.

How to tint

In a nutshell, the tinting instruction is that the dye is slowly added to the stain, paint, etc., after which it is simply thoroughly mixed. The dye is added gradually and when the liquid reaches the desired shade, you can proceed to wood processing. However, there are a number of nuances, depending on what needs to be prepared - varnish, stain or wood paint.

Preparation of tinted varnish

The main purpose of the treatment is to create a durable film on the surface of the wood, after the varnish has dried, it will protect the wood from moisture penetration into it, and the texture also appears. Tinted varnish for wood differs from the usual one in that after processing, the texture of the wood does not just appear, but it also stains in the appropriate shade.

Sometimes even eminent manufacturers can make mistakes in the color map, so it makes sense to take care of preparing the varnish of the desired shade with your own hands. Dyes are usually sold in the same stores as the wood products themselves. You can even try to negotiate with the operator of the tinting machine and the color can be poured into your container. It's simple perfect option, but it all depends on the mood of the employees.

The desired color can be obtained from the operator of the tinting machine

You can try to perform tinting with the help of improvised means. For example, there are references to the successful experience of adding to acrylic varnish water stain(a kind of color for varnish on wood). The resulting solution is quite pale (even with a high concentration of stain), so it is suitable in cases where strong darkening is not needed.

As for the process of processing a wooden product, it is recommended to adhere to the following sequence:

the surface is carefully polished. just before applying a layer of varnish, you need to wipe the surface to remove dust;

The surface must be perfectly smooth

then the first layer of tinted varnish is applied;

Note!
The entire product is varnished at once, in no case is it recommended to break the surface into sections.
If you prepare the next portion of varnish later, it is unlikely that you will be able to get the same shade, and the difference will be noticeable.

wood tinting is carried out in at least 2 layers. But if the surface is porous enough, and the varnish itself turned out to be not very saturated in color, then the number of layers can be increased to 3-4;
the last layer is recommended to be colorless.

Tinted oils and impregnations

conventional oil paints. They can be mixed at room temperature;
you can also gouache. but in order for the water not to interfere with the process, the mixture will have to be heated, the water will evaporate;

Gouache can be used to tint the oil

in the past, people also used dyes such as ordinary ash. For example, tinting wood oil with ash will achieve a dark gray or even black color, it all depends on the concentration of the dye. Soot, colored clay and other natural materials can also be used;

A dark color can be obtained by mixing soot or ash with oil.

if you buy a dry color and mix it with oil, we get an analogue of the purchased oil paint. Since their price is comparable, it makes no sense to bother with mixing oil and dye, it's easier to just buy paint.

It should be remembered that when working with oil, too much dye concentration gives a more saturated color, but the properties of the oil are lost. That is, it no longer protects the tree from moisture so well, and over time, the coating will need to be updated. So the color for oil on wood should be added with an eye to the balance between the properties of the oil and color saturation.

In the case of impregnations, the color after treatment is usually secondary, but even at this stage it is possible to ensure that the tree acquires a noble appearance. If a part of the structure is being processed that will not be visible, then iron oxide can be added to the solution, just to make it clear which part is processed and which is not.

Iron oxide will give a bright red color to the wood.

Tinting of wood impregnation can be done to imitate red or any other noble wood. Pastes YF, GO, KF and coalescent are used as dyes. By mass, the concentration of these substances in total does not reach 4% of the impregnation mass. But changing the concentration even by a fraction of a percent gives a range of colors from camouflage green to dark chocolate, so it's just unlimited for experiments.

Summarizing

Tinting varnishes, oils and impregnations for wood is a creative process, and therefore very exciting. By adjusting the concentration of the dye in the composition of the liquid or woodworking oil, almost any shade can be achieved. As a result, even a simple pine looks elegant after processing.

This article shows an example of using acrylic lacquer, tinted with ordinary water-based stain.

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In order not to lose the quality characteristics of wood, it is recommended to process it only with natural compounds. Various natural oils for wood processing have been used since the 12th century. Linseed oil ranks first in its characteristics, as it not only protects the wood, but also gives it a soft velvety shade. How to use linseed oil for woodworking, the main stages and subtleties of work in one short article.

Choosing what to process wooden floor or stairs, environmental friendliness and protective properties impregnation. Impregnation of wood with natural linseed oil has a number of advantages:

The old product acquires an aesthetic appearance, as small cracks, scuffs and bumps are masked.
Absorbing into the porous surface, the composition gives it water-repellent properties.
After drying, dust and dirt stick to the surface less.
Emphasizes the natural texture of wood.
The oil has antiseptic properties and protects the surface from fungus, mold and blue stain.
It is deeply absorbed into the wood and will last at least 50 years.
Protects wood from cracking and drying out.
Wood does not stop "breathing".
Hypoallergenic and suitable as decoration in children's rooms and kitchens.

Linen is used to cover any wood products: in the processing of houses, in the decoration of furniture and decorative elements from oak, teak, pine, spruce, fir. Due to its composition, the oil is easily combined with various tinting emulsions. Applied alone as a finish and protection or under further coverage varnish.

Of the minuses, the price stands out, which depends on the manufacturer and the volume of impregnation purchased. The table below shows the most popular manufacturers of linseed oil for finishing work:

Which wood oil to choose depends on the material possibilities. An unrefined product from any manufacturer is suitable for wood processing. Imported linen formulations are more expensive, but have additives in the form beeswax or artificial polymers. They reduce drying time and make work easier. The consumption of each manufacturer is different and depends on the density of the product.

To tint the surface, impregnation with colors is purchased. This can be found in the catalogs of the manufacturer Tikkurila, the price is from 750 rubles / l. Tinted translucent with various natural shades. Using colored oil, you can tone an inexpensive type of wood, such as pine, you can give the appearance of oak or mahogany. Distinguish after processing inexpensive material from a similar premium class at first glance it will be difficult.

Application technology

Usage for each manufacturer is listed on the label. But there are standard ways:

Dive - when wooden element immersed in a hot composition and left to soak for several days. Then it is taken out and dried on a warm surface.
Vacuum impregnation - the product is placed in a special device, where, under the influence of vacuum, the oil penetrates deep into the wood.
Two-layer application - performed with a brush or a piece of foam rubber when decorating the premises.

Let us consider in more detail the two-layer application, which is suitable for processing wooden floors, stairs and walls.

Two-layer application

To complete the finish, you will need tools and materials:

Butter.
Wax.
Wide brush - flute.
Sanding paper of the finest fraction.
Cotton rag.
A piece of pure suede.

Previously, the product is cleaned of the old coating, the surface is polished with sandpaper. Dust is swept away with a soft brush. Prepared wood absorbs oil better, and the protective properties of the coating will be higher.

The oil is brought to a boil twice before work. Thermal preparation will shorten the drying time of the impregnation. You need to cook a linen product in a water bath, in small portions. As soon as the oil boils for the first time, it is removed from the heat and allowed to cool. Then the procedure is repeated. Before application, the hot agent is stirred so that the color is more uniform. Modern wax formulations can not be preheated, but they will take longer to dry. Use hot impregnation with caution, wearing protective gloves.

A brush or sponge is impregnated with linseed oil, which is applied liberally, with blotting movements, to the wood. Movements are performed along the fibers.
Within two hours, the surface of the wood is impregnated.
A second layer of hot impregnation is applied. Surfaces are allowed to dry for 2-3 hours.
A soft rag is taken, with which excess impregnation is removed from the tree.
The surface is polished with wax or varnished.

Beeswax is heated in a water bath and hot rubbed into the wood until the surface acquires an even sheen. But it is not necessary to cover the impregnation with wax, you can apply the old fashioned way polishing - with a thick suede cloth. Suede rub the surface to a shine, in a circular motion. But giving shine to wood is a long and painstaking process. For processing large area may take several weeks.

Using linseed oil to protect wood in your home, the application technology is followed. You will have to work with a heated product, so take care to protect your hands and eyes. By impregnating the wood, the oil will protect it from moisture, the sun, fungi and mold. Small cracks will disappear on the surface, and the pattern will become clearer. To decorate inexpensive oak or mahogany wood, impregnations with tinting effects are used, which can be purchased at any specialized store. For simple processing, the most inexpensive unrefined oil will do. From above, it is advisable to wipe the surface with wax or polish it with a suede cloth until it shines.

Oil impregnation is one of the simplest and at the same time effective ways of protective and decorative wood treatment. Today we will talk about the types of oils, the differences in compositions for interior and exterior work, as well as the technique for impregnating wooden surfaces and wood products.

Oil for wood - differences and classification

Coating joinery with oil can be called without exaggeration the most environmentally friendly and safe way to process wood. This is because oils contain either completely natural or inert chemical compounds. Let's make a small reservation right away: there are oils for wood, which include volatile solvents, but after drying, such a coating remains absolutely harmless.

Almost all oils for wood are made on the basis of linseed oil, or more precisely, linseed or other natural drying oil. A characteristic feature of this material is an extremely high tendency to polymerization. Pure wood oil is almost never used. The linseed oil base can also be hemp, tung or other origin, the main differences are expressed in conditions that promote thickening and polymerization.

Oils differ greatly in their technical characteristics: viscosity, density, type and content of solids, volatile solvents and special additives. All this not only affects the performance of the coating, but also completely determines the application technique and the nature of interaction with a particular type of wood. On the other hand, oils are also classified according to their decorative effect, that is, according to such features as the intensity of the appearance of the texture and the depth of the change in the color of the wood.

Viscosity difference

In carpentry, there are about two dozen popular types of wood, differing in density, porosity and vessel sizes. In each case, the oil must be selected individually, taking into account also the size, shape and specific features of the processed product. Please note that it is possible to adjust the viscosity with solvents only when working with tung oil, other compositions categorically do not tolerate this.

Thinner oils are used to process products that either have a significant surface area or are replete with small parts with many hard-to-reach places. Oils with low viscosity can be applied for a sufficiently long time without fear of uneven drying. However, to obtain high-quality protection, the product must dry long enough, moreover, such oils are usually applied in 3 or more layers.

Decorative properties of oils

When choosing an oil, the visual effect of its application is of paramount importance. From this point of view, oils are divided into conditionally colorless and tinting. Why are oils called colorless only conditionally? Because they in any case change the color of the surface of the tree, but at the same time retain transparency. Coloring oils include a colloidal suspension of coloring pigment - from white to soot, which somewhat muffle the contrast of the texture pattern.

The use of tinting oils is in many ways similar to staining. Tinting a tree with oil is rarely used as an independent processing technique. Much more often, with the help of such compositions, soft veins between the hard fibers of wood are emphasized or individual elements of furniture are covered. Coloring oil after drying has a lower gloss than colorless.

Difference in solids content and wax

Despite the apparent homogeneity, wood oils are a colloidal system consisting of a liquid oil base and a suspension of solids. The latter are products of partial oil polymerization, special additives (driers in oils for external use), resins and natural wax. You are absolutely right if you assumed that with the content of solid particles in the oil, its viscosity and density increase.

The inclusion of dissolved wax in the composition pursues somewhat different goals. The wax helps seal the pores of the wood tightly, giving it excellent hydrophobicity. Such waxing is used mainly in exterior finishes to protect the wood from getting wet and dust from accumulating in fine pores. Another reason is that the wax is added to the oil by being dissolved in turpentine or some other volatile solvent. Hence the problem of a persistent unpleasant odor arises, which is highly undesirable in living rooms. But there are oils in which the wax dissolves when heated. These mixtures are unstable and the wax often precipitates, making the application of the oil more difficult. However, due to the high environmental friendliness of such a composition, it is possible to wax interior details, but not for the purpose of protection, but to give a light shade and glossy sheen.

Protective properties of oils

The oil also preserves the color of the wood well, which is especially important for the exterior of the house. The crust of oil that forms on the surface effectively scatters sunlight and restricts the flow of oxygen. Due to this, the rate of cellulose oxidation and the associated appearance of a grayish coating are significantly reduced.

Choice according to wood type

Oil for wood is always selected for a specific breed. It is recommended that you carry a test piece of wood of the same type and finish as the wood finishes. Trial application even on small areas will help to quickly evaluate the behavior of the composition in contact with the tree, as well as the decorative effect.

You should start with the fact that all coniferous wood species practically do not need oil impregnation. If absolutely necessary, thick formulations applied in one layer should be used. This is due to the presence of a large amount of resins in the pores, due to which the tree loses its ability to absorb even fluid oils. Therefore, it is required to achieve rapid drying of the oil on the surface and in the surface layer.

A completely opposite approach is used when processing beech, birch or plane tree. Due to the high density of such wood, they are impregnated with either unmelted butter or solvent-containing compounds. Often, when working with hard dense rocks, they are processed in a combined way: first, with oils that penetrate well into the wood, and then with thick compositions with a high proportion of dry residue and wax.

Features of applying and maintaining oil finishes

The process of applying the oil is extremely simple, just follow the instructions for using a certain composition. But there are also general rules:

Before applying oil, wood must undergo chamber drying (moisture content no more than 12-14%) and surface grinding until tactile roughness is eliminated.
Application is carried out strictly in layers over the entire surface of the product, each layer must dry completely.
After a set period after application, the excess oil is rubbed with a dry rag, distributing it between areas with uneven absorption.
Oil is applied to all sides of the part in equal amounts, and open-cut surfaces are no exception, despite the increased absorption rate.
If, after the oil has dried, a pile has risen on the surface, it is necessary to carry out preliminary grinding before applying the next layer, otherwise, when rubbing the oil film, the fibers from the rags will also settle on the surface.